Hatch Rot Removal & Repair - A How-To | E009

[@livingforsail]

Who would like to be the first one to comment on this video??

[@svduet400]

Very refreshing channel. Too many sailing channels are pushing bikini's (not terrible) and beer (again not terrible). Your informative approach to explaining each step is great. I have done a lot of similar work on my own boats, but nothing this extensive. Great work, keep it going!

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the feedback! I appreciate that. Just when I thought I needed to dust off the old bikini to get views an encouraging comment like this comes along to brighten my day. Cheers! 🙏👍🙌

[@scottcates]

The topsides part of this refit is highly relevant. Too many boats get cut up because neither the DIY community nor the boatyard industry has a good handle on the issue of repairing/replacing/refurbishing a rotten deck core. Thanks, Jon.

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the feedback. It’s a lot of work but I agree that many great boats have been condemned for stuff like this. If it’s “worth it” might be a subjective matter. In my case I am excited to bring this boat back from the brink. 👍🙌

[@1Wilful]

You're a really good teacher and communicator, especially for an engineer.

[@livingforsail]

Hey. Thanks a lot 🙏👍🙌

[@kenyonstewart7120]

We have a similar large hatch like that on the foredeck for our sail locker. If I end up removing the teak decks and having to remove the core like you are, it’s tempting to try and find a solid fiberglass hatch that’s made to be flush mounted. There’s really no reason for it to be clear and it would open up the foredeck a ton if it was flush with the rest of the deck.

[@livingforsail]

Interesting! The original liberties actually had the forward most hatch built as a flush hatch with a double door. It was only the later models that had this “upgrade”. Maybe I’ll want to think about how this goes back together a bit more … 🤔 Thanks for the input. 🙏🙌👍

[@kenyonstewart7120]

@@livingforsail Lewmar actually makes clear flush mounted hatches, but I worry about the strength a bit as ours is a 24x24”. I don’t know if the Lewmar ones have metal supports under the middle of the acrylic like our old Bomar ones do.

[@willardweston2002]

Happy to see there are people out there as crazy as me.

[@livingforsail]

Haha. Yep, I might have a few loose screws myself…. 😜🙌

[@richardsiddon610]

Keep chipping away.. And Thankyou for sharing.

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for watching! Will do!!

[@torstenhansen4308]

Big thumbs up, again 👍.

[@livingforsail]

Thank you Torsten! 🙏🙏🙏

[@Shirrif]

You seems to be competent and very systematic to remove the rot! I am looking forward to see how you stitch it back up. Thank you for really clear videos.

[@livingforsail]

Thank you. Taking it apart is the easy half unfortunately 😂. Stay tuned as we will be putting the first few core sections back in pretty soon. Thanks again for the feedback! 🙏👍🙌

[@brownnoise357]

I'm intrigued also. Some years back .I decided to never have Teak or any other wood on Deck, ever liked the idea of Balsa or Plywood Cores, and only have non slip on Decks, cabin tops, Cockpit sole and bathing platform or Sugarscoop and Synthetic Teak just for under Cockpit Cushions, and Zero Plywood below decks for Sailing in areas with Termite problems, as Plywood is a big flashing sign saying Free Restaurant open for Termites. So next Sailboat is going to be pretty Termite Resistant, and very resistant to Seawater even touching the Vinylester Laminate Hull, thanks to the two coat epoxy primer for that foot and knee kind American non skid, the not one of the coarse Sandpaper effect ones. I did build a boat using very expensive high quality marine Hardwood Plywood, and Frankly I am extremely unimpressed with the stuff, not even in a Termite area. Two pot high quality paint inside and out too. Never Again. 🤔 Best Wishes. Bob. 👍⛵️✨️✨️✨️

[@livingforsail]

@@brownnoise357 I agree and think it is best to plan to not have materials that break down as much As possible! Cheers! 👍🙏

[@brownnoise357]

