Ford 5.4L 3v Engine Melling M360 Oil Pump Upgrade

This is the LATEST pump I recommend for this engine (fits all 3v engines 2004-2014)-
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This flex head is an absolute must-
amzn.to/28Sl1s3
Once installed switching to 5w-30 oil is recommended-
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Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
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ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

This is the LATEST pump I recommend for this engine (fits all 3v engines 2004-2014)- amzn.to/2IBcqKG This flex head is an absolute must- amzn.to/28Sl1s3 Once installed switching to 5w-30 oil is recommended- amzn.to/3iqB3wT Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software: Download Here- forscan.org/home.html ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend- amzn.to/2GC6dBj As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

[@brianhaney3613]

FordTechMakuloco can not get m360 to prime up any suggestions

[@clb4714]

Brian, what is the difference between the Melling 360 and the 10340? Amazon only had the 10340 available to get in time for this long weekend.

[@bbbbbb1243]

Make sure the pickup tube isn't aspirating any air.

[@joshuamassengill7159]

I went to the Amazon link for the m360 and it says this item does not fit your vehicle and says the m10340 does. I've got an 08 f150 fx4 with 5.4L 3v v8, what's the difference? which s should I get?

[@nathanieldinnwiddie4234]

FordTechMakuloco will that make the truck not start

[@darinharris2040]

This series on changing the timing/oil pump has helped me out tremendously!! I'm gradually getting everything that I need and plan to do the repair myself. I'm not new to changing parts on my truck but this one will be the most in depth repair I will have completed! I feel very confident with having watched your video Brian. Thanks SO much!!

[@Yz85rider338]

Working on mine as we speak, been a SLOW process with how little free time I have, but it is slowly being done right at least. Definitely thanks to this video series.

[@jaymesc.moreland9265]

Just an additional little tip I have found when changing a GM oil pump and it would apply to the Ford as well. Loosen the oil pick up tube bolts to where about 5 threads are showing. Loop and twist a piece of safety wire around the bolts and twist until semi tight. This will reduce the likelihood of the bolts falling down into the oil pan, or if they do, you can pull them right out and not have to drop the oil pan.

[@Metalbass1979]

Brilliant idea! I just pulled the old pump out and nearly dropped a bolt. I'm taking this suggestion on the install of the new one.

[@jasonharris1422]

Great tip

[@BogusQuacky]

great idea. I was thinking "wow this job would be so easy if I didn't drop the bolts into the pan", which I would

[@garymcmullin2292]

a fishing trip with a extended magnetic pick up might save the day

[@chargeron3115]

Great tip! Also not a bad idea to place some sort of rag or small towel in the pan to prevent a falling screw from disappearing into the pan. If one does, just have a telescoping magnet retriever and no problem getting it.

[@bradlyhunt7240]

I’m a ford guy but some stuff they do drives me nuts. The 3 valve had great potential but they knocked it back with something as simple as a weak oil pump and timing chain tensioners.

[@chrishernandez2490]

Don't forget phasers

[@bradlyhunt7240]

@@chrishernandez2490 yeah that too, the tensioners blow out and starve the phasers of oil, nothing but a domino effect with this engine.

[@kelvenguard]

Does the 5.4 Factory Ford Oil pump have a Plastic Gear ???

[@ThePery123]

@@bradlyhunt7240 I was thinking that like good motor but parts fail easily and cascade

[@randallcarney1216]

@@bradlyhunt7240 have the plastic tensioners on 2 valve Triton engines replaced with the earlier metal ones.

[@atvrider391]

Local Ford dealership says the whole engine needs to come out to replace the oil pump, mentioned how you did it in this video and they still tried to argue with me and say the engine needs pulled lol.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+atvrider391 Wow! Ford only call for the pan to be dropped.

[@Blood9Saya]

Ford wants some extra coin!

[@TheXopony]

you sure about that 5 30 / oil ? book says 5 / 20

[@csaleen302]

When you get higher miles tolerances open up. 5-30 is beneficial on a higher mileage engine

[@gears4brains118]

stealerships

[@mattgraham4340]

10 to 15 minutes LOL took me that long just to put that rear sump tube bolt back in without dropping it. Good video though

[@Hutchswoodworks]

I was thinking 10-15 minute job🤣

[@thelifescout8335]

Yeah... even for a master tech that works on bmw I was cussing that lower bolt.. took me 30 mins to just start it.

[@pescatoralpursuit1726]

I stuffed a bunch of clean rags in the front of the pan so if the screw fell (and it did several times) it wouldn't roll into the sump.

[@armstrong4196]

@@pescatoralpursuit1726 that's the smart way to do it.

[@ToxicUFO]

LoL

[@homesteading1012]

I must say I have watched your videos over and over as I do my 2003 F150 5.4l and this step was by far the most difficult at getting that little bolt in!! LOL You make everything look so easy, I had a blown cylinder head and your 4 part engine timing chain replacement has helped me so much. the only difference is I took it one set farther and removed the cylinder heads. I thought well is was at it i may as well change the oil pump and water pump, I am glad I did but....dam that bolt!! Thank you for posting these wonderful videos to help us DIY people!!! I will mention I am a 53 yr old women and getting the job done thanks to your videos!!

[@zMuddaFkka]

Homesteading 101 2003 is a 2v 5.4L as far as i know- i have a 2002 5.4L 2v - which oil pump did you use? I cant seem to find a definitive answer from anywhere on whether or not i can use this melling upgraded hi flow one.

[@hippytrout68]

I own a 2003 and also wondering if I can use this upgrade pump before I start with the roller follower replacement.

[@JimmyZ408]

You are quickly becoming my go to 5.4L ford guy! Thanks for the great info. I thought I had the 3 valve engine, but learned after your timing chain video that my 04 F250 is two valve. Thanks again.

