Grafting Fruit Trees | Chip-Bud Grafting Fig Trees | The easiest grafting technique there is

Everything you need to know about the easiest and quickest bud grafting technique there is and that i use the most to graft most fruit trees using only a few buds from cuttings.
Almost every aspect of the chip-budding technique that is shown can be applied with success when grafting different fruit types with this easy budding technique.
Be sure to check my Tips and Points to Remember video to pick up the most important points and see some end results - • Grafting Fruit Trees |...
More information and discussion on this subject, in the following link:
www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-ho...
Music - Música
Intractable by Kevin MacLeod licenciada ao abrigo de creativecommons.org/licenses/...
Fonte: incompetech.com/music/royalty-...
Artista: incompetech.com/
and
Ether by Silent Partner

[@barryjanis]

Mr Sacadura, you are a Tree Surgeon, thanks for the excellent videos, excellent instruction . You are the best ! ! !

[@charleswilder2985]

You do it so quickly and smoothly, without even needing to set down the scion donor while you cut the root stock! So skillful! Thanks for the great demonstration!

[@nickgeorgie1957]

Mr. Sacadura. Your technique makes you the Michelangelo of the grafting. Thank you. I cannot stop watching you again and again in order to acquire your step by step procedure.

[@madelinkoh]

Me too. I am a big fan of Mr Sacadura. However can I do this for avocado plant as well. Tq. From Malaysia

[@yukselgunes4763]

Sizin kayıtlarınızı izledikten bu yıl aşıları daha cesurca yaptım. Çok teşekkür.

[@heatherlaw6162]

Dear Mr. Sacadura, Thank you I did a Violet DeBordeaux Fig Chip Bud graft on May 19 2023 and on June 18 2023 it took. I now have new leaf on the graft. I grafted it onto a Brown Turkey Fig. I have been watching your fig chip bud grafts over and over again. I am very new to this. Thank you again for your expertise. Phoenix Arizona

[@danielmusick211]

Excellent demonstrations. Thanks for the video. I'll be trying this technique myself.

[@josemiguelpereira8963]

Magnífico trabalho. Obrigado pela partilha!

[@mrnothing249]

Such a profound technique you have got there. Very good picture quality and Camera work + Editing work!

[@phuongduong6621]

Thanks i will tries this year 'you're good Teacher

[@patriciawrightlambert3982]

Great technic !!!! Clear and easy to follow. Thank you 😊

[@GourmetGaloreNET]

Great! Just Great! Thank you so much teacher.

[@pittilinster7526]

excellent technique and also the music just enjoyable

[@user-ud2oq6bv3h]

Я очень доволен. Большое спасибо. СУПЕР!

[@sr9253]

Thank you, these are very informative. I like the background music - it is relaxing and not annoying.

[@user-ud2oq6bv3h]

Спасибо большое. Мне очень понравился, как вы делаете. СУПЕР!

[@2brownbraids]

Beautifully done, thank you. i like how slim you can cut it and paste together, absolutely enjoyable to watch. thank you, thank you.

[@bennirvanacrystals9701]

Great video, thanks for showing us every stage of the process!!

[@JSacadura]

Thanks. I have a ton of footage of the development of these grafts. When i have the time i will try to select a few clips to show how some of these grafts developed in the months after they were made, and how they are now, when they enter dormancy (we can judge growth better, without the leaves)

[@soonzach4017]

Very interesting, thank you.

[@Coach_SebastianEckes]

Amazing nice and informative video.....thanks for sharing!

[@webergueraldo7470]

Congratulations. Great video. Thanks from Brazil.

[@agpawpaw5912]

Thanks for such detailed explanation

[@capybara6810]

Gold hands! Nice work, thanks!

[@kevinm8865]

Agreed! Very talented with a blade, and could pass for a hand model.

[@richardkhem494]

very good demonstration and thanks I will tray

[@TheShamwari]

Excellent video !

[@bijoyvasudevan1861]

Excellent, precision work👏👏

[@elatasho1315]

Nice video. Help me a lot. Thanks

[@upupandaway5646]

Thank you ,great work ,a true fig artist

[@JSacadura]

Thanks for the nice comment, Tony.

[@elhassaneelyamani7898]

Tres bon travail

[@matttk421]

He's a Ninja with that knife! :)

[@oppok7542]

Very nice . Thanks .

[@JBatsche]

Amazing video, thank you for your time and efforts.

[@vladislavgebe5803]

Thanks, good informations!

