FTF #50 How To Scribe Wood To Stone

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I bet you have never tried this before. It is a centuries old woodworking technique that adds strength and longevity as well as beauty to your wood buildings.
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[@WilliamEllison]

Are those rocks you used organic? Nothing worse then rocks that have a bunch of preservatives.

[@jonpino]

I hope that they're gluten free too!

[@omzig18]

William Ellison but free range cage free rocks are the best

[@trustball]

No carbs either

[@GoldsCovers]

You guys cant forget about GMO ridden rocks.. some of the worst out there right now

[@jonpino]

The problem is it's salt content is probably REALLY high.

[@Dragonknight49]

southwestern ontario is 4' deep. chalk would also help define the contour of the rock for you.

[@tylerdekeruzec608]

the8ofDiamonds plus depending on how much of a load is to be put on it they also my want a rebar cage

[@diowk]

"i know i dont have a guard and its not totally safe but you use your tools how you want and ill use my tools how i want" I love this guy!

[@WoodoakWilderness]

To find the coutures of the rock on the bottom of the post, grind some chalk dust onto the rock and it will transfer to the bottom of the post when you drop it down. Then trim back the areas that are chalky. (The bit you talk about at 10.20 into the vid) As usual, fantastic work. ATB Dave

[@stevepicchi8986]

You should have coated the end grain with a layer foundation coating and let it wick up into the grain. This creates a permanent moisture barrier and prevents ground level microorganisms from attacking the end grain.

[@jatomo]

Your peasant is working hard. Great job!

[@kmonnier]

Mark Bradley His new name should be 24601.

[@theBIGdogdaddy100]

Mark Bradley I thought he was the kids manny. lol.

[@mariasimadareyes]

If you want some great woodworking plans then I recommend you go here: HootWood. com

[@ryanchaffee7243]

I saw in a finehome builder article a guy did this. But getting it to fit nicely on the rock he put chalk on it to see where the post needed to be removed. Great tip.

[@dbehistun2767]

Ryan Chaffee I was going to ask about that also.

[@jerryhoskins3926]

I love these rough carpentry videos that you've been posting lately, especially the roof fascia board video. I appreciate how you never half ass anything. You always do everything the hard way, which is the right way. Keep up the good work

[@elsid9860]

I have been a carpenter for 40 years, all's I wanted to say is I loved the way you used that piece of ply would to get your your square instead of complicating the job with fancy doofangle stuff.

[@Shawn-rq4py]

"Use your tools how you want and I'll use mine like I want". Best quote of the year!

[@jimsavina1941]

Take it from this 67yo non Samurai carpenter, that type of arrogance is going to bite you hard someday.

[@mariasimadareyes]

If you want some great woodworking plans then I recommend you go here: HootWood. com

[@pbwmanagement]

@Jim Savina Couldn't agree with you more, I like his channel and the post looked great. I don't work on the tools any more as I've been in management for 25yrs but some youngster will get hurt copying stunts like this. The guard is there for a reason.

[@Maghanashi]

+Jim Savina Same arrogance that drywall/plasterers had 20 years ago before lung and throat problems. Just don't believe your skill is greater than your health, please. Your health is more important than the job or project.

[@darrengreen7906]

+G23 If us guys all used our tools in the exact same way, well, the ladies just would not like that now would they.... :)

[@gregaltenhofel7326]

That was pretty cool. I've scribed a lot of things, fireplace mantles to stone fireplace's etc. But that is a pretty cool effect for an elevated deck.

[@4schitzangiggles]

if the concrete is too wet it looses a significant amount of strength. you can use a pneumatic chipping hammer with a flat bit against a scrap of wood in direct contact with the rock to vibrate the concrete and settled it into the concrete. don't forget to rod the concrete to get the aggregate distributed evenly and avoid voids and air pockets which also weaken the concrete. use your kids sidewalk chalk sticks to Mark on the rock and transfer to the post. I also will make a witness mark on the post and the rock to make sure I don't put the post oriented incorrectly and end up making a bunch of extra work because I take off wood from the wrong place. Keep up the great work.