[@aaroncooke2493]

thanks for this video...one thing I did to get that lower pickup tube bolt in was to wrap it a few times with string...set it in the ratchet box end, poke it into the hole and pull the string like staring a lawn mower. Thing went right in there!

[@marloadvincula1974]

Bloody genius 👍

[@dr7477]

I had to give up for the night but I'm gonna try this in the morning. Thanks for the idea!

[@garyyates9349]

Thanks so much for the video. It's a shame that taking the time to do things with pride is the exception. Your video's are priceless to people who have dealt with dealerships who put profits before pride.I'm a fan, keep the videos coming.

[@shantor100]

It took me 20 times and an hour to line this thing up. I almost gave up

[@3nigma.3nc]

I just used my ratcheting 8mm wrench to fish the lower pickup tube bolt into the hole. Had to fiddle and make several attempts but eventually I got it to stay in the hole and was able to start threading it with my fingers, then the wrench. No special tricks to it, took about 15 minutes; patients is key. Also if anyone is just replacing the oil pump gears like me, I had some trouble getting the gear in the pump to line up with the crankshaft notches. So I took my old gear, put it over the crankshaft and marked it at the 12'oclock, then took it off and used to it align the gear in the pump. A little bit of wiggle and it slid right on.

[@HaroldRutila]

Thank you! Just saved me an hour of frustration.

[@mattstephens962]

I had trouble aligning the flats on the crankshaft with the new pump as well. I used a different approach that worked for me. I put the new pump on the crank and then used a socket and ratchet to rotate the crank until the new pump slid into place.

[@aarondefrancisca2120]

Great Video! How come you don't recommend the Ford Racing (M-6600-F46) High Volume Oil Pump? Are the Melling Oil pumps just really better?

[@chemdog444]

and its only 70$ willit work exactly the same ?and what volume of flow is it ?

[@stevenn4393]

I haven't tried this yet... But I think the GEARWRENCH 85608 Locking Flex Head 8mm combo wrench would work better for this job. Because then you can use it to push the screw up into the hole without it flexing to the point of loosing the screw. Then you wont need to use the cats claw to put pressure on the end.

[@galesams4205]

The easy'st engine to time made 5.4 3 valve.

[@ivanlaney2336]

Brian...........I am a Godly man but I made up new curse words on those pick-up tube bolts.lol..... I'm going back together now so ill let you know how everything goes when im done. Thanks sincerely for all the great advise and vids! You are a blessing to so many people. I pray that a lot of people donate or order shirts etc.....

[@themimioguy3298]

@FordTechMakuloco Recent subscriber since finding your channel, your vids are SO much help, THANK YOU! Quick question, I have a 2014 Expedition EL Limited I purchased brand new with just under 500k miles on it currently (Florida truck). No issues and the truck runs great since new. Had a timing/cam/roller follower job by Ford around 250k and looking at doing another one (myself) soon, starting to notice some start up rattle again. That said, I idle this truck around 4-8 hours per week, every week since I bought it new in 2014. With that info, do you recommend the 360HV or 340HV for my application? I've never hooked up a manual pressure gauge to the truck but the idiot gauge has always read slightly above the middle position. Thank you! -Edit: Also forgot to mention it spends several weeks a year towing a 13,000LB contender...probably 1,500 miles per year give or take.

[@billshewmake9660]

Just want to say thanks for all the videos. They've been very helpful in fixing my truck. Couldn't have done it without you. Thanks and keep em coming....

[@clep2009]

Does the oil pump manufacturer recomend the back plate removal for priming the pump? Couldn't that be accomplished by pouring oil into the pickup tube inlet rotating the gears by hand to lubricate them? Excellent video nonetheless. I will be working on my 2004 soon.

[@coyotemancowboy4713]

After watching your vid, I pulled the oil pump on my truck to replace it with the 360. My stock oil pump had a complete blockage in one of the oil passages. Is this something you've seen before? I change oil regularly. The truck has 150k miles on it, and was running fine, but I decided to tear into it before I began having issues. I also found the gaskets on each chain tensioner were in the process of failing. Your vids saved me an engine.

[@kelvenguard]

maybe thats what takes out the cam phasers and timing chain

[@treynathaniel4075]

Normal for the 5.4 3v. I love my Fords but you cannot ignore the fact that the 5.4 3v has some serious design flaws. One is the head design,it accumulates sludge and eventually circulates it. One reason why I tell people do not run engine cleaner through that engine. Youll circulate the sludge even more. You have to physically remove the valve covers and do it by hand.

[@DDescalchuk57]

The 5.4 does have its problems but I’ll tell you what it’s got no where near the issues that the 4.7 Chrysler motor does lol. How about the fact that rain water collects under the intake manifold in the valley rots the dipstick tube and then fills the oil full of water. That’s a pretty neat trick. People these days don’t take care of their stuff they don’t do regular maintenance I only know that cause I just finished pulling one out of a Durango that had the main bearings spun cause there was more water then oil it proceeded to take out all the lifters and the rod bearings just an absolute joy

[@eltigredetejas2328]

12:48 gonna take me two days to do it 😅

[@FtWChevyTruck]

Great job on the video. Love all your stuff, honestly on this one I tried to get the bolt back into the pick up tube for an hour. then I jacked up the truck and took off the oil pan in 15 min and bolted that bastard on.

[@TunefullyOG]

That driver side pickup bolt is my worst nightmare 😫. It sucks getting in so bad I almost want to drop the pan. Im doing a head and cam swap on my 02 lightning. Everything has been easy except for these two 8mm spawns of Satan.

