Mazda 6 and Ford Fusion Front Control Arm Replacement How To - First Generation

[@boblashendock8687]

Just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to produce this video. Just finished replacing all 4 lower ball joints on my '06 Fusion. Had I not watched your video I would have been very stuck trying to figure out how to get the bolts out of the rear lower arms. You saved me hours and a lot of frustration. Thank you!

[@jerreplace6850]

Very well done video! Worked flawlessly on a 2010 Fusion as well. No BS stories just straight to the point. I realize this video is 7 years old but since it was so well done I thought I'd throw a comment out there.

[@DanVaughn11]

Thanks for making and posting! It took me 8 hours to complete, but I followed all your instructions and saved ~$900! No more creaking noise while driving!

[@wkbarr]

Very helpful and very clear video. One of the best automotive videos I've seen anywhere! Keep up the good work!

[@Floridaboisosa]

I couldn't find one good Mazda video showcasing how to take off the ball joint until yours.Thank you for showing me the way. Hopefully now I'll have better success at my cv axle replacement... Happy wrenching ! Keep the videos coming...

[@ScubaStevo]

This was the most helpful video I've watched for my Mazda 6. Everything was explained thoroughly and gave me the confidence to take on this job. It saved me hundreds of dollars. I bought all 6 control arms and only spent $260 total. One thing I'll suggest is getting a good set of pickle forks that have sufficient thickness to them. I rented a pickle fork from O'Reilly Auto Parts and beat the heck out of the two lower ball joints. One separated after a while and the other ended up coming out with the metal sleeve. For the next two lower ball joints on the other side of the car, I went and rented a better set of pickle forks from Advance Auto Parts. These were thicker than my previous one and worked SO much better. I hit the pickle fork maybe 5 times on each ball joint and they were separated. Wish I would've gotten that set for the first two!

[@ManuelGonzalez-mm1xm]

Unfortunately i had the same problem needless to say im irritated i didn't tbink to realize that the thickness mattered

[@summerrosealexis6560]

Awesome video! Straight to the point and very clear with directions. Its nice to have good visuals and verbal directions without all the random side conversations most videos have.

[@Nozerone]

I'm about to have to do a lot of work to my 07 mazda 6, and I think with this 1 video, you have become one of my favorite people!

[@b_gumm]

Hey man how did the work go? I have the same car. Im about to replace my entire suspension. I am worried about having issues with the bolts. Hope you get this message. #MazdaGang

[@Nozerone]

It went pretty smoothly honestly. If it hadn't have been for this video, I would have been confused as hell when I got to the lower rearward control arm. I did need a bit of help in pulling the the sub frame down a little bit to get that bolt out. When he was using the pickle fork, he was able to keep the metal boot in. I was not able to do it, and the boot came out with the control arm. Getting the bolt off the old control arms is easily the hardest part of the job. Thankfully the boots are metal, and can slip back in. The only issue I had other than those boots, was I ordered the wrong part. I ordered a front lower-rearward driver side control arm, when I needed one for the passenger. It's fine though, cause eventually the driver side one will be going into the car when I replace the rest of the suspension. Just follow the instructions in this video, and you'll do just fine.

[@b_gumm]

+Draggon Reaper thank you, I appreciate the feed back

[@b_gumm]

Draggon Reaper Where did you put the jack stands for this? On the pinch welds or the frame rail?

[@Nozerone]

There is a DIY shop in my city, and I went over there and used their lift. I'd probably set the jack stands under the frame instead of the pinch welds. If you can, have the jack stands right behind the front suspension to reduce the overhanging weight that's been lifted. Just be sure the position is stable, and won't move.

[@cyrilasfrenchyaz]

Ok I'm done with the job and in between I bought a genuine Mazda ball joint separator. It is beefier than the one at HF and it poped the ball joints with little to no efforts. Also the sleeved stayed inside the knuckle, yeah!. Lowering the sub-frame was fine but the space to remove the bolt was tight as the frame didn't go down very much and I had to pry it down a bit. Be very careful with the steering column, it makes it easy to turn without noticing. Keep an eye on it!

[@SDLAX46]

Great video, thank you for including torque specs! Its guys like you that make KZbin a great resource for DIYers

[@cameroncupp639]

Thanks for this video! Saved me around $350 from a shop doing both upper control arms (parts + labor). Watched this video and it gave me the confidence to do it myself. Not a bad job at all. Well worth the satisfaction of DIY! Using a couple a 2x4s, I was able to compress the steering knuckle (suspension) to get the hub center roughly 16.5-17 in from the top of the wheel well. I couldn't get to the 15.83 inches. I was using an AC Delco 2-ton aluminum jack. I did notice that before the jack reached maximum height that the car itself was lifting instead of the suspension continuing to compress. 2007 Ford Fusion SE 2.3L I4 with 110250 miles.

[@tbone2859]

Excellent video! Nice to see a vid without a lift. Going to replace the four lower control arms and was concerned about just having jackstands with needing to lower that subframe. Thank you sir!