[@mediasmoker]

Very similar style to what I used to design & build...although I didn't notch the posts into rocks. I had many posts in my decks, because of my designs that I was building...also had to dig them 36" deep (w/ no permit)...42" deep w/ permit & all concrete & if there was bed rock, I had to go through it. I built custom decks, patios & cut slab retention walls for over 25 years...I had semi trucks w/ rock beds, deliver me loads of boulders to my job sites...from basketball sized to boulders sometimes over 9,000 Lbs. each rock. I used the rocks as parts of the walls at transition points (which were always curved walls) & then I coped the cut sandstone (usually 6x8x32-34") slabs into the boulders w/ my Partner or Still concrete saws. Imagine having to flip & roll each stone slab several times for fitting. On the decks & patios...I used the boulders as seats or architectural features & then I coped the deck floor or brick around the boulders. I really miss doing that type of building, but had to finally give it up after a few injuries, including a herniated disk in my back...oddly enough, none of the injuries were from that specific work, only my carpal tunnel in both hands. I never got rich from doing those types of projects, but I did get paid well to do them...and sometimes more than anything...I loved pissing off my competitors & making them envious, especially when I took the high profile clients from them. Anyhow, way cool stuff on your channel here...wish the internet was around when I was at the peak of my career. i could have developed myself that much more, with all of the great info that at our fingertips, which I had to otherwise learn the hard way, especially since there weren't too many around, doing the type of work that I did. I still tinker doing some of it, but mostly for myself now. I'm searching for farm property in Hawaii right now, where I hope to move within 2 years & build my home. This method would be so fricken cool, since most houses there are built on posts. I'm goona have to try this somewhere, now I'm itchin'....but I'd have to use larger rocks of course ;) Your videos are addicting...Stay safe & keep the vid's rollin'

[@susanlooeezy]

I absolutely love your work. I have been to Japan many times and find their woodwork and carpentry to be without peer the world over. Only my opinion but your incorporation of their joinery and style is delightful. Nothing shows respect for materials and longevity of construction like Japanese temples and castles. You capture all of this in your projects and it’s wonderful to watch, thank you.

[@doitnow3291]

I was a general contractor for many,many years----but, never to this level of expertise. In awe Of your skills!!

[@mmanut]

Thought it would be a great idea if you applied several coats of wood preservative to bottoms of those posts before finaly setting them on the rock base. Apply several coats of preservative, let dry, then set posts. PS, I would even pour some preservative inside hole in base of posts, fill it up then let sit for a while, then let excessive drain out. Apply clear preservative onto rock bases so water wont wick into stone & helps water to roll off stone. sounds like alot but it takes only a few minutes. Great channel, Congrats, Vinny

[@MsSheener]

That's awesome. Anybody that disliked this has never tried to scribe anything. You did an awesome job. Ellison's comment cracked me up.

[@robertlarsonwoodford]

There is a boat ton of value in this FTF! Always appreciate your efforts. Keep it coming!

[@JayCWhiteCloud]

Jesse...Its great to see young carpenters here learning to use the superior and ancient methods once again..

[@kristopherdetar4346]

Hello SC ! When you are doing the fine scribe adjustments of the beam to the rock, use roofers string line chalk mixed with water to make a paste and paint the rock up. When you bring the post down, the high points of the rock will show on the wood and that is where you remove the material. Keep doing it until the wood gets almost completely stamped with chalk. This is an old piano rebuilder's trick to use when mating new pinblocks to the underside of the cast iron plate of a grand piano.

[@07aussie1]

Nice!! Well this Arbotech blade is nice, I know I don't have a guard, so you use your tools how you like and I'll use my tools how I like. That's perfect.

[@alvar891]

Nice work! I use that same veritas scribe on building loghouses. I usually carve it to the line with a chainsaw or when i dont feel my hand confident some days i use a angle grinder with a sanding disk to get to the line. Sanding disks are very controllable and precise. Usually if you leave just a tiny ribbon edge outside and let the log press it in it will not even have micro caps.

