Finally The PRO-100 PC42SE ink vs OEM inks Print Results!

Finally The PRO-100 PC42SE ink vs OEM inks Print Results!
Well here they are!
First I walk you through the preliminary steps to use these inks than I show you the OEM vs PCSE inks on actual prints.
They re truly excellent!
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The VERY best Pre Modified and flushed CLI-42 Cart sets ready for refilling with your choice of inks!
They come with the best plugs and ink port snap on clips $60!
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Best Printing and Layout program Qimage Ultimate:
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QIMAGE ONE
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700MML CANON OEM carts for the PRO-1000 and direct use on PRO 2000- and up
www.premiuminks.bigcartel.com/
PRO-100/100s Cleaning Cycles
ddisoftware.com/tech/search2/

[@oldfilmguy9413]

Fantastic results! With almost every image I could pick between the nuances of the prints, and usually liked the PC colors best! No glare on prints, Jose, everything was easy to see. Excellent work! Thank you!

[@cheo1949]

Each image reacted a bit dfferently. I love tbis ink set.

[@theresadiaz2126]

You are such a blessing. Thank you for all your help and kindness 🙏

[@cheo1949]

So nice of you

[@haroldcompere6851]

I am a big fan and a new subscriber. I just ordered my first ink and refill set from Precision Color. Excited to get started. THANK YOU for sharing your expertise.

[@cheo1949]

Thanks and enjoy!

[@ofeenee]

Thank you very much for all your time and the content you put out for the rest of us. I keep returning to it, and it keeps helping me enormously. I have a question if I may: where can I go to get the reference image you recommended in the video around @20:00 ?

[@jamesconner2560]

Thank you again for your service to our couñtry! God Bless America!!

[@cheo1949]

Thank You!

[@frankcollins3867]

Just ordered the PC inks for my Pro 200,,,excited...

[@cheo1949]

I do hope you read the written instructions in the web site. You have to know what you're getting into with the PRO200. Definitely NOT the PRO100 and CLI42 CARTS.

[@cruikshank]

Thank you Jose & Precision Color inks. Unfortunately I JUST refilled my carts with the previous PC Inks. I’ll ordered up a set and start flushing my cartridges. Looking forward to seeing the difference.

[@cheo1949]

Just go ahead and use the regular inks and then worry about flushing them. No need to waste them.

[@LA3198]

Jose, I love your Memorial Day banner. Thank you for your service. USAF 1959-1963.

[@cheo1949]

Thank you for YOUR service!

[@michaellee6654]

Jose thanks for the videos. The litmus test is a direct against OEM as shown here. Few comparisons are done this way for a reason...the results are not pretty. It is at least 100 times easier to make an OEM inkset. Simplified, you combine various colors and print it out and you make an ICC profile that corrects for errors and you're done. When making an aftermarket inkset, You know you're wrong on all colors to start off with. So which one becomes the anchor from which to start? When you get going, remember you need to correct for the errors YOUR aftermarket inkset has as well as try to mimic the errors that Canon inkset has itself which they have corrected for with mathematics in an ICC profle. The amount of work that this entails is tremendous and it underappreciated. It is like trying to solve a 10,000 piece jigsaw. What is not understood generally is that Canon has chosen the colors they have to best match the patterns that their printheads are programmed to print. Yes, you can have a poor inkset "fixed" by producing a custom profile. What is not understood, is that fixing part actually degrades the total potential performance of the printer. By having the closest colors you can possibly get, you use the strengths that Canon has engineered and give up little when you make a custom profile to tweak back the errors. This inkset has been over 2 years in the making and during that journey, I was ready to give up at some points. The other point to note is that when an inkset looks faded when printing, and is corrected with an ICC profile to restore the colors two things which are not apparent to the user apart from what is mentioned above is that actual ink consumption increases, you use more ink to restore a washed out look when a profile is used and secondly, you need to work the printhead harder because it needs to output more ink volume to restore the depth of colors.

