Why I now exclusively use Hex-Plus L-Keys: A short demonstration

Since this was asked about in the last KC Tool Unboxing episode, I figured I would do a little experiment on the difference between a standard L-Key and the Wera Hex-Plus L-Keys.
Some Affiliate Links to Wera Hex Plus Products:
DISCLAIMER: I receive a small commission for purchases made through these links. Buying tools through these links is a great way to support the channel!
Wera 073593 Long-Arm Color-Coded Set - Metric (KC Tool): bit.ly/2lYOh85
Wera 073593 Long-Arm Color-Coded Set - Metric (Amazon): amzn.to/2eFFE07
Wera 022639 Long-Arm Color-Coded Set - SAE (KC Tool): bit.ly/2lUnU2G
Wera 022639 Long-Arm Color-Coded Set - SAE (Amazon): amzn.to/2gUGDKl
Wera 022720 Stainless Steel Set - Metric (KC Tool): bit.ly/2qxV7Dg
Wera 022720 Stainless Steel Set - Metric (Amazon): amzn.to/2umwqv2
Wera 022721 Stainless Steel Set - SAE (KC Tool): bit.ly/2trY3js
Wera 022721 Stainless Steel Set - SAE (Amazon): amzn.to/2unpmOR
Wera 022086 Long-Arm Standard Set - Metric (KC Tool): bit.ly/2trke9l
Wera 022086 Long-Arm Standard Set - Metric (Amazon): amzn.to/2gUcX0d
Wera 022171 Long-Arm Standard Set - SAE (KC Tool): bit.ly/2uNyCfE
Wera 022171 Long-Arm Standard Set - SAE (Amazon): amzn.to/2uoRJdD
Wera 021737 Short-Arm Set - Metric (KC Tool): bit.ly/2lYIf7p
Wera 021737 Short-Arm Set - Metric (Amazon): amzn.to/2eFFrdp

[@TheSteelArmadillo]

I like how the solution to the problem of a hex key is to give it more of a torx profile. Haha I've been telling people for years.

[@kenbrake2828]

Ive actually used torx bits to remove stripped out allan key heads. Just get a tight fit and tap it in with a hammer and turn!

[@clintwalker5804]

I also use torx on allen screws for over ten years now specially the smaller they are. ie scope mounts.

[@theodorejames4387]

I've actually been using torx as my number 1 go to instead of hex

[@DownHillgamer]

Yes. Torx is my favorite fastener, FAR superior to hex and torx plus is even better. But most people use the wrong torx on the wrong fasteners either the wrong size or not torx plus. Torx fits TIGHT very little slop, if it's a little sloppy on a t20 it's probably a t25 and it will be snug

[@integritymotorcar2334]

Fantastic video, as I have come to expect from you. I only dread the day that you decide to not do these demonstrations anymore. I think many here feel the same. Thanks for your hard work and effort.

[@Havardr_Ash_Kenaz]

Thanks for this I just bought a set of wera hex plus for my bicycles.

[@jacobphillipps2825]

Wera is king! I’m a bicycle me mechanic and bikes use predominately hex heads for most fasteners. I need to make sure I’m not stripping/wearing bolt heads, & am remove/install worn bolts. Wera’s hex plus keys are the only tools I like to use/ recommend. They also make torx plus bits/ L keys along with hex sockets and Phillips head tools all with the same idea in mind. Super nice screwdriver handle torx and hex tools as well. definitely highly recommend!

[@aHowToYouTo]

As someone who does maintenance on CNC machines that are almost exclusively made with hex socket bolts these new hex plus look like a great innovation in hex key desighn. Thanks for the great informative video.

[@Jeff-oe1yx]

Great vid! I'll be investing in some of the Wera hex plus "L" keys soon. Sidenote: I believe what you had there was a meter and not a gauge. I was a nuke electrician in the US Navy and we were trained that, basically, a meter takes an electrical input and a gauge takes a mechanical input to create the movement.

[@GermanToolReviews]

Thanks! I'm not sure if it is a meter or gauge, I always thought they were the same thing. It does take an electrical input 4 to 20 milliamps, but is loop powered meaning it doesn't require an additional power source.

[@SeriousSchitt]

Project Farm did a video on different types of L hex keys, including the Wera Hex Plus, and the Wiha came out on top. But this is a great video also, thanks for sharing. I buy Wera.

[@DoRC]

Nice to see someone do a real test on something. Im so tired so happy happy Joy joy sponsored reviews.

[@GermanToolReviews]

Yeah you will never see a sponsored review on this channel as I buy everything I review myself. This is also why I tend not to review very expensive tools because I'm cheap!

[@randomuser778]

Not sure you should be pretending objectivity on this subject, since you clearly made obvious cuts and edits in the vid to conceal the times your super wrench "ratcheted" inside the screw head. (see 13:05 for example) When you examine the cuts and edits, this smells more like a sales pitch than an honest review.

[@GermanToolReviews]

The cuts were to prevent everyone from falling asleep as I have a tendency to use long pauses in my sentences. I am designing an experiment that should address any concerns that will be repeatable by anyone who wants to try and won't require any expensive test equipment, just a torque wrench.

