How I DIY some of the best li-ion packs for long range FPV

[@Chillin-fpv]

That was the best diy instructions for making a lion battery pack ive seen. Ive watched a few of em but this is by far the easiest to understand. Im stoked to make my own batteries for a fraction of the price. Thank you

[@FalconRadFPV]

Glad it was helpful!

[@DFEUERMAN]

You're the best! One safety/procedural recommendation: solder the xt60 connector before attaching to your pack, or don't close the circuit on the pack until last (to reduce risk of shorts)

[@danzillatheterrible]

Thanks for this! Demystifies the process... much less scary than I thought!

[@BlisterEye]

Thanks for sharing this. Great to hear that you can in fact solder the cells together and you don't need a spot welder; gives me more confidence to build my own long range 6S pack at about half RRP! I got a 1800 mAh li-po which lets me fly over 10 minutes and I get around that 9-10 minute time out a 1400 mAh li-po; I can only imagine what the fly time will be with the 2800 mAh li-ions!

[@FalconRadFPV]

You should give it a try! Just double check your amp draw is appropriate for the cells you get. I usually prefer my cruising at 60kph amp draw to be less than half of the cells amp rating (without temp cut).

[@spartan3299]

This is my favorite battery procedure. I only stray in 3 ways. I use the white electrical tape, leaves no residue. I use contact cement rather than hot? glue. and I use a big Bertha Weller iron to shorten the heating moments.Thank you for sharing!

[@25milliwatts]

this is a great informative explanation. as always presented as calmly as bob Ross could :-)

[@radioface7853]

Love your content. For Black Vinyl Tabe check out 3M Scotch Super 88. Flexible in -20C, waterproof, super sticky. Its expensive but because its so good you dont have to put gobs of it on saving weight.

[@castaneafpv]

I have some 4500 mah 40A 21700 cells, is 14AWG enough for a 10" drone? Planing on making a 6s2p. Can i use 14AWG for "jumpers" and the XT60 lead or am I better off with 12AWG all around? Great vid btw.

[@FalconRadFPV]

14g wire should be able to handle what any li-ion battery can put out. One of the big deciders on wire gauge is the length. If you want a 10" lead on your battery maybe use 12g for that but otherwise 14g should be fine. 14g should be able to handle maybe 1600 watt constantly. So converting to 25v you can safely sustain about 65 amps from the battery with 14g wire. If you plan on flying with the amp draw consistently higher than that then go up to 12g for everything. (14g will be fine for throttle punch's etc.. well over 100 amps for short bursts)

[@castaneafpv]

@@FalconRadFPV Thank you so much! Will build it now! Great answer and a nice explanation!

[@djhex]

I always wondered. Now I know. Thanks to you :) Gracias amigo!

[@Lift33d]

What brand battery would you suggest .. I have a bunch of 18650 BFN 2000mah. what type would you suggest i buy to make some more. as ive done a few packs in the past

[@FalconRadFPV]

I would recommend the same cells I recommended in the video. That's what the intro was all about.

[@Simofly]

Great video and method, I hate the balance cable part it’s the hardest for me! I found lately an acid to help soldering that seems really good, still have some doubts on it in the long run, I mean does this acids degrade the soldering in time ?

[@hillbillyfpv1]

I've watched this vid a few times for reference and realized I hadn't commented yet. Thanks for all the detail you put into it. One question, is there a reason that you don't make these 6s2p packs as 1 pack? I noticed all your packs are 1p. I know you parallel them together for a 2p, just curious. Heads up, the P28A are on sale right now at 18650 battery store.

[@VodooFeed]

@hillbillyfpv9623 you are correct. Two 6s1p batteries used together in parallel is not the same (electrically) as one 6s2p battery.

[@xtalviper]

3:25 You mention 14 gauge wire, are you sure it's not 12? They look thicker like 12 AWG in the video. Great video BTW.

[@FalconRadFPV]

I use 14g wire for everything when making 6s li-ion packs. Same for both 18650 and 21700 cells. 12g is overkill for the current levels we run li-ion packs at. As for the wires inside, store bought packs use nickel strip which is thinner than 14g and worse at conducting electricity. 14g is all you need.

[@xtalviper]

@@FalconRadFPV Okay, awesome, thank you!

[@AZ_LoneWolf81]

found your channel recently lots of great info super helpful! im looking to get into LR i built some molicel p42a 6s packs i wanna try em out when it isnt so hot here in az. hey is truerc the way to go for antennas all around? im using crossfire / dji goggles 2. thanks love the content

[@FalconRadFPV]

ya in my opinion they make some of the best antennas, and antennas make all the difference for long range fpv.

