Glyptal Testing for Automotive Use

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This is an un-sanctioned use of a reputable product that was formulated for use as an electrical insulating paint. It can be used as a gasket adhesive, thread sealer, and many other practical purposes... but what I'm doing here is not listed as one of them. People have used it for decades as a crankcase coating anyway. In this video I put my application procedures to the test. I also test for chemical reactions between Glyptal and most chemicals found in an engine bay, or used as oil or fuel additives, or used during service and assembly. I've done several videos about this process on different kinds of materials, addressed safety concerns, showed proper curing steps being taken, and why someone might ever grow the idea to even consider doing this. Hopefully this video answers any questions you might have about its chemical behaviors and wraps up the series. I do not recommend doing this procedure unless you have a known issue that this product addresses; one that's better than other available options, and that you fully understand the risks and personal responsibility. I like all the products in this video. I am not endorsing nor being endorsed by any of their manufacturers. I am not recommending that you use their products in any way demonstrated in this video. Lastly, if you are familiar with scientific testing procedures, you know that this video is testing the reactivity of this material with chemicals in their full-strength. Not with how they might react inside an engine's crankcase as blow-by gasses or diluted with oil in their proper or recommended concentrations.
Glyptal 1201 data sheet:
agaus.com.au/wp-content/upload...
MSDS Data...
Starting Fluid:
s7d9.scene7.com/is/content/Gen...
Brakleen:
docs.crcindustries.com/msds/50...
Carb Cleaner:
ilrc.ucf.edu/documents/ILRC%20...
2+2:
www.berkebileoil.com/uploads/1...
Heet MSDS:
www.servicechamp.com/images/2...
Foamy Engine Degreaser:
content.rpgov.net/dpw/right_to...
WD40 MSDS:
wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd482...
PB Blaster MSDS:
facilities.fit.edu/documents/f...
Aero-Kroil:
www.kanolabs.com/MSDS2015/AERO...
Lucas Oil Treatment:
lucasoil.com/pdf/SDS_Heavy_Du...
Marvel Mystery Oil:
www.audiosears.com/MSDS/FS0433...
STP Fuel Injector Cleaner:
www.stp.com/sites/default/file...
Antifreeze:
midsouthsales.com/wp-content/u...
Denatured Alcohol:
www.ucps.k12.nc.us/cms/lib/NC...
Mineral Spirits:
www.ucps.k12.nc.us/cms/lib/NC...
Power Steering Fluid:
www.cvpproducts.com/content/d...
Brake Fluid:
www.weindex.info/pdf/Brake/7.pdf
ZMax: (It's a $30 bottle of mineral oil)
www.zmax.com/documents/msds_10...
BG44k:
bgprod.ie/wp-content/uploads/2...

[@WilliamDye-willdye]

If anyone says that this video isn't "real" science, they're wrong. I'm working as a research engineer now, building scientific instruments for analyzing DNA, and Jafro's work here is top notch. Sure there's room for more rigor and more possible factors to check, but that's always the case, even in multi-billlion-dollar LIGO detectors. The theories might look nice and clean in a textbook, but in the trenches of real-world data collection, life looks a lot like this video. Even if you have no interest in combustion engines, I recommend watching this video if you want to see a good example of experimental methods.

[@iwtommo]

One could say something about the process though... painting thier gsx project block BEFORE experimenting to see if the paint was up to the task?! :P

[@Jafromobile]

That's called faith! :)

[@rxvexe]

He also identified the best paint removers if his results from the test were not acceptable for the application. So he could backtrack if needed.

[@Jafromobile]

Give me a rag, some gloves, and about 10 minutes with a can of 2+2...

[@rizdalegend]

paint will always be attacked by the solvent it was originally carried in, that's why you need a thermosetting coating, i.e. epoxy

[@nicolasf6094]

Nothing better than a friday evening just coming home from work and a new video from Jafro

[@johncavanagh3900]

I'd been missing something in my life. Today I realized that thing was an overdue Jafro cleaning montage.

