Ford 4.0 OHV Top end rebuild

[@Rumblecloud]

Interesting to note that a four year old vid is still getting views and good reactions -- mine included. Your video is very helpful. Cleared up a nagging question concerning the lower intake manifold. I'm a rookie rebuilding my 4.0 OHV. My lower intake gasket was one piece. Fel-Pro kit included the newer two-piece. Spent the better part of the day looking for answers. Your vid confirmed what I had found in my search. So thanks, four years later.:)

[@ДмитрийФакухин]

First of all, nice video! I rebuilds that damn ticking 4.0 engines so many times, and I can say that pushrod wear issues fixes real easy. They have not enough oil feeding, because pressure oiled only bore of rocker arm, oil not pass to pushrod cup. Drill one more 1-1.5mm lube hole to shaft, for every rocker arm, that will intersect with oil passage in rocker arm when the valve is open, and problem solved. Rocker shaft is not very hard, so drills easy. But much better add also hi-volume oil pump (Melling 328) and new non-Chinese lifters (Melling or Sealed Power). Yeah, it's a lot of money (Pump costs 143.79, 28.79 costs new stressproof shaft, and 393.48 for lifters at Rockauto), but if you want good result for rebuild - better to do it. Oh, and I made tool for pre-oiling 4.0 OHV from old oil pump gear and 1/2 socket. Drive it with hand drill or equal tool (no impact wrenches, of course), and first start will go less stressful for engine. Sorry for my English, I'm not native speaker - I am Russian. Greetings from Russian car enthuziasts.

[@maryadams6415]

No need for sorry, your english is WAYYYY better than my Russian. 6-8 words maybe. Are you drilling the hole from pushrod cup to rocker arm pivot shaft hole in rocker arm. Will be rebuilding 4.0 for sons 94 4x4 explorer and this is good to know as I have no experience with the engines. Future problem averted. Thanks. Texas car nut.

[@ДмитрийФакухин]

​@@maryadams6415 Sorry for delayed answer. No, the lube hole in rocker arm already exists. I often drill six little holes in hollow rocker arm shaft. Attention! Need to remove debris, I prefer to remove end plugs from shafts. If holes drilled, also required hi-volume oil pump - it's pretty good upgrade to oiling system. No more rocker arms clatter, no more lifters annoying cold ticking. Runs nice and smooth. And I repeat: No cheap Ebay Chinese lifters! They not lasts long. Ideal way are NOS Motorcraft, sometimes big dealers (Spark-Surplus for example) have them shelf sitting for cheap. But it's rare item, yes. Second way - new set from Rockauto - Melling or Sealed Power. Quite expensive (40$ each), but buy them - and no more lifters problems. Note: if you want to get some extra HP from that motor - CompCams offer 2 camshafts for 4.0 OHV. Both 410 and 422 cams requires custom longer pushrods or milling rocker arm shaft pedestals. Cams costs near 350 $. Little pricey, yeah. But much, much more fun to drive:)

[@crisknapp1990]

Boy oh boy that's a monster job. Congratulations to you building engines can be fun but expensive

[@jacobdorn1477]

wow you gave me everything I need to know, I'm way more confident to fix my ticking ranger motor now

[@jacobdorn1477]

nevermind after I got to the end haha!

[@MIckveli2]

its an exhaust leak

[@MRSketch09]

I wish you would have showed more info, on the lower intake manifold/gasket when you were installing instead of doing an after explanation. BUT I'm grateful for what you have posted as well.

[@jensdavidsen4557]

No freakin way! The 4.0L OHV had shaft rockers!!!? Man that's cool - like my 67 Ford 390FE! That 4.0 powered my first set of wheels - a 1991 Ranger

[@egilsjolander779]

great video. Where did U buy the spareparts? do U know of any rebuild kits? My engine is near 300k and is begging for a rebuil.

[@maikerumine]

Hold the shaft! LOL. Thanks for the walkthrough on this project.

[@skylinefever]

9:45 They call the tool a "Torque angle gauge." Also, some premium digital torque wrenches have a torque angle measurement built in.

[@TEDDAV64]

Skyline Fever thanks but I did figure that out and i do have one of them torque wrenches that degree them too but thats at my work.

