RUST ENCAPSULATOR showdown PT.2 - 2 YEAR REVIEW!!

[@Dubbin64]

Great series, thanks for the follow up. About 15 years ago POR-15 was probably the #1 recommended rust treatment product on car forums. That plus being expensive and involved means a lot people try to self justify the product and their choice by defending it. A big reason people loved POR-15 was the thickness and how hard it is when bonded to rust. If youve ever tried to sand or wirewheel POR-15 you know. That thickness can add a lot of mechanical structure to thinned out sheet metal, so lets say your cars vintage a driver and youre not ready to fully swap in new panels, you can just POR the crap out of all the thin sheet metal thats rusted and maybe pinholed but not yet fully rotten. Then keep driving the car until its actual restoration time. Saw it used the most on VW floor pans, and it seems to work great in that application since you can get a layer on both the top and bottom of the floors. Im not sure how these other products compare as far as adding that strength back to thin sheet metal but if you want that effect and cant be bothered with the prep and cost it seems like Chassis saver is probably the choice. Anyways por-15 is expensive and has a complicated/involved application. The most important thing your test shows is that ANYTHING with rust convertor in the product name is way better than nothing, so just pick something and get it on.

[@randyochoa1757]

I’m currently working on a 1960 euro bug and this is comment is just what I needed to read. So I do feel my metal is thin and not strong. So I’m seeing the steps in the por-15 but don’t wanna mess up on the 3 steps and the cost $$$ so u think the chassis repair is my best option or the ace? Also I was planning on spraying truck bed speckle spray after the rust coat

[@95roadie]

@@randyochoa1757 chassis saver is your best option. In my personal opinion, using both POR and Chassis Saver extensively, Chassis Saver adds a bit more strength than POR does. Both are great products though. As the guy you replied to said, they’re all better than nothing.

[@travispratt6327]

@@95roadie Chassis saver seems like a great product, do you know if it can be sprayed or if there’s an equivalent spray?

[@95roadie]

@@travispratt6327 you can spray it, brush it, wouldn’t advice finger painting it but you can do that too if you wanted lol.

[@travispratt6327]

@@95roadie lol, funny you say that I watched a video of a guy applying corrosion coating with a rubber glove and a sock over it, claimed it worked really well to rub it in ect.

[@shredfast4819]

I appreciate the time and dedication it took to do this. Do a 3 year.

[@_Peremalfait]

Respect for sticking with this test for two years. Cool to know the store brand can hold its own.

[@836dmar]

Kudos for actually following up on a test over a two year period!

[@apuckett1971]

Thanks for doing the 2 year review

[@janvanhunks7287]

Forget about the trolls. This comparison is relevant and I'm sure you'll get a ton of views for years to come on this experiment. Keep doing annual reviews if you can

[@ElmoIsBold]

I agree. Everyone wants to know what you think of a product the day after you applied it - including the seller. Always wait until after something has been well used for a good while.

[@JackWilson327]

A 2 year review in Oregon?? Waaaaat? Dude, awesome, truly. I was surprised they all did as well as they did. That green Eastwood stuff looks like the dope to me!

[@jacobaguilar6756]

I've used it personally on numerous truck cabs and ive yet to see anything negative from it!

[@howev92j]

Thank you for these tests. I am a fan of Magnet Chassis Saver; it also is to be stirred not shaken... It states it will fade, but does not effect protection results. Unlike the POR fans, I will not make excuses lol. I used a paint sprayer, followed and used recommended prep then laid two (2) coats. 6yrs no rust. 88 Chevy Scottsdale

[@crabbydaddy3641]

Hi Me , thanks for this . I am about to put it on my 2011 Silverado frame, gives me hope it will last.

[@KurtBraunel]

I was literally going to use POR15 today on my truck, and after watching your great video, I am taking it back and heading over to ACE, thanks for taking the time to make this side by side comparison!!

[@TheSpeedmaster1970]

I used por-15 on my mustang and 5 years after it still looked like I just put it on, I think the thing you missed was POR-15 has an ultra-violet sensitivity and must be topcoated if continually exposed to sunlight. Once topcoated, POR-15 will remain effective for many years.

