HOW TO INSTALL EXTERNAL ALUMINUM HANDLEBAR FOR INTERNAL CARBON BAR FOR TARMAC COMP SL7 SPECIALIZED

[@GCPerformance18]

I hope this maybe helps someone waiting to tackle this job for themselves and if you have any questions please let me know down below :) thanks

[@maxmason2018]

any option to integrate a Diverge cockpit?

[@GCPerformance18]

@@maxmason2018 no they do not have that option because of the fututre shock that is there..... but maybe in the future they will make some adjustments

[@liweiwong9591]

Hi do u know of any carbon aerobars that fit wilier cento10 sl?

[@LeftLegRightLeg]

I’m doing an identical thing imminently- question is if I can feed the hoses through the bars without having to cut them, can I simply reconnect to the levers or do I HAVE to cut and install a new stealth a majig??

[@GCPerformance18]

@@LeftLegRightLeg you have to cut them. Because they are considered crushed each time. They are meant for a one time use. Cometmes you can get away with it to re use the old ones but it can also lead to fluid leaking

[@Bringinheat]

Just wanted to say thank you for this video.....your directions are clear and concise...I was able to install my own handlebar thanks to your vid....Much appreciated

[@GCPerformance18]

no problem thanks so much for the kind words

[@dhuaib5184]

Thanks for this. Followed this while doing my own installation, and my wallet hasn't gone lighter as a result!

[@Lore-cg2jg]

my favourite mechanic on youtube

[@will13k7]

Great video, I follow these steps and to my surprise, it worked out! Also the bar wrapping video helped a bunch too! Thanks for the help!

[@GCPerformance18]

thanks so much for watching!!! I had fun filming this one

[@rozalmekpha]

great video, one thing i want to ask, i using shimano di2 disc groupset, can i just not cutting the break cable and just used old want.. sory dont what to call that needle, what i mean is just open break cable and assemble back

[@GCPerformance18]

no because those parts are crushed and once removed they need to be replaced also it is very hard ot fish that line through the bar with the old parts still on

[@kappasigds]

I bought some used S-Works Aerofly 2 handlebars. I have all the parts needed and a bike stand. My current handlebars on the bike are 440mm and I bought 400mm Aerofly 2 bars. I think the swap should be similar to the video. The brake lines may be a little short like the lines in the video. Seems like I can do this but Ive never done my own handlebar swap. Never done my own tape job either. May just try it and if im not happy take it to the bike shop to fix it lol. I can ride my Diverge while the Tarmac is in the shop.

[@GCPerformance18]

hell yea give it a shot and see what happens a shop can always fix it, might cost a little mroe money but I mean who cares have fun with it

[@lechprotean]

you went from 440mm to 400mm - did you get a bike fit? What's your shoulder width. IMO 400mm is too narrow for many people so double check that before you cut hte hoses

[@kappasigds]

​@@lechprotean I actually had my daughter help me measure my shoulder width before I made the decision to swap. Vids said take your measurement and add two centimeters to the measurement. I measured out to about 36 centimeters so I probably should be on a 38cm bar. Since I am 6'1" with a size 58 Diverge and Tarmac they both came with 44cm bars. Im a tall skinny guy. Weigh about 170lbs. I went with a 40cm over a 38cm. I actually live in a area with no way to get a professional bike fit. I do my own fit with my indoor trainer and record myself with a ipad. I actually already did the swap myself after watching this video. I didn't have to bleed the brakes. I used his GC Performance tape vid to do the reverse tape job myself also. It came out pretty good for my first try. The bike felt weird first ride for sure. I am completely use to the narrower bars now. I've actually had a couple of personal bests with new setup. My bike was a stock 2022 Tarmac SL7 Comp. I now have aerofly 2 handlebars, roval cl50 wheels, sram force cassette(put rival cassette on indoor trainer), and sram red crankset.

[@th0m]

Do you ever go from the top through the hood when accessing the shifter clamp? Rather than rolling up the hood

[@GCPerformance18]

Yes I do it on the sram red and force hoods but not Shimano or rival for some reason. Just my presence

[@sarunchhith]

Great video thank for posting this sir, I have a question, i watch your video and I setup like in the video, i have 4 station ,after all 4 station finished running and then it's started running again, can you please help me with this issue, thank you.