[@dieselphiend]

Kweld, and Malectrics have very affordable spot welders.

[@Cephas2904]

One of the best videos I’ve ever watched. But here’s a noob doubt, been making quads for a while but new to the batteries - you made a 6s2p now? If yes, how do I calculate the total mah?

[@FalconRadFPV]

I use two 6s batteries in parallel, so basically the same as a 6s2p pack. The total mah is double that of 6s1p.

[@Cephas2904]

@@FalconRadFPV I didn’t get it though. Wouldn’t I need 12 cells for a 6s2p but here only 6 are being used? Sorry, noob doubt.

[@Cephas2904]

@@FalconRadFPV Could you do a short video on how you’d do a parallel connection of these two batteries please? For the 6s2p I mean

[@qck57594]

Great work, how many watts is you Haako soldering station? I have one that about 65w but cant do batteries?

[@FalconRadFPV]

mine is rated for 70w. The key to soldering for batteries and some ESC's is to use a large chisel tip for the soldering iron. It will help to hold more heat in the tip. Functionally it's sorta like turning up the temp in a way, the tip stays hot better and losses heat more slowly.

[@squirrelynutz1]

Flacon I need your guidance. I was flying 20km away on my wing. Using crossfire. Rx and tx have immortal Ts. I was stuck at 2 watt with both antennas vertical but once I move the tx from vertical to almost horizontal(nulls pointed to my chest and out in front of me. Tx power dropped to 250. This has me confused. I thought both antennas are best placed parallel to each other. Vertically. I wasn't very high. Around 150m 20k away since I was on a 10m hill flying over flat land. I'm so confused

[@FalconRadFPV]

sorry missed this one. Interesting, I noticed something similar just the other day at close range. Not sure why it would be though. Might be worth some testing....

[@wojm3383]

Thanks for sharing info great job.

[@FalconRadFPV]

Glad it was helpful!

[@FrancoFlights]

is it worth considering not taping and putting foam on the top and bottom to allow for airflow to actively cool that batteries when flying?

[@FalconRadFPV]

They don't get very hot during normal long range flights so I don't think it's necessary. As well it would be best to keep moisture out as much as possible.

[@shotbyarian]

the reflective tape is so that you can find your quad easier in case of a crash?

[@FalconRadFPV]

Yes, a bit of reflective tap[e can make all the difference.

[@ajuwinfly8272]

Hello can used leptop battry ,ICR18650-28A battry s.?

[@rodic-y]

Just for understanding why aren't you use Spot welder? It's should be easier not? There is any reason not to do it? Thank you for the great post!

[@ZzPROGzZ]

This is his explaination, around 2:30 of that video kzbin.info/www/bejne/eX3ciJtviMhqeZIsi=MZHFTbCC0DkSByTY

[@FalconRadFPV]

I don't like using just a thin nickel strip for the connections. I think 14g wire is better, just my opinion.

[@hairyhider7478]

What current do you charge your LI ION packs at.... Thanks

[@FalconRadFPV]

I always check the manufactures specs. Most Li-ion packs should be charged at about 2 to 2.5 amps.

[@CW7_]

Did you ever try taking one of those onto a plane? I'm traveling to Iceland this year and I'm concerned they won't let me take a DIY battery so I'm wondering if I should just bite the bullet and buy an expensive Li-Ion battery of the shelf.

[@lalilaloe]

I traveled to India with 2 of them among side a bag of lipos. Just make sure they are under 100Wh, look allright and read the airline rules. Security will stop you and ask about it, this will require some extra waiting time. It helps if you can show the drone they are used for.

[@FalconRadFPV]

Sounds like the other guy that answered probably knows more about this than me. I think the Wh size is the main thing they look at. Maybe it would help if you printed a label on your computer for the batteries that said the cell brand/ capacity etc... as well as the total Wh capacity of the battery pack. And stick them on the packs. Just an idea...

[@undergroundrhymer3465]

What about “ C “ rating ? I mean if I want to make 100c then what should I do? Because I made one But after hovering for a while the drone falls to the ground.

