Get Proper Flash Exposures in Bright Sunlight (NOT Histogram!)

WHAT YOU SEE IN THE VIEWFINDER MAY NOT BE ACCURATE EXPOSURE! But it's not the camera's fault. It's your EYES! Your eyes are constantly adjusting in bright sunlight, so when you look into something dark like a viewfinder, what you see will seem darker than it is... which could lead to a whole camera full of over exposed images when you are done. How can you prevent this? Here are some ideas and tips.

[@ImageMaven]

I'm a fan of the highlight blinkies - showing overexposure. On the Lumix you can show it before and after you take the photo. But ya, "Get it right in the camera!" That's my best advice too. But, really I just want your shirt. ;) Thank you for the smiles today.

[@johnmarten4184]

Can Markus get back the gx85 he gave away?

[@primefotoNL]

To tell if the picture is properly exposed, as you said, is the purpose of a incident light meter. You are correct that not all light meters can meter HSS like the 585 Sekonic, but you do not need that. There is a workaround. If you use a simple incident meter and meter the ambient light you can set that and let the TTL set trigger and flashes do their thing with HSS. You will be in the ballpark. That is easy to do and gives you more control over the balance between ambient and flash light. You then can also stop the ambient light down by 1 or 2 stops and let the flashes be set to 0 stops HSS. That way the subject will be correctly lit and the background can be a little darker thus creating a difference between subject and background. That difference makes the subject pop out more. Sounds complex but is very easy to do. The cheapest meter will be sufficient for that. And as long as the light does not change there is no need to re-meter. ;-) It also does not have to be expensive or large. I use a Gossen Digisix ambient light meter. It fits my hand and any pocket i have. Really small and light weight.

[@leehepburnphotography2745]

Thanks Markus for your wealth of knowledge and fun vids. Just a heads up the Panasonic cameras, holding a G9 as I type this, does exactly what you need - it can blink over blown out segments of the image and/or zebra stripes. Just put the constant preview on for 1sec after a shot and your problem is solved in both flash and non-flash images. Enjoy your vacay!

[@Finite-Tuning]

Yep, I totally get where you're coming from. When you first began, I was thinking about just exposing with a white card, but a grey card with a white boarder is even better! That's a really good idea. Cheers 🍻

[@WaynJul]

There is a lot more to photography than I realized. I am learning a lot from your videos.

[@MF.Productions]

Well explained Markus. Always been an issue when doing hss…. this becomes especially difficult at golden hr where the exposure changes. I usually adjust with an assistant before the Talent arrives or during wardrobe change to be ready thus using up less time/patience on the Model.

[@helgividar]

That was a hell of a rant. I take my pictures on an East-German camera from 1976 these days and I don’t complain. It does not even have a battery, which is an advantage.

[@chrishollingsworth7110]

Thanks again, exposure is complicated and I think most pro's don't want to admit that it's not easy to get it right. Histogram's sort of help and would probably help more if the far right and left edges of the histogram were zoomed in. A hair thin line on the far right is hard to see and can be an extremely over-exposed pic. Even without a flash, trying to nail the exposure for a bird in flight is super hard. Guessing what the flash will do is also hard. Anyhow, thx for talking about the struggles with exposure. Your honest and that's what makes your video's so interesting.

[@simonpayne7994]

Markus really does have a point here. There is not any in-camera method of accurately estimating the future exposure outcome of a flash shot. All one can do is take a test shot and evaluate the result. Of course, on site, out in the sun, half-blinded, you cannot really evaluate anything, And definately not by just peering at it in the view-finder. However, this is Markus' normal situation working his standard photo-shoot set-up. I think the solution he has devised based on the camera's oven-exposure blink and a "white card" is excellent. His comment on histograms beining all over the place is spot on. The only time a histogram is really "in the middle" is when you do a close-up of your gray-card.

[@badboy111055]

I have a large pop open reflector that is white on one side grey on other. I use white to set custom white balance and flash exposure. I fill the frame with the target which is why I prefer a 24” size. My personal preference is for white to just barely blink, then back it off slightly so histogram shows just short of right edge. Then I will adjust flash power up or down based on skin color. Dark skin people need a touch more and light skin people touch less. I will use a light meter for setting multiple lights.