[@SlowLightMusic]

If I cut the line on a shimano (mineral oil) will it respond the same by not coming out of the line while I insert a new olive and barb? Thanks.

[@bjsr126]

Why did you have to cut the barb / olive? Was it in order to get it through the handlebar? Or is the olive / barb no good once it's been taken out of the shifter? Doing the reverse of this upgrade😂 going from the Aerofly to normal carbon bars, wondering if I still need to cut the olive/barb on my (Shimano) setup. Because I definetly would be able to get it through the handlebars without cutting it.

[@GCPerformance18]

both lol.... it is much easier to get the naked hose through the bar without the barb and olive.... also the olive is a crash part, so what that means, is once it is used once and crushed into place and then you remove it, it doesnt seal the way it should the second time... once removed you always need to add a new one

[@pszemysuaf]

It depends. If you work on a new bike like GC did, chances are that the initial installation was done with a proper torque and the olive hadn't been crushed and deformed. I just swaped my SL7 Comp stock handlebar for Roval Rapide one myself. I bought a bleeding kit and spare barbs and olives but managed to get away without cutting the hoses. My plan was to check if I can seal with re fitting the old olives and it worked fine in my case. I didn't have to bleed my brakes either. That being said you should be prepared to cut hose ends and install new Stealth-a-majig things if you have a leak. And it's probably better to do it every time as GC advised. Just saying that it might still work without.

[@bjsr126]

@@pszemysuaf I ended up clipping it and doing a new Olive / Barb. However I have (on a diff bike) also recently not changed the barb, both ways work no dramas tbh

[@briansimpson4269]

Do you need to cut the hydraulic brake line on all the carbon bar installations or did you do that to just shorten the line?

[@GCPerformance18]

you need too, because the hydralic olive on the end of the line can not be re used, and it can not be pulled through the bars easilly, but the olive is meant ot be a crush part

[@thomasduncan1490]

Is it really necessary to cut the hose? Im about to install new bars with an intergrated section but dont want to mess about cutting the hose

[@GCPerformance18]

yes it wil not fit through th ecutout

[@Elc0chin0]

did you use any anti slip tape on the center of the handle bars before you placed them in the stem? How much do you tighten the nuts on the stem?

[@GCPerformance18]

no I did not and the nuts at 5nm

[@Elc0chin0]

@@GCPerformance18 Is that a stock aluminum stem? Here's why I'm asking about how tight and anti slip paste or tape. I thought I saw a video where they changed the handle bars and used a anti slip tape. I'm curious about that but can't seem to find it. I can find the paste. The tightening, I bought an aero drop bar and at 5nm it slips. It works fine till I hit a bump and then the bars slip and I'm in a very uncomfortable downward position. So I tighten them hand tight and they work fine, however, it scares the hell out of me thinking that because I tighten them a bit tighter than 5nm I may have caused them to fail. At this time I'm waiting for a carbon fiber stem to replace my stock aluminum one and some anti slip paste. But I did take it out for a test ride this morning and all seemed well, however, I was cautious.

[@sbccbc7471]

@@Elc0chin0 If you've installed a carbon handlebar that's torqued to spec with carbon paste applied, then there's most likely something wrong with the stem, such as not having enough surface area to really grip the handlebar. And yes, that stem is the bike's default stem and it's made out of aluminium. Anytime you install carbon parts that need to be clamped down, you must use carbon paste. The only exceptions are when you install stems on carbon steerer tubes and carbon-railed saddles.

[@Elc0chin0]

@@sbccbc7471 Thank you for your reply, I discovered the problem. I bought an inexpensive aluminum accessory that fit on the front of the stem to hold my phone and a light with a gopro attachment. Apparently, the two large extended washers were stripping and were not able to be bolted in properly, after removing the inexpensive (used on my aluminum bars and the carbon bars several times, it didn't wear very well. I got some advice on a very expensive accessory that doesn't have the bolt extended washers so I think I'm going to start with that. Also after removing the inexpensive accessory and tighten the bolts at 5nm the bars sat good. I am just beginning at understanding all the facets of bikes.

