FAQ - How Do I Wire a Pull Station to a Horn/Strobe Without a Panel? |

[@fireandalarm1234]

This is great! Honestly, this would've been super helpful back then for me when I had the very first system up from my earliest videos lol (I ended up following a diagram that Destin, thesdx, posted on The Fire Panels forum back in the day). This however was the exact thing I did with that first system I ever made (no panel, no coding options, just batteries). It got way more "tedious" though when it came down to having 3 notification alarm devices, and 3 pull stations lmao (and also 1 smoke detector added to it a bit later on, which functioned exactly like a pull station would) Great video

[@mylestech7301]

You put the MS 9200 back in the intro!!! Good memories

[@TheFirePanel]

The MS-9200 is working again and actually back in the system too!

[@mylestech7301]

Fire Alarm Tech no way!!!!!!! How'd you get it working? Are you taking down the 4010 and the annunciator and putting the 9200 and ann80 back up?

[@firealarmveteran15]

2:36 - What I would do is just use an alarm that can tolerate FWR and has an audible difference between filtered and FWR. I used my Wheelock MT horn (set on Code-3 Tone) for this purpose. A Mean Well power supply might be your best bet in terms of power supplies -- at least for me anyway, since mine puts out filtered DC. However, they don't come with an AC cord, so you'll have get them separately from the power supply. Fortunately I didn't have to get an AC cord since I just used the cord that came from my first power supply (which died in 2014, RIP), and made some modifications to make it work with the new one.

[@stackza8740]

I once accidentally made a short circuit with a lead acid battery. It didn't explode but it made sparks. Luckily I disconnected it after a couple seconds before it got worse.

[@FireAlarm33]

How to wire a smart sync true alert without a panel? Nice video!

[@TheFirePanel]

I used to have a SmartSync Module, but I no longer do. The process is pretty much the same, however it requires a 4905-9938 module to be in place. The 4905-9938 would need to be wired in between the pull station, and the horn strobe. You would bring the positive and negative to the IN on the module, and then out to the Horn/Strobe. So, it'd look kind of like this: + --- PULL -- Module-----HS - ----------------Module-----HS Hope that helps, kind of the best diagram I could draw in a KZbin comment.

[@FireAlarm33]

Fire Alarm Tech I’m looking at buying a system sensor d2 duct detector for my system with out a panel? Is that model conventional?

[@boydalexander4652]

The Simplex true-alert is always connected to a Simplex T bar.

[@FrontierGD]

Except when I was at an outlets and saw a Truealert paired with a BG-12

[@jasonshelley8070]

Can you sum up a few questions of mine? 1. So you only can do continuous with this method or can you do Code 3 also? 2. I got a TrueAlert on eBay a few months back and it only has two terminal holes in it, not 4. I tried it with this wiring method and nothing happened when it was activated. Any suggestions on what I did wrong or thing I need to get?

[@TheFirePanel]

1. Yes, unless the alarm is capable of self-coding (some have a switch to select) 2. It sounds like you may have gotten a SmartSync TrueAlert, which requires a special module (4905-9938) to operate. There is a tool on our website that helps you determine which Simplex devices will work, and which won’t with details of each type. Type in your model number on there and it’ll tell you what you need. Ideally for collector use, your benefit from something that is “Free-Run” or “Selectable” anything else requires additional parts (as of now this only applies to Simplex horn/strobes, no other brand has this) www.thefirepanel.com/wiki/ndevices/simplexmnc/

[@evanbart4109]

Great video 😀👍👍

[@iceshushie7397]

Can I do the same with chime strobe

[@dustinkey8116]

have you ever fried a fire alarm

[@RaccoonAlarmsVosgra]

Nice

[@alexandersalarms5380]

The other 20 videos of this: Am I a joke to you?

[@Alwaysdoinit112]

What type of wiring?

[@TheFirePanel]

On a real system, it would be FPL which is red wire designed for fire alarm specifically. FPL is basic wire, FPLR is for use in risers, FPLP is for use in plenum spaces. For hobby systems though, speaker wire works well, so does security wire. I personally try not to go thinner than 18 gauge wire, but I’ve seen 20 or 22 gauge work just fine too.

[@popsmarket6825]

Why do fire alarm quote as much as 27,500 to do an install with say two pull stations.. three max.. 4 strobes.. one panel.. it does not add up.. feel like it's a hug rip off... by them.. i cannot see this being more than 4 hr job

[@TheFirePanel]

I'm not a salesman, so I cannot say.

[@FireTech7]

For starters I would just use 3 nine volt batteries Some people don't have these

[@TheFirePanel]

Right, any way to get roughly 24 VDC is fine. This was just an example.

[@vichoostech5303]

Mcp 278