[@MJorgy5]

Which pump would you recommend for a 4.6L 2v?

[@BrockMcSheridan]

Melling High volume oil pump

[@nuttynut54]

The melling M360 works if your Are planning on making some HP or the M340 would work fine for your daily driver

[@peteacevedo3822]

Will this work for a 2007 Lincoln Mark LT 5.4

[@treynathaniel4075]

@@peteacevedo3822 yes

[@matthewhewes7279]

Thank you Brian for awesome videos! Also, my new Melling pump did not prime by cranking from just the starter, I had to actually start the engine, and the oil came up on the gauge very quickly, within a couple of seconds.

[@anthonygarcia5746]

555k subscribers for quality installation and info that not one local mechanic wants you to hear because he wants to charge you double the price and use parts from the junk yard. Makuloco deserves better

[@puertorico1616]

Hi Bran, great videos. I have a 2007 f-150 5.4l 3v. It has just happened under 140,000 miles. Will be replacing timing/oil pump (Melling M360VH), and rockers. All OEM except pump. I am acquiring the tools and parts you recommend little by little. Probably will have everything by the end of March. I am not a machanic but have sent you videos and feel confident. I just finished changing the plugs and and coils (Motorcraft). I was lucky and none broke. Thank you so much for your indepth vedios...they're great.

[@brendanvogele2531]

One quick tip for those who have big paws like me. I was fighting this all day until I decided to use a hemostat to hold the inboard pickup bolt and thread it into the hole. Don't clamp the bolt until the hemostat locks, just gently hold it just below the head of the bolt and then snake the bolt in the hole. Once in the hole, just use one finger to push on the head of the bolt to get it to start meshing into the threads, and with continuous pressure from ones finger on the head of the bolt, gently release the bolt with the hemostat and reposition it after each counterclockwise turn (as viewed from above, since the bolt is inverted). This will tighten the bolt until one gets to the last few turns. By this time the gentle grip by the hemostat starts to slip, which means a swivel ratchet as suggested in this video will now have enough resistance to start clicking and finish the job. Hope this helps someone.

[@littlemoo52]

i spent the first 10-15 minutes staring into the engine bay wondering why i bough a ford.

[@skidmycrack7374]

Simply because anything else unless it's a diesel is worse

[@haywardsautomotive6156]

You can also invert the pump and pour oil down the inlet and turn the rotor until it comes out the outlet w/o removing the cover. Great time saving video Brian!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Hayward's Automotive True but I like to give a visual to make sure it's machined right and no problems before putting it on plus I squirt a little in the regulator ports.

[@jamesplotkin4674]

@@FordTechMakuloco Brian, after priming, what's the torque for the oil pump cover?

[@deerhunter7482]

@@jamesplotkin4674 89 “ lbs torque

[@easycomeeasygo8901]

Did this without the flex neck, because after 1100 of new ford parts i was too cheap and stubborn to buy another 20.00 wrench, lol. Even torqued it. Easiest way I found for myself was from underneath on my back looking up. With my left hand i held the bolt between my two fingers and put it in by feel. Kind of a bitch but still better then the repair bill. I needed cams too. If you do too your in luck they only 108.00 ea from a online ford dealer. My local dealer is a rappest. Good luck all Thanks for your video's

[@andrewm6391]

Melling also offers cast iron timing chain tensioners now as well. Have you had the opportunity to try those or get your hands on a set of those yet?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I have used them in two vehicles so far no problems yet and the machining and finish on the seal side was spot on.

[@jamesplotkin4674]

@@FordTechMakuloco Glad you agree. I asked this very question, so disregard it :) Part number is BT402 and BT403 Especially nice is they're ratching, so the chains never slack overnight and make noise on startup, even after many, many miles.

[@caliboyz8314]

Good afternoon where is your shop located? Thanks

[@rosco1883]

lol i like how you didnt show that last bolt going in the pick up tube. i ended up dropping the oil pan an inch or so and i could fit my fingers in there a lot easyer.

[@THERIGGEDONE]

Things that make you say “hmmm”

[@bretearwood7027]

Were you able to access the oil pick up tube to remove any debris that may be lodged in there during any point of this?

[@kurtis309242]

Hey I got a question I watch one of your old videos that you said you recommend using 5-30 oil over 5-20 oil I have a 02 Ford Explorer with the 4.6 v8 it saids 5-20 oil recommends but you think 5-30 better to use then 5-20

[@seanserafini3011]

Thanks for the great video. If I was to switch to the M360 pump and 5w-30 oil and installed the ratcheting iron tensioners like the older motors had, do you think this combination would cause the tensioners to ratchet too tight?

[@jamesplotkin4674]

They cannot get too tight. The chain controls how much slack is there.

[@sanity1977]

Bravo Brian, great tutorial how to video... Informative as always. Thank you sir

[@ozzstars_cars]

big difference with the new pump. why did the instrument cluster still say Low Oil Pressure after the replacement ?

[@umetheemu5150]

because he had a external oil pressure gauge hooked up where the oil pressure switch would be

[@ozzstars_cars]

Makes sense to me, disconnected sensor while testing. 10-4 good buddy

[@turbooomann]

+Ozzstar you must be a super trucker LOL

[@gbattilanaf]

what part of he hooked up an external (more accurate) oil pressure gauge didn't you understand?

