Finding Lost Power in my 1989 F-150! Revival Part 2

[@JunkyardDigs]

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOOK

[@garageofscrap]

I see you survived having a box of tp being thrown at you earlier Also. Happy birthday mook!!

[@clarksonyouinfantilepilloc8041]

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOOK!!! :D

[@m1stertim]

BAPPY MIRTHDAY HOOK

[@Itsfr_Kai]

Hi Kevin! Can you also notice me? I have been watching you for a week I'm oppsessed with your videos and mooks videos! I love you guys!

[@Trenton-om9qs]

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOOK

[@WatchWesWork]

Flash the codes out of it with your diagnostic paper clip. ECT sensor issues are common cause of hard starting. Makes the engine act like the choke is stuck on.

[@waqarulhaq9491]

Mook. Nice to see your own channel. Great!!

[@Joseph-C]

Definitely check codes. If there are none my ford EFI wasn't getting enough voltage to the injectors while cranking which caused a horrendously long cranking time. Check the voltage of the red wire at the injectors while cranking. It needs to be above 9v or you're gonna have a bad toim. That and TIMING was making mine do this as well, mook said she hadn't set hers yet so I would start there.

[@lyndelbeckwith1706]

Too many commercials I'm out.

[@ProleDaddy]

You can cut fuel supply while cranking by holding the gas pedal to the floor. Try this during cranking to see if it helps. If it does, that would indicate that you're getting rich during cranking and the ECT, as mentioned, is a typical culprit. You can test it with an ohmmeter while heating in a pot of water on the stove, watching for a sudden change in resistance and numbers that don't correlate with the temperature changes.

[@markwilliams4525]

@@lyndelbeckwith1706 pay for youtube and you won't get any commercials

[@shawnruddy6043]

Highlight of the day! The world needs more Mook!

[@unchained20000000]

MOORE MOOK!

[@danhalen2579]

She is so freaking cute!

[@jons3223]

Check the grounds, voltage drop test during cranking would be the procedure. Just inspect, clean them; bare clean metal. The pcm has a ground with a connector in it going to the battery, check it. Look for an orange ground at the rear of the intake. Ground from batt to fender. Ground to block. Clean connections at the battery. Check for batt acid creeping down the wires, cut back to clean copper. Give all the grounds some love. I’ve repaired many 80’s and 90’s Fords by simply addressing the grounds. often after people have changed every part they found! Imagine the greedy starter might be hogging the ground in your case, all electronics end up inaccurate during cranking.

[@cindys.collins3714]

Happiest Birthday ever to you! I am a 53 year young female and I have always loved working on my vehicles myself until I injured my spine ...to much drama so to make a long story short it really is inspiring to see another young woman who enjoys working on her own vehicles thank you LADY MOOK 😊 and love to your puppy 🐶

[@melindaortiz9741]

Hope your back doing better

[@ronjanke4101]

Mook r u how old,oh that is right u r 22 right

[@gregbotlin4446]

@@ronjanke4101 She's 14....just guessing

[@ZyklonB95]

Look into a new TPS and coolant temp sensors. The TPS is on the bottom of the throttle body and cooks over time. I changed mine, along with the coolant temp sensor and it made a HUGE difference in cranking, idle, throttle response and power. Pretty sure it's similar to my 93, engine bay looks familiar anyway.

[@tkjedrey1]

I agree, I replaced my coolant temp sensor on my 92 and took care of my cranking issue.

[@ZyklonB95]

@@tkjedrey1 Yeah. A lot of these old Ford parts are so cheap, it doesn't hurt too much to throw a little money at it. I just started replacing common issue sensors until I found my issues. Now if my brakes would just magically fix themselves.

[@gadget73]

also might be worth pulling the idle controller and flushing it out with carb cleaner. when those get gummy it can start hard. Supposed to go full open when cranking, but if its got gak in there it can't move properly.

[@ImTheJoker4u]

Yup Coolant temp sensor. When it goes bad the ECU defaults to a leaner mixture for running, so it saves your cats, but makes starting hard, and less power at WOT.

[@jasondeloach3045]

Sorry to say the coolant sensor isnt gonna do that most likely the tps

[@tomfl58]

Just a guess cause I had the same problem years ago , the exhaust system had a collapsed iner pipe and also could be muffler or catylt converter .Happy Birthday 🎉

[@Coltondk]

Good point with its lack of power, should put a back pressure tester on it.