[@Nevir202]

Do R/C! Sounds like you'd enjoy AvE's BOLTR videos

[@DoRC]

Nevir202 I was of aves original 1000 subs:)

[@JimLBon]

On top of making some of the best tools money can buy, Wera was the only company to respond to my customer service inquiry for some swag. They sent me some stickers for my shop. Channellock, Knipex, Milwaukee, Gearwrench and a slew of others didn’t respond at all. This is even more interesting because I’ve spent less on tools from Wera than anyone else I emailed. I don’t hold it against the other manufacturers at all, but Wera is just that cool. So, if you want the best customer service with the best tools Wera is a great choice.

[@mikester1290]

Interesting video, as a mechanic I rarely use these right angle shape hex tools, nearly always in bit form, I.e. attach to a ratchet or gun, the beauty of them of course is use in conjunction with a hammer to make bigger sizes/other shape tools fit into badly damaged/rusted bolt heads.

[@GermanToolReviews]

Thanks for the insight. Yeah I rarely use Inhex bits (sockets with hex profiles), but I hear that mechanics use them all the time. Wera does make those with this profile as well as 1/4" drive hex bits. I don't have any Wera inhex bits so I can't speak to their quality because I believe all Wera sockets are made in Taiwan. It is about the only thing that they don't make in the Czech Republic.

[@sachellebabbar9005]

I have Wera keys and bits/bitsockets, but I prefer to NOT use them, except in specialized cases. I almost exclusively use my Bondhus. The problem with Wera is with regular usage, the corners will wear out and I've not seen the greatest tolerances right out of the box and the amount of torque one can apply, all things being equal, is lower than a well-manufactured hex tool. I've been using Bondhus for 15 years now, still have my first set and it's my primary. The Wera eventually wear and slip, plus are much more sensitive to the profiling of the hex in the bolt. They work well on fasteners that they fit very tightly into and the walls of the hex are rounded. They are very good, but best kept for special cases rather than everyday usage. For the latter, it's Bondhus. I've had good experiences with Wera Torx, BUT not their ball ends. The ball ends are miserable and easily damaged with one usage at extremely low torques. For hex, I also recommend Koken from Japan and Gedore sockets. I also have Wiha with the magic ring. I don't like them and the difference in quality is very noticeable compared to Bondhus. They are likewise only occasional tools and with regular usage I can totally see them not lasting long. N00bs count Bondhus out because they price lower than competitors, not realizing that this company has done little branching out and has focused on making nothing short of THE BEST hex tools available without the hype. This is backed up by numerous technical reviews.

[@LawAbidingCitizen117]

This is interesting because what you just said contradicts what is shown in this video, and also that L-key comparison test done by Project Farm. In that test, Todd showed that the Wera Hex Plus actually has the least wear compared to other brands such as Wiha and Bondhus.

[@nchia]

I don't even know how this ended up on my feed, but I watched it till the end. Fascinating.

[@GermanToolReviews]

KZbin must have changed their algorithm, I don't normally get this many views lol

[@delipete123]

Popped up under 'lifestyle' just now on my feed.. I watch a lot of machine tool videos. I'm not surprised the threads started to strip. Fine thread + aluminum 😔

[@nathanshaffer3749]

The aluminum threads weren't stripping. The bolt threads were stretching. Basically, the amount of tension on the bolt was causing it to go past its plastic deformation point.

[@HepauDK]

Nathan Shaffer I still think that the tread on a steel bolt is quite a lot stronger than that of a piece of aluminium. I have seen a lot of bolts pulled out with the aluminium thread embedded into them bacause of over thightening.

[@nathanshaffer3749]

It is kind of a misunderstanding with words. It's not the thread surface. The threads on the steel and aluminum are intact. To make it more clear, the bolt is stretching and getting longer. Yes aluminum isn't as strong as steel, but the aluminum is being compressed and the steel is being pulled. The compression strength of aluminum is much much higher than the tensile strength of steel.

[@MrKoguchipower]

Thank you for your experiment. I try to use torx heads when available but these L keys are interesting. May need to grab a set for the tool bag. Not sure if you have one already but a table vice would save your hand a fair bit, cheers.

[@GermanToolReviews]

yeah I need a vise...someday I will get one.

[@jetjazz05]

When I first started working on Saabs I found the use of torx screws an interesting choice, but as time goes on it's interesting to me how they've proven themselves in the field. You can remove them time and time again, they're MUCH harder to ruin than almost any other bit it seems. I'm not a professional mechanic, but I've worked on probably 7 Saabs, and many other vehicle brands: the bits that can get used without distorting best is the torx. The only thing that kills them is RUST. Those 6 little little nubs rust off and you're screwed, in those rust prone situations a hex bolt head (or) a phillips slot seems to hold up the longest. I've actually had to drill a flat slot in rusted out torx bits before...

[@GermanToolReviews]

Cool story. I've never though about rust affecting the splines on a torx screw.

