Fixed - Samsung Washer nd Code - No Drain - Pump Relay was the Issue!!!

[@QQLESSN00B]

I am a 18 year experienced appliance technician and I was extremely impressed with your board diagnosis , I usually replace these once pump does not get the voltage and this just opened a whole new level of affordable repairs for some people I run into that can’t afford a new board , you are a professional in my book

[@eugeneg.6089]

This was an AWESOME find, and truly proved to be a blessing to me in my washer drain issues. Fixed the problem without having to replace the relay - don’t like soldering at all. I cleaned the contacts (Took two attempts - may have put the relay cap back on too tight the first time). Many thanks.

[@ericernst5483]

This is a great idea. This was not the source of my problem, but might have been a contributing factor. I tired this and ran 220 grit sandpaper on both contacts~75-100 times each. I put it back in and, I still had a problem. I took the cover off and watched the solenoid's movement (Unlike this one, mine is on the back, inside wall of the unit. Pretty simple to remove. 2 screws and slid the panel toward the center of the washer and it popped out). After watching it try to contact a couple of times, but failing, I decided to help it inorder to keep the wash cycle running. Then it dawned on me. I pushed the stationary contact toward the moving contact a little with a toothpick and it made contact. At this point I could here the pump running instead of pushing on the moving contact. So I folded over a small strip of paper to make 4 layers and the wash cycle completed without my intervention. I think what happens here is either the stationary contact is deflected just slightly out of reach over time (in my case it was 13 years) or the moving switch just doesn't have the force anymore. Just deflecting it back made it run good as new. I still intend to install a new relay.

[@waldoperez7654]

Almost purchased a new washer... Tried it as a last resort and it did work... Will fix tomorrow and will try to find a cover to not let the relay open since I broke it... Thanks again...

[@chebumafu]

U sir are a genius. Thanks time a million! At one point we talked about getting a new washer/dryer, but I've fixed this one so many times that it's not that bad to fix. If we buy new ones, then it gets harder dYI fix. I would much rather keep these ones. Thanks again!

[@kmathieson3987]

Yeah I couldn’t throw it out either. I like the washer and would have had a hard time getting a matching one…. Glad you fixed yours too!

[@kaptain02]

Thanks for sharing this, I used this for troubleshooting my 13 year old samsung washer. The relay was not the culprit in my case. After extensive troubleshooting it ended up being the rubber check valve on the drain pump housing causing the problem. What was happening was that the check valve was getting stuck inside the housing, and between that and the weight of the water in the drain line (I drain vertically), the pump did not have enough power to push open the check valve (this was a new pump too). What I speculate, was that over the many years the rubber swelled up just enough to cause a very tight fit in the housing. I took a dremel with a stone grinding bit and carefully ground it down until it fit properly back in the housing. Been working perfectly since then.

[@timguy161]

Thanks for sharing.

[@michaela3965]

Nice job on this, you got me pretty far along, but I completed my repair another way. Drain pump was replaced, same with rubber check leaving the pump. Still not draining and I paid for 2 appliance repair guys- I was looking for someone that actually knew how to use the diagnostics and quick test. Both suggested new board. Only, the new board was no longer available. I seemed to have an odd board with 9 relays, wiring diagram very hard to find. So back to the board. My board was not labeled correctly, but I was able to narrow the relays to no 1 and 5 , I tracked the wires to these relays from 10 pin 2 middle pins to the relays. The relays are 3 dollars. Tried to fix no 5 your way but it did not work. so the plan was to replace no 1 and 5 relay. Circuit board companies are all around but none wanted to work with the silicone and plastic. I am not very good at detailed board work, but i knew I could cut the plastic with a dremel to access the relays. So I cut the back out and exposed the relay section, pretty easy to do, gave it a local board guy and repaired it for 122.00 . He carefully cut through the silicone and replaced no 1 and 5. I put the board back in (taped in the cut plastic pieces), 20 washes later it's all good. Like Mathieson, I could not fail in this repair the machine were otherwise great. 15 years old but like new. My suggestion is this: repair the pump, and look over the rubber check valve, if its still not draining then go the relay board, simply cut out the back and give it to local board guy to fix. Also I finally found out how to access the Quick Test: what a task, they seem to change this over the models , Mine was a WF448 series: Press: Soil, Signal, Power same time with power OFF. I think I turned the Jog dial counter clockwise . Press Spin to test door lock, Press Temp to go through the water cycles, press soil level to test Circulation/Drain Pump. In my case the repair guys said each pump will be tested by pressing the Soil Level button. The first worked this was the circulation pump, but the second was silent - nothing. After the board repair, I tried Quick Test again and sure enough the second time I pressed the Soil Level- the drain pumped worked , so I figured the washer was fixed, which it was. The last test press Signal to test water/Steam Heater FYI.

