Forging a Cu Mai Hunting Knife

In this video we'll be forging a cu mai hunting knife! Cu Mai is a go mai (5 layer) with copper in the 2nd and 4th layers. It produces a stunning effect!
My Website: www.tyrellknife...
My Instagram: / tyrellknifeworks
Abrasives by Brodbeck Ironworks: brodbeckironwo...
Maple burl handle by @flemmingwoodsupply - / flemingwoodsupply

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

What do you think of this build? I didn't show the etching process but I actually had to cover all the copper with clear nail polish and just etch the 1080 by hand with a q-tip! Please give me your comments!

[@anthonystrunk5360]

I was wondering about the etch...

[@Aleeknives]

Did you try to etch it first? I was thinking of a coffee etch

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I was warned from another video that the copper etched much faster so it would be pitted or depressed it you etch the whole thing. I was thinking about coffee but decided against it.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I etched that mokume gane in my ferric with no issues. It still works fine. Is it supposed to lose potency?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

@@wrk3182 yeah, it’s probably time for me too. It’s been over a year at least. No

[@TheRedhawke]

I've never seen Cu Mai before and I think this knife turned out beautiful. The contrast between the two metals is striking.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching!

[@micahcampa]

well it is really only used on japanese made knives so you wont see them in In the american market unless it is costom

[@ryanmcafee666]

Just want to give a shout out man, because of what you taught in this video I was able to successfully forge my first cu mai this week.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks great, Ryan! Congrats! Email some pics to tyrellknifeworks at gmail for Viewer Knives. 👍

[@FarawayForge]

Absolutely gorgeous!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks!

[@nateand3]

I'm so glad you made this video. I've been seeing blades with copper in them and had no idea how they came to be. Lol this knife is absolutely beautiful man

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks Nate!

[@giovybez8061]

omg that is gorgeous. I've recently discovered your channel and I'll admit Ive been binge watching. Your work is top notch. Thanks for sharing.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Welcome to the channel! Thanks for following along!

[@Keegeth]

Your knives are pure art!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks so much! I appreciate you watching!

[@mitsmagic806]

Beautiful Killer 🤩

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for taking a look! 👍

[@AristotleLaoTzu]

The Lord has truly blessed you with talent. Your craftsmanship is superb!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks so much, Jimmy!

[@ThePatriotParadox]

Another awesome piece, really like the color scheme and how within you made the copper just pop.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for taking a look. This was my first try at copper. 👍

[@edthompson3353]

Wow. Unbelievable job. You continue to get better and that inspires the rest of us. Thanks

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks so much, Ed! I’m so happy you guys like the content! 👍

[@ohiovalleyforge5383]

That is an amazing process, love your work brother

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks so much! I appreciate you watching!

[@cals1775]

Now that’s a good looking knife! Thanks for making this video I’ve been curious about Cu mai for a while now and it was nice to see someone make a step by step video about making it

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching. I’m glad you liked it. Stay tuned for some cool builds coming up!

[@Aleeknives]

WOW Denis this was spot on! I have been anxious to try this one but with a hammer and no press! I suspected you didn't need to hit forge welding temperatures! That was some super strong G-10 😂😂😂😂 Your skill and dedication is awesome! The knife is beautiful! A+++

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks Airin! I loved this process and for sure I’ll be doing it again. That G10 was freaking me out for a good five minutes before I smacked my head and realized it was my drill press stop! 🤣

[@Aleeknives]

I wonder what it will look like after the copper forms different a patina. I think it could be really cool! Would you go thinner on the copper to get an accent but show less actual copper that is softer in nature?

[@dylanbennett3851]

This turned out absolutely beautiful! You do very clean work my friend, I love your videos. 👍🏻

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks Dylon!

[@prezzie1]

Yeah I am not the smartest guy in the world i honestly thought you was going to leave those holes in the handle as a feature. Boy i am glad i watched the whole video. Truly a stunning knife.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Haha.. no, that is known as "skeletonizing" a handle. It's to reduce weight and make the knife more balanced. If you don't do this, its handle-heavy. Thanks for watching!

[@dmark8993]

Absolutely beautiful knife

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks! I’m working on another similar but with another layer of copper. 👍

[@dmark8993]

@@TyrellKnifeworks can't wait

[@ZackofAllTradesct]

One of the coolest knives I've ever seen.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks Zack!

