The End of Quality Menswear? Why Iconic Brands are Dying

[@gnarshread]

As a small business owner in the high end clothing industry I genuinely appreciate this. I realize that my product is not for everyone and that is fine. However I have found myself making a switch from "selling" my clothes to having to educate people on what they are looking at and then letting them make a decision. The generation gap between quality clothes and today has become wide enough for the new generation to grow up without that knowledge and appreciation. Especially when we design a lot of our own tweed and people just do not understand what tweed is or what they are looking at. Therefore, in my mind, we need more people like yourself to help educate and popularize quality clothing. Please keep fighting the good fight.

[@petersmith2040]

It’s all part of the casual trend that’s been going on in society. Blame it on the tech billionaire executives wearing T-Shirt, jeans and sneakers in public for setting the trend and subconsciously sending a message to the public that if billionaires can dress casually and sloppy, why should the average Joe and Jane dress up nicely in public?

[@DMWayne-ke7fl]

What is your website. I'd like to patronize it.

[@bighands69]

Tweed is looked down on as stuffy and old fashioned but some people have started to catch onto the fact it is far more fashionable that cheap mass produced junk. Media has played a large part in changing people's world views. Remember this is the same media that pushed "Shell suits" and the onesie. It is the reason why todays pop music sounds like a computerised voice.

[@stevenhombrados1530]

I rather buy quality, and look classy, than try to fit in on the ever changing fashion trends. Problem is where can I buy quality? Since I don’t live near St.James square England!,

[@bighands69]

@@stevenhombrados1530 There are quality brands that are designed to last and you will need to research them. It really depends on where you live, access and price of clothing.

[@krunoslavkovacec1842]

I honestly hope that with all the sources for learning about menswear and quality clothing (like this channel) that there will be a resurgence in demand for nice, long-lasting clothing. There are more and more enthusiasts out there and the future looks promising.

[@thegentleman1743]

I think we are already seeing that. Sure, some classic retailers are going out of Business but there is also a surge in demand for natural fabrics and there are lots of smaller menswear brands popping up

[@krunoslavkovacec1842]

@@thegentleman1743 Oh appsolutely. There are more and more new brands that are inspired by the designs of the past. It is realy exciting

[@glared]

Hopefully before our lifespan’s end LOL.

[@SonicMatrix64]

@TVMisterTero you failed to see the argument being made here

[@OrrosGG]

We’re a niche community. Even, hypothetically 2 million classic menswear enthusiasts in the whole world is an extremely restricted number but who knows, hopefully people realise it.

[@GyulaWeeber]

Two years ago I got myself a custom-made suit from a tailor. After discussing my expectations with 15+ tailor I choose the one I felt most confident with - luckily he wears the same size as I do - and as we become friends he offered me the chance to buy some of his own suits too - that's a best way to get vintage at top quality and small price!

[@prapanthebachelorette6803]

Lucky you!

[@Reed-Publications]

I hate that the quality of clothing has dropped so dramatically. I would much rather have 10 high quality shirts than 50 low quality shirts.

[@Jack14432]

10???? 3 would do if you can find

[@bighands69]

@@Jack14432 10 would last you decades.

[@raychii7361]

@@bighands69 You are overestimating the lasting quality of a shirt. Seriously it will cost you more on organic soap to make your shirt last over just replacing them when needed.

[@Olyfrun]

​@@raychii7361yeah, the only way 10 shirts will last decades is if you don't wear them...

[@clintony3000]

I would love a video series called Brands that ARE Worth it. Or something to that effect where you do videos specifically on brands that are, maybe lesser known, and offer great value/quality at the time of filming.

[@bighands69]

I am a fan of Barbour jackets as they are at a good price and level of quality but I have a feeling that their new stuff is not as good.

[@wsl5585]

I miss the days of clothes shopping. It was a special time going to a men's clothing store and spending half a day with the salesman who knew my style or who could pull together a look.

[@sdmarais633]

I hate the fact that my clothes fall apart so easily. I treasure all my quality clothes more and more

[@samanthab1923]

Even when I was in college, stuff I raided from my dads closet was made a lot better. He had a bunch of Fred Perry tennis wear & some cotton paisley button downs that killed.

[@jimmyday656]

Bingo, my favorite suits are at least 20 years old.

[@dakotarayprice]

I wear skinny pants I like the look on me

[@hanneshendigl6026]

@Selim Mašić they probably buy at h and m 🤣

[@michaelcap9550]

@Selim Mašić Old Navy falls apart quickly. GAP is overpriced.

[@Spider-Too-Too]

Men’s fashion is going more and more casual and wearing a sport jacket makes me look like a professor

[@FMHammyJ]

And what's wrong with that?....Go into a shop wearing a t-shirt and jeans, vs wearing a shirt, sports jacket and jeans.....and see how differently you are treated.......it shouldnt matter, but it does.....

[@Mr-R.R.]

@@FMHammyJ because he doesn't want to look like a professor?

[@Mr-R.R.]

I agree that if you look like a professor, something is off. But really, something is more likely off with your clothing of choice. An actual sports jacket done right that fits you, doesn't make you look like a professor. It makes your look better, younger and more confident. If you look like a professor, then it tells me the colors, material, size, fit and everything else is off

[@MrSanbonsakura]

High Doctor how are u today ? ...

[@lullemans72]

dang, then what does that make me when i like to wear my three piece suit, tie, shirt with collar bar, topped off with a pocket square and dress shoes with a mirror shine?

