Ford 6.0 Powerstroke diesel No start hot. Failed dummy plug Passenger side

[@troynorris7666]

Ron, thank you very very much for donating your time to educate all of us about these diesel engines. I've been a tech for 25 years but not on diesels. I find your expertise priceless for myself. THANK YOU !

[@SJWolf-yf8sy]

Troy Norris Just a FYI our good buddy Ron Tech passed away about a year ago in case you didn't know.

[@5400bowen]

Now that was some unreal skill. I've seen a lot of mechanics at work, but seriously, he had that plug out in 7 minutes and 12 seconds?!? Unbelievable...

[@itsnotfar]

Rip ron. You make it look easy. My valve cover lower bolts must have been tight over 50 ft lbs. Took 2 hours to get everything apart, replaced 1 injector and 2 hours to finish assembly. Oh and those torx 30 screws on the oil rail, what a pain. Mine were all over tightened. Felt like the socket was twisting off, but all the bolts came out ok.

[@Darkwardrums77]

I have a 2006 F350 and I did this job yesterday. Had a failed driver side dummy and the pass side was on its way out. Standpipes looked fine. As Ron had mentioned somewhere, the standpipes rarely fail. I replaced it all since I was in there anyway. I started it at about 10 Am, verified the bad O-ring and hit the dealership for the $160 parts kit and O'reilly's for a hex socket kit. Cleaned everything up, put it all back together and ran my first test start/drive at about 6 pm. It can be done faster but why would you want to? I've never removed the valve covers on my engine so I wanted to take my time and make sure it was all put back together correctly.. I've been fighting a long cold start issue for a couple of years now and it's recently turned into a hot no start issue so I knew something had reached a critical stage in the motor. My wife drives the truck as much as I do so that's no bueno. In recent weeks I've done the STC Fitting(it was on its way out too), new IPR Valve and new ICP Sensor and I still had the hot no start. After doing the stands and dummys it fired right up(after cranking it for 20 seconds a couple times to drive some air out). I took it for a 20 mile drive and shut it down. It fired right back up in less than a second. Problem solved. This isn't a quick or easy job but it's not too difficult either. It just takes a little time.. I've learned almost everything I know about the Powerstroke from Ron and other various internet sources. Ron was a bad ass and it's an absolute shame that's he's no longer with us.. He's definitely missed. God bless Ron and his family..

[@jamesturner6949]

Darkwardrums77 well stated.

[@jonsometimes4127]

RIP Ron. Your videos have saved me so much over the years. God speed

[@mfeijo]

Thanks Ron. Wherever you are, know your legacy lives on! This video could not be any better.

[@tommy5ification]

RIP Ron, your legend lives on through all the great videos you made!!

[@brandonc2233]

How did he pass? That's sad he was a super smart guy and prob new more about diesels then anyone in the u.s!

[@mfeijo]

@@brandonc2233 Car accident.

[@gregvw123]

I performed this repair using only basic wrenches and standard socket set. This caused this repair to take HOURS!!! Learn from my failure - the specialized tools and the power ratchet make this much faster. A warning: Standard sockets are too short and the extended sockets are too long to use the power ratchet on some fasteners. The half-deep swivel sockets are a great investment! Suggested Tool list: Power Ratchet -- Ron: "Don't use the large batteries. They hit everything." Long pry bar Trim removal tool - for removal of the glow plug loom, it breaks easily. 10 mm half-deep swivel socket. 12 mm half-deep swivel socket. - No, you can't use standard sockets with a swivel adapter on some fasteners. A standard socket is too short and the extended socket is too long. A normal wrench takes a long time! If you want to get frugal, you and an angle grinder can turn a full deep swivel socket into a shorter half deep swivel socket. Just saying ... Socket extension. Flex 12 mm ratchet wrench. A normal wrench takes a long time! 10 mm allen socket (old style) 12 mm allen socket (new style) - Ron suggests grinding the end of a cold chisel. However, these socket sets are cheap.

[@Solamia7]

Hope someone can respond. Am I right in thinking that there is one dummy plug and one stand pipe per side of motor? Is the dummy plug always towards the front of the vehicle, or does it depend on which side you're working on?

[@johnwallmaniac]

yes you are correct, one dummy plug and one stand pipe per bank (side). dummy plug is always forward, HPOP is in rear of engine thus making the stand pipe in the rear of the cylinder head.