[@paulinoplayarts9633]

this was the most helpfull video i had ever seen about the mazda 6

[@nickp5356]

Probably the most informative video I've seen on this, gives me much more confidence doing this project in the next few weeks.. props to you my man. And includes torque specs..ty!!

[@clydemcm]

The video is good. DO use jackstand a 23mm socket is standard in lots of socket sets. Make sure you have one first. A box/open end combo from sears will work. Don't use a pickle fork. Buy the $30 OTC ball joint lever. Even with, watch the pop from the pressure release. if the engine doesn't drop enough, encourage it carefully with a prybar. It doesn't take much to get it down another 1" careful! loaded the suspension 15.8" isn't easy. careful as you'll probably lift the car off the jack stands.

[@andrewdobin]

Amazing job. This was so much better than others with covering the preloading and what to remove before pulling the arms and frame. Thank you!

[@CoastStarlight]

This is EXACTLY what I needed to know/watch, currently doing this same install and also broke a gear puller myself, Thanx for posting this!

[@KingHVLP1234]

I found this video to late and did it without it🙁 wish I would have seen it, but thankfully I got it done and can enjoy watching knowing I don't have to do it again! Great video

[@jettison_m]

Great video. Love the "what not to do section" at 4:00. I'll be taking this job to the mechanic. At least I can appreciate all the labor that will be going into this job when I hand over the credit card :-(

[@josephzink2988]

It's a piece of cake. I live in nashville n and can do it for you for a lot less tan the dealer quoted me. $5000

[@OrlandoCampbell]

Going to try this at home very soon... Don't have ALL the tools but so far I can improvise for what I'm seeing. This is a good video. Thanks for sharing

[@happywrenching]

You're welcome. Hope the job goes well for you.

[@nomadland99]

Nice camera work and demonstration... gives me a much better picture of the time needed to do this. Thank you.

[@gratefulaya192]

thank you so much for this well made video. so far this is the best video I have seen, also the best instructions I have came across. I have the stupid Workshop Manual, the training manual, Chilton repair manual and also the haynes repair manual, which none of them are worth a penny for this job

[@mrau92me]

I'm about to replace my 6's front rearward CAs. I'm going to remove the steering input shaft's pinch bolt and mark it, but I'm not going to pull the u-joint apart or the large round grommet. I figure when I pry the subframe down the steering gear shaft should be free to slide in and out of the u-joint and grommet. This will save some steps. What do you think?

[@bradtitt7572]

Excellent idea! And you probably don't need to remove the subframe brackets just need to haveve it loose enough to drop it down a little

[@dantonjorge1010]

As a Brazilian, thank you for your video, saved me a lot of trouble and money lol

[@happywrenching]

So 8 years later I had to do this job again on this car. The car now has 225,000 miles on it and the replacement control arms finally gave out. I'm happy that they lasted this long. I wanted to pass on a tip that will make this job go a lot quicker. Particularly when trying to remove the ball joints from the knuckle. Instead of using separators I used my Bernzomatic TS8000KC torch to heat the joints. Don't use the blue propane torches. Use the yellow cylinders that have the MAPP gas and burn hotter. There is a rubber CV joint above the ball joints so you'll need to protect it from the flame with some kind of shield when you do this - I used a soldering heat shield that I got from Home Depot . All it took was a few minutes of heating up the joints and the knuckle from multiple angles and then a couple of blows with a 4lb hammer. The joints popped out with ease.

[@elrami4159]

Great video mate even after 8 years ... Does the 2011 mazda 6 also share the same parts with the 2nd gen fusion?

[@happywrenching]

@@elrami4159 Yes but mostly when it comes to the engines and their related parts. Fusion uses the 2.5 developed by Mazda and Mazda uses the 3.7 developed by Ford.

[@Chris_Paul1]

The ball joints weren’t really an issue for me, just used a pickle fork and same size hammer u have. About 10 good hits and it pops out. I had more issues with the top control arm getting the bolts out past the shock. When u compress the spring up the bolt head was too big to fit in between the coils, I ended up taking the top bolts of the shock off and u can push the shock left or right to make clearance to pull the bolts out. Also my steering is heavier now, maybe I over tightened the bolts on all control arms. But thanks for the great tutorial.

[@dellikose]

Great video, thank you. What are all the socket sizes that are needed to do this job?

[@happywrenching]

23mm for the large control arm ball joint nuts. 21mm & 15mm for the subframe brackets. Most of everything else will be either 12mm, 13mm, 15mm, or 17mm.

[@dellikose]

Thanks! A couple things... I had to pry between the subframe and the body to get the rear control arm bolt to clear the body, the subframe did not drop with the jack like in the video. I'm guessing it was sticking because of some rust. Also, I had to jack up the transaxle a little to get the driver side front control arm bolt out and back in. Mazda didn't do us any favors with room to work, that's for sure. Overall it's time consuming, but not too bad of a job.

[@renegade1520]

Really good instructional video. Working on my fusion currently and this is the best video I’ve found. Good lighting and editing too. Thanks!