[@lawnmowermanlawnmowerman9930]

I'd ditch the cats for sure on that model truck, it'll have way more power without them

[@HotrodDan]

Hey Mook--- love how you said the fuel system is 'iffy' and right over your shoulder the emblem was 'EFI'. LOL

[@lynnbarker7651]

Rear brake adjustment: if truck has rear self adjusters that aren’t all rusted up, then go to parking lot, place in reverse go about 5 mph and pump brakes hard two times. Self adjusters will ratchet and adjust. Drive forward and see how pedal height improved. If not sat then repeat. I do this about every 2-3 months on my vehicles.

[@jeremiahhively3025]

Happy birthday, I absolutely love how happy you are. I have been struggling with life for a while now and stumbled on one of your videos and your happiness and positivity has me smiling and feeling happy for the first time in a long time.

[@zerofriends5592]

I agree. Mooks charisma, good nature, and...equipment, are nice. Kevin seems like a good man as well. They make a good couple.

[@josephcetar9202]

Injector hanging up and bleeding off your pressure before startup is where I would start. Happy Birthday, you still look like a 15 year old and that will be a blessing later on.

[@proehm]

Especially if it starts ok when it hasn't been off too long.

[@markamcampbell6340]

She looks like a 15 yr old. Maybe that's why Kevin likes her.

[@tonylanovaz6127]

@@markamcampbell6340 wtf???

[@SteveTheFordGuy985]

@@markamcampbell6340 Keven loves her because mook is a beautiful person on the inside and outside, the whole enchilada.

[@jamesw141]

My 89 started like that changed the computer and it starts great now

[@brianb8830]

Best line by Kevin "disappointing but smoothly disappointing."

[@Sci_fi_and_cars]

That's what they call me...

[@markamcampbell6340]

Paint the shocks blue

[@brandyf4088]

As an unofficial owner of a '91 F150 XLT Lariat 302 myself, I can totally relate to Kevin's words. Ugh. But, that clear coat tho.

[@AndrewCollins7]

As a 90s Ford owner, never before have I been so offended by something I completely agree with.

[@yoooneat7766]

That sounds like something hank hill would say lol

[@ja-bv3lq]

"Sorry to disappoint." Mook, your vids are fun - there is no disappointment! 👍

[@coreyk1168]

Love the way you and Kevin repair all these cars and trucks. Keep up the great work !! Corey from Australia......cheers.

[@alwynemcintyre2184]

One of the best things about watching junkyard digs/mook is the circle of friends and the family members that make this channel possible.

[@jayborchardt4742]

Love the video, but i remembered a fairly important tech tip, when you throw out dull razor blades, wrap them with electrical tape, for 2 reasons: it wont slice the garbage bag open, and it helps protect anyone else that handles that garbage bag!

[@towrecker]

cheap piggy bank from the dollar store is what we use to dispose of them right in the slot ( yes only after I shortened my finger on one laying on the bench )...small kiddy pools , you know the blue walmart plastic ones everyone tosses to the curb after summer for the trash man make excellent coolant containment , engine covers if one sets out side , great to toss jacks , tools jack stands , wood blocks ect in for a recovery mission , toss it on the trailer or rollback in our case , one strap over it , and roll , I have 6 or 8 of them at the shop , also good to catch diesel leaks from a leaking tank , usually free on the side of the road and very handy ... balloons are another good trick (some people use gloves but they are not as versatile) , they can seal off radiators ect when parts are taken apart for a few days , or an idiot like myself looses the fuel cap off my rollback and it's calling for rain ... just some of my stupid things I do maybe one could be useful to someone someday , maybe someone else will add something I may find useful ...

[@bluebucketcustoms4431]

We have specific disposal containers at my workplace for razors so the bums don't cut themselves digging for cans/bottles in the trash for deposit.

[@pi1797]

Or use a big Miracle Whip or mayonnaise jar once it is empty. Of course clean the jar. The cut a slot in the top and drop them in.

[@tjsides1983]

Happy Birthday Mook! Keep on teaching Kevin everything he knows!

[@lowellfunk8974]

Kevin is the "special tool" well that explains a lot! 😂😂😂😂 Keep up the great work! Love the videos!

[@pedroaguilar2754]

Is nice to see young people keeping these older trucks alive

[@16vSciroccoboi]

You'll have a lot easier time loosening fasteners like those on your rear shocks if you loosen the nut instead of the bolt. Small thing people don't think about often, but it makes a massive difference.

[@jamessturrock6802]

Mook, you're my personal hero for all the bug and spider breaks. Best part of working on any old car/truck. Happy!!!