[@TangoOne]

My jaw literally dropped when you took the grinder to that valve cover.

[@aserta]

A sacrifice in the name of testing. Now we all know what, and what not, to do with an interesting product BASED on an application over a known quantity. Cast aluminum (which is common these days).

[@TangoOne]

So much time and effort to better educate us all. That is why we love Jafro

[@swat1229]

Evil GST I was right there with you

[@MyCatInABox]

Yep, me three: I was really racking my brain trying to figure out what in the sam hell was happening when you started hacking up that valve cover (...or, what in sam hell you where thinking! Lol)

[@bmxrider76]

could have used a honda civic valve cover ..... :( RIP

[@TomsTurboGarage]

Love the incredible analysis Jafro, very enlightening! I've seen old engine builders coat v8 lifter valleys and such with glyptal, but with such less regard for surface prep and chemical relations. Thank you for the excellent information as always!

[@Jafromobile]

Thanks man! What I never found was any info about what it reacts with and how fast? I confess that I go through a body-prep level of detail because I'm making a KZbin video and exercising an abundance of caution. You know exactly what I'm talking about. :P Many people don't go through anywhere near this level of prep, and some don't even bake it... but what fun is that? Those people don't get to play with a shop dog. Maybe they have their own shop dog? I just know if I go through a body-prep level of detail that my paint will stick, and so will everyone else's who does it this way. Any paint would stick to nearly anything with this prep method. But one of the other reasons I do this... there are some horror stories floating around in forums about coating failures. Sadly they're not from the people who originally coated the engines, and they purchased the car that way. These posters don't even know what they're looking at, so much of that data is unclear. They can't identify the coating by anything other than "it's red". Could be Glyptal? Could be Rustoleum? Could be Krylon? Could be Crayola? I'm just trying to be responsible and fill in the gaps. Looking forward to what you do with a V10. ;)

[@jimzivny1554]

Tom's Turbo Garage I've torn down some race engines built "professionally" and found the oil pick up screen plugged with glyptol. If its not as clean as new metal it won't last. Its great stuff if used right, like he says in the video its a lot of time and expense.

[@TrojanHorse1959]

Great video Jafromobile! I've used Glyptal inside engines for many years. We used it inside the large diesel engines in the power generating plant I used to work in. We never baked it on, we couldn't in that application, but it held up just fine anyway. Once I had experience with using Glyptal at work we also used it in my cousin's drag race car engines to seal the block and improve oil drain back. It wasn't baked on then either, just air dried, but it held up just great and never once did any of it flake or chip off. All in all, I think it's great stuff!

[@timothylloyd4625]

I really appreciate the amount of detail you went into with the number of test products to see what glyptal likes and dislikes. Thank you for your all the effort you put into this video and previous videos! Also the fun bits like the oil race brightened my day :)

[@tommyboy054]

Dude, well done. I'm an engineer who's learning how wrenches work by building a Ramcharger. I started with you're blueprinting series and 3 hours later... Like William Dye stated, you approach your engine building with a strong scientific method, thank for that. POKE IT WITH A STICK!

[@hyattbusbey3563]

New roadkill, new speed academy and now I see there's a new Jaffro! What a day, what a glorious day

[@muffinman127]

Just found this channel, I love how in depth you are. Can't wait to see more content

[@user-zu6jg9fd8d]

Finally new video! Glad to see you around jafro!

[@T07N]

It's been a year since I watched a Jafro video. I'm going to spend this week to watch a year's worth of videos now.

[@Bunnyonabender]

"Land urchin" LMAO

[@lawnside82]

Giant Leopard Caterpillar

[@Shane-Singleton]

I laughed too :) It's been a long time since I've seen one of those in person. Cool little beastie. Don't touch it with bare skin or you'll regret it.

[@xpoohx105]

This is me posting a rate comment subscribe post to increase this videos interactivity with youtube. It's meaningless so don't read it and ignore that I said anything. Just trying to support jafro.