[@joshl90]

What you created is called a J hook and they are actually no longer used since they end up straightening and pulling out. Now we use hex bolts upside down which create a triangular forcing cone. I'm a structural engineer

[@banannaninja]

I'm sure he'll be alright. He wont be able to apply no where near enough force on even a straight threaded rod to pull it out of the concrete. The wood would fail far before the rod or footing will.

[@VladimirGorev]

Dmitriy Barsukov Right, especially because "pulling out" isn't an option in that case :) JoshL Someone should keep learning, but it'll not help until someone could understand the meaning of learned.

[@theyeti6465]

engineers are assholes

[@Niko_410]

I thought you were an Uber driver.......?

[@TheSamuraiCarpenter]

I am clearly not a structural engineer. So you figure I would be better off to put a nut on the end of the rod a call it good? That saves me a bunch time and effort. Thanks for the tip.

[@adamsmith3057]

So glad I found this video. Never thought of placing the stone on top of an underground pedestal. I heard about the technique, it really appealed to me, but didn't think of this! Great work!

[@richardnlaura]

Awesome woodworking techniques...and simple enough for a DIY person....thanx

[@Yabbadabbadoo980]

this is so cool i have always loved seeing really fine detail in things that you can see in every day life it truly shows when a tradesman does the job they truly care about

[@CSACscott]

Love all the ancient techniques and tools. This is defo how the samurai did it.

[@delprice3007]

dang just poured four piers with sonotube... the supreme Commander needs an organized shed. The scribing craftmanship is simply outstanding

[@nathangoddard8115]

I really like the use of a rock as a footing - makes me wish for a time machine and do mine differently. It's a great way to move water and it looks absolutely amazing. Thanks for sharing your talents.

[@jpmeidl444]

"You just use your tools the way you want, and I'll use mine the way I want." = the moment I pressed that subscribe button

[@Llaveocculto]

Best qoute by the Samurai thus far

[@Xiph1980]

@@Llaveocculto nah, the dumbest. There's a reason the accident rate is high amongst professionals who "know exactly what they're doing" and become complacent like that. He wouldn't be the first professional losing fingers working with tools they have a LOT of experience with...

[@mikepalmer4371]

Xiph1980 What trade are you in?

[@TweakerInc]

Same

[@samba247]

I loved this video from start to finish, editing, commentary, attitude, cintbet, the lot! But the ending! Then ending was boss! I love the magnet holder on the back 9f the vest! Thanks Samurai 😉👍

[@SebastiaanMollema]

I like the looks of the beam with the rock underneath! Thumbs up!

[@barburous]

Great technique. I like the idea of useing the natural curve in the rock to shed water.

[@tonydew]

I was amazed when I started checking out the actual squareness of sheet goods at work. I assumed they'd be bang on, given the volume they're produced at, but I was wrong. It's not unusual for even plywood to be a 1/2" or more out of square along the 8' side. Now, that's not going to have much affect on how you used it here, but we had to order special 'square cut' stock for projects that did require the accuracy.

[@joedaq6678]

Nice !!! I've been making shavings an curls for more years then You've been breathing. You taught me something .... Thanks Giuseppe aka Joe D

[@HiroProtagonistak]

That was sweet. I have a scribe just like that and never knew what the hook was for. Now I'm going to go find something to scribe. That's some massive hair you got going on.

[@CanadianCuttingEdge]

Is there some sort of a grout that you might put between the wood and the rock on the final installation that might help make a perfect seal and a perfect contact patch for carrying the load evenly so there won't be any excess pressure on one spot on the post for guys who might not have good skills with their arbortech or similar tool?

[@cdellbrumley]

This is such a great video, thank you. I purchased the Japanese saws from your tool store a while back, i can honestly say the Ryoba is one of my favorite tools.

[@kadampavan]

We can Use little dust or chalk powder to take impression and marking. Nice video

[@fisger867]

Just discovered your channel recently. Learned some neat tips to put into some of my own work. Thanks for being the type to share knowledge.

