Front Strut assembly removal 9th gen Honda accord

[@NextLevelAutoDiagnosticsLLC]

You're brave for doing such a big job in the rain. The struggle is real whenever doing suspension or exhaust work in the driveway on jackstands. I've been there!

[@tecitez16]

Best video yet. Attempted this before without watching and failed. Read lots of post mentioning the control arm. I know that messes with the alignment, no thanks. This way is lengthy but doable.

[@ghaithghaith2985]

مرحبا علي.. بلا زحمه عليك وين أكدر الكَي الراجز المفتوح إلي حضرتك إشتغلت بي؟ دورت عليه بالهوم ديبو وبالهاربر فرايت وماكو, جداً عملي و أول مره اشوف هيج راجز. تحياتي

[@rathanickheng]

Nice only if this video came out before I did my installation. I installed Megan ez II back in 2015. Had to take the lower control arm out. Pain in the ass putting back the 14mm. 6 years later replacing front knuckles/ hit the median goin go up the highway ramp at 50mph. Smh. Going to try out your method. Thanks

[@SAr-vc3iw]

For a 2017 honda civic touring what would be the torque spec for front struts the 3 flange nuts on top each side?

[@MICHEAL_SCOTTT]

Big O tires shop wants to charge 6 hours of labor time to replace both front struts . is that how long it takes to do this ?

[@robbobcat7286]

thanks this video helped this job is not for the weak. had all i could do to get the balljoint separated

[@nearpar]

Why didn't you show removing the end link?

[@euhza18]

Part 2 how to put it back on

[@Carloscda40]

Thanks for the video. Just did my struts yesterday and your process was overkill and time consuming. You just need to remover the 2 14mm control arm bolts that are in the middle and the tie rod ball joint after that it will slide out after a few pounds with a hammer.

[@AliHamza-ls8xm]

You are lucky that you didn't strip the threads of those 2 14mm bolts. As its aluminum crap you are dealing with. I tried the way you are saying at first i tried all possible ways so i wouldn't have to take the spindle out...but since working on jack stands at home theres not much leverage and you can take it out but to realign everything to insert those 14mm bolts is a pain. That also putting load on the axle as it has less support. I also tried the other ways that people are mentioning i literally stood on the knuckle so that it would release the strut tube but it didnt even moved. So me coming to this conclusion was not easy as i know there will be some critism and im ok with that. I would like to see someone do it in a better way thats less risky and efficient. And record and post a video. All the videos i have seen doesn't have any process of take apart and put back they just tell you what they did and after results. Thats not the way. Show the steps and struggle to put it back together that will determine which way is easier. Even till date i dont think there's any video showing detailed steps of this process.

[@Carloscda40]

@@AliHamza-ls8xm Yea it's a pain to just put them in! What I did was use my jack to line the holes up then put them back in. The passenger side was a pain but the drivers side went right in. Don't know if you've seen this? www.driveaccord.net/threads/diy-how-to-remove-front-and-rear-struts-shocks.449729/

[@AliHamza-ls8xm]

@@Carloscda40 it is indeed theres lot of load on the control arm for it to be properly aligned. I had striped one of the bolts threads in the process the first time i did it. The threads where stripped while actually taking bolts out due to load situation. I tried using jack but didnt help much. I had to repair those threads which wasn't fun either and is not recommended. All in all its just poor engineering i don't see reason why honda always likes to be complicated like this as i dont see any advantage of this type of setup over a conventional one as in the end its an McPherson type strut. I worked on many toyotas atleast when it comes to struts its quick and simple. I think now they have finally adapted the simpler design on newer models. For me this setup is a nightmare that i wouldnt want to ever work on it again. Thats why i didnt go for coilovers as i do a lot of daily city driving and i dont wanna have to deal with more complications, adjustments or frequent replacements.

[@datawind3296]

I'm not sure he needed to remove both the Caliper and Rotor and the whole Knuckle to replace the Strut. But I own a different year and things may be different on a 2016.