[@fila1445]

xpoohx105 God dammit i read it all :( What now ?

[@xpoohx105]

continue to generate a large and noticeable comment string which will bring up the interactions on his video and increase his exposure?

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

continue to generate a large and noticeable comment string which will bring up the interactions on his video and increase his exposure

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

continue to generate a large and noticeable comment string which will bring up the interactions on his video and increase his exposure

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

continue to generate a large and noticeable comment string which will bring up the interactions on his video and increase his exposure

[@jonathankenna5996]

Wow thank you so much for putting all the time and effort into such thorough testing and sharing it with us jafro! Another excellent video!!

[@MegaScott]

Well...I was contemplating using Glyptal to coat the inside of my Small block Ford, but then since it will be run on E85, and your testing shows possible problems with Alcohol fuels, This has changed my mind. Thanks for the testing, Very informative!

[@ghostofthedeep]

I didn't know you were still making videos glad to see that you're back or at least back in my video feed got to catch up on past videos

[@ramziz8226]

A complete explanation about glyptal application on a 4G63 valve cover, very informative 👍.

[@travisatwood576]

oil drag racing had me cracking up bro ,keep up the great videos ! this answers alot of questions I had thanks .

[@josephsfields]

Your vid came up after Ratchets And Wrenches. Good content here from a new subscriber and '95 GSX owner.

[@BuildBoostDrive]

Going above and beyond but always very detailed and well thought out, I expect nothing less, when Im working on and recording my dsm's I still refer to your videos all the time. Your hands on and thats what I like out of autotubers. ill be watching those notifications for the next one. Watch ya later sir!

[@jimzivny1554]

Great video, thanks for taking the time to perform the tests and sharing. I'm sick of a video where a knucklehead waves a spray can in front of the camera screaming "this is the greatest stuff in the universe". You've done real testing and some of the results were surprising.

[@dashiznit89]

I love all your videos. You exude true care and hand and mind articulation of the highest level. Thank you for showing us something that nobody would benefit from if you hadent documented this. Thank you.

[@mikeydeshon5637]

Who honestly would thumbs down? Every single video I'm educated on something.

[@Jafromobile]

Meh. They help me anyway... As far as KZbin's concerned a vote either way is +1 If I made them feel strongly enough either way to make them interact with it, I did my duty.

[@KupakCorp]

Alright. Been there for a while now, watching videos from you in whatever order youtube recommends. The great outdoors qoute got me thinking about Clutch, your t-shirt got me subscribed.

[@383mazda]

FWIW, I powder coated an old Volvo 240 valve cover, to clean the original coating off I used plastic blasting media (looks like chopped up plastic Easter egg shells). For giggles I hit the inside (where there was 30+ years of oil and carbon build up) and the media took all the gunk right off to bare cast aluminum in a few short passes. I was amazed how fast it worked, on both removing the powder coating and carbon and leaving me with a super clean valve cover.

[@roba379]

Huge props on the Clutch shirt collection! Crucial velocity!

[@no1homehere1988]

Always enjoy the videos Jafro

[@Richiehd]

Thanks for video, I have been using Glyptal for years in my hotrod engines.

[@mountainelectronics1639]

Jafro, the type of Heet you used is mostly methanol. Iso-Heet, the type in the red bottle, is mostly isopropyl alcohol aka isopropanol. Thanks for all the great videos! Because of you and Tom (Tom's Turbo Garage) I dream of building an early 90's AWD DSM monster one day!

[@Jafromobile]

Oh dang. I was basing mine off the MSDS. I was always told it was pure methanol, so the MSDS actually threw me for a loop!

[@mountainelectronics1639]

Thanks for the reply! This is the MSDS for the product you used (99% Methanol): dogflying.com/iaf/MSDS/MSDS%20Heet%20Yellow%20Bottle.pdf Have a great weekend!

