FormD T1 v2.1 build update. Pneumatic tubing?

[@CeltyST96]

I love how clean your builds look and your testing methodology is supreme. Asked this in the last video too, but is there a possibility that you make a guide on how to make the in game overlay look like yours. its just too clean.

[@EIGAtech]

Thanks! Right, I should really get around to cover that.

[@CeltyST96]

@@EIGAtech thank you, would really appreciate that.

[@ghost-type]

Finally finished my build. Thank you for this video. I used it as a guide to help me build it.

[@martin28bln]

Excellent video - really keep on! I am also a FormD T1 owner with 4090FE on air, HPE240 and Eisbär Solo cooling a 13900K. I am using three A12x25 that means over the PSU I am using push/pull mode which improves a lot the airflow. Try it :P

[@whate1se]

No one asked

[@Slicktune]

What are your temps? Idle and under load

[@seanpaul211]

What's that temps like?

[@DalisYn]

Earned a sub this is such superb quality

[@italian316]

Microphone Pop Filters could help your audio and reduce or eliminate popping sounds when you're talking.

[@Aexeq]

Always love to see your vids! I'm currently using the T1 with Hudamod and side 280 radiator, but I'll go with a similar setup to yours very soon. Only difference will be, that ill be using an XR5 or 240GTS and some AS120 rgb fans to have some nice bottom lighting. My main cooling is done by a MoRa anyways. Also glad you moved to pneumatics now. If you have the room for it, the Festo full metal fittings look a bit nicer and I personally will move from 6mm to 8mm again. Keep it up!

[@EIGAtech]

Thank you! The Hudamod configuration is something I looked into as well. What GPU waterblock are you using?

[@Aexeq]

@@EIGAtech I was using the Comino 4090 block. Sold it due to someone else bugging me weekly about it and now I'm waiting on another waterblock for the FE

[@EIGAtech]

@@Aexeq 😵‍💫 That person must have been rather insistent. So the setup was/is hudamod with 280 side radiator, 25mm fans, LOBO and single slot waterblock? Really curious how something like that would perform, especially compared to a dual rad build like Optimum's. Still, I imagine that without the MoRa coolant temp would be hard to manage, and CPU temps would suffer especially when the coolant temp is in the 50s.

[@Aexeq]

@@EIGAtech it performs solid I'd say. Haven't run any extensive tests, but from the experience of others and my subjective observation it's on par with dual rad, since it makes up for the lost radiator surface by having less restrictive airflow. Huda is currently building a T1 with Hudamod, 4090 with EK Inox block, ST20HPE 280, SWP4, Lobo without pump and a acrylic plate instead, LO1UES as the actual pump top. The build already looks awesome in terms of technical execution and should push Hudamod to its limits. My next build on the other hand will utilise standard 240 rad and CPU side intake fans to "turbocharge" fan rad combo. Sag this first from Nazh and it did surprisingly well.

[@EIGAtech]

@@Aexeq Thanks for the insight, interesting stuff, will follow along on Discord. I'd for sure like to try my hand at something like that, but since there's no single slot block available for the 4090 FE, I think I'll just stick to this. With a few tweaks, maybe an aluminium top hat, I think this is as good as it gets for me in the T1.

[@RemFreeman]

Great video!! As someone new to the SFF computer space, this kind of video is mindblowing and hugely educational! Out of curiousity, would you be interested in making a video for a build like this where you go into the ins and outs of building a pc like this from start to finish, including how exactly to cable manage, appropriate ways to fill the reservoir, how and why to set up specific voltage for the CPU/GPU, etc? This was a great video, but I feel like there is still so much to learn for newbies like myself. Thanks so much and keep up the great work!

[@EIGAtech]

Thanks! Really appreciate your comment and feedback. I try to make each new video like this more informative, especially when covering areas that I feel aren't already covered well by other channels. I recommend you check out the SFF Gurus Discord server if you haven't already. It's a great source of information!

[@Grimlo9ic]

Man, this build (and this video, and those charts) is just fucking pretty.

[@EIGAtech]

Thank you!

[@twitsik8966]

I just cant see myself building in anything less than an ATX sized case, but respect to you lot that like things like this!

[@ahangoel]

Great video. I have a super similar setup with a 3090 + 7700x on a ST30 from alphacool. Temps are fine because I only game and I have a heavy undervolt, the only issues is that my Asus B650E-I has crazy coil whine, and the powersupply mount is not very confidence inspiring for me as I travel a lot with my build.

