Fixing a Ford Tractor PTO Leak

[@Mikeattempts]

PTO Rebuild Kit (bearing, seal, gasket, & sleeve): amzn.to/4aytaxS (affiliate*) PTO Oil Seal (metal D9NN703BB): amzn.to/3IZlgSj (affiliate*) Bearing & Seal Driver Set: amzn.to/3PJgmgg (affiliate*) *Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!

[@Chris-ec9lc]

it is funny watching these videos with all the cutting and pressing, and then I go to my local repair shop where a 93 old is still running the place and fixing tractors, and he will just whack the whole shaft on the concrete (straight up and down) and the whole end of the pto will just pop right off. Then you can just remove the rings and tap out and replace whatever you are replacing. Replacing the seal, just tap it out from behind and tap one back in. I guess a press is nice to have but not needed, i have always just done them with a large socket.

[@Mikeattempts]

Yeah, I was trying to avoid excessive beating on the shaft (zing) because I didn't want to deform or mushroom the end. I would have gone that route if that was my only option, but I already had the press so why not make my life easier? :) This was also the first time I had done anything like this, so I was learning along the way.

[@cutnrun95]

Lots of damage on splines of 1 1/8 “ pto shaft, I would have replaced with a 1 3/8” pto shaft. Great video.

[@Mikeattempts]

Thanks! Trust me, I strongly considered buying a 1 3/8" PTO shaft assembly that came with everything I needed. It was fully assembled too, just unbolt the old one and slide in the new one. I ultimately decided against it for two reasons: #1, I only have one attachment (a brush mower) that uses the PTO and #2, That wouldn't have made for a very interesting video. :)

[@cutnrun95]

@@Mikeattempts That would have made a quick dull video and a aftermarket would probably be poorer quality than the original. Enjoying your videos !

[@Mikeattempts]

@@cutnrun95 I'm happy to hear it, thanks for subscribing! :)

[@Anderware]

I wouldn't blame your dad for the sludge in that rear housing. Mine was every bit as bad as that, and I change the fluids religiously. I think once very contaminated it is hard to get rid of that stuff without either removing the PTO or removing one of the axle housings.

[@Mikeattempts]

It makes me feel better knowing I'm not the only one with sludge like that in the rear diff housing. :) Yeah, I guess my dad could have changed the fluid and, by the time I decided to do it, the sludge had settled over the drain hole again. I'm just glad it's all out of there now.

[@Anderware]

@@Mikeattempts Mine was abused when I bought it a few years ago (its an 860 also) and I initially thought there was nothing at all in the diff housing since nothing came out the drain. Had to unplug with a screwdriver to get it to flow, and then it was mostly water. I've changed the oil a few times since and it still comes out looking like split pea soup, but gets a little better each time. The right way is to open it up and irrigate it with diesel or something similar. Thankfully these things are built like tanks, my gears still look phenomenal despite being lubricated with rainwater for decades. The previous owner admitted she had never changed the engine oil and she'd had it for 20 years...

[@Mikeattempts]

@@Anderware Never changed the engine oil in 20 years?!? That's crazy! The first time I tried to drain the rear differential fluid was exactly the same but luckily mine never had any water in it.

[@mshaw290808mi]

Very well explained, thank you!

[@Mikeattempts]

I appreciate it, thanks for the comment! :)

[@benkanobe7500]

Thank you for the links!!!

[@Mikeattempts]

No problem! :)

[@pyrodork]

Shouldn’t the seal be installed from the back; to prevent the threads for the cover from cutting the outer edge of the new seal, and then the ring installed? Then it could be driven from the front to snug it up against the ring if need be. I bought the whole shaft replacement kit pre-built and the seal leaks.

[@Mikeattempts]

The threads are recessed so the new seal doesn't even touch them when being installed. That sucks your pre-built shaft kit is leaking!

[@pyrodork]

@@MikeattemptsThanks! I found that out last night when I replaced the seal on mine. After knocking out the shaft, the bearing wouldn’t come out of the hub. I ended up pounding the seal through the front and replaced it the same way. No leaks noted as of yet!

