GM Hydroboost Brake Booster Leak Repair

[@yzmoto80]

@2:45 : Break loose as many 12 point bolts holding the booster assembly together, before going into the cabin and loosening the bolts fastening it to the firewall. Great video Sir ! So refreshing to watch a how to video from someone who actually takes their time to know the proper names of a certain part.

[@Bramon83]

Lol just posted the same thing

[@pawpatina]

Or leave it on the firewall... way easier.

[@dude3146]

I need to attempt this. And from watching a few videos. It seems like this can be repaired with it still attached to the firewall. Seems like everyone takes it off the firewall. Is there something I'm missing?​@@pawpatina

[@pawpatina]

@@dude3146 getting it off and back in is a bit of a hassle fiddling with the spring and lever arm that goes in first. but way easier than getting under the dash and messing with the pedal assembly

[@racrx7]

Leave the return spring out along with the star retaining washer. It can easily be reinstalled after the two halves are bolted together. This will have less spring pressure to fight upon reassembly and less chance of cutting the seal.

[@matthewfonseca7562]

Definitely

[@305MRFIXIT]

Caution... That groove where the seal fits into is EXTREMELY sharp...!!! Also, when installing through the firewall, make sure the shaft is on the correct side of the pedal or it will have to be taken out to have it on the correct side (if you can make sense of that, lol) Ask me how I know... Great video bud!!!

[@chrisroberts2194]

How do you know what side the rod goes on because I put it all back together and the brakes lock up as soon as I start my vehicle. Trying to figure this out. Please help

[@vinnyboombots8270]

Good video, just one tip. You should break the star bolts loose while it's still in the vehicle

[@robertpedroza6794]

Thanks for the tutorial, learned a lot from this video and saved a lot of money doing it myself on my 99’ chevy suburban. Was able to split it open to replace the seals without removing it from the firewall. Seamed too complicated under the dash. Thanks again!

[@bensonhedges5471]

Was it difficult to do it that way???🙂

[@robertpedroza6794]

@@bensonhedges5471 hey, not at all. Only little issue was keeping the spring aligned while bolting it back. Would help if you have a helping hand while you bolt it back. Seals are like $20.00 on Amazon. Good luck!

[@zionpope9491]

I’m gonna try that tomorrow night mines leaking like crazy

[@C.dieslevonankwek7]

I was thinking the same thing, leave it bolted to the firewall, seems way easier and faster

[@robertpedroza6794]

@@C.dieslevonankwek7 yes, you can replace the seals without removing it from firewall. Too much hassle if you do that. Will save a lot of money doing it yourself.

[@tomhenderson2430]

Sweet. I looked hard and long for a unit under $700 for a 79 Chevy and found out they don't even rebuild it anymore. I never would have tried and had success with a seal kit without this video. Thanks.

[@ferdinandsanchez9758]

will this kit work for a 2009 chevrolet silverado 2500hd?

[@jrstowell100]

Excellent video. Thank you! I was able to replace the seal while the hydroboost was still on the firewall. Had no problems getting to the bolts. So far no leak.

[@denisewilson8367]

Thats how I took mine apart. I'm hoping it all goes back together after I figure out how all the "guts" go back inside. It exploded apart when I removed the last of the 5 bolts. I've never fixed any kind of brake problems. And I've gotten some bad advice & instructions. So hoping this works after I get it all together. Doing things 1 handed is also hard.

[@OtayBuckwheat]

I think I have more room to work with on my 95 Yukon.

[@mayken6661]

Did u get it done? I’m going to have to do this on my ‘04 Tahoe.

[@jrstowell100]

@@mayken6661 yes, no further trouble.

[@stevenjohnson7571]

I was wondering if this could be done without removing the entire assembly

[@chrishouck9327]

I figured out that using a couple long extensions with a swivel socket on a electric 90 ratchet to get the 4 nuts off from behind brake pedal works a lot better than just a regular ratchet, saved me a lot of time.

[@artofwarindustries8797]

Just finished this repair after watching the video. Very well done.

[@alexanderthegrape5370]

You're a life saver just got a 29yr old city truck with a leak I'm like wtf 😂

[@QBKILLAR]

Thanks a lot! Saved me 200 or more on buying a new booster.