[@cheo1949]

I think i know who you are! Thanks. I hope every one reads this.

[@amateurphotographer1096]

Thanks for the generosity in sharing your wealth of knowledge. I still have old pc inks in the carts..is there going to be problems if i refill with SE inks without flushing the old pc inks?

[@cheo1949]

Ideally starting witha flushed full set is best but you will now have a problem doing what you say. But it will better to start with full PC SE.

[@eboeyoyooor7685]

Hi Jose, great video. Have you encounter the error code 5C00 and the printer tray not lighting up after cartridges (Staples) are installed? After cleaning as you'd demonstrated, the power/print light blinks 4 times, pauses and then repeats. Thank you for any possible suggestions to correct this.

[@dunnymonster]

The aspect that stands out to me is the shadow detail, the OEM inks definitely reveal more with less crushing. I can only assume that the OEM Blacks and Grey's integrate more seamlessly. Seeing the results from this new PC set I personally would have no issue switching from OEM. That said I'll be interested to find out the longevity of this new series of inks when compared to OEM. For me it doesn't matter how close any 3rd party ink gets to OEM in terms of colour accuracy if ultimately it starts fading several months later.

[@philiptata3607]

Totally agree!

[@cheo1949]

So that we will see as I tape up the OEM and PC prints on my wall facing east windows.

[@dunnymonster]

@@cheo1949 Thanks Jose 😉

[@michaellee6654]

The Signature inkset was developed with the key target for beginners to printing. The Pro-100 is the ideal printer for the beginner where it is inexpensive to acquire but has the performance to satisfy the most discerning printmaster. Develop your skills on the pro-100 where practice is cheap. Mistakes are not costly. When newcomers develop experience and want to pursue more and get their monitors properly calibrated, then they can start using custom ICCs. Many will not move to that and that is where the Signature inkset is ideal for them. But if they do, the resources are there already. That said, we wanted to provide screen to print experience that the beginner would enjoy. If you look at Jose's first test print, you will see that at the bottom black strip there are squares that test for crushing. The Signature inkset does not crush. What it does have is a gamma curve that is intentionally there for beginners that provides a slight Kodachrome 400 film effect. A similar curve is there for most uncalibrated monitors actually. That way the newbie will get a screen to print match with uncalibrated monitors. For the discerning user, who will have calibrated monitors etc. They will likely know to use an ICC profile and Precision provides Free nearly 60 profiles with 5 different light conditions or about 300 ICC profiles today. Now. Free. If you use the profiles, it is crazy linear. The pro-100 can produce some serious buttery smooth gradients. Jose did not use ICC profiles but OUT of the box newbie printing examples. You might have missed that point. If you are really concerned about fade, it is better to get a pigment ink printer. Chromalife 100+ will also fade in ozone but perform better. Yes, we all know that. But Chromalife 100+ is not guaranteed to last 100 years. www.usa.canon.com/sites/Chromalife100Plus/gas.html Only 20 years. Few people know this. TWENTY YEARS....even under the specified Canon lab conditions. Pigment ink , even the refill Pro-10 ink is way beyond Chromalife 100+. If you are concerned about fade use pigment ink.

[@kcool1128]

Love your videos.

[@cheo1949]

Thanks.

[@Neil-Aspinall]

I have a Canon Pro 4100 which is fine for B&W but color not so much due to the pigment ink. I've heard for the wow factor you should print with dye based inks? What Canon A3+ dye based printer do you suggest?

[@roqueyidi8748]

Sr Jose, perdone que le escriba en espanol, espero que lo entienda jeje, donde puedo comprar la tinta para la canon pixma pro 100? o el link, Gracias

[@KrisK9423]

Hi Jose, Love your videos & find them super helpful! For anyone watching however I did want to issue a buyer beware with PC inks. After a very short time of using them, I noticed a huge decline in the print quality of my designs. Mike at Precision Colors is also extremely unprofessional, aggressive & rude when contacting the company regarding the issue. Personally I would stick to Canon Inks & if you find the cost per print too high, look into other printer options (Canon Prixma G620 is a great option).