[@DatL24]

>new Jafromobile video PRAISE THE LORD THE HEAVENS HAVE OPENED

[@TheForcedinductn]

Woo! New Jafro video!

[@kennyjean392]

JAFRO'S BACK!!!!!!

[@1987Isuzupup]

Jefro I putt this vid b4 the new roadkill vide as always great vid man

[@tiberiusclaudiusnerogermanicis]

Love new jafro videos

[@ozzstars_cars]

Enjoyed the experiment that you did.

[@andyoverall1951]

Awesome work Jafro!

[@TurboJohn74]

Another quality educational and fascinating video!

[@creamshop]

this is a very good test, thanks for all the work to convince us this is the right product for our machine parts

[@austingibson6428]

Excellent work Jafro

[@nzpork1]

Wow this is a really valuable video. Thanks a bunch from New Zealand.

[@sinjint4247]

Did a quick googling on that caterpillar. It's called a leopard moth, they look much better when they turn into a moth. PS thanks for all the awesome videos!

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

*@**33:00* On COLD metal. Equally heat the parts, too. More accurate run= tip pieces back, puddle measured amount of oil. Tip pieces up, same time, on one table (or piece of plywood) for more equal run. Also- test conventional and synthetic, hot and cold, both piece and oils. Make HUGE multicolored spreadsheet graphs to wow and confuse the Plebs.

[@dlyle]

Thanks for the hard work jafro. Very informative!!!!!

[@amundsen575]

Wow, thanks for all your hard work showing this, my use is in machine tools such as a lathe. Just to seal the cast iron imperfections and use non detergent oil at room temp's. Proof that it will work fine for years to come.

[@Askor200]

Great video Jafro

[@3point8]

The fact that your voice sounds like Billy Bob Thornton (with my good head phones) makes your videos all that more enjoyable :)

[@Jafromobile]

Can you give me a reference? I have close to a hundred Billy Bob Thornton references to my voice now, but other than Pushing Tin and Slingblade, I can't seem to make that connection? Nobody seems to be saying as a dig, so maybe I don't mind sounding like someone named Billy Bob?... I just want to be able to say, "oh yeah, I guess I do!" :P

[@3point8]

Bad Santa is the only good one :) You just need a few more f-bombs in there to make it complete haha

[@Jafromobile]

Thank you, I'll check that one out! I wish I had his luck with Angelina Jolie back in the day...

[@fpvillegas9084]

This channel has everything about car mech/tech. Watch and learn. 👍👍👍👍👍

[@AGNdogg97]

Great video Jafromobile. I painted the insides of my Datsuns l28 engine with Glyptal a few months back so it's nice to see what cleaners and other products I can use. It would be interesting to see how other fuels/gases would react with glyptal like other people are saying. If you do a second run of tests, assuming you're able to find a way to get the products, you should include gas (leaded & unleaded), diesel (& diesel additives like cetane boost, biocide, etc.), ethanol fuels like e10 & e85, automatic and manual transmission fluid, differential fluid, diesel oil, nos(if that could even really be tested). Glad I watched this because I was considering meth injection. Kinda sucks to here I can't do that now, oh well. Thanks for the great videos, keep it up!

[@BoostedCajun]

That poor valve cover...I was like nah he’s not gonna cut it apart....NO!!!! Lol. Great video as usual. Can’t wait until the next one!!!! Great work Jafro!

[@Jafromobile]

I had 8 of them. Now there are only 7. 3 are installed in cars and there's only 4 spaces on the wall. People say they're hard to find, and I totally disagree. Once you have a breeding pair, they're just like rabbits. I had to make a sacrifice for science!

[@KEEPINITRIL]

I enjoyed watching you mess with the caterpillar, takes me back to being young

[@GrumpyFelo]

Love your videos man, learn so much from them, no joking

[@RedXcz]

Very well done analysis. The conclusion is very clear.

