How to Replace Front Lower Forward Control Arm with Ball Joint 2003-08 Mazda 6

[@1AAuto]

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[@kennetherwin9780]

I’m adding this comment to three videos: I did lower rearward, lower foreword, and upper control arm today. The part that’s super important is I struggled for like an hour trying to get the upper control arm bolts through the shocks. Because I was doing all three, I already had the lower part of the shock disconnected at that wishbone joint. As such, it was SUPER EASY to just disconnect the top of the strut under the hood to allow it to move out of the way to remove the inner upper control arm bolts. It took me an hour to figure out the one side, then about 10 minutes to do the other side.

[@regionalatmeme6677]

That’s what I had to do too

[@1diode]

Thanks for the tip about the ball Joint spacer. it was just what I was looking for and explains what is the lump of metal I am looking at. I thought I had the wrong part or had damaged the wheel assembly. Cheers

[@1AAuto]

+1diode Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c

[@dcrust2034]

Best video I’ve seen on lower control arms for fords and Mozart! Your a great mechanic!

[@gstone1570]

5:45 Correction to the 1A Auto lday. You do NOT need to take the control arm to a machine shop and have the metal sleeve pressed off. There is a much easier way to remove it. Rent an arm puller from an auto parts store, put the prongs of the puller on the metal sleeve and hit with a hammer. The sleeve will pull off. There is a KZbin video on how to do this too.

[@SergioTorres-nt1xm]

She knows that. She was removing forts for another video..

[@chriso229]

Hammering the pitman arm puller to get the insert off the control arm will crush and damage the top threads of the tool.

[@dianaamador6177]

😮 I’m glad that I found your videos on how to install parts on my Mazda 6. Thank you 😊

[@atxjax1]

Thanks for the video. Wish it was this easy on the V6 version. For that you have to either lift the engine e up some on the drivers side after unbolting the passenger and rear mount or drop the subframe some to be able to snake in a universal to get to the lower control arm bolt.

[@nc7432]

And I thought the passenger's side was dumb for having to remove a part of the exhaust. This is gonna be fucking exhausting xd

[@shaunrollo1991]

I found this helpful, as I think I will be needing to replace the control arms on my car. The only concern that I have is, why didn't you preload the suspension before torquing down the bushing?

[@mrau92me]

On the driver's side, how did you get the front lower control arm's inboard bushing bolt out? I've got mine loosened, but the transmission fluid pan is blocking it from coming all the way out.

[@joeruhe8030]

Did you ever get an answer to this? Same issues here.

[@Bigcountrytv]

@@joeruhe8030 yup sane issue right got now

[@chriso229]

If the same as the Ford Fusion, place a piece of wood under the transmission pan and carefully lift it a tiny bit to make room to back out the bolt. Reference: South Main Auto Channel kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqjZo4xpdrOrY5o

[@ghostz28]

You should vote this comment up to the highest to save people the troubles that I had to go through. Sue neglected to remind us that when torquing down the suspension bolts to hold the control arms in place you must use threadlocker or they WILL BACK THEMSELVES OUT, I did this job and failed to use threadlocker had to remove and retighten all of my control arm suspension mounts with threadlocker two of the bolts had backed themselves out causing a massive toe-in which shredded two of my brand new tires. They will not be replaced under warranty because they can tell it was an alignment issue caused by something like that

[@whostheboss4291]

But you suppose to preload the suspension before torqued down the bolts

[@Ig20303]

Excellent display

[@nickford7011]

For the ball joint sleeve you can either tap it in or use a c-clamp or puller to press it back in. Don’t forget to jack the knuckle up to ride height before tightening those bushings too. 15.83” (402mm) from center of the axle shaft straight up to the fender

[@1AAuto]

+Nick Ford Thanks for the tip!

[@joshkisul1932]

Where do I measure the preload from? What's the ride height from ground to upper wheel well

[@raidzor5452]

@@joshkisul1932 Preload is standard-defined and is 15.83” for all mazda 6’s with this suspension. It goes from the centre of the axle (centre of weel, to put in simple terms) to the fender.

[@raidzor5452]

@@joshkisul1932 So you preload the suspension up until the centre of the axle is at a distance of ~400mm from the rim, and then you tighten the bolts.