[@droberts573]

Like Always, Very Beautiful Knife

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for checking it out, Donnie!

[@kenh8979]

Thank you for the video and explaining each step - especially about forging the copper. I've now done a few copper blades with the knowledge you shared. I've started using my oven for heating since it's easier to hold a 1700 to 1800°F temp for setting the copper "weld". Thanks.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I’m glad it was helpful, Ken! 👍. Thanks for watching

[@HeavyForge]

Nailed it!!!! I said the same thing when I pulled my blade outta the quench!😂 Literally the best Cu-Mai video on KZbin. Also love the 45 degree bevel jig and how you used the file guide for the false edge! Definitely gonna be using those tactics.🔥⚒💪🏻

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks Spencer! It was cool collaborating with you. 👍

[@pup76]

Super special as always, you sir have great skill. Love the way it turned out.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks! Glad you liked it!

[@jumpnjack8686]

Beautiful! 💯👌👍👍👍

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching!

[@KnifeCursed]

That turned out really beautiful

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching!

[@bradymcphail9690]

I can’t wait to get to level of experience to make this! I’m going to get silly! I’ve seen many knives made with this type of CuMai, but your how to video was stellar!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks Brady! It really wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be. Or I got lucky, one of the two. 🤣

[@neilyakuza6595]

Wow amazing results. First time I have heard of this technique. Nice vid, Awesome knife!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks Neil!

[@lamproknives]

That is extremely cool

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks, hopefully it works out like I imagined!

[@pubgemobile4413]

Really really wow 😲,,,, I love ❤️ رائع سيدي الغالي ،،،،،،،

[@lukegraham1945]

Beautiful knife and very unique!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks! Glad you like it!

[@MARCELO-rm4ws]

excelente trabajo, te escribo desde Argentina, felicitaciones!!!!!!!!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

¡Bienvenido al canal! Gracias por ver

[@chrisjvales2]

Wow!!! Now I want to try some cumai

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching!

[@MrSoloun]

Great vid, that copper affect looks amazing, great stuff.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!

[@OriasBlades]

Your knife turn out so beautiful 😍😍😍😍. And love how detail your video to help someone want to try do a cumai knife 😍

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching!

[@DaRealdioactiveMan]

Wow, you are an amazing craftsman. I still got no idea if this was science fiction or a forging video. I'm definitely going to try this out by myself. Thanx for the video mate Greets from Germany

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Ha, no science fiction here! Thanks for the compliment and thanks for watching! 👍

[@Take_And_Make]

Wow! It did come out very nice! I wonder if one could do it without a press... Great Cu Mai Tyrell!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I’m sure you could do it without a press. It’s not a real forge weld so I think it would be easier. Thanks for watching!

[@bransonsgeneralstore]

I guess the term would be forge brazing instead of forge welding. I wonder if it would stick together with just heating and letting it cool without pressing.

[@bransonsgeneralstore]

Also wonder if something similar would work with brass or bronze. Might melt out before the steel is hot enough to forge. Maybe a stock removal billet and very careful heat treat.

[@HoutmeyersP]

@@bransonsgeneralstore Its not brazing since non of the metals in the stack needs to melt to get this accomplished...look up diffusion bonding dissimular metals on Wikipedia . Mokume gane , timascus , mokuti , zircoti , damast, san mai etc .....are all the exact same process by using heat and pressure. Only the metals used are different. I tried using brass a few times.....but its even more tricky since the meltpoint of brass is more than 200°f lower compared to copper.

[@HoutmeyersP]

Here's a photo of a testpiece i once did. Carbon steel , pure nickel , copper and brass in one piece scontent.fbru1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/133362178_3572775482804516_3972157443224739515_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&ccb=2&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=v13pWUAf-1cAX9bF9Z9&_nc_ht=scontent.fbru1-1.fna&oh=50698b0b2953b4924e36e5b0f7220d69&oe=600D9686 It can be done , but i do not think you can use this in torsion or feather damast. If you deform the billet to much the layers will shear off because they have a fifferent expansion rate.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I'm not sure it would stick without pressure. I do think that even doing this by hand with a hammer would probably work. Unless I got lucky my first try, this seemed pretty easy. 😜

[@shepardsforgeh2031]

Been wanting to try this along time man but no one shares the secrets! Thanks man I truely appreciate it!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching! I’m glad you liked the build.