[@MarcusPocus]

i love your grey/white method!!!!!

[@suhlabs]

Hot dam! I didn't know the blanking meaning until I saw it here! Thanks, Mark!

[@ralphkwappenberg7025]

Very usefull video, thanks Markus...again

[@smdvisionphotography]

I personally use my Atomos (If I'm doing video too) and Color Checker card. I think you're right, complaining to these camera companies to have exposure indicators after using flash would be KING.

[@marmaladesunrise]

Data's yawning , tired. Funny, Cara knew EXACTLY what you were going to say at the end. Good point, Markus. Who wants to tweak 200 pictures, one by one?

[@coconuthair]

love your video learned so much. my question, I was in a situation where my subjects were directly facing the sun and with hard shadows from a tree. that was the venue and could not change. what would you do?

[@MikeT-yy3]

Hi Marcus, have you tried using a small Kodak grey card glued to a larger, it's easier to carry and quicker to use.white card to give you a wider white border to more accurately see the white blinking instead of the folding round grey target

[@gregoryeditor6500]

One more like from me 382, stay happy an healthy Markus!

[@Peter2022]

You are great 😄 thank You.

[@omegaman1409]

I had grey cards for the last 15 years only used it a handful of times and those have been in mix lighting. That’s something I couldn’t fix in post. It does have its use. But like many things its an added step.

[@dct124]

I like this method for flash. I've never used a flash meter. Never seen anyone use that DNR sheet.

[@loihpatli]

Thanks for the vid Marcus!

[@Hutch400]

Bit fired up today!

[@OrtwinSchneider]

I also use TTL for flash control outdoors. I set the camera with the exposure adjustment to -0.7 f-stops and the flash normally also to -0.3 to 0.7 f-stops. The result is a blisd that I like 90% of the time. Unfortunately, apart from the ninja, there isn't really anything suitable for reviewing the overexposure in direct sunlight.

[@rogerdad5845]

Love the Ptthht at 7:26. That was great!

[@carlosandreviana9448]

I use ND filters to avoid hss. I expose for the background first and then add the flash and check the histogram and blinkies. Or I just use a meter. OH. And nikon cameras show the histogram for the area of the photo you zoom

[@johnsaucerhunter]

Great tip. LOL on the closer (in Stereo no less), "hope that helps".

[@oo0RECON0oo]

Aha!!! That’s what happened to me! Now I know! Thank you!

[@jansima4538]

I was seen your video again. And undestand what you thinging. Coud you try datacolor spydercube. Its nice practical small cube with black houle + grey part + white part and small reflective globe. And the best thing is that is possible to catch to small tripod or some stick... What do you thinking?

[@tw9535]

You can 1,000% just use the histogram. Take the picture and then zoom in on the person's face. The histogram dynamically changes to represent whatever portion of the picture is currently zoomed in on. It is DYNAMIC. It is absolutely accurate and takes _maybe_ 3 seconds to do. This is how I have done it a thousand times when doing portraits using flash. It is fast and accurate. There is no reason to complicate things so much. (Although I do love both gray cards and light meters, so those are great, too )

[@MarkusPix]

What camera do you have?

[@tw9535]

@@MarkusPix Nikon D750 and Nikon D500 The dynamic histogram is the mainstay of how I check various portions of the image to verify exposure. Especially with manual power flashes, I always use manual power only. I always use the histogram because I can't trust my own eyes to judge exposure looking at the back of the camera LCD in outdoor brightness for exactly all the reasons you already stated. That is hard to do. By using the dynamic histogram, which is a digital readout, I can just trust that instrument reading and not have to rely on my eyes adjusting to changing brightness.

[@MarkusPix]

That explains it. Sony doesn't have that. I do wish they'd go all the way and have zebra stripes on existing images. Argh.