[@theworldasiknowit.5751]

I live by a simple motto, and have for years 'Don't buy cheap stuff, buy good stuff cheap." I have never been disappointed. Some of my clothing (including my shoes) I have had for several years. Rotation, care, and storage are the keys to longevity, once you get the quality right. Keep up the great work - NEW SUB.

[@neskhalifafbb]

I give the Gazette my highest regards and credit for my style transformation. Without them I wouldn't be who I am today.

[@imichael2411]

Same here. Before I found this site, I did not care what I wore nor how I looked. Then, The Gentleman's Gazette can into my life! From that point on I bought more suits, paying attention to the quality of materials, as well as where it was made (American by choice). Fort Belvedere is now my go to for accessories. Since I am now an entrepreneur I found that appearance is so very important. Thank you, Raphael! You helped to change my life!

[@aurin_komak]

I am still in the beginning of my metamorphosis. I don't wear suits daily yet, but boy am I going to! I just gotta find a fitting sports jacket and a dress shirt from my local second hand store...

[@thebigds]

Frankly, I think most consumers don't know enough to be able to tell the difference in-store. They may realize after a few washes, but only if they have something better to compare against. I know growing up my parents wanted to save money, so I didn't get to experience high quality until my mid 20s when I started into business casual and MTM (6'4" 180#). Now I'm trying to share with anybody who will listen: natural fibers, quality construction, timeless style!

[@Mr-R.R.]

They also don't care

[@Kanga1974]

I have a lot of designer clothes i had bought 20-25 years ago and after so many years they are still ok today. Quality is much better than the same brands i can buy nowadays.

[@bighands69]

Most designer clothing is really about the actual fashion design rather than the actual quality of the items.

[@MLJpn]

Hello everyone from Japan 🇯🇵 I’m glad to say that the high quality menswear scene is very alive and well here. Most of my pieces like jackets, shoes, knitwear, outerwear I have bought are made domestically and have all held up beautifully for more than 5 years.

[@locutusdborg126]

Omedeto gozaimasu.

[@quinton8614]

Nice!

[@davesmit8162]

I love Japanese so this is great to hear. Please can you make some recommendations?

[@MLJpn]

@@davesmit8162 ありがとうございます😊 I recommend tailoring and quality clothing from Ring Jacket. They are family owned and operated. One of the most respected names in menswear in our country.

[@dmark1922]

I'm here too. Some of the things I saw in this video were unbelievable to me: like the average piece of clothing is only worn 7 times?!?! If I have bought something I only wear 7 times or less I consider it a totally failed purchase (and this has happened). I have good t-shirts that have lasted more than 20 years, long sleeve shirts of 25+ years, etc. And this isn't all high quality stuff but mostly off-the-rack. Maintenance is key! In Japan we don't have huge closets (if even any closet at all!) so I think people are much more careful about what they buy and keep things longer. Of course, the fast-fashion boom has affected us just like the rest of the world. I do know people who totally empty their closet once a year and buy a totally new wardrobe. I think it is mostly just a way to try and look cool (?!?!?!?)

[@istvantoth7431]

The answer might also be 'Planned Obsolescence'. My grandfather back in the day bought 100 times more durable worker jackets/coats for a fraction of the money you spend today ... This is all intentional.

[@jackblack4110]

If you account for inflation, that depends. But ya, garment quality sucks these days

[@michaelbell3952]

Capitalism baby

[@jefffawcett]

Yep. And yet another way we are destroying the planet. We create an ungodly amount of garbage and planned obsolescence in every single area has a lot to do with it. And in many cases consumers have created the problem. I’ll take a simple example of jeans. People spending triple and quadruple the price of standard blue jeans for pairs that are made of micro thin denim and already have holes in them and have a lifespan of about a year is insane. When stuff from L.L. Bean started becoming low quality and made in China I knew we were doomed. When an American manufacturer known for high-quality and incredible guarantees gives up, ☹️

[@halfnorfolk5310]

I have to agree with you on this! We live in a "throw away" society in this modern age. People once bought clothes with the intentions that they would last long enough to be repaired many times, if needed, and could be handed down. Now, people buy lots of clothes and get rid of just as many because clothes are made of cheap materials and they are not as durable. Fashion is based on mass consumerism and getting the consumer to constantly rotate their wardrobes for more clothes. I hate that it is harder for me to find quality stuff I like at affordable prices which leads me to thrift more for quality pieces.

[@istvantoth7431]

@@michaelbell3952 Partly, but not necessarily ... the 'supply and demand' effect was in motion back then too ... My grandfather and father had to go to a shop just like we do today. So this fundamental idea in and of itself is good. But corporation abusing this, >>deliberately producing

[@scsmith4604]

His point about A&F is spot on. I bought a shirt from them in 1995 after graduating from college. It was a classic-style button-down shirt with a button-down collar. It was a high-quality shirt. That shirt lasted me over 20 years but I doubt anything they sold 10 years ago is around today.

[@SvdSinner]

100% polyester isn't automatically bad. Microfiber polyester is a fantastic, comfortable, durable, and good-looking fabric. I've had several custom casual pants made from microfiber and they are still getting compliments many years after they were made. I still have pairs made in the '90s that look like new even after 100s of wearings.

