Anycubic Wash & Cure Max Review - One Big Cleaner, One Big Issue

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00:00 - Intro

[@UncleJessy]

oh man. I was wondering how this would work with hollowed models. Another fantastic video man!

[@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel]

I applaud your videos as well.

[@jccraftmage2313]

Yeah my biggest concern is the pumping mechanism, the pipes and the holding chambers. As you all know, when you don't run a 3D print for a while, all the resin sits at the bottom. So what happens when the next time you rinse a print and the spray system just shoots globs of old resin through pipes at your minis and then begins to rinsing process as it should? If anything, I would argue that this would require you to use more isopropyl alcohol or cleaning agent because you would have to make sure you're really on top of keeping your cleaner clean

[@tenchuu007]

If you put it on its side and take off the supports first it's fine.

[@jasoncombs3232]

I quit using wash and cure machines a long time ago. I now use a 5 gallon bucket. I dip the build plate in while the parts are still attached and twist it back and forth like a washing machine. Work's great. I have one bucket with dirty ipa. And another with clean ipa.

[@stephanewanner3358]

thanks ! I will use your tip ! For the cure part, wich lamp do you use ? DIY or just the sun ?

[@printitpaintit.2436]

Ok first off you can fill both containers with IPA that's what I have done and it works much better! Second once it's finished spraying out the IPA it spins much faster and it sounds like a washing machine and DEFINITELY cleans inside the model I just finished washing a life sized gremlin torso and it's PERFECTLY clean inside! And finally you do NOT have to let it cure automatically there is a cancel button called RESET, if you press the reset button 10min into a 15min cycle it goes through the wash stages and drains but doesn't cure. This means you can wash your prints without curing and I recommend running it once then opening the machine flipping the model then running another wash session.. The reason the machine struggles during the cure part is due to the metal bearings in each corner, they add a lot of extra weight at the WRONG place causing the basket to drag and shutter.. Anycubic advice you remove the bearings (just pop out) and add a little spray of WD40 to the centre bearing that spins the basket before starting, it's the same with all wash machines because the sticky IPA residue dries around the bearings making them stiff and slowing them down.. Spin the basket before and after and you will see it spins MUCH better after applying the lubricant and it only takes a second, also I DEFINITELY recommend using IPA in both tanks but only fill the water side half way and make a hole in the second cap and just feed the drain pipe back into the second tank keeping everything self contained.. Yes this is a little messing around at the start BUT it only takes a few minutes and after that it's a fantastic cure system 100% self contained and I've found it much better than my old elegoo wash cure system!

[@user-sz1ez8ne5l]

It seems like with this modification it works as we all hope it would. Going this route, when do you remove supports? Prewash and cure or post? Last question I have would be what are your support settings and do you get a clean removal without leaving divots or rivets/bumps on the model from your supports?

[@printitpaintit.2436]

@@user-sz1ez8ne5l I always remove my support first just because the supports gather more resin than model and you waste your IPA twice as fast just to chuck them in the bin 2 minutes after cleaning them, I suppose that would be like polishing a turd before you flush! 😆 The best way to deal with support scarring is to change your print settings slightly like reducing the contact area and contact depth so that they leave smaller marks.. I made a video a while back on how to clean up prints and join parts together like a professional, I've gotten a lot better since that video, now I airbrush over the scars and defects with fast resin and before that I use a dremmal to sand or smooth them.. It's DEFINITELY the best way to quickly erase scars and defects without losing any details just remember to wear gloves the entire time wash the print in IPA after and most importantly make sure you wear a respirator, it will stop you breathing in atomised liquid resin that will make you feel sick and make you sneeze blood for 2 days!? (Just making another video covering that technique now actually) Like I say wash cure max is not perfect BUT the only alternative worth buying is the Phrozen wash station at £350 or close to $400 and you are still going to flip the model halfway through and it still makes a mess when you lift a submerged print..

[@pariahzero]

Wild guess about the rinse after cure: Maybe it's to try to mitigate one of your concerns: To try to clear and remove/reduce cured residue from the spray nozzles?

[@ScytheNoire]

Hopefully it has a warning not to use flamable liquids, such as IPA. That aerosol spray would create an extremely explosive mixture and when opened would explode if there is any ignition source. Since they labeled it detergent, I think they are trying to hint that it shouldn't be used with alcohol.

[@foam27]

It says in the manual "such as ipa" as a detergent.