[@AwakenedR6]

this is very true, half the time even with tool truck brands such as Snap-On/Matco/Mac/Cornwell you end up breaking the bit, especially on car brake rotor screws lol. the only time ive had torx strip out was when i used the wrong torx (t27 in a t30)

[@dropzonewarzone5251]

A solid education without boring bread and circuses with some of the others. Subscribed.

[@chaos.corner]

Might be interesting to have something with a slight twist to the tool. You'd need two versions, one for tightening, one for loosening.It would "bite" at the bottom of the hole where there is less chance of damage.

[@timoklap]

i ordered the hex plus and torq from wera, can be more confident now on tightening or loosing, with others had always the fear of stripping, specialy on modern mountainbike frames with aluminium polts.

[@deemstyle]

I've never heard of Hex-Plus and found the video very informative. Thanks German Tool Reviews for the video!

[@Arkasai]

Recently got the large metric set, they're awesome and worth every penny. It's apparent on first use these are among the best you can get.

[@bethnwalt]

Wera and KC Tools two of my favorite things!

[@RambozoClown]

Thanks for bringing attention to these. It looks like the inverse of Snap-On's flank drive for sockets, where the force is not just applied to the points. I will have to give them a try for sure. See how they fare against my favorite Bondhus.

[@GermanToolReviews]

Yeah it definitely looks like it was at least inspired by the flank drive design. Thanks for watching!

[@jimmyguy428]

Rambozo Clown, I thought the same thing.

[@bulbchangingmonkey]

Rambozo Clown. D.K. FAN?

[@PatriotPaulUSA]

There are others that have had that for years as well as snap on fwiw . Wright tool and Grey Pneumatic impact sockets are just 2 examples I personally have sold at my store for years.

[@PatriotPaulUSA]

True

[@grahamhall2662]

Excellent demonstration Thank you. Have just bought set of Wera hex plus.

[@williamgeorgefraser]

People seem to think that stainless steel is highly resistant. Screws and bolts, however, have an extremely low resistance to torque and heads will easily break off. I'm a marine engineer and if you want to be able to unscrew stainless screws and bolts, use grease when you fit them.

[@jetjazz05]

What a gorgeous gauge... in all honesty stuff like that is just as beautiful to me as a Rembrandt...

[@EcoMouseChannel]

Am buying the whole set, and throwing out all my cheapy harbor freight hex keys. I have a couple of Bondhus hex tools, that I replace one at a time when an other one goes missing. But this seems to the perfect solution for cleaning out the junk and only getting a quality tool. I'll probably make a drawer just for them, including Kaizan foam cutouts.

[@GermanToolReviews]

Cool. At some point I'm going to make foam cutouts for my trolley. Garnett pointed me to toolbed.com that has a huge library for existing tool cutouts. I designed a drawer for just Hex keys that I plan to order at some point.

[@terrygoyan]

I just ordered a set of the metric long arm wrenches. Thanks for turning me on to these tools. To bad the metric wrenches don't come in a pouch.....

[@GermanToolReviews]

You can buy the pouches empty, which is what I did for my metric set. Much easier to use with the pouch. I suppose the holder could have some advantages such as space and security.

[@rich1051414]

The hex plus will chowder out the corners and not the sides, which is ideal as it will take a very long time before that strips out the biting. Regardless, I don't think aluminum is strong enough to properly test the hex plus.

[@TheMatadrum]

I'd like to see you redo the test with a longer normal hex. Your shakey hands would have definitely made a difference in the condition of the bolt head.

[@BMack37]

I've both discovered the benefit of hex plus...and also been surprised by Wiha hex bits, which don't seem as great as other Wiha items. Sadly Wera doesn't have a great selection of SAE hex, and I cannot seem to find any security SAE hex. So so my Wera security kraftform kit is supplemented with Wiha SAE security bits. Also, with bits you'll want to be organized because from the side at a glance, they look a lot like torx.

[@GermanToolReviews]

Yeah I wish Wera did have more SAE bits. I do like Wiha L-keys as well as they are very snug with tight tolerances. That is why I used before I started using the Wera ones. You can also get Wiha L-Keys with Nickel-plating which I don't think is available from Wera at this time. Nickel-plating is supposed to be better for long term corrosion resistance.

[@IamDoogy]

Very interesting review. Who knew that a very small alteration in the geometry of a hex fastener could improve performance that much? I wonder if you could test the performance of the tool steel used in Wiha versus Wera and maybe Klein, etc.? And could you also give us some information about the metallurgy/composition of their tool steel? I saw a KZbin video that claims that Wiha uses better tool steel than Wera but it wasn't scientific like yours is.

[@oratiolibre1673]

Conventional flats exert large wedge forces inside the socket which widens the space between flats and causes the metal to flow. The Wera design concentrates the load near the start of the flat so it can indent. Once indented, a small step is created to exert force against, and so exert torque with less spreading force. Snap-on made its name with a similar concept, by removing the start of the flat inside a socket, so the edge of the flat could get a bite into the nut.

[@Jeff-rk8hq]

Are you referring to the flank drive plus design?

