Flawless Walls: Hanging Wallrock Ultracover Like a Pro!

[@Da-Paperer]

"..210 is the key number...The wallrock fibreliner smooth, that was a 150, that's all to do with the grade, the thickness of the paper" No it isn't, the numbers 210 and 150 has nothing to do with the thickness of the paper. It's the weight of the paper given as grams per square metre, GSM (Grammage) which is the metric standard of paperweight. The weight of Ultracover fibreliner is 210gsm. The weight of fibreliner smooth is 150gsm The thickness of Ultracover fibreliner 210 is 0.48mm. The thickness of fibreliner 150 smooth is 0.278mm(say 0.30mm).

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

is the 210 thicker than the 150 - yes explaining it to someone to make it easy to understand..... 210 wallrock is thicker than the 150.

[@Da-Paperer]

​@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorTrying to explain something you yourself clearly don't understand. Is Fibreliner original 150 the same thickness as Fibreliner smooth 150, by your reckoning above they would be the same thickness but they aren't. Fibreliner 150 original is 0.325mm thick, Fibreliner smooth is 0.278mm thick although they are the same weight at 150gsm. The given number is the weight which may or may not be indicative of the thickness.

[@Lloyd1885]

My take on this whole GSM thing is a bit of a misnomer, as a square metre of lining does not weigh anywhere near the grade stated...also 210 grade non woven implies that it weighs nearly 3 times more than a roll of standard pulp lining paper. Non woven is much lighter even though some of it is thicker. In the decorating trade we consider 800 thinner than 1000 grade, 1000 thinner than 1200 and so on. I have been told on a couple of occasions that weights should largely be ignored. It's also worth noting that thicker papers can also become thinner during the manufacturing process when they are calendered etc Out of interest, and because I'm a bit of a decorating saddo🙄....anyone know how paper was graded before metrication?....was it OSY (ounces per square yard)

[@AlastrionaS]

@@Da-Paperer The higher the GSM, the thicker the paper. Exactly what Phil said. He was not comparing the thickness of equal weights of paper.

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

oooh, that would make a good video and add in the 180 wallrock to the mix. That will blow your mind what they say the thickness is of that lol

[@stuartibbotson7179]

Wallrock I love it

[@staffh3815]

Phil you ever tried wetting the back makes it much more pliable like some muraspecs,so much easier

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

no, sounds a faff

[@JoeProDecor]

The only time the seams may open up in places with the non woven papers is if the surface is not even. Unlike standard papers, these non woven papers will straighten back up as they dry(not shrinkage)....they just don't stay stretched out like a standard liner might do. The only thing I question with this new thicker one , is the intended purpose because I would find it really difficult to apply any paper on a surface that is rough. I would be interested to see if this thicker gear would completely disguise paint mapping? If it dies? Then that would be the perfect situation to use it

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

have you tried Brewers Reinforced lining paper? If so, why does that pull back. If not, please try it and tell me why it pulls back after hanging with butt joints, that when dry you get a even opened up seam. Interestingly WallRock Smooth.. that stays where it is.

[@Lloyd1885]

@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I've had the same problem with that...its fairly easily fixed with some lightweight filler, but I was suprised it happened, maybe its down to the thickness?, its a fair bit thinner than wallrock, but still does a great job

[@NigelFletcher-x8q]

Great content Phil. Cross lining was meant to reduce shrinkage of the finish wall covering as it’s expanding in opposing directions .

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

You'd think so. But it's an urban myth, as I've hung the same make lining (PtW) in a room virtually, and another room, all crosslined... Then papered over with the same make of finish wallpaper. Guess th results ;) Both finish papers (PTW)

[@NigelFletcher-x8q]

Totally agree 👍

[@guyrosin19]

Did you have the heating on while it was drying? Than can cause the paper to shrink can’t it?

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

nope. It's suppose to be a stable product.. neither expands or contracts... but clearly this does pull back.

[@chez6953]

Great video again 👍, with the gap, on shops, especially with lumpy taped walls, we would seal and thenput a very fine fill before painting. We also filled the edge, if we stopped on a wall to feather it out and hide them. I no longer work on many shops but that is where I learned to fiberline

[@chez6953]

So far...😂

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

Thing is. The word is butt joint. There shouldn't be a gap and shouldn't need filling. A slight gap doesn't matter if wallpapering over but painting... A fine filler is then going to give a different texture to the surface compared to the texture of the lining. :( then it needs priming and more often it still shows once painted.

[@chez6953]

​​@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator that is true, shops were not really to the same standard as the domestic we work on. I usually have longer time to perfect the joints to be honest these days. Always learning

[@Da-Paperer]

​@ProfessionalPainterDecorator butt seams. Paperhangers and decorators use seam rollers to roll their seams, not joint rollers. Joints are for carpenters, and people who puff on a certain type of substance use joint rollers to finesse their doobies.👍

[@chez6953]

​@@Da-Paperer seam roller, yeah I use one , I don't smoke Doobies these days though.

[@robevans8625]

Would this be better than the roll on plaster you showed the other day?

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

For what?

[@neil30264]

Thought you said Wickes tub paste was the best?

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

Catch up.... I've mentioned in other videos it's changed and altered.... I think it was the papering videos from this time last year. Others also have mentioned to me as well they think it's altered.

[@neil30264]

@ProfessionalPainterDecorator tbh I use wickes after your recommendation and thought it was like piss, pardon my French 🤣

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

@@neil30264 yep, that's what I found.. some were fine, others were very thin, I thought'd lid thinned it down for a size. So I've swapped to Brewers Yellow Top. It also is suitable for 99% of papers.