[@trybriguy1357]

Just a couple shortcuts I used as a young buck, back in the early 60's. When I pulled the wires off my motor, My moms clothes line was close by so, I took 8 clothes pins off her line, numbered them all one through eight, four right, and four left. Made it very easy putting them back on with no mistakes, LOL.

[@DarkFlamage]

Great idea, then give her back the greasy clothes pins to used on her freshly washed clothes! 🤣👍👍

[@towrecker]

LOL out of all they crazy things I do and have done , I have never done that one , but I like it , that is a great idea, the old wood ones have the round cut in them it's perfection ! , and really is a K.I.S.S. method (keep it simple stupid) in case someone did not know what that stood for LOL

[@trybriguy1357]

@@DarkFlamage To be honest, putting clothes pins on spark plug wires, don't have grease on them, if you do, that's why your motor is running bad. I still have the pins in my tool box from 60 years ago. They are not greasy at all and have worked great for years!!!

[@joer8854]

@@trybriguy1357 If they are greasy, your valve cover gasket isn't anymore.

[@trybriguy1357]

@@joer8854 You've got that right!!!

[@robroten6446]

Your injectors are rusted up and it's running dead lean under load. Cruise at "closed loop" EFI it will run OK but it will lack power under moderate acceleration (and fall on its face towing) when it goes to "open loop" and the ECU can't/won't compensate for the restricted injectors. (That first generation EFI is very crude compared to what we have today.) If the truck spent any time sitting with garbage modern "gasohol", I can guarantee the injectors are rusted up. That's why the sparkplugs look "burned white". It's lean. I have a 1990 F150 (240k miles, 2nd motor, 2nd tranny, same generation as the '89) and chased my tail for over a year, trying everything, before a long talk with an old hand mechanic convinced me it was worth the expense. Fixed it. Done. Tows like a champ now. Also, double check that the PVC vent hose is connected to the manifold (passenger rear valve cover). If it's off, the ECU can't compensate for the air entry outside of the throttle (TPS sensor) and it goes lean because you're getting more air than the TPS says you should be getting. More importantly, make sure the "mod" (there's a TPS on this, I think) has been done to relocate the hose connector on the manifold to the center. (Otherwise, you will kill the #8 cylinder with the oil vapor concentrating into that cylinder as the motor ages and blowby increases.) Finally, those trucks have spongy brakes. I've never been able to get a "firm" pedal. Also, if the truck has rear ABS, the ABS valve is notorious for failing and giving you a "no-brake" condition or spongy brakes. I "bypassed" the valve with fittings, plugged the openings, and left it plugged in to avoid the Brake Warning Light. You can try to bleed the valve but it didn't help the spongy brakes. Seriously, I know way more about these trucks than I ever wanted to. Hope this helps.

[@Idallun]

Might be a good opportunity for a video on testing and cleaning injectors

[@BUILTFORDTOUGH79]

That’s the way it goes when you’re troubleshooting blind. My first car was a 96’ Chevy blazer. I know waaay more about the 4.3l vortec than I ever thought I would or will ever know about any other Chevy motor

[@cliffordkinnear9705]

So what fixed it Rob? Did you replace the fuel injectors? Okay Thanks. Your posting is helpful. My 1989 F150 5.0 is doing the same thing as Mooks F150.

[@robroten6446]

@@cliffordkinnear9705 Yes. New injectors fixed it. The old ones were obviously rusty and beyond hope of cleaning. Also replaced all of the injector pigtails while I was at it given how brittle they were. You'll need to pull the top half of the manifold but that center tore head bolt is hard without the right tool(s). Also a good time to do the PVC mod if it hasn't already been done.

[@BillHoltzman-dn8br]

I like the way you working on your truck please keep up the good work because you are doing an awesome job

[@Quacks0]

Love how she flashes her sparking beaming smile at the end :D

[@Deeg4570]

Mooooooooookk! I am sure I speak for all when i say we miss you, you make me smile and laugh! the world needs more Mook!!!

[@kman-mi7su]

Love the truck! I own a 1988 Ford F250 X-tended cab, long bed, with the 7.3 IDI diesel that I'm currently resurrecting. I swapped the motor back in May, and have been slowly doing work on it in my driveway. I hope to have it all finished by the end of October my work schedule has been the slowing factor in getting it done. Finding the time to devote more than a day or a couple of hours has been tough. "Slow and steady wins the race" as the old saying goes.

[@jamesevensen7565]

I love the dynamic you guys have. So far its all been typical stuff for a 90's era ford truck. keep up the good work

[@sergiosolis4538]

Start it like a diesel, whereas turn the key to "on", wait a few seconds to let the fuel system pressurize, then crank.