[@EIGAtech]

Thanks! My B650E-I has some coil whine as well, but it's not too bad. Definitely not dead silent like the B550i AORUS Pro I was using before.

[@_roob]

amazing build, i have a similar build, i7 13700k + 4080 FE with fractual lumen aio 280mm 2x noctua chromax, but formd black edition

[@Sabakoe737]

How are your temps. Did you undervolt the cpu?

[@_roob]

@@Sabakoe737 in gaming 70 degrees average, yes i did undervolt

[@josephgreve5101]

Whoa, what Afterburner theme is that? So clean!

[@EIGAtech]

It's the latest skin from NEPOS, you can find it here: www.deviantart.com/n-e-p-o-s/art/MSI-Afterburner-Dark-Theme-Skin-V6-981727547

[@tsbohc]

Absolutely love the cinematography in your videos! May I ask what electric screwdriver you are using?

[@EIGAtech]

Thanks! It's the Xiaomi electric screwdriver.

[@Horstelin]

That whine would make me crazy :P

[@EIGAtech]

Definitely something I'll try fixing by re-doing the build in the 3.25 slot mode. 🤔

[@chekote]

I have the same case but I used an AIO. I feel a lot more people would be willing to use this case if content creators didn’t make it seem like you had to make a custom loop.

[@EIGAtech]

That's a fair point. I'm also considering doing (yet another) video on full air cooling in the T1.

[@chekote]

⁠@@EIGAtechI had mixed results with air cooling. I couldn’t even keep a 5800X3D cool without undercooking it. There’s no way I’d be able to cool the 7950X3D that I have now. FYI: The AIO I am using now is the Corsair H100x RGB Elite

[@EIGAtech]

@@chekoteInteresting. Which air cooler were you using with the 5800X3D

[@chekote]

@@EIGAtech I used the Alpenfohn Black Ridge Low Profile CPU Cooler with Noctua NF-A9x14 Fan and duct

[@macfogi6438]

Which aio did you use

[@dejurniybizon294]

Phanteks e top, incearca fanurile sub radiator. Am vazut multe testuri si cred ca va fi mai racoritor pentru cpu

[@Cooper3312000]

The top hat would be a game changer if they made it out of the same CNC’d aluminum in Titanium finish. I would order two top and bottom. I ordered the V2.1 upgrading from the V1.1. This time in Titanium absolutely the best case so far imo.

[@Cooper3312000]

I moved from the Form I moved from the FormD T1 V1 to the Dan A4 H20 miss the build quality but love having more space and a hidden radiator compartment.

[@EIGAtech]

I wanted to build in the A4 but then decided to wait for the C4, and unfortunately it was out of stock (permanently, until v2 comes out) before I could get one. Still not sure what case I could tackle next...

[@kal8377]

Great build! Do you hear a lot of AIO pump noise?

[@SuchirKavi]

great video. curious as to why you chose to offset the gpu instead of going 3.0 and offsetting the motherboard? also, is there any feature of the case that supports that side of the gpu in the absence of your bracket?

[@elteacher0223]

thanks a lot!!! I was looking for minimal and clen tubes... thanks

[@lhbbq]

@eiga - Now that you have lived with the Modultra block. What do you like and dislike about the block?

[@EIGAtech]

It's a great block, hard to find any faults with it really. Maybe the mounting hardware could be better, as I'm not a fan of the plastic spacers, it's pretty difficult to know when to stop as they provide little feedback that they have bottomed out.

[@lhbbq]

@@EIGAtech - Lastly, what about the noise of the DCC pump on the actual block? I am considering either separating the pump from the block or using the pump on the block. I want an amazing performance, but I do not want a noise maker either.

[@EIGAtech]

@@lhbbq I think it depends on how restrictive the loop is, In my case, I need to run the pump at 15% or less, anything higher and it’s definitely audible. A DDC pump is way overkill for this kind of loop and 100% sounds like a plane taking off 😅.

[@lhbbq]

@@EIGAtech - Thank you so much!

