Hammer Time! Reduce hole size - Part 2of2 (Hammertime)

[@ChrisCanuk]

Hey Kalle, maybe I missed it on your channel but how about a video on polishing pivots. Would love to learn how you do that.

[@vintagewatchesrepaired]

I reference this video all the time! Such a common repair, thank you!

[@MrRoundel]

Great video. Thanks, Kalle! I finally got to watch the much celebrated "hammer-time" stream. Not having done this before, I'm going to go back to a number of stopping movements I have and see if play at the barrel arbor.

[@jimmy2boats]

your hole closing techniques have been extremely useful to me, using these methods on barrels as well as the plates or bushings has improved my repairs.

[@watchrepairworld1203]

Excellent job ❤❤❤

[@smitmachinale8281]

By tapping the brass plate and then making the hole a bit wider with the smoothing broach will cause the brass getting a bit harder and I think therefore the wear would be less then with the original state of the hole. Maybe it's only a tiny bit less.

[@Ared947]

Hammer Time has just kept a 1954 Bulova 10 BT 100% original.Thank You, Kalle.

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Excellent result Jim!!!

[@toniiommi81]

Thanks for that great tutorial. Much appreciated.

[@joshneill7695]

Kalle, you are So Good at explaining and every upload is interesting. I am learning so much from you and despite English being your second language, you hold my interest with your humour and the way you explain things far more than I have come to expect from teachers. Thank you.. 🍻

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

You make me blush Tony, LOL

[@joshneill7695]

@@ChronoglideWatchmaking It's true! 👍

[@alexbruschi9929]

Thanks so much Kalle! Working on my father's Rolex caliber 1030 had same issue with loose barrel arbour plate.... worked perfectly! Enjoy your videos hope you finish the one on the 1030 Alessandro

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Great to hear that it has worked for you Alessandro!

[@mariofonseca9072]

Hello Kalle!! Tks a lot for the video!! If possible, could you clarify a little bit more about the slight adjustment you did in order the hole stay in the middle? Minute 1:50. Did you manualy creat a wear in opposite direction to the original wear?

[@itzhaccroitoru4082]

A great 2 part series! Thank you

[@fabriziobuffoni4862]

Good evening Kalle. I apologize to write here. I remember a video where you were using the same method to fix a barrel lid....but I cannot find it anymore. Could you please so nice to tell me were it was and if it is still online, many thanks in advance. Fabrizio

[@Donnybrook10]

fantastic episode. Thank You Kalle. You're an excellent teacher. I didn't know I could do so many operations with my staking set.

[@peterhawley6273]

Very good video once again 👍👍

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Thank you Peter! We are working very hard on much more interesting content.

[@kazsmith8422]

Hi Kalle, i think people will be learning more from this channel than going to collage....

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

I truely hope so Kaz, I have seen some outdated/substandard schools.

[@Watcheyes]

In my latest video a viewer saw that my Certina 321 had to much play in the arbor hole, he said I should watch this and this was great! Will do this next time, great instruction!

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Thank you Watcheyes!

[@CraftedFractal]

Truly masterful work! Such an excellent demonstration! I learned so much!

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

So nice to hear! Thank you

[@NaNByZero]

I love this channel! 🕐⚙️🍸

[@billietam6571]

You are marvelous sir.

[@orchardwatchandclockrepair8346]

Lovley. Work. Very good

[@franka9760]

Thanks very much for the demonstration of this restoration technique. Keep it original! One of your best videos.👏

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Very nice to hear Frank, cheers!

[@watchtock8818]

I am really glad I found your channel. Very informative. Excellent.

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

My pleasure!!

[@wildernessofzinn17]

Kalle...this is just the episode I needed because I want to do this. But, may I ask, when performing this technique, should the hole in the domed punch be visible through the arbor hole in the plate?.

[@TorteTS]

Great explanation, thank you. Due to the tapered shape of the smoothing broach, are you pushing the material from both sides of the hole to get a cylindrical shape?

[@boydsargeant7496]

A great 2 part series! Great to know how to do. Do you know how to do without an expensive staking set? They are reaaallly expensive!

[@MyRetroWatches]

Very good tutorial sir.

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Thank you!

[@boydsargeant7496]

Thanks again Kalle, I did my first hammer time today on an old Oris 471 for practice. I bought an old small staking set. It doesn’t have the stake for the bottom, so I flipped the bridge and plate over and did the other side. My existing broaches were the right size! Thanks. Any chance on a full cannon pinion video, adjusting to get the right interference fit and tools to adjust, take off and put back on etc. Cheers.

[@ramoneramlingam3723]

Thanks again for the expert explanation and advice

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Thank you for your support Ramone!

[@sirbc]

Do both of the round face stakes need to be the same size? Seems like most would only have one set of stakes so one of the stakes would need to be slightly larger, no?

[@vlad4281]

Hi Kalle, thank you for this valuable video. I have a question - could I use the same technique on an Omega 550-1465 "Automatic Rachet Wheel Mounted" which has a square hole ? I am getting some play where it sits on the square end of he barrel arbor to the point that on the flat side of the wheel there are circular wear marks ? The barrell arbor has no play in the plate hole.

[@Greekwindsurfer]

I have a question. When its a hole of a thrird wheel and it's conical in shape we use differrent sets?

[@roryvonbrutt7302]

fascinating as always‼️®™️ ☑️☑️

[@petercampbell3828]

Excellent tutorial. I've seen jewels placed to correct this problem, but this is a better solution if working on a valuable watch. I need more tools!