@@livingforsail A big help is sailing to only 80% stress the Boat by Reefing early. the Weatherhelm single rudder feedback for early warning to depower the Sails is really important. Sailboat Racing really, is all about stressing the Boat 100% then over that stresses rise fast and things get broken. 80% works fine for me, I still get pla es, So Far Anyway. All the Best. Bob. 👍⛵️✨️✨️✨️

[@livingforsail]

@@brownnoise357 I agree and I’ve never been too keen on racing. I just like being out in the water. 🙂

[@lanian91]

i guess I´m second then... I really love your approach on rebuilding this beauty! You have a really good capability to explain things and get to them systematically and professionally! After Mads, Aladino and Maya, Leo, Duracell and all the other great refit channels I´m glad I found anotherone I could watch for hours!

[@livingforsail]

Hi. I’m glad that you enjoyed the video and I am beyond honored that you would list me with those other GREAT refit channels. 🙏

[@scottcates]

I didn't realize your boat had an elevator🤯16:53

[@livingforsail]

😂

[@jonunya3128]

always enjoy your content, it satisfies the engineer in me. calm/logical/test and assess/solve and implement.

[@SoBoring136]

How the xxxx does this content remotely satisfy the engineer in you ??????? Come on get real, unfortunately it’s just another run of the mill highly planned out channel who’s motivation is to make $$$$$ not quality content trying to tap into the many who escape on KZbin and really don’t care to much what they watch. It’s a shame he seems a likeable bloke I thought it was going to be a good one but unfortunately not.

[@livingforsail]

I must have cut this guy off on the highway at some point or something? 🤣🤷‍♂️

[@danieladecker7231]

Great work. A thorough explanation of driver/screwdriver being out of line with the plane of screw, causing skipping, would be worthwhile. Being in line with the screw can overcome a lot of having the incorrect bit size. Another comment might be worthwhile is mentioning the Phillips bits which are flared on the wings which help greatly.

[@livingforsail]

Thanks. Yes, those are all good points. The screw that was the subject of this rant was passed the point of alignment issues I’m afraid. I appreciate the input. Cheers! 👍🙏

[@sodoffxx]

Comment. Excellent video, editing and content.... as now expected :)

[@livingforsail]

Thank you 🙏

[@a_ham_like_me]

I like your thoughtful and measured approach to de-constructing your boat. Even though a good deal of parts may end up in the bin you take the time to analyze failures for future reference. Nicely done.

[@livingforsail]

Thank you very much for the feedback. A lot of the work is to understand why things went wrong so we can ensure we don’t end up here again. I appreciate your support! 🙏👍

[@SoBoring136]

Don’t be fooled my friend he is a engineer and does not need to investigate every piece of soaked wood, he will have all the work that is required detailed and know exactly his time line and production schedule he is drip feeding the project to viewers hoping to build his channel via time and number of videos. The smart way is to let the quality of content and his likeable personality naturally grow the channel but his motive is wrong

[@livingforsail]

@@SoBoring136 🤔🤣

[@evilla7579]

As for the caulking around the hatches, use a slightly sharpened putty knife together with a hammer to break the seal.

[@livingforsail]

Thank you for the tip! 🙏👍🙌

[@andrewmoylan6295]

G'day John, so much work for you mate... keep you busy for quite some time ... Keep chipping Amigo

[@livingforsail]

Yes it is. We will keep on keeping on. Cheers!

[@andrewmoylan6295]

G'day John , have you seen Matt and Jahni's Duracell project? Really cool upgrades going on, Matt's been using this extra strong Coosa board, irs a foam with fibreglass strands injected into it. This stuff could be a good replacement. Especially at the front up to your bowsprit .. worth checking out, mate.

