Removing the Bevel Box and Swing Arm

[@rt-po6yp]

Thanks again for your instructive videos. I am finally getting 'round to removing the swingarm and replacing the driveshaft (going to use a rebuildable item sold by Ted Porter in California) and swapping out the gearbox for one which has the circlip on the output shaft. My 93 R100GS/PD transmission lacks this circlip. I found a used transmission said to have the circlip; I disassembled the used transmission to make certain of the presence of the circlip and found some bearings that needed replacing. My previous transmission rebuild was in 2004 for an airhead RS. I had to watch your transmission rebuild video several times (with freeze frame to make certain of correctly aligning the shift forks). When shimming the transmission I found it inadvisable to mix imperial and metric instruments and try and use the iPhone calculator to do the maths (with greasy fingers no less!). On my second attempt I used all metric (micrometer and depth gauge) and made up a spreadsheet to calculate the shim thicknesses. Re-assembled the transmission; slightly reheated the ends with the bearings and used a dead blow hammer to give each the input and output shafts a nice whack. After the whack the transmission shafts spun more easily and shifting could find all gears. One other note: Some years back I met a feller from Cleveland, Ohio that had over 100k miles with the original driveshaft. He had a leaking transmission seal, similar to that shown on your video. He never fixed the leak, just added more transmission oil. He reckoned that having the swing arm with oil helped the CV joints stay lubricated much like the older airheads.

[@rt-po6yp]

These are nicely done videos. You have obviously done this procedure a number of times. One reminder for those doing this for the first time on their bike is to heat the pivot bolts. It seems that BMW used red loctite on the threads and one needs to apply heat to melt the loctite, else there could be damage to the threads. The loctite should be removed from the threads and is not needed for subsequent reassembly.

[@motophoenix5951]

Thanks for the complement and reminder Rob, however I think you missed the comment I added at the bottom of the screen reminding viewers to heat the pivot bolt to soften the loctite 4m 27s into the video. I think I also mention this in other videos where I remove the bevel box on this channel. Nevertheless I always appreciate a helpful comment. Thanks.

[@rt-po6yp]

You are correct, I did miss the note at the bottom of the screen. There is so much info being conveyed in these instructional videos, that I find it useful to watch them multiple times. Great videos! Thanks again for taking the time to make the videos available!

[@motophoenix5951]

rob tayloe I try to convey as much information as possible as I work on the job, but sometimes I forget something, or in the editing some information get cut, so then it's a case of resorting to adding a note or two. I'm afraid I am still very much a dilettante when it comes to video production.

[@krishampton7060]

Do these paralever swing arms vary slightly from the 1100 Gs at all ???

[@lastairhead]

Good job, man! I am all eyes on your channel! Any tips about how to remove that butterfly nut on the rear brake cable? mine is stuck (or previous owner used locktite on it)

[@motophoenix5951]

Hi, thanks for the comment. Regarding the brake cable and butterfly nut, you should find that if you pullback the rubber gaiter covering the inner cable a hexagon will be exposed that you can get a spanner on in order to hold fast the adjuster thread on the end of the cable. Then you can use pliers to apply some force on the butterfly nut. If it still won't budge try some heat on the nut to soften the Loctite. Hopefully this will get you out of trouble. Good luck.....

[@dullbrass]

Thank you for your videos!

[@motophoenix5951]

My pleasure, I hope they are of use/interest as I like to share the knowledge.

[@tennlabs]

Do we have to watch you take off the rear wheel!