3 Types of Shirts: MTM vs OTR vs Bespoke (2/3)

[@borisha1907]

I“d love to hear your recommendations for MTM companies. Though bespoke is always superior.

[@akimbofurry2179]

I would recommend Etsy, GothiqueRoseApparel has some nice shirts, she can do cuff links and makes some nice button-ups, Though she tends to favor more antique designs, you can find a lot of nice makers, that are mom and pop esq shops.

[@ObligatoryPun]

@@akimbofurry2179 foh

[@veitno]

I have had great experiences with Emanuel Berg shirts, the endproduct is amazing and you have a large amount of cuffs, collars and fabrics to choose from

[@haydenvincent8821]

I've been following this channel for 2-3 years now. I would love it if you did a video explaining the differences in quality of leather. Possibly even breakdown the use of different animal (nappa lamb, snake skin, etc)

[@Jim58223]

9:17 'Made in Asia', yea that really narrows it down. Wish companies would disclose exactly where a product is made. Seems like they're trying to hide something when they're purposefully vague like this. Most likely because if people saw the specific asian country where it was made they would avoid it.

[@MrNavajo1]

Bespoke is definitely my favourite, you have that 1 of 1 exclusive feeling. I recommend this to all

[@Michaeladechatillon]

Well thought out, very impressed with the detail in this video. I appreciate your knowledge and sharing it with us mere style mortals 🙏

[@karlenglewood8940]

Finally, been waiting on this for a while. Can't wait for part 3

[@BlueJayWaters]

I ended up going the MTM route because of my body proportions never fitting well in OTR shirts, and though I was limited in my options because I wanted a cocktail cuff, Deo Veritas made a very close to perfect shirt. I won't ever buy OTR again, but I'm still not sure if I want to spend $200+ on 1 bespoke shirt.

[@timothyreed8417]

Another wonderful video. I have the same shoulder problem...looking forward to part 3... Could you do a video on braces. How to fit properly, types, etc...thanks in advance.....

[@edmackdaddy]

Preston's evil twin finally shows up, Now the show is getting good.

[@InformationRequired]

Really enjoying this series! Good work guys.

[@norwegianwarhound451]

I don't have a huge need for suits, shirts and other formal wear. I am interested in online shopping for classic pieces, but there isn't much to offer in small town Iowa as far as measuring or tailors. Are there any big box stores (Men's Wearhouse and such) that you would recommend getting the measurements I need to buy on eBay and thrift stores? What is the bear minimum of measurements to do so? Love your channel. New subscriber and learning a lot!

[@CoverofWinter]

It can be really difficult to take perfect measurements by yourself but if you have someone it's easy to guide them with a walkthrough. Nordstrom can be ok, ebay I would only recommend after you already know what you like and what you are getting. The quality of thrift stores depends on your area so you can check them out but no guarantee of anything. Probably traveling to Chicago would be your best bet to get a good deal and finding exactly what you want

[@thedrunkbrit5857]

Could you do a video on fairsile jumpers.

[@renaissancestatesman]

So a tier list for MTM coming soon I hope.

[@gkmandigo]

Thank you so much for this video. You have me thoroughly intrigued about the idea of ordering an MTM shirt. As others have commented, I would love to hear your take on the available MTM companies. Recognizing your observation that those often change I wanted to suggest a fun series that would give some great content over several videos that would help us understand the process. I would suggest that 3-to-5 MTM providers be identified based, as best is possible, their prevalence in the market and maybe a mix of manufacturing locations. Say, three that do the work in Asia, one in Europe and one in the US, for example. Then have each of the three presenters order a shirt with the makeup of their choosing from all of the suppliers. Without comparing notes with the other presenters until the end, which could be the video for each manufacturer, they would rate their experience throughout the process. Ease of use of the web site, how well they handle the measuring process, range of features, options and ease of ordering; quality and fit of the shirt itself and overall value based on the price for the product received. There could be one last video with the three presenters discussing who they felt were the best of the manufacturers and why. Even if down the road the players change, watching you go through the process can be very helpful to someone trying to do it themselves and assessing their options at the time. Kudos again for your great content, I thoroughly enjoyed it!