[@dustintunis9347]

She did give it time to prime.

[@mylanmiller9656]

if you need to cycle the pump before starting then the Regulator needs to be replaced !

[@jonsworld5307]

@@mylanmiller9656 they replaced that and i did on my truck to still want start first try think its just a ford thing

[@FordManiac76]

Clear bottle with clear hose is the way I’ve always bled brakes. Learned it somewhere. Break fluid is a good paint remover, you don’t want that shit all over the place!

[@lightningbear2135]

It’s always entertaining to watch you talk to the truck.

[@StevesWanderlust]

We desperately need a "Mook Out of Context" compilation video

[@johndechiara262]

I second the motion 🚬🐕

[@PACKERMAN2077]

*_That's what Mook said_* mega cut

[@thethousandstepsofhoneythe3742]

I third the motion. All in favor say I!

[@bobmarnoch9118]

I suggest Mook Moments shirt videos form the out takes from Kevin’s videos.

[@shaharsdechen2537]

yes.

[@Gman3ambb]

Mook I truly enjoy your channel! The episode that caught my eye is this one about the 89 f150! I have the same year that I’ve been slowly restoring, It was given to me by one of best friends family after he suddenly passed away. Keep up your adventure!

[@brandyf4088]

🙏 from Texas about your buddy. No doubt he's there every time you work on that F150. Take care, BrandyF.

[@melindaortiz9741]

Good luck on your truck build

[@wakanda_4_ever]

Happy Birthday Mook! 🎉🎂🎉 And to fix the starting issue, I think the injectors need cleaning. Put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank and see if that helps. 👍

[@YungEBT]

Kevin was definitely on the Hub 4:41

[@troyrosenbaugh9935]

Had one like rat was doing the same thing, changed ignition module never had another issue. Happy Birthday

[@smarternu]

it's the MAP sensor. The fuel side is fine, it's the air side of the mix.

[@grantkoeller8911]

map sensor would activate check engine light

[@smarternu]

@@grantkoeller8911 It has been my experience that you can't always rely on the warning system. Especially before OBDII.

[@rhondajones3530]

@@grantkoeller8911 I would listen to him because he's smarternu,,,,,,,see what I did there?

[@isfallingdown]

I was having similar problems on my 87 f150. Replacing the MAP helped the idle, bit installing a penny on the EGR helped the power and mpg. No check engine lights and no codes.

[@mark98070]

@@isfallingdown Installing a penny...where?

[@vintagedashboard6810]

Happy Birthday Mook! Yeah having spark plug wires off will make it run with low power and will screw up the fuel mixture on the oxygen sensors.

[@snicolai]

I was trying to chase down power loss in my F-250 460 for awhile, and it turned out to be a seized fan clutch.

[@1320gearhead]

I like Mook's marble collection. I have a collection of marbles I have found too. Spray paint cans are a good source of collectable glass marbles inside. Some cans come with a steel ball bearing but most have marbles. When I found this out I started cutting open my empty cans for the precious treasure inside.

[@mkbarber65]

Happy birthday! Nice work on the truck, looking forward to seeing what the starting problem is

[@gregdiiamond3899]

I was hoping for booger. The 89 needs love too. Happy Birthday Mook!

[@Cyruscosmo]

Happy Birthday, Mook! Wishing you all the best and many more adventures in the future!

[@grantmcgilberry]

got this same truck it's really inspiring seeing you work on the same things i've been trying to learn!

[@timnewton9610]

Happy belated birthday mook I love watching you and Kevin I struggle with anxiety and depression watching your videos helps me a lot please keep up the GREAT WORK

[@jamesbigham9036]

Well done Mook your channel is one of my favorites I love to watch videos about working on vehicles. You are really good at fixing things. I hope you will keep us updated on your truck

[@frankleonard6570]

happy birthday Mook! 🎂 low power on the 302 is possibly plugged muffler or catalytic converter or bad tps or temp sensor as for the long crank check fuel press with a guage can also be bad injectors good luck tracking it down keep up the great videos! 👐

[@tonygrainger7813]

I see the police released you after kitchen roll assaulting Kevin 🤣 Oh an ps, nice to see the truck running smoother , well done you 👍👍

[@cobra02411]

When you do valve cover gaskets make sure you have an extra long torx T-40 for the center bolt on the upper intake. Check the EGR tube when you do it too. They like to crack. Check the center pivot bushings in the beams. When they go bad they have all kinds of handling issues.