[@jtee5957]

One small clarification: Fabric isn’t a resource separate from labor. It was laboriously produced by dozens of skilled craftsmen from raw materials like Cotten, flax and sheep hair. So the price of clothing in the old days was mostly linked to labor costs (with the exception of rare fabrics imported from afar like Chinese silk)

[@Spider-Too-Too]

First world tailors don’t care about people in the supply chain. 🥴

[@rustyshackleford17]

Exactly back in the day. Producing the fabric itself was exceptionally labor-intensive and the output was low. Look at how selvedge denim or tweed was produced. That's not including the labor involved with harvesting the material. The cutting/sewing represented a minor part of it. Chupe socks are made on old machinery that can only put out 23-25 pair a day. Modern machinery can produce more fabric in a few minutes than what people could do in a day or a week.

[@bighands69]

@@rustyshackleford17 There is a middle ground were production can be high but not so high that the output is junk. Meaning costs can be kept down but quality can still be good.

[@otto_jk]

@@bighands69 there is... Uniqlo for example makes quality t shirts and such, all my old Lee and wrangler jeans are still in great condition

[@joshuasteele4498]

Excellent phrasing there: Quality is enjoyed well after price is forgotten

[@chiane1968]

One thing that is so noticeably different about old homes is how small bedroom closets were, like 30” wide. People just didn’t own that big a wardrobe. Clothes had to last when you owned 5 sets of them. Now master closets are the size bedrooms. Clothes are just more abundant and accessible now. You don’t wear them as often when you own 100 shirts, they don’t have to be so well made to wear 3 times a year. And if they do fall apart, just buy more.

[@billybenson3834]

Men's Warehouse bought Botany 500 and discontinued it. A good friend of mine inherited his father's fine menswear business, it was an annual event to buy a set of nice clothing growing up and even as an adult I went there for fitted sport coats and quality shirts. When Dockers came out then followed by Anders Menswear (now Men's Warehouse) it killed his business.

[@LatimusChadimus]

It seems as if the passion for classic Menswear is disappearing, as many associate it with specific jobs, and then it is purchased for the sake of looking the part, instead of enjoying it by choice

[@gaiuscatullus3829]

I love how detailed this analysis is. I’ve seen similar analyses that tend to limit themselves to blanket and simplistic arguments about “people aren’t interested in how they look anymore” and how people have become “lazy.” As you’ve discussed, changes in market trends and marketing tactics as a well as a modern capitalism focused on profit maximization are massive contributors to a decline in, not only clothing quality, but also the quality of products in general. I always appreciate nuance you include in your videos.

[@고영환-y9i]

I agree.. Due to this Covid, we cannot go out freely and all we wear from morning to late night are pajamas and something comfortable. But after we can conquer this virus, we could once again go back to our favorite shops, visit regular tailor and spend time and moments together. Keep up the good work, sir! From a SOUTH Korean fan.

[@comicog3]

I loved the introduction. I've spent the last 4 years studying both politics and economics, becoming directly involved in the former, and your take regarding the decline in quality of garments and how everyone is to blame yet no one is, was really great. I love to hear trade deals like NAFTA come up in videos that aren't inherently "political," as their influence on our culture and economy is undeniable. I have a few video suggestions, hopefully they come into being some day. There are some interesting brands out there that deliver a lux sartorial casual look, like Informale and Craftsman Clothing. I'd love to see you review their offerings. Additionally, I'd be curious to hear your take on street fashion, which, on the high end of things, has been drawing inspiration from classical style for a while now. Unstructured overcoats paired with a t shirt or hoodie and sneakers is a fairly common sight on Instagram, as are high waisted trousers with pleats and classically inspired patterns. I know no one at TGG is likely to indulge in the look anytime in the future, but I'd love to hear your take nonetheless.

[@christianleblanc2842]

I still wear a pair of gray wool dress pants that I bought more than 33 years ago.

[@Cyber-Rain]

I've always hated planned obsolescence and the makings of a cheap product for a cheap buck. Quality over quantity. Some big companies cut so many corners that it's easy for a new company to make a killing when they bring authenticity and high quality materials and labor. Unfortunately, that company may get bought by the bigger corner cutting companies.

[@nancyoffenhiser4916]

I still don't understand how people can pay hundreds of dollars for a pair of jeans that have rips in them.

[@Egilhelmson]

Good! Now, if we can just clone you a few million times ...

[@ItsMikeArre]

I have a couple cheap suits from h&m & Zara that I use daily but I have a 2 suits from Brioni & Tom Ford that def get more compliments when I wear and they feel better also

[@hanneshendigl6026]

Oh wow a brioni is a grail for me. I just got my architecture degree and this will be on my get list. What do you do for a living if i may ask?

[@ItsMikeArre]

@@hanneshendigl6026 I got it 2nd hand for about 500 just had to fix the pants the jacket fit spot on but I’m in accounting

[@hanneshendigl6026]

@@ItsMikeArre thats awesome

[@paulbielen9233]

@@hanneshendigl6026 Hannes. Come to San Francisco there is a second hand/consignment store for men’s high end line clothes that the super wealthy men drop off all the time. Brioni and more.called Goodbyes. Worth a plane ticket to SF. Shoes belts jackets etc.

[@hanneshendigl6026]

@@paulbielen9233 i am over here in germany but I was never in the US and iwas planning it until corona came, i appreciate your insider tip very much my friend. Thank you

[@tanmaydeshpande108]

Thank you, Raphel, for educating us on what we should focus on and the importance of quality. I have bought a polyester + cotton shirt but now I am regretting it.