[@happywrenching]

Seigi and Norman, appreciate the feedback. I'm glad you found the video helpful :)

[@happywrenching]

+‫الرجل الشرير‬‎ 2009 and up is different. The two lower control arms are replaced with a single piece.

[@Noah-mn2gc]

My subframe wont lower I did everything you said one of the ball joints won't break loose please help 2007 mazda 6

[@boostedwolfie]

Robert S noisy as in squeaks?

[@boostedwolfie]

Robert S does it stop under braking?

[@boostedwolfie]

Robert S the squeaking i mean, hopefully the car stops when you brake haha.

[@b_gumm]

Would you recommend buying new bolts from the dealer before beginning the work? I am about to replace my entire suspension. I am worried I will run into a issue with a bolt. Further more did you replace the stabilizer bar when doing this ?

[@user-nk6sg8li9x]

What is the need to remove the rubber seal on the steering shaft? Trying this repair at home on a V6 Fusion and others are saying to flex the sub frame, but your way seems less likely to mess something up.

[@johndoh4064]

Just did this job on my MKZ today by GENTLY flexing the edge of the subframe. It doesn't take quite as much pressure and it doesn't need as much flex to pull/replace the bolt as it looks

[@mikefettig3045]

Saw this excellent video and convinced me to attempt the repair. Bought a full replacement kit for upper and lower ball joints, the Lisle pickle fork kit plus pre-loaded struts. Going for it in on a 2004 Mazda 6i with 88,000 miles. Noticed my front lower control arm bushings were gone after some creaking after going over bumps.

[@mikefettig3045]

Did the repair. I used the non-flare nuts that came with the new ball joints and that was a mistake. The nut on the driver rear control arm disintegrated and the control arm popped off the spindle and control arm was dangling in my rim. Towed my six back home and put the original ball joint nuts back on.

[@brockbaker3able]

thank you for this great video. such a common problem in these mazdas,and the shops want a boatload to do the work. much appreciated

[@travishauch8132]

Do you adjust the alignment with the control arms? I need to replace mine and trying to figure out if I need to get a front wheel alignment after.

[@richbarbee3003]

Great video. I just completed this today. Thank you for being so thorough. I was having suspension noise due to a faulty bushing in the forward lower control arm. Completed this along with new struts on my 2003 Mazda 6.

[@happywrenching]

No problem, glad the video helped.

[@SR-pb6kq]

excellent video. Thank you. Yeah, its impossible to remove lower arm bolt without lowering sub frame since the bolt is too long

[@BaveMage]

I really have no freaking idea how you had success with the pickle fork technique! The steel bushing between the ball joint and the hub make it almost impossible to remove the way you did it! Hammering upwards directly on the control arms (even with limited space and a 3 lb sledge) was Sooo much more effective than any other way I've tried! Two HF balljoint tools broken and failure. Mine is a 2007 Mazda 6, look for my previous comment and you may save yourself some grief. I hope you'll consider my technique and do an update on this video!

[@cag9228]

worked like a champ for me on my 2004 Mazda 6s. The key was leaving the nuts on the balls and not letting them pop out completely. It only took 20 or so wacks with a 5lb hammer. I used the exact same pickle fork set he used. The Lisle 41500.

[@happywrenching]

Excellent. Not sure why people are having problems with the pickle forks. Its effective. Hammering upwards runs the risk of the sleeves popping out of the knuckle along with the control arm.

[@jbroome2336]

Great video, I have this job ahead of me and this is a very good demonstration of how to do it without costly specialty tools. Just what I needed, thanks!

[@cyrilasfrenchyaz]

Somehow I had to redo the job as I needed to change my CV axle and I ended up bulging the ball joint stud... Note to self: use the nut on the BJ to press it up with the MAzda BJ separator.... anyway, this time I thought it was useful to 1) lock the steering wheel after you remove the bolt of the steering column 2) disconnect the tie rod to give more slack to turn the knuckle while the steering wheel is in a lock position. Great reference video!

[@michaellarcom]

I've done it just like you showed 3 years ago and today my ball joints seem tight still but when I did mine I removed the ball joint boots and really filled them them up with more grease than they came with and I preloaded all control arms as shown and when I had to change the intermediate CV Jack shaft I noticed after freeing up the top ball joint and taking the strut loose from the lower control arm to get the control arm down enough to move it to the side to get the CV shaft out that my lower control arms seem to move up and down pretty freely but the bushings look good but it's like the guide through the bushing has broke loose from the rubber bushing is that normal? I was thinking that they would still have some control to stand up without any pressure pushing down but they fall all the way down so I take a light and I'll look at that guide to see if it's moving but I'm moving the arm up and down it seems stationery but the rubber is free no longer bonded to it. I don't usually have a sense of loads on my front end pretty much just a driver.

[@craigbeckerkorb6536]

This is one of the best how to videos I've ever seen! Keep it up... Maybe a couple 95 f150 videos could be in order...

