Heat Pumps, Hot Water & Electric Usage!

[@scottcompany4040]

Nice and clear as usual. Thanks. I have a similar system - Heat Pump with 300ltr HW cylinder, 5.8kW of solar panels and 11.8kWh of storage battery Despite being an all electric house with an EV, Hot Tub, two freezers, two fridges, washer, dryer, double oven and 5 'burner' hob and all the other stuff we have these days, my last 30 days of use have cost me the princely sum of £26.15 I have a Zappi charge point for my EV and this harvests surplus solar during the day so that on average since January my car has cost me 2p per mile to run. My previous diesel Skoda cost me close to 14p per mile for fuel. I have 'discussions' about my set-up in the pub on a regular basis, trying to explain that this stuff actually works. Even on really overcast days my Solar generates about 0.5Kw and on cold (-7c) days during the winter the heat pump keeps us toasty warm. They'll nod and smile when I'm explaining this (again) then they'll buy a new gas boiler or gas-guzzling SUV

[@theta2170]

Did you use a specific company to supply and install the full system? Are there many that do this? I wouldn't want to have to choose the equipment myself as an example.

[@scottcompany4040]

@@theta2170 I did use one company but I won't mention their name because they are rubbish. However the equipment is excellent. To be fair you don't need one company for this type of set-up. Most people would get their solar and battery from one company and their Heat Pump from another.

[@waqasahmed939]

RE : the gas boiler Tbh that's understandable because if I went to a heat pump, I'd have to upgrade all my pipes and radiators RE: The SUV Not as understandable though lack of destination chargers is an issue. I need to drive a 100 mile round trip every two weeks or so + driving within my parent's county too. In an affordable car like a VW e up, that would JUST make it there and back , and in winter it might not even get there and back . My parents live in a terraced house too which means charging it is difficult. I've currently got a 2011 Toyota Yaris, and realistically as much as I want an EV, the EV that's most "suited" to me is the Kia E-Niro and I'm hardly going to pay for an expensive car regardless of what type of car it is. I don't drive that often but I do these 100 mile round trips frequently enough. I also see no real reason to change my current car. I deliberately downgraded from a Prius because the insurance on a Yaris is dirt cheap In that sense, I'm more likely to get a hybrid or a PHEV for my next car largely because I'm not someone who buys new cars. I do also like parking my car some 20 minutes away from Manchester City centre, and people who live there aren't very happy about it despite it being free and legal to park there. A cheap car is much better for that

[@nigelbullock4411]

Well arnt you the lucky one, personally I am sick of hearing about how well all you entitled well heeled yuppy types are doing with your EV's and heat pumps. Please keep your bragging to yourself.

[@dancesnitch45]

Thanks for this insight. We’re about to embark on a large extension renovation. And converting our 1952 semi detached into a modern home. We’ve been quoted to installed: 11x Eurener 450w panels Spanish 1x 5.2kw battery Givenergy 1x Givenergy Inverter It will generate approximately 4167kwh of energy yearly. We don’t have an EV. We are thinking of having everything else you have. How many solar panels do you use? What brand heat pump? Does your shower pressure run from the Mains water, into cylinder, heated by the air source heat pump? We have a combi now and I hate the pressure and fact we can’t have multiple heat taps on at once. Overall, do you think we should switch to solar and heat pump? Thanks for your support on this.

[@Brinslade]

Sounds like a great system, and very well explained. Those trolls that only ever listen to the biased ideas in their own heads will never learn, so just ignore their nasty little snipes. Those viewers who want to learn about this newer technology will find your videos very useful.

[@TrevorHa]

I have an ASHP which just keeps my hot water tank at a pretty constant temp, never ran out. There is an electric boost to make it hotter for things like legionella cycle but that's it, never boosted it manually, never scheduled it to heat up in my cheap rate window. In fact I do not treat it any differently to my previous property with a combi boiler. Last month hot water usage was 59kwh all of which came from solar or home storage battery. 3 adults in my house, water usage is random I shower pre 6am, my wife after 6pm, my son, no idea.

[@robertwright6113]

I have an air source heat pump linked to underfloor heating and Mixergy hot water tank. I love the system. I have been getting a COP of 4.5 at times. I’m getting a bit bored of all the “it won’t work because” comments.

[@Richardincancale]

Yup same with my Daikin system. Can manually boost it or have a setting so if the hot water tank temperature falls below a threshold it can boost automatically. The heat pump can give water up to 70 degrees but we run it at 55 degrees to increase efficiency - COP around 4 just now!!