[@airuzair2424]

What about under the car does it need too coat

[@djsonicc]

@@airuzair2424 undercarriage isn't really exposed to sunlight

[@NothingCompares2U]

I used the metallic blue engine enamel, great topcoat. Looking at the writeups , being oil-free and using metal ready for a decent amount of time seem to be the most important thing and ultra violet damage is just cosmetic, it cracks.

[@YourMashedPotato]

I'm not sure how many times he has done these tests because there are different products here than the original test I watched. That said, in the original test I watched he addressed that issue (the top-coat) as he did in this video... he wanted to test the product itself, and as he mentioned all products would benefit from a top-down. My own two cents for the cost and prep, this product should have included a top-coat! In these videos this stuff was just exposed to the elements, not road use, big difference..

[@raycoutu9554]

Was your car real rusty underneath? Or clean?

[@RockyRaccoon3281]

Great video. I wish that you included mastercoat, the master series in your comparison. Its far more forgiving than por 15 as far as prep goes. Also, in the industry standard salt fog test, por15 lasted 1000 hours and had significant rust creep under the coating. Mastercoat lasted 14,000 hours in the salt fog test with no rust creep under the coating. Pretty amazing. Also, if you add the topcoat over the primer, your painted surface will be impermiable to all automotive fluids. Even brake fluid. It even made it through 90 days submerged in acetone. Very impressive. About 5 years ago i took apart my weber bbq. Sandblasted the entire frame inside and out. Prepped, primed and painted it inside & out with por15 exactly to their specs. Also, i used their hiheat paint around the firebox area as per instructions. 5 years later the bbq frame is shot. Rusted out completely around the wheel area. Bbq is now in my shed waiting for another complete rebuild. On my 97 f250hd, 7 years ago my mechanic fabricated completely new supports for the factory fibergass cab steps from square steel tube. Awesome job he did. He coated them with por15 primer and topcoat. He was the one who turned me on to por15. After seeing my post por15 bbq rust out, i checked the step supports and they too were in bad shape. Same problem with my cooler rack that i redid because the powder coat didn't hold up. 2 years ago i came across mastercoat. I was getting ready to redo the radiator core support and frame on my 97 f250hd. I came across a video on KZbin by repair geek about the proper way to undercoat a vehicle using mastercoat. I called mastercoat and spoke directly to the owner Pat who answered the phone and explained that he used to work for por15. He explained everything about mastercoat and the salt fog test. He also told me they use mastercoat on bridges and train cars for rust proofing and so graffiti is easily removed with acetone. So far after 2 years, my radiator core support and frame look like the day i painted them. Sorry por15 but mastercoat is FAR superior I plan on using it on the inside and outside of all the body panels and bed of my truck when i finish the refurb on it.

[@crippledbeast_U-toob]

You are way more dedicated than I am. I would have found that angle iron laying somewhere 3 or 4 years later and remembered I was supposed to do 2 more videos about it.😂

[@clintonfanning1470]

Great videos. Appreciate your time and money into showing the different results. I am familiar with por15. I used it about 12 years ago on a 1980 el camino frame that had sat in a hay field in missouri for at least 15 years. I will say it is a tough product and it worked really well at actually getting through the surface and into solid metal. A big part of why it is so thin. I had just chiselled most of the rust off and brushed it on. A year later I went back and knocked a a bunch of the loose rust off exposing cleaner metal underneath and applied another coat. Now 11 years later I have been slowly working on a full frame off and the por15 is still holding good on the frame. I came across your video though for my 2011 ford f150. The rockers and cab corners are rotting here in iowa and have quotes on replacing them. I am hoping to get another year in and stop the rust from doing more damage than it has already before spending the money on a 9 year old truck. Really hoping I can find something that I can get to hold over and just patch in the few spots that are through and top coat with an undercoat or bed liner. I have been eyeing Eastwood's products. I would like to see how the metal looks trying to remove these products. Is there any chance you could do a video sanding or light grinding to see how the metal cleans up after the encapsulation and difficulty removing it?