[@mundhireltahir]

I’m building a similar setup, but with AIO instead. I wonder what your PBO setting here is. 🙏🏾

[@DalisYn]

Per your gpu sag bracket. I’d love to see a thorough 3D printing guide. What software you used, how you measure for angles , height, etc. there isnt really any 3D printing guides on youtube and the ones that are still leave so many questions .. if you think it is possible? thanks

[@EIGAtech]

Thank you for the sub! Maybe I will dive deeper into something like that in the future. But there's no secret to the process. I measure distances with calipers or rulers. If I can't get a measuring tool in a tight place I find something that fits in that space and measure that +/- some guesstimates. For the bracket I made sure the GPU is sitting perfectly level by lifting it up with improvised supports underneath, then I measured the distance relative to the front panel and the rail mounting above. Once I had a few good known measurements that I could rely on I started drafting designs in Fusion 360.

[@yungcris]

Nice build, please get a windscreen for your microphone the plosions through every "P" in the video made this hard to listen to.

[@ji-26]

Wow you pretty much have the same exact build as me. I just have the x670e version of the board and used barbs and soft tubing. Can't say I'm a fan of the 7950x3d I actually have the freq CCD turned off because I can get a better pbo offset with it off and get more constant boost at 5250 on the 3cache for gaming. If I get more free time I want to see if I can get the 3dcache to hit 5.4 with 6400mhz on the ram. Mind posting your Fan control config file. I have been too lazy to optimize mine and would appreciate your expertise on it. I also have a temp Senors so should be the same.

[@JadedTea]

Is this setup in 3 slot mode or 3.25? I can't tell because in the beginning you say you are building it in 3.25 but at the end state to run it in the true 3.25 slot mode to get rid of gpu fan noise. I don't understand

[@EIGAtech]

The strut is in 3.25 slot but the GPU is in 3 slot mode by using 5mm standoffs on the riser. I haven't tested it but true 3.25 slot is probably better for avoiding fan turbulence, however, in that configuration there's going to be no gap between the GPU and PSU so I wouldn't really recommend doing that. I'll have a new video soon that's going to be air cooling focused and I will go into fan turbulence and noise again.

[@JadedTea]

@@EIGAtech ah ok got it

[@abdolkarimmehrparvar6583]

Thanks for not uploading each solution as a separate video, how we can buy that pump_ heatsink setup?

[@leiratam]

I'm concerned if the neumatic tubing would stress the water pump

[@EIGAtech]

DDC pumps are quite robust, there’s not much that can break other than the bearing / bearing contact, and I imagine you’d hear it if that was the case. That said, I did run into issues with air pockets on this particular build after about 6 months of use. The build didn’t have any leaks but somehow an air pocket kept forming in the pump, and the CPU temps would hit hard shut down temps. I decided to scrap the build in favor of my recent “ultimate” air cooled build.

[@JadedTea]

One more question, how did you manage to mount the fans to the top radiator? I know you can just use the pressure on the top panel to squeeze them but I feel better knowing they’d be screwed down. Did you just cut a 6/32 screw and use that to fasten it down?

[@EIGAtech]

I used some short flat head 6/32 screws. You can see them at 7:30. I only used two per fan because the flat head was too large in diameter and some ... force had to be used. But it works.

[@pk2689]

Nice work! After experiencing building in the new top clearance without the hat, do you think an AIO + slim fans would be possible? I'm planning this build with a 4080 but don't want to spend a ton of money on fittings and a custom CPU block.

[@EIGAtech]

Thanks! You should check the SFF Gurus discord group, plenty of AIO builds there and a lot of info.

[@ghost-type]

There is an aluminum top hat, but it's quite a bit more expensive. Though, I'm sure it looks heaps better than the 3D printed one.

[@EIGAtech]

Hmm… which one do you mean?

[@ghost-type]

@@EIGAtech on the site, I saw an aluminum option for the top hat. It's listed if you check their site.

[@EIGAtech]

@@ghost-type Ah, I see the option now. It was never sold however, and I think for the time being the project is on hold.

[@ghost-type]

@@EIGAtech I hope they bring it back. Aluminum would definitely make it match the premium feel to the overall build.

[@tx47e]

how are the tubing and fittings holding up?

[@EIGAtech]

Funny you should ask. I have been having an issue with coolant loss but no leaks. I am going to be working on a new video and I will address this and any potential findings.

