G Body 1 wire, high amp alternator upgrade!

In this video we discuss a 1 wire/high output alternator install on a GM G-Body. This is a how to and why to do this upgrade video and some of the pitfalls associated with it.

[@alrightalrightalright6750]

Great video ! Bring some more content on !

[@T.-14]

That’s the nicest Buick I’ve ever seen, you did a nice putting it together. Keep up the great work

[@AJsSpeedShop]

Thanks man! I’m a couple weeks out of getting the trans back in the Buick, and then I’ll be making more Buick content. I’ve been snake bit with transmissions on this thing bigtime.

[@robertrobinson5798]

I love your channel and car question when you put the smaller pulley on the alternator what size belt did you go with?

[@AJsSpeedShop]

Robert, when I had the small pulley on it, this was on the Delco 140 amp alternator, I was actually able to keep the stock belt. When I went to the Power Master alternator with the bigger pulley, I put the same belt right back on. Gates belt #K060630

[@longbedGTs]

Looks like a good upgrade. I have the volt booster from caspers and the voltage dips into the low 12s but jumps to around 15 if the TPS volts are 3.8 or higher. Not crazy about it though...would much rather have proper voltage throughout the entire range. I'm running a 525 hellcat pump and would imagine that it'd be better off with a consistent power supply. What's the part number on the alt you have?

[@AJsSpeedShop]

Hi! The part number I used is a Power Master #578068. I used to run the old Reds voltage booster on my AC Delco alternator, and I jumped it so it stayed boosted 100% of the time, always sat around 15.0v, idle to wot… but when I changed the dash and went to a 1 wire style, I couldn’t use the Reds booster. The AC Delco 1 wire would still maintain 14.6v all the way through the a full pass though. Everything is happy at 14.6v. I made a short pull in 3rd yesterday with the Power Master and it held 14.6v at wot, but wasn’t a full pass. I’m sure it’s gonna be fine though. I don’t like seeing less then 14.0v anytime…. Idle or wot…. Make sure to add larger charge cables directly to the battery if you haven’t done it yet. I have basically no voltage drop from the alternator stud voltage to the battery terminals.

[@richardsmith-qy6vl]

I have a question about the wiring what do I have to do to go from the stock wiring to a 1 wire alt

[@AJsSpeedShop]

You don’t have to do anything to the stock wiring, you just won’t plug in the square plug that comes from the dash “VOLT” light. The 1 wire style alternator will start charging without wire/plug connected. You will want to add a 4 gauge charge wire from the alternator to the battery and a 4 gauge ground wire from the alternator to the battery. All the other stock wiring will stay intact. If your “Volt” light on the dash comes on, you may either have to remove the bulb, OR you may be able to plug the square plug into the alternator just for the light to function, but the alternator won’t need it itself.

[@richardsmith-qy6vl]

@@AJsSpeedShop thank you so much

[@SamuelHollandsh]

Cool car👍

[@ricksb7071]

@AJ's Speed Shop What's the part number on the alternator

[@AJsSpeedShop]

Power Master #578068

[@richardmartin2646]

Do you know if you can put a pulley off a 10si on that

[@AJsSpeedShop]

If you are talking about a single groove pulley, yes it will go right on there. I have a CS144 alternator on my 71’ Vette and I used the factory 454 alternator pulley which is a 10 si. Pulley interchanges fine.

[@HowardRothman]

good video, good information

[@randyauer7303]

Good information thank you

[@AJsSpeedShop]

For sure Randy! I hope it helps some people out getting around this annoying problem with the Volt light.

[@jefferycurry4351]

🦾100% love it