[@narcoti]

Jafromobile has been my inspiration to build my veloster. heh

[@dreadlysmellybum]

You are a great guy with a real respect for life. Amazing videos.

[@adamlentz7528]

Jafro now I know what you were talking about at shootout. I been a fan of this product since you turn me onto it years ago.

[@adamlentz7528]

I appreciate you doing this. Keep up the good work. I think you should get into the summit vans at some point.

[@originevo8]

Jafro i would love to see you build an evo! I’m in process of build mine and thanks to your videos.

[@DarkSwordsman]

Wait... is this a... NEW. JAFRO. VIDEO?! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

[@348loadedlever3]

Awesome video, you tube gods should reward your hard work

[@scottm7341]

I would only apply it to a block that had been baked and wheel-abraded, so all oil residue is cooked out, and the surface is roughed perfectly. The hot oil test really sold it for me. I'm going to use glyptol without reservation now, so thanks for the info! PS - Power steering fluid is a thin hydraulic fluid, which is really also conventional petroleum oil. Brake fluid is completely different, not petroleum oil at all. It can absorb water, while in ps fluid, water will remain separate. Why do you want brake fluid to absorb water in your brake system? Well, oil floats on water, and water sinks in oil. Where would water go if brakes used conventional oil? To the bottom, ie, to the wheel cylinders. And what happens to water in cold weather?

[@aleksandaraleksandrov8213]

Recently discovered this channel and I love it. One thing i find common between the videos is Jafro likes to clean stuff, may I suggest trying soda blaster for cleaning engine parts coaked in carbon. Works wonders and the soda itself dissolves in water so you dont have to worry about leaving media behind after cleaning.

[@TheTommer777]

Your videos are golden! THANK YOUU

[@davidparker9676]

I wonder what Sea Foam would do to the coating. Also Gunk Motor Flush? Excellent demonstration/testing!

[@haiceid]

thank you for all the work very cool

[@johnhonda93]

I came across your videos a while ago, and I have to tell you that I love your content. It's obvious that alot of thought and effort goes into it. Thank you for sharing it with us. I really like the idea of having an internal coating like that. But I can't help but think there has to be a better substance. Makes me wonder about something like powder coating

[@estobon]

Any updates on the glyptal in your engine? Its be interesting to check it out after some use.

[@jjay718]

Old video I know but do you know if you can thin glyptal with mineral spirits for spraying? I need to spray it in one area that will be hard to get with a brush.

[@johndoe-tf3zi]

Awesome video. Thank you!

[@dirtygarageguy]

Hello mate - great video. I'd say from the drag race that the Glyptal wins due to the fact that its a smoother surface. The ally has pore etc and the pores are filled as the oil runs down. You can see the drip size decrease. Cool stuff.

[@mowcee1]

Nice! Brilliant as always.

[@AZTrucker]

@jafromobile can you test diesel fuel and used diesel oil? Wonder if the diesel extreme heat cycles would have any effect.

[@hopsgarage5513]

Great work

[@guidorollard2944]

Nice video, good thoughts and interest in your hobby. Personally, i don't use this glyptal method. For all the prepwork and baking ect. time and expenses, i grind and polish engine internals to reduce oildrag. It does the job for the same amount of labour and time/money considered.

[@Jafromobile]

I did that on the Hyundai block, and I think it's the better route to take. It's actually a fraction of the time and effort to yield an improvement in oil drain-back.

[@HulloItzMe]

Live the videos like always Jafro, especially the longer ones! One thing I did notice though was that all of these started peeling outside the edges, probably due to the angle grinder you took to it, allowing it to get underneath the glyptol through the side, making it a relatively easy process of just lifting it. I mean, I enjoy it -as well as everyone else in the comments it seems- watching you clean and apply this stuff. Perhaps another video on a part that hasn't had a "wound" for the chemicals to get into and has been completely coated? Only reason I say that is due to the chances of me spilling 2+2 gum cutter on a part coated and cut apart is extremely low. Love the videos keep em up! And post more often!