[@xilaaperez7170]

Ozzstar in my say low oil in the engine is off

[@Daniel_5.4]

Thanks to this guy I’m doing the repairs on my 3v. Just threw a timing chain and now I’m stuck doing it myself ( I don’t trust mechanics around my area ) but hardest part is remembering all the connectors of wiring😂

[@cgabriel1218]

I would like to see where how you tapped the manual oil pressure gauge

[@treynathaniel4075]

...where it normally goes

[@richardwilson117]

These Fords don't actually have an oil PRESSURE gauge, instead Ford came up with a wierd switch system. If the pressure reaches a point that Ford thinks is sufficient, the switch closes and the dashboard indicator moves. The sending unit (switch) is located just behind the oil filter. You can remove the sender, replace it with a "T" and put it back on the end of the "T". The side port can be used to run a line up to a real oil pressure gauge on your dashboard.

[@briannawilson8866]

I was able to do this on the 2V 5.4L without the flex head. Just a regular open end 8mm wrench. Not saying I didnt wish I had one though.

[@rayt8531]

Just wanted to say thanks for the great tutorial. One tip I have for others having a hard time with the rear bolt is to take two minutes to make a wrench out of a thin piece of sheet metal. Use tin snips to cut a metal strip 3/4" wide by 6" long then lay the open end of an 8mm wrench at the top 3/4" side to trace and cut the 8mm opening. Now you have a very thin flexible wrench that you can use to overcome the steep angle of the rear bolt during its initial installation. As you insert this flexible wrench you can use the same finger you are using to hold the rear bolt in place to guide it. I fought with this rear bolt for over 2 hours before trying the above and then was able to install the rear bolt in literally minutes.

[@tns4]

A year later and this gem of advice saved me likely hours of frustration. I made the wrench like you said but I also made a “wing nut” to slide onto the screw head to help with getting it started. I cut a very thin strip (barely wider than the screw head itself is tall) by maybe an inch and a half long. Folded it tight into thirds, think like a paper clip not a Z. Then jammed a screwdriver in the middle and twisted until it opened up enough to fit tightly over the screw head. Kinda looked like this when it was done . Made it easier to start the threads and turn the screw with one finger. Pulled right off then the flexible wrench did the rest. A heartfelt thank you 🍺

[@jamiefanselow6509]

Great videos I have question I change oil pump 340HV 2009 Ford F150 and when I crank it it is not building oil pressure. I tried with oil sending unit then changed it out to an oil gauge. Still no pressure. not sure if I am not cranking long enough or do think it could be something else?

[@boboconnor1403]

I've just tried to get to those DAMN pickup tube bolts and can not get the inside bolt. F$#@$%!!!!!

[@jamesplotkin4674]

Wrap some fine safety wire around the bolt under the head so it won't fall into the pan. It'll help hold it while you cuss for an hour.

[@manuelcontreras7485]

Hi Makuloco!! My name is manuel, I'm from venezuela!! Excelent video's! I have a question? Is it possible to place cameras from the Ford Triton engine to the 5.4 engine of a 2008 FX4?

[@williamvaughan1218]

If any chain guides have broken. You want to remove the pan for sure even if you could remove any debris most all of it will be stuck into the pickup screen. If your doing the job as preventive maintenance then ya you can just swap out the pump. Pans are easy to remove even for the 4wd models.

[@richardwilson117]

?? 4x4. IF you call removing a crossmember, the starbilizer bar and dropping an axle "easy".

[@williamvaughan1218]

@@richardwilson117 it's not that hard. Maby if you live in the rust belt it might be but you still got to do it or you won't have enough oil pressure to run the phasers and if your oil filter gets plugged and goes into bypass mode then those pieces can plug the passage in the head that provides the oil. Do it right or buy a engine.

[@johnstansel3243]

FordTechMakuloco, I'm finally changing out all of the timing components at 366K miles. Had slap at startup and some light ticking noises. Found broken guide on left side and one bad lash adjuster and two rough followers. Engine never had a wrench on it except for mine. Did change plugs twice myself with no problems. And regular oil changes every 5K miles with non-synthetic 5-30W since 10K, might be why it has lasted. Tip for installing the Melling 360 that I can offer...put a rag under the front to catch the bolt when it gets dropped around 10 times trying to put the back one in! What worked for me was using a long tie wrap around the bolt while starting the threads, it offers some resistance while threading it with the flex head gear wrench. Great videos by the way. BTW, I must have lucked out because I'm not really having most of the problems with the 3V that others experience.

[@CHixon]

Outstanding video. Learned even more in the comments section.

[@timking1160]

I just had the motor go out on my 2007 f150 at only 102,000 miles. I'm wondering if it was a faulty oil pump that caused it. I bought a used 5.4 from a 2008 and just learned that it has updated and improved heads with different spark plugs. Did Ford fix the oil pump too or should I replace it with the M360 before I put the motor in? Are there other things you would change before installing a used 5.4 3v to avoid problems later?

[@dustinatwood7077]

You videos are very well do. thank you for taking the time to put together such a great product.

[@ChrisMiller-yi1eu]

Thank you for all your help with this project I watched all of your videos. I have to ask I bought the melling 10340 oil pump. Is this going to be sufficient

[@MasterChief-sl9ro]

I once put a high pressure oil pump on my Camaro. I should have read the instructions. It was for race cars that run thin oil. It blew gaskets\seals out all over the place. As it reached 90 PSI... When it was designed for 45 PSI...

[@wrifraff]

I really wish I would have known this back in 2014. I did phasers, chains, tensioners, VCT solenoids on my dad's F-250. Didn't put an oil pump on it. 1300 miles later, it spun a rod bearing. Would have been cheap insurance, but instead I still have to put a motor in it.