[@randallcarney1216]

And the radius arm bushings and ball joints

[@randallcarney1216]

Tie rods and steering shaft slip joint and rubber rag joint .

[@Busyacre]

Harmonic balancer. Having the same problem with my 89 351w F250. Right manifold was glowing. Was hard start prior to it. I put new cat, cleaned tanks, fuel pump and filter, compression check. Fuel pressure test. Put a timing light on it. Should be at 10 degrees btdc with the spout connector in the harness out. Good luck and happy Birthday Mook

[@orionwarren4244]

Hey, Mook actually cussed (a little) 30:37. And as always, a pleasure watching the woman-child do her thing! LoL

[@ablaze7973]

Try a new starter motor, have had 3 vehicles now that had long cranking time before starting, each one turned out to be a warn starter 🙂

[@greggoett]

Get a gear reduction starter.. not a cheap oem style, the cheap aftermarket versions don't hold up or spin well.

[@warrenpuckett4203]

I bought a 88 Ranger that sat for 3 years. Had to replace every relay in it. Check every connection and clean it. I was lucky the fuel pump still worked. I was also lucky that the ECU was still good. Electronic connection cleaner and waterproof non conductive silicon is your best friend. When used properly it fixes a lot of issues.

[@TheLionAndTheLamb777]

As others have stated, check the coolant temp sensor, inspect and clean grounds, replace the 02 sensors, and fuel injectors.

[@jeremiahhively3025]

I was also thinking coolant temp sensor

[@Nick-ue7iw]

Fun fact, this is first gen EFI. No O2 sensor. That didnt come until the OBDII models.

[@Blakews221745]

For the rough starting, check the timing chain, they like to go slack. Also verify ignition timing. If it’s ECC2 there should be a diagnostic port near the driver firewall corner under the hood. If you jump a wire to ground you can count flashes of the check engine light to get codes. How does it start hot? It could be many things like coolant temp sensor, map sensor on its way out, tps, just a lot of things it could be. But for most of them you can grab a meter and test the sensors

[@MegaDysart]

I think 89 was too early for ecc2

[@Blakews221745]

@@MegaDysart it probably is. I haven’t messed with a Ford that old in a long time.

[@gailtaylor1636]

45+year Tech here. Save your back. Either remove the valve cores to let air out of front tires, or remove the front wheels and set it down on a 2x4' under the lower ball joint or rotors. SAVE YOUR BACK!!!

[@d.c.2916]

@junkyard mook - love your videos - I know you're careful by nature, but please make sure your hair never gets caught by the spinning drive belts...enough said - Keep Up the Great Work!!!

[@josephroth3982]

Hey, I don't know where you are on the long crank issue, I just watched this video today. You should hook up a pressure gauge to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and see if you have pressure drop when after you shut the engine off. Check it on both tanks. If the pressure drops on one tank and not the other, most likely that lift pump has a bad check valve. It's internal to the pump so you would need to get a new one. You could also have a leaking injector dropping fuel pressure with the key off.

[@cayminlast]

You always make my day 100% better, when I see a new "Mook" video has been posted, it fills my heart with joy. Thanks for making this old man a very happy fellow. btw, I was a 'mechanic' during my military service 40 years ago.

[@LifeofStrife]

Great video! Happy belated birthday. Something I wanted to mention is about the spark plugs. My truck had a terrible idle (sounded like a big cam and smelled like gas) so yesterday I changed the plugs on my 96 F150 (also a 302). I found that 6 of the 8 plugs only had a gap of .040. The reason I bring this up is because the pre-EFI 302 gap should be .044. My 96 in particular is supposed to be .054. The Motorcraft plugs i bought also came gapped at .044. After adjusting the new plugs and installing them my truck starts better, runs smoother, and idles correctly plus it saved me from buying a IAC. While I don't think that is going to solve your starting problem entirely, it may be something to look into as to what gap your 89 with EFI wants and what the gap was that went it. I fully understand it is a pain to pull them back out though. Fuel pump fixed my issue with a long crank.