[@KeBuNTiNNairAINDONESIA]

thank you

[@Athabina]

what an excellent video on a great technique for grafting; may try that next year with Black Madeira graft on a vigorous rootstock

[@JSacadura]

Thanks for the comment, John. Try it and you won't be sorry. Its easy to master and only takes a bud for each graft, so we can use the full potential of those expensive cuttings. Also, we can take advantage of well established and vigorous rootstocks to graft slow growing varieties, that will start producing the following year.

[@Ammar15551]

Good work

[@bearstilwell1855]

Great video, just ran outside and tried this technique on one of my persimmon trees, grafted coffee cake onto chocolate tree guess I'll see if it's good in a couple weeks..... Thanks

[@JSacadura]

Thanks. I use this technique with success in other fruit types. Be sure to protect the graft against dehydration. Also, if it has lots of competition from other branches or other buds in the same branch, it might take and later dry out. If it takes, the other buds should be removed gradually.

[@agpawpaw5912]

How is your persimmon gratings?

[@mehmetduman8944]

Thanks.

Verry good teknik 👍☘️

[@tbcha1]

You make this look so easy. I can never get the sizes of scion bud and the cut on the main branch to the same size. Yours always look like a perfect snug fit!!!

[@JSacadura]

Start with the chip. Then cut the slot on the main branch using the size of the chip as a template. Try the fit adjusting the chip at the base of the slot tightly. If the slot is too small, enlarge the cut on the branch and try the fit again. Repeat if necessary. When i started i had to correct the slot cut size many times. With experience you will find the correct size at the first try more often. A warning - don't try to fit the chip too perfectly. The cambiums have to touch or cross at some point to be able to fuse. Check 'Chip-bud - part2' video for more tips.

[@chandra0102]

Find some scrap cuttings and practice, practice, practice. I have done it; you get the hang of it, after a few mistakes.

[@rosyjobya]

Hello JSacadura, this would be one of the best videos i have seen on KZbin and thoroughly enjoyed it and learned a whole lot from it. Two weeks ago i bought an Italian made Arti tec brand Grafting tool and two days ago i grafted 5 varieties on to four trees in pots. Wasen,t impressed with the blades that came with it as they were poorly ground in their sharpening. I wish i had seen your,e video prior to buying the tool. Anyhow this video made me feel good and i am confident i can do a much better job now. Thank You Very Much.

[@JSacadura]

Thanks. I also used a grafting tool when i started but soon replaced it with a grafting knife. Learning to use a very sharp grafting knife is very important and the clean cuts it can do are an important part of grafting success. I am going to make a short video on how i sharpen my grafting knife - its easy, takes only a few minutes and when the blade starts to get dull its key to return it to its best sharpness.

[@rosyjobya]

JSacadura Thank you for responding to my comment. You are a Master of Grafting Techniques and I love the fact that you never touch the buds. Cheers .

[@DanielVeillard]

I will have to say thanks again, since you pushed that video about bud grafting on green fresh wood I have applied that technique dozens of times on the old caprifig at my place and most graft seems to have taken, sometime extremely quickly e.g. we are June 9, I have a green bud graft done on 24 May who is starting to grow, fairly amazing ! In general it takes closer to a month to detect growth in the grafted bud but that's still very good. I also have the feeling that green bud are easier to graft (except for softness of tissues) possibly because on fresh new green buds the cambium layer is possibly thicker or more active... very impressive, thanks a lot ! Daniel

[@JSacadura]

You are welcome. Some grafted buds won't grow that season if they were undeveloped in the scion. The ones that are well developed start to grow in about a month as you saw . Green buds produce a quicker and stronger cambium layer but are not so easy to graft due to their softness, as you noticed. Nevertheless, they are much more delicate and can dry out, if not well protected until the vascular tissues are well established.

[@elatasho1315]

Hello Daniel. I am looking for caprifig to buy some seedlings. Are you selling?

[@thomasthurman2723]

@@JSacadura need your help on this one... Look... kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3KqhKOwo8qtgaM

[@thomasthurman2723]

@@JSacadura can I put them altogether, these 3 fig trees that all of a sudden grew in this Jade plant's soil?? This jade plant is native while fig trees are invasive. This Jade plant is 35 years old in a wine barrel... Should I air layer them separately? Or can I air layer them together... I made one of them things you made out of a butter container,.. I made it just like you showed it on you video.

[@JSacadura]

If you want to remove them and use the new plants, the best option for your situation is an air layer, but i would do it separately for each fig branch. If they are spontaneous, they must have grown from seeds that some bird left there, so beware, as the chances of that being a good eating fig variety are low.