[@elafamado278]

I just did mine today and its important to say that when you are about to assemble,when you feel pressure is because the new seal its blocking the piston, that's why won't go in easy !!!! I find out the to make it easy its use a flat screwdriver front the front hoe where the master cilinder is and press down the new seal around, be careful not demage the new seal ! and job done 👍 all go in with no pressure well done 😎 !" Thanks for you video i didn't replace the hidraulyc booster 👍 i did save some $$$$$$

[@mayeri3083]

What do you mean with a screwdriver? Use the tip or the handle side? And press where the master cylinder goes into?

[@elafamado278]

@@mayeri3083 on the inside of the tube where the piston slides in you will see the gasket all round when you try to assemble back you need to press down all around the seal to let the piston in to the tube !!!! You will need a flat screwdriver small ! Be careful not to damage the seal take your time !!!

[@elafamado278]

Im so 😊 happy i did the job my self, no problems so far and non leak, just replace a 12 dlls gasket, thanks to this video 👍

[@golith41]

I do love falling asleep to Andy Griffin narrating 2 me how to fix a Chevy. Love the new intro

[@MrSubaru1387]

I'll take the Andy Griffith comment as a compliment. Lol

[@jamesmcnamara7484]

I have replaced one of these in my 3500 Suburban. Now with this video I am confident I can rebuild it, and save my friend some cash doing one for her truck

[@butchtheiw]

Great video, very informative! So informative that at about the 5 minute mark, I knew for sure that I'm paying somebody to do this job. I just changed out my power steering pump yesterday, and found after I got it out that it wasn't the pump or hoses that leak, it's the weep hole between the brake master cylinder and the hydro boost. Damn!! Wrong repair! But you did a great job explaining exactly what I needed to know. Thanks very much.

[@oye9919]

Damn, I almost made the wrong repair too.

[@JLE1177]

I was afraid of this but spent a good two weeks watching vids and pressure washing the area in question. Don’t feel bad though it’s difficult to tell where the leak is originated from

[@OtayBuckwheat]

I didn't realize mine was the hydro boost at first either.

[@mayken6661]

Yes it is!

[@hasanalzaabi]

💪💪👊great job. Thanx to you man u saved me from wasting . 500$ for a new hydrobooster 👊👊👊 Appreciate ur efforts man 👊👊👊

[@ferdinandsanchez9758]

will this kit work for a 2009 chevrolet silverado 2500hd?

[@mayken6661]

Nice video. No corny jokes - straight to the point with clear explanation. 👍

[@iwilldo1982]

Nothing worse than grade school comedy hour when looking for information

[@tokuzumi1]

A tip to help remove the master cylinder from the hydroboost, and to give yourself more room to get the hydroboost off of the firewall is to remove the bolts that hold the master cylinder to the hydroboost. They are right hand thread (lefty tighty, righty loosey). Gives you an extra inch of clearance, and makes a world of difference in removal. Do the same for the reinstall. Reattaching those bolts with the master cylinder attached can be tricky, though.

[@derekwaszkiewicz8338]

Right hand bolts spin backwards. New to me and I make tierods with right and left hand threads and it's always right hand threads turn right to tighten and the tap that says left hand u turn left to tighten.

[@farmboyhh1]

Great video with great clear photography to show everything and great explanations. Thanks!

[@patrickwooden5905]

Got mine out of the truck and that spring retainer fell right out, messed with it for almost an hour trying to get it to sit properly. Seems my internal housing has been damaged and star wouldn't sit anymore with spring load; bummer to have to replace pump but got one at AutoZone. Thanks for the good video

[@lesarmstrong5379]

Thanks. I have 06 avalanche my boost have leaking for a year this Video gave my what I needed to know. Thank you

[@rickandersen8632]

Your narration sounds like Mission Control when getting ready for a launch. 👍

[@brianskinner4328]

I like how you're talking while repairing. Earlier to understand how to repair because sometimes you can't see what is going on under dash,etc.

[@MrSubaru1387]

Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍🏻

[@brianskinner4328]

@@MrSubaru1387 I've always enjoyed your videos. Can't wait to see you work and even modify all your vehicles

[@justinfrisinger543]

@@MrSubaru1387 would u happen to know the part number on the rebuild kid for the buster on the duramax orileys is telling me they dont make 1

[@MrSubaru1387]

I don't. Just searched it on Amazon and it popped up.

[@austinhydroax]

Good job on the video! Thanks, its time for my rebuild and this will help.

[@nealpellecchia3738]

I did it on the truck. Lasted several years but I'm gonna try blue devil trans sealer this time.

[@HughJassKoda]

best instructional video I've seen yet. Thank You. Very Helpful.

[@MrSubaru1387]

You're welcome.