[@rickdecarlo]

Is there a link for the OC ink and a set of cartridges? TIA

[@sirmightymoose]

I purchased the SE inks too, they really are better (more vibrant colors)

[@cheo1949]

Glad you like them. I know I am.

[@MarkEChiu2]

Jose, Thanks for your great content. I just bought a "Genuine" CLI-42 Multi pack for my Pro100 from a third party seller. I am not sure if they are genuine because they don't have any holograms on the packaging and the multi-pack baxk is stuffed with brown paper and shink wrapped cartidges instead of individual boxes for each cartridge. Do you know how the genuine ink is packaged? I can't find info anywhere other than the Canon site that says their ink has holograms. Sorry that this isn't totally related to this post.

[@frankcollins3867]

Hey, just watched your video...very helpful...I'm 84 years young and still in photography....Question: in the video, did I hear correctly that I can use the printer for the color rather than an ICC profile..I use Epson Ultra Premium Photo Paper Luster....I can't find the profile for this paper and the Canon Pixma 200....I will be using the Precision Color Inks soon ...Thanks for your Help. Frank.

[@cheo1949]

That's because it's a Canon printer. It will only load CANON paper profiles.

[@mgambard]

I am getting ready to switch to the Precision Colors inkset. Do I need to flush the OEM yellow out of the printhead somehow first?

[@cheo1949]

Yes but all you need to do is installed the YELLOW PC cart and let it do the ink purge.

[@ront841]

hey jose, great video very informative, could you tell me what you are using to keep your ink bottles in that is on your printer. thanks

[@cheo1949]

A 3D printed circular unit with 8 equally spaced holes to hold bottles. Fantastic but requires way too much filament and time to produce. I was made and gifted to me by a viewer.

[@danielvoulkos8274]

@@cheo1949 Using the holder for poker chips. It just happens to have 8 holes and a handle, and hey.....you can BET it works.

[@OGTVnews]

I honestly thought you just drank from an ink bottle for a second there at the very beginning of the video.

[@cheo1949]

I love ink but... not that much.

[@Tappit333]

I was just about to say the same thing, lol

[@sithutube2]

Currently i am using PC old ink (PC42) and if i want to switch to PC signature edition (PC42SE), do i need new flushed cart or can i just refill PC42SE to my old PC42 ink cart ? can i mix old ink (PC42) with new (PC42SE) ?

[@cheo1949]

You can can but it is recommended to start with cleaned carts. Unless you have two sets of carts you will not be able to flush and reuse them as it would take days to dry and you can not have the print head unattended without a cart in place for more than a few minutes. Of course the YELLOW cart HAS to be flushed and dried before refilling with ANY 3rd party YELLOW dye ink.

[@Darklight250]

I have a question. Will the excess leftover OEM inks in the Tubular ink supply system to print head flushes out when inserting the new PC cartridges during the cleaning cycle?

[@cheo1949]

Yes. But there are not tubes or lines in the PRO100.

[@Darklight250]

@@cheo1949 ahh I see. Thanks for clarifying me sir. I'm an artist trying to find a way to produce artprints on my painting pieces for cheaper price and I happened to stumble across on your videos. I'll keep watching more advice videos on your channel because they're really big help for upcoming trials and errors. Thank you sir! I wish you a healthy life during this pandemic.

[@dvobgo92]

Hi! Can you share where you got that first 'beautiful ballet dancer with graffiti on the wall' photo? At 22:30

[@cheo1949]

On line on some free image site. Sorry but I don't remember where.

[@jeongkim9597]

Have you ever considered refilling a cart and then vacuuming the cart to rid the cart of excess air ? Such as with a vacuum seal bag or even a vacuum chamber? Do you have any aftermarket ink recommendations outside of precision colors?