[@Jafromobile]

I'm working on the frequency. It will come at a cost to the length, but the topics will become more focused. The concerns you have about the edges are the same ones I had when I was doing this. The grinder is the only random variable and many of the chemicals caused a failure starting on the edges. The way I see it, grinder or no grinder... if it's capable of starting on the edges and working its way in, than any abrasion on the surface is capable of becoming something that's stuck to the oil pickup screen.

[@jeffreyarmstrong6203]

Jafromobile And there’s always an edge somewhere. Either where the bearings ride, or near the sealing surface of a component. It’s a “worst case scenario” and a worthwhile test. If a chemical can get in/around the glyptol then it will do it here.

[@zero1796]

Great job of this video

[@ali01130]

just a great explanation thanks man

[@BlueRidgeBraaaps]

I hope one day I'm a Jafrobile running mechanical experiments in my garage.

[@215alessio]

jokes aside, your research has great value

[@ConTheDon187]

so clean, it's great

[@MyCatInABox]

It's a "Wooly Bear" caterpillar at 20:11... They're nice, sweet critters. I always try to avoid running them over when I see them crossing the highway although, if you drive past them & get your tires close enough to them, the huge rush of wind lifts them off the concrete and they roll along the ground like little tires (lol!)

[@dodgeme1986truck]

You could test the affects of incidental exposures such as blow by... by mixing those chemicals with oil and try the testing again see if it affects how the glyptal reacts to the chemicals

[@Jafromobile]

This idea crossed my mind, and it's what lead to me making the claim that "I have no means to test that". What burned my brain cells up is the variations of some of these chemicals' flash points, how they oxidize, and at what concentrations in parts per million would make it past the rings as blow-by. How much of that blow-by was and was not combusted with the fuel source? Temperature will play a big factor in the kinds of chemical and physical reactions that occur, and what compounds now remain once they're reduced? How different will the blow-by gasses be *in the engine I'm building,* versus a stock-spec stock-internal'd build? What concentration is achieved? ...and what are the oil change service intervals? The results would end up being subjective when it comes to the concentrations without multiple test engines with different ring gaps and compression ratios to create samples. Then I would need a mass spectroscope with a whole lot of beakers, vials, and vacuum pumps that I don't quite know how to put together and use just yet? Many KZbinrs and all of the science world probably wouldn't appreciate nuclear spectroscopy in my home garage the same way and you and I might? You have a great idea, and it's what sent me down this hole once before. But at some point I have to stop and remind myself that I need to finish building my engine. I wish there were ways to express how much goes into my voiceovers. Sometimes I'm extremely candid and humble, and just straight-out admit my flaws to save you time. ;)

[@TheLeo328]

Love your voiceovers, Jafro! You calm, objective and very considered narration is what makes me keep coming back! Love your work!

[@daviddroescher]

Jafromobile You break it down so a five year old could understand it without being demeaning you have a gift of speech well done.

[@PHUSII]

This was really fun to watch even tho i dont think ill ever use glyptal, but hey, you never know... :)

[@Brando9k]

great video. i would have also tested regular pump gas/e85 for blowby purposes

[@michaelovitch]

To be accurate for oil return speed measurment, oil must flow on an already present oil film, like in an engine,when running. The test you execute here, only represents what you have once in your engine,when you start it new. You could cover the parts with clean oil,then drop tinted oil with graphite ,or use black used diesel oil to see it. The result will be different i think,seen that oil will ride on its own material,and only its own oiliness and viscosity will be a factor of return speed. Teflon coating would do great in this application. Did you port the oil return passages on the head and block ? Very interesting video nevertheless.

[@justincallaham4765]

Great video I truly learned a lot from this, but what about gas?

[@nadronnocojr]

I use brake fluid to remove paint . I’m an artist And found this to be high,y informative

[@B1GDaddyFatStax]

Great video, as always! I have a question for engine flush users. Do you think it will negatively impact Glyptal in any way?

