Growatt MIC 3000TL GridTie Install - Signature Solar

[@usramx]

In the EU I have the same inverter and it has 2 string connectivity so 4 solar inlets. I see that when you scroll through the menu you only have pv1 showing. Do note if you connect them in series if you have shade that will hugely impact your output.

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

You must have a larger model or maybe the newer models are coming with dual PV inputs mine only has one. I have hooked up the second in the series and actually and producing more than I had anticipated as at the end of the day when my main array is starting to get shaded the secondary one is not so it actually runs later into the night producing. Kind of a weird phenomenon I know

[@MotoRiff77]

I bought one year ago SS had no idea how to hook it up, I did it like you did with double pole breaker running it 220 w/ ground only got green light but it was a dud sent it back. They wanted to give me a used replacement for warranty with no reduce $. I really wished it would have worked, being able to run your panels in series was what I wanted to do

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

Sorry to hear you had a bad experience I'll be honest I should have replaced my cheap ones a long time ago and got one of these mine has been flawless

[@MotoRiff77]

@@thefrugalhomestead7873yea, it was such a bad experience I ended up buying the cheap one again, I get about 1 to 2 years out of them. I would love to get the 1 you have but IDK

[@ShortyzProductionz]

So this unit does do split phase for the USA? I was a tad confused by their labeling.

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

The simple way to be explained is use a 220 breaker that way you get one leg on each side of the box

[@vincefleck2263]

Great Video, I'm looking at installing the US model as well, to verify you connected to AC with 240 Double pole breaker, connectors 1(L1), N(L2) Ground (goes to the bus bar?)

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

That is correct for my unit but it's always good if you're going to order one to ask them for the diagram when you order it just to be sure. I'm being told that they're supposed to be coming out with a four plug model

[@RB_TradingLtd]

Great vid man I hooked mine up plug and play style and all it did was sent all power straight to the grid and my grid meter actually ticked up 😮 Then I connected to my pool pump which seemed to work. Any ideas why my house refuses to pull from the inverter when it’s connected straight into my housing ringmain.

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

You may not have had enough power to offset the amount you were using. New meters don't necessarily run backwards all the time they say delivered or received it switches back and forth as when you're using the grid or you're offset in enough to cover your whole usage. The fact that you say you have a pool pump is enough to tell me you probably are not creating enough wattage to overcome what you're using. I would say go look at what your meter says it's doing when you're running a bunch of power whether it says received or delivered. Then on a sunny day turn off every single breaker except the one you're grid ties hook to. Then I bet it'll change but the way it looks with the bars it looks like it's still going up but in fact it's not going anywhere. Remember smart meters aren't really smart. All they do is send your usage over wireless or Bluetooth to make it easier so people don't actually have to manually come read your meter they do nothing else.

[@RB_TradingLtd]

@@thefrugalhomestead7873 maybe i over complicated my question as yes i your right. What I mean is when plugged into the pool area plug and play style it uses the power ok from Panels. When plugged into the house it sends all power from panels to the grid and the grid meter actually ticks up 😂. Example house total use per day average 40kwh. With solar plugged to pool area 28kwh pulled. With solar plugged into the house 52kwh pulled. Like my solar is being sent to grid and actually charged I’ll have to contact my electricity board I think.

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

@@RB_TradingLtd No I figured out your problem you do realize there's two sides to your box One side is obviously pulling more electric than the other so in other words you need two grid ties one hook to each side of your box if you're using the plug and play style. So it is going back to the grid but you're not getting charged for it Let's say you're using 40 kilowatt hours The plugs on one side of your box are using five kilowatt hours The plugs on the other side of your box are using 35 if your grid tie is not plugged into the side with 35 then you're just going to give the rest of the power back to the power company for free they are not going to charge you more. If you have it hooked to the side with 35 you will offset more Does that make sense when I had the old plug and play type I had two of them hooked a panels on one side of my box and then had two of them hooked a panels on the other side My new grits high featured in this video hooks to both sides via a 220 breaker so the power is split between the two equally which still may create a situation like you're talking about but people talk about it but nobody has ever shown me proof that grid tie can get you charged more .