[@AB-yt4hd]

We have an electric instant heater (9kW) with a grey water heat exchanger. In summer, I use 0.8kWh for 2 showers (so 0.4kWh for 2 showers) and in winter less than 2kWh for 2 (1kWh each). The good thing with this is that it is cost effective to buy and cost effective to run, and I don't need to use electricity to keep the water warm in a tank. We shower at 22h00, at the beginning of the offpeak. I still have a heat pump in my ventilation system (thermodynamic double flow ventilation) and this is cost effective too (I live in the north east of France, so we have cold winters).

[@manikdesign]

Keeping it simple is always the key. I like your system. I wish I did the same because my system is so complicated that my wife prays that I live a long life because no heating engineer could ever fix my system of (loft hot air recycling 5kw heat pump 120litre triple insulated water tank which is force fed with hot air from the black roof tiles. I need to call khaby lame!

[@davidscott3292]

Yes, an electric shower is simple and cheap to install, doesn't involve stored hot water, and with a few minutes use doesn't use much power so isn't costing much even at normal tariffs.

[@stephenlee5929]

It used to be common with gas powered central heating with a hot water tank, to have an (electric) immersion heater, which was for the most part never switched on, its just a cheap to instal safety blanket. Its a bit like having a torch or box of candles. Thanks for update.

[@edc1569]

Still is

[@cannamorecamping5029]

I took the fuse out. The gas boiler can reheat the tank in 10-15 minutes but people used to put the immersion on to 'boost' it.

[@stephenlee5929]

@@cannamorecamping5029 I think it was there in case for some reason the boiler was not working, I know it makes little sense.

[@tomsdaddy]

A couple of 'amusing' points about my current search for a decent heat pump installer ... Firstly, a couple of weeks ago, I had the guy who implied that it was (almost) his 'duty' to sell me as large an ASHP as he could .... And then this morning I had a guy call me who I had been referred to by a manufacturer (!) who told me that his 'Rule of Thumb' was that I should "Triple the Size of every Radiator" ... To which I said, "Thanks." "Not doing that." "Bye ! ..." There are some amazingly brassy people out there ... !

[@Jaw0lf]

I have moved my ASHP to heat during my cheap overnight times and even stopped using my Eddi that diverts solar in the most part. In saving energy, it seemed carazy to have around 8kWh put in through the Eddi but only 2kWh if done via the ASHP. So now I use Home Assistant to monitor the excess solar and turn on the ASHP hot water, then once a week the Eddi runs for the legionella cycle. This can run from excess solar in the summer but the main heat is from ASHP.

[@A.P.Garland]

Excellent video. Thank you. To what temperature do you heat your domestic hot water tank (barring any Legionella settings that you may or may not use). And what flow temperature do you heat it with from your heat pump please?

[@MikeGleesonazelectrics]

Agree with your comments.. During this sunny spell we have a surplus of solar anyway, 4kWh house battery is full and 2 x evs at 80%. so a bit academic really whether we use the immersion or the heat pump to heat the water. There may be an argument that heating via immersion saves wear on the heat pump I suppose. We have a mixergy tank with very good stratification and therefore accuracy of the hot water %, therefore I have set my hot water tank to 50% to heat overnight during the cheap rate (via heat pump) and top it up during the day using solar to 100%, both to 51C. Some nights, depending upon use, there's no overnight heating required at all. I know its fine tuning and prob only saves a few pence/day but may as well.. plus I'm a control freak ;-)

[@stevenbarton2398]

My Vaillant heat pump was installed last Oct, we have a COP for heating of 4.2 and hot water COP of 3.8. We have four adults in the house all the time, so we leave the hot water on continuous and we are never without hot water. Like you the house in the summer months runs off solar and battery. During May we were typically importing 0.3 kWh from the grid in a day, and that included charging the EV.

[@marvinsamuels1237]

Seems very straight forward to me. Great work as always EVM.

[@mikequorn]

Thanks! Is there a reason you don't use power from your PVs to heat water using your heat pump? Surely that's a good option, esp in summer?

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

All that goes into the battery. Which if needed can turn power the heat pump at 3/4 times the efficiency of a solar divert option.