[@probablyinconsistent4756]

This is a very good point, and likely the main reason for having such a robust safety latch. IPA by itself is not a huge safety hazard, as it is flammable, but would burn slow and controlled. However, when you spray a flammable liquid into an enclosed, sealed space full of oxygen, it literally becomes a bomb. Definitely don't want to be smoking around this.

[@shawnhicks619]

@@probablyinconsistent4756I question why anyone that actually cares about their equipment would smoke around it anyways. The smoke leaves a film on everything including internal electronics. And this is from a former smoker.

[@TheDenofBadgers]

This is one reason I build a venthood for my entire 3D printing set up, any fumes are shot out the window and dispersed

[@netnoob77]

What manufacturers really need to come up with is a way to recycle used IPA safely and easily. Now that would be innovation that a lot of users would be willing to pay more since IPA is quite expensive in most parts of the world.

[@JohnVanderbeck]

There's a guy on YT who made a circulating filter system. It is pretty nice

[@eki621]

​@@JohnVanderbeck link ?

[@some1otherthenthat]

Also working on it ;)

[@walidkhier5640]

Destillation is the best way to recover the resin, but it is a dangerous process.

[@forouza1]

As much as I would like an all in one solution, I just don't see how this will ever beat a simple 2 step or 3 step washing system. I use a 3 step process with 3 different large size pickle jars. Jar 1 hold "dirty IPA". Jar 2 which holds "clean" IPA. Jar 3 holds acetone. Rinse in order in each solution for 0.5-1 minute. Prints come out immaculately clean. When Jar 1 gets too "dirty" I remove it, Make Jar 2 Jar 1 and fill up a new Jar 2 of IPA. Jar 3 of acetone may be overkill but I love how quickly it cleans and drys so I can begin the cure process.

[@henriklagercrantz]

Trying something somilar but going to have the last step be a wash in a regular stir-cleaner. I find things get quite messy and unfortunately my sore fingers and face are proof of that. How do you keep from getting this stuff all over your hands?

[@fredericrheme301]

Hello, if you wish not to use water to wash your prints before removing the supports, and to restart a complete treatment afterwards, it is possible to use the error codes. The E11 is the most logical because it triggers if the water tank is empty. Suddenly, it displays the code and you just have to turn off the machine. The cleaning fluid has already come out and there is no water. Once turned off, the magnet deactivates, treat your part and restart the process. Don't forget to add water the second time. Have a nice day.^^

[@alchemistmodels]

This answered all the questions I had when I first saw the product. An intriguing invention and definitely the first step towards sonething promising but doesnt replace just dunking the models in a tub for 10 mins

[@abovewongart]

I love my Wash and Cure Max. I use it for all my prints now.

[@TaMiCGarGit]

how often does the filter gets clogged? do you have problem with dirty IPA?

[@CaveBearsLessons]

The *only' way to use this Washer is to plug the rinse input, to remove the pipe in the rinse container and use it as the evacuation storage of washing fluid after cure. This way the machine will stop with an error after cleaning, you can then remove and thuroughly dry the parts before either using the machine to cure the part or use another means of post curing your parts. There is actually another way. But then you have to either use the bucket or a third container to halde the rinsed 'waste' water - or if you do a second wash with cleaner washing fluid. I'm sticking to the first method and qure larger prints in a larger home built post cure.

[@EfogDev]

Man I just designed and ordered 10 motherboards for my own cure&wash&heat machine several days ago because everything that already exists suck soooo much....

[@SergeiSugaroverdoseShuykov]

That's a thing which scratches back of my head every time i see W&C machines which lacs passion from their creators, what are you planning to use as an enclosure?

[@michaeldasilva]

Works pretty well - but need to make sure outlet hose is clamped to the bucket to avoid messy problems if it pulls out. Also only really practical for bulk washing and curing due to the high water consumption.

[@politicalpolarbear]

That is a very big "BUT" and in many ways a deal breaker. A very good thing that many people might not think of. I don't like watching videos muted and with CC, but the content is worth it.

[@antongunther3977]

Only washing station you need is a 2L air tight container with IPA a second 2L air tight container with clean IPA and one of those plastic pickling jars with your cleanest IPA. Dirty, clean (recycled), clean (fresh) is the best way to wash prints. If you want to get fancy you can get a magnetic stirer (like from a chemistry class) for like 30 bucks.