[@timguy161]

Thanks for sharing. The relay has a lifespan of 100,000 cycles. Each wash uses quite a few cycles. This means the relay reaches its lifespan in just a few years for a typical family. If polishing does not revive the relay, I suggest you strip the relay to the bare 4 pins. Solder 4 wires to extend the pins for connection with a new relay. Any good relay (12V DC/120V AC, normally open) will do. Insulate and encase with silicone glue well because of 120V.

[@Joeri0720]

Best advise and video on KZbin yet!!!

[@c0mpsc1]

Thanks for the video I had the same problem. In my case sanding the contacts did not help, but I noticed that they were slightly too far apart to make contact. so I pushed them a little bit closer together with a screwdriver and then after a power was restored they were able to touch again. I.e. I just needed to bring the two contacts closer together so when the relay goes ON then the distance is not too far apart for them to connect. For anyone trying to fix their washer. You can test your pump by hooking it up to 120v AC if you're comfortable with electrical work. In my case, I bought a new pump on Amazon, but it wasn't the issue. The old pump was fine. Thank goodness that I found this video to fix the issue.

[@pamiparocks]

That’s awesome!! Thanks for taking the extra time to explain All the other things you already tried too!!

[@rogerkircher]

I'm impressed with your determination 😄

[@MisterrrMean]

Thank you so much for this!! I changed my pump as well and it still did not work. This vid popped up on my reccomend and I'm glad it did. You saved a lot of people a lot of money! We appreciate it!!

[@smkie-hf9pz]

How did you get the lid off? Of the little relay? Do you need a special small screwdriver? Or just razor it off?

[@edmundallaire2704]

Best Video of the year! Thank you so much! Worked exactly like you showed. Had to get inside that relay real good! Thank you! Thank you!

[@Scott-zc3iy]

Great trick! I have replaced relays on my dryer and washer before for other reasons. But this is the 1st time I have seen someone go into the relay and repair it! Great job. Although you definitely need to work on your trouble shooting skills and stop just shotgun'in parts at it and actually diagnose the problem... ie test voltage or continuity to the pump and at the pump in the 1st place and you would have found the fix quicker. Anyways great job and thanks. ;)

[@alexu1981]

My washing machine had the same problem, I changed the pump and nothing until I found your video and it helped me a lot. Thank you, you are a professional.

[@kmathieson3987]

Glad it worked for you!!! I am no professional but just couldn’t give up on it… 😊

[@victorgames7213]

You fucking rock and roll , just fixed mine by uncapping the 5th relay sandpapered it and contact cleaner. She is alive

[@kmathieson3987]

That’s awesome!!

[@geogaletti]

Thanks a bunch! This was my issue. Remains to be seen how well I cleaned the contacts

[@keithhamblin7992]

Thank you so much for your video that's exactly what was wrong with my sister's washing machine same year as yours. Thanks a million

[@turnerhooch5894]

Awesome thanks for sharing Great information I am 90 percent sure this will solve my issue

[@majorleaguetv956]

You got a new machine now

[@johnwardell9530]

It was the relay! Thanks a lot buddy!

[@marcuspatrick1483]

❤🎉 thanks you so much. This fixed mine right up

[@johnseymour3481]

Worked like a charm. Thank you so much for sharing!

[@pleasures89]

Thank you so much sir - this fixed my problem. God bless

[@paullevering5893]

Thanks. I had the same issue with the relay. Used fine grit sandpaper (800) and also used contact cleaner spray. The cap on the relay broke into pieces as I tried to remove it though… at least it is temporary fixed.

[@richardmcclure6877]

This worked for me but I'm going to go ahead and replace the relay. Those contacts are coated with something like a silver plating and they will stop conducting soon if you sanded that off the contact surfaces.

[@r2theicky92]

I think this is what is going on with my unit, but after spending two whole days prior to seeing this video, I just purchased a new washer with the one I have being 13 years old

[@phamdoanh1]

I changed the drain pump, it didn’t help. Although water is pumped out, the error “No draining” still persists. My Samsung model WF448aap doesn’t have the board with the relays shown in your video therefore I replaced all two boards dc92-00130A and dc92-00125a. Drum is vacated of water but the error ND is still persisting. Any idea what else to look at? Thanks!

[@travelbro9930]

Hey did you ever figure it out for that model? Same problem

[@chuongpham4642]

After I changed the control board the error was still persiting for a while then suddenly no more, I don't know the reason why, Sorry for being unable to tell why it was this way.

