Fix/Repair Fuel Pump on Carburetor on a Sears Tractor (GT-18 or Suburban) Onan 18 HP or 16 HP Engine

[@carl4323]

Thank you for the suggestion concerning the reed valves. Correcting them solved the running problem. I would note that the blank port nipple is a fuel pressure tap.

[@barcodequality]

Thanks for the comment! I am always happy when someone learns something and benefits from the videos I post on KZbin. I personally have gained so much by watching other users' videos, that I enjoy giving back when I have a chance to be helpful.

[@adnannassan9008]

Hello , it is very good video to watch, Where I can bay a carburetor like yours exactly for my Onan B48M? Thank you so much if answer my question. Greetings

[@HucksterFoot]

I reeds on the kit I ordered have excessive amount of rubber sticking out. I would use the original one, but the reeds are gone.

[@coyotetracker1231]

I'm rebuilding a DD13 carb soon. Do you have a video of a complete rebuild, or any hints and advice? Thanks, Eric

[@billconserva1461]

Onan D-11, D-13 and D-15 carbs are the same rebuild kit My question is, did you adjust all the reeds or just that particular one?

[@barcodequality]

I only tweak/adjust the ones that appeared too far from the seal surface. On this one, I am pretty sure I did do both on one surface/side.

[@jake8556]

I have a carb but no fuel pump parts what-so-ever. Know of anywhere I could get parts?

[@barcodequality]

Some people have rigged a low pressure 12 volt fuel pump to eliminate the vacuum actuated one that is standard with Onan engines. I have used this approach on a temporary basis. It works. Just be sure pump is a Low Pressure model.

[@Willgtl]

@@barcodequality, late to the party but that's exactly what I did with my Sears 18/6 when the pulse pump stopped working. Simply mounted the electric pump on the inside of the frame below the sector gear and brake rod, spliced the power for the pump into the power wire for the rear light (So that it's only on when the key is on) and the negative grounded to the frame via the same bolt that I used to mount the pump. Worked great. But if I did it again, I would wire the pump to a switch.

[@barcodequality]

Brain dumping here. Typically, assuming there is good fuel flow, that is symptomatic of a carburetor adjustment, a port blockage or a seal (gasket) issue (allowing air into carb). If you haven't been through the carb 4 times, like me usually, then gremlins (technical term, of course) are still in there. Perhaps take another close look and make sure gaskets and metal mating surfaces are clean (not corroded), or if rubberized or gasket material, are pliable. I know the metals of some of those old carbs just corrodes and rot away after 30 years, so take a close look! Where I live, in the midwest USA, I have seen corrosion of the carb mating surfaces. What is the elevation in your area? High elevations can be a challenge. Fuel: I always use the highest best most premium grade of gasoline I can find, and store it in a clean can, fill a clean fuel tank, with good fuel lines and connect to tractor engine, and wire it temporarily to the steering wheel. I have a 1 pint sized fuel tank I often use to "debug" fuel issues in lawn tractors. By moving the fuel supply above the engine, the fuel pump and flow possible problem can be eliminated. If engine runs better with the small tank attached, the problem is identified ( fuel flow from tank through pump). If this is the problem, make sure the hose from engine to fuel pump is tightly affixed... you can detach it momentarily with engine running to check for pulsating vacuum suction.