[@palps797]

@@EIGAtech how did you mount the Noctua fans to the radiator

[@EIGAtech]

@@palps797 You have to get a bit creative there. In the video I am using short screws that sit inside the fan screw channel. Simplest method is to use nothing at all, the fans will be held in place by the top panel as there should be pretty much 0 gap between them.

[@palps797]

@@EIGAtech Thank you so much

[@palps797]

@@EIGAtech also where did you buy the Barrow thread reducers

[@MythyHiro]

Great video what screws did you use for the NF-A12x25 in the build im having a problem with the screws not letting the top panel close

[@EIGAtech]

I used some short flat head screws (5mm length), you can see this at 7:26. You need 6-32 thread pitch screws (not metric) and ideally something with a head diameter that's not too big (mine was, and I only used two for each fan). Hope this helps!

[@caliusseytoh9564]

For the top hat part, are the fan suppose to be on top the rad? And what material was used?

[@EIGAtech]

The top hat was a prototype I received from FormD, not sure on the material. Fans can go either on top of the radiator or underneath. I recommend watching the video for my newest build in the T1 here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gHTMo2OpbMiFnM0

[@jaywye]

The production quality is absurd. You need more subscriptions.

[@EIGAtech]

Thanks, much appreciated! I try to improve with each new video.

[@levispartan1993]

the b650e-i has a thermal sensor pin so u don't need the quadrom save space use bios :)

[@EIGAtech]

I am. The Quadro was used in the old build. That said, I am thinking of using the Quadro again, mostly so I can avoid the unnecessary 100% ramp up that the pump does during boot when attached to the motherboard's PWM header.

[@levispartan1993]

The ramp up doesn't bother me as much as wire clutter

[@seankillar123]

Hello. Im clueless in which spec should i choose brass thread insert for brackets I find that there's multiple options

[@wk2482]

Hi! Can the pneumatic fittings rotate freely once tightened?

[@EIGAtech]

Hi! Yes, they are rotary. However they are quite stiff and they can easily unthread from the G1/4 thread if rotated counterclockwise. Still useful for making sure they are facing the desired way.

[@brianlove3369]

Having a very hard time locating a 6mm quick disconnect

[@EIGAtech]

The quick disconnects are normal g1/4 with 6mm pneumatic fittings on each end.

[@brianlove3369]

sorry I meant 8mm not 6mm, but may go external will have a lot of wasted fitting if I go air cooling

[@user-os2bd8pk9u]

@EIGA Great vid! Just ordered the CNC version of the 4090 bracket and mount from JLCPCB but really need more info for doing thread tapping when it gets here...I see M3x5 countersunk but could you point me to exact source of M3x5 black anodized screws I need? Also, do I need a brass insert for CNC version? Do I need to know what thread size and thread pitch is ideal for doing thread tapping on CNC version? 6-32 maybe? Sorry I've never done this before and am hoping I didn't bite off more than I can chew. Thanks a million for for long comment here

[@EIGAtech]

Thanks! There is a .pdf technical drawing in the CNC files .zip. The thread that needs to be tapped is M3 with a depth of 5mm. Brass insert is inly for the 3D printed version. You need one M3x8 and two M3x5 countersunk screws just like the ones the case came with (can just use those, as you should have extras).

[@EIGAtech]

P.S. The technical drawing should be submitted when ordering the part, so it's clear which hole needs to be tapped and to what specifications.

[@user-os2bd8pk9u]

@@EIGAtech I better dig that PDF up and try to submit to JLCPCB's Customer Service to include with my order..really hope they can take care of that thread tapping. Thanks again so much, really love the channel!

[@EIGAtech]

@@user-os2bd8pk9u Any luck?

[@eddiekim2475]

What is the diameter of the m3 thread? Also, did JLCPCB do the anodizing as well? And how much did they charge?

[@Worldbummler_101]

due your claim to focus also on productivity ...did you do a cinebench 23 multicore test, i wonder what the temps are. Im running right now also a delidded 7950x3d but with the direct die cooler of thermal grizzly with a custom waterloop in a v2 formdt1 with a regular thickness 240 rad + 2x 15mm noctua fans, if you want a drop of cpu temps of about 20°C change to direct die cooling, but be aware, waranty is voided by delidding. Im topping out the cpu temps in cinebeng r23 mulitcore at 75°C (open sidepanels) 78°C (closed sidepanels) pulling 137 watts singlecore (gaming) ~65°C pulling 60 Watts if you wonder where to put the pumprez combo i can recommend the alphacool DC-LT 2 (small and perfectly silent) eager to know the developement of your build.....keep going!!😁😁😁😁💪💪💪💪

[@brianlove3369]

Would this tubing have enough flow to add a GPU block for the 4090 and a side radiator?