[@tw9535]

@@MarkusPix Wow, I had absolutely no idea that wasn't just a basic standard on _all_ cameras. (I have only ever held a Sony in my hands one time-- and that was only for about 10 seconds.) I rely on the dynamic histogram so much that I honestly do not know what my strategy would even be if I didn't have that basic information available. I guess I would probably just end up filling the frame with a shot of a gray card- exactly the same as you are doing. That seems like the best alternative. I had no idea. What the hell is Sony thinking leaving that basic information out- that no one is ever going to use a manual power flash?? (Or want exposure information on different parts of the image?)

[@dirtysouthtiger]

The R5 has live histograms 🤘🏻

[@FloridaTwoWheelAdventures]

I’m not well versed in flash photography. I’m still learning all of this. I’m guessing spot metering the face doesn’t either help or even work when using a flash? I will contact Canon but they won’t let 3rd party RF lenses come to market! Enjoy your vacation!

[@oo0RECON0oo]

What if you use eye autofocus to get your exposure from there. Also if you calibrate a light meter to your camera, then meter a shot then calibrate your camera to the light meter reading. It should be a perfect shot everytime. Once you calibrate the camera to the meter then I would adjust the view finder brightness to match reality. Also then adjust your picture control to your liking

[@alial-hassan1261]

thanks for the info

[@serenityx8927]

🇹🇹🇩🇰🎼🇹🇹🇩🇰 Markus and Cara. I am here to watch and listen, to give my support and love😍🤩😍🤩. I am not following you cause I have no understanding about all that stuff🤣 You guys look great, and the beauty of the epic background up in the mountain. Thank you Markus🙏

[@whongedhan7]

If your problem is that your eye can't adjust fast enough then you can copy how the pirates solved this issue: use an eye patch... some say the eye patch was not because they have damaged their eyes, but rather to condition the eye to quickly adapt to the dark when they go under the deck. Don't know how accurate this info is, but the theory stands.

[@tpe4ever]

It takes a lot of digging in Sony's cryptic menus, but yes, it's possible to see clipping indication in playback on at least the a9ii that I use. It won't show areas that with low exposure like you can get when tethered, but clipping can be viewed. Capture one also issued a recent update with tethering support for ipad, so if you want to really have a feature rich location setup, an ipad mini might be a good addition.

[@tpe4ever]

ipad tethering supports both wired and wireless modes by the way.

[@alanplatt888]

It’s a complex topic 😊 I guess thank you

[@nicksavage4763]

Hard to follow with That shirt that Hypnotizes 😵‍💫 Yea, We got it.

[@pt7024]

Dig the glasses and the one shoulder top...I am just looking at Cara's fashion🙂

[@Marshcreekmini]

Bonus of modern Micro Four Thirds cameras from Panny and Oly- Zebras! (over exposure blinkies) , AAAAAAAAAAAAND focus peaking! Most of the time I have these turned off, but they come in super handy, I always use peaking for manual focus. Some people say they're too distracting, but I trust that these miracle imaging computers will do a good job when I use all their built in features to help me not miss!

[@MikeT-yy3]

Hi Marcus, have you tried using a Calibrite Colour Checker instead of your grey card, it will do the same plus give you an image you can use to correct the colours of all your shots. Let me know what you think of this idea please.

[@oo0RECON0oo]

Or set your background exposure first then external light meter your subject

[@rogerbotting3459]

I love Cara's reactions

[@PP-fn1od]

She is so fun to watch - a doll

[@JosesGarage101]

I know with my Nikon d800, when anything is overexposed the zebra flashes, whith flash or without it after the shot is taken. The zebra kicks in when the highlights lacks of details. That maby is not what you are looking for?

