Gearbox Removal (in order to lube clutch splines)

[@dullbrass]

Thank you so much, Guy! So far I managed to remove the complete rear end and the gearbox. Not sure, if I had even tried without your videos.

[@motophoenix5951]

I am so pleased they have been helpful. All the best Guy.

[@mklteams]

Hola,hace mucho tiempo que no sube vídeos,espero que esté bien y desearle un año nuevo lleno de grandes momentos,un saludo 👋

[@nicholasjr.2315]

I agree 100%..thanks for the vid now I’m off to duplicate..will update..

[@441rider]

Hey Motofirebird :) I am about to try the clutch replacement in frame on the r60 soon. At end of adjustment. Hope to get swing arm off after bags and other bits.

[@motophoenix5951]

Great! I’ll be watchin out for a video. Hope you are not neglecting that lovely old BSA 😆

[@441rider]

@@motophoenix5951 Well I am selling the 82 Rt100 and keeping the beezer and r60 so that says a bit. The r60 cold is slipping and adj is really out at extent so I may have a month to get the parts. The swing arm off and gearbox is ok but the rack bags /6 mufflers are the time involved. Found a complete stock clutch pack with 6mm of friction left I will try and install. Will make alignment tool and leave flywheel on I think. Spring diaphram at end of pressure I think.

[@mredol]

Hello Guy Any advice on how much grease to apply? With the help of a friend we replaced gearbox on R80/7 few years ago and we only applied very small amount of MOLUB-ALLOY PASTE WHITE T. Lately it’s hard to find 1st gear, it’s a bit crunchy sometimes. Do you have any thoughts. Could it be clutch cable adjustment? Do you take on private work? I’m Essex area. Best Mark

[@motophoenix5951]

Hello Mark, you only need a thin smear of the appropriate grease on the splines. I usually apply it with an old toothbrush to work it down into grooves. The issues you speak of regarding gear selection could well be to do with clutch adjustment or a sticky friction plate spline, which regreasing should relieve. It could however also be a gearbox problem. I suggest you check all aspects of the clutch adjustment is in accordance with the manufacturers recommendation and if this does not improve the situation then it may be time to take the gearbox out to inspect the input shaft splines for dryness and wear. If the shaft splines are worn, I suggest you replace the shaft and clutch friction plate. Another area to check before delving into the gearbox is the condition of the clutch release bearing, as this too may cause the problems you are having. Sorry, but I don't do any work on bikes.

[@TheLolabea]

Slight change of subject. Do you have any tips on seized front engine mount removals. I'm convinced it's stuck in the frame and not the engine casing. I've tried all the usual and obvious methods to no avail. Now considering drilling both sides. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks.

[@motophoenix5951]

In my experience seized engine mounting bolts are usually caused by the reaction between the steel bolt and the aluminium engine casing. In one desperate situation I had to cut the bolt between the frame and engine, remove the engine and press the remainder of the bolt out on a press along with the application of plenty of heat. That was on a Guzzi and they are well known for the problem. The regular application of penetrating oil, time and patience often works. Try turning the bolt every now and then. Once it starts to turn, you’ve won usually. Failing that, plenty of heat from an oxy-acetylene torch will probably work, especially if the bolt is seized in the frame. If you decide to drill, take care to get the drill in the centre of the bolt. I centre punch and usually start with a fairly small drill (say 6mm) just to get a lead and then swap to one that is the best size. Without seeing the situation that is the best advice I can offer. All the best.

[@TheLolabea]

Moto Phoenix Thanks a lot for taking time to reply. The rear mount is out and as you slightly lift the engine up and down the stud stays completely still. This suggests the stud is seized on the frame and not the engine(I hope). I've tried everything and as long as I can keep the pilot hole central and creep up with the drill size I'm hoping I can remove both sides and knock the remainder of stud through. Supporting the engine underneath as we go. That's the plan. Really good videos by the way.

[@TheLolabea]

We had a productive day today. Carefully and successfully drilled out engine mounts with no damage to frame. Disappointing news is that just as you predicted the stud is stuck solid in the engine. Strange as when we lifted the engine up and down at the rear it seemed to clearly pivot nicely on the stud which didn't move at all. I'm thinking now to remove the stud we will need to remove the belly pan, clean excess oil away and apply plenty of heat to the tube that takes the stud, center punch or pilot hole the end of the stud and start tapping away! Any tips much appreciated. Thanks.

[@malcolmnash5850]

Hi, when and why would you do this task, Thanks Malcolm. Excellent Tutorial once again.

[@motophoenix5951]

I do this once a year. Lubrication prolongs life of the splines and helps to maintain smooth operation of the clutch.

[@malcolmnash5850]

Thanks very much for your reply, I have just got myself my first ever BMW a R100rs and am thinking of doing most of the maintenance myself but I'm quite shocked that you are best to do this operation once a year . Thanks again for your excellent Tutorial.

[@BrianPayan]

Does it matter what gear you are in when removing or is neutral safe?When putting the gearbox back, I ask the same question

[@motophoenix5951]

Sorry Brian, I have obviously missed this. You probably know by now that it does not matter which gear, but it is usually slightly easier if you are in gear rather than neutral. Best wishes Guy.