[@asteriosanagnostou3243]

Thanks so much for this! I've been trying to upgrade my truck to hydroboost and this what I needed to do it on the cheap. Much obliged bro.

[@jamess.7261]

Thanks for this - fixed my '13 Silverado 3500 issue and saved some nice $$$

[@ferdinandsanchez9758]

will this kit work for a 2009 chevrolet silverado 2500hd?

[@chevyguy916]

Great video brother! Knocked out my rebuild in no time!

[@deactor]

I love my ChevyAstro! my wife didnt understand but its the best car! thank u for that grate gide from Russia!

[@Firstnamelastandlastnamefirst]

Pretty cool you got Rep. Doug Collins to narrate this video.

[@damxgopak457]

Thanks man now gotta get out there and do it.

[@H1Hummer]

Wish me luck I just removed one from an H1 Hummer and it was a bit of work because it is buried underneath the CTIS system. Just watching this video and going to attempt to get it done tomorrow. 😅 Oh should mention I seen in another video when a guy went to split it after removing the bolts the thing had hydraulic pressure in it and he got sprayed pretty good. So always a good idea with the engine off to pump the brakes on and off at least four times to relieve the pressure.

[@hasanalzaabi]

Thnx alot for the video man really was so handy reparin it for my tahoe 2006 the only issue I faced is wen I replaced the seal it wasn't damaged or teardown it looks fine I think it only got weak coz f heat. Any way I placed the new O seal... while I was tryin to collect bouth parts together the new seal got damaged while tightening although I did lube it by steering fluid. I went bk to automobiles parts store he told me that the new seal made f Rubber the OEM seal was silicone. So he gave me another 1 but I ordered 2 in case somthin wrong happens. Again I opened the booster placed the new silicone seal it was hard gettin it in position . collected both parts tightened up brought it bk in the vehicle unfortunately it was leaking 🙄🙄🙄. I was so disappointed coz it was like a full day f workin on that part. 😣😣😣 I placed a wired cam in the booster wot I found is while I was tightening the bolts somhow the seal got crushed by the piston. steering fluid lube didn't work. Again I took it out went through the whole process I placed the last seal I got lubed by grease I just used it so lightly I used it on both piston & seal while I was tightening both parts I was lookin from the other side wich looks like the spider nest I used a flat screw driver to pull the seal on place while I was tightening the bolts the process was like tight a bit, take a look, push the seal in it place, repeat 🔂 till both pats joined together.

[@johnhalchishick7094]

Oh man I read a comment on getting the pins in.All you have to do is slowly push on the brake or rod.Those pins will come forward and you can just slip it on.Release the brake or brake rod slowly.

[@anonimoporsiempre6033]

MY NEXT PROJECT AFTER CHRISTMAS 2020 👌

[@jeremyyazzie3474]

Was kinda concerned when u just shoved the bottom piston thru the new seal. But u got it fixed 💪

[@brianbowers1275]

Thank you for the excellent video. I’m about to tackle my leaking hydro boost.

[@richardbolger4900]

Thanks! Good tutorial, but you make disconnecting the brake pedal and firewall nuts look too easy. Both disassembly and reassembly of those were the hardest part because of not having room.

[@thirdgearboogie2210]

I have rebuilt mine twice now, and it is still leaking. I am ready to buy a new new one from GM.

[@risingministries]

Good man. Thank you for sharing. God bless you

[@jcmellymel]

Haha also when opening the brake booster, be careful of oil to explode on your face! Wasn’t ready for that one

[@zazoomatt]

I just found out THIS Is My Problem on 1998 Chev C3500 454 gas. This has been VERY VERY Helpful. I just need the down time to fix this in Winter 2023-24 ! Well done I hope I get the chance to do it. Rock Auto rebuild Kit ?

[@wesfoley7812]

Thanks. I saw you struggling slightly breaking the bolts loose that hold it together so I broke them loose while it was still in the truck. Now I'm debating whether or not to cut the pedal rod off, replace the seals on that shaft, and weld it back on...

[@philc2780]

i like those special hose pliers.

[@z33tanner]

Had a failed rebuild puke fluid all over because i think i caught the seal on the way back in. Went with a reman unit fixed my issues.