[@86VickyLX]

For your extended crank, I would check fuel pressure with a proper gauge you could leave on over night. Pressure should hold for a good while and possibly overnight. If you hit the key to the run position once it should reach about 45 psi. If the pressure leaks down immediately, you may be looking at a hanging open injector. This will cause extended cranks, but I would imagine that it would affect it, every time you tried to start it. If it is affected only by temperature of engine (cold vs hot starts), you could be looking at a faulty ECT sensor. Early 90s fords don't really have much in regards to data stream, a self test could indicate a problem if the sensor is failed in such a way the computer would determine a bad sensor. To verify that that's not your issue, you may need to do resistance or voltage checks on a chart vs temperature to determine if the ECT is functioning properly. Self tests work as well. A cold engine doing a running self test should give you a coolant temp out of self test range code. Code 21 for 2 digit trouble codes or 116 for 3 digit codes. A fully warmed up engine should yield no code for that. My channel has a video on how to do a KOEO/KOER and Cylinder balance test on OBD 1 Fords. Though your truck, being batch fired (4 injectors) are fired simultaneously, would have the capability to run a cylinder balance test. Also while I'm talking about batch fire, and Ford EFI in general. The TFI (Thick Film Ignition) system which is your distributor and module for the ignition system also indicates to the computer where the engine is in its rotation and which injector to fire at any given time. Now, this is calculated assuming that ignition timing is set to 10 degrees before top dead center and that the cylinder 1 spark plug wire is lined up with the 1 marked on the cap. The system uses a hall effect sensor with a trigger wheel which generates a signal to the pcm with evenly spaced gaps except for cylinder 1 which is slightly larger. This larger gap is the signal the ecm uses to determine where exactly the engine is in its rotation. So verifying property base timing and that cylinder 1 spark plug wire is on the #1 marked on the cap will ensure that you're not chasing imaginary issues. Also be sure to disconnect the SPOUT (spark output) connector when checking or adjusting base timing. This is the computer timing control, basically think vacuum advance. The SPOUT connector is the small 2 wire pigtail that is taped up with the ignition module connector.

[@frankm2156]

spot on!

[@robbieclark5938]

Goofiness is hilarious when executed (or edited) properly. Love it!

[@gregbotlin4446]

Isn't that the truth

[@heskeylator]

It's been Mooks birthday? Happy birthday Mook! I demand an international holiday where I get 2 months off work.

[@garageofscrap]

I believe that 2 needs a 1 in front of it. Go for a full 12

[@sykwookiee]

you forgot "with pay"...

[@jimjensen1414]

on most Fords, when you back up, and apply the brakes, it self-adjusts the rear brakes (if they are working correctly)

[@shroom903]

All drum brakes have been doing that since the 50's and 60's

[@solarflare4259]

So nice to have a shop to work on your cars. I need to wait for spring to pull out and rebuild my 351W...Thanks for posting!

[@chrishorst6993]

My 88 5.0 mustang I have to crank on it a lot to get it to start. If your injectors can’t hold pressure to start the engine it will take longer to start. Everything in the fuel system has to be able to hold the pressure upon starting. You changed everything else except the injectors. Mook is so happy with her truck

[@Jon_2218]

You have nice truck there Mook, a few more parts here there, it's a keeper. By the way, Happy Birthday Day 💥 PS, more vids please, major props to you Mook for doing your own vehicle work repairs and replacements. Love your channel.

[@couchnarnia]

"I'm an easily distracted person." In other news, the sky is blue and water is wet. It's part of the fun :-)

[@MidnightTech]

Water is not wet. Water makes things wet, but water is not wet in of itself. Yeah?

[@unchained20000000]

@@MidnightTech Water is liquidic.

[@koriebrown796]

Have you noticed the oil pressure Guage was dropping and going back up. From the view we had it looked really low for that rpm and speeds

[@darrellnewman4102]

Those Ford's have terrible gauges never really accurate.

[@kennedy796]

Fords typically run pretty low oil pressure and honestly that could be some corrosion on the connector

[@darrellnewman4102]

There just a switch and not a true gauge.

[@NeilD163]

Every car guy needs a Mook in his life, she is absolutly delightful.

[@VanHellsing12]

I have a sweet 88 with a 8 foot bed. Glad I stumbled on this channel. Fun to watch!!!

[@n9iui]

Happy birthday Mook! I used to keep an old couch cushion handy for when I had to lay across an engine compartment. Prevents puncture wounds.

[@jyow-xe7pw]

I took my old carpet floor mats, it's not perfect but it works.

[@1212sman]

OK, this is like the best sitcom episode I've seen in a while. It's right up there with the WKRP turkey drop.

[@jimmyz2098]

As God is my Witness...... I thought Turkeys could fly.

[@pi1797]

Best tv series. Oh the horror!

[@BACrites]

"Goodnight, sleep tight, get your shit together" - Mook 2021.