[@sbccbc7471]

@@Elc0chin0 I think I know what kind of out-front mount you got, the one I hate the most, for its inferior mechanical design. Those sleeves (what you refer them as extended washers) will always shear into the out-front mount and are usually made out of a soft aluminium (sometimes plastic, which is worse), leading to the bolts inside these things required to be driven deeper until they can reach the bolt tension required for 5 Nm. By the time they're torqued down to that much, the sleeves are already no longer intact. I've seen this out-front mount a handful of times on customers' bikes, none of which were installed correctly. All such mounts I've encountered have undertorqued bolts. One of my customers has this kind of mount on a Specialized Venge V3 stem, where its faceplate has a slot to take an out-front mount designed for it (made by Bar Fly in collaboration with Specialized). As her mount's sleeves were made out of plastic (which were obviously already deformed), my colleague suggested jerryrigging new ones from aluminium shift housing end caps, which I already predicted won't work as it obviously wasn't designed to resist compression forces, but I tried anyway just to satisfy him for this inevitably short-lived moment. After I tried fitting the jerryrig idea, it did indeed not work like I predicted. Refusing to reinstall this same out-front mount for safety's sake and the fact that she has a ride tomorrow night, I went "To hell with it." and bought the Bar Fly out-front mount that's lying in the shop since it's within reach, alongside finding two more bolts that are as short as the original stem faceplate bolts (now that I no longer need to clamp any hardware between the faceplate and bolts). Some time during the installation, my customer noticed what I did and I told her I'm refusing to risk her safety for that stupid out-front mount as I'd rather lose a little of my money instead of putting a customer in physical danger. After hearing my explanation, she offered to pay half of the new out-front mount's cost. I have no idea if my colleague knew what I did, but I'm secretly happy that his idea doesn't work in his favour. He doesn't have half the mind of an engineer. The new kind you're talking about sounds something like what Framesandgear are offering. Their mounts are indeed more expensive, but they don't have the same problems as the one I hate as the cylindrical structure can fully distribute the clamping force generated by the bolts' heads. These allow stem faceplates to be installed much more securely than your first one.

[@Wewowes]

Brother do you know how to tighten carbon dropbar with out torque wrench?

[@carloverhamme9322]

Do you think I will have to shorten my cables when going from 44cm tot 40/38cm? I can replace my handlebars but just not shorten the cables

[@MrEndocytosis]

Do you need some sort of carbon paste or grease for metal on carbon or nothing at all?

[@GCPerformance18]

you dont need it, it is more for bars that dont have that gritty texture on there or maybe you are having slipping issues but it is not needed

[@ProfessorSteez]

My compression nut (not the olive or barb) won’t just slide down my brake hose? Any tricks to loosen it up enough to slide it down far enough to make the cut?

[@GCPerformance18]

you have to wiggle it around, sometimes they are stuck on there, maybe us a toool but only thing is to try and get something to hold the nut and something to hold the olive and yank opposite ways, also you can try spraying some lube behind the nut to get it to brake the rust seal

[@Peter_Sykora]

So if I understand correctly. If my stock handlebars are 420mm and I am installing new Roval rapide 420 mm handlebars, I dont need to cut the hoses ? I just unscrew them, put in new handlebars and screw them back ? Thank you

[@GCPerformance18]

you will need to cut them to removed the crushed olive on there, and re install new olive and barb

[@jrasero23]

GC how much do you charge in your shop for the labor to install a new integrated cockpit with a blead with new tape wrap but customers own tape?

[@GCPerformance18]

depends on the group but probably aroun 200-250

[@jrasero23]

@@GCPerformance18 thanks man. Finally got my syncros ic sl bars after over a year lol. My LBS is quoting $150-$200. Next bike definitely going semi integrated

[@stephanefraga2599]

Works good in small space using in camper toy hauler room has heat & air would buy again

[@evildr.foucci]

How are those handlebars, they are amazon $50 are they any good?