[@michaelgilbert9995]

I think the water helps prevent air from getting into it. I remember people.doing this before the wash cure stations. Also it increases the sun light strength. People put rhebmodels in a clear container full of water amd hit it with a uv light

[@BozzworthTheRogue]

I like some of the ideas on this machine, but why would you cure with the model still on the supports? Isn’t that against the normal order of operations or is curing on supports now a thing?

[@bacawaka2813]

It probably makes a good final wash if you use the two wash method before curing. I wouldnt do an initial wash with it.

[@GOMACIDE]

Looking to get into the printing world. This was very helpful, thank you.

[@rendez2k]

Great video if a little disappointing on the product front. Was looking forward to this and hoped it might be better!

[@FauxHammer]

You and me both!

[@legionact1]

Thank you for your service!

[@speedbird737]

works fine with hollowed models - another rewiew where time wasn't take to review it properly and over multiple uses

[@FauxHammer]

How? How does it work fine with hollowed models? please explain your version of physics to me so i can understand...

[@printitpaintit.2436]

​@@FauxHammerOk first off you can fill both containers with IPA that's what I have done and it works much better! Second once it's finished spraying out the IPA it spins much faster and it sounds like a washing machine and DEFINITELY cleans inside the model I just finished washing a life sized gremlin torso and it's PERFECTLY clean inside! You do NOT have to let it automatically cure use the cancel button (RESET), if you press the reset button 10min into a 15min cycle it goes through the wash stages and drains but doesn't cure. This means you can wash your prints without curing and I recommend running it once then opening the machine flipping the model then running another wash session.. The reason the machine struggles during the cure part is due to the metal bearings in each corner, they add a lot of extra weight at the WRONG place causing the basket to drag and shutter.. Anycubic advice you remove the bearings (just pop out) and add a little spray of WD40 to the centre bearing that spins the basket before starting, it's the same with all wash machines because the sticky IPA residue dries around the bearings making them stiff and slowing them down.. Spin the basket before and after and you will see it spins MUCH better after applying the lubricant and it only takes a second. I DEFINITELY recommend using IPA in both tanks but only fill the water side half way and make a hole in the second cap and just feed the drain pipe back into the second tank keeping everything self contained.. Yes this is a little messing around at the start BUT it only takes a few minutes but after that it's a fantastic cure system 100% self contained and I've found it much better than my old elegoo wash cure system! It's also a good idea to sit the model on its side because it fills with IPA then gets sloshed around in the spin part cleaning inside.. I'll do a little review in a few weeks but how did you trick the magnet just curious because it would be good to know how you did it, we used a magnet but it meant that the lid couldn't close 100% during testing and some IPA splashed out during the spin cycle and I'd like to avoid it if possible or I'll flip it over and disable the lock! Good review though made me go out and buy mine. 👍

[@10p6]

Hmm, thought about getting this for my M3 Max, but now. Anyone know of any good curing units for the full M3 Max size? I use water soluble so I wash them myself.

[@FreeRadical666]

Thanks for the video. I buy this Wash & Cure Max with Anycubic Photon M3 Max about a weeks ago. Its eat too much IPA. At first i did not know why is that. But now I am sure that i made a mistake buying this so called wash and cures station. Also as you mention it have a very limit control. What if I just want to wash it first, then inspect and cure it, or rewash it again before cure.

[@yeaglaceshorts546]

last summer, I put the machine away drained, and in a warm place. after i took it back out it didn't drain. Now that i have wasted two months trying to get ahold of anycubic, they sent me a new motor, which is constantly receiving an input of 12v, meaning it is always on, even if it isn't in a wash/drain/cure cycle. I am fairly sure it is something to do with the motherboard, but the company takes at least a week to get ahold of, and more if I want to get a part, and at this point, im considering just asking for a refund. I am very confused, as I seem to be the only person struggling with this issue. Is there anything I can do to fix these problems. Thank you

[@stevekay6895]

I think the last wash is just a way of making sure the print is as clean as possible…maybe a waste of time but if I had to guess I would say they are just making sure people aren’t touching resin.

[@marcelocastrob]

En lo personal me gusta quitar los soportes después del lavado y antes del curado, en mi opinión personal quedan menos marcas del soporte en la impresión. Pero por lo que veo en el video, está máquina no permite hacer eso, por lo que ahora tengo la duda si sacar los soportes antes del curado está mal?, o era más fácil tener menos opciones de lavado y curado en la máquina cuando la diseñaron?