[@cheo1949]

You are better off first collapsing the ink bag and pulling out any ink that may still be present and then load the full volume required and inject that into the cart. Not air would be present in the bag.

[@stephen-wahl]

I'm not sure why you would consider any other third party seller for these particular printers when so much time. Effort and research has gone into this as well as testing and the accompanying profiles that you can download from the website. If you can find any third party ink reseller whose website has custom profiles or any kind of testing or comparisons in any way between theirs and OEM results? Please do let me know. As far as I've ever been able to see, it's a complete crap. Shoot. Your hope for the best and listen to other people's experiences and recommendations. There doesn't seem to be any precision that would allow for the kind of extensive details that PC and this KZbin channel are providing. Hence, José did not or could not give you a recommendation a few years ago. Non-exist.

[@JamieKnop]

Really insightful Jose, thank you! I am based in the UK and wondered if you had tried Advanced Inkjet Systems or InkTec and had any opinion on them? I am looking at ink options for the PRO-2000.

[@cheo1949]

Sorry but I have not.

[@dr5chrome896]

Hello - is this 3rd party inkset still available? I went to the premium web-site and they dont seem to be selling what you have in this video

[@cheo1949]

Of course they have Pro100 Signature Edition inks.

[@chromaticvisionstudio5489]

Have you ever tried ink owl set for the pro 100?

[@cheo1949]

I have not.

[@PaulG73]

I don't want to be the one to burst the bubble but in my view I see a major washout on anything towards the darker scale meaning going from light to dark there is a pretty bad compression in tonal range. To prove the point you can look at how neutral the white goes from light to darker white in the dress on OEM vs PC @23:45 and it is to the point that PC looks like it can not hold the band of the color, meaning it actually is mixing cyan into it and causing a color cast on the dress in the shadow detail which is very pronounced. I just had to point it out, for me with a trained eye, I could not help to notice this and obviously I can see how this would negatively affect any image that has a wide gamut range in any specific color ex. wedding dresses, moody skies etc. For professional purposes, which this printer is designed for utilizing ten inks, this is not acceptable. I actually noticed this issue in all your samples but this one shows it better being that it is easier to point out in a white tonal range such as the dress in the video. My suggestion to fix this issues is to re-calibrate the formula, something is definitely not adding up here. I mean the price point sounds very enticing to save so much per ink swap but there is lot's to give up for this cost in terms of how important your correct colors mean to you and tonal range but for me the worse part is the color cast. I think the color range gets compressed somewhere in the middle where usually gray and black are mixed into the colors, just my two cents of where I would try to work out a better formula. Lastly I would love to see a follow up of these images and how they look now as some time has elapsed to prove if we can see any degradation especially for the people who need to sell their prints. Ideally if you could post some pictures of the two side by side or put them in another video to see how they have aged and if there are any other issues or more color cast etc. that would be very interesting and helpful. BTW sorry if I did not mention it already but great work and appreciation for it! Cheers, Paul

[@Cyberdactyl]

Two questions regarding dye ink and biologicals. - First is it advantageous to store dye inks in the frig to minimize any possible contaminant growth? - Second, I understand the need to not cross contaminate the yellow OEM with third-party yellow to avoid the "yellow-jello" phenomenon. HOWEVER, what happens inside the print head initially when residual OEM yellow cross-contaminates with the third party yellow during the refill's initial print?

[@cheo1949]

The residual OEM yellow is flushed out as soon as you close the printer cover. Refrigeration will help in those regards.

[@cheo1949]

Yellow Jello forms in the sponge when the "perfect" proportion of remnant OEM and 3d party yellow is accidentally achieved. We do not know what that is.

[@Cyberdactyl]

@@cheo1949 Thanks for the quick answer Jose. You are truly the go-to site for ink replacement for the Canon Pro-100.

[@jasoncook2096]

Thanks for the great work! I have the PC original ink set and I have had terrible problems with the prints fading, especially the blacks compared to Canon OEM. Does the new SE significantly improve on the fading issue? You mentioned that the problem colors are the yellow and black. My ink set is mostly full, will replacing the black and yellow ink only with SE improve my results while saving some money? Please let me know what you think.