[@lloydprunier4415]

I would have liked to try these about 15 years ago. I worked on Woodward hydraulic governors and they use a lot of hex head recessed in servo assemblies. If the rusted ones couldn't be coaxed out with EZ outs or forcing a metric wrench in then I had to do a lot of drilling. Those little bolts in the middle are the worst things ever designed. The socket for the wrench is not deep enough. Nice demonstration!

[@sptrudell9]

what yielded when pressure dropped off you put a grade 8 bolt in tapped aluminum the alluminun shud have yilded

[@GermanToolReviews]

Yes you are correct, it would be the internal ALU threads that would be yielding.

[@TT-dz8zf]

I’m surprised & shocked by the number of dumb negative comments in here. It almost makes me feel the competitors are sending their employees here to trash talk ridiculously. Thanks German Tools Review for a great video. I now own both metric and SAE multicolor hex plus sets AND their torx set as well.

[@19ghost73]

Great demo with DIY measuring equipment and a visible result! Thanks for sharing. ATB, Gereon

[@moeszyslack4676]

This came up after I watched an AvE video and I'm glad it did. I just subscribed. Also I saw you mentioned you'll get a bench vise one day..Even a cheap POS from Harbor Freight beats holding things with your hand. PS, you just cost me some money as I put an order in for some of these.

[@GermanToolReviews]

Ha, yeah tell me about it, I seem to spend too much on tools and I've getting quite a backlog now so I better slow down. Yeah true a cheap vise would be better than nothing, but I'm not sure I have a good bench to mount it on at the moment. I've been waiting for a good deal on a Heuer vise.

[@mihamaker]

Nice one with the hex plus... I always undo the stripped hex with torx, some tap tap with the hammer and torx make there own grooves in stripped head. You can also heat it up with fine tip blow torch and rapidly cool, most of them stress out the jammed treads, and harden the head a bit so can help on that marginal situations... (sure after you make new growes with torx, not before :) )

[@joostdehost9582]

I actually need to study, so I watched this instead and bought them. Looks like a great product!! I was in need of a pair of allen keys anyway....

[@Atsaki13]

Since I bought my first set of Wera screwdrivers.. If ever I need a tool, if Wera make it, that's the brand I buy. Same for Knipex when it comes to cutters, pliers or shears.

[@htc007898]

I didn't know about Knipex till I found a brand new pair of Knipex pliers lying on the road, and they turned out to be the best damned pliers I've ever used. Next time I need drivers I'll certainly give Wera a try.

[@Atsaki13]

htc007898 You don't happen to live in West Sussex do you? I dropped my first pair of side cutters doing a job at my parents house. Saw a cyclist stop and pick them up on the CCTV!! Haha.

[@htc007898]

Ah, that's a terrible shame to have lost them. I live in South Australia, and the pair I found are pliers rather than side cutters, so I reckon they're not your pair. But I didn't know just how good they were when I found them.

[@jayyy2458]

What about against bits for e.g. in my 1/4" ratchet vs this? I have a full set of drivers of hex, why would I use an L key instead?

[@davldhilton987]

Had a set for 5 Years+ Best set of allen keys going

[@brianmoore1164]

An excellent test and review. Thank you.

[@GermanToolReviews]

Thanks I appreciate you taking the time to say that since it appears most comments seem to be negative lol.

[@nicholasrenn9341]

I know you basically just do German tools but I would really like to see you do a review on the PB Swiss PB 3212 LH-10 and hear your opinion. from the research I’ve done it seems people love them and if there is anyone who goes into details or finds flaws you would be the guy

[@paolofuso6239]

hello, I’m Paolo, technical demonstrator for Wera italia. I really liked your video and I find it very useful. I wish I could demonstrate that to my clients. Could you provide me with the link of the measuring instruments to demonstrate the effectiveness of the HEX PLUS system? I would be very grateful.

[@ChimeraActual]

Sorry, I seem to have missed the part where you explained the difference between the two types of Allen keys, and why you think the Wera's performed better.

[@GermanToolReviews]

Check the part at 11:12 where I go into the details of the difference geometry that a hex-plus has versus a standard hex key. It is not actually a hex shape but some very complex geometric form that is engineered to maximum force transmission. It is all detailed in the patent "Force transmission structure especially for a screwing wrench with multiple corners": encrypted.google.com/patents/US6263771

[@tamazerd]

Nice demonstration, to bad the 10-32 screws you used with the load cells weren't identical. I have no doubts you did a non-biased test, but it would have been nice if the screws were exactly the same. Both the pattern on the outside of the head and the length of threading is different, so its not really hard to spot that they are not the same type of screw.

[@GermanToolReviews]

I will check that. They came from the same bag but maybe someone mixed some brands together. They are Mil-spec screws which means that they can be from different manufactures but still have the same part number. Each manufacturer usually adds some marking to indicate who made it.

[@GermanToolReviews]

Yes, you were correct I went back and looked at those screws and one has slightly longer threads. I wondered about this so I went to the actual Mil-Spec and there is only a minimum thread length specified for that part number, which is 0.875in. Therefore, both are compliant. It should have made no difference because the height of the load cell is 0.63in, would would mean that we only need 0.87 thread length so 50 thousands of clearance at the minimum spec. You have a good eye as I did not notice this and should have paid more attention as I would have made sure to get two that are exactly identical. Goes back to that saying "close enough for government work" as the military would consider those two screws to be the same.