[@sparlin88]

so my gathering to the experiment is Preparation Preparation > Wire wheel metal as best as possible to remove as much surface rust and flakes as possible before coating . Great video and thanks for the time you spent with this !!!

[@dsSpitfiremk4]

Usually, the reason to not shake paint/coatings is to prevent air bubbles. If the paint sat for a few moments for bubbles to disperse, or your brushing technique eliminated them, there likely wasn't a big impact. The worse effect should have been bubbles transfered to the painted surface. You may have had this issue. I've used por15 extensively on a project car and have been both amazed and dismayed by it. The pain and expense of preparation is a huge issue.

[@GODSPEEDGarage]

@dsSpitfiremk4 that makes sense... I have a hard time thinking that shaking the paint would've caused it to be THAT ineffective... to my recollection I don't remember if there were bubbles in the can, but I really don't think there were bubbles when I brushed it onto the metal. I am in the process of testing it again. we'll see the results in 12 months. THANKS FOR WATCHING!!

[@dsSpitfiremk4]

@@GODSPEEDGarage I appreciate your efforts. This type of video is a valuable services. Fourteen years ago, my son as a 13 year old, painted our Spitfire motor silver and black with it. Full system, metal prep, marine clean all of it. Except I forgot to tell him to tape off the oil drain plug. It may as well been welded. Pulled the motor, put it back on the engine stand, and put a torch on it to melt it off. I wouldn't risk the torch on a full oil pan in the car. It took him running the torch and me using the breaker bar. The pan was rippling like it would collapse before the bolt gave way. Sadly, the car was hit. Thankfully no injury, and we will dismantle it this spring. The car had won trophies twice. That oil pan still looks like the day he painted it. I'll post a picture on my channel tommorow.

[@willc5979]

You should zip tie it to the bottom of your car so we can see a real world comparison with road salt

[@deedaartyst]

Ohhhhhhhhhhhh, yesssss, greaaaaaat idea, that iz ACCURATE. WE WUD LOVE THAT 1.

[@nickoloes]

Beat me to it. Need a more realistic environment.

[@deedaartyst]

@@nickoloes tru tru, like salt spraying on it, WITH annnd without a crack in them, yeaaaa go the distance, cuz here n michigan its reallll, but HIGHLY apprciated the video though, got me to buy the eastwood green 1.

[@Zlife-kz1go]

I love this! Awesome video. Iv used P0R-15 before and a year later the rust came back under salty Ohio roads. To much prep cost and was not as good as everyone says. Wish I knew this back in 2016. Now I'm using Eastwood products.

[@jacobaguilar6756]

Thanks a ton!!! For these reviews this just shows me that my truck cabs are gonna sealed for years to come with that green internal frame coating i too thought it was very impressive!

[@senseismash4604]

This is outstanding thank you for the follow up videos! I have an aircompressor needle scaller drills, wire wheels etc I have everything except for what I'm going to use after removing the rust on my FJ cruiser. Thank you so much for this its literally exactly what I needed

[@DIYSCOTT]

I am starting a restoration on my 1951 Dodge Power Wagon and this video and Pt. 1 were so helpful. I am going to do the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. By far the best video out there especially with the year and two year test. Thank You!

[@UnKnowNxPeRsoN]

I was using POR 15 and I have had good results if you apply multiple coats. I used it on some areas underneath my car. I have a big project to do in a rusted out trunk. I think I will try this rust cap by Hammerite. IT IS LITERALLY HALF THE PRICE, I watched both videos! This was very very helpful I am glad you took the time to make the follow up videos! Looking forward to year 3!

[@a.c.king-dk5yl1ep2m]

I just treated the rear axle and housing on my 98 Toyota Tacoma. Those axles are notorious for rusting. Mine was not all that bad ( I'm in the South, almost no salt used on the roads) so, I wire brushed it, pressure washed it, applied Krud Kutter ($5 for 8 oz.) with a brush, let it thoroughly dry and, then put on about 3 good coats of Black Satin Ace Rust Stop. I didn't even use the whole can. It looks great and at about $5 for a 15 oz. spray can it's hard to beat. I've used this process before on an old tractor with very good results.