[@paulhowell7482]

Do yourself a favor and get a 3/8" drive impact 15 mm deep well wobble socket ($20) and couple it to a 12" 3/8" drive extension. This and an impact is all you need to get the 4 nuts off the inside of the firewall. (If not already, get a cordless impact. You'll be surprised how much you use it. Plus, it busts off lug nuts and other high torque nuts with ease.) I replaced the seal with the hydro boost still mounted to the firewall. I was so proud of myself, but going back together, gravity was not on my side and I broke the rod that is internal of the booster. So, don't do that! I ended up having to replace the hydro boost, because that rod I broke is not sold separately. $200 lesson I thought I'd share. Using the tools I mentioned above, you can have it out in 15 minutes, if not sooner. Then you can stand it up on its end to reassemble it. That part is a piece of cake. PS, you will need a normal size flat tip screwdriver to pop the metal keeper off the main rod that connects to the brake pedal. You can rotate that metal keeper with your finger tips so you can get the screwdriver in it. Then just rotate the screwdriver to flex the metal keeper.

[@jamaielwashington3159]

Great video! That was very helpful! Thank u!

[@chasechevy8933]

Very nice video 👌

[@johnmastr7901]

that had to be a little weird for you. congrats on 20k

[@MrSubaru1387]

Thanks!

[@vinnymanyzfr1]

Thanks for your video

[@justmeokay8253]

Cleveland is that you?

[@joselebron3319]

Thank you for video,

[@richardrandall1852]

Jeez is it ever gonna work again! ?

[@LloydCotten]

Great video! Saved me lots of $$$$

[@chrispartaka9164]

Great video sir!

[@MrSubaru1387]

Thanks!

[@mayeri3083]

Wow just stumbled upon your videos never seen any of your videos before, your actually quite good really enjoyed watching. My power steering cylinder started to drain fluid, hence starting leaking, or rather emptied overnight and had a loud screeching sound, so went to AutoZone to pick up some power steering, and topped up my power steering reservoir, it seems it's leaking from the middle where the hydro boost and the master brake cylinders touch is where it's leaking, but there shouldn't be any power steering fluid in between only in-between the hrdro boost, I guess it's dripping down and looks like it's coming From in-between the hydro and master cylinder. Anyways will try to remove the hydro booster and change the o-rings and hope that's the problem. Maybe you would know I have a 2010 Chevrolet Express 2500, I had a new power steering pump put in, I had my steering column greased all the way down to the axle or wherever. But point being my steering is extremely hard, yes just now my power steering seems to be leaking wonder if I need to get a whole new hydro booster and maybe that would help for the rough steering on my vehicle? unless you think one of the lines the high pressure or low pressure is clogged? it's legit really annoying when you're in a tight spot and the vehicle not in motion really hard to turn the wheel. Wonder what your take on this is. Anyways really a beautiful clear video, loved the steps and video clarity as well. Coming up to par with CrisFix who is also amazing KZbin car guy! Great job. One more subscription added..

[@denisewilson8367]

master cylinder & hydro booster are for your BRAKES only. They have nothing to do with your steering, or how hard it is to steer. That would be your power steering pump, steering box, worm gear ect. Good luck!

[@yzmoto80]

@@denisewilson8367 😳 WOW ! The amount of ignorance in your comment is quite humorous. PLEASE, do explain to all of us what a Hydroboost system. Edit : Start with schooling the person that “liked” your comment.

[@13yearsaprepperr.jtilbury.51]

put the actuator rod in and grab the end with some viv=ce clamps make it 100 time easier to put back together

[@johnhalchishick7094]

Better yet leave the star keeper spring and plunger off until after you put it together.Just slides in the back no problem.When you buy a new unit ,you use the star,spring and plunger from your old unit.Just remove the star everything will come out.Then just slip it into the new one

[@ak27zz76]

thanks!

[@Bramon83]

Pro gamer move: break all bolts loose while it's in the truck.

[@brianyoung4659]

I have a 2011 Chevy 3500. Your gasket fix will work.

[@jmalvarez61]

Buenos Días tengo una Chevrolet 2004 y tiene ese mismo problema compré el kit que usted Recomienda lo monte y aún así sigue liquidando que más podrá ser

[@miguelmartinez3369]

Que era?