[@cheo1949]

The new PC42SE is individually matched. So it's best to start with complete set. Dye inks will always fade quicker than pigment. But to answer your question. I an about 8 months into testing two prints. One with 100% OEM and the other done with PC42SE. The PC print is slightly lighter than the OEM. They've been facing a east window continuously. Printed on pro luster. With not the best for this. So had I simply sprayed the surface with something lime MOAB Desert Varnish it would last year's. Remember that is not so much light but YOUR AIR. There is Ozone, and that will oxidize and fade ALL 3rd party dye inks.

[@jasoncook2096]

@@cheo1949 Thank you for the detailed reply. Do you see a major difference between the PC and the PCSE in regards to fading? I am trying to decide if I should upgrade my ink now or run through all of my PC non SE ink first. Thanks Again, Jason

[@cheo1949]

As I said. 8 months and it's hard to tell between oem and new inks. I never tested the originals unprotected. By spraying those original prints there was zero visible fade in one year. Without there was fade but it was overall and not localized. So far I am satisfied. Color is a perfect match. Nothing can compete with OEM as far as longevity.

[@hlk466]

@@cheo1949 What is the cost of the product mentioned? Is there a way to calculate what it would ad to the cost per print?

[@frankcollins3867]

what are the videos you reference in this tutorial...you mentioned 3...please ...thank you

[@cheo1949]

What was I referring to? It's been a while since I did this one and I don't have time to view it right this minute.

[@FuckPedophileBiden]

When using Precision Colors PC42SE ink in the Canon Pixma Pro-100 do you use Precision Colors ICC profiles, or the Canon profiles in Photoshop?

[@cheo1949]

PC. Or my own custom profiles.

[@FuckPedophileBiden]

@@cheo1949 Thank you! : )

[@wombatarrow5047]

What’s a accurate percentage rate you can save on money when you spend money on precision colors ink compared to OEMs for the pro-100?

[@cheo1949]

On refill will cost you about 70 cents.

[@Methodical2]

A lot.😁

[@gordonrizorii3196]

How is the longevity on the SE vs the original PC inks? About the same?

[@cheo1949]

We don't know. They've only been out for about 6 month.

[@jaredlayser1469]

Hello Jose, I love what you do! I hope you don't mind but I have a few serious questions, you've been very helpful before and I am not sure how to reach you besides a youtube comment. I have had a pro 100 for a little while and I am on a roll. I've found it possible to make large format iron on transfers- combined with a sealant like clear vinyl or a spray and delicate care instructions they do hold up. Using after market inks, only the yellow runs easily! (easily fixed though) I would like to know from a pro like yourself- am I crazy to do this? I haven't had the time to really battle test these shirts long term, have washed cold gentle and been fine so far. I have seen more than one person with other dye based printers do this and they work well. Also- what is my entry level price for a printer with a good resolution that can print with latex ink, or any other professional option besides sublimation? I am working toward making a business out of this, I will not sell anything I cannot stand behind long term. I can think of at least one person that uses the same transfers with dye ink and sells them with no reported problems. Thank you so much and sorry again for the 20 questions!

[@cheo1949]

The pro 100 will work well for iron-on transfers however you cannot use any other kind of ink on a Canon printer. So forget about sublimation inks and forget about vinyl inks. The printhead that Canon printers utilize cannot handle these types of inks

[@jaredlayser1469]

@@cheo1949 thank you Jose! I was asking about a printer that can handle those inks, I know I can't put them in the pro 100. It's a huge price jump but I am curious about printers traditionally used for tshirts and the ballpark cost.

[@cheo1949]

Iron on type transfer can be printed onto with ANY inkjet printer. No special inks are required. I much prefer Sublimation rather than the inferior iron on process.