[@hydroaegis6658]

It's not dead, it's just rarer. The chase to the bottom in prices has caused most people to just wear low quality imitation clothing.

[@fuckkatuas2837]

It is dead. Remote work means you can wear pyjamas all day long. Heck, there are suit filters for zoom.

[@louio]

​@@fuckkatuas2837 sad......

[@dantosinferne]

I recently decided to try out higher quality linen and wool clothing. Still waiting to actually try them, but I'm excited and will likely slowly switch my whole warddrobe over. I'm sick of cheap clothes that don't last. i got a linen dress, a wool skirt, a merino sweater, and i'm going to buy a vintage wool coat soon. i also got some wool socks that i've been trying out. not sure how i feel about the wool socks so far, as they aren't as soft or stretchy as the plastic socks i have, but they do seem to keep my feet at a more comfortable temperature, and they don't seem to slide around as much as the 'soft' socks. it takes me a long time to get used to new things, so i'm not going to judge until i've gone through a season in them. An extra suggestion, is to switch from plush cotton towels to linen ones! they are a little rougher than plush towels, at least at first, but i actually prefer the feeling. They dry you better, and they airdry faster, they stay cleaner longer, and they last MUCH longer. PLUS, they fold down much smaller and are lighter. They get BETTER over time too, instead of getting worse like cotton towels. just make sure to find good linen. it seems like the good stuff will cost about 30-40 usd, but the one i tried already tells me it was so worth it. and if you have to go with plush towels, get turkish cotton at least.

[@profiler4772]

So right. I treasure my Daks and Burberry jackets and suits I bought ages ago and they don't even look oldfashioned. But I have the impression people don't like to dress up anymore themselves but rather look at the jet-set tossing themselves out. They don't know what it feels like to go to a concert and dine out or have forgotten it. I do wish for the younger people that these times come back.

[@bighands69]

I am going to give you a reality that you may not like but I am going to say it. Western culture is in decline and at some point will collapse. The birth rate in every Western country is now below replacement level. Germany has a birth rate of 1.5 and an average age of 45 years. In the year 1970 germany had a birth rate of 2.2 and the average age was 32 years of age. It used to be that younger generations would come and challenge the older generation but right now it is the older generations that are controlling the younger generations.

[@sskies4972]

This was very prominent at my eighth grade graduation. Most people were wearing jeans and a t-shirt, some even wearing sweats or shorts. (Lots of floral/hawaiian shirts with khaki shorts and sandles 😬.) But, I was one of about five people wearing a suit or blazer with odd trousers. My suit was black, with a white shirt and a carbon-fiber-esk design on the tie (same design was on my modern belt buckle). Also had a inexpensive watch from Armitron with a blue face and silver band. Felt very good that day, really opened my eyes about the decline of style in menswear nowadays.

[@harrysclub007]

Quality is only for those who do We love you man

[@chedelirio6984]

"The average garment is worn seven times" ...looks at a *non*-luxury-brand shirt, bought in 2002, that still looks good. Shakes head.

[@MrDanielWP]

Honestly, I have synthetic fabric pants that I have kept for 12 years. Worn them probably 500 times.

[@akureikorineko]

7 times seems incredibly low. I wear my clothing until they basically fall apart. Ive worn band t-shirts like 300 times over the past 3 years.

[@rlkinnard]

@@MrDanielWP I have Armani thick wool pants that i wear every winter that I bought around 1980 and are still in very good condition. I must have worn them 1000 times. I wore them less last winter only due to Covid.

[@Burnsomatic]

Excellent video. Makes great sense. (I would prefer no background music while you are talking. I always find that irritating and distracting.) Your clear, to the point, sensible, and well timed speech is enough (for me).

[@SuperGuanine]

I agree that the music is irritating. Keeps me from watching the video.

[@stephencooper5040]

9:44 Abercrombie and Fitch was also a supplier to both the United States Navy AND the Marine Corps. Peacoats for the Navy and the trench coat for the Marines I think. You can find vintage issued Navy peacoats with the "Abercrombie and Fitch made for DSCP" tag in them.

[@madsborup9659]

I can imagine Raphael sitting in a dark room alone, yelling “NO, NOT NECESSARILY!” At his computer.

[@qwazimodoreper]

why

[@madsborup9659]

@@qwazimodoreper i was referencing the Video, and it seems like a characteristically polite thing for Raphael to yell.

[@heronblue3577]

Brooks Brothers is a great example of being family owned then being sold over and over again to private investment companies that slowly lower the quality while keeping the same prices. Maximising profits and rinsing the company and its legacy for a few decades then selling it off. Such a shame.

[@seanacameron8940]

Sven, my dad always dressed fine for work. He had a closet for his suit, and there was a tailor in town where he would purchase his suits and shirts. I make sure my husband always dresses well. We have a shop he goes to that knows us well. LOL Wonderful service,, and knows what will go well with his height and colouring. As I added before, shall bring his attention to your beautiful socks. They are so very fine. As our lads are Head chefs, they have little free time. But they both have nice chapeaus. And very nice outdoor coats and jackets. You are so very helpful. Thanks, and please take care. Warmly, S.

[@attila535]

Meanwhile my family is the complete opposite. We take the motto of "It aint broke, don't fix it." to the extreme. I still have stuff I had in highschool, then again my mom was a seamstress and she can spot bad quality from a mile away, while also fixing any piece of clothing.