[@Stdfam]

Thanks 👍 bro

[@krishnamanson1863]

Nice .

[@elzasilva4449]

Senhor suas mãos são abençoadas.

[@toufiksoulami2339]

جيد جدا شكرا لك

[@ChhatruFarming]

Nice

[@alexisdias7997]

wwwooaaauu tank you

[@mobilcar9031]

Good

[@c.rob2323]

I need to graft a mulberry tree but I have no idea into what tree. Help? Great videos, I learned a lot! Thanks!

[@Iloveorganicgardening]

Ross mentioned your channel...if you are Jamie from Portugal!

[@JSacadura]

Yes, i am. Ross is a great fig enthusiast and a wonderful guy. I like his videos very much.

[@chandra0102]

Those newly forming buds on the grafts just look beautiful, don't they?

[@JSacadura]

Yes they do. You wouldn't believe the number of photographs i take every year of young breaking buds.

[@carolday3381]

This is awesome, i have a question @JSacadura do you make the opening on the rootstock at a node? Or is it anywhere? I cannot quite tell but it looks like your in the area of a node and maybe making the chip incision just under the node? If anyone can clarify that would be great. Thank you. I should add when i was watching the patch bud technique it did not look like a node was present. So,.. is there a difference and or do i need to be near a node? Thank you

[@HienNguyen-dp3yv]

Excellent technique. I will definitely use to graft my fruit trees. One quick question with regards the aluminum foil wrap. Will it over heat the graft in the process. It is only April in South Texas, but the temperature can get up to 90 degree F. Is it too late for grafting? Thank you and please keep up the good work.

[@JSacadura]

On the contrary. The aluminium foil reflects the sunlight and prevent the bud from 'cooking' under the parafilm. It's not too late for grafting with this technique. You just have to protect the grafts from the sun. After 2 weeks i usually open the foil and if the buds are breaking the parafilm i open it laterally, so it still shades the bud, as an umbrella, for one more week or so.

[@canonlover6617]

Nice video. Thanks for sharing. Just a quick question. What is the best season/time to do this type of grafting? Thanks

[@JSacadura]

Hi. Please see the reply above, that i gave to the same question, asked by Angie Daniel.

[@canonlover6617]

Got it! Thank you so much.

[@jeronimochavezmaya3730]

Que injertos va mejor para ramas gruesas de higueras. Gracias anticipa

[@mirabilo]

This video would be better accompanied by the Bond theme or Pink Panther or Axle Foley. 😉

[@CCunha-dl9jq]

Excelente explicação e óptimo vídeo. Se me permite uma sugestão, era útil para mim que houvesse uma localização na estação do ano mais favorável a cada tipo de enxerto. Fico sempre com esta dúvida. Obrigado, mais uma vez.

[@JSacadura]

Neste vídeos mais antigos, nem sempre me lembrava de referir esse aspeto. Raramente acontece nos mais recentes. Quanto ao enxerto de chip em figueiras, não o mencionei porque funciona quase todo o ano, apesar da Primavera ser a melhor época.

[@dhay5719]

Great information... Thank you very much. One question though, how long can I keep the bud graft before grafting it on the rootstock?

[@JSacadura]

I don't know if i understand your question. After the chip-bud is cut you should graft it immediately and avoid contact with air and fingers. If you mean how long can you keep the scions (and the buds in good grafting condition)... If they are on last year dormant wood, i keep them in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator, wrapped in kitchen film, and they can last 3-4 months. The green scions should be grafted as soon as possible, after they are collected - they won't last more than a couple of days in good condition - although i have grafted successfully green scions, that were mailed to me, after 4 days.

[@dhay5719]

That is exactly what I meant. Thank you so very much for your extended comment! Awesome

[@GardenGrafting]

Very nice and good informative video with great knowledge . I got several answer from it . Sir what should be the cutting depth to separate the bud from the Scion ? I am from India and u sir

[@JSacadura]

You don't need to go very deep. Just enough to remove the bud with some wood attached that makes the chip solid enough to handle. I am located in Europe (Portugal).

[@clm8703]

Olá JSacadura! Em primeiro lugar deixe-me dizer-lhe que encontrei o seu canal, por acaso, há relativamente pouco tempo e gostei muito do conteúdo. Parabéns pelo seu magnífico trabalho! Relativamente à enxertia de figueiras, gostaria de saber se há vantagens na enxertia quando comparando com o método de multiplicação tradicional (por estaca). Gostaria de perguntar também se existem variedades que se apresentam como melhores porta enxertos? Existe alguma outra via pela qual possamos estabelecer contacto para esclarecer estas e outras questões? Abraço!