[@ManiacleBarker]

Maybe that's what the water is for? Not anything to do with your print, but flushing the spray holes? Especially the one before the cure.

[@stevekay6895]

Nice job ! I have been curious about this since I first saw it.

[@c963852002]

I am curious, if secondary curing is done before the alcohol has fully dried, wouldn't it create a shiny surface on the model?

[@Desmo904]

Did I miss the bit where you said it was $360? (I may well have, I'm currently watching from a fevered COVIDY state) But 360 seems steep for a wash n cure station that can't do the inside of a hollow print. Good video 👍

[@pablofiasco2]

i like the "idea" of teh all-in-one, but man is that a large unit to try to find space in, and having to deal with contaminates blocking nozzles and internals seems like a dealbreaker to me

[@adamjung]

Yeah, the hollowed model cleaning is an issue. Perhaps a post-processing soak? I know it kinda defeats the point of an all in one, but not all models are hollow and swishing cured models in solvent, especially water, isn’t toooo bad. Or am I smoking copium?

[@CXHo-sy1xz]

Nah I have the wash n cure 2.0 thing from anycubic. Does the trick. Stick it in, click a button, take it out, click another, done. This is great for some cases but I don't particularly enjoy the spraying. The dunking is a surefire way to get ultra clean

[@petercallison5765]

This is for very large prints mostly.

[@mikewhite2991]

I added a toggle switch on mine to be able to wash without curing if I want.

[@FauxHammer]

ooh interesting! would not know how to do that

[@user-wg9kb3kd4y]

So my uniformation cleaner is still miles better then any I've seen here so far, the ultrasonic part means it washes even inside models

[@henriklagercrantz]

Does it use up a lot of IPA? Ive wanted to upgrade to something to let things get kess messy and healthier.

[@tenchuu007]

This is a non problem if you take supports off before curing, which is a good plan anyway.

[@FauxHammer]

What is a non problem?

[@tenchuu007]

@@FauxHammer internal curing. If you took the supports off the print and lay it so the internal hole faced the spray nozzles it would clean out the interior sufficiently unless you have small drainage holes.

[@FauxHammer]

@@tenchuu007 I print models. Max drain hole is 5mm. But if you can’t point hole a nozzle because it spins

[@tenchuu007]

@@FauxHammer I mean in the direction the nozzles are coming from as it spins. It's not going to be perfect, but according to their on page fluff it does a bottom level soak, so I assume, maybe wrongly, that it would reach those holes. Not discounting your research, BTW, it's appreciated as always, just think there may be a way around it.

[@hugheja89]

Great review, are you planning on doing a review for the anycubic wash and cure 3 as well? I know it’s probably a fairly simple model but it seems to be the cheapest option out there and was wondering if it’s worth paying the extra for the mercury x bundle for an extra 80

Maybe the second water cycle is to rinse residual resin out of the basin prior to cure… i.e. an attempt to avoid cured buildup…?

[@FauxHammer]

The second cycle is after the cure… that’s why I don’t get it

I missed that. Yeah, that's weird.

[@adamjung]

I was thinking that the pressure of the nozzles might flake off cured resin. I actually picked one up on presale, but still haven’t had a chance to open the box, so I don’t know if the surfaces resist cured resin sticking.

[@stickhatzyart6444]

Hi, I would like to use it only with water since I only use water washable resins. As far as you know, I can only use the water container without using the IPA one? if it can't work without that, can I also fill the container where the IPA goes with water or could something happen?

[@FauxHammer]

Ummm, did you even watch the video? Sorry, but You’re asking me if you can do exactly what I did?

[@netnoob77]

Not sure what's up with Anycubic these days. It seems like they haven't been giving enough thought to their recent product designs.

[@NeoIsrafil]

Lets figure out how to disable the lights, or disable that part of the cycle...should fix it mostly. I plan to give it a larger bottle, so if it sprays long enough it should submerge temporarily, but other than that... Dunno. I bet we can mod this, seems simplistic enough. Gotta wonder a few things... Cant i just run the drain tube to the sewer and run the water line from my shops hose outlet? 😅 Probably take one step out of the process, and if we can swap the board and run it on an arduino or pi i bet we can get it to do what we WANT it to...

[@FauxHammer]

Personally let's just have them redesign it and release it as a good product.

[@sbar091]

Ohhhhhhhh now I get it.