[@jmalvarez61]

@@miguelmartinez3369 lo avía montado mal compre otro y quedó bien

[@1nvertedReality]

Also check that you aren't loosing brake fluid first. Thought it was the booster but after a bunch of pumps the rear cavity of the brake reservoir was empty. Black cloud of inferior acdelco seal material. Great vid for the hydro leak though, thanks

[@jkitch419]

I'm having the same problem on my 1990 Chevy G30 motorhome, brake fluid leaking, pedal eventually goes to the floor, check the reservoir, the back one is completely empty, fill it back up, works good for a couple days, then it's empty again! I can see fluid below but can't find exactly where it's coming from. There's not a lot of info or videos on these old Chevys. I know this post is 5 months old, but can I ask how u fixed it? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[@1nvertedReality]

@@jkitch419 Replaced the master cylinder. The hydroboost has a weep hole where it and the master cylinder mate. It was wet so either the booster or the master and I wasn't low on power steering fluid but losing brake fluid fast. My pedal was also going almost to the floor. Had to be the master cylinder. If you have a vacuum booster it may be leaking in the cab under the carpet where you wont notice it for a long time. Maybe a chemical smell inside but you could lose a lot of fluid to the foam padding before it starts wetting out the carpet.

[@1nvertedReality]

If hydroboost pay close attention to the mating circumference where the master slides into the booster. They make a couple different sizes. Best if you can take it with you to the parts store to match that feature before you leave.

[@picwick57]

Awesome tutorial I wonder if my issue would be related as I have lost brake pedal pressure recently. Brakes & calipers are recent. However there has been leakage in & about the hydro boost

[@mayken6661]

Very well could have been. As PS supplies power to brakes through hydroboost. Did u get it fixed, because I have a slight leak now

[@guitarguy3221]

I'm also curious if the seal fixed your problem. My steering & brakes went out and only issue i found is the hydro unit leaks slightly

[@picwick57]

installed a rebuilt one and issue was a not the hydroboost but a faulty front caliper. seized open @@mayken6661

[@estrellachristians4524]

Muy bueno. Gracias

[@salvadorbarbosa398]

Donde se puede conseguir los sellos

[@dennissytsma3561]

The kit I used was from amazon ZFLXH For Hydro boost Repair Kit Chevy GMC Ford GM Dodge Seal Kit Hydro-Boost Leak 3 Piece. The direction of the lip seal is critical point. Mine is still leaking so maybe I had not cleaned the bore enough. I have it apart again today.

[@johnhalchishick7094]

I have done my twice with that kit. Both times two weeks later leak comes back. When I pulled it apart after the first replacement. I could clearly see the seal was bent in one spot. haven't pulled it back apart to find out what happened the second time.

[@paulgarcia458]

I actually had to cut the shaft to get it out of the trucks firewall, n weld it back together with a coupling

[@jamesphillips1175]

Both my 95 GMC 3500 and my 04 yukonxl 2500 leak, both just work trucks.

[@rmp608]

THANK YOU!!!!!

[@avilamarin]

Thanks.

[@kevinc.8869]

Mine has been leaking for a while. I have the kit, I just need to get it done.

[@franknbery]

ive never had to remove any thing from the inside just to replace the couple of rubber gaskets but ok just have to be careful nothing from the inside of the booster shoots out and drops in the darkness

[@cambassplayer666]

@4:56 nice tongue action hahaha

[@crankbait2768]

Can you please tell me about the Hydro Boost repair you did back in 2018. Which direction does the little yellow plastic cone go in and does the little round check valve with the 3 little holes face inward or out toward you when installing. Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thank you.

[@coreysandifur7989]

Hay man did you ever figure out where that plastic cone piece went too just tried to rebuild my and have no idea where it goes back at

[@jbleslie8838]

Yellow cone goes in first with the flat side facing outward and the little plastic check valve goes in with the fingers also facing outward

[@68paulie]

Is there an O ring between the master cylinder where it bolts up to the booster that I can replace its leaking right at that plate where those 15 mm nuts are

[@JohnnyAnderson1]

pretty sure that what that lip seal prevents @10:00

[@bowtiebuilding]

So if yours leaking into the floor board? I just bought a 2500 4x4 Sierra and it’s got fluid all in the driver side floor board

[@JohnnyAnderson1]

@@bowtiebuilding very possible

[@denisewilson8367]

its the figure 8 seal he replace 2nd after the O ring he did first. That's the seal between the booster & the master cylinder.

[@johnhalchishick7094]

I've replaced the seals twice both times.Two weeks later leak comes back

[@butchtheiw]

So, I'm finally getting to this job today, and my question is this- my rebuild kit came with a lot of other seals, rings, brass fittings and some other stuff. Where do all those parts go?? I'd sure hate to go to all the trouble of replacing the inner seal and then find out there were other seals leaking that I didn't replace. ???

[@richardrandall1852]

I put in a 12oz bottle of Lucas power steering stop leak in mine, haven't drove enough now to see if it works!! ?