[@livingforsail]

@@andrewmoylan6295 yeah, I love watching that project unfold. It’s amazing! I am playing with some coosa as a matter of fact and will try to get that out in a video soon. Cheers! Thanks so much for the idea! 🙏🙏👍🙌

[@SLBoats-h8z]

I'm a little late to the show. Your attention to detail and steady approach remains stellar as usual! Watching that top-layer getting pulled up was stressful. And seeing rotting balsa still bind to fiberglass while fully saturated demonstrates some peculiar properties. Look forward to your engineering-analysis on that one. Cheers!

[@livingforsail]

Thanks Shawn! Yeah, I was pretty amazed by the strength of that balsa given its apparent strength. It makes you wonder how many saturated decks are out there 😳.

[@rabsmcsporrin9572]

Was this a private sale or a boat yard, I can't believe someone could sell an unseaworthy boat that would be dangerous in rough seas to someone who knows nothing about boats, luckily you came along and will fix it to a safe standard, I love the interior and I wouldn't change it, love all the timber

[@livingforsail]

This was a private sale. I was pretty certain that the deck would need to be replaced before buying the boat and we agreed on a price based on that. Yes, I hate to think that someone might have tried to take this boat into rough sees in it’s previous condition 😳. We love the interior too and will preserve as much as possible! 🙏👍🙌

[@vincentbrault6730]

This boat would cross the Atlantic everyday of the week, as-is. This said, it will be much better once the work is complete.

[@jackdbur]

There are scraper blades that you attach to your multitool that are great for sikaflex and probably will do well on your balsa core .

[@livingforsail]

I know what you mean. Worth a shot!

[@martyb3783]

Wow I am amazed at how much water is in that core. You have a big job ahead of you, but its looking great. Nice work.

[@livingforsail]

Yep. I suspect it will get easier as my sanity slips away so we can all look forward to that!! 😳.

[@Paul_C]

Oh well, seems KZbin doesn't like me. Third time (un)lucky or maybe the yacht Tally and two other letters is the reason. Leo installed two prisms, and some glorious cabinet work. PS Foamcore would be the obvious replacement.

[@livingforsail]

I’m leaning that way. Thanks! 🙏🙏

[@southernpaths2986]

Editing, music and content are (as usual) top shelf. You put as much effort into the videos as you do the boat, it seems!!

[@livingforsail]

That’s very kind. Thank you very much! 🙏🙏🙏 There’s a lot of work going into both areas and I enjoy it all. The encouragement helps along the way so thank you once again. 👍🙌

[@SoBoring136]

Really top shelf content, are going to watch this guy for another 10 videos remove soaked wood and talk about screw heads. He is drip feeding you his project slowly hoping the more videos he releases grows his channel instead of quality of content being the hero

[@livingforsail]

@@SoBoring136 🤔🤣🤷‍♂️

[@donaldhoudek2889]

As expected, another GREAT video!

[@livingforsail]

Thanks so much 🙏🙌

[@markbuskens6070]

The reason the balsa is harder to get up is because the resin goes through the end grain balsa when it is put down it the wet glass … the part you are sawing off.Then the resin also comes in from the fiberglass applied to the inside because that is the top layer when it was put together upside down.balsa is not glued in place on these older boats.

[@livingforsail]

Yeah, it makes sense. Thanks! 🙏

[@spencerallen4459]

I am thinking ya’ll just need to cut from hull all the deck AND cockpit. After removing all of what you want to save (hatches &hardware) and then go through all the bulkheads in same form. Once there you can figure out WHAT is viable on the hull to leave. Only caveat would be spalls to maintain hull shape! I can see the fun you are having. I am just trying to help you from doing a whole lot of piece meal repetition and just going for it. Cheaper and Faster. Spencer

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the feedback! Cheers. 🙏👍

[@johnharris2337]

Is the damp in the cap as well ? Have you heard of Sailing Magic Carpet, they did the exact same, had some really good remedies on their deck, rail, fixings into the deck to prevent water. I’m sure with your on it. Love it

[@livingforsail]

The bulwark has some moisture in it also. The construction in there is very different and I’m still trying to assess that. I’be seen the Magic Carpet refit also. They do amazing work and have actually dropped in to say hello. The cape George is constructed a bit differently but the idea to remove rot and replace with good materials remains the same. Cheers 👍🙏🙌

[@936anyst]

I think you were the first to comment... great vid, glad I found your channel

[@livingforsail]

You've got me on a technicality there... We will give you the credit! Thanks for watching. Glad to have you aboard.