[@surrealbeauty4520]

This is amazing! Thank you for putting out this quality content.

[@seawall5102]

Not only has quality menswear declined in the states, but good manners and courtesy has as well. They go hand-in-hand.

[@patricktrussell7465]

Seawall , right you are . A country with a 60% obesity rate , poor manners , P.C. , dumb -down culture , massive television watching , and men who dress like a 12 year old boy going to a neighborhood pool party is certainly not headed in the correct direction .

[@mikethomas203]

Society was much better when certain…urban…elements were much better contained.

[@tj-co9go]

Hmm anything to do with the rise of neoliberalism and capitalism in the US? Popular culture has become mindless, numb and dumb entertainment. I get branded a snob for liking classical music, old literature and vintage fashion

[@steampunk888]

We are moving toward a world where nobody leaves the house. Everything is delivered, everything can be done at home. People will have to decide whether they want to keep moving in that direction.

[@zoukatron]

And, without wanting to get heavily political, there are powerful people who want us to be stuck in our boxes and renting our clothes.

[@countalma9800]

Well, those things aren’t delivered to you by some robots. They are delivered by humans. So, those people actually leave their houses and go to work. And before those products, or food, end up at your front door, they have to be produced. So, some people actually produce something real and physical. The moment your faucet or toilet stop working, you call the people who will show up and do the work. No matter how powerful the internet might be, physical labor will exist for as long as humanity exists. People might go less to theaters, movie theaters, and shopping malls, but restaurants have never been more popular, and when the pandemic is over, there will be an even greater demand. Physical shopping is unlikely to ever cease to exist either. It’s just a very different experience from shopping online.

[@Ambugginfly]

Yes, Wall-E looks more like a prophetic documentary every year that passes.

[@bighands69]

@@countalma9800 You are talking about people being out in the real world doing things but they are slowly starting to become a minority.

[@fishwigy]

Good morning, Raphael. Great video.

[@scottsodyssey2485]

This isn't just with men's clothing, this is clothing in general. With the majority of clothes made in Asian sweatshops it is very hard to find quality long lasting clothes. Don't even get me started on shoes, the materials shoes are made with today they are not made to last, they are literally disposable. Take most shoes to a cobbler to be resoled they will tell its not worth it. The shoe will literally fall apart. They are not made to last anymore.

[@kidaria1333]

wearing low quality sneakers all the time already in childhood days without a proper sole is also effecting foot and back health problems on top of too much sitting before screens.

[@louio]

​@@kidaria1333paying for it now, getting low back pain from wearing vans and nikes all my life

[@edwardmclaughlin7935]

Quality menswear - its relegation to the margin, was the product of the act of 'branding' and the cultivation of those brands to iconic status. This phenomenon led the buying public from an appreciation for style and craftsmanship, to the crass adoration of and display of 'the label'.

[@bighands69]

I am afraid the problems being seen in western culture have nothing to do with branding or corporations. Creativity has been in steady decline over the last few generations. The current birth rate in every western country is below replacement level and this will end in collapse. Man has not been to the moon since 1972 and today's cars are of a lower quality than cars in 1972.

[@markbrailsford2849]

Great video AGAIN, on the subject of quality brands not being made the same way as they used to be, Barbour have gone way down my list of great British manufacturers. My 25 year old Barbour Border jacket is still going strong but a recent purchase of a Barbour international jacket has been replaced twice because of quality issues and also it is, as is a lot of Barbour clothing, not made in UK, which is a shame because Barbour stood for British quality but now the company seems to be geared to making profit instead of making quality items. It's sad to see so many companies go this way.

[@Boselaphus]

This is sad story. We have to make them by ourselves with the help of reputable tailors, I think its going to be difficult to find a tailor like that. But if you dont want that to happen, its not too late, start wearing classic men's wear and hit the street with a lot of stares and you will influence a lot of people. Thats one plan.

[@Egilhelmson]

@@bhvghvfy The best that I have ever got out of a dry cleaners is a bunch of great ties that, except for one, I took a decade to find something to wear them with. Just $1 apiece, though. Tailors separate from stores, I have found, but never had anything to give them to fix. Then they closed or moved, and behold, I had a bunch of pieces that could use a good tailor :-) .

[@Egilhelmson]

@@bhvghvfy The best that I have ever got out of a dry cleaners is a bunch of great ties that, except for one, I took a decade to find something to wear them with. Just $1 apiece, though. Tailors separate from stores, I have found, but never had anything to give them to fix. Then they closed or moved, and behold, I had a bunch of pieces that could use a good tailor :-) .

[@Egilhelmson]

@@bhvghvfy The best that I have ever got out of a dry cleaners is a bunch of great ties that, except for one, I took a decade to find something to wear them with. Just $1 apiece, though. Tailors separate from stores, I have found, but never had anything to give them to fix. Then they closed or moved, and behold, I had a bunch of pieces that could use a good tailor :-) .

[@Egilhelmson]

@@bhvghvfy The best that I have ever got out of a dry cleaners is a bunch of great ties that, except for one, I took a decade to find something to wear them with. Just $1 apiece, though. Tailors separate from stores, I have found, but never had anything to give them to fix. Then they closed or moved, and behold, I had a bunch of pieces that could use a good tailor :-) .