[@lozdubya]

Got two sets, stainless and multicoloured. Only ballpoint keys I haven't broken yet!

[@Fuddleton]

I don't get it, most applications you aren't supposed to reuse screws, and the torque required for stripping far exceeds design torque. If you're in the realm of requiring massive preloads, then you move to a more appropriate screw drive

[@GermanToolReviews]

Yeah, this system is best used for taking off / removing screws. I would agree that it doesn't make much sense to put more torque on the screw when installing it, but I was using the bolt tension to try and see if I could get more torque out of one design over the other. I may do another test that is purely removing bolts. Something like using a torque wrench and thread locker to put a bunch of screws at the same torque and see if one style works better over the other. I suspect that there would be no difference with a correctly torqued bolt, but there may be a difference with a corroded or over-torqued bolt. I haven't been able to quantify definitively what that difference would be yet.

[@Keex11]

What came immediately to mind is low-quality screws I get in furniture, something will always get buggered. I may buy a set just for that actually.

[@bluelightningfilms57]

Keex11 I’m on a robotics team and we don’t really have a choice other than reusing screws if we can. They usually strip on their heads before they do anything else, so this is helpful

[@rpsmith]

The proper way to zero a meter is to turn the adjustment screw clockwise until the needle goes from below zero to read on zero then turn it a tiny bit counterclockwise to put the adjustment cam in the center of the adjustment fork. I'm sure those aren't the correct names for those parts but that's the best I can come up with.

[@Tylerfrompdx]

I wish Wera made those color coded hex plus wrenches in imperial, but they don't. The stainless ones he had on his bench were the imperial set.

[@iamBenRod]

We have used the Wera wrenches at work for years now to remove stripped socket head cap screws. My only complaint with the Wera is that the ball end on the small sizes M3 and under is terrible. Even the standard Allen brand has a superior ball end. You also have to be careful as manufacturing personnel are prone to over tightening with the Wera wrenches because they grip so well. Wera also makes hex bits with this same technology that fit into standard torque drivers where tightening torque is important. Most hex wrenches are cheaply made so the fit is not great which results in stripped sockets. If you want to test how a great standard hex wrench set without the Wera technology is supposed to work like you should review the PB Swiss Tool rainbow Allen wrench set. The PB is my favorite Allen wrench set, I prefer it over the Wera. The Wera will wear out in production use, while I have been using the same PB set for the last 10 years, no joke. The PB is way more expensive, but that's the only negative. Whenever I have run into a sloppy fit it has alway been due to poor screw quality and that's where the Wera shines as it grabs on the flat of the socket. Keep both around if possible.

[@jdeveonwhite7572]

you hit the jackpot finding that gage. i work in a nuclear power plant and most of our gages are that type, those things are almost a thousand bucks sometimes depending on the accuracy

[@GermanToolReviews]

I'm sure it was at least $1K new. I have another one but says "Line Speed" instead of "Feet per minute." One of these days we are going to mine our landfills for these type of things.

[@billmalec]

Stripping out is the threads. Rounding off is the head. How did we ever get to calling rounding off... stripping out? I've seen video after video saying this in the past year or so.

[@GermanToolReviews]

I've always called it stripping for some reason, might be a regional thing sort of like pop/soda/coke. Rounding might be a better term though.

[@PatriotPaulUSA]

Very nice, It would be helpful if you just mounted the plate in a vise , for example and then you could do the torquing down on camera as others mentioned. But nice info and great test. Thanks ! I hope Wiha, Bondhus and others pick up on this and pay the patent to make these.

[@MikesToolShed]

I got really excited when you said you said "test to failure" . awesome video, I've been wanting those L keys and it's gonna be the next thing I get from KC

[@nameofaxtion]

They are nice, but I didn't get them cause the hex is only on the tip, then it gets wider on the shaft, unlike a traditional L-key. It looks like that could cause problems in polaris blocks, and other lugs.

[@MikesToolShed]

Name Of Action can't say I've ever seen polaris blocks that this would be an issue (i usually only work on larger ones) they should work for 90% of the things I do though

[@samthenerf]

They are also available in a more conventional style. www.amazon.com/dp/B003KN3HOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_K8nDzb4KWY1HG

[@GermanToolReviews]

Yeah I could see the color-coded sleeve getting in the way in certain situations but I haven't yet run into that problem. They of course have styles without the coating. BTW, Wera calls this their "Take it Easy" system. Looks like someone at Wera is an Eagles fan: www.wera.de/takeiteasy.html?L=1

[@xenonram]

Mike's Tool Shed Yea, the last key he used was a Wera hex plus w/o the sleeve; but it did have a round shank. They do have standard, all hex stock, keys that are hex plus, though.