[@cnjlakes]

This is such a great video! Excellent job explaining why you are performing each step as well as pointing out what you don't want to do. The boots on my front lower control arms are torn and the ball joint is beginning to make noise, but the boots over the front lower rear appear to be in good shape. I'm tempted to only replace the front control arms hoping I get another year out of the front lower rear before I have to mess with dropping the subframe. Thanks again!

[@happywrenching]

I would just replace the front one. But be careful, depending on how you take out the control arm there is a good chance of ripping the boot on the other control arm. Good luck!

[@cnjlakes]

+happywrenching I'm going to use a ball joint separator from Harbor Freight. Seems like a lot of folk have had good results with it. Thanks!

[@alanhowarth2801]

Thanks. Truly excellent video. And big thanks for including the torque settings and the preload measurement. Easy job and confidence building. Cheers from Brisbane, Australia.

[@johnbrookes6776]

I'm from the UK, are the "new" nuts(the two on the underside of the steering knuckle) the same size as the originals? I found my arm came with a standard 16mm nut not the large flanged one, this(new one) is the same size as the collar that sits in the knuckle so the whole thing can work its way out on the road, I only ask as the new ones in the video seem too small? The video is a great help now I can tackle the bent arms with more ease, of course our cars are covered in rust!

[@nathanielkeaton4775]

What is the bushing called on the front side of the lower control arm that you took off around 5:30 into the video?

[@44Celt]

I managed to change the lower arm without dropping the sub frame. Get someone with a heavy pry bar to lever the chassis while you pull the bolt out. Its pretty close fit tho'. great vid

[@tonycervantes4816]

Nice vídeo sir. . I have a question and doubt why you removed the steering shaft. Inside the car? And you only have to remove one bracket ?

[@happywrenching]

It was for liability reasons - don't want people dropping the subframe too low and ripping out the steering shaft. You don't need to mess with the steering shaft.

[@trevorpitre3242]

Hey man your video is going to be very helpful!! Although I have a few questions...are all the ball joints in the control arms and are there 3 on each side and are they not replaceable without changing the whole arm?

[@happywrenching]

There are three control arms per side - one on the top and two on the bottom. All three have ball joints. While you CAN replace the balljoint on the upper control arm, you cannot replace them on the bottom arms and must replace the whole arm. Don't forget that there is also a balljoint on the tierod so technically there are four ball joints per side.

[@trevorpitre3242]

Yup...sounds great!! Thx a lot!

[@drewgregg4952]

I have a 2006 Mazda six automatic three. Oh, and I can’t find the sub frame for it anywhere it’s completely rotted out gone the control arms cracked right off of it and I can’t find the park anywhere cause Mazda discontinued the subframes. Are there any Ford fusions that will fit my vehicle anyone please help me

[@jimmski9908]

very good video, you certainly have skills. others have tried simply loosening the sub-frame and did not mess with the steering column. The thought of removing the steering is pretty daunting.

[@EnshroudedBijou]

What happens if we don't remove the steering column? It does seem daunting.

[@wulfman15]

Holy crap... The bolts on the knuckle are NO JOKE. I resorted to beating the pickle forks with a full size sledge. Oh, and a note for people with the V6, the subframe does NOT drop nearly that easy xD The exhaust is in the way and you have to loosen up a few other bolts. Still saved $800. Was worth the pain and suffering!

[@Fedfire37]

My rear lower control arm had to be pulled out with the whole knuckle because the ball joint taper would not come out. I broke an aluminum pickle fork and a ball joint seperator tool in half in the process. I beat the piss out of it in my vise and it came out with the bushing which is part of the knuckle. I had to have a friend heat it up with torches to separate the bushing from the ball joint taper.

[@chickenfishhybrid44]

+Chris Groff What other bolts need to be removed to get the subframe down? Just more of the subframe bolts?

[@hahaayoungin]

Chris Groff I

[@lukethompson8917]

Do you have the torque specs for the front upper control arm bolts and for the upper ball joint on that control arm? I did the job a couple days ago and just want to make sure everything is right. The lower ball joints were a pain in the ass. I had to have someone sit in the car and hold the steering wheel either hard left or hard right while I beat the piss out of the pickle fork. The pickle fork that you showed was the only one that worked for me along with an 8lb sledge hammer. Thank you for the video. Excellent work. Could you tell me the name of the repair manual that you are using?

[@cyrilasfrenchyaz]

Front upper control arm bolt is 56 foot/lbs, ball joint 39 foot/lbs. Middle lower control arm, fork is 93 foot/lbs, frame is 93 and ball joint is 147.5 foot/lbs. Rear lower control arm is 93 foot/lbs for the bolt and 147.5 for the ball joint bolt.

[@strategy6975]

Great video. I need to replace my front lower rear control arm and was wondering what size pickle fork you used to separate the ball joint on the video.

[@happywrenching]

Sorry, don't know what size it was - nothing was labeled. Used one of the forks from the Lisle 41500 kit.