[@907jl]

I'll tell you what I think.......it's beautiful!!!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for checking it out!

[@Drew_lininger]

I’ve never seen how to make cu Mai before! I need to try it! Thanks!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I'm glad you liked the build and learned something as well. Thanks for watching, Drew!

[@rodneylangstroth4577]

Awesome. Finally, something I would like to do. That's why I follow you

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching!

[@Jesse-Savvy]

Fantastic job man! 🍻

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching!

[@huntintrailmetals9343]

Nice knife brother you really outdid yourself on this

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks! Glad you like it!

[@RedBeardOps]

Looks awesome man! Very cool concept having the copper in the blade. 👍

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks!

[@normmaurice7508]

If u get a large gap in steel we use a buzz bar ( copper ) as a back up plate hit it with a small hammer and it fall off after u welded one side

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Good to know... thanks for watching!

[@jamesball7322]

Glad you decided to etch it and bring out the dark edge ,good work bro I’d love to see this done for feather 🤔😳

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

You can layer a feather over it but I don't think it would work to actually feather copper with the steel because it would end up on the edge. Thanks for watching!

[@jamesball7322]

@@TyrellKnifeworks I feel the same way about all Damascus actually,unless it has core steel I’m not a fan of Damascus for that reason I’ve looked through scopes to see the weld lines from pattern steel which is why I toss core into any of my new billets Maybe I’ll do up some feather with copper and toss a core in it 🤔✌️

[@timjackson5555]

Nice, asked another bladesmith that does this & was sort of vague in in description. After wiring new shop I'll give it a try.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

It’s actually a pretty easy process. Give it a try! 👍

[@timjackson5555]

Tyrell Knifeworks oh, real quick question. Were you at a bright orange? Noticed you mentioned not a welding heat, for me that's almost white.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

You want it hot enough to move the steel. You do NOT want forge welding heat or anywhere near that or you are going to melt the copper. Keep it between 1600 and 1800F. I hope that helps.

[@DBCraftWorld]

My suspicion was totally wrong- I thought that you will use the copper to kitchen knife, not to made cu mai! Denis, Great work!! As always :)

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Ha, thanks David!

[@puskarbista8972]

You are awesome bro

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching this build!

[@TalRohan]

This gives me a fantastic idea for a sculpture I have in mind, but I need to do some experimenting to see what hydrochloric acid etch does to copper first

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I would imagine hcl would eat up copper quick. Try it out and see. Thanks for watching!

[@TalRohan]

@@TyrellKnifeworks just been having a read and according to the internet Copper has no reaction to Hydrochloric at all so I should be good to use it layered into wrought iron take it to a high polish and it will only etch the iron....will let you see the result.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

@@TalRohan that’s good to know. 👍

[@anthonystrunk5360]

Looks good!...great job!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks!

[@bobgore1962]

Great video Denis! I had no interest in doing this, but after watching you, I have changed my mind! 😎👍🏻

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I’ve got another one of these coming up soon! That one should be pretty spectacular! 😮

[@blairlock]

Layout fluid markers 👍

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I don't have any of those but I should invest in some. Thanks for watching.

[@IonutJaR]

Waw that was supper !! congrats!!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching!

[@benrussellknives8828]

Thanks for the info and sweet knife.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching!

[@lovejcdc]

Absolutely amazing blade and fantastic job. You know what I was thinking what else would look freakin awesome, if you did that same process but instead make it a Japanese style blade with the same scales and pins. I say that because after you polish them it looks a lot like jade. That maple burl is absolutely stunning beautiful and reminds me of jade. Anyway awesome stuff man!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks! I may do a Japanese blade sometime in the near future.

[@shepardsforgeh2031]

Ok....I was going to ask how you protected the copper in the etch but now I know thank you! I am most definitely gona try this!!! Thank you!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Glad I could help!

[@WJBlades]

Great job Dennis! I started doing one of these about a year ago. I found out very quickly that you have to worry about how hot you get the copper. I side tabled it and haven't gotten back to it. I was very worried about how to heat treat a knife like that. You've answered a few questions for me maybe I'll give it another go soon. My tools are not as precise or sophisticated as yours I'm still a little worried. 😎

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

You’ll get it done! I was surprised it went so well. I really love this process and the outcome so you’ll be seeing more of it.