[@travelbro9930]

@@chuongpham4642 thanks my Viet brother. I actually found out that there are 2 sets of boards on this machine. There is one in the back of machine on top. White plastic cover. Can’t miss it just in case someone else needs this info

[@TheLchau]

Thanks for the video, I was going to replace the relay. This is alot easier. I'm just wondering if this fix will last awhile like a year or more. It's been more than a year now, is the relay still working?

[@kmathieson3987]

Hi , Yes it is still working totally fine more than a year later. Have not had an issue since. Hope it works well for you also.

[@kmathieson3987]

Yes mine is still working perfectly more than a year later. No issue since.

[@debbieburgos5604]

Thanks so much.

[@ericm1981]

I hear humming, clicking, and repeats several times and still nothing happens until it finally throws a Drain Error code. I’ve confirmed the pump is fine. Already replaced the pressure sensor. Do you think this fits the criteria for a relay issue?

[@kmathieson3987]

Not totally sure but mine would start spinning and then start shaking since there was still too much water left in the drum and would stop spinning and set the code and the play the error beeping sound. It is probably worth a try if you know your pump is fine. You could also check for voltage at the pump when it is supposed to be emptying out the water. If no voltage I would think this is the problem.

[@kmathieson3987]

That’s great news. Glad it worked!

[@toddsmith1709]

Worked for me. Only relay cover didn’t come off cleanly (broke), so relay current left open.

[@timguy161]

Cover it because of 110V AC for the pump. The control side uses 12V DC.

[@smkie-hf9pz]

How did you get the lid off? Of that little relay?

[@smkie-hf9pz]

Update: I cut off the lid with a razor. I cut them all off because I had no marking saying pump. Found it. It was super black compared to the other ones. I didn't have sandpaper so I just used some rubbing alcohol and a supermarket twist tie to scrape off some of the black buildup. Works like new now.

[@kmathieson3987]

You should be able to that in the video.i used a sharp utility knife and gradually cut the top off.

[@smkie-hf9pz]

@@kmathieson3987 it worked. Thanks so much for this video. I cleaned the crap out of all of them and the 2014 machine is running very well.

[@dendendendennnn]

May I ask how you got the cover of the relay off to get to the contacts?

[@kmathieson3987]

Hi, I use that orange knife to just cut into three sides of the relay and then lifted it off. You should be able to see that in the video.

[@dendendendennnn]

@@kmathieson3987 LOL I was skipping around the video didn't see it the first time. Watched it the second time and found it but forgot to delete the question. Thanks for replying!

[@dangit123456]

When this happens, do you still hear the relay clicking? Because when I put the washer into the drain test mode, I hear it click, but the pump itself doesn’t turn on.

[@timguy161]

That means bad contact. Use this video's solution may work.

[@ToddEdmondson]

I am about 40% down the brain damage rabbit hole. My AST 3 Kenmore Elite (Samsung) front load washer started with no drain. Checked all water lines, water level sensor, pulled old pump and tested that (it spun but didn't smell great when pulled"snapped" impeller off. So ordered new one from AMZ and re-tested. back now water full and won't drain, and what I suspected all along. It's not sending 120V to the motor. So, I saw your site and my PCB isn't behind the front panel, it's in the back top right, so removed the 2 screws to get the white box moving, and used fingers to snap it open. I have 9 relays on my board and the resistors are under the clear protective layer. I don't see anything burnt or brown. the technician guide says to test for 120V on pin3 o CN2 and pin3 of CN3. I am starting to feel like Mark Watney (the Matt Damon character) in the martian when told what to do to get back to earth. I have learned so much about washing machines and was hoping the exact knife trick on the relay would be it, but now I am not sure. I'll likey buy a new washer and take this thing to a shooting range if I don't get it soon.

[@kmathieson3987]

Lol, that’s funny. Same here I knew very little about washer before I have to tear this thing apart 5 times before figuring it out. Yeah I would think that if you have no voltage going to your pump. ( can probably check it right at the pump) then the relay is probably bad because that is where the voltage supply comes directly from. I figured I had nothing to loose so I tried opening up the relay like I have done on the past. If you have to info to test for voltage out the output of the relay and can get to it that is great too.

[@gregbgregb8487]

Damn you basically rebuilt the washer

[@kmathieson3987]

Yeah it should last a long time… there isn’t too much left to replace…

[@orelco5221]

I replaced the washer and still the same issue how you got to the bearing from ND error.

[@kmathieson3987]

I believe that you are asking why I replaced the bearing as well based on the fact there was an ND code? If so, the reason I replaced the bearing (before I figured out the issue was the pump relay) was because the spinning “drum” was shaking a lot when it was spinning and I thought maybe the bearings were wore out. It turns out that reason it was shaking so much was because the water was not all being pumped out and it caused it to be really out of balance.