Fulcrum Racing 5 DB Front Wheel Bearing Change

[@SMathai]

Very useful video as my bearings seized up after riding in heavy rain. One thing I discovered is that the 6903-2RS aren't correct as those are 17x30x7. Fulcrum actually needs 18x30x7 and that can cause confusion (apparently DT-Swiss and Fulcrum both say they're 6903-2Rs when they're not - so be careful when buying to make sure the inner diameter you're getting is 18mm).

[@dvs70]

Thank You, once again you've saved me. My only alteration was to use the metal washer from a second (damaged, same model) wheel between the socket and bearing. I checked and it doesn't damage the washer/seal. It's odd that such a new wheel had a bearing go bad after only 1300 miles.

[@ajwitt7472]

They don't have great sealing. Built for dry dusty Italian roads I guess. At least they're easy to service.

[@avloc1]

Success! Very helpful vid. Thank you. One of the old bearings took some getting out and it was a mess. Basically fell apart. So much brown gunk in there as well. Can't believe I rode it like that. Anyway it's all good now. Wheel spins forever. Thanks again.

[@andy42g]

Thanks for this. Followed the video and worked a treat. All for the price of the replacement bearings and a 21mm socket for a couple of quid.

[@GrigoryRechistov]

Now that's a ridiculously lightweight wheel! There are, what, only 8 spokes on one of the sides?

[@boenklon2]

Thabk you sir. Your channel help me fix my fulcrum wheel

[@gingerrussell]

Hi,.do you know anywhere that sells the silver washer that sits in front of the bearings? I'm missing one and can't find any online anywhere!

[@samlast3016]

Have you done a video with rear free hob ? Tanks

[@sylvainbernaers]

perfect

[@geoffwalmsley3066]

You can take the seals off the bearings and regrease the bearings, if the bearings are ok

[@andahoy3734]

what bearing code do you use ? i have fulcrum racing 6 db which looks the same, does they have the same bearing code ?

[@olivier3292]

I do not well understand what is the good reference because the original bearing of my fulcrum 5DB (2018) are 61903 (or 6903) - it is written on it !!! maybe they are deliberately lying by writing 18 instead of 17 to sell their maintenance kit ?

[@OliverHynds]

where did you buy the bearings from? great video btw!

[@Rasputnik]

Hi, thanks for this useful instruction. Question: is it necessary to remove the brake disc before taking out the axle and bearings, or can the disc stay on the wheel all the time?

[@FreeToCycle]

You need to remove the disc locknut to get the bearing out.

[@Rasputnik]

@@FreeToCycle ok. do i need any special tool for removing the locknut?

[@FreeToCycle]

Just a Shimano cassette lock ring tool.

[@Rasputnik]

@@FreeToCycle Thanks. Changed the bearings on front and rear fulcrum racing 7 wheels. All 4 bearings were broken, 1 completely seized after just 1 season and two rides in pouring rain. Front wheel has strange 18mm internal diameter bearing, and they installed some cheap chinese brand - probably that's why they didnt last. Quite disappointing quality, hope the more expensive wheels are better.

[@mattthomas2078]

Hi mate. I've just picked up a second hand bike with these same hubs. I think the bearings must need replacing because when the the collar is fitted tightly the wheel wont spin, and if I don't tighten the collar all the way tight they run themselves tight somehow. Ever come across this before/ do you think a simple bearing change is all that is necessary. Thanks.

[@FreeToCycle]

If you don’t know the history of the wheels then I would change the bearings as a matter of course!

[@mattthomas2078]

Free To Cycle cheers for the response, yep I opened it up and one bearing was clean as a whistle, and the other completely seized. Are there any bearing manufacturers that you would recommend?

[@winstoncat6785]

Also, I've found the preloader/collar needs setting then nipping up firmly with the allen key to be sure it will stay put. With new bearings it is hard to judge what is enough preload. My suggestion is to be gentle, exactly as with a hollowtech BB and the preloader plastic bolt on Shimano cranks (they say 1.5 Nm otherwise you are just excessively loading and wearing your bearings). Once the hub has reached the stage where the preloader can leave you with a "sticky" feeling in the bearings, it means the bearings are shot and need changing. That was my experience just now at least.

[@winstoncat6785]

Aha! Thanks so much for this. Small donation made. But, on my racing 4 DB's, the axle won't budge. Do I give it a tap with a mallet? Or could there be something about the 4DB axle that's different?

[@FreeToCycle]

The axle is probably just stuck on the bearings! You can give it a tap with a rubber hammer and it should come out easily.

[@winstoncat6785]

@@FreeToCycle I'll let you know! Thanks! I'm going to have to take a look inside soon. And possibly change the bearings. Is there a make of bearing press you could recommend? To avoid accidents, I'd probably make the investment. I have 2 pairs of Fulcrums anyway.

[@winstoncat6785]

got the axle out. needed a few firm taps. Bearings on one side a real mess (non-disc). Water ingress? The other side (disc) is perfect. very strange.

[@winstoncat6785]

Hi again. I am a little uncertain what comes next. There is no way, using a bearing press, to extract the bearings? Correct? Normally, you'd need a flange on the axle so you could press one side out with the axle, to get access to the other side with a tool, it seems. Some wheels are like this. But if both bearings are still in the wheel when the axle is out, then to remove the bearings, you have to use a punch, or there may be some very strange tool available (a puller with an expandable head / flange) that you can use. So a bearing press is then only needed for putting in the new bearings. I ask because I found a tool on wiggle which has a lot of different machined parts for all the different, standard, industrial sealed bearings, including 6903-2RS, and is supposed to work both for extraction and replacement. But clearly, it won't extract unless one side of the hub has already had the bearings removed. Am I right? The tool is from rapid racer. The total cost is a bit ridiculous. If all I can use them for is fitting new bearings, then I think an 8mm or 10mm threaded bar with some nuts and washers is more than good enough. It will save me the beast part of €60.

[@winstoncat6785]

@@FreeToCycle Must also say. Now I've done it, the Fulcrum hubs appear very easy to service. So even if the bearings they come with have problems sometimes, the fact you can replace them easily mitigates this. I found a site that sent the bearings (€20 for 2, stainless steel) by return of post! This is all a new experience. The last time I did anything like this was to replace a bearing cup in a pair of Campagnolo hubs about 12 years ago! The sealed bearing route is a lot better than the old system in many ways!

[@ajwitt7472]

Re the end caps, could you potentially drift them out from behind? They're really stuck on my brand new wheels (needing to do a TA to QR conversion for an old frame). Feeling inside the end cap there's what feels like a tiny ridge. Thinking an 11.5mm wooden dowel would work (conscious I don't want to mar the axle in case I need to go back to TA, or sell the wheels)?

[@ajwitt7472]

Well, I've answered my own question. Yes you can. The disc side one came out with fingernail pressure and that then provided easier access to the back side of the other end cap. Drifting it out with a soft plastic tube longer than 100mm was enough, just a few taps. Looked like there was some threadlock or maybe something like PTFE tape on it in addition to the o-ring. They're chamfered and that chamfer doesn't contact anything so you won't damage them with a wood/plastic drift.