[@jansima4538]

Good day Markus, maybe tray expozimetr ;) Modern exposure meter alow to metering shadow and bright parts. And from it are you able to make photo calibrate to your dynamic range :) It will be quicker maybe ... But 700 dolars I think...and work with Hss too ;)

[@mytv.theark]

Please wht is the best camera for begihhers in photography

[@photo2000]

If im outdoors on a sunny day shoot, I always take my black velvet sheet.... so I can duck my head under it, block most of ambient light, and have a good look at rear screen to check test shot. takes a few seconds to make sure shot is dialed in, then can shoot away 👍👍

[@MarkusPix]

A black hood is good for ambient photography, but not the way I work. I'm not looking through the camera all the time, I'm constantly adjusting lights, changing lenses etc

[@AeronDC]

this is also my problem when shooting outdoor, sometimes my eyes tells me that my flash power is right but when i go to my computer is either under or over expose.

[@christianklein5774]

What you mean is gama conture control on fuel digital sensor without mirorlight , direct on the sensor , might not complet unipotant ther are no mirror ,,, might you can redude gama when set a bit higher later on the computer , no idea i that is given with a low gama , dificult , ..

[@rdcoff]

Hi Markus, It seems that the brightness values in stills are conditioned by the whole process (exposure and jpeg creation, the development side). With my Nikons, I can examine in-camera processed stills for RGB channel clipping on separate channels if needed, but, of course, this is on the jpeg preview, not before the shot is taken. In video mode the Z6 will show zebras, but as an aside, none are lower in value, like down around most skin tones; but at least they are there in video mode. Only video mode! Ok. A camera engineer might tell us why still exposure tools differ from the video ones. If the gamma to be baked into the specified jpeg was smartly used to show blinkies off the sensor before the actual exposure, that would be cool. I guess that's the beef. I would not trust the Ninja recorder to show the correct levels because it's calibrated for video exposure levels like rec.709, etc. Use the grey card and check for clipping (blinkies) after the flash shot, in several or individual channels. Histograms could help at this point as well if super picky. Steve Perry's KZbin channel has a nice talk about this titled: "Unlock the Power of Blinkies to Improve Your Photography". But, it's about looking at the shots made in camera, not before the sauce is made. Thanks for the great no non-sense tips and gear reviews. -Rob

[@eppbob]

While not a "still camera", my Blackmagic 6K pro video camera (will shoot stills) will display zebras and any of its other exposure indicators after exposing. I mention this only because it demonstrates that viewing zebras after exposure is possible.

[@oo0RECON0oo]

But that would be a great idea Marcus

[@IvanToman]

Nikon has overexposure blinking on taken images. I don't know about other brands.

[@dwight7651]

it’s okay Cara, you deserve a sestina 😊

[@nmonye01]

I'm squinting while I'm watching this. I'm picturing the sun in my eyes

[@sardanapalos]

marcus buy a Panasonic camera, this is built in in all S series, its full frame and AF for photos is great :) also size of the S5 is really small , :)

[@waynosfotos]

Canon have this, after the photo, blown out parts of the photo flash.so you know to reduce the exposure.

[@johng5819]

Maybe I'm not understanding it, but my Canon SL2 shows the "blinkies" with or without using flash.

[@gamebuster800]

Can't you look at the histogram and look where the grey card is on the horizontal axis of the histogram? I seem to recall _someone_ told me to use a grey card to expose. 3:04 the grey card peak is right in the middle so it is properly exposed, right?

[@bitbox13]

Bro, theres a blow mind, Thats so true. even lf l ove lightmeter, its a haze, Markus, como to record to Cozumel, Mexico,its wonderful.

[@ferreirap55]

Look at your metering and you can tell if it is over or under exposed in the viewfinder and then you perss +_ button and rotate the exp wheel till it is in the center or slightly under exposed.

[@MarkusPix]

Thats for BEFORE you flash

[@michaelbailey4164]

@@MarkusPix Could you watch the meter as you test fire the flash?

[@PinnaclePete]

I can use the so-called "blinkies" or flashing over and under exposure indicators in my Olympus which has been available at least the last 10 (maybe 20) years. While I know I can use them AFTER the shot is taken, I believe I can turn them on BEFORE I press the shutter button. I would find that too annoying with the histogram, levels, and a couple dozen other indicators already showing in the screen. Yeah 2 or 3 button pushes and I can remove all of them and then bring them back if I want, but that slows down the shooting. I'll try your grey card method and compare the two. Thanks for the idea!