[@vadrifter3200]

First off, thanks much for taking the time and putting out the funds to do these tests! Much appreciated, I was really interested since I have a 2003 Silverado that has started its life in Utah is now in the Washington metro area. Currently has Wool wax sprayed under it and in the new rockers and cab corners. I watched both videos and yes you fid shake it like you did with the Eastwood product. Then you “for funnzies” stirred. So I call bravo sierra. Por 15 has been around since the late ‘90’s or early 2000’s. I have read a lot of mixed reviews especially lately. Just saying!

[@mattangelo1280]

Thanks for doing this. I used the ace rust stop on my lifted silverado frame. Where i brushed and rolled it. It still looks good but where i used there spray can rust came back threw. Kinda makes sense.

[@jasonleuschen5283]

My POR’ed chassis looked the same as yours and I didn’t shake the can. I think it’s the top coat that is crucial for POR but I agree with you, requiring a top coat is a big negative.

[@CountyGarage207]

Top coating POR is crucial, or you might as well just not use it at all, so in my opinion he might as well not even include it in his test.. of course it's going to show rust after two years if you don't follow directions Lol the sun starts to break it down on day one. Those of us that have used it with top coating it all know that it blows these other products out of the water. Is it stupid that you have to top coat it? Yeah.. but I still see it as the best out of all these tested when applied properly.

[@thatguythatdoesstuff7448]

@@CountyGarage207 How would you know it blows the other products out of the water unless you have used and top-coated those other products in the exact same application?

[@CountyGarage207]

@@thatguythatdoesstuff7448 Do the other products instructions say they have to be top coated if used on something that will be exposed to UV? Nope.. and yes I have used the other products to their instructions. The thing with POR is it HAS to be top coated if it will be exposed to UV, and in that case when done correctly it is absolutely a superior product in comparison to the others. This test was done wrong, then said it was the products fault.

[@thatguythatdoesstuff7448]

@@CountyGarage207 Well, you are The Rusty Nut. I salute you in your quest to rust proof the world.

[@CountyGarage207]

@@thatguythatdoesstuff7448 Yessir! Up in the boonies of northern Maine. We have a saying "rust is lighter than carbon fiber"

[@Chico-Dee1]

Great videos for both Part#1 and Part#2. I've been looking at what to use and was really leaning towards POR-15. I have a lot of surface rust on my chassis and I really didn't want to spend 18 hrs going through the whole process of using POR-15. LOL I think I'm going to check out ACE's Rust Stop! thanks again. I've subscribed to your channel because of this!

[@Aaronferguson31]

From what I understand is the shaking can cause pressure in the can and possibly explode and it arerates it creating bubbles in paint job. I use Agriguard-same as Chassis Saver.

[@deegan727]

I used Chassis Saver on my K5 Blazer frame. It’s been 2 years since I’ve done it. The truck is my main/preferred daily driver and I live in the Chicagoland area (lots of winter road salt ). The Chassis Saver is still holding up and preventing rust. Other parts that were not coated like suspension, steering etc. have rust. I’m not saying Chassis Saver is the best but it’s working very well for me.

[@BigSalP]

Just a heads up... Some of those paints are UV light sensitive and affected by sunlight causing it to breakdown. I do know the POR-15 is definitely UV sensitive and that's why it "needs" to be top coated.

[@WiredCustomsSpeedShop]

I also shake all my paints, no big deal, and I’ve used POR15 a million times, and thanks for the video, a lot of good information

[@georgenamie948]

Great Video, appreciate the time you've devoted to it. That said-the POR15 silver has way more solids and therefore is way thicker also .Bottom line ...if you're doing a resto job and you want it to last forever do the POR15 as per directions. Wire brush or sandblast ,use their cleaner, their metal prep and do at least 2 coats and if its gonna get UV topcoat it. If you are just trying to cut some corners and slather something over rust any of them will do. With the coverage and duability you get POR15 is really not expensive,esp comparing it to everything else used in body work today. I have no affiliation, but I've been using POR15 since before it was branded,mainly on concours class restos and personal vehicles. In over 40 years, I've never seen it come off or fail when applied properly. Another option is to sandblast, clean and etch then use zinc chromate primer and topcoat

[@LoneWolfSnowplowing]

I used Eastwood rust encapsulator on my plow/salt truck. Didn't last long. I then used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Platinum and it has held up great.