[@A10ZA]

Hi, is it possible to replace only the front lower control arms without losening the rear lower control arms? My 2 front ball joints has cracked rubber boots and i suspect that its making the squeaking noise when i pushed down the front corner of the car hood and driving slowly on bumpy roads. Thanks for a very detailed video bro!

[@happywrenching]

Yes, each control arm can be individually taken out. Another source of squeaking are sway bar bushings so you may want to check them out and add silicone grease to them.

[@w8t2009]

Hi!! Great video! I have a question, when I turn the steering wheel to the left it goes normal and smooth. But to the right, it's a bit harder. Not too hard but it's noticable. Could it be anything other than the steering rack itself?

[@happywrenching]

Could be strut mounts, any of the ball joints in the front and that includes tie rods and control arms. Could be in the steering rack itself though less likely.

[@jedaigill432]

I’ve seen a lot of guys not loosening the steering column. What are some issues you’d run into if you don’t do that?

[@carlosa4285]

Very good video. On my 2007 Milan with tighter suspension, you actually have to drop the strut to remove the bolts for the upper control arm.

[@kenbarickman5930]

I have a 2006 Mazda 5, manufactured in Nov. 2015. I have a one piece front lower control arm. On the right hand side, the air conditioner compressor restricts travel of the forward bolt attachment. Any suggestions on how to get enough clearance?

[@user-ny1tg5ng4z]

I just wanted to thank you for making this video.I was very informative, and helped me make the repairs myself ! You Rock !!

[@69ssrszl1]

Are these two models the same as a 2008 Lincoln MKZ? All the parts look the same. How about the coil springs? Will a complete strut assembly fit? All strut makers have no complete or quick assembly for a MKZ

[@matthewmcreynolds7428]

I didn't have to use a pickle fork or ball joint remover. I just used a 4 pound sledge hammer and hit up on the control arm a few times and it popped all of the control arm ball joints out. Nor did I have to disconnect the steering shaft. After removing the plates that hold up the sub frame, it dropped enough to where I could get to the rear bolts of the rear lower control arms. Also if you have a 3.0 V-6, you will have to disassemble the passenger side pre-catalytic converter to be able to get a socket and extension in there to remove the rear bolt holding the lower front control arm on the passenger side.

[@happywrenching]

FYI - as many people have already reported, you run the risk of removing the steering knuckle sleeve along with the ball joint if you use a sledge to hit the control arm. Then you have to mess with trying to remove the sleeve from the ball join. Not fun. Using the pickle fork ensures that the sleeve stays in the knuckle. All other points are valid.

[@mhill94]

Such a straight to the point video, great job! You made it look so simple too! All ya gotta do is have patience and follow directions.

[@junoquat582]

Awesome video with good info but i hit a snag. I ordered the full suspension package from Ebay and started install this afternoon. Everything went as shown until removing the front lower control arm where I separated it from frame using the Pickle Fork. The metal sleeve remained attached to the arm just above the threads. I am soaking them in Liquid Wrench tonight but wanted to see if you have any ideas about how to get it off easily. Thanks

[@happywrenching]

If you used the pickle fork correctly then I don't see how its possible for the sleeve to stay attached to the control arm. The pickle fork goes between the top of the sleeve and the ball-joint. When you hit the pickle fork, it forces those two apart, so again, I don't see how the sleeve remained attached. One way to remove it would be to use a gear puller (I do this in the website article). Otherwise, just reinstall the control arm and use the pickle fork to separate the two.

[@cameltoast]

happywrenching this happened to me, my ball joints were practically welded into the sleeves. Sleeves came out but stayed stuck on the ball joint.

[@themainmason]

Great video. I've been struggling with my lower control arms on the knuckle side. Been using a ball joint decompression tool and not the pickle fork. Looks like a trip to harbor freight is in order.

[@BaveMage]

+themainmason I've found that hammering upwards on the control arm near the hub to be the easiest way to remove either control arm. Since you'll be replacing them anyways, no harm done! I broke two HF ball joint tools on my 2007 Mazda 6 before Hammer Time success! The bushing will likely be stuck to the bolt, cut through the ball joint bolt stud on the joint side then find a big socket, place the bushing on the socket threaded side up and hammer out the remaining stud. If you've gotten this far it should be apparent what to do. Have fun!

[@folabiolat9744]

Thanks for posting this video. I followed your instructions and was able to change all the control arms. Very helpful.

[@chickenfishhybrid44]

Is it absolutely necessary to remove the steering shaft to lower the subframe or were you just being safe? Also, is there a master spline on the steering rack to help with aligning the steering shaft? Thanks, good video

[@happywrenching]

+shawnmeyer44 Necessary? Probably not. However, since it's in the service manual I did it just to be safe. Besides, it takes less then 5 minutes to undo the steering. There is no master spline so you may want to mark the shaft. Not a big deal again because if you are off by one spline then you will clearly see that the steering wheel is not centered.