[@vincentdecandido7782]

The staple menswear brands (example: Burberry) have jacked up their prices to a point where younger men can’t afford them, while bringing the quality down in most cases. therefore we go through our style journeys without them.

[@KyaloMutiso]

100% Burberry has just gone through the roof, hard to justify the price.

[@scrambaba]

Burberry is a prime example of a great brand taken over by the mbas and marketers and flogging their products for maximum profit and minimal class.

[@bighands69]

@@scrambaba It is more than that. The whole economic culture has shifted and government over regulation has pushed the market up and up. I know several business owners that have moved the manufacturing out of the UK not because it is cheaper elsewhere but due to the fact they face a lot less regulations. Dyson tried to get a factor built in the UK but had to abandon it as they kept finding resistance at every level of the civil service run economy.

[@scrambaba]

@@bighands69 “over regulation” relative to where? Cyprus? Luxemburg? Some other tax haven? This only proves my point. When formerly honourable corporations are taken over by the greedy grasping types this is exactly what they do.

[@jknw7033]

Could you please to a video about the historical accuracy of the clothing in boardwalk empire, like you did for mad Men?

[@canadafree2087]

On a similar theme, I suggest you also watch, "History of the suit in 22 Minutes", "Shirt Collar Styles For Men: A Complete Guide-Point, Spread, Cutaway, and More" and "10 TV Shows Every Menswear Fan Should Watch.

[@claytonberg721]

I would appreciate that as well.

[@williamfloyd4669]

I've really become quality conscious over the last 5 years. I find myself asking before I buy a piece how often I'll actually wear this. Or check the stitching for stitch count.

[@paladinclothiers3628]

Great video, I don't like the throw away culture, so i appreciate quality. We all need to make a big push so that when people get out of lockdown, start going out and mingling that there is a massive resurgence to high quality clothing such as suits etc. I've got 15 articles ready for large publications around the web pushing for a move back to dressing well that I'll publish when the lockdowns are over. Let's all make a push for getting dressed up when this is over. If we make it popular, it will be popular.

[@AntPDC]

Thank you very much. These histories of yours are both fascinating and highly informative, as well as beautifully done.

[@nickbono8]

My style has moved from fast fashion(ish) to more high quality since I’ve grown older and started making money. Quality doesn’t have to be one style either. I have a mix styles I wear depending of the situation. I wear classic for nice dinners or gatherings, casual for errands, utilitarian for work. It’s not a lot of clothes, but they are higher quality so I get more uses out of them.

[@fnef6664]

French and italian iconic tailoring houses Are going strong 🙌🏾💪🏽

[@lordrobert12]

Yes, the frogs and the monsters now set the set standard, whereas, as in the old days true timeless elegance and style began in the UK!!

[@MatthewJBD]

Prices going up, quality going down. People also own a lot more clothing/outfits now so cost per wear matters less.

[@raychii7361]

????????????? Cloths are cheap. Housing on the other hand😱😱😱😱😱😱😱

[@claybarbaro4353]

Could you guys do a southern style video, like a kind of formal style of southern style with styles from eras like the 30s-60s

[@claybarbaro4353]

Thanks I will 👍

[@rv8-m948]

Nice presentation and history lesson. Just my personal observation, but the pinstripe suit at 11:12 does make you look taller and thinner; at least in the video. Conversely, I can't say I am a fan of blue shoes, purple socks, and brown slacks with gray herringbone. Again thanks for a very informative video.

[@tj-co9go]

20:35 polyester works for raincoats well though, and good for a classic look

[@lennartt3194]

What a great video, it really encapsulates so much of the thoughts that I appreciate about the gentleman’s gazette!! Definitely my new go-to video when I introduce friends to the gentleman’s gazette and their approach to style (and Humor :D)

[@kurtmueller2089]

I am currently reading the book "Deluxe - How luxury lost its luster" and it has been eye opening because it explains the entire history of luxury (and luxury brands) from Luis XIV all the way to today (or at least 2007, when the book came out). The corners that are being cut nowadays would have been unthinkable 50-70 years ago.

[@TRAVISxAARON]

The quality of menswear has not declined. The quality of the men WEARING the menswear has declined. We need to take our appearance more seriously again!

[@jakekaywell5972]

Personally, I only buy vintage items online that don't require sizing. Neckties and mechanical watches come to mind. For larger clothes, I just wear my father's old stock tailored to me. One example is a Brioni velvet smoking jacket from the 90s, black with white pinstripes. A favorite of mine. Great video as well!

[@TuomioK]

I really appreciate quality in everything essentially. I wear suit only for special occasions but I have grown to like stylish things more and more. While my style has never been near classical I have always possessed pretty good eye for quality. My wardrobe speaks for itself in that I have few clothes in good shape that are over decade old. I am pretty young so some clothes just aint my style anymore. To me it is baffling that someone would buy anything to wear only seven times. Excluding some special wear for some unique occasion. But generally for everyday use I cant understand that kind of wastefullness…

[@sholemepstein]

I admire the Edwardian era fashions worn by the wealthy. The formality of proper clothes for different times of the day is something I find appealing if not practical if one can not afford a valet. A few years ago I broke my hip and it never set correctly which means I can use canes without it looking like an affectation. I have a collection based on what a gentleman from 1900 though the 1920s might carry.

[@ColinLack]

one of my hopes is that I can bring awareness to good quality clothing via my streaming platform.