[@jeffreyvictor3678]

Do you have the AC output from the inverter tied directly into (what used to be) the outlet using L1 (black wire) as 120v, L2 (the white wire) as 120v and the bare or green wire as ground, the wire that into the double breaker as black L1, white L2 and green ground? And is that your PV lines going through the wall to your panels? I plan to wire my inverter right next to the panel in the garage so I will wire it directly into the double breaker in the box. Is this how you have to wire it for 240v?

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

The wires coming through the wall are from PV but I only use one set now The rest are from the old setup. Everything is wired and series so I only have one wire to deal with. The AC output now goes directly to my box. I have it hooked to a double pole breaker. That way you're feeding both sides of your box. I want to say at this point I do have a breaker between my PV and my grid tie And there is some talk that you should have a breaker between the grids tie and your box. Much like a generator does. I do not have one but if I'm giving advice I'd say it's worth putting in.

[@jeffreyvictor3678]

Sir…so the inverter is tied into your main panel box and NOT a sub-panel box or critical load panel? I will use a double pole 40A breaker in my main panel and another breaker on the wall before the main panel. Ty for that advice.

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

@@jeffreyvictor3678 yep

[@jeffreyvictor3678]

Ty again for a quick reply!! I can do that!!

[@jl9678]

Hi thanks for making this video. I like the growatt grid tie inverters. Can you please post a link to those fans you had under the old inverters? Thanks

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

amzn.to/4baKEkv

[@jl9678]

Thank you so much! I have a min 11.4 xh us and when it's maxed out it gets hot. These fans will help a lot. Btw, if you don't have solar assistant I would highly recommend it

[@han405]

Hi! I was wondering, regarding to the AC output, does it have a L1, L2, N and PE or just L, N and PE? basically, is it 240VAC single phase or split phase? Thank you!

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

Depends on which model you get. Mine just had three connections

[@D1g1tal_H1ppy]

I bought the same unit and it arrived recently, i think i bought from signature solar also. did you have followups?

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

I did a follow up video adding more panels

[@Adrayven]

Suggestion, I know it costs more, but with 2 strings in 2 locations, you could get the Tigo TS4-A-O Optimizer.. It will manage the issue of panels in different locations. They specifically call out this as part of it's use case.. The nice thing about the TS4-A-O, if all you need is optimization (not rapid shutoff) they optimize without all the extra CCA controller or TAP.. Just plug them in and go.. Thats how I use them.. Also, technically, you could mini-series up to 2 panels per TS4-A-O, since it goes up to 80V per TS4-A-O, so as long as your 240w panels don't go over ~70w it should be fine to double up. I do it with 200w panels with 28v VOC and works well. Signature Solar seems to have a competitive price on the TS4-A-O.

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

Not a bad idea if have to look at voltage/wattage lots as these are gcl 285 panels. We currently have the second string put in the series currently doing the testing but if we have losses due to shading this will probably be the solution thank you

[@thelpw2608]

You would not be "giving" power back to the grid if they pay you credits for whatever you push back to the grid. That in effect lowers your power bill. And, I think most inverters and solar panels produce power when they are called upon, meaning if you are using power then the panels and inverter is producing. If you're not using power, then it kind of takes a rest. If you are pushing to the grid, you are then working your solar system to get all the day's production to work (either used in the home, or pushed to the grid). I dont know if the Growatt inverter will sit and produce power if you're not asking for it (your homes load). IF not, then you're missing out on the solar panels producing all they can in a given day of sunshine. Hope this makes sense.