[@joshuabrixey4679]

That was a pretty good informative run down for the hex-plus set but it would be nice if there was more comparison with competing brands. I know Eight from Japan is supposed to have a better ball-joint design and then there is Wiha with their line-up. Would you consider doing a 1 to 1 comparison between those? The reason that I'm mentioning it is that the information really isn't available else-where. There's also Stanley (made in China but cheap and generally considered reliable), Bondhus (made in USA) and Tekton (also made in China but has a good reputation). These would be a great choice to contrast against German and Japanese brands, thanks!

[@GermanToolReviews]

The Wiha one I used for the first part actually performed well above what I thought it would. It looks like they have pretty high tolerances on their L-Keys.

[@joshuabrixey4679]

Missed that part, good point. Still curious how they would match up against Eight, PB Swiss and Bondhus but that's probably overkill.

[@dazaspc]

It looks like an inverse flange drive excellent for cheesy soft cap screws. I would be a little concerned using these in grub screws as it is loading in the thinnest section. Once they split you have to drill them out. Excellent, accurate and simple test. Please keep the videos coming. . On a barely related note, I used to have a task that required the removal of a M20 X 35 grub screws that had been thread locked in. To get to the screws long series Allen keys were required a 10 mm to be exact. I tried Unbraco, Eight, Bondhus, Sidchrome, Gedore and from what I was told was a PBSwiss. The depth and surrounding elements meant that the use of heat was difficult and if done to much would scrap the entire part. The Sidchrome and Eight would shear off or nearly shear off well before the screws would release(Flush with the top of the screw). No good for that job. Unbraco would usually break the screw loose but could only be relied upon to do it once or twice before shearing off. The key would usually have 1 3/4 twist in it when completed (Like this but on the long side goo.gl/JhyZkX) The PBSwiss and the Gedore Sheared off randomly(Only tried a couple of each) before twisting. The only ones that you could rely on were Bondhus. When new you would put in about half a twist then they would last until they were bent. I only ever broke one Bondhus key and it shattered with a shower of sparks. I think that particular one was incorrectly hardened. Over the years I probably did that job 60 times? Please bear in mind that nearly one meter of leverage was being used and the keys would have 1~2 turns of rotation on them before the screws would give way. The screws had the hex go all the way through so they never split. In reflection I'm glad that I don't do that job anymore.

[@joshuabrixey4679]

Thanks for the information, it's nice to have extra information on a different fail points and the various brands.

[@chriscas-ToolAficionado]

GTR, A Japanese company called Vessel has been using a similar concept for at least 10 years.　They call theirs "Ultra Hex" profile, which is registered and patented.

[@tonybilco1317]

Great video thankyou you learnt me something useful. .going to buy these hex plus keys as I'm always stripping allen key heads...great channel

[@scottdonbrosky5968]

The tool is only as good as the fastener. Bolts and nuts are not accurate or precision items. The thread stretch is from the weaker link, the aluminum.

[@seanbailey317]

Using a a T-tool v a allen wrench is silly, a T-tool is for low Torque settings, which is why there super useful on bikes.

[@jeepmanxj]

I use that exact set of wera hex keys at work. Still strip fasteners out every day. The only advantage I've seen is the tool itself almost never fails.

[@GermanToolReviews]

Are you using the ball end when you strip the fasteners? I don't know if I mentioned that the ball end on these is just like the ball end on any other key. It would only be the short end with the different profile. I do need to figure out how much force it takes to strip/round the hex. I'm thinking it would be around 50% above recommended torque but need to do more testing.

[@jeepmanxj]

German Tool Reviews nope. However it is on removal of old bolts that have been in an operating tool. When assembling the tooling the fasteners have a specified torque requirements so it's almost never an issue of over tightening. When there is no torque spec we usually use the gut n tight method of tightening it down. Go till it stops, then a little heave ho for that little extra.

[@jackwhite3820]

I have never in my live stripped the hex socket of an allen screw. I've shorn off the entire head, the bolt or stripped the thread, bur never the hex socket. Maybe it has to do with your moon units, because I'm solely working with metric screws and maybe they have slightly different proportions.

[@naezro]

I'm a firm believer of the Hex Plus.

[@brianlink5379]

In your second test with the #10-32, those bolts do not appear to be the same. The groves on the outside are different and the interior of the hex slots are shaped differently, particularly at the bottom of the slot.

[@GermanToolReviews]

Yeah that can be the problem with mil-spec hardware. They are from different manufacturers but are still the same part number because they meet spec and were mixed together in the same bag. The only difference I can see if the thread length and the pattern on the head. Thread length is only specified as a minimum value (no maximum) so they are both technically within spec. It shouldn't have made a difference but I should have paid more attention.

[@chris_ackroyd]

Would it not be a good idea to lube the mating surfaces to eliminate or reduce sticktion (stick-slip)?

[@derek876544]

surely unfair test when you backed out fastener with hex plus it was putting pressure on opposite face of fastener?

[@Petesworkshop2225]

These are the best tools.

[@moonb2914]

Thanks much for the test. Very informative as all your demonstration and comparison videos usually do.

[@FMeng]

Nearly round my shock absorber hex screws, just order hex plus, hope that save that part

[@smilingcopycat]

WERA FOR LIFE!!!!!