[@chillwillmuzik7114]

he didnt,was a bit overkill.maybe he thought the arm would be heavy when all bolts were off? not sure but this is how those shiesty machanics get you lol

[@edubb2491]

2016..is 9th gen

[@WiiZKiiD23]

You can do it the LCA way but if you strip the bolt then good luck.

[@anthonynieves6614]

You dont have to take the brakes apart bro there is another way with out taking that out

[@hustle100]

Great Video

[@srizvi7283]

I have a 2017 accord hybrid exl, lately it’s been bumpy/bouncy especially over bumps, the front scrapes so can you guide me to what needs to be replaced? I figured shocks but I can’t seem to find any good ones so can I settle for coilovers? Thanks!!

[@AliHamza-ls8xm]

Yea sounds like suspension issue if front scrapes that could be clearance issue but shouldn't happen as height is determind by the spings not dampers, but if you ve been driving around with bad shocks for a a while you possibile have damaged the springs too, anyways its recommended to change both when replacing not just dampers. I bought Tein's street basis coilovers but haven't gotten chance to put them on those definitely reduce your ride height by an inch or more at minimal/no adjustment, i put them on and took them out as the car went low to the ground and i have factory stock 16" rims looks like crap so until you are gonna upgrade your wheels too just slamming wont look good. Thats probably the cheapest and reliable coilovers out there cost like under $500 for all 4, you will have to but new mounts or tops as they are designed to use factory strut mounts. But think over it, it all depends where you drive how you drive how often and road conditions. And it will require adjustments after installation as well as alignment so just be sure what you getting into. Low to the ground means harsh ride as well as more chances of popping your tires when hitting big potholes, also would scrape when going off the ramp or hitting speed bumps.

[@srizvi7283]

Ali Hamza I drive every single day in NYC so I guess coilovers is a no no. I’ll just get oem shocks if I can find them! Appreciate you taking your time out to reply brotha, thanks!

[@AliHamza-ls8xm]

@@srizvi7283 your welcome bro yes for nyc i would definitely not recommend as it will cause more damage to your vehicle as well as dropping changes how the load is distributed putting more pressure on suspension components. Frankly its more for cosmetics then performance and noone knows better than those engineers who desgined the car. You will see low suspension setting from the factory on cars that are producing big horses for better cornering and prevent body roll.

[@AliHamza-ls8xm]

@@srizvi7283 oem shocks you can get them either at hondapartsnow.com for cheaper than dealer you can compare prices or heeltoeauto.com, yes and get oem they will be expensive but totally worth it last longer ride better and fit right. But i dont think it comes preassembled you would have to order the damper, spring, mount and the top nut individually for both sides and have them assembled at local shop which have spring compressor, do not try compressing them at home with autozones rental coil compressors as that may do unevenly and damage the spring. Or just get it all installed at dealer it will be a big price tag but will save you hassle later.

[@srizvi7283]

Ali Hamza thanks for all the info!! I went around looking for the struts but can’t find the rears anywhere! Mechanic won’t recommend anything either because I won’t order through them lol

[@nyrider8396]

How long do oem struts last? My 2013 accord has 133k and still on oem struts, seems to ride good still.

[@JesusChrist-ks3id]

Compared to my 95 Del Sol my 2016 Accord has pissed me off beyond belief trying to work on.

[@AlahuSnackbar]

what a pain in the rear. I'm in the middle of doing all of this and i did not now you have to take apart the entire wheel

[@jimtom6366]

If you look at alldata and Chilton this is the procedure they use to remove struts! They do not recommend loosening the LCA!!!!

[@livingstonify]

I have done it several times by removing the LCA. It's a total nightmare trying to align the bolts to get it back on with the new strut in place! This is the right way to do it but must sequence the removal and have the ball joint removal tool. An impact wrench helps to remove the 36 mm axel nut. Thanks Ali for posting this!!!

[@spxlazy]

Do you need to do tire alignment after this?