[@noslrak2000]

Just a question... Why would one choose to use lining paper before painting instead of using latest rollable and sandable wall skims?

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

Depends on time and how bad a wall is. If lining you can get away with less prep as long as the wall is sanded.

[@ashleytofte1385]

It’s amazing how many don’t seem to watch vides before leaving a clever comment.🤷‍♂️

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

I know, tell me about it

[@markwilliamson7846]

Any particular reason why you don’t use the wider rolls. If your wall is 3m wide you would only have 3 drops as apposed to six with the narrower rolls

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

not really, storing it and handling it more than anything. I do use 1m wide wallrock when needed though

[@markwilliamson7846]

@ right. The storing and handling ring a bell with me. I do find it difficult to hang due to its length but I trade it off with time saved.

[@0skar9193]

I use the 75cm rolls. Best of both worlds. However I do use the 55 & 100cm widths.

[@Sterayb]

should do it diagonal if that stretches when wet from the top paper you run the risk of opening up the joint id never use use paste the wall without putting paste on the paper as well

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

why will it stretch.. its a stable product.

[@Da-Paperer]

​@ProfessionalPainterDecorator It's not a stable product, no non woven is 100% stable.

[@darrenhirst4522]

As it got any thermal qualitys

[@Lloyd1885]

@@darrenhirst4522 even ordinary lining has probably got a tiny tiny bit, so I'd say yes, but it would be really nominal, and probably wouldn't make much difference

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

Lining a wall always add a bit of insultion to the surface. There are other videos I've done on Thermal Graphite lining though which does help slightly on cold walls

[@robster8444]

Never had a pullback with the recommended Wallrock adhesive to be fair.

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

have you used this wallrock yet? You saw my last WallRock Smooth video the other week.. no issues with that... using Brewers paste.

[@martinmoore7074]

If wallpaper is going on top of the lining paper why is the lining not crosslined ?

[@robster8444]

As Phil mentioned, the joins will not be lining up, however I do believe that cross lining would be superior.

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

you don't need to cross line if you know what you're doing with wallpaper... I've covered thi son loads of videos now.

[@Lloyd1885]

I know where you are coming from, but if it was a feature wall I'd either start at the opposite end to where I'd planned to start the finish paper, or if I had to start in the middle or centre the pattern I'd plan the drops first so the seams didn't overlap. That said, its horses for courses really...crosslining may better or more convenient in some scenarios, vertical lining in others. One thing to be mindful of though is lining paper is now being produced in 530/535 widths by most manufacturers, as opposed to 560. I think they must be in league with the makers of wagon wheels 😡

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

@@Lloyd1885 the finish paper is only 490 wide :D

[@Lloyd1885]

@ProfessionalPainterDecorator is it from Temu or Wish? 😏

[@Sterayb]

should cross line it

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

it makes no difference. I've tried it. two rooms, same lining, same paste, same size.. same finish paper make. one crossed lined.. the other vertical. same results.

[@Da-Paperer]

"now I'm going to put it out there I'm going to ask the question nonwoven paste the wallpapers do you notice a slight pullback shrink back when you're using them this is to all the professional decorators" Not a "professional decorator" just a paperhanger but no, no pullback here when using non wovens either pasting the wall or pasting the paper. Non wovens are marketed to homeowners as dimensionally stable, faster and easier to hang, no pasting table or paperhanger required but that's all clever marketing to sell more paper to more homeowners and little or none of it is true but if you buy into the marketing speil then your going to have shrinkback at the seams. Haven't you noticed the same manufacturers who recommend painting dark background stripes at the seams in case of shrinkage are the same manufacturers who market their non woven-paste the wall - wallpapers and liners as dimensionally stable, blah blah blah. Both can't be true, if it's dimensionally stable as they claim it won't shrink. If its not you have been conned into paying a premium price for a product that doesn't (and more importantly) can't be dimensionally stable, as in 0% shrinkage. As a problem solving liner Wallrock is an exceptionally good product, its not perfect but when it's necessary it's the one I go for. If i don't have a problem surface Pulp is king and its my go too liner for many reasons. YMMV and that's ok too.

[@Lloyd1885]

The brewers one is a good cheaper alternative, but in my experience it 'seams' to pull back quite a lot more than wall rock for some reason, it caught me out the first time, but now I adjust how I work and deal with it. I really try to avoid the painting stripes down the wall as a lot of non woven finish papers are pretty thin, and there's a fair chance that the stripes will show through a finish paper....a risk I'm not prepared to take..... I'm old enough to remember novamura and what used to happen with that 😩

[@Da-Paperer]

@Lloyd1885 I stick to the WR when I need an NW tbh as I have it mastered, so no sneaky surprises in store. As I said, if I have a problem surface, I will use a NW, if I haven't, I won't, and I will work away with a pulp liner. Same with Zinsser Gardz. It's a problem surface seale, so if I come across a problem surfac, I will gladly break out the Gardz otherwise I won't and I will go with an alternative. I suppose its down to being pragmatic about what products to use, where to use them, and when. Love the word play on "seams"👍 Same here, caught out once with WR, fool me once and all that so won't be caught out a second time, like yourself I adapted to suit so no Cyndi Lauper time after time for me either.

[@joeroberts4690]

I like the channel for some reason but jeez that was a hard watch. It's cringe, the cringe smile, the cringe talking to us from less than a foot away. The waffle OMG. Re the question about non woven, best not after you've said many times to butt join! Just doing sons fibreliner tomorrow...again your waffling

[@ProfessionalPainterDecorator]

You've lost me. Do you find the non woven pull back or not?

[@peterfido8735]

If it's all waffle and cringe why not just skip the video and find something else to view 🤔