[@Mikeattempts]

@@pyrodork Nice, I'm glad it worked out!

[@benkanobe7500]

Was the PTO lever in the engaged or disengaged position when R&R the PTO shaft assembly?

[@Mikeattempts]

The PTO was disengaged.

[@benkanobe7500]

What type of oil did you fill the differential with? Can I feel comfortable on my NAA that I can drain just the differential like you did and it will not drain the hydraulics? I have to do the exact same thing you did?

[@Mikeattempts]

I use universal transmission / hydraulic fluid that you can get at Tractor Supply or Rural King. I can't guarantee but I'm pretty sure the NAA has a separate sumps for the transmission, hydraulics, and rear differential. So, you should be able to just drain the differential. Just make sure you don't mistake the hydraulic drain plug for the rear diff plug.

[@Anderware]

The original service manual for these machines specified different weight oils for each compartment...but everybody these days just uses universal trans/hydro for them all which is easier and works perfectly. Plus, these old machines often leak across the seals separating compartments so they tend to all mix anyway.

[@TaylorBarrett-d3p]

Would the permatex super high tacky work just as good as the aviation sealant?

[@Mikeattempts]

I actually don't think any sealant is required, the gasket should be sufficient. Some people just use grease on the gasket but if you did want to use a sealant, pretty much anything should be fine as long as it'll hold up to oil.

[@TaylorBarrett-d3p]

@@Mikeattempts u bet. I tried reinstalling shaft with just the gasket alone and still leaked fluid. Put on new gasket with some high tack. Will let sit for 24 hours “fingers crossed” lol

[@Mikeattempts]

@@TaylorBarrett-d3p I'm sure you'll be good with the high tack but now I'm curious so let me know how it goes.

[@Failure_Is_An_Option]

@@TaylorBarrett-d3p Permatex The Right Stuff if the gasket is not pulling double duty as a shim (which it is not for this instance). Don't come looking for me when you have to take it apart.

[@ProtonOne11]

I don't understand why you would freeze a rubber gasket before pushing it into the housing. I would have warmed up the housing and seal to make the plasic softer and more pliable, so it could slide in easier and not get damaged. Some plastics actually expand when cooled, as the polymers can behave very different than a metal, but i don't know what exactly that rubber seal was made of. I get the concept of thermal expansion for seating metal on metal stuff, but i've never used it for plastics to metal fittings.

[@Mikeattempts]

I explained my reasoning in the video. Also, I think firmer rubber would be less likely to rip/tear/peel than softer rubber. If I wouldn't have forgotten to use the metal disc when pressing it in, it might have been ok. I'm glad it worked out that way though because I never wanted to use a rubber coated seal to begin with. The metal one is working great, still no leaks.

[@rbtgmnstcs]

There's no need for cooling seals and might just cause problems. I've never seen any mechanic doing that. The metal body seal has a thin layer of sealing compound that is supposed to fill up irregularities. If it gets cooled down, that layer might just peel off the metal body against the surrounding metal, and not get squeezed in as it should. As someone wrote, maybe you should had the PTO shaft replaced, but it can be easier said than done. However, to remove the sleeve(s) and bearing much easier, without risking damaging the shaft, I would have heat treated the sleeves and sprayed them with penetrating oil, just to get some lubrication. Then use the mass of the whole shaft to "slide-hammer" the sleeves and bearings off. Just weld two "slabs" of iron together as a V and place them onto something firm with a big mass (unless you have any other good possibilities.. the bench vise will probably break). Then just start hammering it out. I hope you take my comment as an advise and not negative criticism. I'll be watching your vids! Take care!

[@Mikeattempts]

@@rbtgmnstcs You're right, it's not required to freeze metal pieces before pressing them into other metal pieces, but it usually helps a lot. I did it with my Honda wheel bearing in a previous video and it made installation much easier than removal. I did find a whole PTO shaft replacement kit with everything already installed, just remove on and bolt in new. However, that wouldn't have made for an interesting video. :)