[@JSacadura]

Olá. Obrigado pelo incentivo. A possibilidade de enxertar várias variedades na mesma figueira (quando o espaço disponível é reduzido) é uma vantagem óbvia. Também existem variedades que são mais difíceis de enraizar ou mais raras e das quais, por vezes, só recebemos uma única estaca e a enxertia é mais segura (podem-se fazer vários enxertos com uma única estaca), como forma de não perder a variedade. Por outro lado, como refere, algumas variedades são mais vigorosas e podem por isso, servir de porta-enxerto para variedades de crescimento mais lento. Eu participo com alguma regularidade no forum foro.infojardin.com/forums/6-frutales.29/ . Se se registar aí, existe a possibilidade de comunicação mais direta. O meu username é o mesmo - jsacadura.

[@angiegarden8196]

Thanks for the video. What season is best to do this please?

[@JSacadura]

When using buds from dormant scions i prefer to graft in the spring when the rootstock is beginning to wake up (sap is beginning to circulate which helps in the fusion of the cambiums). But i have successfully grafted throughout the year, even in October, using buds from green semi-hardened wood. In this case these late grafts have to be well protected (using a couple of layers of parafilm for instance) during winter, and only wake up the next spring.

[@YOEPchannel]

Thanks. Very easy and simple grafting. Excellent. And the video very beutiful with sharp foreground and blur background. DOF. What camera do you use

[@JSacadura]

Hi. I am a photography enthusiast and i have several old Nikon lenses. When video become a feature in DSLR cameras, i bought an entry level camera with filming capability - the Nikon D5600. It works beautifully with my old lenses and i love the results. Most of that video was filmed with a NIKKOR 70-200mm F/2.8 lens , that i bought used, several years ago,, hence the sharp foreground and the blurred background. I specially love the bokeh of this lens against a plant background, so i tend to use it a lot, when doing close up work, like grafting.

[@MrChickadee]

Is the method good for Mulberry and Che fruit (from same family as fig)?

[@TanveerAhmad-wo4oj]

Yes, we can do this on, almost, all the fruit plants.

[@agpawpaw5912]

For some reason for scion grafting I have lower success with parafilm than with zipper bag. But for bud grafting probably this is the way. Have to try myself

[@Frankallen12]

Thanks so much! Great Chip Budding! What brand of Knife is that?

[@JSacadura]

I have the good fortune of having very good craftsman in our country (there's a small village in the north of Portugal, Trás-os-Montes region, village of Palaçoulo) which is famous for the knives they make and that sell them cheap. The one i'm using is The one i'm using in the video, it's also handmade by craftsman Gilberto Ferreira from Aveleda A similar one is old here - www.navalhasmirandesas.com/index.php/produtos/facas-gilberto-ferreira-aveleda/product/92-navalha-gilberto-ferreira-aveleda-de-enxertia-ref-ngfa011 Another website where these types of grafting knives are sold - www.navalhas.pt/ search word - enxertia

[@ghilesghiles3807]

@@JSacadura quel mois vous aviez greffer figue merci

[@gulabsingh4564]

Just one question.. How will the eye/bud sprout if you are covering the graft tape over it.???

[@lakevoda230]

I have used elastic tape for electric isolation. The graft started branching out. Few centimeters. I have question, when shuld i remove the tape, since it wont fall of by it self. Thank you for your answer.

[@JSacadura]

I wouldn't remove it until the graft is solid enough or it may break with wind, birds, etc. The tape won't disturb the growth of the graft for a couple of months and being elastic there is little chance of girdling the branch in such a short period of time. In a few weeks, if you are worried, support the graft (tying it to a support rod or something similar) then you can cut the tape.

[@jamestnguyen2165]

thanks for the video. I will try this. Does the spot to graft on the rootstock need to be a bud too?

[@JSacadura]

No it doesn't, James. I have grafted near the bud, on top of the bud, between buds, they all work. Check the various positions of the chip-buds on the Tips video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/qaqyfaaYp5mqqK8

[@krunoslavcicmir5166]

Hi, which of the graft technique would you suggest to use to get least noticeable graft? ( want to graft bonsai tree so it looks nice later on aka not really to obvious) Perfect videos! Thank you for sharing!

[@JSacadura]

In most of the grafting techniques the union points are almost undistinguished after a few years. The one that is the least noticeable is probably chip-budding. Beware that, if the compatibility between grafted varieties is not perfect (that usually occurs only between varieties of the same species), the union points tends to develop additional tissues, that form a noticeable bulk in the graft area. When grafting fruit trees this is usually not a problem (although you can have breaks from delayed incompatibility), but if you are going for the aesthetic angle in your grafting, that could pose a problem.