[@pjyast]

my summary: Made-to-measure, off-the-rack, and bespoke shirts are three different options for purchasing men's shirts, each with its own characteristics and benefits. Off-the-rack shirts are mass-produced and come in standard sizes, usually in small, medium, large, or extra-large. They are typically less expensive than made-to-measure or bespoke shirts and are readily available in stores or online. However, because they are not tailored to the individual's specific measurements, the fit may not be perfect. Made-to-measure shirts are made to an individual's specific measurements but are not completely custom-made. A pre-existing pattern is adjusted to fit the individual's measurements, and some customization options may be available, such as collar style and fabric choices. Made-to-measure shirts usually cost more than off-the-rack but less than bespoke, and they offer a better fit than off-the-rack shirts. Bespoke shirts are fully custom-made to an individual's exact measurements and preferences. The process involves creating a unique pattern based on the individual's measurements and shape, selecting fabrics, and customizing every aspect of the shirt, including collar style, cuffs, and buttons. Bespoke shirts are the most expensive option but offer the highest level of customization and the best fit. In summary, off-the-rack shirts are the most affordable but offer the least customization, while made-to-measure shirts offer a better fit and more customization options. Bespoke shirts are the most expensive but provide the highest level of customization and a perfect fit.

[@Aggnog]

100 hands shirts are offered by the Armoury, a good indication that they are the real deal.

[@danielduggan5405]

Nice thorough video. So far the only experience with MTM shirts I have is Proper Cloth, but it has been an extremely positive one. Are their shirts perfect? No, but if I had a choice of an OTR shirt for the same price, I'd go for MTM every time.

[@ggilluminati4202]

It would be really helpfull if you provided us in these 2 first videos with companies that produce good off the rack and made to meassure shirts (online) so that we can get examples on where we can start out and wich companies are at what cost and produce at what level of quality.

[@gentlemansgazette]

The problem is companies change a lot , and quickly. Just because they out out a great shirt last year, does not mean that is still the case. Also it would have made the videos super long. It is better to deal with brands in separate videos, Not all in one

[@MisterRorschach90]

I’ve been thinking about it (even though it probably doesn’t matter because I wouldn’t have the opportunity) would I rather have a bunch of high end off the rack and altered clothes because I like all the styles available, or would I rather have a small bespoke wardrobe? I think ultimately I would rather have a completely bespoke wardrobe that is perfectly fitted to me, where every color and pattern is chosen so that every item can be worn together and layered. And all out of the highest end fabrics possible. Baby cashmere, Koigu Kersti Cashmere, vicuña, shahtoosh, Guanaco, selvaged denim, 12mill 12mill wool, Giza 45, Belgian linen, lotus flower, Mulberry, Muga, Spider, velvet and Charmeuse silks, cervelt, shell Cordovan, Napa, nubuck, and suede, maybe a tiny bit of croc or alligator. I’d stay away from black except for formal wear. Everything would be classic timeless pieces that are form fitting and made to layer. Boots, knitted shoes, loafers, dress shoes mostly in earthy colors. Lots of grays. I’d even want bespoke t shirts and casual wear made that can mix with everything. And then an extensive collection of ties and pocket squares made out of those materials. Sadly something like that would cost well over a million dollars. Considerably.

[@timonhebi8015]

Another great video! I would be very interested to hear your thoughts on the Olymp signature collection. I find the quality of these shirts awesome for the price of 100 euros. I was really amazed because there is such a gap between the normal Olymp shirts and the signature ones (both in quality and design).

[@DamonZB]

Hair is looking crisp today Raphael 👌🏼

[@SpamMouse]

Great - love the details and historic development.

[@eyeheartsushi2212]

I’ve been enjoying this series.

[@JIMonkey]

Man, you sure do inspire.

[@phillipmarlowe0525]

Dear Gentleman’s Gazette, What is your opinion on dress shirts with monogram initials on them?

[@MartinParnham]

What level of collar interlining would you recommend for a business/dress shirt? I know you touched on this in the video but I don't think you actually said whether medium or heavy is best?

[@martinkohne2641]

Thanks for sharing your opinion! Great video!!!