[@jaredlayser1469]

@@cheo1949 thanks again Jose! My goal now is to do everything possible with the pro 100, in time I see better options for tshirts but I am very happy at the moment!

[@jesiel7379]

Any idea if longevity have been improved with this new Special Edition?

[@cheo1949]

No dea at all. That woukd take at least a few years for a real world test. Time will tell.

[@michaellee6654]

The most durable dyes that also performed colorwise was sought. The SE will not match OEM and NO AFTERMARKET will. If the SE has an issue with your environment, then you must return to OEM or change to a pigment ink printer. Some of the components of this inkset cost more than 50% more than the prior inkset. These costs are not acceptable for most refill ink companies. Jose is correct in that the Black was improved as well as the yellow but the gray inks were horrendously expensive and was not on the shelf before but custom formulated, and short of Canon Chromalife 100+ is the best the aftermarket can get their hands on. But it is not Chromalife 100+. If you want Chromalife 100+ , there is only one brand CANON.

[@wombatarrow5047]

Where do you recommend to buy a Canon pro 100 for the cheapest price?

[@cheo1949]

Just check the sales from the various authorized dealers.

[@aidanisin738]

mr rodriguez ,how do I download VOO2 test image?

[@cheo1949]

From my Facebook link on all my video description and then after younjpin gontonthe FIKES tab and download. Or search Google for Outback Test Images.

[@danielroman4612]

WHERE I CAN FINE THE INK FOR THE CANON PRO 100 PIXMA

[@cheo1949]

www.precisioncolors.com

[@NoRoads2AllRoads]

so are these inks better than Precision Colors?

[@cheo1949]

They are precisioncolors.

[@mishniak]

First time watching the channel, very informative thanks. Just one suggestion. It be nice to credit the photographers who took the photos in the test prints, as common courtesy. You can just put that in the video description (or give them a shoutout on the air if they really deserve it ;)

[@cheo1949]

I would except there are aren't any credits to provide that I can access. Otherwise I gladly would.

[@grannmomm]

Who do you recommend for sublimation ink

[@cheo1949]

www.precisioncolors.com and www.inkowl.com

[@grannmomm]

@@cheo1949 we are looking at et-7750 and wondered if you have any info on sublimation printing with this printer

[@cheo1949]

Sorry. I really don't know those models.

[@fatkingfast2687]

Hello Jose, thank you for all your videos, I have a question, just got the canon pro 100, and I’m running in the cartridges that come with the printer, at the same time I already order all the ink from PC. So my question is, what should I do when the first OEM cartridge finish, should I replace them all at that time with the refilled ones? Or should I replace the one that finish and keep using the others until finish them? I know you recommend to replace them all at the same time and refill all at the same time, but in this case we are talking about the original ones that came with the printer, so if I replace them all at the same time I will be trowing a lot of ink to the garbage, please let me know. Also would like to know if the yellow cartridge that PC sends is as good as the OEM. Thank you very much

[@cheo1949]

I only recommend complete set changes after all of the cartridges have been refilled with a given ink set. While you are still working with the original inks you might as well use them one at a time let them go to LOW and top them off with the new inks. You said you were using Precision colors so of course for yellow one you must use the cartridge they provided you and swap the chip from your own cli-42 cartridge on to the one they gave you. Then fill that one with the PC signature edition yellow ink. What I actually recommend is for you to buy a complete set of pre modified and flushed cartridges from eBay. I have a link on the description of the video and you will be able to simply refill all of those from scratch and that way you know you are beginning to print with 100% Precision color signature edition inks rather than a mixture. There are many options for you to choose on how best to proceed.

[@fatkingfast2687]

So let’s say black finish first, I replace that cartridge with the PC refilled one and keep printing? Is ok if one or more cartridges refilled with PC and the others OEM ink work at the same time?

[@cheo1949]

Yes.

[@fatkingfast2687]

Jose Rodriguez thank you very much

[@fatkingfast2687]

Jose Rodriguez hello Jose, one more question, I just received my SE ink from PC, so, should I flush the OEM cartridges that came with the printer before refilling them? Thank you so much

[@eddychuah6390]

Hi, where to buy the ink?