[@Solamia7]

@@johnwallmaniac Thank you makes sense

[@benjaminfisher750]

These are such great videos

[@DieselTechRon]

The 1/4 drive the most by far. Get two batteries to rotate. Don't use the large batteries. They hit everything.

[@sanchezconcretecontruction1751]

Hi, I have a diesel 6.0, but it does not start.

[@sanchezconcretecontruction1751]

before it does not work anymore more when it was cold it turned on and when it warms up it did not want to light

[@jamesturner6949]

Jose Sanchez hello my friend. Unfortunately dieseltechron passed away. I hope you got your truck running peace out man

[@rfaloh]

Ron, great job on the information! Just a question that would help me greatly, I have 06 I just bought an AE scanner...is the camshaft and crankshaft supposed to be in sync once the engine is turn over like FICM? In other words should it remain 1 or yes in sync? Mine is changing yes to no the whole time. Appreciate the info. Thank you

[@stevek7775]

Great detailed videos as usual, Ron! I just did dummy plugs and standpipes (driver & passenger) on my 2005 Excursion (9/2005 Build) and blue spring upgrade kit. Wasn't sure what I'd find when I got in there. Sure enough, it had the old style plugs and no blue spring. Last summer I did the oil cooler and was prepared to do the STC delete, but after taking the cover off, it had already been done! Six months ago I was afraid to touch a diesel. Not anymore, thanks to your videos!

[@Maisie6666.]

if this guy doesn't make six figures set up a go fund me account and I will donate. he's saved me thousands and I love my 6.0 because of him. thank you bud

[@SJWolf-yf8sy]

chris thorne Just a FYI our buddy Ron Tech passed away about a year ago. His son made a KZbin video on it.

[@psd6ohslow]

What do you use more? Your 1/4 or 3/8 m12 ratchet? You use it a lot I'm looking on eBay for one. You should do a video on all the tools you use on a 6.0 that would be neat! Take care Ron!

[@RacingRowdy]

Great Video! Could you do a video of removing and installing the stand pipe as well? Your videos are a huge help! Thanks again!

[@brandonc2233]

He did both in this video

[@rhettaiverssharp8695]

hay i have a 2005 6.o it tries to start but wont i have check the ipr/syc/anvoltage even moved all the wires what else could i try

[@jamesturner6949]

Rhetta Ivers Sharp hey try out the Torque Pro application that you can put on your phone it cost $5 at the Play Store and you can monitor your oil pressure's your temperatures your ficm power and a lot more it's awesome... Watch your ICP pressure when you're trying to start the truck and if it does not reach at least five hundred pounds that is the cause of your truck not starting and you need to check all high pressure oil seals and fittings... STC fitting inside your high pressure oil pump and these dummy plugs shown in this video are likely the cause

[@royallean1634]

Can someone tell if if one side fails that mean the other side does to?

[@reverendxlt]

Can this cause a cold crank no start also, or only hot start issues?

[@bluebird5100]

Ron if only the top of the stand pipe comes out, do you have to remove the oil rail to get the lower part out?

[@scooterlopez3671]

Does anybody no how to stop the smoke from coming out the exhaust on 6.0 I've tried the sea foam still doesn't work

[@thinkfirst6431]

I am sure you have found the problem by now. If you ask a question you have to give enough information to receive an answer. To answer your question as stated the answer would be to fix the cause of the smoke. You need to provide more information. Is the smoke white, black, or blue? Does it happen when the engine is cold, hot or all of the time? Idling or under load? If it goes away how long does it take? Do you have water in the oil, oil in the water or does the oil or water go down? That would just be the start of the information needed to guess what is the problem.

[@robbyvanz]

why is it mostly the dummy plugs that fail, and not the stand pipes?

[@thinkfirst6431]

2 problems. First is the inferior material that the o rings are made of. Second is the heat, pressure, and oil working on the o rings makes them fail. The dummy plugs are always under whatever pressure the high pressure oil system is delivering with no place for the oil to go to relieve the pressure. The stand pipes are always delivering oil so the oil is moving at a slightly lower pressure and not subject to the pounding shock the dummy plugs are under (well not as much the weakest place fails first). Think of this way. you are running down a hall and there is a door at the end. When you get to the door you slam into it with your right shoulder, the door doesn't give. Then you go back to the start of the hall, run down the hall and slam into the door with your left shoulder, the door opens with some pressure and you make through. You alternate right and left shoulder which do you think will fail first the right which never gets relief or the left which takes a shot but has the pressure relieved when the door opens?