[@FauxHammer]

Right! I still need to see if this one works any better…

[@benkonczal4584]

Great Video! For the algorithm!!!

[@Slurgical_3D_Terrain_Channel]

Thank you for another great video

[@andrewsmith2468]

curing items on supports leads to non uniform curing....

[@DeCurtisProductions]

Does anyone know where the space marine files are from?

[@Hokum_Paints]

@fauxhammer between this and the eibos, which is a more user friendly wash and cure machine?

[@FauxHammer]

This one, by far

[@russlondon]

Great video as always however I am concerned that you have been dropping your 'Ts' recently.

[@Indiaum_]

Thank you for the review! Where can I get the miniature you used in this video?

[@FauxHammer]

The large model of the marine looking guy is by Mezgike. The head sculpt is one that was made specifically for another project I’m working on.

[@JohnVanderbeck]

Rinsing then curing? OMG that is going to cause really bad curing with certain resins.

[@mcstando]

FYI it leaks UV through top cover lol

[@kitthecat948]

I wish I had bought a dishwasher. I don't like my Anycubic Wash and Cure Max; the lack of control is frustrating. I might consider using a Raspberry Pi to add more functions. It's decent for solid miniatures, but I'd recommend getting an ultrasonic cleaner or a regular wash station instead. Don't waste your money on this.

[@kitthecat948]

And I think it does the last water spray to try and mitigate any IPA vapours hanging around etc

[@SergeiSugaroverdoseShuykov]

Even ESP32 is basically an overkill to control this thing

[@ZeeLobby]

Man. If you need help or go down this road let me know. I'm thinking of doing the same

[@guidancebeats]

First and only time I used mine it sent all its fluids on to my floor and ruined my studio. I absolutely hate it so far .

[@Andrea-xw8fw]

It needs to be fully charged with 5 lt every time and use it all? Seams bit expensive...

[@FauxHammer]

5L of water yeah, not IPA

[@Andrea-xw8fw]

@@FauxHammer Thanks for the answer. I'm new to this world and I just bought the m7 pro and the wash & cure max

[@CoFRTheGamerXxX]

Yeah I wouldnt trust an "auto cure" function that cleans the prints, then figures "good enough, lets cure it"... especially without propper drying. Inspection is critical after your first clean. Having said that, can you do (or maybe you already had and I missed it) a video on curing times?? Seems like its a lot of guess work. Some people claim a few minutes is good enough, others way over cure their prints at like 15 minutes+ (for small prints).

[@henriklagercrantz]

I don’t get it. I get half the people saying “cure it in water” and other half saying: “ make sure its dry before curing”. Which one is the right answer? 😄

[@CoFRTheGamerXxX]

@@henriklagercrantz There is no 1 answer, that's my issue. And there really is no explanations as to why one is better over the other, either

[@jasonwalker4483]

So it is completely useless for hollow prints.....

[@mikelucraft]

$440!

[@luisarevalo4645]

Comment for Ross to buy more Legos and wash them in this.... Someday I'll get a KZbin channel to buy some Legos

[@vincentlelong3106]

Am I the only one bothered by the fact this machine cure the model BEFORE removing the support ? I've always removed support before curing, I feel like it's easier to remove and I get less support marks.

[@adamjung]

What I’ve seen others do is remove them before washing.

[@sprocket5526]

interesting product, but there is literally no way in hell I'd use something like this with with HIGHLY flammable isopropyl alcohol. Aerosolized alcohol? you are asking to get blown up and set on fire if you are unlucky or not having, your head not screwed on right and thinking its perfectly safe. 14C flashpoint for alcohol, mix it with air and something that ignites it. yea. mini fuel air bomb.

[@noway8233]

Too much limitations and very over enginier machine , lts big ,nice but i dont like thats only clean outside of the models , and cure wet models , its not good for me

[@Lurker1222]

Hmm.. cool in theory..

[@FauxHammer]

Exactly

[@williamwilson4049]

first thought, you cure your supports ? wtf

[@TheMugwump1]

Seems like an overcomplicated product designed by a person who doesn't use a 3d printer.

[@Gromic2k]

This thing is completely useless. I wouldn´t even take it for free, because of alle the space it needs. But for 350 Euros, ... It´s crazy bad

[@walidkhier5640]

As usual with Chinese products, a great deal of effort is invested and the entire thing is ruined by a couple of silly and stupid features.