Good Cheap ATB-R Grind Table Saw Blade / Intro To Woodworking

[@maydanlex]

Thanks for this. Love it when makers elaborate on specific info.

[@tintansigloXXI]

Estos videos con una café, una gran manera de aprender algo y empezar el día, saludos jon

[@ObsessionPhotography]

Stumbled across an CMT ATB -R on amazon, bought it to try, now one of my favorite blades, just bought 2 more

[@nicholassmerk]

I love my 40 tooth flat top "box joint" blade. I have a number of task specific blades, but that one gets used the most. I almost never use my combination blade and I'm saving it for plywood projects that I never do.

[@keith7630]

Nicely detailed video, Jon. I always enjoy your content. Thanks.

[@TomArt-x7o]

Nice video, it would have been interesting to see some common 18mm/3/4'' melanie chipboard/particleboard and how each blade perform.

[@tom18410]

Good complete information Jon, thanks.

[@ChuckP25.]

Thanks Jon. Great blade. Happy New Year. Best to Laurel and the family. Thumbs up from Florida.

[@wagnercintra4174]

Muito bom seus videos. Parabens!

[@MCsCreations]

Thanks for all the info, Jon! 😊 Happy new year! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@tonyb2760]

Unless I am making quite a few repetitive type cuts, I won't change the blade out for a specific blade profile. I'll just deal with the results with a chisel or something. I do have several "special" profile blades, but for just a couple of cuts, I aint changing it. Thanks for sharing

[@robertj1701]

I’ll stick with my Ridge Tool blades! Nice thick C4 carbide and can be re-sharpened many times (by Ridge Tool). I use their ATBR for everything from 8/4 hardwoods to birch ply. All cuts are glue-ready too! At only $159 it’s an incredible bargain! My backup is Forrest woodworker II. Don’t even bother with lesser blades.

[@timothycreasy2161]

I think the V notch from the ATB could be made into a SMALL, but nice design element.

[@bobalman]

Great information! Hey, I noticed a "squeal" when you lowered the blade on your saw. I have a SS as well, and it squeals when I lower the blade, which drives me nuts. Do I need to worry about this? I have lubed the bejesus out of everything I can imagine could make this noise. Anyway, any insight on this will be appreciated!

[@jocmarti]

A sharp blade and zero clearance insert make a world of difference for any blade.

[@mattrinne]

Is there much carbide there so it can be ground sharp again by a sharpening service? Buying a cheap blade multiple times to replace vs paying a sharpening service to sharpen a mote expensive blade... Pros/cons? Environmental impact is negligible, but worth considering with thousands of woodworkers throwing out cheaper blades. Thoughts?

[@rolfbjorn9937]

How many thousands of linear lengths of cuts do you actually make with one type of cutting tool that you ever need to worry about blade sharpening? Outside of an industrial/pro shop. The 40T blade that came on my Miter saw only just got replaced after about 9 years because I got a deal on a new better ATB-R blade with less hook angle, and I relegated it to a backup blade. Sharpness was not the factor, gunk removed and it cuts clean into even aluminium.

[@mattrinne]

@rolfbjorn9937 idk haven't counted. 😆

[@ScottyDrake]

We often hear about avoiding making joints too tight, because all the glue will be squeezed out of the joint. So it seems to me that having those V-grooves at the bottom of a dado would serve to give glue a space to go, rather than it being squeezed out of the joint. I've never seen anyone talk about this, so am I wrong? I'd appreciate your comment.

[@ponyboyc]

I think it comes down to how it looks. Ideally the dado would be used for a shelf or something similar so there is no pulling force just downward. The layer of glue used on any joint is almost microscopic it soaks into the fibers and bonds the wood together

[@timothycreasy2161]

I do agree with you, it should give the glue space. And should not be all squeezed out.

[@jeffbaker8808]

The piece won't seat very well and there's too much space for glue.

[@liameverything4444]

I don’t think you can have to tight of a joint because wood glue soaks into the grain rather than just being there and that we’re it gets the strength when there’s gaps the glue still soaks in but I believe the joint would be worse cause less wood contact as long as you putting enough glue give it maybe 30 seconds to a minute to soak In a little then join the wood and you will have the strongest joint

[@ac311205]

Think of a table or panel glue up. There is no space for glue per se and that is as strong a joint as you can make. Stronger than the wood fiber itself. You do not need to account for space for glue. A glue groove to prevent squeeze out is a different thing.

[@acerjuglans383]

56 year old journeyman cabinetmaker here. If you own a tablesaw, you need a minimum of 2 blades, a ripping blade for cutting solid lumber the long way, and a crosscutting/melamine blade for crosscutting solid lumber or manmade materials. Ripping and crosscutting are inherently different operatuons. They require positive and negative hook angles, deeper or shallower gullets, different hardnesses of carbide teeth, fewer or more numbers of teeth......There's actual REASONS for the tools that you use folks. You want instant examples: try ripping 1-1/2" thick oak lumber with an 80 tooth melamine blade. You'll get instant resistance, you'll get burn marks, you'll get kickback. Please.....stop listening to influencers in 2025, educate yourself by talking to actual professionals. Nobidy said owning a tablesaw, or even doing woodworking, was supposed to be cheap and easy. If you have the main tool, get yourself the proper accessories.