[@imenriched]

Curious if that oil pump has a steal backing plate or a alum one??....seen some that recommend the steel one because the alum one will flex and leak after fully up to operating on higher RPMs. so I was also wonder if your recommend the steel backing plate one too?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+imenriched yes it has the upgraded cast iron backing plate

[@lightningvolt1273]

So the M360 is perfect for my 04’ 5.4 Lariat correct??? Also, do you recommend using Lucas full synthetic blend stabilizer on my 5.4 with 5-30 synthetic oil with 143,000 miles on the clock?? Yes it does have the load ticking noise. Gonna need a new timing chain set real soon. Thank you in advance👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I use this oil pump in all my 5.4L 3v builds 2004-2014 model years- amzn.to/2Nim7DM

[@subcool1762]

Why when I click the link Amazon says it doesn't fit my vehicle? I have 2007 5.4 f150

[@zealvespinhal6839]

can i use this procedure to the first start of my 2005 mustang rebuilt motor?

[@EdFromOhio]

Did this over the weekend, and it turned into a 3 hours job. I thought we had rags in the pan and we didn't. So when I dropped one of the bolts, it went down into the pan and under the baffle, so we had to drop the pan.

[@jamesplotkin4674]

Just grab an "extra" bolt and go ahead and throw a couple 1/4" 10mm sockets in there, too. Won't get sucked in the screen anyways!

[@i94south34]

Wish i would have seen this vid when i did my timing chain

[@charlesrosaly]

Should be a breeze to get back in there. Do it while the job is still fresh in your head.

[@545torino]

At 12:40 in the video it said oil pressure low does it take a minute to reset? just wondering.👍

[@campermike8879]

He has a video how to hook up the gauge for testing. It requires removing the oil pressure sensor and connecting the hose for his test gauge

[@treynathaniel4075]

@@campermike8879 on the dash dofus

[@treynathaniel4075]

and yes is because he disconnected the gauge

[@jamesplotkin4674]

@@treynathaniel4075 Be nice, he obviously didn't pay close attention to the video. Brian says he's left the "real" gauge on for startup and warmup to see improvement.

[@DonnerPassWhisky]

Have learned from many of your videos that Amazon is the best place to get good prices on auto parts. Never would have thought to look there. Thanks, parts are expensive enough even at the best price available.

[@jmc3367]

Makaluco......literally the best mechanic you tube ever.

[@Marco-fi6gv]

🎯🎯🎯

[@projektxent]

My question is do I drop the oil pan to reach the oil pump? I’m a noob to performing this particular service. 2005 Ford Expedition Eddie Baur

[@joeysanchez5926]

You can. It's even easier that way

[@Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiitt]

@@joeysanchez5926 just to clarify, a new oil pump can be installed via oil pan removal? 09 King Ranch, thank you

[@ChancetheCanine]

Did you say 10-15 minute job?? :))

[@gallagher68]

If you are already in the front of the engine to do a timing chain swap, it is a 15 minute add-on.

[@bennapier9260]

If your guides have broken. Pull the pan. The pieces will end up stopping up the pickup. Seen it plenty of times

[@j1w2t3]

you do excellent videos you sure missed a good opportunity to back flush the oil screen

[@swingblade1776]

If you drop a bolt in the oil pan it might need to come off anyways. Happened to me, glad it did tho because the pickup tube was full of plastic from the timing chain guides.

[@beeztreefarm]

This is exactly my issue. Was the pickup tube hard to replace?

[@vwmountainman9701]

Very nice work. Excellent tips - thinking of buying an 07/08 - F150. Reading up on all the Good & Bad. Sounds like regular maintenance is the key along with Synthetic oil.

[@noobjitsu1743]

did u do it? if so how is it going?

[@Lonewlf7676]

I see that Melling lists a M340HV for the 5.4 3v SOHC. The M360(and HV version) are listed as being for the DOHC 5.4. Is there an actual difference in the oil pumps between single and dual overhead cam engines? Is the M360HV a higher flow high volume pump than the M340HV if they both fit the same?

[@pitviper1445]

I had the same question. Which one for a 2011 Expedition 5.4L 3V......M340HV or M360HV....Amazon’s says M340HV

[@BrandonWest87]

For clarity, the difference is the oil pressure relief spring. The M340HV is set to 60psi whereas the M360HV is set to 80psi.

[@tinothyosolin9282]

Can you link to the adapter used to installed the hose in place of the oil pressure switch

[@CRGtx325]

Which oil pump would you recommend for a 2011 F150 5.0 with high mileage? I’m thinking I need to upgrade to a high volume high pressure application.

[@545torino]

Last question what is your reason on switching to the 5w-30 instead of 5w-20, Because I live down south and if a 5w-30 helps the longevity of these 5.4's, I'll switch over to it next oil change thanks.

[@JRobert111111]

I'd be curious as well if this also applies to the 2V 5.4 at 150k with the original pump.

[@joshg678]

+JRobert111111 yes you always should increase the weight of your oil as you get higher mileage. I put 10w40 (5w30 original spec) in our 98 2V 5.4 and it is quiet as a kitten at 180k. It's in a E350 dual wheel box truck that hauls a lot of weight frequently.

[@venomx4093]

+joshg678 I have a 98 2v 5.4 with 247,000+ miles with the original pump. Still using 5w30. I was told to keep using the same weight oil because of the tolerances of something. Cant remember exactly what it was. But my truck isn't quiet lol. Leaking valve stem seals too. A friend told me to switch to a heavier weight oil to stop the blue smoke. It doesn't smoke all the time. Only at start up and only once in a while. It burns about a quart of oil every 2000 miles or so.