[@fredwinslow744]

Your underground bunker is unreal!!! . It TOTALLY LOOKS LIKE YOU AND CARA ARE IN BORA BORA. !!! Freakin amazing !! You are literally neo 😊😊

[@kevinp6823]

He use to work for CNN -- green screen expert 😂

[@petrenicolau6197]

Hi there, why not use the histogram though? if you are viewing the pic (on camera display) while in 4 histogram mode you can zoom in for any part of the image and those 4 histograms will show the histogram for that specific part of the image (e.g...zoom to see the face of the model, if histogram is in "correct zone" is all good, if not adjust flash accordingly)

[@paristo]

Two things that manufacturers need to add. 1) A real exposure metering based raw data (not to JPEG that is from live-view or preview) 2) have a built-in "zone system" where you can choose how many stops and what part of the dynamic range scale you want to be measuring.

[@arthurb1400]

Great tips Markus ! Which brand of the grey card are you using ?

[@MarkusPix]

Manfrotto is the most consistent

[@arthurb1400]

@@MarkusPix Thank you

[@fredwinslow744]

Have you shared where you got the Villa or what part of island. My wife and I wish to spend time there. It looks great and an outdoor paradise even if we only use our iPhones for pics. Yes we watch the videos for the tenth iteration of our lives when we photography moves up to space 1,2,3 of activities. Thx😊

[@MarkusPix]

Four Seasons Bora Bora, although there are other resorts there with the same view

[@MarkusPix]

spot metering is for ambient scene lighting before a shot is taken, not for foreground flash after it is taken.

[@oo0RECON0oo]

Nikon has post shot blinkies on z6

[@marktollefson3311]

How effective is the use of Shot Result Preview for flash photography when using the viewfinder?

[@MarkusPix]

That can maybe show what ambient will look like but not flash obviously

[@MichaelRoachWV]

I set ambient to proper exposure, then usually drop a stop, add flash, check and see if I've got blinking on the face or horrible lighting ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[@artistandcamera3245]

I use false color on my monitor, which lets me see exactly what the exposure is

[@ROBOTRIX_eu]

Cara is funny!! ..i learned that just bringing a printed paper, that a model can bring in her "backpocket", is so "eco-space", that i will print some and cut them even smaller.. i never thought of that..

[@Norbeez]

Is it possible to have the camera 1 foot away from the models face and expose for the model at that distance. The. Just keep those settings as you pull out?

[@MarkusPix]

Its possible yes, not always

[@gogoasa333]

If you use spot metering, wouldn't that help with the histogram?

[@MarkusPix]

spot metering isn't for flash

[@everythingbenny]

Hi Markus, what atomos monitor model are you using?

[@MarkusPix]

Ninja

[@everythingbenny]

@@MarkusPix Thank you!

[@richardnewland2613]

Shooting in the bright sun, can make it hard to get the exposure to look the way you want, I usually use " Spot metering and meter on the face, To look through the view finder you can wear a Black Cape to shield your eyes and cover the view finder with it..One more thought it to wear DARK sun glasses. Bottom line you can't photograph what your eyes can't see. One more thing I often do is use " a minus 3 or 7 Exposure compensation. You can always brighten it up in post. But no way to fix overexposed shots.

[@MarkusPix]

Spot metering is for ambient light, not flash. I don't need a black hood because the eyecup totally covers my eye, but I'm not looking through the camera all the time, I'm adjusting lights, changing lenses etc

[@dct124]

I look at the histogram and avoid looking at the peaks and valleys. I look at the very baseline, that's 1px in height ________ as long as that line is not touching the far right wall (going up) so to speak, nothing will be overexposed. You make a very very good point, they absolutely should allow zebras after the image in review, b/c specular highlights are tricky. I get it, there's no way of know where her face is on the histogram vs her shoulder or pants. /\_______ underexposed _____/\_/| overexposed ___/\__|__ properly exposed /\_______| under and overexposed

[@phototristan]

Hi Markus, can you do a video on fps framerates? I think a lot of people don't know why or when to use 24fps, 30fps, 60fps, etc. And also talk about why you like 60fps.