[@RennieAsh]

Good camera, nice tools, distorted audio! Need to do some tests so that your mic doesn't overload when you talk. Maybe it's too close, or perhaps need an external mic. You can always boost the audio in the video editor using a soft limit, but it's hard to fix already clipped audio :) Edit: I wonder what that patent actually covers, because torx bits are like this, but with a much steeper curve between points. Sometimes I even used torx bits because they seemed to fit better ;)

[@GermanToolReviews]

Yeah audio did get messed up. Gain was way too high for some reason. Got a new mic since then so hopefully future videos wont have the same issue.

[@MrCJHamill]

Excellent review! Thanks very much. Hex Plus Vs Torx. Which would be the ultimate do you think? Let's assume you have the choice of fastener type. And for hand screwed Vs drill / impact drill.

[@jeffgemv]

Just a note, none of the sets have a 9/64 size key, This is used for number 8 screws, a common size. Its available as an individual item on AMAZON. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GDISFW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@CatNolara]

So normal L-keys work fine if you don't overtighten your skrews (which you shouldn't do either way)?

[@GermanToolReviews]

Yes, this is correct. It is more of an issue of loosening an over-tightened or rusted screw. Most people don't use a torque wrench when installing socket cap screws though so they are often over-tightened.

[@sno_crash]

Excellent video. Only comment is that the contact surfaces should have been lubricated - not that it would've made much difference to this test

[@GermanToolReviews]

Yeah probably would have been a good idea.

[@chaddles623]

I just found out Vessel has Ultra Hex keys which I've noticed is kinda like Hex Plus by Wera.

[@chriscas-ToolAficionado]

Yup, been around for at least 10 years.

[@chaddles623]

ChrisCas are you still doing your Japan tools? Or any new videos coming up? I've watch your videos also

[@chriscas-ToolAficionado]

Roof RT In about a month from now I'll be getting some new tools from Japan so I'll likely make some videos then.

[@Bigtroosh]

Colleague of me had a set of the wera things.. after he broke 4 of the Balls on the long end he sent it back.. you can’t even use the long side after that, because after the ball ist just a round

[@walterdoerler6791]

If he really broke the ball of an Allenkey he should consider to change his Profession

[@pauls5745]

very interesting. thanks for sharing! I came to this from watching classic car restoration videos :-)

[@dondayton7678]

Comparing Apples and Oranges: My work in Facilities Maintenance Management, HVAC Technician and Stationary Engineer as well as DIY Automotive maintenance and repair has seen various tool or fastener failures. By far, most of these failures have been attributed to the use of inferior tools. When I switched to MAC Tools hex key sets the failures declined dramatically. The difference in quality between Craftsman (junk), Eclind (better), Bondhause (better yet) and MAC (best) is striking. You compared a Husky with the professional stuff. What kind of results would you expect!?

[@GermanToolReviews]

Yeah true, I guess I was thinking all standard keys would perform about the same. I could do a test with a high quality L-Key but I would need another setup.

[@MrBodeci]

amazing how you now only use hexplus but have a nice set of wrenches for them and dollar bin hex

[@domints]

So what is the actual difference between ordinary hex and these hex-plus? They look quite the same and breaking strength might be just the matter of material, not the socket itself.

[@GermanToolReviews]

The profile of the tool is slightly different with the hex plus. I did a follow-up video to better quantify the differences and I found that for large screws it really didn't matter since the screw ill break before you cam out the socket, but for smaller screws it can give you more torque.

[@l30n7788]

Very informative video. I've been doing a lot of research into the different types of Allen keys out there I'm used to using bondhus but I found after only two years of use the square end rounded off especially sizes 4mm and below as well as chowdering up the heads on socket caps which is an absolute pain for removing. I was set on getting the PB Swiss ones but this has swung it for me I think. What's the tool life of these if used everyday compared to PB Swiss hex keys as I hear they are indestructible more or less..

[@GermanToolReviews]

Can't really speak to the tool life as I've never needed to replace any of them, but I also don't use them everyday, maybe a couple days a week. Even the ones that I really stressed by putting a cheater bar on them are still OK. I'm sure the PB swiss ones would hold up just the same as these, but I don't currently have any PB swiss L-keys at the moment.

[@jetjazz05]

Damn you, I need these like I need a hole in the head lol. Anyways I clicked on the affiliate link and bought the long arm standard metric, this will be nice for all the drain plugs and pulleys I take off cars when working on them. Usually I'm not the one who put it on and they're on there TIGHT... thanks for saving me the potential headache of stripped hex heads.

[@HepauDK]

Hmmm... Maybe it's time to replace my trusty 24 year old Wera hex keys for those. I recognise the screwdrivers in the background, I have those myself. :) Wera ftw! Edit: nope, just found out they are in fact hex plus (950 PKL/9 SM). Those babies are virtually indestructible. :)

[@GermanToolReviews]

Yeah I think Wera has been making them for a while now. I think the patent will expire in 2018 or 2019.

[@ekkehardehrenstein180]

You don't see any damage on the hex plus? Really?

[@whitetiger8652]

Thanks for the vid. What kind of video camera are you using? Great clear picture.