[@DementedButtHole]

That's a very subjective question. If a manufacturer shifts from 5w30 to 5w20, that only means your motor won't start burning oil. That said, no two 5w20 or 5w30 are the same either. Almost every oil from almost every manufacturer has a wear testing spec listed online. Wear testing spec is listed in PSI of vertical force exerted on two rotating bodies being lubricated by the oil in question (in presence of a temperature gradient). So, if the motor doesnt burn 5w20 oil, and you selected a kind of 5w20 oil that has a wear spec similar to the 5w30 oil you were using before--then you didn't lose anything. Google "RAT 540 engineering data" to find out wear spec for most popular motor oils in the market :)

[@treynathaniel4075]

@@joshg678 Not necessarily. And not from 5-30 to 10-40. The over engineered 5.4 triton 3v does not have the clearance for 10w 40. Most jump that big to doctor other problems. You can go from 5-20 recommended to 5-30. Anything more and you have underlying issues or you will. A 2v is a different engine

[@TCRSCircuit]

What causes the mech oil psi gauge to flutter like that? My 4.6 does it (Aftermarket autometer gauge) . I've been told everything from a bearing about to spin to normal

[@treynathaniel4075]

lots of flutter is a bad sign,could be sticking relief valve,debris,air in the system,..

[@tnibourg]

Agreed pump can be removed without oil pan removal, but every one I have had to do the chain guides are sitting in the oil pan, tough to fish them pieces from the front cover. Great videos, it does amaze me how you have time to produce quality videos and pull wrenches at the same time. Dedication!

[@treynathaniel4075]

Since you have to reoil might as well drop the pan and clean it out

[@thewholls7176]

How many hours do you reckon it would take to change this oil pump? Do a full timing kit with chains and tensioners and guides and also change the roller rockers and the lash adjusters all in one go?….. What sort of book would you quote for a job like that 16 hours or something? Good channel all the best from Melbourne Australia

[@wendellgreenidge3362]

What model Milwaukee impact is that?

[@RemmikRotus]

That’s the 18v Fuel 1/2” impact gun that you can purchase as a set with battery and charger or separately as tool only. Nothing special about it. A bit overkill for this. Milwaukee’s 3/8 ratchet driver with the smaller 12v batteries is much better. It gives you enough grip and leverage to break them loose, by turning it like a normal ratchet, then hitting the trigger to remove the bolt fully. They also make a 12v small impact driver that fits better into tighter places and good enough for these smaller bolts that are not rusted on.

[@wendellgreenidge3362]

@@RemmikRotus lol that comment was 6 years old, I have all the Milwaukee impacts now and I love them… Thank you anyway for taking time to respond

[@crawfordoverton3299]

Did I see it stating oil pressure low at end of video

[@FordTechMakuloco]

If you are talking about the cluster yes it did as the oil pressure sending unit was removed to install the manual gauge.

[@nickc.6001]

Was wondering about that myself.

[@Dave_Boyer]

Something else to do to my F150, thanks for the video!

[@jayr1757]

thanks for the homework, lol

[@jamesturner3001]

What about melling 340 high volume pump

[@FordTechMakuloco]

My favorite

[@EVRY1STFU]

Just finished installing the new M360HV. Yes, it was a beast of a job. As shown in the video the 8mm flex is a must and with the assistance of a topside creeper made it more manageable. I did have one secret weapon. I sub-contracted the hard to reach pickup tube bolt to my 11 yr. old daughter. Together we got it done! I've seen a lot of back and forth between the M360HV and M340HV. At the time (July/Aug) I was gathering all the tools and parts needed for the job, it seemed like the M360HV was advertised pretty heavily. With that, I'm not going back in and swapping out the 360 with the 340. At this point, it is what it is.

[@A.C.71]

Did the job really only take 10-15 minutes as he states in the video?

[@EVRY1STFU]

@@A.C.71 The oil pump, power steering and the oil pressure sending unit were hard. I have a 4x4 so the clearances we're tight. Getting the pump off was easy. Putting it on was challenging but the bolts on the pickup tube are hard. Took me awhile, but I'm a novice.

[@A.C.71]

@@EVRY1STFU I'm thinking he meant 15 minutes once the from cover was off. I'm curious how much time the entire job from start to finish takes the average guy. About how long did it take?

[@EVRY1STFU]

@@A.C.71 I'm below average. Meaning that was the most I worked on a vehicle in terms of technicality. It took me longer than most. I work a full-time plus type job and I had to contend with 3 family emergencies. I also dealt with a counterfeit tool from Amazon....so that slowed me down significantly. I also inspected all parts and tools 20 times over. I called several Ford dealerships to compare part numbers etc & dealt with Amazon fraud department. I could probably do the job in 3-4 days comfortably now that I have a little experience. Some guys on his videos get it done over the weekend. Brian quoted me 1.5 days, but he's a master mechanic with a nice garage setup. Overall, it's a good bit of work.

[@A.C.71]

@@EVRY1STFU oh ok so it's a massive job. In the video he kinda makes it sound like once the cover is off it takes just 10-15 minutes. It doesn't look like he dropping the oil pan either. So that gave me the impression once the cover is off which isn't very hard it just takes 15 minutes to change the oil pump out.

[@EPerez-iw9zp]

I have a 1997 ford expedition 5.4 and Its leaking oil from the oil pressure gauge switch even after replacing it. What do you think might be the problem.

[@Kmecha84]

Dry off the threads and use pipe dope to reseal it

[@lveroflife]

2 Things I would like to point out is: 1 An it never hurts to put an anaerobic sealer on the oil passage mating surface. And 2, If the guides have come apart, more often then not, pieces end up in the bottom of the oil pan and can get sucked up into the pickup. That being said, I get the commission benefits of not taking off the oil pan, however comebacks are a killer.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+lveroflife if a guide came apart in junks then yes absolutely pull the pan

[@williamwhite9767]

I think he did recommend that you scope the pan to make sure it didn't have debris inside.

[@justinwalker3617]

@@FordTechMakuloco Do you have a video for pulling pan? Is it necessary to raise motor on 04 5.4?