[@richardthomas1566]

Gotta love this guy reminds me of myself at his age and he's a real craftsman. So listen here sonny save all the scribing , fancy cutting , Beautiful tendon braces beam pockets for your own stuff and make it a hobby . Then do all your other jobs on a curve and just be on top of that curve. That will still make you the best and won't burn your self out doing all the bells and whistles . You have kids you need to make the cash need to find that balance. Theirs fewer and fewer that can do the simple stump compition Is low

[@robdevenney]

I have seen some magical work on KZbin but this has to be the best. That is an amazing job and looks spectacular.

[@probusexcogitatoris736]

I have been taught to always put a piece of roofing felt (or some similar material) between the wood and the ground. But, you put the wooden pillar directly onto the stone.

[@alofurno]

the way he did it is quality!! I was more curious about the advantages and the disadvantages of either option

[@theloniousm4337]

I've generally found that plywood is "approximately" square. Always parallel on the long edges but not always true square - the end cuts can be wonky. But close enough for placing a foundation rock.

[@nathanroberts4251]

Just a shout out. Currently working on my new wood shop. Have some what I call big projects, cough# to some not so much lol, but none the less very much looking forward to rockin' the compound miter and other awesome implements. Like to thank the grand master Samurai for some of the inspiration. Keep on keepin' on with all those great free tips.

[@Virtek7]

for europeans: live stream will start at 01:00 (am) on sunday, we have +9 hours

[@RolandKontson]

That's Central European Time - e.g Germany.

[@kamilprzeslaw]

I fortgot about that

[@iceman2008able]

Virtek7 Europeans you watch through socialist radio

[@buildingislife9069]

Lmmfao... Best thing I have heard on KZbin ever... Everyone trying to please everyone else by doing what is acceptable as safe but when you said "you use your tools the way you want and I'll use mine the way I want" I lost it.... Lol 😂😂😂

[@wyattoutlaw2370]

I was thinking the same thing. I bet there’s a bunch of home reno fanboys screaming about oh&s.

[@orlanino]

I am doing it with post on the ground and rock with the rod but still not embedded in concrete. Also, for the last fine tuning would pull sandpaper between the rock and the post foot.

[@letothejust]

I’ve seen many woodworkers but your by far the best

[@johnprendergast36]

I love the 18 inch depth code! Down here in Boston we have to go down 48 inches.I actually went out and bought a gas powered auger.

[@bxxj]

you have some mad skills scribing that post. I've done some funky baseboard scribing on some house remodeling but nothing like that. it was worth watching

[@marcocastellano2451]

We use the same technique to scribe parts for boats. Love your work man.

[@CMM5300]

Excellent craftsmanship

[@amdenis]

Great videos, amazing effort, really good craftsmanship- especially being so young. You definitely have some serious cajones to be using the old, OSHA flagged Arbortech blade system, and without any sort of protection and on a barrel grinder to boot! Keep putting out these great videos. One thing, and I don’t mean to tell you what to do, but we all like your videos; so please at least consider getting the much more effective, easier to use new Arbortech grinder and blade system. They make for much better results, and are so much safer. Several people I know who used to use the old blades have had close calls with the them, or has had to have arm, chest, hand or facial surgery- and these are seasoned, master level joiners and related professionals. Just one of the major reasons they offer the new design. But none of them would use a barrel grinder with no handles , leaving just a thumb between you and massive injury and medical bills, which is why they offer the dual opposing grip system. It’s like using a chainsaw that has no safety brake bar, no trigger and no secondary grip!

[@lukepaul2882]

Attention to detail second to none. Awesome man

[@lewisprentice243]

You rock Samurai!

[@davidtwining4739]

Samurai,Thank you for another great "how to" video. I just bought a mountain cabin and wanted to do the porch footings the same way. I have scribed trim wood to finish the base of a rock fireplace at the floor, but my technique was a little off. Thanks again man!

[@scrout]

Crazy, it looks like the post is coming up through the rock!

[@shantytownshipwright7334]

...don't forget to end seal the post, otherwise the stone is a direct conduit for seasonal moisture that will result in "dry rot". I would also epoxy seal the faying surface of stone and use a bedding material to fill any voids in the joint.