[@stevecowart395]

Understanding the difference between “fashion” and “style” is a great start.

[@latristessdurera8763]

For me , I now think of my wardrobe as a whole. I have direction now and know what I want and I like to save for it. If I’ve saved for it, I’m more intent on keeping it in good condition. Intentional shopping is the way forward.

[@KlingonCaptain]

"The average garment is worn seven times?" I've never heard of such a thing? If I buy something I wear it regularly for about four years (or more), until it starts looking shabby. And I mean really shabby. As long as it doesn't have any visible stains. It goes through a cycle. When I first buy something I use it as Sunday wear, then for casual Fridays, then about town every day wear, then outdoors wear when I visit friends in the country. After that I donate it to a clothing shop like Goodwill or The Repeat Boutique.

[@rlkinnard]

When i am done with my clothes, Goodwill would be offended by a donation.

[@hansobermann4871]

Hello everybody! Hi Raphael. Stay well. Great presentation. I wear since the 60ies only handmade handwoven and natural materials. They please me most.

[@rustyshackleford17]

A lot of it is personal values and expectations from an article of clothing. If you go out and charge me $400 for a jacket, it better last a long time. If you charge me $15 for a jacket, it'd grumble a bit but wouldn't be that upset if it failed within a year. For me, I grew up with my father buying cheap stuff. Cheap stuff always fails at inopportune times. When you find yourself in a remote part of the world, four day hike from the nearest town quality seems a bit more appealing. I learned in my early 20s that it's simply best (for me) to buy the most durable products I could afford. I wore a pair of boots for a decade before they finally bit the dust. I had work pants worn 2-3 times a week last up to eight years. They more than paid for themselves. That said, the only two things that I'll cheap out on are undershirts and underwear. Because there is no such thing as a comfortable and durable undershirt/underwear. That $70 boxer will fail much earlier than the $5 pair

[@kidaria1333]

Many people like to get new things every year so they do not bother that the cloth do not last long. Unhealthy spirit of the time.

[@julijakeit]

Quality clothing now come from fair, affordable and quality capsule wardrobe creators. One just need to look for them as previously booming middle range brands are dying out, same with shopping malls.

[@YouTubeHandlerz]

You forget to mention about the rise of Outlets and Factory Stores. Other specialty shops such as TK Maxx

[@samanthab1923]

Always did better at Marshall's & TJs than the Outlets. Did go to Reading years ago. Coach & Burberry were worth it.

[@gregorymoore7171]

I’m currently trying to rebuild my wardrobe after 20 years in campus ministry. The necessities of the job often suit denim and t-shirts more than tweed and broadcloth. I recently purchased a pair of slacks in worsted wool whipcord from an American company called Johnson Woolen Mills. After receiving the pants, I wore them for nearly three days solid at a conference in Indiana. They were so comfortable and fit so well that I just ordered another pair in a heavier herringbone. They weren’t cheap, but they’re built like a tank.

[@tj-co9go]

I don't trust online stores because I can't feel and touch the fabric. Unfortunately, most brands in Finland are low-quality. So, there's only a few places worth going to

[@LatimusChadimus]

Having been born blonde haired and blue-eyed, being mostly German, I am prone to have sensitive eyes and skin, and polyester will make me itchy, and sometimes turn areas of my skin red

[@cecilyerker]

Stay away from unnatural fibers

[@ivancho5854]

Our Neanderthal genes do have disadvantages. Unfortunately my summer complection resembles a radish.

[@LatimusChadimus]

@@cecilyerker i do. It's all cottons and linens. I can tan and the bit of Italian in me gave me brown hair, yet even certain perfumes irritate my skin

[@ilmizarnanda]

I'm 25 years old and i love to dress up.and this video really answer the problem why todays menswear become low quality. Tht's why i love buy vintage.most of my wardrobe are vintage.from shoes ,shirts and jacket and sweater.and i love it.

[@deltasquared7777]

Billy Reid and Robert Barrett are extremely good clothes--just not in 'old people' styles.

[@deltasquared7777]

sorry--in too much of a hurry--its Robert Barakett, who makes excellent, sturdy, well designed, attractive clothing at very moderate prices...Billy Reid is more pricey but outstanding . Billy Reid stands up well in comparison against any clothing maker and is well worth the cost. Both make clothing that is a great combination ... contemporary and timeless.

[@deltasquared7777]

Theory also makes excellent clothing

[@prince573]

Well done, as always!!! 😉👍🏿

[@midas1929]

Quality, not cheap, but still affordable compared to others: Socks: Bresciani Shoes: TLB Mallorca and Meccariello Shirts: Howard's Paris and D'Avino Napoli Ties: Petronius and Calabrese

[@admiralbernardino1476]

Yeah, whenever I could, I would always prefer quality over quantity for my style of choice. If I am to base my ideals from my life as a boy scout during my high school years as I do, quality for me is defined by durable, comfortable and practical. My basis would often be my uniform and similarly good quality clothing I had before I got my first neckerchief.

[@dees9502]

Brooks Brothers’ closing of US manufacturing is a big disappointment. Been shopping with them for thirty years 😕. Yet another great video, mate 👍

[@samanthab1923]

Will miss them. My son still has a lot of stuff from them.