[@williegillie5712]

You showed the price of the pushrod and then said they only were 4.00 Should look at your parts list and cost. If the head bolts are tightened in two stages and then 90 degrees they are stretch bolts(which means they can only be used once. (Am glad you did replace them). Did you prime your lifters before installing them?

[@ronmitchell8929]

Typical for #3 to crack. Seen it a bunch. Reference the lifter tick it most likely is dirty in the block hole. When you take the lifters out make sure the outside of the lifter moves up and down freely. Most think it's internal inside the lifter. No it's the outside of the lifter. Clean both the block hole and outside the lifter with carb cleaner or such. Then either use assembly lube or oil real well. Like someone else said soak them in oil but that really applies to new lifters to get them primed. Also use assembly lube on your push rods and rocker arms. I skipped parts of your video so I didn't see that. It's running is all that matters.

[@CoberRuger]

he didn't use assembly lube

[@TheKingOfHalo]

The 4.0 pushrod ticked when it was brand new. It’s just the nature of the engine.

[@hemihead6645]

Those are roller lifters in there, yes? I know people say that you can use new roller lifters on an old cam, but they wouldn't tell you that at the factory. Especially with 140k miles on the engine, bent push-rods and constant lifter chatter. I have the the same problem with lifter chatter on my 91 Ranger XLT 4x4. But it goes away after starting it and running it for about 2 minutes. It has 185k on it so it'll probably have to be rebuilt soon.

[@TEDDAV64]

Yes they are roller lifters and yes you can use new lifters on old cam cause i have multiple times.

[@hemihead6645]

Yeah, you can. But every situation is different. Did you get it straightened out yet, or does it still tap? I hope they weren't Chinese lifters. That could be a big problem, too.

[@TEDDAV64]

no did want to take it apart again but only makes noise cold for most part but runs on all six so I fine with it.

[@blakethompson8022]

Length and metric pitch for exhaust manifold studs/bolts? Any part numbers? Great tip on the CAT bolts, thanks!

[@TEDDAV64]

I don't remember exactly but I think they are a M6x1.25 hole but that my best guess. Good luck.

[@anthonydellacroce3447]

Does the heads have to come off to change the lifters or push rods???

[@TEDDAV64]

Lifters Yes. Pushrods No.

[@juniorcruz5395]

Did you have to time the crankshaft?? To tdc before putting the heads back on!!?

[@TEDDAV64]

Nope. On the OHV model has the camshaft in block. So easy remove and replace.

[@diversifiedoff-road684]

What are the two ball bearings in the center above cam called??

[@TEDDAV64]

I am not totally sure on that one. I think they are suppose to be check valves or plugs for the oil passage ways but I am not 100% sure.

[@jesspher25]

Hey Thomas, did you buy your new heads online? im looking at buying a new pair but im curious where you got yours? there are plenty of sellers online. Im not sure whos reputable/reliable.

[@JeffAMay]

How many miles did you have on this motor when you did all this work to it and what problems were you having with it before you replaced everything? I have a 4.0 5 speed in a 2000 4x4 ranger and you can't keep coolant in the jug and it is so gutless on power it's unreal although it does have 225k miles on it. It don't burn any oil at all. Did porting your intake some and the headers help your power any? I'd love to follow some performance mods to gain some power.

[@rodneymcgiveron]

Get an Australian inline 6 (Barra)...better engine , none of these issues , goes forever and make huge power.. .Watch this kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpS0Ya2Vd92Mm9U ..It's a two ton plus Ford Territory SUV ..running a Barra Turbo and with upgrades it's running huge power but right out of the factory these engines are about 400 hp and you can't kill them either because they are so balanced and have proper variable cam timing on inlet and exhaust . My Falcon XR6 has the naturally aspirated Barra and runs 0-100 kmh (62mph) in about 6.7 seconds . The Turbo's under 5 seconds but both variants have huge torque from about 2000-6000 rpm and why they do everything so easily , Cheers..Too bad the USA never used these . They are still a fully developed Ford engine but not used in America .

[@siccicey9479]

plugs were recessed in the hole navies they’re not the correct ones, the part number is something like sp486 but there’s two different types, ez to mix up

[@fordman7479]

where did you find headers for the OHV 4.0? I can only find them for the SOC

[@TEDDAV64]

I don't remember but I think it was Summit Racing.