[@timgoodson9029]

your patience with the boys at the front end was totally awesome ...also the "you use your tools the way you want to..." I'm pretty old school...didn't wear a helmet when I learned to ride a bike etc. People willing to pay the extra for that kind of aesthetics here in New Hampshire are, sadly, few and far between !!

[@philmorton4590]

I know you chose rocks that curve away from the wood but water can still get places you wouldn't think possible. Shouldn't you use a silicone glue to help keep water out from underneath, inorder to pervent rot and improve the longevity of the posts fine look of thrusting out of the stone?

[@suburbanhobbyist2752]

Dude, in all seriousness, that truly was a shit ton of useful informaion you just dropped in this video. At least for me it was. Thanks!

[@rjames6056]

Another way to do this would be to mark your scribe line around all 4 sides of the post, mark 5mm or so around the bottom of the post (around the sides) router out the inside of the line. Then to scribe to the uneven surface you could use a jig saw. I suppose this method would keep most of the timber off the rock and would make it last longer. Feedback on this idea is appropriated!

[@rjames6056]

Appreciated *

[@timconway2810]

R James he did specifically say in the video you want a large area in contact with the rock in order to support the weight of the deck above. The less area is in contact, the more quickly it will split/fray/whatever you call it, leaving the decking with less support.

[@tomcummings3471]

Actually you could select rocks that are highly convex or rounded on top, and using this method get both the precision of a jigsaw along the outer line AND full contact

[@rjames6056]

T Conway that's a great point. I must have missed the part where he said that.

[@rjames6056]

Tom Cummings awesome idea

[@plakor6133]

harbor freight sells a "double cut saw" with two blades that rotate in opposite directions, so there's no kickback. it's great for carving and it cuts metal also.

[@rontobisch9765]

gday mate, love your work, your skills are insane, what i dont understand is how can anyone put a thumbs down on your videos, your videos are instructional, fun, and just awesome for someone of your calibre in the building , woodworking industry, i think people are just JELOUS, keep up the good work, thankyou for sharing your knowledge, P.S , how and where did you learn your style, cheers

[@MrAndrewmcgibbon]

here in Michigan the bottom of the footing has to be 6" below the frost line, 36" inches where I live for a total of 42"

[@vanislerider7311]

Paint the rock or use a substance that will mark the contours so you don't have to lift and drop the log so much. One good drop onto the paint and you've got all the marking you need. Just a thought.

[@bobdavis5780]

The Holey Galahad is also a great tool for scribe work, including baseboard. Thanks Samurai for your great vids.

[@jensmattsson6382]

I am really interested in setting up my own shop, just as a hobby. Would be cool if you could do a video about it. Like a "basic shop setup," and a few tips and tricks. Your content is amazing btw. // A swedish fan.

[@wiser82]

We like to peel n stick the bottom of our posts to help protect the end grain or torch-on scraps in the saddle

[@sulaimani79jalal37]

Smart carpenter...i love watching your video.. Very weldone mate.

[@brucewayne2984]

Your rock sink is my favorite, this is my second favorite! Well done Samurai

[@austinliu1043]

I have an idea for making a more precise fit: If you apply some mold release on the rock, and cast a negative impression of it using instacast or some other cast-able material such as plaster, you could then apply mold release to that and cast a positive replica of the rock, and work off of that rather than taking the post back and forth to the rock for fitting. For the ultimate fit, you could use a pantograph router with a ball tip cutter and a ball follower to transfer the exact contour of your cast replica onto the end of the post. The level of resolution you would need could be arbitrarily high, limited by how small of a ball-tip you use.

[@TheSamuraiCarpenter]

LOL! You're funny!

[@davew9477]

Those safety goggles are badass - must have a pair. Nice work!

[@hashpappy69]

You can use Capn Eddies shine juice. 1/3 each of clear shellac, boiled linseed oil and denatured achole.

[@larb8746]

I hope that every night before bed you thank God for the talent he has blessed you with. Your one in a million for talent and good old desire to do great work....and thanks for sharing your talent with us.