[@seanhanlon5867]

You've got your work cut out for you on this one mate 💪👊

[@livingforsail]

Yes indeed. Pun intended?? 😳🤣

[@seanhanlon5867]

@@livingforsail a natural event 😂👍

[@pauld9530]

All that water logged ply and balsa must be adding alot of weight

[@livingforsail]

Yes. Without question! I’ve thought about weighing a certain sized section in the future to get an idea of that.

[@ShinLeeChan]

I really liked this one, more action involved. At this rate you are going to remove the whole deck...IAre you already considered a whole deck rebuild in sandwich? 'cause well, the lower soft fiberglass isn't good either. I'm surprised that the interior looks so good with all that humidity. I guess old wood and a good owner make a big difference.

[@livingforsail]

Yes, I am committed to a full deck core replacement at this point. The lower skin will get some spot repairs and probably one more layer of 1708 before the core goes back in.

[@nmauch]

Any thought to make that first bulkhead watertight? Might be a good safety feature.

[@livingforsail]

I like the idea. I’ll look into that a bit.

[@tbd-1]

Kinda makes sense-plywood in places that need reinforcement (hatch, windlass) and balsa everywhere else.

[@livingforsail]

Yeah, I wonder if their will be plywood around the other hatches too… 🤔

[@cartertanya1258]

Hi, when you but the hatches back , advise you use neoprene hatch gasket . Easy to remove and takes up any movement. Seal is excellent

[@livingforsail]

Thanks! 🙏

[@jackdbur]

Only if you sail in temperate places it dies real fast in the tropics and its horrible to remove the glue layer, your best bet is probably byutl tape it stays flexible under all conditions and is easily cleaned up.

[@robertscholz4486]

It's always the last screw that strips!!!! All of that soaking wet core is worrisome ... in particular with regards to my last comment about moisture wicking into the gunwale core that the stanchions are bolting into for anchoring. The first time that i saw you grab the demo chisel, I was honestly worried about possibly damaging the inner skin of the fiberglass, but after seeing how well that the wet balsa still holds, I understand the choice of tool. I'm curious about what you intend to use as a new core material -- after what we have seen so far, I'm sure that you are never going to want to go through this again -- even for a small section. So what are you thinking of using? Divinycell, Coosa, Nomex Honeycomb, Airex, UltraBoard, Honylite Aluminum Honeycomb, balsa core, or marine plywood ... the choices are almost endless. Keep up the great work!!

[@livingforsail]

I agree. I will try to get more Info on the bulwark construction. I don’t think it’s the same core type construction that we see on the deck. The ply in there is a bit of a mystery at the moment as to why it’s even there in the first place… I will be looking for a core material that has less issues with water intrusion! Cheers! 🙏👍🙌

[@srperk6163]

I’m not understanding why they used plywood all those small blocks.

[@livingforsail]

Cheap… easy… laying around the yard already… It would have been fine for a long long time had it not been for the water. The 1000+ screws for the teak deck was the death sentence to these and many other wood decks of the era.

[@peterfrebold]

.... curious as to where you think the moisture had ingress, was it at the front and has just seeped back. Would not think it entered around the hatch seeing that it is raised. As I mentioned, am curious ... thx for the share .. as always .. never stop dreaming, just dream bigger .. have fun be safe, save our oceans ....