[@ismaelsalazar8129]

This is the way to do it forsure. Its perfect,especially after seeing your other video with the ball joint get to knock out both things without having to pry and struggle. Only had a question, do you know the torque specs for the Axel nut cant seem to find it. Thanks

[@AliHamza-ls8xm]

Thanks bro the nut for the axle that connects with the hub has to be tightened to torque spec of 242 ft.lbs. i have a 300 ft.lbs torque wrench that i use for it. You can grab one from harbor freight for $80 -20% coupon they have valid till end of this month. I ordered one from lowes because harbor freight didnt had it when i needed it. Or you can rent one from autozone probably. But remember that torque wrench has 3/4 head so you would need an adapter that will convert 3/4 to 1/2 head so you can put standard 1/2 " socket harbor freight has that adapter as well for like $5 .The nut itself is 36mm i think.

[@ismaelsalazar8129]

@@AliHamza-ls8xm Nice thank you bro great upload

[@AliHamza-ls8xm]

@@ismaelsalazar8129 coming up is rear hub assembly removal soon. Its a pain in the rear as well due to this car being so much rust prone everything is a fight when taken apart first time.

[@halimkillo4992]

Why you need to remove the whole thing man? Just remove the tie rod and pry the knuckle down and you should be able to remove the strut

[@MrSzymonurai]

Lol...you can't. It just doesn't go far enough. Seems like it should says it in Haynes Manual...but it doesn't

[@dwanray4521]

Lol 😂😂😂

[@augustojunior5906]

How many miles supost change ?

[@AliHamza-ls8xm]

Mileage is secondary it really depends upon the driving conditions city driving with quick stops and pot holes and how many hours a day you drive will determine the age , usually the shocks should last you good for 50-60k miles , but I’ve seen cars with 100k miles with shocks still in decent condition. If you use oem shocks then you can expect it to endure and perform for longer time. I had to change mine every 2 yrs as I was literally driving 40k miles a year and nyc conditions, If you feel your ride is bouncy or losing traction or while braking the whole car leaning substantially forwards, and too much roll while turning perhaps it’s the time, also you can check the shock itself to see if there’s any oil residue on it usually seals that keep the oil inside the shock eventually fail and oil starts to leak out. And remember everything that’s in pair must be changed in pair. You just don’t change one shock, also it’s recommended to change all 4 at once. Also when replacing shocks make sure the rubber boot cover is in good shape and if not replace it protects the rod from contamination of oil and can result in premature failure of seals inside as it goes in and out of the tube.

[@augustojunior5906]

@@AliHamza-ls8xm thank you friend for the comment my honda accord is with 121k miles and just now a little noise started on the right side

[@NeoAndersonReloaded]

You dont need to remove axle or brake components

[@mercy5478]

Dude took apart 4 things that don't even need touched lol 😂

[@dwanray4521]

Can u show me how u do it quicker way?

[@jfishingoutdoors1490]

Buddy did like 3-4 things you didn’t have to do at all took me 2 hours to put front an back coils overs in

[@Skate767]

How To Replace Honda Accord 9th Gen (2013 - 2017) (Passenger Side) Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly Click Below ⬇️ kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5mzl4mLe5hge5o

[@NeoAndersonReloaded]

Mayb 3 hr

[@IvanHernandez-wc2ke]

30 min a side

[@joshainsw]

Nice story bra, post a video of you doing it since you are the expert.