[@jaylongton]

Can I use the plug wires from a 1996 4.0 Ranger on a 1997 4.0?

[@TEDDAV64]

I dont see why not.

[@loganbente6459]

That ticking your hearing may just be the exhaust leaking. It makes a very similar noise.

[@TheKingOfHalo]

If I’m staying stock can I just use the Felpro head bolts? ES72794 is the part number.

[@loluspololus]

Nice job done !! Great video

[@davidhagadorn8648]

Thanks for the video Tom. This gave me the courage to dig into my 95 4.0. I’m leaking oil into cylinder 1 resulting in a oil wet spark plug and misfire. I did a compression test and it came out to around 160psi on all cylinders so I’m thinking it’s a head issue. Plan on taking the head off this weekend. Any advice on what to look for that could cause leak into the cylinder?

[@BBgunmaster67]

I'd say its possible the valve stem seals are leaking.

[@davidhagadorn8648]

BBgunmaster67 a few people have told me this could be the problem. With the valve covers off how do you tell if they need replacing? Will they be visibly loose or worn?

[@BBgunmaster67]

In your case the age of the engine is what sums up the guess. As the seals get old they start to harden and leak. You wont be able to see much with the valve covers off. The most common ways oil finds its way into the combustion chamber are leaky valve seals and worn oil control rings. Did you get the heads off yet?

[@davidhagadorn8648]

BBgunmaster67 No I decided to hold off on taking the heads off until thanksgiving when I have some time off. My fear is that I’ll be dropping 600 for new heads only to find that it doesn’t cure my problem. Truck does have 250000 miles on it though with unknown maintenance history.

[@davidhagadorn8648]

BBgunmaster67 I think I may have confirmed the issue is head related. I put a new spark plug in the problem cylinder and let it sit for a week to see if a gravity leak from the head would be present. I pulled the plug this morning and there is oil on the spark plug threads and a tiny drop on the electrode.

[@waydeeckhoff912]

Did you do any porting and cam or anything like that ?

[@leeroy8926]

What is the size of the bolts for the manifold to head and manifold to collect?

[@TEDDAV64]

m8 i believe for manifold but collector dont remember thats all i remember

[@timb6350]

ive read that you are supposed to torque the head in stages along with the lower intake thats at least how i did my new heads im not sure what difference it makes say assuming someone is just doing a lower intake gasket itd be a p.i.t.a to have to do head gaskets along with a lower intake .i asked on your other video but il ask here to do you know what size oem exhaust manifold to head bolt lengths are i know they are m8x1.25 pitch i just dont know the lengths ?

[@TEDDAV64]

Tim b yeah you're supposed to torque them in stages just to make sure you have an even amount of pressure on the gasket and these engines are incredibly simple to work on as for the manifold bolts I have no idea the lengths I got new bolts with the headers I bought

[@timb6350]

appreciate the response tom, i agree they are simple to work on mine doesnt have the e.g.r or air conditioning making it that much more easy only problem i ran into which was my own fault was when i bought the new heads i figured id use the valves i already had ,well the valves would not fit my new heads so i assumed the valve guides in the new heads needed to be reamed a little bit well screwed that up then couldnt find new guides that fit the new heads so went ahead and bought another head .........in the end what ended up happening was my old heads had oversized valves so bought new valves, trying to save a few bucks ended up costing me quite a bit more in the end . great video you have here and im sure will help out alot of people appreciate the time and effort you put into making it .and for anyone wondering what length the exhaust manifold to head bolts are they are m8x1.25x45mm and m8x1.25x70 mm .on a 94 4.0

[@jakeday5936]

Link to headers?

[@richardnixon9189]

thanks for the video. WTF is going on in the background?

[@TEDDAV64]

Richard Nixon I believe those are the Neighbors playing in their little pool

[@curiousgeorge986]

My '95 Ford Aerostar 4.0 4wd has 215k and it runs like new

[@storminator60]

I am about to put the heads back on my 4.0. What did you use for the rocker arm bolts? I had one stubborn bolt, and it got messed up- so, I want to replace them all. Do I need the Grade 9.8 for them ? Thanks

[@TEDDAV64]

storminator60 I just reuse the bolts I took off for the rocker arms and if you want to replace some yeah you have to use the same grade or better so the bolt doesn't snap

[@storminator60]

Do you have to put RTV anywhere on the head gasket? My book and gasket kit have conflicting information. Thanks

[@TEDDAV64]

RTV on head gasket that is a big NO should never have to put rtv on head gasket.