[@chickenfishhybrid44]

+happywrenching Thanks for the fast reply. That sucks theres no master spline i hate that. I will likely have an alignment done anyway so yeah not that big of a deal

[@robertholly9379]

happywrenching

[@craigzilla100]

I have a speed6, but this looks just about identical. Any differences that I should know about? Is it much cheaper to replace just the ball joints or do you have to go ahead and replace the entire control arms? I have a lot of cracking and knocking noise coming from both wheels, but I can't visibly tell which ball joint it is that's causing the issue.. awesome video by the way!!

[@andrewbabich5138]

Great video. Why do you need to disconnect the steering shaft ? Also do you need to disconnect the shaft if only doing the passenger side? Are those mevotech parts and are you happy with whatever you used for control arms? How many miles do you have on the new parts

[@gustavoestevam5263]

Great great great guide! Cannot put into words how useful it was. Thank you

[@th0mm90]

I've found that some shops are offering 12mm and 14mm ID versions of the straight lower control arm. Do you know which one is correct for a 2002 GG Atenza/6?

[@Gsxforsale]

If I want to do just the lower front control arm (one closest to the front of the car) is it as easy as it looks on this video? Also, if I decide to do the lower rearward control arm, do I have to remove the steering shaft if I’m only dropping sub frame just over an inch?

[@RyanBautista]

Thanks for sharing this video. It helps a lot to identify my mazda 6 2003 problem

[@juto4g]

would you happen to have a tutorial on an 08 enclave. removing stuck rear rotors even after loosening the emergency brakes from the inner drums

[@craigbeckerkorb6536]

No easy way of doing that bro... Hammer, hammer, swear, hammer...

[@10ring]

Great video, I'll be using it in the near future. I have some bumps and clunks that are obviously suspension related, but can't seem to figure out which joint it is. Any tips for testing each joint so I can pinpoint which is loose/making noise? I jacked it up and tried wiggling the wheels in all directions, but nothing was loose enough to notice.

[@happywrenching]

Have you tried using a crowbar? It will allow you to apply more force to the joints and you will be able to see if there is any play.

[@10ring]

happywrenching So any movement in the joint with a pry bar, even when the wheel is off the ground with no load, means the joint needs to be replaced?

[@happywrenching]

10ring Not necessarily. A joint is designed for movement. What you are looking for specifically, is slack. You do not want any play in the joint - the movement should be smooth and controlled. Inspect the swaybar end links and bushings. Also look at the control arm ball joints and bushings. Check the tie rods. Finally, worn out struts and strut mounts will also make clunking sounds when going over bumps so you may have to replace them.

[@radkacz83]

Good job! Thanks for great video for mazda 6 users. Good luck:)

[@mrau92me]

On the driver's side, how did you get the forward lower control arm's inboard bushing bolt out? I've got mine loosened, but the transmission fluid pan is blocking it from coming all the way out.

[@alfredocarrillo2433]

Curious on your resolution 🤔

[@mrau92me]

@@alfredocarrillo2433 If I remember correctly, I loosened the subframe bolts or removed them while supported with a jack until it dropped enough to clear. Wasn't that big of a deal. I think I did remove the very front subframe bolts completely and loosened the others a good bit. Look it over real well and you'll see what I'm talking about.

[@ogmarksu]

hey i just did this to my ford fusion. does the 15.83 in from the center of the hub to the fender really have a big impact on the process? i only replaced the upper control arm

[@happywrenching]

It has a big impact on how fast the bushings wear out on your new control arm(s). The reason for compressing the suspension to 15.83 inches is that it allows you to tighten the control arm bushings as if the car was on level ground with the suspension in a neutral position with no twisting force on the bushings. Let's say you tighten the control arm bushings with the suspension uncompressed and then lower the car. The suspension would compress and put a constant twisting force on the control arm bushings causing them to wear out prematurely.

[@nicholasowen6827]

What noises was it making for you to know that the upper control arms needed replacing? Mine was making a knocking noise when hitting bumps and braking heavily. I replaced the lower control arms but there is still a bit of knocking.

[@happywrenching]

There were creaking noises when going over bumps so I replaced all three arms at the same time. I would grab the control arm and shake it back and forth to see if there is any play in it. Unless the bushings were worn out, I doubt it will make any knocking noises. Look into the struts and strut mounts - they could be worn out, causing that knock noise.

[@yellowbusguy]

There is an issue with the steering column, I believe it can be solved by lubing the splines under the dash.

[@randyc4551]

I crawled under my car today and noticed that my frame is closed off so I am unable to get to the bolt that holds the lower front control arm on. Any suggestions on how to get that one off?

[@hunter08cora]

I was looking to put some 22 inch rims on my 2011 ford fusion, but it looks like the tires are going to hit or rub the steering knuckle. Is there an aftermarket one or something I can do to modify this so the rim will fit?

[@happywrenching]

You will have to go with some REALLY skinny tires. I don't know the exact size but I've seen people on KZbin and on the forums with 22s on their Fusion so it can be done.

[@BigDawgTheGreat]

What is the rubber bushing on the forward section of the upper control arm? I just replaced my 2011 Fusion upper arms and the old ones didn't have that bushing, but the new ones did. I took them off but wasn't what purpose they served.