[@happy1531]

I had a 2013 accord..worse design ever..it took me over 6 hours each side.i had the lower control arm off the calipers, tie rods and the axle off and it still would not go on...finally put it in all together and was afraid of stripping the 2 14mm bolts... I still don't understand how to put it back in or do i want to work on it again..i literally had the entire suspension out i sold the car..best day of my life

[@AliHamza-ls8xm]

Design is definitely more complicated without any benefit. Weird part is that the subframe is half aluminium and half steel or cast iron...glued together somehow possibly weight saving purposes but truly dumb idea. And yes that leads to stripping of 2 - 14mm bolts holding the control arm on aluminium side, 3 bolts holding it onto the steel/iron side are no issue. And i can tell you this if you or anyone didnt put those 2 -14mm by hand atleast half way you had stripped the threads and you will come to know about it the next time when you will need to change the control arms. Lot of people had been telling me i shouldn't had to take the whole hub out and trust me i didn't wanted to i wouldve avoided it at very best but it will be very likely resulting in stripping of threads otherwise even the slightest pressure or uneveness will cross thread the aluminum threads with steel bolt unknowingly. To fix it either thread inserts or sort of helicoil(that im sure wont be safe)or will have to change the entire subframe. This fuel economy competition has led to the production of total trash.

[@AliHamza-ls8xm]

Now a days it takes me say in total 20-30 mins to take apart one side. And probably about same to put it back. Over all i did the job both sides within 2hrs. With proper torque and greasing and ball joint relplacement. So its better than running the risk of damaging something unfixable. Moog ball joint costs like $20 and the axle nut like $2 a piece saves headache for later. Service manual recommends changing of lower ball joint if it has been seperated from control arm as well as the axle nut and torquing axle nut to 242ft.lbs of torque only or else risking damage to bearings. Ofcourse when i took it apart first time took me longer as everything was rusted and seized up. I had to use pullers to seperate that axle from hub. So always a good idea to use anti- seize in rust prone areas. So next time it will be easy to take it apart again.

[@AliHamza-ls8xm]

@@CurrentOutcast you wont be able to while the whole hub assembly sitting on it and putting load on the arm. And thats how exactly it strips. You will have to first install the control arm then put the shock tube inside the hub assembly and tighten the pinch bolt so the shock will hold the weight of the hub, then press down on the control arm to insert the ball joint of spindle(hub seembly)

[@AliHamza-ls8xm]

As per the procedure that i have demonstrated you dont have to remove the control arm bolts just the ball joint which may seem a lot of work but you dont want to end up with stripped threads on a aluminum subframe. And rule of thumb never use impact gun while inserting/ removing bolts and that would definitely strip if its not aligned properly or if it has load on it while you are trying to remove. If you cant loosen or tighthen atleast half way with your finger strength then something might be wrong dont force it. I usually break it lose with breaker bar or big ratchet, then turn it with a socket and wrench and i shouldn't feel resistance or you should be able to use just your finger strength after its half way out. Same way when inserting it start with just your hands and finger strength to get it in as far as possible, then use socket and wrist strength to turn it in further, then use socket and wrench and complete with torque wrench. Never an impact wrench and gun. Impact wrench you can use on cast iron stuff but never when dealing with softer metals. Control arm by itslef is pretty heavy. There should be nothing attached to it or any load on it everything should be out of the way. Then you will be able to move it back and forth to align the holes properly and support the weight of control arm to make sure the weight is not sitting on the bolts while you are turning them in. Use your hand to support it.

[@AliHamza-ls8xm]

@@CurrentOutcast yes sir. Or else you risk damaging threads. You shouldn't have taken out the bolts while all the weight was sitting on it. You might have already unintentionally stripped the threads. Never should insert or remove any bolt under load or pressure. Me taking apart the whole setup is due to the load situation on control arm. Trust me i dont like to make my life hard but i wouldn't want to damage the part that i can't fix. You dont wanna have to replace the subframe just because you didn't wanted to take things apart and shortcut it. Service manual suggests the same way i have done. Some may disagree but i dont like to risk bigger unrepairable damage. As thisnis aluminum you are dealing with and fixing thread or thread inserts wont be an good idea on it as its a load bearing structure. I don't care if somebody disagrees with me about this process but before attempting to remove any bolt it must be confirmed that there's no load on that component or its not part of a support structure and also whenever possible support the weight while removing bolts to release pressure. But extra care, thorough planning and thought out process is needed when dealing with softer metals to avoid expensive mistakes.

[@richardfabrizio8998]

WTF ?