[@LuisSotogarabatoz]

Thank you soo much! You saved me about 150$. I love you 😘

[@GCPerformance18]

hahahah no problerm

[@hotcakes1117]

If you weren’t trimming the cables would you still remove the red barb parts?

[@GCPerformance18]

yes yopu have to, to be able to fish the line through the carbon bars, if you did not remove them they woudl not fit through the handlebar itself

[@hotcakes1117]

@@GCPerformance18 thanks, love your vids. Your the only one who’s bar wrap vid I’ve been able to follow and get good result 👍

[@msstefan]

Can I Do It without cuts? Are the holes in the steering wheel large enough or not?

[@GCPerformance18]

They are not. It wouldn’t work. You need to cut it

[@culturedkeys1289]

Whats up GC! Great Vid as always! Any recommendations on which good (quality & aesthetic) handlebars i can throw on my Scott Addict RC without breaking the bank? The Syncros ones are too expensive!! Thank you!!

[@GCPerformance18]

thanks so much!!! I mean there are a ton of bars on pandapodium website and they have a good amount of bars to choose form there with budget friendly

[@culturedkeys1289]

@@GCPerformance18 thanks GC!

[@tarpontime7562]

Dang man. What a difference. Makes me want to swap mine now. If I could find one.

[@GCPerformance18]

thanks so much!! I have a ziipp bar

[@payamirani5298]

I just bought a used 2021 SL7 Pro (size 58) converted to double in the white. It arrived y'day and when I dropped it at my local bike shop they noticed that the previous owner had run a 130mm stem. Since I am only 6' I asked them to swap in a 100mm stem. The problem is neither the current 130mm nor the 100 (both are the integrated specialized SL7 stem with the hole on bottom) have the bracket underneath that holds the cables in neatly. Can you tell me what this part is and where I can get it? I also need the compatible spacers and top cap but those I have been able to find online.

[@GCPerformance18]

they come with the stock stem, you need to have a specialized store order this part or email specialized and ask for it

[@payamirani5298]

@@GCPerformance18 Thanks. I was surprised not to find it already on the new 100 mm that I bought from my Specialized dealer.

[@0views372]

Hey, what torque specs should I follow when clamping down Ultegra r8100 levers on carbon handle bars?

[@GCPerformance18]

6-8nm

[@jorgeallen1]

Great video, looking to do this myself on my sl7; however Can i do this job on a sl7 that was ridden 100 miles already or am i gonna squirt fluid all over?

[@GCPerformance18]

no you are fine , as long as the hoses are connected to the calipers and the bleed port caliper is not opened then it creates a vaccum and your good just dont squeeze the brake lever when disconnected

[@jorgeallen1]

@@GCPerformance18 perfect! Thanks a lot for replying back. I appreciate it!

[@Yamaha_Bolt]

Thanks for the video. What are your impressions on those bars? Can you do a review against those 5X the price please.

[@rushkilerr]

on 4:16 does it required to cut that thingy over there

[@GCPerformance18]

yes it does, those are crushed andf a one time use, they are not meant to be used again and again

[@stephanefraga2599]

Good bike for staying safe on gravel

[@Elc0chin0]

Just out of curiosity do you have a video like this for the gear cables as well?

[@GCPerformance18]

I dont im sorry, but same way

[@manueleleojames4705]

same process with a mechanical brakes sir?

[@GCPerformance18]

Yes

[@intayonlakay8230]

Wow! Looks like my set up except I put my Shimano groupo on it. Looks good...👍🏼

[@GCPerformance18]

thanks so much!!! the bike came out clean

[@db613]

Was that Japanese when you decapitated the cables? What does it mean?

[@GCPerformance18]

lmfao its to pay my respects to the fallen hoses

[@thebikerepairshopformby]

Thanks for posting this video, it was very useful. Appreciate you taking the time 👊🏻👍🏻

[@GCPerformance18]

Thank you very much for watching!!!

[@arnoldvales784]

Awesome tutorial @GC Performance . bookmarking this one!