[@livingforsail]

Hi again Peter. Thanks for your continued interest in the project! I suspect that the water has been coming through the literally thousands of screw holes in the deck from the old teak. After that the plywood provides easy access to other areas since the grain runs laterally. The balsa is supposed to prevent movement of the water too much. We will see. 🙏👍🙌

[@peterfrebold]

@@livingforsail .... Ha!, well of course .. had completely slipped my mind that there was a teak deck before .... thx for your reply ..... make it a rewarding week .....

[@mark571961]

At 8.33 pounds (or 3.78 kilograms) per gallon, how much additional weight was the boat carrying with a water-logged deck core?

[@livingforsail]

Really interesting question. I’ve wondered about this too. I estimate that there is approximately 12 cubic feet of balsa decking on the boat. From a quick search, saturated balsa can hold up to 400% its weight in water. So,that could be up to an additional 30lb/ft3 so an extra 360 lbs of water in the deck? Or 40+ gallons of water! 😳. Kind of crazy when you think about it. 🙌👍

[@renexxx2017]

Hi Where do you stop ripping the deck out? Or do you continue till its become dry?

[@livingforsail]

Hi. Yep, we cut until there is no more wet core, or my knees give up. Whatever comes first 😳🤣

[@renexxx2017]

@@livingforsail let’s hope for the first😀

[@charlesmcdonald5465]

Dang do you have to do the whole deck?

[@livingforsail]

It’s looking that way.

[@alanmcn17]

I think you can sand and reuse those fiberglass skins you’re taking up from the deck

[@livingforsail]

Yeah, I’m thinking about that too. This one is a bit strange, it looks like they grafted it into the old deck mold. The first run of boats had a flush hatch here made from teak. The later models had this fiberglass/lewmar hatch. I’ll show you what I mean in a future video. Thanks!!

[@ShinLeeChan]

I wouldn't reuse any soaked wet fiberglass. It could be prone to fail or be affected by osmosis at some point. If I were him, I'd consider the whole deck demolition and redo it in sandwich all at once. Problem solved and long lasting results, zero infiltrations, all dry and new. The question is: is it worth?

[@robertgranafei2781]

How do you plan to rebuild the deck? Simply laying coring and glass over the remaining inter-skin will not result is a substantial structure. Seems to me you will need to construct a deck clamp with beams to support the deck. Similar to what Magic Carpet did. It must be a uni-body construct to withstand the forces which are directed length wise as well as cross the beam. I am looking forward to see how you solve the problem. Good luck.

[@livingforsail]

The trick will be getting the new core bonded well to the existing lower skin. Vacuum may be useful there but presents other challenges just getting that to work… we will see. The fiberglass sandwiched construction is really strong when it’s finished and we will have specs from Bob Perry and some other experts to make sure it’s all strong enough to do the job. Magic carpet is a totally different construction technique with essentially a wooden boat style deck and cabin. I appreciate the interest in the project and the feedback. 🙏👍🙌

[@ianchristie2352]

How long has the boat been on the hard, also was it covered?

[@livingforsail]

It was moved to its current location in the fall of 2021 and was rained on until the fall of 2022. I don’t suspect it’s ever been covered before.

[@nutsandbolts432]

What core material are you going back with? Plywood vs Balsa vs Foam vs solid glass. Advantages and disadvantages to each from the perspective of someone with a ME degree. Also, why are you replacing the hatch vs refurbish it. Going bigger / smaller or different design (aka flush hatch)? Excellent editing and videography btw.

[@livingforsail]

I will likely be replacing with foam core. I agree that they all have ups and downs and there is no silver bullet when it comes to core. The hatches are original and worn throughout. I could make due with just replacing the crazed lenses but I have already secured new hatches on eBay at close out prices and considering g the balance of time/money it just makes more sense to me this way. Thanks for watching and for the feedback. 🙏👍

[@nutsandbolts432]

@@livingforsail I’m asking about cores and hoping you may touch on it in a future video from an engineering perspective. This would be great info for anyone attempting a similar project. There is conflicting information online as for the “best” solution. For most people, it comes down to pricing and availability. For others, their choice is to go back with the way the factory did it, because it was good enough. Given the wide range of options, how would you advise someone on what to choose?