[@jonbottoms8988]

I now have a new challenge. That’s beautiful sir. I have used the JB weld 5 min stuff. Did not go well at all. I am now using the 650 G Flex. Many times better than JB.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I've never had a problem with the 5-min epoxy. I think folks sometimes don't mix it enough and that's the problem. Thanks for watching!

[@lockpickingengineer7458]

It’s looks very cool but how will it go on steel spike test? Or coconut chop? Etc. ….

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

It will do just fine. Remember the entire core and cutting edge is 1095 high carbon steel. The copper is just for looks and doesn’t affect the core strength. Thanks for watching

[@jandis8390]

Hermoso cuchillo

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Gracias por ver!

[@SonoraSlinger]

1084 likes to harden if you look at it funny. Makes drilling chaos sometimes, but also makes it great during heat treats

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching!

[@yandiwa4707]

Did you test your blade core hardness? You can see the limited but noticeable carbon migration toward the cu layer contact with core.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I only have hardness files but it skated a 60 before temper. The blade is plenty hard and the copper is far enough away that it shouldn’t be a problem. Thanks for watching.

[@andyc750]

the green is copper oxide, knife looks well cool

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching!

[@MrLeandroBJJ]

Ficou muito legal mesmo. Parabéns

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Obrigado! estou feliz por ter gostado. Obrigado por assistir!

[@JesusLopez-fc7bd]

Very nice whit a copper..

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching this build, Jesus!

[@mattgreef1676]

Hi mate from across the pond. Beautiful blade mate. The temperature is that Fahrenheit

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Yes, all temps are in Fahrenheit. Thanks for watching.

[@J.TurnerHandmadeKnives]

Do you have a video on the file jig you used for the false edge.?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Yes, I've done a video on that. Check back in the Triple-T videos. Thanks for watching, Jamie. (Note,I now use a tilting rest to do that much easier)

[@ReignForever]

When using a 1080 core, will the knife blade still rust? Also will the copper layer turn green eventually without proper maintenance? I havent started making samascus yet, but i am saturating myself with the knowledge and going to give it a try soon... I won't be starting out with any intricate designs like this, but i just ask the questions as they come up in my brain 😅😊

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

This is a carbon steel knife so it will rust if not cared for. I like to tell people, keep the steel from rusting and the copper will be just fine. The copper Bowie knife I’m most known for (on the cover of Blade mag Knives 2023) is now 3 years old and looks amazing still. Thanks for watching.

[@mjanzer1]

Instead of using 15n20 for the outer jacket do u think you could use stainless ? Would like to use 440c for the outside and 1095 for the core. Thank un

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Yes,, you could use stainless here. You wouldn’t get the carbon diffusion though, which is the cool effect that people look for with SS cladding because the copper is between them. Thanks for watching!

[@Grizz0220]

Can you do this same technique with brass?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

You can but it’s more difficult because brass has a melting point about 200F lower than copper. If you watch my more recent videos I’ve done this with pure silver and even 24k gold! 😉. Thanks for watching.

[@linda54wood]

This is my favorite knife yet. It's a stunner! Would brass or bronze be able to be used? Those against a high shined steel would pop too. And can Damascus be made from mixed metals?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for taking a look, Linda! If you haven’t seen the more recent “bowie on fire” build, definitely check that one out if you like this one! You certainly creat Damascus with different metals like brass, bronze, nickel, silver, etc. as long as it doesn’t end up on the cutting edge. Thanks for watching!

[@federicosona1610]

Doesn't copper leave a bad taste in food when you cut it with that knife? PS: excellent work, I can't wait to make a knife with the cu mai technique. Greetings from Argentina.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Never heard of any issues with copper and food. Glad to have you aboard! 😉

[@EvilWhiteColonialist]

I'm curious. 2 years later.... how's it holding up?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I haven't seen this one since, but I've seen others I've done and they look beautiful still. Thanks for watching.

[@shepardsforgeh2031]

And is it true that copper will destroy fericholoride and make it unusable?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I’ve heard this but I’ve used mine with some copper and it’s still fine. I have a pretty large volume of it though. I’m sure it would contaminate a small amount.

[@tamersayin3638]

bu bıçağı kullananların tecrübelerini merak ediyorum, bıçak yapımında bir devrim bu, kutlarım.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks for watching!