[@grantheadley-sr6vk]

Is liquid Molly engine flush you recommend? I have a 07 f150 5.4 triton

[@billbaldwin5873]

Where are you located ? I have 05 f150 , with 410000 miles , everyday driver , trailer puller , no internal engine work at all . I would like your shop to do chains and pump work , I’m sure they’re getting worn . It’s had a Lucas and motor craft diet since purchase in 06’

[@pauliethebrit]

Thank you for your clear, concise information. You have helped me with many of my Ford induced traumatic occurrences. Thank You!

[@RustyTaylor-q1b]

Any help appreciated...i did a timing job and new oil pump. Cleaned pan and pickup tube. Reassembled, went to priming procedure, and i have zero oil pressure. Verified the gauge and sensor. Both are good. Verified with a mechanical gauge and zero oil pressure. Put a scope in the pass side VC and no oil coming to the top of the motor. Thoughts????

[@NCPDFSB]

hey brian, was there a bolt missing from the oil pump right lower about 3 clock position? or is there a pass thru the front cover?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+NCPDFSB yes the bolt for lower guide goes there when you build the timing components up

[@dennish9519]

I know that there are a ton of helpful comments here but I thought I would add to this awesome volume of helpful info. 1st, yes those two bolts for the pickup tube will be a pain in the butt, just face the reality now and continue on. Make sure you have a flippy/swivel open ended wrench and you should be ok. I found that the lower harder to get at one almost wanted to cross thread on me so I had to make sure the other bolt was loose enough to allow movement of the pick up tube. 2nd, Priming the pump. This is where I struggled. I left the crank sensor unplugged and did the running with the starter only thing and never got any oil pressure. I even removed the oil filter to see if any oil had made to that and it did not. I found a very short video that was put out by Melling on just this problem. They advised to prefill the oil filter and also to use what ever means to push oil into the lower squarish hole where the oil filter mounts to. You pump, squeeze, shove whatever you can do to force oil back into this opening. what you are doing is pushing oil back into the oil pump. Once I did this it only took another 5-10 seconds of turning the engine with the starter to get oil pressure. I was questioning everything that I did when I was not getting oil pressure. I was fearing that I was going to have to tear back into the engine again. Verify each step while doing the job and trust the method of priming. You will be fine.

[@Bryan-zy8fr]

Hey Brian, Thank you for all the great information! I took my 09 f150 with 100k miles to the shop and as I expected it needs the whole timing kit / oil pump, vct fix. I was thinking of doing the repairs myself, but I'm realizing that I just won't have the time for such an involved project right now. How can I convince a shop to use the upgraded oil pump rather than replacing it with the same pump that isn't designed well. Most of the mechanics I've talked to will only order parts from the dealer and will not use anthing else. Does Ford make an upgraded pump like the Melling they could order instead of the existing replacement? I really don't want to have to pay for the same repair again. I know it costs more to have a professional do it, but I also want the best parts for a lasting fix. Any advice on how to talk to the mechanics would be great!

[@boostedbadboyzx12r31]

It's your vehicle, you tell them what you want in it. Period.

[@hailofaguy]

I notice that the oil pump your installing doesn't have the M360HV stamped on the housing. Did you go back with the standard M360 instead of the HV? Your link to the one on Amazon shows the HV.

[@jaysonbonard1385]

Love how detailed you are! Thank you for all your in depth videos. Cause of u, I rediagnosed my previous diagnosis and found that the right bank has a spun cam cap and plugged the bearing journals causing p0012 and p0016. Oh, its an 08 f150 5.4 3v 135,000 miles. Owner drove it with very low oil level for an extended period. Again, I appreciate your in depth videos! Sincerely, jays automotive repair of edmond Oklahoma!

[@artrog2]

I just did this job in an 07 Navigator before you start cussing and throwing stuff in your garage, just take a few extra minutes to loosen the bolts on your oil pan just enough so that the pan drops about half to 1 inch. You will be able to get both bolts on the pick up tube by hand.

[@ponycorral99]

hello, I just finished up the oil pump upgrade on my 06 expedition with 5.4l. I put the melling m360 in. my issue is that once it's all back together I have no oil pressure on the mechanical gage that's hooked up to the oil sensor port. I left the crank sensor disconnected and cranked it about 3 different times for a few seconds, thinking it might just be priming. No luck. I even took the back plate off the new pump to put some oil in there like you said. now I'm second guessing as to whether I even put the new o ring on the pickup. Can't find it anywhere but you know. kinda freaking out here. is it possible that I just need to start it? don't want to cause damage is all.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+stevensmellie yes at times you will need to start it just keep an eye on the mechanical gauge you will find oil pressures comes up in about 1 second after startup if so you are good to go!

[@ericaberta9864]

@Stevensmellie, did starting the truck work? We're having the same problem, no pressure with the crank sensor disconnected.

[@ponycorral99]

@@ericaberta9864 oh, you got to love those gear rotor oil pumps! Yes, starting the truck did work when I was doing that expedition. It took a few seconds but it did come up. I just actually completed a full rebuild on a 4.6 Mustang engine and had the same issue 2 weeks ago! Again, it's the same style oil pump. I had done the same thing by removing the back plate and filling it with oil as much as I could. I had never run the engine, though, since it was a full rebuild so I was more nervous than when I did the expedition, which had oil throughout the engine from prior runtime. I took faith in the assembly lube and the priming procedure that I had used for the 4.6 L. During which I was able to see oil coming all the way to the roller followers. It was still the cause of great anxiety, however, when I turned the key and got no reading on the gauge! I tried three times cranking it without the sensor connected. no pressure. I resorted once again to starting the engine for a couple seconds and still did not have pressure. That got me second-guessing my pressure gauge. I tested the gauge on an external tank that I had used to pressure-prime the engine . The gauge worked. So, I decided to try cranking it one last time... Finally the gauge started to build pressure! Hallelujah! 85psi! I wish you luck!