[@Towtrucker9876]

Happy Birthday Mook! Brakes are more important than, acceleration. The suspension works in conjunction with the Brakes to control the truck when you steer. Nicely done Mook! Putting a little blood sweat or tears into any project and not giving up tends to lead to positive results. And You used what you learned from Kevin to try and teach your brother. That is what's all about! 👏 Even though you can't always concentrate, you listened to what you needed to to understand Kevin. Your long crank time may be do to improper commutation between the parts...it is an EFI, and the computer isn't getting the what it needs to function properly.

[@raymondmay196]

Hi Mook. It's perfectly normal for some vehicle's to take a little longer to start than others. You could have 2 exact same vehicles off of the Assembly line, and one with take a second or 2 longer to start. I'm a retired Automotive Tech. With over 35 years behind me. I've worked for Chrysler, Ford, and G.M. And all of them had vehicles like these. There's absolutely nothing wrong with the way your truck starts. Many of my Auto. Tech friends tried to check this out, and spent alot of money, and effort to no avail. Great job on your new truck by the way.☺

[@gamingonabudget1662]

Be sure to clean the IAC “Idle air control valve” on top of the throttle body. Trust me don’t buy aftermarket ones they are hit and miss. Same with your MAP sensor don’t buy aftermarket ones

[@lawnmowermanlawnmowerman9930]

This truck has a BMAP not a MAF sensor

[@gamingonabudget1662]

@@lawnmowermanlawnmowerman9930 you’re absolutely right lol I completely forgot it’s a map sensor not a MAF sensor

[@timrahto658]

"That felt like a 90s Ford. Disappointing, but smooothly disappointing!"

[@lawnmowermanlawnmowerman9930]

That's funny since my 1986 F150 with a 96 Mustang 5.0 HO could easily smoke late model Vortec powered Chevy Silverados back then and topped out at about 135 mph.

[@taundekocollins2059]

Happy Birthday! Sounds like the egr might be hanging open. I'd clean it first before replacing. Also the catalyst may be clogged. Hope this helps!

[@AWC253]

i love the fact that Mook just talks to herself while she works on the EFI

[@colinl9018]

If she answers herself back then we need to worry. 🤣

[@lawnmowermanlawnmowerman9930]

Set your base ignition timing to 10 degrees before top dead center and be sure to remove the spout connector near the distributor before adjusting the timing though.

[@conteryboy2843]

The problem could be delayed fire in distributer or out of time.You also might want to get some octane booster at Walmart paired with a higher grade of fule. GREAT video, Happy Birthday.

[@dave1135]

Happy birthday, mook. If you're still having extended crank, check your fuel pump relay, it should energize the pump for 2 seconds to prime the fuel system. If it's ok, and you're still having low power, check your timing. Those had aluminium timing gears with plastic teeth, and it would break off and the chain could jump time. That would cause a extended crank and low power output

[@douglasjreynolds]

Does it start faster if you cycle the key 3 times, letting the fuel pump cycle off? If so, the fuel system is bleeding off, probably in the fuel pump module.

[@bryceduvall8090]

Or carbon on the backside of the valves, major concern of early fuel injected Fords. We would walnut blast the valves with a special machine at the dealer.

[@douglasjreynolds]

@@bryceduvall8090 easy enough to find out..hit it with ether and see if it fires right way.

[@s.r.sautomotiverepairs8806]

As for your starting issue. Check your pcv hose. (Back of intake passenger side) had the same issue chased fuel and spark issues. Till I went to put a catch can in and found the cracked pcv hose. Best of luck Kevin and mook.

[@ogcowboy9078]

I see the '89 F-150 was a Texas truck once apon a time. I noticed the blue and white inspection sticker in the window, circa 2012-13. Cool beans! Happy Birthday Mook!

[@jusinhelman6011]

Hey Mook! Go through the entire brake system and tires bearings ect. Keep yourself safe and keep up the good work!!

[@christopherhylton8462]

For the extended cranking time, I would check to see how much slack is in the timing chain. It is not difficult to do, it cost nothing to do and it verifies the engine's ability to generate proper cylinder pressures when spinning over at lower RPM's. I would do this especially if this is a high mileage engine.

[@christopherhylton8462]

@@edoneill6701 Hey, it was worth a look... just trying to help here.

[@lawnmowermanlawnmowerman9930]

The BMAP sensor , the throttle position sensor, the ECT and ACT are the main inputs that the computer uses for cold starting until the engine reaches 160 degrees or above

[@albertfarias9120]

Compression test and make sure gapped plugs right and tighten properly . 1st Compression test wet / dry to check valves or ...