[@F0XD1E]

Honestly they all did better than I expected. If you did any of these and gave it a good coat of topcoat, it looks like they'd all last for a good while.

[@arbot1]

good info! Really like your attitude and presentation! I like the bare bones approach! Ace rust stop for me.... saving $$$ Thanks

[@Liam1H]

Excellent real world testing on exactly the stuff we need checked out. You are doing us all quite a service. Thanks. This really helped.

[@mikemead2315]

Basically, it is a primer. It is made to stick to and encapsulate rust, and create a better surface for a top coat to stick to than the rust. It does not contain protection. Adding stuff to make it a top coat too detracts from it sticking to rust. Hey, if it was that easy to stick to and encapsulate rust, all top coats would do; primers would never be needed. Top coats are tougher and better repel UV, chemicals, salt, abrasion, and stains. Adding the stuff that makes them stick to rust better, reduces those top coat characteristics. Primers stick to to bare surface better and provide a better surface for top coats. Top coats protects everything underneath from the environment. Any combination primer and paint is a compromise. Some compromises are a bit better than others, but it is still a compromise from doing it right. Yes, I too have skipped steps and have not had problems. And I have kicked myself for betting and wasted my time and money when it failed.

[@shock80ey]

Great videos man, really appreciate the test. Por15 is interesting because every single test I've read or watched on rust prevention/conversion (slowing rust down) it always finishes near the bottom in terms of effectiveness, in fact some times it's dead last. Yet, there are fan boys everywhere on forums and in comments. I honestly don't really get it.

[@johnterpack3940]

And every single test has been done by someone who ignored the directions. I've seen it time after time. Guys shake it, leave off the top coat, then say, "see, it doesn't work!" I have yet to see a single competent test of it.

[@MordecaiSoup7]

Just watched first video and now the second review. Looks like tomorrow I'm going to return the por I bought today and stop by ace hardware on the way back🤣

[@haujeancontactee]

Go with Eastwood's top two rust encapsulators, the plus and the platinum are the best currently available. Then goop it up with cosmoline mil spec rust inhibitor.

[@alexjohn2495]

I said "oh shit, this dude did a 2 year review! I love this guy" and my girl looked at me like I was some kinda gay but it's always "simulated weather conditions" and this is way better

[@katherinemcneice9469]

Another one I've always used "Master series" coatings. Half the price of POR. Less prep, twice as thick. 10 times more effective!

[@jerryhesler8173]

I really appreciate your critique. You just saved me a butt load of cash. As per some of your viewers Ace Hardware here I come.

[@dundeeecroc]

I've used both colors of Eastwood encapsulators, great stuff, very hard to remove once applied to any surface.

[@deadhorsegarage928]

Good video I like the test I have some old cars to work on and rust is always a problem I plan on doing some videos and how to stuff eventually thanks for the info

[@bellyisis]

Thank you for this. I’m going to ace to buy theirs and will order Eastman internal to save my retired daily driver, now custom 01 SS Monte.All the years of salt/brine we’re kicking in.

[@deankay4434]

Unless you remove the frame, grind rough areas, wire wheel the rest, wipe everything with a pre-cleaner, I see little difference than having to repeat every 5 - 8 years. Unless it sits in a garage and never gets driven when brine goes down, snow followed by road salt and repeat, it all fails. The 60’s, 70’s trucks had extra thick “C” channel is self evacuating for the most part. Anything in a passenger car or newer, it’s just a matter of time. If new and you sprayed the inside of the frame, applied seam sealer where they are too cheap to do, then coated everything, you might buy another 5-6 years before rust shows up on a vehicle you paid twice as much as your first house. Wonderful! Just when you think it is whipped, a driver on their cell phone, arguing over tonight’s pizza toppings, come thru their RED light and slams into you. Still want it? Even the best collision shops won’t coat the inside much less the bottom with your favorite can & your insurance guy will tell you it’s not included because it’s not OEM. Still want it? ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired

[@Dixler683]

When POR-15 cures it releases gas. If the film drys too quick it traps the gas before it can escape, shaking only adds more air to the paint compounding the problem. The paint is thin so it can soak into the pores/grain of the base metal. Multiple thin layers is the key to success. Topcoating it solves the problem and it is a very durable , strong , flexible coating. It is expensive and back in the day it was the best available. Not many people will bother with all the important critical steps needed for a quality finish. I use it , a major pain in the ass, expensive but worth it sometimes. Today there are many equal finishes available . The Eastwood internal coating is surprising good at containing rust, I love it.

[@stephenpeacock8592]

Great explanation, you need to get this under more people's noses!

[@BornN2Grave1]

When I used POR 15 it was thick after stirring. I've hit painted items with a hammer and that stuff will not chip or scratch...it is rock hard when cured and never had any issues with it aside from sun fade. I am now having good results with rust converter followed by Rustoleum proffesional oil based enamel. It is really thick and I like to really work it into the surface by brushing with pressure in multiple directions then finish with soft strokes.I would not use either method on scaly rust. Quality prep is essential to any paint job IMO.

[@aaronwolk998]

I used POR 15 back when it was relatively new. I was young and dumb. I spent a very long time prepping a 75 Dart that did not deserve 5 minutes. POR 15 is overpriced, over complicated, and IMHO is just snake oil. I picked up the chassis paint in a quart from O'Reilly's and have had great success with half-ass lazy prep. I didn't degrease or even wash of dust from wire brushing off the scale, so I had some small spots break away here and there, but I wiped them down and re-coated the spots.

[@iSleepDoc]

Thank you thank you 🙏🙏 For a great review... I’m doing a rusted Nissan 300zx and your review is gonna be the basis of my rust proofing it!!!

[@TheGamersRace]

If shaking a product ruins it im not buying it lol. That stuff probably rumbled and tumbled all the way to the store where you got it from.

[@trenttuckfield535]

Shaking it doesn't ruin it it airates it and you need to let it sit and settle out before you use it.

[@georgenamie948]

POR15 dries using humidy not solvent evaporation -air bubbles contain humidity ,so, you dont want air whipped into the product whilst using it for that reason. It will also shorten the pot life of remaining product.

[@Paperweight64]

I'd like to see plain old rustoleum compared with these as a "control". Straight over the rust. I have a hunch that it'll turn out pretty much the same.

[@PhatYodaHF]

Top coat is to maintain the color and finish by stopping UV, it will still stop the rust but not look as good. As for agitating the paint, shaking the tin could build up pressure inside the tin and pop the lid all over the user. Stirring means the tin is opened to do it. Good vid

[@GODSPEEDGarage]

Great point!

[@drobb4207]

This guy's heart is in the right place! Thanks!

[@Boswell341]

The "do not shake" is because shaking will introduce air/moisture into the coating, and these kinds of moisture-cured coatings can then develop gas bubbles before they cure. Probably just a cosmetic thing, and if its on a chassis covered with dust & mud, you'd never notice.

[@waynebullock9717]

I feel like there's a James Bond "shaken not stirred" joke in here somewhere.

[@Mote78]

Just reverse it, “stirred not shaken”.

[@bearsstuff]

Thanks for doing this. I’m getting ready to do my ‘40 up and this is useful.

[@bernhard8540]

i stay away from pour15 i dont know anyone who has had good luck with it and i have a buddy who's a paint and body shop owner for over 20 years now and he swears by chassis saver for the price and ease of application and the fact that anyone really can use it and not worry about any complications i have redone my truck frames every two years and they are staying really clean for the PA weather and salt that chews away at our vehicles id like to see this same test but maybe with some salt treatments every so often or something just to see what it does on fully covered pieces of metal...:)

[@GunnerHillTX]

Very helpful video, thank you! We have an iron post & rail fence line here in Texas starting to rust through its paint... Ace Rust Stop encapsulator might be the answer, if it's not too horribly expensive... As for the shaking thing... I'm totally guessing here but, there might be a thick/heavy ingredient in the product which settles out and then doesn't mix well unless it's stirred up.