[@Wolfenkuni]

One thing you forgot to mention that makes a huge difference between MTM and off the rack is the color size. Off the rack is only characterized by the color size (And arm length). So for people with a wide neck, you can run into the issue of either wearing a tent or not be able to close the top button. (Similar a person with a small neck ends up with a huge gap.

[@gentlemansgazette]

Most better RTW shirts have a collar and sleeve size on the shirt, that does help quite a bit. If a shirt has just a collar size, it depends on how long the sleeves are for any given brand and if that works for you.

[@Wolfenkuni]

@@gentlemansgazette Sleeve length yes but not chest/stomach..... I have a relatively large neck and need a 17 3/4 inch to 18-inch color but the chest is 43''. So besides my guts, I can wear an ultra-slim fit shirt..... a regular fit 18'' feels like a tent. This made me a big fan of MTM. 18 Inch

[@LyonTheGreat]

Great video! Are there any companies you specifically recommend who adhere to as many of the quality hallmarks you mentioned as possible while still maintaining relative affordability?

[@royalbloodedledgend]

I’ve tired both RTW (from Tom Ford) & bespoke (from Huntsman), but I just can’t justify waiting for the shirt to be made when the RTW fits 95% the same as the bespoke on me. Though this is just my preference as the minimal difference in fit is not worth the inconvenience.

[@umutkaya3840]

A review video about Hockerty would be great!

[@pestoriusj]

I actually find that a MTM shirt in the most expensive fabric with all the bells and whistles is still about equivalent in price to a good off-the-rack shirt that fits me and my style.

[@TheRivalConcept]

It's 5 17 am and didn't watch the video yet but I always Bespoke ment made to order

[@AsifIqbal-hp8fk]

Can you please do video on premium brands with MTM Service?

[@MikeHaggarKJ]

Is tailorstore good?

[@markbyrum4743]

I've had my dress shirts made by Tom James Co for many years. You have a sales representative who can visit you in your office or you can go to their storefront. I have been very happy with my shirts and the relationship I've built with my representative. You might look into them and include them in a video re some entities who provide this service. Good vid. Keep at it!

[@gentlemansgazette]

Tom James approached me years ago and they made 3 suits for me and all three were not great. Maybe shirts are easier... If you have something you like, that's great. At the time it seemed like Tom James was pricey for what it was. They also owned Oxxford at the time, not sure if that is still the case

[@markbyrum4743]

@@gentlemansgazette Thanks for replying. I've only purchased their shirts. And I've been happy with them, and as important to me, my relationship with my representative. Good vid. Keep at it!

[@GEMINI-z2meri]

If I am sewing the collar pieces together how do I prevent the collar point from curling? Isn't the turn of cloth a major consideration? Also other aspects like quality of cloth and interfacing?

[@eytan2536]

If you're sewing it the proper way, upper collar and lower collar suppose to have 1/8" difference. It will make the seam invisible and the tension will cause the collar to curve gracefully (by the book). In order to skip the fine detail of not having your seam shown, just measure both upper and lower collars the same size. It should make it flat. Certainly if you use different materials you can get different results, shrinkage can make the problem more pronounced for sure.

[@GEMINI-z2meri]

@@eytan2536 I want to improve my sewing skills. I did not know about the 1/8 difference. Thank you.

[@eytan2536]

@@GEMINI-z2meri You're welcome!

[@902d]

The difference between bespoke and MTM is often a blurry one, especially with shirts. With jackets it's basically made on spot from custom model with four fittings. With shirts you cannot do fittings. Also, the details are quite standardised. If you design a collar it most definitely already exists. On the contrary, deviating from an MTM collar by requesting longer tips for example already brings you to a custom model. I believe most who think they have a bespoke shirt really have an MTM shirt. And likely a lot of people who think they have an MTM shirt really have something that might be called bespoke. My shirts are from various companies including Mazzarelli and 100hands, and are essentially MTM, but I have requested so many special details and adjustments to the fit outside of their normal ordering formulas it's more bespoke than MTM really. 100hands offers a bespoke line where they measure you in person and do the fine adjustments to the model. You can also do this with your tailor and communicate the adjustments through MTM ordering, so it really is not clear what is bespoke and what is not. I think bespoke shirt should be better defined. Defining it the same way as jacketting diminishes the word to obscurity since very few get their shirt made by their tailor. And for a reason. Factories specialised in shirts do a better job at them. I think the definition for a bespoke shirt should be dimensions and details beyond premade choices and unlimited options for fabrics.