[@GCPerformance18]

Thanks so much I am glad you found it informative

[@mechpatt]

Would it be possible to get the opinion of the rider as to the road vibration thru the new handlebars compared to the old bars? Got the same bike, the handlebars feel really thin under my gloved hands, the front end is so stiff I know if I run over a matchstick! It’s the only disappointment with this bike.

[@GCPerformance18]

it will make a huge difference I promise you, the bars are very narrow and thin so they put alot of pressure on the nerves.... but get a more aero bar that is more ergonomic and it will eliminate alot of that pressure and also it will dampen vibrations as you rid because the material is not as harsh it is a game changers

[@mechpatt]

@@GCPerformance18 thanks for the reply, Specialized really went cheap on the bars and they are nasty with such a stiff front end. Spoils a really good bike, I just love it! Keep up the good work, best wishes from Australia! 🇺🇸🇦🇺

[@gnarlyal]

for Trek Emonda ALR please if it has any chance of internal cabling

[@GCPerformance18]

okay I will try my best but I am sure it is faily similar

[@bodhisatwaghosh]

I want to have a video on installation of a integrated handlebar like Vision Metron with both Hydraulic and mechanical gears like Ultegra R8000. Please share if you have something like that.

[@GCPerformance18]

I do not install those alot

[@francescorota2982]

$50 carbon bars on a $5000+ bike. Why??? RXS SL bars do snap! Why would you anyone have them on?? Saving 100-150 USD only to then pay so in the hospital when they inadvertedly fail...

[@GCPerformance18]

lmao I do not know this was off his other bike.... he wanted me to swap them

[@ricksmith3542]

Does the same process work for Shimano hydraulic systems? ie, can you just remove the line from the calipers without mineral oil leaking out of the caliper?

[@sbccbc7471]

Shimano hydraulics don't stop leakage when they're cracked open. This anti-leakage feature is SRAM's Stealth-A-Majig at work.

[@jegerm6752]

Is the procedure the same with shimano hydraulic brake? Fluid wont come out when I cut the hose?

[@GCPerformance18]

yes it is the same and fluid wont come out, you are going to need a tool to punch the barb into the hose they do not thread in like the sram I showed and also the di2 wires are a little bit more to run along with the hose but not impossible

[@jegerm6752]

@@GCPerformance18 Thanks! Yeah the little olive thingy is a nightmare to do without proper tools. I tried to install new brakes on my old MTB a few years ago using only box cutter, hammer and vise. I failed and had to bring it to the shop and buy new brake hoses in the end 😅😅

[@juanpadilla8808]

I just bought an aero handlebars for my Roubaix expert. My current set up is an alloy bar, do I need a carbon stem?

[@GCPerformance18]

No you don’t, you can run whatever stem you like with the bar

[@Patnpattysbackpackshack]

No carbon compound on shifters?

[@GCPerformance18]

nope not needed

[@nafizz1701]

Thanks for uploading this video, I'm going for a handlebar swap and now I can do it myself. Just one important question, you said the calipers have to have the bleed ports inserted before doing this procedure , I'm not sure what you meant, could please clarify?

[@LOGICAL-JAY]

How long did it take to finish that carbon installation ???

[@jamsxr]

Great video. Is the process similar for Shimano brakes?

[@GCPerformance18]

yes the exact same but with di2 wires so a little bit harder to fish them out

[@timstreib4493]

@@GCPerformance18 can I lay the shifting cables and the breaking lines trough the same hole on a shimano lever. I have a tarmac SL6 comb and want to switch to the aerofly handlebar?

[@iRyan876]

GC, I just started watching and the video hasn't finished but if you haven't mentioned it, do you have a link to the cutting tool you used or maybe could you put a description of tools used ?

[@GCPerformance18]

yea I am sorry I did not put out a list but here you go, you odnt need ot buy from them but this is the first place I google searched it, also your local shop can order these for you www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/sram-professional-hand-held-hydraulic-line-cutter

[@iRyan876]

@@GCPerformance18 Perfect! Thank you!

[@db613]

Now just do a walk through upgrading the SL7 crankset to lighter s works DYI and we bring the weight to 16 lbs without spending 10k

[@GCPerformance18]

lmao alright maybe next one

[@sbccbc7471]

@@GCPerformance18 Wait, I thought that's not possible? Aren't S-Works cranksets made for BB30 only?