[@alfredocarrillo2433]

You ever find out?

[@christopherbarnes9209]

this video gave me lots of great reference materials for what I need to do with my control arm to get the blasted CV axle out. the lower control arms were stuck and I guess I was being too gentle and I look forward to beat the ever live crap out of the pickle fork and that ball joint :)

[@elnegro15771]

Did u know the torque espec. of the upper control arm. Or the page where I could find it.

[@mistermister2085]

These things are a pita. Its 2 parts of fun. 1st getting the control arm out of the knuckle---torch/hit side of knuckle lots with sledge and then hit from below (the nut). Even then i probably worked on it for 2+ hours before it came. Then the real fun is if you can get the sleeve out--i resorted to using my 20 ton press which even that thing took some real force to crack it free. If/when i do the driver side i'm just getting the sleeve and using a new one (madza part on ebay). Mine was creaking bad and now it appears the creaking is gone (plus the old ball joint sleeve was torn). 2012 ford fusion.

[@carlosjavierPR]

The second controll arm its easy for a 4 cylinder but for a v6 the exhaust system is in the way ..

[@fabvideos592]

Where is the exhaust cause at 12:40 you got to that back bolt very easy!! My exhaust was keeping me from pulling that back bolt out

[@danielguzman8346]

I have a question. My car pulls to the righy after replaing the lower control arm. Any idea why?

[@marlon94124]

Did you replace your upper and lower control arms because your steering system was creaking?

[@mahdiassefzadeh6789]

I took my Mazda 6 2004 to a mechanic today for lower control arms replacement (front left). During the course of the job, he called me and said he wants to charge 2 more hours of labor because my car is from "the north" and it's rusty and he can't open the bolts or is scared that they'll break... What do you think about this? Was he lying? At the end of the day he said he also does not have the bolts. Do you have a list of the bolts so that I pre-order for safety? Do you recommend just taking it to the dealer for this? Thanks so much for the video.

[@happywrenching]

I think that a lot of people underestimate how long this job takes and that's what happened here. Yes rusty bolts are a problem and make this job even more time consuming. Sorry, can't help with the bolts but I'm sure you can order some through the dealer. I don't think you need to take the car to the dealer - as long as he removes the bolts without breaking anything and then torques everything properly then you should be fine with the mechanic doing the job.

[@robertholly9379]

ahdi Assefzadeh

[@yourdrunkdaddy1759]

i have a 2006 lincoln zephyr. same parts apparently. my question is simple, where on earth can you get a replacement metal ball joint sleeve thar goes into the knuckle/spindle?? i was removing one control arm and the metal sleeve was stuck to it. bad news is that the flange of sleeve broke while trying to get the sleeve off. i went to ford stealership and they told me that i had to buy a whole new knuckle/spindle unit just to get the sleeve. so, 300.00 to get a part i dont need just because it comes with the sleeves. and they dont sell them separatley. any help would be appreciated

[@happywrenching]

+Your Drunkdaddy Yes, that sleeve is not sold separately. You can look on eBay for used control arms - I see a bunch of them with the sleeve still attached. These are priced around $35. Of course you then have to separate the sleeve from the arm. OR you can look on eBay for a complete knuckle. They are going for $50 - $75 for a used one. Carefully look at the photos though as some are missing the sleeves. This route is slightly more expensive but will be easier to remove the sleeve. When searching on eBay remember that you can also use Mazda 6, Ford Fusion & Milan knuckles and control arms. Good luck.

[@dunken27]

You're the only one that tells us to disconnect the Steering Shaft when lowering the Subframe. Is that part totally necessary as noone else mentions it.? I have to do this job soon on my womans car so gathering up all i can beforehand.

[@happywrenching]

It is not totally necessary, if you don’t drop the subframe too much, the steering shaft can stay connected. Ive done it both ways

[@dunken27]

@@happywrenching thanks for answering back fella..much appreciated.

[@dunken27]

And i am most impressed that you answer questions on a 10yr video..respect to you fella and thanks once again..Subscribed

[@alnjr24]

Hello, Im curious to know was this performed on a mazda 6 3.0 engine? because i did this work yesterday and the back of the lower control arm bolt was very hard to get to. Nothing like in your video. Everything else looked just the same as your video except the back bolt.

[@b_gumm]

No this was on 2.3L. I think the 3.0 has the exhuast in that area. but ive heard itspossible to get to without removing exhuast. - But also not many 3.0 left out there due to cat failures and plp not replacing and instead scraping car.

