MULITI-Weight vs STRAIGHT-weight for your classic VW ENGINE

[@kenmoyer9704]

Love the oil discussions.

[@williamoorejr]

I got a pile of oil coolers from a vehicle purchase . One of them was expanded to the point where no air could get thru the tubes. So one more consequence of astronomical oil pressure. Another concern was the different ways the pressure relief valve works. Some cases were better than others for excessive oilo pressure. love the channel!!

[@jonathanburnham627]

Been running Shell Rotella T5 15w-40 for years

[@Mikefngarage]

probably a good option I just hate the gallons. I Like the quarts. Gallons are really hard to fill up busses with. .

[@1969nickie]

Non detergent 30 for engine break in to seat everything real nice. Then dump your oil and filter for the oil of your choice. Oil tech has advanced to provide really good protection for all our engine hard parts these days. Nice video Mike.

[@Mariop-c1f]

Very useful thank you

[@CTmoog]

Great video Mike! 😎😎😎

[@youtoobe169]

SAE 30 was what I always used back in the day in my 40 horse. Usually Pennzoil. I actually still have a picture my mom took of me and my dad when I was getting ready to top up the oil. Good memories.

[@jeffsousa399]

Hey Mike, just wanted to share a tip for the Community, on your Video about Octane fuels, and how they effect the engines, just wanted to say that I recently added some VP Madditive Octane booster bought at Wal-Mart, for $21.67 for TWO cans, to treat 4 full tank fulls of Gas, and I have to say, Wow! 5+ points legit Octane and rating, my HP 1600 DP loved it, sounded great, and MOST importantly, it ran Stronger, and NOTICEABLY cooler!.. only $5 to treat a full tank, and I’m running this Booster from now on. Especially if the car sits for a bit, before use!.. Keep up the great work! ☮️

[@williampolk8009]

Great info Jeff

[@Mikefngarage]

High octane fuels are great for air cooled engines. I always run Premium fuel. The additional heat from the air cooled, even though they are low compression, creates a higher combustion pressure. air cooled engines run from 250 to sometimes over 300 head temp or more. So high octane is key. Regular water pumpers are like 170 to 190....they really need high octane.

[@nealefrazer4247]

Hi from down Under ..been watching Mike FN Garage for a while ..very cluey gent ...I run an Aussie made oil Penrite 15w40 full zinc I combine with LiquiMoly MOS2 additive ...exceptional in regards to no wear...I pulled the engine to junk the 2 piece push rod tubes...It would easily run the orig brgs and big ends and the cam but I will renew 40k mile ..perfect internals ...cheers Mike

[@LakesideAutobody]

Good info Mike - lots of different views on that topic for sure 💯👍😊

[@AnzaValley]

I always used Revmaster 38mm oil pumps, Type1 engine going into a Type 2, that said I also slotted my rods on both side as per factory bulletin for Type 2 with type 4 engine, this mod cools the cylinders walls down by spraying oil on the underside of the pistons. I also ran a CB oil cooler base that bypassed the oil after it went thru the stock oil cooler. that oil was run to a Mazda RX7 oil cooler mounted ahead of the transaxle between the frame rails. Never over heated an engine even during the summer driving thru the Mojave desert. Ran Valvoline 30wt winter 40wt summer.

[@MarkJones-qn1eg]

Where on the rods did you slot them?

[@AnzaValley]

Using a triangle file the groove goes at the 12 o'clock of the big end of the rod. so the oil will squirt up on to the piston. file it about 1.5mm deep on both sides.

[@charleslawrence7194]

Thanks Mike. Lots of good information. I use multi weight Castrol with zinc but it's getting hard to find.

[@wimnijs9029]

i have my bug for 7 years and i use always castrol classic or firezone 20w50

[@todddanielson1842]

I have tried to stick with 20w-50 Castrol motor oil, conventional type. Great topic and thank you.

[@martinharris5017]

I run a zinc-rich oil designed especially for classic cars. Penrite brand multi weight. Penrite Extra Ten 10W 60.

[@Mikefngarage]

Oh that sounds great.

[@kyridgejumper]

I found Lucus 30 Plus. It’s designed for hot running air cooled engines. It’s not synthetic and seems to have great tackiness I run this Lucus in my 64 with a 40 horse. In Kentucky usually in nicer weather because of the salt

[@JackCrack-p3s]

Thanks Mike! I'll have to go back thru all your vids (if I can) and take notes. Like the rod notching mentioned in comments. I just purchased a 72 (i think) but superbeetle with struts. Still has screen. Runs good and he says he always uses Amsoil. You got thoughts on any of that? Probably be a few weeks before I can really get into it. At least it has (pretty much zero) not much rust. Dual port with a single carb. Not saying its old, but was made when I was probably 8th grade. lol. Let the adventure begin.

[@jimmywilkinson9190]

Hey Mike ! I remember in 68 that down here in Texas the dealer would tell you to use a HD 21 pump on our 40 hp . Back in Sept. using Castrol Classic 20-50 my oil pressure on a day that was 96 degrees it dropped down to 40 lbs and I was scared ? Sunday it was 80 degrees and on the same trip all the way across the city when I got home it was 55 lbs at idle , I have not change oil yet same oil . When the motor was new it never would drop below 60 at idle . 30mm schadek new autolinea case empi 4140 cw crank and new engle w100 cam double thrust bearings . all silveline bearings .

[@ineverhadthemoney7857]

Wolf Heads 30 w

[@JohnnyRebel1776]

👍🏻

[@carsman248]

I use Castrol 20w50 for classic cars has high zinc. Is this oil good for high heat? I know it’s meant for flat tappets. I also have stock oil pump for 36hp. Don’t seem to get flashing oil light at idle

[@Mikefngarage]

good oil for heat yes. Castrol is really good. Probably can use 20/50 in just about anything. some guys use the straight weight. Just watch the engine RPM on the stock oil pump. Dont drive it really fast. In a beetle that is about 70mph at the limit with stock split case gears. . Bus it is 55.

[@hobthebob7073]

I've been using straight 40w VR1 in my 1600dp for the past few years. What's wrong with VR1 again?

[@thestove2407]

Vr1 .. it's pure shit

[@hobthebob7073]

@@thestove2407 But I've read articles that did very thorough tests of all the oils, and VR1 was listed as an overall good oil, not the best but far from the worst.

[@Mikefngarage]

It breaks down really easy. has too high detergent in it. looses its viscosity very quickly. we learned this in the 80s. never went back. Try Kendall. or Castrol check it when you change it. Castrol or Kendall when you change them they come out the same as they go in. Nice and thick just dirty. The VR1 comes out like water and goes in thick. In other words it breaks down under heat.

[@JohnnyRebel1776]

@@hobthebob7073-When my engine was first built back in 2016 i started off running Lucas 20w50 because they sold it at my local VW shop and it had "high zinc" content. At some point i switched to the VR1 20w50 because i could get it at any parts store and it also claimed to be high in zinc. Basically what i'm saying is i like to run 20w50 with high zinc. The guy that built the engine told me to use a zinc additive with any oil i wanted. Anyway i've recently switched to Castrol Classic 20w50 with high zinc. At about 70k now and still running strong. Not bad for a daily driver with a 1955cc engine. Hoping to go 100k before it has to be torn down again.

[@hobthebob7073]

@ Thanks, I'll give it a shot next oil change!