[@josephpuchel6497]

Hey I think thicker products need to be stirred to get good mix. Por15 needs really good preparation with it’s own cleaners. Then it might hold up. I’ve had really good results with Eastwood products.

[@Ry122]

Seems like that metal, even the uncoated sections is quite resilient. 2 years in the weather and no holes or flaking has formed. So i wonder if standard paint would have been just as effective

[@a2cryss]

Any bubbles from shaking in the POR 15 looks like it dripped to the edge so it should not have affected it that much. The UV is the bigger problem IMO. Thanks for doing this test.

[@hopalongjohnny9797]

Really depends on preparation, all in all they are all great. I went with Eastwood, little cheaper than POR 15.

[@Kuhlyedascope69]

hey i bought a 2005 ford f150 for 300 bucks off of some old farmer. been cleaning the frame any tips>?

[@leh3827]

I ordered Por15 kit from amazon, be here tomorrow. I am still going to use it. I am going to put 3 coats on, and no topcoat because it is not in direct sunlight. Thanks for this video. I might try chassis saver or any of the others later. Do any of them come in gray?

[@davidcarmichall6167]

Thanks for doing this video. Good info..rustoliem has a 2in1 rust inhibitor you brush on any idea if any good?. Need to save my Ranger.thanks again.

[@joshpickering3161]

For the ones that don't dry smooth would the bumpy surface make sound deadner harder to stick to ? For the inside pan on a 68 beetle. Thanks

[@Henryb869]

Video was very helpful, i have a question tho, im working on restoring a truck i would like to apply the chassis saver than primer than the automotive paint will this work?

[@Road_Rash]

This pretty much tells me, when I get ready to hit my frame with rust encapsulator, head to Ace...and I should be doing that in the next month or two...I'll be stripping the rust off & painting over the encapsulator, but if it hangs in there just as good as the others with no prep & no topcoat, why pay more just for a name?

[@veesoho93]

I find interesting that you applied the por 15 without the extra steps..im curious nowif we were to apply the extra steps to the other products.. i mean a cleaner / degreaser should be used anyway.. but the metalpreper.. could be interesting !

[@acdii]

To Really test this stuff, dunk the part in salt water and make sure it gets soaked good, then take it out and let dry, then set it out. Do this in early spring when cold surface and warm moist air come around. That will be the ultimate test. I had used Rustoleum rust convertor after wirebrushing the frame of my F350, then top coated with Rustoleum black paint. Two trips during the winter, and not washing it, sure as shit, the rust was back.

[@FATALMONSTROCITY]

Hey man, I’m working on a frame off job on a 65 impala and was wondering what you would recommend for frame that has some pitting. I’ve been doing research and got mixed reviews haha

[@jeffkmiecik5136]

I think I would prefer the thinner material like the Ace rust stop for it's ability to creep into crevices the thicker materials may not

[@802Garage]

Shaking instead of stirring should make zero difference anyways. People just have a sunk cost bias IMO. They likely just want to avoid air bubbles because that could create uncoated areas. Yours shouldn't have been affected at all. All of these coatings would fare better with a top coat. Not really the point of the test. All of them will also perform better with even more rust removed. You covered that in your first vid though. I still think a phosphoric acid converter first then top coat is likely the move. These work well though.

[@ricecowboy]

Shaking the can is only an issue if POR 15 is rolled/brushed on as it will introduce air bubbles. Otherwise, you can shake, thin out using solvent, strain, and use in HVLP application.

[@double_o_dan]

i used the gloss por15 on my 63 lesabre underside. it has been on for about 15 years now and still glossy. i tried to remove it from the steel fender liners and i couldnt even sand blast the product off i had to actually use a grinding stone to remove it. now i used it on my jeep and it turned a cloudy color. i found out on my jeep that you can use their caliper paint and it is uv stable.

[@michaelstrafello8025]

I had fading problems with chassis saver also on tow truck beds

[@Pierrericheart]

Good review. I love the idea of doing a two year test!