[@octymocty132]

what about the oil drag race with a polished case compared to the unpainted and painted ( assuming the unpainted has not been polished to a near mirror finish . i think it would match the painted case

[@jaredlemay9409]

That was an epic race

[@harley8728]

I wonder if this would work on inside intake manifolds

[@andyp2001]

It'd be interesting to see the same oil drag race on polished aluminium vs rough cast finish, might get a similar improvement in drain back for less work?

[@Jafromobile]

I did this with a forged steel crankshaft once. The 'polished' side wins, and yes, it's a similar improvement. I didn't actually polish the forged steel surface of the crank that I used in the test, but I did grind a smooth channel into it, and it won in repeated tests. Polishing would be a waste of time IMO because it would un-polish itself on the first slightly-humid day. It would oxidize more quickly.

[@Jafromobile]

I found it. It's in the "grinding oil return channels" video right before the 5 minute mark. It's on forged steel, but you'll easily see how big of an advantage just having a smooth surface makes. Smoothing cast surfaces also removes stress risers which can become points for fractures developing in the material. So grinding casting smooth adds an additional benefit in that it strengthens the part.

[@dsfs17987]

the racing engines I've seen from the inside, toyota and subaru ones from world rally championship, they produce around 600-700 hp without air intake restrictors from 2l capacity with ~2000km special stage kilometer warranty, have smooth inside surfaces, no polishing, just sanded out, probably around 300ish grit as last pass, no paints or anything, just smooth surface

[@383mazda]

Chrome the inside of the valve cover?

[@nick4506]

i think it drains faster because the paint isint porus. notice that the drops start off at the same speed then as the noncoated surfase soaks up oil the drop slows. but in a runing engine with all the cast surfaces already saturated with oil I don't think that drainback will be mutch different at all. maybe there are noticeable gains to be made from deburring a block but just glycol to bear its close.

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

I hate to throw a wet blanket on one of my Idols- but would the porosity of the cross cut aluminum open up the underside to let solvents wick in, from the inside out, lifting off the Glyptal? I'd like to see 2 samples, cast, iron and aluminum- correctly coated, then cut cross, and examined under high mag for amount of penetration. Maybe your local University has a scanning electron microscope they could use to examine? A more fair test- would be the solvents against the cured coating top, not from underneath. This also makes you think- would this coating benefit more from a rough, porous surface to penetrate into- or a closed, polished surface, to just float on top of, and dry? Think about that. Like roots of a tree in soft dirt or on top of your driveway.

[@mau77fx]

But what if you polish the mata?l. Would it drain faster than Glyptal? Could you "polish" the glyptal to meke it less rough?

[@annamckinney6622]

Glyptal will also fail on todays style gasoline (part methanol). Tried a similar test to this one, samples are still soaking. Wanted to find something to see if anything will hold up to long term gasoline (with methanol blend) exposure. Installed "tubes" in some ported cylinder heads and wanted to see if something can seal from vacuum leaks.

[@Matty-Z]

I've got two thumb's-up to give, but KZbin only allows one :-(

[@denelvo]

Matt I was thinking the same. We need to create another account.

[@MaximusPsychosis]

Thank you sir, i was going to use this for my block (i like the concept that it'll stop oil sludge buildup from sitting oils), but I'm running e85, so i wont now.

[@andregross7420]

Could you try hot ethlyne glycol on a sample? It removes powder coat like butter at a simmer. People use it to clean model RC engines, and any paint that goes in doesn't come out.

[@THECONDOR98]

You might consider adding an inline filter for the air compressor. A lot of times it spits oil

[@christinenevistiuk7906]

I know this is old but you did say gasoline with ethanol will remove this glyptal right ? It's because I know of a motor cycle engine rebuilding shop that uses this . And I live in northern Canada and we use gas line antifreeze in are gas tanks every so often. Great channel like the way you try and explain everything!!!!!!