[@cheo1949]

Where I mentioned. www.precicioncolors.com but they only ship from Canada to Canada and USA.

[@_its_ish_]

i cant even find a used one for under 100 bucks.. where do you find these sales? they do sell a lot of them with no print head but the print heads are over 300 bucks.. might as well buy a new one.

[@cheo1949]

They are becoming scarce. But when available they are offered by CAMERA Mail order stores

[@stephen-wahl]

found one easily here in Vancouver Canada

[@The7dioses]

When I print in black and white with my pro 100 using OEM inks, I don’t get full black and white, I actually get a very very dark bronzing effect that is close, but no cigar. Does the SE PC edition inks print full blacks with no bronzing effect? Thanks for your helpful info.

[@cheo1949]

What paper are you printing on??? You should not be getting ANY bronzing effect. That only happens with some Pigment inks! As you see on this video I get Zero Bronzing with either OEM or PC SE!

[@michaellee6654]

B&W is extremely tricky with dye inks. Canon has pulled off the best tricks so far but due to issues due to the physics of light and perceived colors, it can sometimes fall short. First off, the Black ink in the Pro-100 is not Black. Most modern printers black ink is not black for a reason. When the printer is asked to print the blackest black it can, it will also print CMY as well. to make a blacker black than black ink itself. The amount of other colors it will use to make black will depend on the paper it is being printed on. So are you using Canon paper with the OEM ink? If you are using a custom profile, did the profiling software correct for this effect.? there is a mathematical adjustment that the profiling software must use to compensate for the CMY addition. Not all software do this and the authors about the software keep mum. The human eye is extremely sensitive to greys and our sensitivity also varies by color but grey, humans are super sensitive to. You will see sometimes that delta E of 1 is around what we can perceive to be different as humans. This is not correct, it depends on the color. The black and grey OEM inks used by the Pro-100 as well as the SE inkset are not pure colors but composite colors. Each element of the composite reacts differently on each batch of paper, even the same paper model! Perfect B&W printing requires a very precise workflow. If you print with OEM inks and do the B&W monotone, you can shift the tones using the rectangular quadrant box on the driver. If you print with the SE inkset, it is best to use the ICC. The monotone option is extremely finely tuned to the paper and ink... I suspect it switchces to a low gamut mode but can better manage the intermediate tones. Printing the same image in B&W versus using the color mode, invokes different inks actually. As to bronzing, that was one of the problems the early SE inksets had on B&W. It was cured by choosing a different black dye and the compromise was slightly lower durability but longest life with bronzing as a side effect was not acceptable. Engineering something always requires compromise. If you marry an engineer, they typically know that everything is a compromise!

[@michaellee6654]

www.usa.canon.com/sites/Chromalife100Plus/improved.html notice "by combining a variety of dyes." just above the final highlighted box.

[@The7dioses]

Canon Semi-gloss 13x17 that came with the printer, and the canon inks that came with the printer!! The color cast is subtle, yet it’s clearly perceivable. The irony is that the people that have seen my work think that I intentionally aimed for such nuance. Anyway.

[@The7dioses]

Thanks for the helpful input.

[@pantag2]

Too long did not “read”. Are the SE colors better?

[@cheo1949]

Did not read what? Did you at least watch the video. It is worth the time spent. Then younwould be able to actually see the results and not justvl take my word for it.

[@sidewinder666666]

I just ordered a set of the empty cartridges. When my tax refund arrives I'm getting the inks from Precision Colors. It's a tremendous cost saving.

[@cheo1949]

You will not regret it.