[@krunoslavcicmir5166]

@@JSacadura Thank you for your response! going to be fig tree in bonsai style just bigger so hoping it will be successful. Decided against grafting tools and will go with chip bud grafting :)

[@user-ne2he1kp6f]

❤️💛💚💙💜

[@karlblech8654]

Those Videos are so excellent, I am living in Portugal to. Is it possible to visit you. Thank you so much for your work. It is a great inspiration.

[@JSacadura]

Thanks for the comment, Karl. Sorry, visiting the orchard is not possible at this time.

[@karlblech8654]

@@JSacaduraThis is understandable, I mean maybe at a later date.

[@spandir]

Can we use Chip Budding on fig when they are Dormant ? Or go for Whip tonngue / Cleft graft instead when dormant ? Thanks

[@flouserve]

Olá, embora eu veja folhas nos galhos, em que mês você fez os enxertos? obrigada

[@spear4food636]

Great videos. The Parafilm on my T-budded plum tree has split all the way up after 2weeks or so, should I re-wrap the buds please? Regards Mark

[@JSacadura]

It depends on your local weather and the bud development. If the buds are starting to grow and the temperatures are very high, just keep them in semi-shade for a week or so (with an umbrella of aluminium foil), until they develop fully and can resist full sun. If they are still underdeveloped, you can re-wrap with parafilm so they don't dehydrate.

[@kevinm8865]

I have been watching your grafting videos. Very nice stuff! I plan to graft (apple, pear, nectarine, peach, and cherry) over the weekend or next week. Is chip budding a summer-only technique? Last freeze in my zone is about mid-may but several of my trees already have swollen buds (one has a couple flowers and another is fully bloomed). I don't want to do the whip-tongue or cleft grafting (they seem harder than chip) but will if chip isn't appropriate right now. Please help!

[@JSacadura]

Is chip budding a summer-only technique? Not at all. You just have to make sure the sap is already flowing in the rootstock. Otherwise the chip might dry out before it has a chance to heal as it doesn't have many reserves unlike a scion.

[@kevinm8865]

@@JSacadura Thanks!! Always good hearing from you.

[@imedimed8025]

Thank you for this video ..when (months ) can i doing this ? i live in northern algeria ..climate is like spain or italyI tried it at the beginning of this summer... unfortunately it did not work well ...

[@JSacadura]

The best season for this kind of graft is early spring. Summer in your zone is too hot and the chips will probably dry out before they have a chance to fuse the cambiums.

[@imedimed8025]

Thank you :)

[@franksavignano942]

Great videos,after getting scion wood out of fridge what is the best grafting method for stone fruit eg peaches ,grafting wood about pencil thickness and stock a bit thicker ,regards frank ,what is your first name .

[@JSacadura]

Hi, Frank. I would use whip and tongue or modified cleft graft for those situations. Regards, Jaime.

[@DanielVeillard]

Nice and informative video ! Where did you buy the Aglis Buddy Tape, seems unavailable from Europe, all I found was US distributors thogh that seems to be a japanese product !

[@JSacadura]

Thanks. Regarding the tape...I am lucky to have a good japanese friend that send me that tape. I probably shouldn't mentioned it as it appears to be still unavailable elsewhere. But it should be a matter of time. Meanwhile, Parafilm and other Buddy Tapes are more than enough, but i sure like that new material - much more pliable. I'm using it in lots of other grafts of fruit types to protect more delicate buds and scions.

[@DanielVeillard]

Okay thanks, I will chase them :-) I'm buying stuff in Japan I may find it there

[@antonio_joseperez_alonso7385]

It appears that kenogard sells the product (spanish information here www.kenogard.es/sites/default/files/FT_BuddyTape.pdf) Out of Spain perhaps you could send an email to the european representative www.buddytape.com/ Japan Concept Ltd. Bearl, Stocksfield Northumberland NE43 7AJ United Kingdom Tel: [phone] / Fax: [phone] E-mail: [e-mail]

[@DanielVeillard]

Ah cool! Weird I was in Barcelona Diputación street like 10 days ago, if I had known ... but that seems to really target the professionals ! I sent a mail to the UK rep but heard nothing back so far, I assume they are more looking for distributors not direct sales. I can get it from Japan via Buyee.jp, since I'm already ordering stuff there, I will add this to my orders :-) buyee.jp/rakuten/detail/eisei%3A10078246 thanks ! :-)

[@DanielVeillard]

Okay, FYI the UK rep replied to me, it's available in France for retail online at www.triangle-outillage.fr/greffage/621-buddy-tape-pre-decoupe-et-non-pre-decoupe.html it's a bit pricey but still cheaper than parafilm (that they do carry too)

[@chandra0102]

JSacadura: Excellent video on easy grafting technique. One question, does the scion bud need to be grafted on a host bud site or it can be grafted anywhere along the stem of the host? Thanks. Enjoy and learn a lot from your posts on "ourfigs".