[@GermanToolReviews]

Panasonic G85 with stock lens. Takes a while to figure out the settings, but luckily there are lots of youtube videos for that.

[@Bubblegoose]

I was ready to go out and replace all of mine current Wera's with these. However I just looked and they actually are hex plus hahah

[@Djokkinss]

torx is still the way to go

[@InterestCasual2000]

How do they compare to Torx?

[@GermanToolReviews]

You would definitely get more torque out of a Torx/Pentalobe screw. However, Torx machine screws are still quite a bit more expensive than standard socket cap and are often not available in the lengths that you need them in, which is why we still haven't seen a universal move to Torx. Wood screws on the other hand are a different story, with almost all exterior wood screws moving to Torx heads.

[@InterestCasual2000]

German Tool Reviews Thanks for the reply! Yes I see a lot of wood screws are available now, they work great. I work on industrial machines made in either Denmark or France and they use Torx for all smaller fixings now and have done for years, shame more industries don't follow. Too much penny pinching and building to lowest cost unfortunately. Great vids, thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍

[@HepauDK]

German Tool Reviews I remember changing some control arms on my '86 Ford Escort. Those (or maybe it was the anti-roll bar) were held in place with T40 screws.

[@garnetcampbell4389]

I find with Torx screws if your bit is not perfectly inserted into the head it will strip. I do not find that issue with Torx Plus fasteners. While Torx screws have a pointy star burst hole Torx Plus has squared corners so it looks like a gear. postimg.org/image/enzbadetr/

[@animefreak5757]

I don't think i've ever stripped a hex unless i was using the wrong size, or applying a strong side load. Also, that husky seemed to fit quite loosely.

[@GermanToolReviews]

Yeah the reason why I started out with small loads is to prove that applying a proper torque should not be a problem with either type of hex key. The main advantage of the hex-plus system would be loosening an overtorqued socket cap screw or one that is badly rusted in place. I was going well past the recommended torque for these size bolts.

[@astrazenica7783]

Pretty genius experiment rig

[@spicky2966]

Are all the hex key made of stainless? steel with those prices i have to buy individual as the need arises....

[@SeriousSchitt]

False economy. Buy the set, as the need arises, and be done with it!

[@mtmchenry]

Thanks for the test. I've been looking at the hex-plus and now I'll be ordering some.

[@linkdude64]

What I can't stand about these plus sets is the plastic sleeve. If I have an L key on-hand and need to tighten a recessed bolt inaccessible to me with the short leg, I can put a 6" knipex pliers wrench (smooth parallel jaw motion ala "crescent wrench") and tighten using the ball-end. Not optimal due to the nature of the ballends but it's a fantastic option to have. The plastic sleeves on these also slip off with use and I've had to remove them to get an adequate grip on the tool for performing the work, then re-sleeve them. Just pointless. Quick identification of the size of wrench based on color is moot when you know that you're looking at either a metric or standard set and can tell the size by looking at the business end of the wrench itself.

[@AR1G3]

Or just replace every internal hex bolt with a torx or internal splined bolt. Because a Wera L-key will not fit into the bit-to-socket adaptor for my torque wrench.

[@GermanToolReviews]

I have found that the Torx screws are often many times more expensive than the equivalent hex socket cap. The screw length selection is also limited for Torx machine screws.

[@baukevandijk61]

Awesome! Nice way of testing this. Seems very legit!

[@irongreek7722]

I'll look into the Hex Plus system thanks for that! A good comparison I was gonna do myself is test cheap Allen sockets vs say high end ( snap on ect ) sockets and see how much of a tolerance difference there is. Is you have cheap and expensive Allen sockets around I'd love to see a video like that as I've only got cheaper Allen sockets.

[@GermanToolReviews]

Yeah that would be a good comparison between expensive and cheap L-keys. I think you are going to find that they have the same tolerance since this is specified by the DIN 911 standard. I bet the biggest differences would be in the quality of the metal and the finish.

[@irongreek7722]

German Tool Reviews yeah I had a feeling the tolerance would be about the same :/ was just curious though. Thank you for your help!

[@jetjazz05]

It's a tale as old as time: ignoring the hex key's ACTUALY size on a rusty fastener, getting one that just barely is too large, then hammering it in. If you're lucky you can back it out, if not... well. We all know what then.

[@earl60446]

Why do you say 2000 lbs of torque when the meter indicated 1000 lbs?

[@GermanToolReviews]

The meter only goes 0-5 while the sensor is 0 to 10,000 lbs. Therefore multiply the meter value by 2,000. 20 milliamps = 10,000lb = 5 on the meter.

[@HAZYFALKIRK]

I have this set of wera hex keys they are good, their screwdrivers are also very good;)

[@utweak]

Is hexplus a different hex tool or do you need both a hexplus fastener AND hexplus tool?

[@GermanToolReviews]

No, it is just a trade name for their hex key profiles. They will work on any hex socket cap screw. I've never heard of a hex plus fastener, not sure if you meant Torx plus.

[@martinmosley2116]

I wonder if they come in a socket