[@EIGAtech]

I would go one step up in tubing size for full custom loop.

[@kevinle1556]

That build looks so clean! Does anyone know if that anti-sag bracket will also be compatible with a 4080 Super?

[@EIGAtech]

Thanks! The dimensions of the new 4080 Super FE remain identical, so as long as it still has the M3 holes at the rear (under the magnetic cover) it should fit. I haven't been able to find any photos of the rear part to 100% confirm it though, maybe someone else can reply to confirm.

[@lodedh9227]

Hey, what’s is that super speakers ? 😍

[@meltahir]

I’m going for the same build, but I want to air cool instead. Which AIO would you recommend? Thanks

[@EIGAtech]

I have a new video coming up soon that will be fully air cooled. For any AMD Zen4 CPU I recommend skipping any AIO and going for the Thermalright AXP90-x47 full copper.

[@meltahir]

@@EIGAtech - wonderful, can’t wait to see the video. How soon? 😅

[@matthewrezuke8130]

Where can you get the top cover?

[@avraw]

how did you manage to fit two 25 mm fans at the top. The official specs say 1 slim and 1 25 mm can be installed. Can you help

[@EIGAtech]

The TX240 radiator is slim enough to allow for that

[@raywang9803]

May I ask what software you use to desigh that bracket at 4:25?

[@EIGAtech]

It's Fusion 360.

[@raywang9803]

ty@@EIGAtech

[@anobeus4814]

which program did you use to make these models? stl and step files

[@EIGAtech]

I use a hobby license of Fusion 360

[@arturb5152]

Can i Asi You about The lcd You youse in The video ?

[@matttttt3o]

my 4090 FE does NOT have the magnetic pnel for the anti sag !? 😢

[@EIGAtech]

Are you 100% certain? Fairly certain all of them have it.

[@dejurniybizon294]

Nu e strasnic daca va curge pe 4090?)))

[@acadjukanovic6855]

Next year I want to make the same build as yours in formd t1 v2.but I want to add:hgst huh721212ale600. Is it somehow possible?I was thinking between psu and card to put it.But i need to finde some psu that is thinner then corsair sf750,hdplex 800w or 2x 400w?

[@EIGAtech]

There isn't anything smaller than a SF750, and I don't have experience with HDPLEX power supplies or how they work. I don't see where that hard drive could fit, why not go for an external rack though?

[@acadjukanovic6855]

@@EIGAtech I have a collection of series and movies from the 90s, it brings me back to my childhood and good times, so I im looking to save it in the best way I can.I looked at some reviews for that hard drive and it seems to be the most reliable.T1 For me is art,the best thing we have today so I'm looking for everything to fit in it.I don't know,if you put a plastic extension, on bottom might have space to fit in that hard drive.

[@EIGAtech]

@@acadjukanovic6855 Hmm, maybe. If the top/bottom extensions make it to market that could be doable with some mods. But if the collection is that important, I would still advise against putting into the T1, especially next to watercooled components. I still think an external solution would be better, maybe even with two drives instead of one (even an off-site backup if you have rips that cannot be found elsewhere).

[@_roob]

what software you use to see the status?

[@EIGAtech]

It's a custom overlay made with RTSS

[@CosminOtz]

I'd like to know what monitor are using, thanks.

[@EIGAtech]

Hi! It's the LG 27GP950, very happy with it.

[@CosminOtz]

@@EIGAtech thanks

[@jonvice1217]

can we use petg for the side bracket? it's the only thing I have available

[@EIGAtech]

For the anti-sag bracket you mean? Of course, the one I had in this video was PETG as well.

[@jonvice1217]

@@EIGAtech OH BET!

[@hectamus_]

What Afterburner skin is that?

[@EIGAtech]

Look for N-E-P-O-S on deviantart.com edit: www.deviantart.com/n-e-p-o-s/art/MSI-Afterburner-Dark-Theme-Skin-V6-981727547

[@anobeus4814]

could bracket fit on 2.0 version?

[@EIGAtech]

It should fit the same, yes. Let me know how it goes if you try it.