[@hobscott5739]

Where did you get your parts from?? I've got a 2000 Ford 4.0 Ranger too and the same head is cracked.

[@waydeeckhoff912]

What does it do whem.heads cracked ?

[@crisknapp1990]

@@waydeeckhoff912 leaks antifreeze into the cylinders duh

[@joshmclarty1704]

are the pistons flat tops

[@TEDDAV64]

no they are stock pistons with small dish in them.

[@aaronconley2762]

What year motor is that

[@TEDDAV64]

2000

[@aaronconley2762]

What years were the ohv was it just 2000

[@TEDDAV64]

It can be all years produce because the valve are so close together. Can happen when engine running hot or overheating.

[@Nobluffbuff]

@@aaronconley2762 I found out the last year of OHV 4.0 was '96 Explorer, the following year they were using the OHC version. Presumably for the Ranger platform, too.

[@JeffAMay]

@@Nobluffbuff the 4.0 ohv motor was used all the way up to 2000 the Overhead Cam 4.0 didn't start until 2001 in the Rangers.Mine is a 2000 OHV 4.0 with both heads cracked now...

[@jeremygodfirnon1635]

i am currently putting my 4.0 back together. did you put in new lifters? i took mine apart and cleaned them real well in an ultrasonic machine. I also went to replace the push rods, and when i got them, i got 8 that look exactly like the OEM, and 4 that have a round tube around the shaft. they are the same Melling part number, same length and ball diameter, but look completely different. Autozone told me they are probably the new "improved' design. Do you know anything about these?

[@TEDDAV64]

I just bought new lifters but cheap ones cause I think one is defective because in the cold it is still ticking but really loud so o-well. As for the push rods I dont know but sound like a different design.

[@taitegrant8833]

hoping you figured this out before now, but just to close this case, yes! the new “improved” push rods look thicker and bulkier than oem, but are indeed correct

[@TheKillerBlackops]

Typically how much would this entire job run you if you paid someone to do vs you doing it yourself

[@taitegrant8833]

I just finished rebuilding my 4.0 ohv for my 98 ranger, total cost ran me about 1200-1500$. I replaced all gaskets and seals, replaced a few broken parts and a few that just generally should be replaced when rebuilding. Shop would easily be double that, plus labor

[@andrewaardema7572]

APPRECIATE YOU SO MUCH!

[@5353iceman]

Great video, very informative. Thank you for sharing. One question, how many miles did your engine have on it with this work that you did?

[@TEDDAV64]

I think it was 130xxx to 140xxx when I did this.

[@elplateado0018]

tt 499,568

[@theejoeylee]

Im at either 462,000 or 562,000 its a 93. no lifter tick and just started smoking on startup this week because i didnt plug the fan relay back in after sitting, and it overheated. My bad.

[@MIckveli2]

your low on freeon...just watch ur condenser. when it flips on & off that quick..your low on freeon ( less than a pound )

[@crisknapp1990]

I'd have a hard time working on it with all background noise though

[@racefast64]

Thanks for the info. I'm no mechanic so my lack of knowledge delays any action on my part. The added information in your videos helped me get started on my top half remove and inspection. How is your explorer and new heads holding up?

[@TEDDAV64]

Explorer has been gone for years (wrecked it). The heads have about 30,000 mile on them and still driving today on the Ranger.

[@racefast64]

@@TEDDAV64 Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to order parts at the end of the month. I'm going with the King heads but I don't know enough to be fully confident with any choice of parts. I've done my part in the research and consideration of pocket book and goals for the car. I do have one question if you don't mind? Do the heads, in your opinion, have a good enough quality control and assurance to just bolt on? Besides a visual I'm thinking they should. Thanks again for the feedback.

[@TEDDAV64]

Yes I would say so they are a good OEM replacement head with good quality. I have had no issues with these heads and I believe that they are a heavier duty head then what Ford produced so technically they are better because these heads are new rather them being rebuilt. If you get the assemble head like I did, the heads are bolt on ready.

[@middleadam]

Great video, very informative.