[@markalexander774]

Another reason that I think is actually significant, is that a much higher percentage of our population lives in warmer parts of our country than they did 100 years ago. California, Texas, Arizona, Florida, etc. all have had massive population increases in the last 100 years. This matters because most high end clothes are suitable for cold weather. Things like linen and seersucker are a small percentage of high end clothing. Most suits are wool, silk, and cheap ones are polyester/cotton blends. Have you ever worn a wool suit in Phoenix, San Antonio, Orlando, or Sacramento in the middle of the summer? When it is over 100 degrees, it is uncomfortable for me to even wear pants at all, let alone a wool suit. I like dressing nice, but in the summer, I rock a pair of shorts, a T-shirt, and a pair of slip-on Vans most of the time, and I still overheat. And when you think that a huge percentage of our media is in the Los Angeles area, it makes sense that a lot of the people we see are not wearing wool suits unless they are walking the red carpet or are a news anchor. When most of our country lived in the northeast and the Midwest, it made sense that the three piece suit caught on. I do not believe that this is the main reason, but I do think it plays a role.

[@janoschfoerster2921]

These videos are not vintage, but the quality is outstanding. I'm happy you will get your first million subscribers soon!

[@wheretonow6172]

I would agree with the title but reality tells me otherwise. I wore a gorgeous suit and tie to meet a client. My plan was to get to the airport, change into something more comfortable to fly home. The client meeting ran late, no time to change and while boarding the plane the ticket taker was a young, very attractive 20 something. As she grabbed my ticket she seemingly accidentally and very loudly blurted out, "WOW GORGEOUS SUIT!" I would never expect this in 2021, never expect this in San Jose (silicon valley), and never expect this from a 20 something. My assessment? Men's classic clothing will never go out of style. It's appreciated now more than ever because it's so rare. What a great ego boost for a man beyond 50 years of age. Btw my shoes were old school wing tips. I believe they will never go out of style.

[@jamescreaton8390]

The key message for me in this video for me is "Dont wear something because its what everybody else is wearing, wear what you like to wear and what suits your body shape". I pride myself on my dress sense and that I am not a "sheep" who copies the majority, for instance I dont own a pair of trainers/sneakers or a pair of jeans or a baseball cap or hoodie. There is no OLD TASTE or NEW TASTE, only GOOD TASTE and BAD TASTE!

[@kidaria1333]

this is easier said as done. And I think the main problem is not even style but quality. You rarely get middle to higher quality for a good deal anymore. Either cheap or really expensive. Nothing in the middle. And even lots of expensive very hugh quality brands have to close. It is sad.

[@tridoc99]

I think the decline in quality is related to a decline in demand. People don’t dress up as much as they used to. There was a time when people dressed up to fly. Even 4 years ago at my daughter’s Confirmation, every child had a nice dress or a suit, and the parents were dressed up too. This year at my son’s Confirmation he was the only boy in a suit, and me and my brother and one other man were the only adults in a suit. We were already sliding before Covid and working from home in our pajamas put the nail in the coffin, unfortunately. It won’t be long before people go from Walmart to a wedding in only their finest sleepwear.

[@websurfer8670]

Watching this chanel single handedly changed how i dress.

[@benjaminharrisongray9079]

Quality menswear (and ladieswear, for that matter) will not fully come back unless we take it back. If you out there want it to happen, you can make it happen.

[@ivancho5854]

It will only happen if there is money to be made unfortunately.

[@MAlley-fm4et]

How many materials or patterns are made from the same fabric? The only thing different is the name, what store it comes from. My buddy bought a thousand dollar suit. I bought a $170 dollar suit made from the same fabric. Names were different but i had my suit fit sporty he didn't. I got more compliments. It's about how you wear the suits.

[@rudyberkvens-be]

This may be your best production thus far. Great investigation, thoroughly argumented, and proven ethics and values. Congratulations, I am more a fan than ever.

[@michaelmason4206]

Excellent overview. You have developed a top flight channel!

[@carolineruof6034]

...when I start watching Gentleman's Gazette for the first time and I can spot a fellow half Brazilian lol

[@jacobshore]

The statistic that the average article of clothing is only worn 7 times is misleading. It doesn't mean the manufacturer makes it to last 7 times. It's an average. Many clothes manufactured are never worn.

[@tj-co9go]

I can feel the tears in your voice when explaining the topic and I don't wonder why at all. Personally, I buy all my clothes second-hand nowadays and they are even better quality than new clothes, unfortunately

[@AKaufman]

Agree, clothing prices going up. Quality going down. Ralph Lauren, Lacoste. Ect..

[@O.Shawabkeh]

A quality and unique content as usual However, the background music is quite distracting

[@SuperGuanine]

HATE the music.

[@bluestripetiger]

There will always be a demand for fine men's clothing, but the prices are out of control. The industry is not in touch with the reality of everyday americans. Even stuff like men's warehouse, that supposedly is fine men's clothing at affordable prices, is actually quite marked up. This is why there's been such a huge drop in clientele and why fine men's stores were going out of business long before COVID 19 hit. Today's culture is a lot less formal, so there isn't as large a need. So if you don't make it worth men's while to buy at your store people are just going to say 'i can do without it.' Average rent these days near the nyc metro area is close to 1400 to 1800 dollars for an apt, so you cant be charging people $800 to $900 for one quality suit.

[@louio]

Don't live in an overrated major city, that's your first problem

[@markcollins7431]

I'm listening to your video whilst making a bespoke Harris tweed waistcoat for a client. Great video, I'll look out for more of them.