Frigidaire / Kenmore Electric Stove 6" Simmer Select Burner Element Troubleshooting

[@MrDaryca]

Excellent explanation, thanks

[@andyf80]

Very informative Bill, thanks!

[@geojor]

good info Bill, thank you...

[@deee2402]

Great video

[@angrylefty7953]

My select summer it’s on the power element front left I replace the board and now nothings working just on the power element But when I press semi select the light comes on going to try and replace the switch but it is getting continuity

[@katherineakylas6768]

I would like to show me how to use the glass burner with a sensitive temperature.

[@Youtuber-xs9cp]

what the model number of the range and part number of the board you were working on?

[@popsmccartney435]

Thanks again for the great videos.

[@BillNewberry]

+Pops McCartney Your very welcome. I'll be doing one on the warmer zone burner next, then after that if there's anything you want to know about this stove let me know.

[@dsquires8]

Does this board contain a transformer? Looks like two relays. Is that correct?

[@Kalkaekie]

Good one !!

[@drdave8009]

Great video, Bill, but I have a question. On my stove, the burner that has simmer select is a 9" burner. The continuity test on the burner reads about 18 ohms versus the 46 ohms you show in this video for the 6" burner. Does that sound about right? At least it's not an open (i.e. a total lack of continuity). The power to the switch test is OK (less than 1 ohm resistance). With the switch in to off position, there is a short (

[@magladd]

dr dave - did you ever get an answer or solve your problem? I'm having the same issue with my 9" simmer burner. I have a 40+ ohm reading on the burner so it seems ok. Can't find anything obvious (e.g. burn marks) on the simmer select board or the switch. Hate to just guess and order the wrong part. looking for tips on how to isolate the problem. BTW - I did put a volt meter across the P2/P3 and P2/P4 lugs of the simmer board and got no reading (stove was plugged in but burner switch was off). Thought I should have seen voltage across one of those connections but not sure I'm testing it correctly.

[@angrylefty7953]

I’m having the same problem mine is on the left front power element and works when on simmer select is on but doesn’t work when off so no power element? I get the 120w but not 240w

[@angrylefty7953]

Now I’m not getting anything on that burner

[@jrokcer27]

Anybody get an answer to this? I am having the issue with the element heating with simmer select but won’t heat up when you turn the range on with the knob.

[@fahimzaywari5318]

4 burner are not working. Can I by pass simmer select ?

[@billshank1492]

Bill I have a Kenmore glass cook top stove 9641340E the simmer select burner is the large burner on the front left. one day I pressed the simmer select button and heard a loud pop and now the burner doesn't work at all do you think the switch is bad or the burner

[@dougwilder8602]

Just happened to me.Found exploded capacitor on lock out board

[@TippyPuddles]

Bill is no longer with us but we can help each other. I'm grateful for his videos he left for us. This happened to me also but I was wiping the knob and thought water got into the knob and shorted it out. I replaced my burner and the simmer select works but not the whole burner. Replacing the switch next.

[@TippyPuddles]

Update; I discovered the little plastic red button that glows to tell you the burner is on broke. The switch behind it made contact with the metal on the stove. The spade connector melted and I'll replace it. This is the switch with 250V.

[@onyxspirals]

The simmer select light on my stove won’t turn off. I’d appreciate any suggestions from the community. If the fix is technical, I may just have to live with it.

[@lgmnowkondo938]

can you just completely bypass the simmer select board and functionality?

[@fredtepfer5988]

Yes, I did bypassed ours recently after seeing your comment a couple of weeks ago. We have a Frigidaire/Kenmore with a Simmer Select burner that suddenly died, and I found Bill's video when I was trying to figure out if I could fix it. If you look at minute 4:19, showing the board that controls Simmer Select, n Bill's excellent video, you pull off the connector that goes onto P2, P3, and P4 on the right side of the board. On our range, P2 and P3 are the element wires in and out, so I simply created a jumper that connects these two pins on the connector (which has been pulled off for clarity in the video) using push connections and compatible wire. I also pulled off the other connector on the left side of the board, and taped on a note explaining that the simmer select board was dead and that my changes bypassed it. The Simmer Select function is gone (not that we ever used it), and otherwise the range works perfectly. A few cents in parts instead of $500+ for a new range. If anyone else does this, be sure to trace the wires to make sure your oven is wired the same as this one. All of the wire colors in ours were different, the burner size was different, but the board itself looked exactly the same. Many, many thanks to Bill and his excellent video, and in particular the circuit diagrams and the clear explanations. Couldn't have done it without it, for sure.

[@jrokcer27]

⁠@@fredtepfer5988hey you said your summer select burns suddenly died, are you talking about the switch or the actual heating element? I’m having a brain buster with what I have going on. When I hit the simmer select the heating element will heat up but when the Somme select isn’t pressed and I use the knob it doesn’t do anything, but I am getting 240 at the element when testing at the lines coming into the element. Would the simmer select board or button keep the element from heating even tho I am getting 240 at the element? The infinite switch tested fine and so has the burner. My only other thought was a relay board?