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

I think you misunderstand how grid tied power works. They create things called limiters to stop pushing the extra power back and put the grid tie and panels and sleep mode like you're talking about. But energy flows so when we are not utilizing what the panels make then it does flow back in the system. But we buy electricity for 13 cents a kilowatt hour you get paid $0.03 but there's a fee for being grid Tied and there's a fee for a net metering meter. As well as many other taxes. So essentially I would need an array four times my current size and four grid ties as well as pay thousands of dollars to have it all installed by electrician pull permits etc just to break even. Currently this system holds our electric bill down very well in the summer in the winter when there isn't snow on them it does a good job of helping. That I mention that with our electric company credits expire.... Yeah we are content with our current setup until we go off-grid. 👍

[@steliospapoutsakis4264]

hi, I am considering buying the Growatt MIC 3300TL-X model, connecting it to a regular AC plug and also with some solar panels here in Greece. what I need to confirm though is if I can configure it to be zero export/feed. in other words I don't want to send any power to the public grid. is that possible do you think? thanks

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

There are ways but you would have to ask where you're buying it from what they suggest what you're looking for is a limiter. I'm not sure why you were worried about the extra power back feeding . That said you're in another country so you may have different issues with electric company

[@steliospapoutsakis4264]

@@thefrugalhomestead7873 yeah, the power meters in our country are like 800 years old so it is not permitted to send power back to the public grid without perimitions (which are not easy to obtain cause they mean you sell energy and so on....)

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

@@steliospapoutsakis4264 I wish we had old meters The old meters spin backwards when you put power back into the grid That's why they don't want you doing it it will actually lower your electric bill

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

@@steliospapoutsakis4264 remember power flows over wire amperage etc it has nothing to do with the meter.

[@steliospapoutsakis4264]

@@thefrugalhomestead7873 they also say that if someone works on a power pillar they'll probably get shocked to death since they won't know power is flowing backwards from my house

[@jimthvac100]

How much solar do you use at your homestead?

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

So we have 10 285 watt panels or 2850 watts possibly. I doubt we ever get over 2500 in best day possible. But this system saves us $20 to $25 in winter per month on electric bill and $50 to $60 a month in summer. So $35 to 40 is monthly average off electric bill year round. That said our system is self-installed we only have $1,600 in it. So the payoff on the system would be less than 4 years. Now it is true that at times we are pumping electric back into the grid for free. And my year round numbers could be higher if I went out and clean the snow off the panels every time it snowed. But I'm content to allow mother nature to do what it does.

[@fullyelectric]

@TheFrugalHouse I know this video is like 8 months old however the reason why your AC out did not work the first time is because you where trying to get a split phase 240v L1+L2 on a 120v outlet lines, using a dual pole breaker 240v for L1+L2 is the only way for it to work within the US .. the EU version just have one hot leg at 240v + N+G .. the North American version has two hot legs L1+L2+N+G, so even though your meter will show 120v between one hot leg and N or G you need both phase going back to a double pole breaker for proper safe installation, great content tho.

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

Yep that's why I said everybody needs to use a double pole breaker direct to box to correctly install it. 👌

[@fullyelectric]

@@thefrugalhomestead7873 nice 👍.. have you done a 6 months review as of yet? Like to know how you are enjoying it and if any plans to get the higher capacity models like the 7 or 11k ?

[@garyhiland6013]

@@thefrugalhomestead7873 I really appreciate this whole inverter saga. I get the double pole breaker bit but I'm wondering about the amp rating. Should it be 40 to cover all the watts it'll ever see or something different for some reason I don't yet have knowledge of. Thanks in advance!

[@charliewill4509]

Hi i am looking at this as well id like to get the Growatt 6kW Grid-Tie Inverter | MIN 6000TL-X and the Tigo TS4-A-O Optimizer | Rapid Shutdown i don't believe that this unit can support the rapid shutdown, but will the volt limiter still work on this bring it down to 1 volt per panel? if i got one unit or do i have to add that unit on each panel? next when you did your system, what did you have to do for permits if anything ? net metering sucks here, they only give out .038 per KWH so not sure its even worth that crap to go get the interconnection with the power company done as it take around 400.00 for inspections and the solar array inspection. what are your thought? i currently use the setup like you where i have 3 GTI 1300watt and they just plug into the 110v AC receptacles so i have them split on different breaker runs. my big concern is if i go with your do i need to get the inspections or just wire it into my garage like you did and tie it into my sub panel with a DBL Pull 40am breaker? thank you.