[@livingforsail]

@@nutsandbolts432 that’s actually exactly what I have planned. We are doing something a little different this week, but I’m planning to have that video out in 2 weeks so you will hopefully find that one useful. Cheers!

[@cartertanya1258]

Hi again , are you using foam core to replace the balsa,

[@livingforsail]

Welcome back. I’m leaning towards foam and will be looking at options in the next video.

[@cartertanya1258]

Closed cell foam isn't the cheapest option, but it's the best . As long as you bed it down on the glass you have uncovered with epoxy , put support under the glass ,as you'd have to with anything else to stop it bowing away . Your deck will never leak . All fixings to be over drilled and epoxied . As I said earlier message . Ask if you need any info .

[@livingforsail]

@@cartertanya1258 Thank you. Yep, that sounds like the plan. I will do everything possible to prevent water from ever getting back in. 👍

[@pierremitham2964]

When you start putting things back together, I recommend Robertson screws, Much better to work with. I refer to philips head screws as "satan's" head screws. I've lost count of the number of 40 year old screws I've stripped out on my boat, no matter how gentle you go. Philips screws are the worst!

[@livingforsail]

I am a fan of Robertsons. I think they are a Canadian invention? Could be wrong about that… I agree that they work pretty well but do also strip out occasionally. I like them because they “sit” on the driver so you can one-hand install much easier. Thanks for the feedback. 🙏🙌👍

[@mr.e7022]

Are you going to rip out the whole wet deck all the way before you start to add the new core and glass? Any intention to brace the deck from underneath? Mads from Sail Life did a core replacement. Also would vacuum bagging be the way to get good bonding of the new core and glass? Also I think you did mention at one time the new core material, divinycell? ?

[@livingforsail]

I will probably start laying in some new sections shortly but we will see. I’ll talk more about the core options in the next video. I may need to add some bracing but am hoping to use vacuum since that will naturally conform to the original shape easier. We will see… I’ll at least do a dry run to see if the theory is good and we will go from there. 👍

[@MBailote]

Did you know the deck/core was this wet when you bought the boat? Just curious. Keep up the good work 🤙🏼

[@livingforsail]

I had a pretty good hunch it was mostly wet and negotiated that into the price. It is probably going to be as bad as my worst case scenario… oh well. Thanks for supporting the channel! 👍🙏

[@MBailote]

@@livingforsail here’s some words of encouragement, I just replaced 90 percent of my deck wet core on my 1977 Transworld 41 😂 Screwed in teak deck’s was never a good lasting idea.

[@livingforsail]

@@MBailote right on! Good effort! How’d it turn out?!

[@MBailote]

@@livingforsail Solid with a sense of accomplishment 😎

[@livingforsail]

@@MBailote I’m looking forward to that 👍

[@extremelydave]

If you have seen the KZbin videos for Yaba sailing, it would appear so far that you will be doing as much or more to your vessel as they have done. Good lord.

[@livingforsail]

“There has to be a harder way?!”

[@imdguin]

"Mush!" 🤒

[@livingforsail]

🤣

[@RR-or5ip]

whenever I am removing screws there is always one that makes my projects take 4x as long

[@livingforsail]

Haha. Right?! 👍

[@bendaves77]

If the entire thing was balsa core those decks would have been spongy.. due to mahoganys rot resistance it didn't rot like the balsa.. the mahogany comes out much easier and without the devastation to the inner fiberglass..

[@livingforsail]

That has been my experience… the mahogany seems to only be at the bow and as I go back I am finding balsa that is wet but has amazing peel strength. Removing it without damage is challenging…

[@livingforsail]

Who would like to be the first to comment on this video??