[@juniordupera79]

Does your store have a website for what lights you guys have available can you please send me the link to the website

[@GCPerformance18]

it does not i am sorry buit the site name is bicyclegeneration.com

[@amitnadkarni3090]

Great channel, and looking at these rad bikes gives me pleasure. I just bought this bike, tarmac sl7 comp and i am planning to upgrade to aero handle bar. Can you please give me link to the buy this handle bar.

[@pe3117]

Nice work! Love that handlebar 👊

[@GCPerformance18]

yea it came out nice

[@zhoujustin1954]

what is the name of this bar??? Can i run fully intergrated cables with mechanical shifters on my allez sprint😢

[@GCPerformance18]

I have no idea the custome rbrought it in

[@zhoujustin1954]

@@GCPerformance18 oh okay 😂

[@rafacycle]

I have aerofly 1 handle bar and use it with extralite hyperstem … they say it needs to have transversal fibers in order not to break by clamp… anyone any experience with that? Do you know what fibers it has ?

[@luisrosario4710]

Salute GCP número uno 🙏👍🔥🇵🇷💯

[@GCPerformance18]

Thank you so much luis!!!!

[@db613]

Amazing walk through! Whatchamacallit part number....🤣

[@GCPerformance18]

lmfao its called a stealth a ma jig by sram

[@mincehogan9508]

as always gold dust content GC

[@GCPerformance18]

lol thank you so mcuh!!

[@604idan]

great video. Thanks!

[@GCPerformance18]

You're welcome!

[@vantkachenko5651]

Hello, please tell me the full name of the steering wheel

[@GCPerformance18]

I do not know this one, I am sorry the customer bought it from ali express

[@vantkachenko5651]

@@GCPerformance18 Got it, thanks)

[@PatrickLino]

"We are officially ran through" - That's what she...nvm.

[@GCPerformance18]

lmaoooo bro when I was watching the videos befoe I put them together I giggled a little bit and thought to remove it but I thought no one would catch it

[@briantedlos1804]

I see 😉

[@simplyxuan779]

Are those Aliexpress bars? Looks good.

[@GCPerformance18]

lmao yea they have the fact carbon look to them

[@MrEndocytosis]

I guess the moral of the story here is it I’m going to attempt this myself, go with sram. Shimano? Fuggedaboutit.

[@GCPerformance18]

srassm is way easier because you do not have to worry about getting the di2 wire through the bar, which is not that hard but in terms of the job itself the sram is easier

[@Zeben84]

Front brake contamination inc ! :') Please remove the wheel and brake pads when you bleed or mess with hydro brakes !

[@GCPerformance18]

Yea for your average joe shmooo who attempted one time in his garage I get it. This is my job, I do at least 3-4 of these a day, I got it

[@Zeben84]

@@GCPerformance18 like the part where you send dot everywhere because you hit the hose by mistake 😅

[@21ddman]

man....no bleeding (written in sram's manual), no carbon paste between stem and handlebar, no dot grease ....whaat?

[@GCPerformance18]

You realized there was carbon bars before carbon paste was even invented for road bikes...... it is not needed at all, it can be recommended but not required. And yes you don’t need to bleed it if your good, I’m not loosing any bit of fluid at all. And that’s why there is a bladder in the hood of the shifter.

[@MrIanD1]

You forgot about the whatchamacallit.

[@GCPerformance18]

hahahahhaa

[@DDGB08]

😊

[@crailwah]

Grade a stuff

[@GCPerformance18]

I am happy you enjoyed it :)

[@scottelectronic]

Am I completely stupid or…where are the shifter cables?

[@GCPerformance18]

Wireless

[@scottelectronic]

Copy. Here’s my scenario: Scott Addict 30 coming, brand new. Prime Primavera bars coming. Does this job now become significantly harder?

[@stfu6397]

Bruh how many ads

[@GCPerformance18]

sorry I will tone them down next time

[@CMWren87]

Didn’t include how to level/angle the bars and hoods. 👎