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

I don't know why you need the rapid shut down... I didn't go through any permitting process and I know people from Puerto Rico all the way to Washington State Texas and more running these units that are not net metered you just build your system enough to offset and let the rest back flow. You're going to hear a lot of people talk about all they're going to charge you more or you're going to get caught cuz smart meters do this or do that they don't. The only thing smart about a smart meter is they can read your meter from farther away rather than having to manually walk to it it saves man power for them. Now when you net meter they put a different meter in. But yes it's not worth it for permitting As far as the breaker it needs to match what your maximum output can be

[@charliewill4509]

Hi, i just received my Breaker the same one you purchased. one question the MC4 connectors prior to connecting them to my breaker i tested the main PV array and im getting 500V with my volt meter, with the positive connected to the positive on the VM then the Neg to neg of the VM its fine. when i connect the power from the Array to the breaker, turn the breker power on and do the same Neg to Neg Pos to Pos i am getting Neg -500v not the positive if i put the positive lead of the volt meter on to the negative lead of the PV breaker then test its showing correct polarity when its not. did you run into that?

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

@@charliewill4509 there's a lot to go recheck there. You could have your leads plugged in backwards into your meter you could have it on a backward setting. I would say keep going through and checking to make sure you have everything in the correct order wired correctly before hooking anything up. Cuz something definitely sounds wrong

[@unklvictor]

Did you ever get dongle to work ?

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

Nope but I haven't put a lot of effort into it though lol The screen tells me everything I need to know

[@unklvictor]

I never could get mine to work also

[@dalv086]

can i install on this one 2 strings x 3 solar panels each (575w). does it have 2mppts there? I know P in Max is 2100w /string I think..., is that correct please?

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

The max is based on which unit you buy there are multiple. This unit you can only attach one string you can put your two strings in series as one as long as the wattage is below the limit That's what I did

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

Might want to check out my second video where I add a second string to the original system

[@dalv086]

@@thefrugalhomestead7873 what's the maximum limit for this model you are using, please? I have in mind to get the same one...

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

@@dalv086 I would probably stay away from these upper limits and if you feel you're close to them you should get a bigger model but here is the specs from there website Max. input power DC4200 W Output phasesSingle phase Degree of protection (IP)IP65 Number of independent MPPT inputs1 Max. input voltage DC550 V Max. input current DC per MPP tracker16 A Max. input current DC per string input13 A Max. efficiency97.6 %

[@victorreece9256]

what happens when the grid goes down

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

It shuts down. It cannot function without sensing power from the grid. This is a feature to keep lineman safe as they repair the lines.

[@victorreece9256]

@@thefrugalhomestead7873 so you have no power.

[@victorreece9256]

can you make a micro grid with another string invertor and no grid power.

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

@@victorreece9256 I suppose you could

[@victorreece9256]

@@thefrugalhomestead7873 yea

[@offgridwanabe]

Too bad that model doesn't have a CT clamp to control the output as some utilities charge for both ways as the meter doesn't know the difference.

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

Some do charge in that manner. Luckily mine doesn't. And I think a lot of them will stop doing that as time goes on because they're getting free generation. I would like the clamp and then be able to redirect to a battery but it's really not worth it on the scale I'm doing.

[@rickymartin06]

you can buy a meter that limits export to grid

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

@@rickymartin06 Love it if you could provide us links Love to look into that

[@jackehli621]

Why did I click on this???????????????????

[@thefrugalhomestead7873]

Not sure sorry it was not what you had hoped