[@mrau92me]

I have an 07 Mazda 6 and an 09 Fusion, both 2.3L. I'm likely about to do the 6's front lower arms. One step in my Haynes manual says to unbolt the full steering rack, but can you confirm for me that you only removed the steering column's u-joint? Haynes manuals are inconsistent... sometimes they are inaccurate and sometimes they are spot on

[@EnshroudedBijou]

What did you end up undoing for the steering column, just the u joint? And the plastic round piece I'm guessing as well so it doesn't break if you lower too much? Someone mentioned locking the steering wheel before you undo it, Ive taken note of that for sure. He is the only video that I have seen even mention the steering column. As lazy as I want to be, I don't need to make more problems for me to fix. Ugh, I guess I will undo the column. Hope you see this and I possibly see your tip, if any, before blindly diving in ☺️ Thank you Happywrenching for a hands on video! I don't have power tools so this was a treat to watch the old fashion wrench turning 😉. I have an 04 mazda 6 i, manual trans and I have loved this car to death! 233,923miles and I am for the first time replacing the suspension. I have definitely waited too long as it has been a rough ride for a while now, however, the axle just started clicking. So I know I have pushed the limits and all the bearings are pretty dry and cracked. That being said, I have pushed the limits with this car's suspension and I am proud of that. Loads of weight and many things stacked on the roof due for lack of space inside, but this little mazda is still going zoom zoom zoom! If anyone can suggest replacing the engine videos, I know that will be in my future one of these days 😅

[@mrau92me]

​@@EnshroudedBijouIt has been quite awhile since I did that job so I don't remember exactly.. I want to say I loosened the u joint and marked everything beforehand so that if the shaft came out, I could reinsert it in the same orientation. I'd say once you get into it, you can evaluate if you are putting stress on anything and loosen anything that you need to. I want to say I didn't remove the whole rack.

[@mrau92me]

​@@EnshroudedBijou I just watched the video again and it triggered my memory...I marked the u joint on the steering shaft and separated the steering shaft. To do the drivers side one, the transmission pan interferred with removal of one of the control arm bolts, and the subframe brackets had to removed and it lowered pretty far with my floor jack to get it out. Passenger side, like what's shown in this video was much easier... didn't have to lower as far

[@vladt6038]

Do I have to remove the rear frount control arm if I want to change only the frount control arm?

[@celiadominguez8209]

hello i have to change both sides back and forth for my 2007 fusion ford! the question is Lateral Link Control Arm is the same, thank you

[@Patrick91376]

I belive I might have a broken bolt on my front lower control arm where it bolts into the lower support frame. Bolt just spins when you try to tighten it. Is this a common issue and is it a pain to fix?

[@happywrenching]

Patrick91376 You may have stripped the threads on the bolt. Are you able to pull the bolt out? If not, then most likely the captive nut that the bolt screws into has come apart from the subframe and is spinning freely. The fix will require welding. Not fun at all.

[@Patrick91376]

Oh no. Thank you. I appreciate it.

[@NAPeterson]

Bravo. Excellent video. I did this job while following along with your vid. Thank you so much!

[@soccernut1997EK]

how do you take off the knuckle assembly and can you just change the grease seal and keep the original control arms

[@happywrenching]

To take off the knuckle assembly you have to remove the nuts on the upper control arm, the two lower control arms, and the tie rod. Then disconnect them from knuckle. You also need to remove the axle nut and slide the axle out. As for the grease seal, if you are talking about the rubber boot on the ball joint then I'm sure you could change the boot. The problem is finding replacement parts - nobody sells just the boot, only the complete control arm.

[@jimkramer]

Very well done! Thanks for posting. I will be tackling this over the weekend!

[@Mecal00]

Really appreciate the video, it definitely helped!However, I did wince when you put the pipe over the ratchet.

[@LaLito886]

So why do I have to wait to tighten all bolts with the suspension at a certain height. I'm assuming that is the reason why I have to replace my control arms again that I replaced last year. I was tighten up everything as I went.

[@happywrenching]

+Lalo Zamora Copying my answer again - "It has a big impact on how fast the bushings wear out on your new control arm(s). The reason for compressing the suspension to 15.83 inches is that it allows you to tighten the control arm bushings as if the car was on level ground with the suspension in a neutral position with no twisting force on the bushings. Let's say you tighten the control arm bushings with the suspension uncompressed and then lower the car. The suspension would compress and put a constant twisting force on the control arm bushings causing them to wear out prematurely"

[@Xgfire]

Did you have to lower the sub-frame to get enough clearance frame bolt for the rearward, or was it for another reason? Also what is the torque for the sub-frame bolts? Did you only have the jack stands up at the front during it or did you have jacks on all 4 sides?

[@happywrenching]

I lowered it because there is not enough clearance to remove the rear control arm bolt. Not sure of the torque. I just used a single jack to lower the rear of the subframe. You only need to lower it a few inches. I didn't touch anything in the front of the subframe. Hope that helps!

[@Xgfire]

happywrenching ok thanks, one more question is it really necessary to disconnect steering collumn? What happens if you lower subframe without doing it?

[@happywrenching]

No I don't think its necessary. I've read that a few people did it without disconnecting it.

[@Xgfire]

ok, when you got to the part where you disconnected the steering column in the video it made me a little nervous about having to do it, but if i can just skip that step than great. This a very well done repair video and i really appreciate you taking the time to respond to comments, i'm going to get ready to do this on my mazda 6 soon, this'll be the first major repair ive done, so far i've only ever done small things like breaks and spark plugs.