[@vulcanrider900]

we used to get full bundles of cabinet grade plywood that were out of square/crooked edges out of canada, switched brands and never looked back

[@TLWministries]

Dude, the superchat donation for information idea is boss!! Who would be against paying for some pro information?? Awesome!

[@muffinsmuffins8074]

10:42, you could try adding a small layer water color paint (or something similar) to the top of the stone and as you tamp the post down, the paint will adhere to the bottom of the post like a stamp showing you where you need to carve out

[@neillsmart213]

Love the way you involve your kids in your video's :) Good on you dad!

[@Joshua-zb2zx]

If you use chalk or soot on the tops of your rocks you can mark the bottoms of your beams more accurately and easier.

[@mikecoffin820]

I've been watching the samurai for a long time and I definitely think my projects through a lot more now. Currently doing a bamboo countertop to go over the washer and dryer and I mentally walked my self through the steps. What Would the Samurai Do? WWSD

[@JTWoodworks]

Great tip! Love to look of the stones. Thanks Jessie!!

[@brendandouglas-henry905]

Excellent Jess love the way the post grows out of a rock!

[@hermannstraub3743]

Fine fine fine. Two things: I have that very same carving tool and using it without a cover MAKES MY PANTS BROWN. second: will the wet water not be soaked up into the end grain fibers of the post? A common rule is to let some gap with a dripping edge if possible. Keep us informed how this works over the next year or so.

[@navi1661]

Awesome work! You know you could've probably placed some kind of dye on top of the rock to mark the base of the post that needs carving, then carve off the dye from the base, repeat til it fits perfectly.

[@kristophermarsh9400]

Samurai I have a project coming up soon that this information is going to come in handy. Thank you from Nor Cal.

[@screamsofthedead]

I don't know how effective it would be or if it would take less time, but have you ever tried using charcoal paper to help define where the rock touches the wood?

[@mdouble100]

I love this idea. I've done a number of Sono tube cement footings. Using a natural rock is so much nicer.

[@WickedRichy]

I have never seen this before. Looks really cool. Well made.

[@davidnicolet6568]

I have seen your stringerless stairs done in production in southern California on tract homes with permits engineering and the testing one commenter mentioned the big twist and why they did it was CURVED STAIRS with walk space under. Steps are pie shaped to achieve a desired radius. the first few were platform on platform then took off like yours to a second story @ 17 risers with a curved drywall finished underside. Your step to step connection is way better than theirs. Next time dream in curves. Love your stuff. Where did you get your bags/ tool belt or did you make it? David Nicolet

[@TrustinTimber]

haha, I love your attitude to not having a guard and safety. Way to tell it like it is.

[@thomasbrown9515]

I know a guy just like him.. We call him "stumpy"

[@gfotinakes316]

I enjoy your wise cracks as much as learning your art with wood. What about some tar under the wood to prevent wicking?

[@TheSamuraiCarpenter]

Great minds think alike. I use a spray on tar to seal the bottom of the post.

[@markroper9269]

Great video. Enjoy you time with the little ones! Mine graduates college next year. Ugh. Keep the info flowing in my direction. Thanks!

[@theniekoleyjourney3720]

You can also use a drywall saw just hold your pencil in the notch that’s the rite height and run it vertically across the board

[@fadetounforgiven]

I guess it could be messy if not done carefully, but instead of hitting the post hard to get the marks, you could use some kind of paint/stain/whatever that leaves a mark in the post. They would/should be easier to see, both to locate them and to know you're done while removing the material. That's an honest suggestion. Nice one anyway.

[@justgivemethetruth]

The more I think about this the more I like it ... but I have a thought. What make these stones magical? That is, how do you know what the stones characteristics are? How do you know one of your stones won't just fracture and break on you. Then where are you? How do you replace something like that, that is so individual and unique? Or, is there a way to pick stones that have the strength and structure to bear up for a hundred years under a building's load?

[@donaldnemcovsky4137]

sexy is an underwhelming way to describe that it looks like your deck post grew straight out of the living rock you sir are a genius

[@MrDshaw1988]

New favorite channel