[@MarkusPix]

I like 60 because it looks 3D. Others are brainwashed to use 24 because that's what old school film cameras in Hollywood used and people think using 24 makes their stuff look cinematic 😆😆😆hahaha Its a LOT more than that!

[@phototristan]

@@MarkusPix Yeah, I actually don't like 24fps for YT videos. It look juttery etc. But the broadcast standard is 30fps so it's sorta confusing what to use and when.

[@MarkusPix]

Just do whatever makes you happy

[@007ashwath]

Hope this helped 🥰😁

[@MyRadiantMorning]

You are the best on KZbin, but use a damn flasmeter. I use the sekonic for godox

[@MarkusPix]

If canon people don't have to, then sony people shouldn't have to

[@drewcohen7815]

Canon 70d gives you zebra strips after you take the picture

[@john2000l]

Please let me know if I am missing the idea. I Know you returned your A7IV and stayed with the A7III. That is cool, you buy for what you want and need. But the A7IV has built in Zebra Stripes and also Zebra Levels. This lets you check for overexposure before you shoot the image. I think you also showed in the Display after the image has been taken, where there is excessive overexposure points in the image. If I mis-understood your context on the problem, I apologize and will let you and Cara continue your amazing vacation.

[@MarkusPix]

the zebra stripes on these cameras only work BEFORE you take the picture. It cannot read the flash or a picture that has been taken

[@john2000l]

@@MarkusPix Gotcha' I see what you were trying to convey. Since I use the Ninja V+ most of the time, I figured I had missed something.

[@arunsikkimphotography6321]

Good morning sri ho

[@Hofsaedter]

Hold this!! (P L E A S E)

[@friendfortheartists]

Doesn't resolve high key or low key pictures. Your phone also can be a light meter. Then bracket off of the meters reading. There are some decent apps out there. Also wifi is an option for downloading the pictures. Also understanding the Dynamic Range of each camera is needed. Isn't it going to have both your technical tools and your eyes for determining the best exposure. Also what are you exposing for magazine, newspaper, internet, book, TV, or monitor? Dynamic range is different for all isn't it? Understanding the strengths and weaknesses of your camera is important. Expose for the background and flash exposure for the model. Perhaps HSS time.

[@Leo-jd2ny]

What if you shoot with TTL ?

[@MarkusPix]

TTL is kinda difficult when using three or four different flashes from different angles for different effects, (plus ambient keeps changing with sun and clouds, reflections etc, which is why I use manual for full control of all elements. Each light is a custom brush stroke.

[@Leo-jd2ny]

@@MarkusPix ok, I understand

[@michaelbailey4164]

Can't you just use a light meter

[@ADNZ5442]

A7IV has zebra, and blinki for exposure.

[@MarkusPix]

After the picture is taken?

[@ADNZ5442]

@@MarkusPix ah only blinkis. Can use zebra when taking the photo however. But defiantly would be great to have it with photos taken.

[@MarkusPix]

You cannot use zebras before taking the picture when using flash, which is the point of this video.

[@tylou4479]

Just get a Lumix it has zebras and waveform

[@tempchannel3885]

"What" Lol

[@waynosfotos]

I think this was a rant, and Cara was bored! Hee hee

[@lindstrem]

Pretty sure the Canon R's all do it. I will reconfirm...

[@MarkusPix]

I wish Sony would catch up

[@oo0RECON0oo]

Trust an external light meter

[@MarkusPix]

It would have to be a HSS meter and like I said in the video, I don't want to have to do that just to look in the camera

[@LonStar3000]

My Panasonic G9 does exactly that! It blinks on over exposure! Use a cheaper camera...LOL!

[@FocalPoint-xh6bi]

I know you are, but what am I?

[@MarkusPix]

in high school?

[@kevinp6823]

That sun must be super bright as you guys look like you spent 20 hours in a tanning salon.

[@MarkusPix]

Yep. Tahiti can do that. Plus we live in Las Vegas.