[@902d]

Or if you are very oddly shaped.

[@ToddFener]

Thanks for the insight.

[@danilonunez3831]

I have a short neck can anyone recommend a MTM company where they have an option for collars?

[@gplusgplus2286]

Due to shrinking experiences with mtm shirts in the past (shirt was ok when trying it but shrunk after first wash), I had asked the tailor why they don't wash the fabric before putting it together and he said it wasn't possible. Thoughts?

[@danielduggan5405]

There are some MTM companies that specifically say they cut the shirts slightly larger in order to allow for shrinkage. Maybe check one of them out.

[@gplusgplus2286]

@@danielduggan5405 yes, everyone says that, even my tailor. But some fabrics shrink more than others.

[@akimbofurry2179]

MTM, so that is what I got done. HUh. Also a factory. Nah, shop at Etsy, my dude. Even found a place, leather Canada, 25 bucks for leather dress gloves, and they managed to use good leather, Think it was deerskin, Etsy is the bomb. Love these videos, they tell me so much.

[@jonasis22]

Grea video.very complete info

[@kenneth3369]

Have you considered reviewing Luxire? I've gotten a few pairs of high waisted pants and a shirt from them for pretty cheap, made in three days. I've never seen made to measure that fast before.

[@alicjaszewczyk7673]

Frock coat video, please.

[@HarryPotter-kd3bh]

My shirt always gets ripped off while fighting voldemort... any tips?

[@percaustrawich4417]

Be ashamed you're a tv programmed puppet

[@HarryPotter-kd3bh]

@@percaustrawich4417 how dare you. my feels are hurt. I demand apology

[@HarryPotter-kd3bh]

@@henryhen76543 fitted armor or...?

[@HarryPotter-kd3bh]

@@henryhen76543 is there a spell for that? snape says flex tape is contraband. I'd have to sneak it up my @$$ if I want to get past Filch and Ms. Norris

[@themoderndandy713]

Buy Fort Belvedere products. Even the dark arts can't affect the durability and timelessness of them. Also, try stiff-starching your shirts. Out in England (where you live) there's a store that still stiff-starches shirts in a Victorian-era style. I'd like to watch He-Who-Must-Not-Be-Named beat that kind of magic.

[@delmoralgarcia]

What's with the playback speed of the video? I checked my settings and it is set at normal speed, still Sven speaks certain phrases like at 100 mph. Is this on purpose? Very good video on shirts though.

[@Exjapter]

Your b-roll footage of Asia was clearly Japan, and I don't think that's the country where cheap shirts are being made. :p

[@outahfoolsway7604]

Love it

[@michaelbell3952]

I love itailor

[@shahinurpervin5388]

Love from Bangladesh.. 🇧🇩🇧🇩🇧🇩

[@MichaelOssen]

First

[@oscararcemx]

is it me or your ears getting bigger ?

[@gentlemansgazette]

It all depends on the hair cut. If it is shorter, the ears seem bigger...

[@jamesdillman6811]

Is there anything that you won’t pair that cowshit-green knit tie with? It keeps showing up in combinations that hurt the eyeballs. A red striped shirt now? Bwa ha ha ha ha. For a channel that puts out as much great style information as this one does, there are an over abundance of potential clown costumes.

[@svenvanvulpen1579]

Well that is not very constructive feedback. For somebody who watches a channel that is all abput being a gentleman, you don't really act like it. If you really don't like it, say it in a constructive way.

[@jamesdillman6811]

@@svenvanvulpen1579 You’re right. That was rude and you are right to call me on it. My taste isn’t everyone’s taste. Some of the color combinations have me rolling my eyes. It was more personal than I intended it to be. Raphael is a good guy.

[@svenvanvulpen1579]

@@jamesdillman6811 well thank you. Raphael is indeed a good guy. And everybody disagrees sometimes. But that makes it fun

[@gentlemansgazette]

Each to his own 😜