Five Tips For Creating Stunning Aerial Photos from Airplane or Helicopter

[@ColdCoffeePhotography]

Just a quick note to say thankyou for some great advice and tips for someone looking to do a once in lifetime helicopter flight & onlly has that one chance to (hopefully) get some great memories

[@JeffSchultzAlaskaPhotography]

glad you like it

[@JenniferMFan]

Great informational video and presentation style. Thanks Jeff!

[@billdederick4502]

Every shot is a post card photo! Thanks for sharing!

[@TeresaKopec2]

Beautiful photos!

[@tjcuneo]

Great tips and stunning images. Thank you.

[@JeffSchultzAlaskaPhotography]

I'm glad it helped you out and thank you for your kind words about the photos.

[@davidharris4062]

Awesome video, stunning images, especially the aircraft to aircraft shots

[@JeffSchultzAlaskaPhotography]

So glad you like it. Spread the word please. Thanks

[@davidharris4062]

@@JeffSchultzAlaskaPhotography will certainly do that 👍

[@scottbrader-kd9vyy225]

What beautiful images!!!! I like shooting photos just for fun and every once in a great while I get one that really works. Your suggestions will help me improve my photos even when I'm not shooting from the air. Thank you for sharing your amazing talents!

[@JeffSchultzAlaskaPhotography]

thanks scott. glad you liked it.

[@funkyboogiee]

Id like to try this with my Fuji XT4. I'd take two lenses up. 10-24 f/4, and the 50-140 f/2.8 with 1.4x TC. Ideally would book a helicopter tour, not plane.

[@alikweortega]

tell me more about your apparatus.

[@gregfaris6959]

Nice pictures. Interesting comment about exposure bracketing. I do a great deal of aerial photography, from airplanes and helicopters, and have for many years, but I never use bracketing. I do however frequently underexpose by a full stop on sunny days, because of the specular reflections you may get from shiny objects, as well as white roofs. In digital medium, any clipping overexposure cannot be recovered, while shadow detail can, so it's better to try to get the highlights under control. If you shoot negative film, it's the opposite - highlights can be recovered and shadows less so, so it's better to expose for the shadows. One comment at 10:40 - Shooting professional assignments I find clients very often want the full RAW image, so you will not have a chance to correct anything in post. If you don't want to look like a complete buffoon, it is critically important to get your compositions right, and your horizons perfectly horizontal. This can be surprisingly hard to do as you are turning, banking etc. You can use the level in the viewfinder, if your camera has that, to make sure your shots are all straight. Thanks for the nice video.

[@JeffSchultzAlaskaPhotography]

I'm glad you like the video. Yes auto exposure bracketing is especially helpful to get the correct expsoure especailly when you're photographing an Alaska where one second your shooting shooting something bright white (glacier) that needs to be overexposed one stop and the next second I'm shooting something medium gray twhich needs to be in the center and then as you say you're shooting something in bright sunshine that needs to be under expose. This way, no matter what your subject is you have at least one frame that is properly exposed to the right. Yes, you can certainly bring up the shadows. Of course you increase the noise of the image. I'm always trying to get my histogram as far to the right as possible without over exposing the highlights. Thanks for your comments.