[@JSacadura]

Hi. Thanks. I have been successful with grafting the chip anywhere along the branch of the host. Lately, i have a tendency to do it near the host bud as that's the location the vascular tissues were prepared to form a new branch, so i try to graft near that location.

[@chandra0102]

@@JSacadura Thanks for the response. Can't wait for the Spring to try my hand at grafting some figs.

[@franksavignano942]

Thank you for your reply ,2 do the m/ cleft graft ,how far down the stock I should cut down ,the root stock or (above ground level )is about the size of your middle finger ,tkx regards frank ps what part of year to do fig graft,

[@JSacadura]

As most grafts, I prefer to graft figs in the spring (when possible), around March-April. But you can graft later in the year, if you protect the graft well and avoid the excess sap from drowning the grafts (with a few shallow cuts below the graft point, as I show in some videos). I would cut where the rootstock has the right diameter for the type of graft used. When possible, I prefer to cut at knee height but, sometimes, we have to cut a bit higher than that. That's why the modified cleft graft is so useful - you can graft higher diameter rootstocks lower.

[@user-tr3ow4gs3q]

Hello. What is the reason for high pruning over a sprouting eye (kidney)? I usually cut at the same internode.

[@JSacadura]

I don't like to remove all the original growth before the graft has really taken off (sometimes the fig tree removes the sap from the branch and the graft dries out, if you cut too soon). I prefer to cut higher, let the graft show that has a good growth rate, and only then cut at the graft level.

[@richardsun2143]

Is there a particular grafting knife that you would recommend? I'm not a very skilled at making perfect cuts.

[@JSacadura]

Felco Vitorinox grafting knives are easy to find, not too expensive and, as they are only sharpened on one side, they are easier to use when trying to perfect your cuttings. They are my backup blades and are quite versatile.

[@jsnatividad7910]

Why did you make many cuts on the bottom of the greenish stem just below where you did the air layering?

[@julianler9907]

Hello, Thank you for the video. What should I do when the bud isn't growing after one month but it's still alive. Should I remove the aluminium foil and the parafilm or should I still let it there until the bud grows even if it's in the next year?

[@JSacadura]

With chip-budding you have to be patient. Sometimes, it stays dormant and only starts growing the following season. Also, there is a delicate balance with the rest of the branch, and you have to control the competition with other buds correctly, so your graft has a chance of growing. After the graft takes, you can remove the aluminium foil after a couple of weeks or immediately if it is already growing. I usually open it and left it protecting the bud from the sun, as an umbrella, for a bit more. If its growing, you can remove everything. If the weather is too hot in your area, be sure to remove the parafilm also, as it might act as a greenhouse and the bud might overheat.

[@julianler9907]

@@JSacadura Thank you for your answer. How can I see if the graft has taken?

[@AmoraAlmeida]

#Brazil 🇧🇷 Poderia me dizer se essa técnica vale para jabuticabeiras e cítricas? Obrigada pelo video!

[@JSacadura]

Para cítricos funciona bem, embora a técnica de t-budding seja mais usada porque protege melhor a gema da desidratação. Infelizmente não existem jabuticabeiras por aqui, por isso, não posso responder à sua pergunta, mas esta técnica funciona em muitos tipos diferentes de árvores de fruto. Já enxertei macieiras, pereiras, romãzeiras, figueiras, pistacheiros, pessegueiros, amendoeiras, nespereiras, ameixieiras e muitos outros tipos de fruteiras, com sucesso, desde que o chip seja bem protegido nas primeiras semanas.

[@jeronimochavezmaya3730]

Me gustaría saber que tipo de injertos va mejor en higueras grandes y adultas. Gracias por su atención. Saludos cordiales

[@JSacadura]

Para injertar en ramas adultas es mejor utilizar el injerto de chapa - kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZoesipuVpdd2ppo. En alternativa, podar las ramas de mayor diámetro y injertar ramas nuevas, en la época siguiente, a inglés - kzbin.info/www/bejne/mGO6cpp_YsafoKs

[@pdiscool]

Bon dia! I have a dormant cutting and a root stock that is already leafing out on my fig tree. Is the chip bud graft the only method i can do since the sap is flowing? Can i do a cleft graft at this point still?