[@redshifttrucking4537]

To what extent was the wet deck known before you bought the boat? If known, do you now feel you knocked enough off the asking price? You are terrifying me over buying an old fiberglass boat.... maybe I need to go back to looking at aluminum boats...

[@livingforsail]

It was assumed to be wet and we adjusted the previously agreed pre-survey price down to compensate for it. I’m ok with the adjustment (more would have been ok too, but it was enough) There are a ton of factors to consider. A boat that never had teak decks is probably fine. If the teak has been well maintained it could be ok. This one was WAY past due. Make no mistake… it is a real concern if you’re shopping and difficult to know for certain. Almost impossible without destructive testing…

[@redshifttrucking4537]

@@livingforsail That's a good point about the teak decks.... that deck had screws everywhere, no wonder the wet goes all across the deck. If you could get enough compensation off the price, the work is do-able, but it's a lot of time, and my body isn't getting younger.... You are going to end up with a deck that you know is good for many years to come and was done right, since you did it yourself.

[@livingforsail]

@@redshifttrucking4537 exactly. I strangely enjoy this kind of work and will be pleased to know it’s 100%. Some of the people that I’ve met through the channel have paid $20-$30k for full deck replacements on this model. Those were all several years ago. It could be more these days…

[@bryanhollingsworth4921]

Please dont use the balsa to recore. Its the cheapest route but divincell and other synthetics will not absorb water. I have recored two boats the expense is worth it.

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the feedback. I am leaning towards a foam core. I can’t stand the thought of anything that is susceptible to water damage. Cheers. 👍🙌🙏

[@nikolatesla5553]

This looks ugly. I can't help wondering how far back all this rot extends. I'm not a big fan of going inch by inch. Maybe I'm wrong. But it seens to me that you will save time by taking cores every few feet to find out how much of your decks are rotted. And then be ready to rip out large sections. It may be more expensive material wise but your time and your sanity is a lot more important.

[@livingforsail]

It is ugly. Haha. From walking around and sounding out areas of the deck now that the teak is off I will be shocked if it’s not ALL due for replacement.

[@nikolatesla5553]

@@livingforsail Ouch! Sorry to hear that. I've done a lot of construction work. Just not on boats. So admittedly, I can't say whether my suggestion is applicable. Still it's undoubtedly easier to take out and put in large sections than it is to tediously take the deck apart tiny bit at a time. I've watched every one of your episodes. I look forward to seeing what you're going to do next. Is it time for the Sawzall?

[@livingforsail]

@@nikolatesla5553 it is what it is 🤷‍♂️. I appreciate your perspective and I will weigh it out as I go. It is probably the fastest to just cut it out all at once but it is difficult to work on it with nowhere to stand and I only have 2 courses of scaffolding at the moment. … we will see. I appreciate your interest in the work! 🙏

[@Luzt.]

Sit, it is clear by your use of the tools that you have no real real-life experience in doing these kind of works. You work slow and you put emphasis on not so important elements. Or maybe you are just following some YT optimized scenario? Using carbon steel bits with SS screws is a crime. Using wrong number of bit is a misdemeanor (to use your wife's vocabulary). Also it would be great if you put some kind of work-hours counter and bill of materials, related to renovation only, so that people can attach to it some price tag (and cool down in the process). Liked and subscribed.

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the VERY DIRECT feedback. Haha. It’s true that carbon steel bits can leave marks on stainless over time. SS driver bits can be had for a bit more $$$ and are not easy to find (at least around here).

[@Luzt.]

I suggest that you check Wera stainless bit check. For some reason they are cheap second hand over here, i.e. in Europe. I do respect you and your work. Maybe I just think in terms of value added and sale price. In any case you do top quality job. Disregard my comment. Good Łuck 🙂.

[@livingforsail]

@@Luzt.I’ll check out the Wera bits. I have a few of their tools but I think they’re less common over here. Thanks.