[@FalconRadFPV]

a 100C rated li-ion pack is not possible. We're probably 5 to 10 years away from cells of that performance. For a 100c battery you would want to use a lipo type battery. Li-ion batteries only suit low amp draw drones. You need to setup the OSD to show amp draw mAh used etc... Then you must fly and record or memorize the amp draw for flying at say 60hph and then also note what it is for flying at 100+ kph. Now for the best results, you need to find a li-ion battery that is rated to provide double the 60kph amp draw as it constant rating. If you drone uses 15 amps to fly 60kph then you want a li-ion cell rated for 30 amps constant. And it's best if the 100kph amp draw is equal or less than the amps constant rating of the cell. Note: that you can use 6s2p and this will double the ratings for the battery. This is why my recommended li-ion battery is 6s2p with 18650 cells, it's still a reasonable weight but it can sustain up to 80 amps in case you need to fight some serious wind up a mountain. At a 60kph cruising amp draw of 20 amps or less, the batteries are barely warm after a long range flight.

[@VodooFeed]

When the cells are rated at 2800 mAh and can deliver a current of 40A then they are 14.3C cells. A battery built from those cells will always be a 14C battery. When you dream of a 100C cell that means you would like to draw 280 Amps instead of just 40A. That's impossible. But you can cheat a bit and ramp up the maximum current to what you need by having more cells in parallel, increasing total capacity at the same time. This means you would need to combine 42 cells to a 6s7p battery to get 280A max current. But the battery is still 14C. Not very practical for most drone applications to have a battery weighing 2.2kg.

[@atsuedwin]

What would be the charge current to use while charging with a balance charger?

[@gregdavidd]

You need to find out what the manufacturers recommendations are.. With Lipos you can safely charge at 1c whereas with Liion you should check the manufacture's data sheet. If I am in no rush i just charge at 1a whereas when in a rush I go up to manufacturers recommendation.

[@Ghosthj-ox1mm]

new viewer . i wanna ask how far can 2.5mw vtx go ?

[@FalconRadFPV]

with really good antennas, at least 20km with 5.8ghz at 2.5w

[@lemonk6591]

what gauge were the jumper wire?

[@mirioknives]

14

[@mark6302]

cool stuff :0

[@MrHeretic666]

My 18650 somehow loose positive pole contact when I soldered it. Seems like positive pad was disconnected from the battery under it. And no, I didn't overheat it. I soldered it even faster than it was in this video

[@FalconRadFPV]

I have never encountered that before. Was it a good quality name brand cell? I've never seen any issue with any of the about 80 to 100 molicel brand cells I've used.

[@MrHeretic666]

It was green Panasonic I think.

[@bot-sk8mt]

With 18650 6s2p batteries woukd you rather use a 7", 7.5" or 8" quad

[@NeariX846]

i am running 6S2P VTC6 on my 7 inch, great flight times and motors dont struggle

[@FalconRadFPV]

I use it for both 7" and 7.5" builds, even on my 1500kv 7.5" build, it flies great with them. 8" you might need to go a little easy on the throttle so you don't get the batteries too hot.

[@k4x4map46]

nice! thanks!1

[@TNT_FPV]

nice 👍👍

[@FalconRadFPV]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@nelo4047]

For some reason, I can't tin the negative. Positive - no problem. Negative - tin instantly cools and turns into cloudy silvery barf

[@gregdavidd]

You need a big tip with a powerful iron. Positive side is raised up a little and doesnt suck the heat as fast.

[@FalconRadFPV]

@gregdavidd is exactly right. You need a hotter and/or more powerful soldering iron. You'll have the same issue on big 55 or 60amp esc's as well.

[@nelo4047]

Yeah, I guess 60watt won't cut it. Thanks mates!

[@leoetcheverry9685]

more or less good ! as good as what I am able to make not bad but not good, no mesuring of internal resistance, no testing of the mAh one year after use, no spot welds...

[@FalconRadFPV]

1. If you use good quality cells you don't need to measure the internal resistance because it's almost identical in every cell from the same batch. I have packs 3 years old that have flown thousands of kms and the cells still match VERY closely. I can run a pack down to 2.8v and the cells still match within 0.06 volts. 2. I have just recently finished testing the mAh capacity of every li-ion pack I own. It would be pointless to include in the video since these are different cells that I'm using. This is the first pack I've made using these cells so a one year of use test would not be possible as part of the same video in which they were made (should I have waited a year to post the video, lol) 3. Spot welds are not as great as you think they are. Nickel strip is really bad at conducting current, I make my own packs so that I can avoid having nickel strip in them. A nickel strip is rated for about 1/5th the current of 14g wire!