[@treowayne]

The shaking of the POR-15 isn't the problem. The issue is the lack of a top coat. It does not resist UV. It needs something opaque on top to keep the sun from damaging it.

[@poncho6784]

I've used POR 15 UNDER my car but avoid it elsewhere because if I recall it says that it is not UV stable without a top coat. Also FYI POR15 is fairly brittle and chips off fairly easily

[@markclough9000]

I use por 15 on all my plow trucks.Works great

[@nick7.3]

Is it better than rustoleum if I’m painting a bare metal frame with no rust?

[@coreyfink1412]

Thanks for doing the test for us!

[@peteshelby21]

Man shakes instead of stirring , beer explodes so bad it covers the whole Springfield area. Wait..... that was an episode from Simpsons..... But for real, curious why shaking makes a big Difference... and PS, that shirt is dope af

[@samgarvey4359]

it activates the components in it - causing teh paint structure to starts breaking down

[@ericcarr8634]

bubbles are issue i think due to something else listed prior to do not shake . i read as fast as i could but was in upper section. great job tho keep up the great work

[@ArturKSMR]

What y'all think if I coat my calipers with rust preventative coat POR 15 and then apply G2 caliper paint?

[@stephendonophan6750]

Subbed because of the 2 year review. Thanks!!

[@GODSPEEDGarage]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@themikeroberts]

Great info! Thanks for documenting it and posting.

[@tousshong9438]

You are right. The person whom wrote the instructions "F"'...up! They should have put that in Bold letter next to word "Stir Content Thoroughly /Do Not Shake"" as such. Also, topcoat would defeat the purpose of as you mention here. Nice works.

[@rohitbhatnagar7599]

What is difference between rust ENCAPSUATOR vs convertor vs remover

[@philipdecatanzaro1822]

Nice to see the products lost their shine. I've coated my truck chassis with POR 15. The thing I dislike about it the most is the gloss finish.

[@davidheether1655]

Gonna use corroseal on my frame and floors of my 63 impala. And I think I’ll top coat with the ace rust stop! Thanks.

[@randyochoa1757]

How’d it go?

[@davidheether1655]

@@randyochoa1757 car is in the shop getting the major tot repaired. When it comes back home thats when I will try it.

[@wallacemeoski2440]

I commend your efforts. Just to throw this out there but at least in the case of por 15 the main reason they suggest a top coat is due to the fact that por 15 is vulnerable to UV radiation. If compared to others out there the extra work is justified remains to be seen and anyone's mileage may differ. Rock on sir.

[@RustyRowdy]

Video was what I was looking for , thanks 👍

[@TheRaulr151]

Great review. Will probably go with Eastwood simply because I love their educational videos.

[@836dmar]

Coming up on two more years. Is that chunk of angle still around? It’s amazing how many rust converter/coating tests are started and you never hear another word one way or the other. Just curious. I’d like to coat a model A frame project.

[@GODSPEEDGarage]

are you talking about the test piece in this particular video? or the others? I am not doing annual reviews on this particular one, but it is sitting outside and I'm planning on doing a 5-year review. still a couple years out.

[@836dmar]

@@GODSPEEDGarage Cool. Just curious as few actually follow up.

[@irasupertrucker]

I used por15 followed all the instructions. Used the metal prep washed it. Painted it on. Looked absolutely great for about 6 months. Then it bubbled up and came off in big sheets. I have no idea why it did that.

[@richardchristianson2823]

It only needs to be overpainted if it will be subject to UV rays. Under body applications are out of the sun. I think the reason not to shake it is to not put bubbles into it.

[@shinigamilee5915]

Shaking and stirring are the same things. It just introduces bubbles. They level out with a brush.

[@Nunya-gk9fr]

What’s a good spray on top coat to go over the Eastwood encapsulator? I need some opinions, something good not aerosol undercoat

[@kaylanwade3392]

People top coat other rust reformers with cosmoline rp-342 and it's supposed to be good stuff. Good luck in the never ending war against rust!

[@kbtube8125]

painting is about the prep. 90% prep. 10% painting. you get out of it what you put into it.