[@JSacadura]

Hi, Jesse. You can try cleft, modified cleft, whip and tongue also, but be sure to make several shallow cuts below the graft point, to remove excessive sap, or the grafts will drown and fail. Also, be sure to cover your grafts well, or the sun will dry them out.

[@pdiscool]

JSacadura thank you! Be safe

[@chandra0102]

JSacadura, I don't see you labeling the newly grafted buds; how do you keep track of what varieties you grafted on which host?

[@JSacadura]

Every branch is labeled with a permanent marker very resistant to sun and water after i graft it. Then i take a photograph of each one and log it into a database i have on all my trees and grafts, so i can keep track of them. I am trying to find those aluminium tags that are available in the USA, so i can have a permanent label on location, but these aren't available over here and it would be too expensive to import them. I just have to find another alternative.

[@lalamomo3188]

My recommendation for you is to contact some forger(blacksmith) and order from them or online shop a tool to mark with a number and alphabet so u can make the nameplates yourself or a 3d printer, I just use a stick and wrap/insert it with/in transparent plastic(press it using press machine when needed) at last water can't get in

[@JSacadura]

Thanks for the tip. I tried hard labels plastified (pressed) but the strong UV we get here from the sun, has turn them brittle and they broke, in one season. The approach that lasted longer was writing in pencil on hard plastic sticks. Aluminium labels engraved would be the best, but they don't sell they over here. I only see them for sale in the USA.

[@smalltown89]

I didnt see this mentioned. How far into the bud/cambion layer do you cut the bud and the rootstock?

[@JSacadura]

It's just a shallow cut. The depth is determined by the width of the scion, so the cambiums layers adjust as best as possible.

[@smalltown89]

@@JSacadura Thank you

[@imedimed8025]

Chip-bud ? i dont think so ! ... the simple bud method is by far the easiest :) Thank you for this video

[@JSacadura]

We will just have to agree to disagree on that subject. :-)

[@georgeadams1955]

Thank you very much for the video from South Africa. Is your knife slightly blunt?

[@JSacadura]

Usually, i keep them quite sharp when i am grafting. I use Japanese sharpening stones for the job - kzbin.info/www/bejne/rmaXYoOAq5amrJI. But, with all the grafts (more than 100 for sure) i did the day i filmed that video, i suppose the sharpness could be a bit off. It still did a good job, though.

[@georgeadams1955]

@@JSacadura only tongue-in-cheek, not criticism. Greatest respect for your capabilities. Thanks again.

[@JSacadura]

Eh, eh, eh. I really couldn't tell from your comment (a smiley face would have helped). And i'm used to people criticizing and nitpicking everything they see so, when in doubt, i tend to respond seriously. And i take the sharpness of my grafting knives very seriously, as that is much more important to good grafting results than people think. Thanks for your comment.

[@amalsaad7693]

Is that apply to the fig trees only,or I could use it with my permission tree? Thank you

[@marilynlaguiwed1983]

why is it you covered it with aluminum foil instead of polyethylene cellophane. If you perform it in shaded area is it necessary to cover that of aluminum foil tnx

[@JSacadura]

To avoid a "greenhouse effect" that can dry out the bud excessively, making the graft fail. In complete shade the aluminium foil is not needed.

[@GardenGrafting]

Sir Is chip budding useful in mango ?

[@aneeshkunnikrishnan7711]

I got few questions to ask Can chip bud grafting be done on5 to 10 years old branch Can we use grafting stretchable, waterproof,flexible,self adhesive plastic tape instead of parafilm tape Do we need to do shallow cuts below the graft point for every chip bud grafting we do I have heard that chip bud grafting method yields fruits faster than other grafting methods like bark grafting, whip and tongue, cleft grafting is it true Please do some video on chip bud grafting/cleft grafting on mango and jackfruit

[@JSacadura]

1. The older the branch, the less likely the chip-bud grafting will take. 2. Yes, but only in the graft area. Don't cover the buds with the plastic tape. 3. Only if the sap is in full flow. Earlier in the season the shallow cuts are not needed. 4. I haven't noticed that clearly, although it depends on fruit type. I can say that with other techniques (besides chip-bud grafting) the plants tend to grow quicker (as the grafts don't have a period where they are competing with other buds in the same branch. Thanks for the video suggestions. Unfortunately, I can't grow those types of fruit trees in my area.

