GE washer (GFWR4805F1MC) died after power failure + no spin issue

How to diagnose and resolve issue with GE washer (GFWR4805F1MC). Washer died when power came back after a failure. After replacing main circuit board, the power came back, but there was no spin. This was fixed after replacing rotor position sensor.

[@mariopalomino2570]

I appreciate you taking the time to: 1.explain the issue you were having, 2. you thought process to try and isolate the cause, 3. and the final solution at each point. I narrowed my issue to the same command board and have it on order. Thanks again.

[@TheAlexdv2000]

That's exactly what I'm going through right now for the second time. The first time this happened to me i was able to have my main board fixed and everything was good after i replaced it. This second time i ordered a new main board and after I replaced it, no spinning. I'm almost positive that it's going to be that sensor. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Ill update my comments when I'll have it fixed. Thank you again!

[@thomaslonni9082]

Great job. Thanks for taking the time to post this video. My power went out and when it came back, the washer had no power. I have ordered the replacement part on ebay. Thx

[@fixitdad3349]

Glad it helped

[@scotts4125]

I'm thinking I have the newer model GE washer and dryer. Mine are 4 years old. At year 3 my washer stopped draining. I found the specs and ohm'ed out the drain pump which was out of spec. I ordered a new drain pump installed and same result. Everything powered on but no pump. I thought about and the only thing it could be besides broken wires would be the board. The board for my machine was close to $200 and had about 17 connections. I pulled the board first and on visual inspection I had a huge burn mark where the drain circuit is. My theory is the fried board took out the pump. I replaced the board and on my unit you have to go into programming to let it know the specific model of washer. Everything came out perfect. Now the fill valves make a squeaking sound. I have new valves on hand but haven't installed them yet. While back there I am also going to replace the hoses and the steam hose to the dryer.

[@tominson90ify]

Thanks, you helped me fix my washer!

[@kctyphoon]

My washer and dryer arent as nice as those - but im having the exact same issue and after some research im betting i have the same problem, with the control board at least. Branch came down and broke the neutral wire for my power service at the pole. Everything in the house went crazy. All my surge protectors popped. Power wasnt completely dead since both legs of the feed were still intact, but without the neutral nothing worked right. I shut down the main breaker in my house and about 16 hours later the power company finally came and fixed my line - right as i was digging out a kerosene heater to keep warm. Power line fixed - luckily all the important stuff in the house (furnace, sump pumps, fridge, 86" inch tv lol) all were working. My Amazon Basics surge protector probably saved my TV and home theater stuff. All that stuff was on and it was a pretty loud pop when that surge protector blew, but it didn't shut off. That was the first thing to get unplugged as soon as the protection indicator light was gone. Unfortunately both my washer and dryer took a hit, even though neither were in use.

[@robertobermudez8423]

I have a GE gfd85essnww dryer and when installing it it does not turn on. Do you have any idea what could happen? The dryer does not give any signal on the screen, on button, etc.

[@fixitdad3349]

Check the power to the outlet first. If power is fine, then possibly the circuit board might have gone bad. The only way to tell might be to open the machine and do a visual inspection of the board followed by taking chances on what you feel might be wrong. Im not an electronics engineer and there was no guaranteed way for me to find out that the board is in fact the problem. Although a broken fuse on board was a strong indication. Note, that replacing the fuse alone is not necessarily going to work, as there has to be something else wrong that led to the fuse being blown out, which is hard to find.

[@FirdayNights]

you don't have to break your door lock. there is a white piece you can push in to manual override to unlock the door lock.

[@vittalvijay551]

Can that be pushed in when the Power has completely gone ( the machine not turning on), and can you please point where on the machine we can find this?

[@FirdayNights]

@@vittalvijay551 yes, if you open the switch, you can see it is the by pass door opener when the power is complete gone.

[@FirdayNights]

@@vittalvijay551 There is only one white tab on the switch. if the door is not closed, you can access it by open the rubber seal. if the door is locked, you have to open the top, and see the white tab from the top and put it down to release it.

[@ramos7790]

Can you explain where plz

[@FirdayNights]

@@ramos7790 can you be more specific what are you looking for?

[@jeromedavis8575]

I'd like to see a normal cycle with time saver option on.

[@MrKentaroMotoPI]

Always put your electronically switched devices on a surge protector.

[@ChrisMichaelsChicago]

Surge protectors may seem to be an answer, but in my years of experience I've found that something claiming to protect from power spikes, isn't in reality going to protect anything from blowing up. You'll find plenty of examples of expensive power strips such as monster with surge protection big capacitors and other circuitry , fancy heat sink construction etc. Hadn't worked at all. What you want is a voltage regulator such as one would find in recording studios. They're very expensive. But nothing is going to stop a surge such as one caused through ground such as a lightning strike too close to home.

[@MrKentaroMotoPI]

@@ChrisMichaelsChicago About 10 years ago, we had a big spike caused by a power company equipment failure. This would have been thousands of volts. I saw 1kV rated disc capacitors burned, diodes vaporized. All the devices on surge protectors survived. Almost all of the devices not on surge protectors were damaged. All the surge protectors were ultimately destroyed: some immediately, some smoked, some caught on fire, some ran for a couple days then died. The surge protectors did their jobs. None of the Tripplite or APC protectors smoked or burned. These were big 3000+ J units. We don't get surface lightning strikes here in Hollywood 🎥, so I don't have any experience with them.

[@Emt356747]

Lost me at crowbar lol

[@fixitdad3349]

Only time that would be required is if the machine dies after power failure and clothes are stuck inside. crowbar is the quickest wait to pry open the door. I did not have patience to fix the door lock and then take clothes as i needed the clothes very next day for my trip. It did broke the door lock in the process, but i replaced it for another $20 bucks.