[@sidewinder666666]

@@cheo1949 Thank you, I'm sure I won't regret it. Question though.... I have a set of partially used OEM cartridges in use now on my Pro-100. I'll fill and use the carts I just ordered with PC inks, but..... with the *exception* of the yellow cartridge (which I'll thoroughly clean with Windex and then LOTS of warm water then fill with PC ink) can I just "top off" the other partially-empty OEM tanks with the Precision Colors ink? Or should I bite the bullet and flush those cartridges too so that I am using 100% Precision Colors ink?

[@sirmightymoose]

@@sidewinder666666 can flush YOUR carts for $2 ea plus return shipping. Many have sent me theirs to take care of. Removing the ball, drilling the hole and flushing (once you get involved with it) may not be worth your trouble while those like me have it down to a science.

[@sirmightymoose]

SHOULD you mix ? Most people say NO.

[@sidewinder666666]

@@sirmightymoose I refilled Epson 564 cartridges for quite some time before that printer died so I'm well familiar with flushing and drilling, but thanks for the offer regardless. And if most people say NO to mixing.... well.... I'll just chalk up the lost OEM ink as a necessary expense and do full refills of PC inks.

[@NilsDecker]

Hi Jose, what a great video. I just have a quick question about yellow... you mentioned in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eGHTgWpno7-Fj9k to ALWAYS use OEM yellow and never PC or any other third-party ink. Does this still apply with the new ink by PC?

[@cheo1949]

Only IF you wanted to avoid the hassle of having to flush an OEM yellow cart clean prior to using with ANY other third party yellow ink. Any original OEM yellow ink mixed with ANY third Party Yellow ink causes a gelling reaction. Also OEM yellow has MUCH longer longevity than ANY other third part yellow pro the Pro100. I also mentioned OEM Black being MUCH better than ANY third Party Black for the PRO-100. So you can refill the other 7 color or 6 if you want to use OEM black and yellow.

[@NilsDecker]

Jose Rodriguez thanks for responding Jose. I ended up ordering the premium PC set that they currently have on sale. Would you recommend then just running two separate sets of inks? One all OEM and one PC (in my case)? I am looking for s cost effective way of printing relatively large format photos of mine regularly and think that going with OEM inks only will be over budget for me very quickly.

[@JamesCrotts]

Careful with Precision Color. Mike sent me a defective chip re-setter and has not responded to any emails about it. Weeks of email attempts. If integrity and customer service mean something to you there are other more reliable alternatives.

[@cheo1949]

I've dealt with PC for years. Integrity has never been an issue. Even when I was just a "CUSTOMER" Now about the resetter. For what model? By the say..they've been sick as have I. And they've also been out of the country due to family illnesses as well. How exactly is it defective? I assume it's either for the PRO100 or PRO10? I need to know whether it is for Canon carts. Since they are USB powered make sure it is tightly connected to the resetter plug. Do you even see the initial red pulse on it followed by the steady red pulse?

[@JamesCrotts]

@@cheo1949 it is a pro 100 and It does not reset gray carts. The other colors work fine just not grey. i noticed it when i first tried to reset, and they told me it was something i did wrong. Could have been true at the time, but after resetting the other colors a couple dozen times, and buying three or four oem grays all of which fail to reset, it is clearly something about the re-setter. I have been trying for a while now to get it fixed and they simply stopped responding at all. Service is measured when things go wrong not when everything works perfectly out of the box, and they clearly do not care about service or integrity. If they have been sick for months, i wish them the best if that is the case there is more important stuff than printing, but it would certainly surprise me if they could run a business being away for this long.

[@cheo1949]

Do you have the RED Ressetter brand resetter? I have it as well. I have no problem resetting any of my Gray chips. I will try to contact PC for you.

[@cheo1949]

I f you send me your USA address to [e-mail] I can send you one of my reset gray carts. And then if you wish..send me your grays and I can test them and see what could be the problem.

[@JamesCrotts]

@@cheo1949 I don't know the brand it is that orange/red color base and I bought it from PC. I don't want to put you out. I have gone through enough greys to know it is a problem with just grey carts. I saved one to try reflashing once i buy a new programmer. I had to order another oem in the mean time.