[@lorenzplato606]

Buenas amigo, si uno injerta un higo comun en uno que no es commun, dara fruto? Gracias mi amigo, es que tengo uno que no es comun y no lo sabia, y aqui no tengo la abeja para polen. Muchas gracias de antemano.

[@JSacadura]

Si, dara fruto. Se puede injertar una higuera borde o cabrahigo con un higo comum. También se puede injertar una higuera Esmirna (que necesita ser polinizada por la avispilla del higo) con un higo comum. Este video tiene más informaciones sobre los diferentes tipos de higueras y la avispilla que las poliniza - kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZTXenmhi8aNh9U

[@thegrindizreal4401]

Wonderful demonstrations on chip budding. What is the name of the black bands that you use one your fig trees? I have seen it before in the US on a fig plant that I recieved, but don't know what it is called or where to obtain it. The guy that sent me the plant used it on a cleft graft, instead of using a rubber band.

[@JSacadura]

Black Bands? If you are referring to the black string i am using to support some branches (min. 17.05 or 24.08) its a simple rubber string sold commonly in agricultural stores over here. It doesn't even have a brand. Let me know if its not that, you were asking about.

[@thegrindizreal4401]

Yes, so it is rubber string. I did Google searches for it using several key words and can not find anything except rubber bands and small rubber strips for grafting. Nothing with any lenght to it though. I use twine to support branches, but I thind rubber would be much better. The green ones that you use look much thicker. Are they called something else?

[@JSacadura]

No. The green ones are also a rubber material (a bit thicker but hollow), sold in bulk, without any brand. Both are widely used by commercial and casual farmers to tie plants (used in vineyards and orchards, mostly) and are available in agricultural retail stores. An example of one of the local manufacturers - www.santoemonteiro.pt/. Its called Fio de Empa ou 'Fio Macarrão" - Tying string or Spaghetti string. On the other end, its quite difficult to find rubber bands and rubber strips for grafting, over here, as natural raffia is still the most common option.

[@thegrindizreal4401]

Thanks for the information. I searched the words that you use to describe these items and the only thing that I can find is elastic shock cord used to make bungees, which are used to tie down tarps and frieght that you haul in a vehicle. It comes in 3/8, 1/4, 7/16, 1/2 inch. It is very expensive. $50 for 50 feet. I looked at the site that you referenced. That would be wonderful to have, as I know it would be much better for plants than twine.

[@JSacadura]

As i said they are mainly used as an inexpensive way of tying plants to the wires in vineyards. It's probably not what is used in other countries (special pliers with plastic tape are more common - like these ones - "Plant Branch Hand Tying Binding Machine", so it will be very difficult to find these items, if there is no demand. Its a lot better than twine, for sure.

[@achurambabu6694]

Should the bud also be covered with budding tape to prevent water from entering

[@JSacadura]

When using Parafilm you can cover the bud with confidence (and keep water out and avoid bud dehydration). With plastic grafting tapes, you can cover it for a couple of weeks, but will have to cut the tape for the bud to grow (which is not needed when using parafilm).

[@migod333]

Qual a melhor altura do ano para fazer este tipo de enxertos? Obrigado

[@JSacadura]

Com a maioria das técnicas utilizadas, nesta zona, a melhor altura é o início da Primavera. As plantas estão a começar a movimentar seiva, a temperatura é ideal e os enxertos pegam em pouco tempo.

[@serraaurelien4999]

in the video some of the grafting are done in the summer. Is the scion cut just before acting like for a bud graft in summer ? Or can we use scion stored for a couple of months in the fridge for example. I have plenty of scions unused in the fridge because I was unable to graft earlier this year (using whip and tongue) and would like to know whether a I can make chips with them this summer. Many thanks

[@JSacadura]

Yes, you can use scions stored in the fridge for several months as long as they are still in good condition. Check this video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZ-Wd6mCoJejoJI The fig grafts, in the last part of the video, were done with scions stored for 4 months and they still worked. Chips will also work, but the grafts will only develop in the following spring.

[@serraaurelien4999]

@@JSacadura Thank you so much for your answer that's a good news. Is it also right for other fruit trees ? I have currently apricots, prunes and apples in this case. Thank you so much for all your movies and knowledge sharing

[@JSacadura]

Some scions will resist better than others to prolonged storage. Peach scions, for instance, are usually not viable after a couple of months in cold storage, but apricots, prunes and apples can stay in good condition for a longer period.

[@glennsellers5076]

Does this method work for persimmons and pawpaws?