[@joshyingling]

Great stuff, you and I both have the same style of teaching and working lol. Leave in the human parts. Spilled my layout fluid, forgot my drill press stop..... hahaha beautiful knife

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks Joshua! Glad we have something in common . 😜

[@cryp2nite947]

Awesome! But I would have doubts about using it hard... Have you tested how well the "welds" hold?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

The welds are very strong, as strong as the copper that is. There’s no seams at all between the layers. The only issue would be scratches on the copper from heavy use, but that’s just aesthetics.

[@wallacehammond4825]

Liker the video. Why does everybody use copper in these builds instead of bronze or brass?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

The melting point of copper is 1984F which is about 200F higher than either bronze or brass. It’s still possible but much harder to forge those. Thanks for watching.

[@keithspencersr.6806]

Outstanding, beautiful with the copper, do you know anyone who is making and selling these knives?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks! This one is for sale and still available. Email me or hit me up on Instagram if you’re interested. (IG is in the description)

[@19Chrisi97]

Super nice Knife! Is it crucial that the Billet is welded up air-tight?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

You want it sealed so the copper can’t escape in case it gets too hot. Thanks for watching!

[@bilgaissa5831]

Does copper separate from iron over time?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Not if you take normal care of the knife. Thanks for watching.

[@Puppybreth242]

Awesome video! You were incredibly instructional. Do you think this process would work with copper alloys like brass/bronze? The alloys have lower melting points

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Hey Ty, I’m pleased you like the video! Using brass would work but the melting point is 1710F so it’s getting really close to your temps to move the steel. You’d have to be precise with your temps and not overheat it. Starting with thinner cladding so you don’t need to move the steel much would be advisable. 👍

[@PandaBearForge]

Looks great! I want to try this. Any idea if it would work with brass instead of copper? I do have some brass sheets laying around.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

It works with brass and bronze but it’s much more difficult because the melting point is about 200F lower so it’s easier to screw it up.

[@PandaBearForge]

@@TyrellKnifeworks Yep, I tried with brass and I couldn't get it to stick. Not sure if I had it too hot or squished it to hard. 2nd pass on my press and the billet split.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

@@PandaBearForge did you weld all the seams first? That helps you not lose the brass.

[@PandaBearForge]

@@TyrellKnifeworks I tried but sadly I mig weld like I'm flying in a helicopter! lol

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Lol, I suggest you try copper first, it’s easier.

[@zoscer2]

does this add any mechanical advantage to the knife?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

I wouldn’t say it adds a mechanical advantage. It looks pretty though! 😜

[@caseycardwell3308]

Very nice! It seems like the copper would be pretty soft after the heat treat. Does it seem like it'll be probe to scratching? What would happen if you tried chopping into wood with it? Also, do you have a video on handle shaping? I'd be keen on hearing your thoughts about size, ergonomics, etc.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

The copper is pretty durable, not like steel of course though. Batoning it into wood would probably scratch it too.

[@hanelyp1]

The quench would definitely soften the copper. Depending on the alloy, the steel temper might precipitation harden it again.

[@caddonati9620]

i tried to make something like that in past, but b3cause i am crazy i added a two layer of pure nickel. it was a big mess which welding temperature choose but knife went out in some how. May you tell me with welding temp did you get for this piece? thank you

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

You only need temps around 1700F. You definitely don’t want to go over 1900 or you risk liquefying the copper.

[@caddonati9620]

@@TyrellKnifeworks intact i bring a billet to 2100 F and nickel and copper looks like melted toghter but it is not possible anyway. thats is the result have a look instagram.com/p/CJTmMVZM10S/?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

If you're "forge welding" copper or nickel to steel and not steel to steel, 2100F is WAY too high of a temp. You're melting those non-ferrous materials. Stick to 1800 degrees max. Well, melting point of nickel is 2600F so you're ok there, but for copper that's way too high.

[@zt8401]

Where can I buy this knife! I want one sooo bad!

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Sorry, this one was sold a while ago. I make the copper ones on occasion so keep watching! 👍

[@ابوحسنقاووق]

جيدة جدا

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

شكر!

[@turbosport3954]

Just curious but when doing a cu mai go mai blade could 304 308 or 316 stainless for example work for the outer layers

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Yeah it might work. Though you’re not going to get the cool carbon migration that people think of with SS San mai since the copper would be between it. Thanks for watching.