[@ericaberta9864]

Stevensmellie... Thanks for responding. Talk about a learning experience. We ended up calling tech support at Melling. We used a suction gun to inject oil into the oil pump where you attach the filter. Did it once, waited a few minutes and injected more. Put the oil filter back on and tried cranking. Hallelujah!! Oil pressure went up. Connected the crank sensor and it started right up. Can't believe you went through it twice.

[@ponycorral99]

@@ericaberta9864 Excellent news! I'm so glad you got it working. Prior to cranking the engine in the Mustang, I had pumped 10 quarts through the whole engine at 50psi thinking, "that's gotta be enough to get it going." My pressure tank was connected to the same port the pressure sensor attaches to. That darn pump still didn't prime lol. We eventually got it, though. I hope you're works for you for a long time to come. If you still run into idling issues, don't forget to reset the KAM (keep alive memory.) Your vehicle has spent awhile trying to compensate for bad parts. Resetting the memory will allow the vehicle to relearn the idle trims. I believe fordtechmakuloco has a great little video on how to do that. Works like a charm! Nothing more discouraging than doing a long involved procedure like the timing set only to have it idle like garbage still. I had that once; reset the KAM and life was good 😎.

[@ProjectZGarage]

I clicked on the link you have for the upgraded oil pump but it says it does not fit my 2010 F150 fx4 5.4 L? Is there a different one i should use?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

It does trust me!

[@ProjectZGarage]

ok Thanks will order today and another question so i had the problem where when you come to a stop and the truck starts to vibrate very rough I swapped out the vct on both sides and it was good for a day and started to do it again does that mean that the cam phasers are bad?

[@puttching72]

I have a 2010 platinum 5.4 3v and was getting directed to a different pump as well. Price was a little more but I will be following Ford Tech Makuloco info. Can just the oil pump be changed or everything pulse timeing kit! Cast iron or Ford oem kit? I'm definitely thinking schedule appointment with Ford Tech Makuloco since my sister lives in Chicago!

[@CarminesRCTipsandTricks]

Invaluable information!!! I was an Engine Builder after being a Ford Line Tech (retired 9 years ago)... A couple of questions, if you can help. Now I haven't worked at a Ford Dealer, since the first 4.6 Mods were being put in Crown Vics and T-Birds... And for the first 18 months of THAT, ANY issues with the 4.6 - and we could only pop the Engine out, and ship it back to Ford!! So my Dealer experience with them is limited... (Just to qualify myself) This High Pressure Oil Pump... Would it be the same for the 4.6 3V? Including the over EASY R&R?? 😎 That was amazing! Also, I'm restoring a 98 Mustang GT. Would that same procedure work on the 2V as well? That is such a lifesaver for this Old Fart! 😋 Third... I was TOLD (and you know how THAT goes!), that on the Modular Cam Journals, if they're beyond clearances.... You could CAREFULLY SAND the Journal faces, rechecking clearances with Plastigauge. 😲 I do know Engines... But that one sounds a bit incredible! I'm figuring that you're the Man to ask. Thank you! Carmine ✈🚂🚙

[@Ken-wu6hr]

O5 F150 5.4 That's a updated Pump? O'reilly's Don't List it. & switch to 5-30? One of My Best Customers Truck is Rattling Bad, I've Maintained it since New, I Feel Bad it's noisy

[@jeansoto2313]

Do I really have to change the timing chain when it's tapping or can I just put new tensioners

[@brentbradley6711]

Chains normally last forever.

[@scottjansen3569]

Great video. I have a 2014 F53 chassis motorhome with the 6.8 liter 3 valve v10. I have 32,000 miles on the engine and have not had any engine issues. . Would you recommend changing my oil pump.

[@spencergross5474]

Used a 14" zip tie around the bolt to get it off and back on. You can use the tag end of the tie to firmly hold, position and align the bolts as well as put a small side load on them to ratchet them off and back on with the swivel head. Once you've ratcheted the bolts on far enough, you simply cut off the zip tie. There's no way to lose them in the oil pan either.

[@goneballistic]

That is smart. Good thinking

[@bennettwallace6004]

After fighting with that inside bolt for about a couple hours I called the wife thinking with her having smaller fingers she'd be able to get the bolt started. But like me, she was having difficulty getting it to catch on the 1st couple of threads. So being the out of box thinker that she is, she went to my son's room and got his 3" squishy ball and inserted that under the bolt hole, got the bolt in, and then I was able to rotate and get the bolt started. After that, I kept the ball in place while tightening it down with the 8mm flex head. As for set up, we stuff a bath or kitchen hand towel down into the front of the oil pan, up against some other internal pan structure. We let some of the towel hang out on the right hand side so it could be pulled out later. The purpose for the towel was to give the ball something to butt up against and so it would stay in place and of course, not allow it to fall or get stuck in the pan. After all said down, I pulled out the ball, the towel, and then double checked and cleared out any remaining debris with said towel. Worked like a charm! If there was a way, I'd upload a pic of the setup. Hopefully this will help out the next person.

[@markstauffer3901]

Great video!! Does anyone know if this same procedure works on 4.6 on a 2010 explorer? It is the same pump, but i believe the timing covers are slightly diffrenent. thanks

[@rogermeyer6337]

For my 2010 f150 5.4l 3v engine, Autozone's system says my oil pump is a melling m-340, not m-360. Going to do more research, maybe their system is wrong. Would hate to buy the wrong part.