[@ladjkaoz]

great vid... im just order the PS line pump to booster... but after watching your video I belive I have a bad boster... where did you got that seal kit... a rebuilt one is over 200s ouch... i may just rebuild it instead..

[@robertpedroza6794]

Amazon sells it

[@ladjkaoz]

@@robertpedroza6794 i already pick up whole unit from oreyli... 10x more expensive.. thanks....bro..

[@williamzacarias8917]

great tutorial but my break pedal feels kind of soft booster and master was replaced and it was bleed through the lines any ideas of what it could be i don’t like the way it goes down to the floor

[@ronniebarringer5887]

So it comes in a kit.. did I miss something or did you only replace the one seal that was leaking? And awesome video.. this gunna save me lots!.

[@demonslayer951]

just replaced the seal inside for the large piston

[@ronniebarringer5887]

Sweet. I have the same problem hopefully this fixes mine too.

[@demonslayer951]

@@ronniebarringer5887 i just finished doing it on my 05 duramax, so far its not leaking anymore hopefully stays like that

[@ronniebarringer5887]

Did the new seals. Now started the truck break peddle goes to the floor on it's own and the lines to the hydro booster get hot as hell real fast... what did I do wrong? Lol.

[@demonslayer951]

@@ronniebarringer5887 ummm did you make sure the piston moved freely after you reassembled it before installing back in the truck?

[@ma_sol_mdi]

How about a question, how much do you adjust the torque to tighten?

[@tomwright6151]

Im yelling cut the dam hose end off at my phone Did you hear me ?..lol

[@butchtheiw]

Ok, changed my mind. Already have the rebuild/seal kit, so I'm going to do it myself (with the help of your video). I've got to pick up a set of line wrenches (flare nut wrench). You didn't mention what size those nuts were in the video. If you happen to see this comment, please let me know what size those are so I don't buy a set with every size but the ones I need. Thanks! Lee

[@davidbrownell698]

What about the accumulator? How do you test it and where can you buy a replacement?

[@John-kp1dq]

Witch way does check valve go fell out when I took off

[@AmalgmousProxy]

Fun fact: That seal kit fits Ford, GM and Chrysler.

[@flakitoc2605]

Good video man.This kit is good for Chevy express van 2011?

[@Letrick]

2002 mustang gt with hydro booster. All my brakes are dragging. i bought the vehicle and immediately did a brake change so I have no clue if it was happing before I installed new pads and rotors. Has the booster failed or another problem? Changed the master cylinder and did not fix the issue

[@stevemas4966]

Not much to say other than thank you.

[@dustyLenscap906]

Replaced my cylinder seal, mating seal and o-rings. Started truck and brake pedal instantly sucks to the floor and you can’t pull it up until you turn truck off. Any ideas?

[@bwagenberg]

What is the lip of a seal? Wish you showed us with the old seal.

[@JohnSmith-vt5ry]

Where was it leaking? I have a PS leak where the master cylinder connects to the booster (bottom side). Brake fluid not leaking. Do I need a new booster or just rebuild like this video?

[@judithking9404]

What about the 2 seals on the push rod

[@christopherpropst7357]

Can you tell me if the small check valve had a check ball in front of the yellow piece or not?

[@dcperez81]

Excellent video Sir. Who did you get the rebuild kit from?

[@dcperez81]

Never mind. I see from previous replies.

[@ethancrosscross4255]

How Do you replace the seals on the rod that goes to the firewall

[@TRICITYTRASHOUTS]

There's a small circular piece that fell out of mine, which way does it go? There's a bearing (check valve) does it go in or out????

[@EZ-PZ-ECM]

Had same thing happen... at 11:57 in video for a split second when he finishes putting the seal inside and holds it up you get a glance of it and as long as he has it right it goes with the 3 holes facing you. Hope this helps the next person.. and thank you for your video...

[@johnnybhoy4278]

Thank you sir!

[@TruckTaxiMoveIt]

9:30 mentioned power steering fluid I truck has a leak from that area and I know my power steering fluid is very very low I didn't know that there was a connection between the two does power steering fluid go in that area too or were you talking about brake fluid?

[@MrSubaru1387]

The hydroboost is feed hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump. Power steering fluid circulates through the steering rack/box and the brake booster.

[@denisewilson8367]

@@MrSubaru1387 ok I thought that was brake fluid that creates the pressure. Good to know. I'll also check my power steering fluid since I recently had a leaky hose fixed. My power steering fluid was always low. Thank you for explaining this. I couldn't figure out why you were turning the steering wheel back & forth & pumping the brakes while the engine was off.