[@gayle4804]

Awesome old video job well done to all of you that helped Mook

[@daverichmond2846]

Kevin,..you've got to marry that Mook !! Shes one in a billion,..Youre made for each other. Happy birthday Mookster !

[@woody6750]

I believe the same they are perfect for each other as I and my wife are my number 2 wrench for 35 years

[@daverichmond2846]

Life goes past quickly,..it's rare to be spending it with a girl who's your best friend and wife.

[@LukeTheJoker]

We need an Issac project on the channel now! More content for the viewers!

[@terryfrazier3174]

I have a 78 ford pick up "bought new" so I can't help with yours ... Sorry. I love the show and I think you are very easy on the eyes.So I watch all the time.Keep up the good work.

[@gjurczyc]

I am from MI and to see a F-150 look as good as this truck I am in total shock. I sure hope you folks are putting these incredible trucks on the path to a new life.

[@michaelb.7800]

IAC -Fuel Filter -All O2's -Fuel Press. Regulator -EGR -Fuel Pump Check even though you replaced replaced fuel pump and parts like that because sometimes this sometimes those parts are faulty directly out of Box Just check for specs At minimum

[@cliffordkinnear9705]

The AIT helped a little. I removed the distributor. My friend removed the cast iron drive gear and spacer using a hydraulic press. There are two pins you have to remove prior to taking the gear off and spacer. The truck was starting to cut out electrically. I removed and replaced the pick up coil after disassembling the distributor. The pick up coil can't be removed with the dist. installed in the engine. Now the truck starts a lot faster! Note: the pick up coil is like a crankshaft trigger sensor, except its mounted on the distributor.

[@frjhracing]

late replay. But considering you were in there with the lift pump among other things: Ive had replacement pump units not have the correct internal pressure relief (too low) -that paired with a new fuel pressure regulator means the static pressure is not held when its turned off. So then when you go to start it, it has to rebuild the pressure and then finally run seemingly perfect with no trouble sensors/clogged/broken stuff. Bad Anti drainback valve/check valve would do the same, but with all the consistently bad oem replacement pumps I've gone through - it's usually %80 of the time an internal and non adjustable problem with these lift pumps. Regardless of the car it goes on they seem to all be made by the same unless you go aftermarket like AEM or similar. The two most common internal protection pressures are 3 and 6 bar. If you get the 3 bar, its right on the edge of most efi's fuel pressure settings, so then you get bypass at the pump instead of regulation at the fpr. quickest check is if you turn the key to on and off about 3-6 times before cranking (you should hear the fuel pump prime for a second or so)...if it starts right up, everything I mentioned is where you should start. Another thing is you can see if the fpr is set too high and causing the problem (cracking the internal bypass on the pump). On some lift pump setups, theres an external relief that serves a similar purpose as the internal bypass, and fails the same way. You can hear these failing if you have a low tank of gas and have your own Niagara falls inside your fuel tank....

[@JoeRocket-sf6qs]

I have a 93 I paid 300$ for, I have spent 13,000$ on it so far,it’s an awesome rig .so far it has 35” tires ,2” lift ,rebuilt 302 5.0l forged pistons,msd ignition system,bored .040 over,steel crank,351 Windsor cam ,60mm turbo,cherry bomb exhaust and some more stuff,I friggin love it. Needs paint gonna do it with rock guard I think.😜 Diggs should be jacking that truck and blocking it with you.

[@chuckcafiero4546]

in the 80s I worked for a ford dealer,and repaired many of these. my suggestion is to retro fit a bronze manual tank switcher,if it has 2 tanks,if it only has one,delete the frame mount filter and or filt hsg,(good time to add a delivery pump on frame)but get rid of the factory frame mount filter,housing and or switcher. also look for burnt annealed connections,at the dash electric tank switch and the connector(s)on the tank(s)

[@grumblykitten6813]

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOOK. JUST DISCOVERED YOUR CHANNEL FROM DIGS CHANNEL. EXCITED TO BE HERE.

[@jimvanderlinden7249]

Try turning the key on twice before you start it, because if it starts easier, then your fuel pump is weak. You can adjust your drum brake adjusters by backing up and hitting the brakes, then go ahead and back and forth so the adjuster resets your brakes. By doing this you will not adjust them too tight to drag a brake. I would also check those plastic vacuum lines as we had an brand new one that would go through a set of plugs a year because the line melted a hole in them and would suck outside air in. We found it be cause the dealer never did. It is great to see a girl wrench a truck and teach the boys some thing. My daughter was handy with tools when she went to college and fixed a few things for the boys.