[@CoberRuger]

cool vid, thanx

[@MRPOWERSfishing]

yo tom let me cop that engine if ya still got it XD

[@krustythecarhauler]

If I’m gonna go through all that I’d just pull the motor and redo the whole motor witch is what I’m gonna do next month not looking forward to it

[@TEDDAV64]

At the time this was my daily and the rest of engine was in really good shape so didn't feel it was necessary.

[@krustythecarhauler]

@@TEDDAV64 got cha my is too but it’s 300,000 with a lift and 33s I drive it every day long distance the tranny started slipping the other day so I’m gonna pull the whole thing it’s a 2011 I don’t wanna part with it sometimes I think it would be easier to just buy another one lol

[@Xboxliveyomomma127]

Damn man you’re unlucky I got 200k on mine and mine runs like a sewing machine 💀

[@MIckveli2]

so is mine...I LOVE IT !

[@ItiscalledaMANDATE]

I'll take your old engine?

[@schul274]

Where did you end up on the spark plugs? Do you have to run different plugs with the King Cylinder Heads? I copied your build (2 cracked heads): www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/2000-ford-ranger-4-0-ohv-cracked-cylinder-heads-photos-of-head-replacement.186082/

[@TEDDAV64]

No the stock plugs did work fine so just run stock.

[@VOA..]

You over torqued your heads , useing different grade bolts have different stretch charastics , original bolts are torque to yeild bolts , you can use the bolts you used but you must know the propper torque , and no i dont know the propper torque because i never seen anyone use other than factory bolts , *besides* ARP racing stud kit and the come with instructions on how to torque them , so anybody watching this video don't use the bolts he did you will have problems , and Tom Davis you should have checked the rocker arm bar for wear this 4.0 engine wears the bar where the rockers ride on and that *could* be your ticking problem or them cheap Chinese made lifters.

[@TEDDAV64]

everything you stated I already know. the original are "can stretch" so the bolts I used is so that can't happen because the engine will get boosted and is a cheaper option compared to arp as well as I have had NO problem with the bolts I used and I clearly said that the are not the stock bolt and is what I am trying, Its my truck. When I did the top end the bar was ok so it isnt that.

[@VOA..]

i'm not trying to argue , i was trying to help others that might not know the proper torque on aftermarket head bolts , i'm curious what did you torque them to ? never mind I just went back and watched the video where you torqued them to , and you torqued them as they were stretch bolts which is wrong , bolts that do not stretch are not torqued with the last step 90 deg that's for stretch bolts not the ones you used , its probably too late now but if you would have checked the torque after you did the 90 deg I bet it was way over the limit , and when you put the blower on , you might either break head bolts of pull the threads on the block, just saying.

[@TEDDAV64]

doubt that cause they are harden bolts and by the size of pulleys and blower size max boost it will see is 10 psi and might not even do that depending on power output.

[@theejoeylee]

Those bolts+Cast iron heads and iron block, + low compression+low boost = the stars aligned for you this time. I would of went with ARP and cried only once.

[@theejoeylee]

^^ this .Its quiet on start-up because the rocker arms are tight on the rail until they get some heat in them and expand= slop=tick.

[@alb12345672]

Are you a professional who does this for a living? Excellent job either way.

[@TEDDAV64]

I work in an Engine shop for semi trucks so yes.

[@derekr7814]

If you think this is an excellent job you really need to give your head a shake.

[@MRPOWERSfishing]

id like to see you do better yo.

[@derekr7814]

Colin Johnston hahahaha not hard.

[@alanhardman2447]

90 centimeters? 80 centimeters? I don't think so. That whole engine is nowhere near that long. You're too talking millimeters!

[@TEDDAV64]

Ya I ment Millimeters just a miss speak.

[@buddyd.irishsr.5646]

It would be a whole lot better video if you didn't have his kids in the background overriding what he's trying to say on the video. I don't know why that young man didn't close the garage door or do this video someplace where it's nice and quiet where everybody can hear him and what he's doing instead of everybody else in the neighborhood overriding his voice on the video

[@JeffAMay]

Do you think those headers actually gained you any power or just made your wallet lighter?

[@TEDDAV64]

By themselves no but with other mods I believe a bit. Be better off doing a full exhaust system. In reality this engine gains very little from mods like this without doing everything. That's why eventually a supercharger will be on the 4.0.