[@mikedrillz2866]

Thanks for the info,those darn sleeves got stuck on the taper of the balljoint,just stuck the arm in the press with a bearing separator placed behind the lip of the sleeve and it popped off.What you do dont hit the machined outer of the sleeve with a hammer to free it up,you will distort it and it will never go back into its hole.

[@renenunez4015]

Tanks so much exelente video tanks saludes pretyy

[@1AAuto]

+Rene Nunez Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto

[@CarlosGarcia-tq6do]

Nice vídeo !!! Thanks ..

[@marlon94124]

How many miles does this first generation Mazda6 had when you replaced the lower control arms?

[@alfonsomolina9143]

Thank you for this video really Good content it help me alot with my arma control on my Mazda 6 2005

[@ProudSeker]

Appreciate this so much fr slammed into a dump truck tire messed up whole right side

[@SamuraiSmokes]

What is the donut looking part for the suspension mount bolt called and what is it for?

[@anthonylau3862]

What are the signs that indicates the control arm needs replacing? Are there certain noises that I should listen for?

[@fredb8357]

I need to replace my passenger side control arm. But the driver side seems okay. Do you really need to replace both at the same time? Thanks

[@bradtitt7572]

Do both

[@chopperboy4204]

Please 1A Auto. For the life of me I can’t find that little rubber piece that the lower strut fork mount bolt goes through. Please help me! Mine broke and I don’t know if I need it or not

[@sypernova6969]

man. I had to use a sledge hammer to seperate the ball joint from the hub. then I was stuck, unable to reinsert them, ended up using a jack as a press, or else they wouldn't go back in. in the video, the part where the male part of the ball joint is inserted in the female part in the hub is conveniently cut out.... now that I checked the other video I'm realizing that I probably ended up taking out the insert AND the ball joint (?I reused the parts, I was doing transmissions work).

[@auerrobert133]

10/10 mechanic

[@ghostz28]

This lady needs to be in commentary for women's basketball, Sue I nominate you to replace whoever a ESPN 😆 🤣

[@afveteran]

I have Mazda6 2016, sedan. Mileage on the car is just under 66000 miles. Mechanic is telling me to replace bushings and replace lower control arm bushings on both sides. This doesn't sound right. Cause I don't drive on gravel roads here in Colorado. I appreciate constructive feedback. Thank you.

[@1AAuto]

+@afveteran We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c

[@kimquyluu6771]

Thank you share clip

[@bigmike4720]

Will theses make squeaky noises when the go bad

[@1AAuto]

+mike levern Yes, sometimes these will make noises when they go bad.

[@AM2prunejuice]

Are the drivers side and passengers side identical parts? Are the two sides different?

[@artcraftstudio560]

Ball joint separator what size 23 mm or 21mm?

[@timothywright9781]

Pickle forks dont have sizes nd worked for me

[@joedirt4027]

Never mentioned had to Remove Exhaust to remove bolt with out Stripping on lower Control Arm

[@joedirt4027]

At 4:00

[@Gwelds]

I’m sorry but it seems you forgot one fundamental detail - the clearance. I mean don’t you think the front of the car is a bit higher? One very important thing to consider before tightening the bolts is to measure the correct distance between tire and the fender.

[@matt8863]

2:24 Correction...23mm socket.

[@Pinkielover]

do a 2 nd gen model of mazda 6

[@1AAuto]

+Pinkie Love We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c

[@MrJoshap]

Hi. I notice you don't preload. In your opinion is this your necessary ?

[@mohamedtaher9279]

Hi Do you have shipping to Saudi Arabia

[@1AAuto]

+Mohamed Taher Thanks for watching! Unfortunately we do not offer shipping to your location at this time. 1aauto.com

[@mohamedtaher9279]

@@1AAuto Ok, thanks a lot

[@Djr67]

The ball joint nut is 23mm not 24mm

[@c0ldbl00dedkiller]

A women mechanic! Thought I would never see the day.

[@hasansyadzilif2580]

I want to buy this tool, where can I order ???

[@JJ-ck1vg]

Does anybody know the bolt size and threads plssss

[@mikib4053]

Need to send to australia

[@chrissibersky4617]

Lol. Everyone shows how to do it on the right side. I wonder why they never show how to do it on the left side. 🤔 😂😂😂😂😂😂