[@toddkeyser8886]

Having same Intermittent hot no start, started as a longer than normal crank when cold to start, til now when it's hot it won't restart till under 100F, I pulled ICP off screen is straight, gonna tackle dummy plug and down tubes, My Q is since i'm gonna be replacing both side should i go ahead and replace nipple cups and Orings since i'm already knee deep in the engine, 2006 6.0 stock except mbrp exhaust, mbrp intake and egr delete miles 160k

[@stevek7775]

Hi Todd: As my (bad) luck would have it, temps have been freezing lately and after I did the standpipes and dummy plugs, I now have a VERY LONG crank to start when cold. Have to crank for about 15 seconds, then starts. Warm and hot starts are excellent. I hooked up my gauges and I have a normal IPR duty cycle and tons of ICP pressure cranking. When cranking, the tone of the engine changes to a more labored tone and exhaust is blowing what seems to be raw fuel. I did get a P0683 Glow Plug Module Comm Error. Never saw that before. Tonight, I am going to measure all of the glow plugs and run codes again to see if the P0683 has returned after the second cold start this morning.

[@toddkeyser8886]

Steve K I have zero codes, and no raw fuel in exhaust. Although in the last few days at start up when sitting and cold (fl weather cold low 50's sorry) i get a single puff of blue smoke. never had before. Not rich so don't wanna spend money i don't have to, but thought since i was already into the fuel rails if an added preventive step to replace nipple cups and o-ring at the injectors. I would hate to spend the hours taking top of engine off to replace stand pipes and dummy plugs just to find out orings nipple rings or the injectors needed replaced as well.

[@stevek7775]

Todd Keyser I solved the problem. I had the code again after the second cold start and found one of the Glow Plug Control Module connectors was not plugged all the way in, until the 'click' was heard from the connector lock. Starts great cold and hot now! Didn't realize that GP's mattered THAT much, when cold! I had the old 10mm style DP's and SP's and my truck was built 9/2005. Good luck on your SP and DP replacement - I think it will pay off for you!

[@toddkeyser8886]

Steve K lol mine as well was 9/2005, f350 crew dually, I will post and advise after surgery lol parts should be here middle of the week, hopefully all fingers will still be attached. Besides sp and dp i also ordered all new orings for nipple cups and injectors, the upgraded orings and washers were only 52.00. Did you upgrade your HPOP gaskets w/ the newer screw in pressure fitting vs quick connect?

[@stevek7775]

Todd Keyser Funny thing is I bought this truck with no service history, last June. I called Ford and to my surprise, this truck had NEVER been to a Ford dealer! Owner passed away so I just assumed it was due for everything and proceeded to tear into it. Did the EGR delete, then got a Livewire TS and started looking at ECT/EOT temps and determined that an oil cooler was in my near future. While I was doing the oil cooler, decided to apply the STC delete kit, tore it all down and found that it had already been done! Continued and flushed coolant, added a coolant filter and some other miscellaneous work. The long starts always bugged me so I put the SP and DP upgrades on my long term upgrade list. But to answer your question; no I was not ambitious enough to do the nipple cup seals. I was a little intimidated by the oil rail so I figured I'd just take it in steps and try the SP & DP's first.

[@psd6ohslow]

Where can I get 8mm, 10mm, 12mm 1/4" swivel sockets? All I find is 3/8". Thanks

[@minionmaster8805]

Perfecto Ron!

[@TheBattlestorm]

I would love to have a video tour of your toolbox. That would be awesome. Another great video.

[@dblr616]

@psd6ohslow, home depot.com is the cheapest place ive seen the m12 ratchet. I got the 1/4 for $159.00, came with ratchet charger and 1 battery.

[@whatchdis69]

can I just replace the o-rings instead of the entire plug?

[@gavinlee9781]

Livinglife2dafullest no, updated pipes have different seal setup, will not fail again.

[@CarlosAyala-pb9yk]

si escapa aire por los estand

[@luisgeras72]

why exactly happens when those o'rings fail that causes the no start condition?

[@thinkfirst6431]

The dummy plugs are exactly that a plug to prevent the passage of high pressure oil. When the o ring fails there is a reduction of oil pressure to the point that there is not enough pressure in the high pressure side to allow the injectors to function correctly. The plug becomes a leak that the hpop can't keep up with. Not enough pressure = no start.

[@jamesturner6949]

Think First yep you need 500 to run