[@turbosport3954]

@@TyrellKnifeworks would u be able to use brass plate instead of copper?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

@@turbosport3954 Yes its possible, but brass melts at about 1650F so its really tricky to forge it and not melt out the brass. Mostly people do this with an oven instead of a forge so they have precise heat control.

[@turbosport3954]

Oh yeah that makes sense

[@josephmaggard2317]

Would they be any way I could get you to send me a list of what you have in the copper Damascus I get my check tomorrow and would love to buy one

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Sorry, Joseph, this one is sold. I have no others in copper right now. What I have is (normally) in my Etsy shop (link in every video description). I’ve pulled it all down because it’s all going to the blade show in LA in Oct. If there’s a build you see on KZbin that I might still have and want to purchase but can wait until after the show to receive it, I’ll sell those and just mark them sold. I have the mosaic Damascus bowie, feather Damascus bowie, zebra twist hunter, 1095 hunter and the Loki dagger. If you’re interested in purchasing any of these, please email me (tyrellknifeworks at gmail) or hit me up on Instagram. Thanks for watching.

[@guerrero1972canalla]

Hola cual es la receta para el precloruro ferrico para usarlo con cobre? como diluir?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Lo mejor es mezclar cloruro férrico en una solución de agua destilada y férrica 4:1. Una vez que tengas eso, mezcla esa solución 2:1 con ácido muriático. Ése es el mejor grabador para cobre damasco. Gracias por ver.

[@guerrero1972canalla]

@@TyrellKnifeworks Gracias !! eres muy generoso al compartir tus conocimientos

[@ronsimpson143]

It would be interesting to do a timascus pattern (titanium Damascus) instead of the copper. And then do a ladder Damascus on the outside. Or have a copper bolster.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Titanium is really, really hard to forge weld to steel from what I’ve heard. Also I think there’s a patent on timascus. Not something I’m planning on trying any time soon I’m afraid. Thanks for watching!

[@tat255987]

So basicly brazing, for lack of a better term?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Yeah, it’s basically forge brazing.

[@Anderson-HandForged]

denis how do you etch the knife if regular ferric chloride? or with coffee? thanks i just made a small copper damascus knife and want to etch it corrcetly and not melt all the copper away thanks very much Mark

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

First you need a separate ferric bath. The copper will contaminate it. Next, remove 30% of your ferric in that container and replace it with muriatic acid. That will stop the copper from bleeding. I did coffee afterwards on that blade. Msg me if you have more questions. 👍

[@Anderson-HandForged]

Tanks so basicly instead of 3 parts ferric do 2 parts and 1 part murriatic to my distilled water?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

@@Anderson-HandForged No, mix your ferric 3:1 but fill your container up 2/3 with that. The last 1/3, just add muriatic acid. Basically if you already have ferric mixed, just remove a third and replace it with muriatic.

[@Anderson-HandForged]

@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks appreciate it denis

[@rifincurly6550]

The best 👍

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks!

[@afdd2-1.66]

OMG, ‘Harrison Ford’ in action.😂

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

LOL! Not sure about that but thanks. 😉

[@chefboyrdanbh]

What type of oven is that?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

It’s an Evenheat LB18. I love it!

[@spaknives]

Really digging your videos! I have watched this one like 8 times! Ha! You should do a video on your press. Show us the different dies and dimension of the dies. I am working on a press now so that would be cool! What material did you use for your large round drawing dies? Thanks

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Thanks! I’m thrilled you’re liking the content! I’ve done a video on the press, check my Triple-T videos. I think it’s #3. The dies are 5” squares so that you can turn them 90 degrees. The big rounding dies are actually from 1” square stock that i ground down on the grinder. 👍

[@spaknives]

@@TyrellKnifeworks I will definitely look for the video. dude having your dies square so you can turn them 90° is a great idea! I definitely will implement that in my build. Thanks for the reply

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Glad I could help. Checkout that video, it has a complete parts list. If you have questions, contact me and I can help.

[@Donaldpumps]

Why is there so many holes in the tang?

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Those are for weight reduction to balance out the weight of the knife so its not handle-heavy. Thanks for watching.

[@gregreed4068]

On making san mai with 416 stainless and 1084 whats the heat treat and can it quench in parks 50.

[@TyrellKnifeworks]

Yes, you are quenching the core steel, so 1084 would be Parks50. Thanks for watching, Greg

[@gregreed4068]

@@TyrellKnifeworks Thank you for answering me! Love your videos :D