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Always more tools! LOL

[@kingsford73]

Now that 2 part video was awesome very informative, more tools for me to save up for 😆

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

TOOLS, MORE TOOLS!!!

[@trimwus]

Very nice tutorial, thanks.

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Good to hear Trim, Thnx!

[@ernestocamero6403]

Wouldn't jeweling the plate be a better option to fix this problem indefinitely while also providing slightly increased amplitude? Seiko 6139 chronographs and many other models suffer from worn upper/lower arbor plates and jeweling these provide superior results. Thank you for the great information!.

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Hi Ernesto, thank you for your comment. It is possible but most clients here like to keep the movement original. Their decision.

[@blenny47]

Sorry there is no live show tonight Kalle

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

So good to see you at all the live streams!

[@thefosterfam]

Kalle, this is a great instructional video which I am sure will be knowledge that I am able to use in the future. For the moment I have a similar issue with the center wheel on a pocket watch where the small pinion gear has come loose and spins freely, would this same technique be used in my situation? Thanks

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

It is certainly worth a try. A regularly used motto in our workshop is: ”the part is already broken, if it doesn’t work it still will be broken”. 😇 Good luck! 🍀

[@mercuriall2810]

Are you having an issue with excessive sideshake of the centre wheel pivot in its hole? Or has the pinion come loose from the arbour of the wheel? In the first case, hammer time is appropriate to close the pivot hole. If it is the latter, pinions are made of hardened steel, in older watches almost glass hard and they are brittle. Trying to close the hole in the pinion on the staking set is likely to break the pinion. Instead you need to re-rivet the pinion back onto the wheel. This is the correct way to do it and it shouldn’t be difficult. Install the pinion back on the arbour and use a hollow tipped stake that fits over the pivot to rivet the pinion back in place.

[@alpenjon]

Excellent explanation! One big question though: If the opening is eccentric and you follow these instructions, isn't the newly drilled hole also eccentric? How do you account for that?

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Excellent question! I use a round diamond grit file to make the hole a tiny bit bigger, but central, by removing material on one side (if needed of course)

[@rajshah7918]

Yes. I enjoyed watching but it needs years of experience and devotion. Excellent.

[@jfcairnx]

That was great! Really helpful and really essential for vintage watches. My question is, how often do you find similar wear in the bottom barrel arbor bushing? Is this less common b/c the mainplate is thicker than the barrel bridge?

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Every watch wears different due to use and maintenance. you have to check evey single time if it's okay. Thnx for your support!

[@juaquimgustavo4712]

You know the answer. Its in the quality of the watch, some, for example, have jewls, others just a thinny shapped piece of metal..

[@klinej54]

Guess I need to buy some larger smoothing broaches. New toys!

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Almost Xmas! ;o)

[@pemhoman1754]

Do you have to shrink the hole on the other side of the arbor too?

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Only if needed, if the play is too big.

[@RadioWhisperer]

A great tutorial on an important topic, thank you! For future videos i would love to see one on repairing end shake, and perhaps one on replacing press fit jewels.

[@ronitroy9727]

Amazing

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Thnx Roy!

[@fabriziobuffoni4862]

Thanks a lot for showing us this restoration tecnique. I appreciated a lot. It make sense to me. One question: for what kind of material this tecnique is good ? Is it good also if a bridge is made of steel? Thanks Fabrizio

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

We use it mostly on nickelplated brass, but steel is possible too.

[@juaquimgustavo4712]

Just Dont try it in rubis...

[@umcrecservices]

Why not use a mechanism to keep the reaming a perfect 90 degree angle? Oh, also, love your vids. Thanks for the hard work.

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

You can use a jeweling tool for that, i like to do it by hand so you feel the friction you apply. Thnx Mark!

[@hiranosoranouta9223]

In this video, did you remove material first? Did you use the reamer?

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Just the smoothing broach Hirano, not the reamer.

[@hiranosoranouta9223]

@@ChronoglideWatchmaking - you mentioned that sometimes you have to remove material because the "center" of the hole moves to one side. What do you use to do this accurately?

[@fabriziobuffoni4862]

Good evening Kalle. I make an additional comment as I am passing from theory to practice. I am working on a Seiko movement 6119 that has a lot of play on the barrel arbors. The superior one is solvable exactly as in your video. But it's on the lower one where I am a little puzzled. I have a "perfect" oval hole. So I believe that hammering straight away could not be the solution. Am I right? Should I try to make it round first, removing precious material? Thanks for your suggestion

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Fabrizio, good to hear from you. The Seiko 6119 bridge is very thin, so it's probably not the best solution to hammer this hole back to it's original size. There is simply not enough material to work with. Replacement is probably the best option because it's a Seiko. An alternative is to file the hole perfectly round way to big (and keeping the original center!!), place a blanc piece of metal and drill a new center just to small and make it the correct size by hand with a broach. In this case not easiest / cost effective solution. May the force be with you!

[@petergreenwald9639]

I'm not sure if I truly want to pursue this at the age of 65, although I need a retirement hobby. But buying these vintage tools off Ebay might be my retirement addiction. Kalle may be a drug (tool) dealer in the guise of a watchmaker.

[@juaquimgustavo4712]

To make it more perfect I would put a bearing on it...

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

Good solution!

[@richardtreem1992]

Could you have reamed a bigger hole, and jeweled it? I realize it would no longer be original but would prevent it from happening again.

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

That is an excellent solution as long as the original middle of the hole still is in it's place.

[@johnrogers2253]

Kalle this looked very dangerous... we think you live dangerously with the hammer. Then you said. Tap Tap Tap.... got it....🤓

[@ChronoglideWatchmaking]

LOL ;o)