[@MartinWard-x5t]

Great video and explanation. Do you have to worry about Legionella? Do you need an extra hot cycle? Thanks, Martin

[@tonybarton3746]

Cheers evm great update 😊👍👍

[@clarethomer07]

How does a ASHP system affect water pressure? I am struggling to understand how having your water cylinder below where most of your outlets works. I assume there is no issue but can't seem to find anyone talking about this?

[@simbee3634]

It will be a 'closed' system, so the hot water pressure is the same as the mains - not reliant on gravity, like the old 'open' systems.

[@neilfennell6833]

Our 5 year old ASHP is run in exactly the same way as you describe. You didn’t say what max temperature your water is heated to but ours is 50C. But, it is also recommended that the water temperature be increased to 60C every 7 days, in order to ward off potential legionella. This is achieved by using the immersion heater to boost the 50C to 60C. This is achieved at the cheaper overnight rate. So is yours different to ours? I am a bit sceptical about the legionella thing, as I believe legionella is really only a problem with stagnant water, and most people’s hot water systems don’t remain static.

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

60c thing is pointless at home. Especially as legionella dies within 2 hours at 50c. My heat pump can go to 75c so it does it all if I wanted. It’s also got a separate legionella setting that’s never used. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXvIqpaVmKx8g7c Watch that.

[@johngordon9987]

Our heat pump water heater has two resistive elements it can use, but there is an option to disable them. We also have an "energy saver" option where it can decide based on ambient temperature and hot water level whether to use the heat pump, one or both elements or a combination. I've tried both heat pump only and energy saver over a week, and honestly haven't seen any difference, but winter here maybe doesn't get cold enough for the resistive elements to make more sense than the heat pump.

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

Resistive will never make sense over the heat pump. That’s 100% efficient at best vs 200-400%. Even in winter.

[@johngordon9987]

@@ElectricVehicleMan When looked at as a static system, I agree, but the manufacturer of the water heater is adamant that their "energy saver" mode is more efficient "in typical households" and I think that is the key here - it is using demand sensing to optimize as water is drawn out of the tank. If the water temperature in the tank is lower because it is recovering from, say, an earlier shower, then when a second person tries to use it they will naturally consume more from the hot tank feed to get the same temperature water for their shower, meaning the heater has to heat a larger volume of water. If their patented trick really works, they may be able to save some energy by reducing the amount of hot water pulled from the tank while it is recovering. There are a lot of discussions about this mode online (the manufacturer is a company called Rheem) and some anecdotal evidence that it does reduce energy. For us, it didn't seem to make any difference compared to pure heat pump mode. A lot depends on the demand pattern for hot water, but modeling the system as a dynamic one is certainly more realistic.

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

@@johngordon9987 With a time of day tariff, efficiency becomes second to cost.

[@johngordon9987]

@@ElectricVehicleMan Your time of day tariffs seem more limited than ours. We have a narrow peak period (5pm to 9pm Monday to Friday) when we pay 50¢/kWh, the rest of the time we pay only 14.5¢/kWh. I find it hard to believe the demand on the grid matches the times they give you cheaper rates in your tariff = seems like they’re not really passing on the savings (or perhaps they use the lower demand times to average down the peak price).

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

@@johngordon9987 7.5p for 6 hours now and 40p for rest of the day. They do other Tod tariffs but this is a steal with an EV and home battery. UK average is about 30p at the moment.

[@MCSMIK]

We're looking for a hot water solution that compliments our Air To Air system that is getting installed this week. As we currently don't have a water tank and just use a combo boiler space is also becoming a question, as I would like to avoid wasting a lot of it for a water tank... I can't really find a good solution as yet. I've heard of smaller heat pumps that will do just the hot water... Maybe I can pair that with a sunamp or something

[@Martinedo_]

not a bad idea, we are looking also into it, but in opposite, to somehow integrate cold water to our air recuperation so it works as a cheap and healthy coolant in the summer.

[@timoliver8940]

Have you looked at the Mixergy hot water tanks? I changed to one last year when my electric ancient immersion heater went bang. I can adjust the temperature easily and I decide how much water to heat and I can heat from electricity, gas (which we don’t have here) solar PV or ASHP. I have also now got a MiEngergy Eddi that is waiting to be installed to divert my Solar PV to charge the car or heat the water using as little as 0.1kW feed from the panels instead of having to wait until I’m generating 1.6kW as I do now.

[@simon7790]

There are hot water only heat pump water tanks. Daikin and Dimplex for example do them.

[@sjdiy8230]

Sunamp is useful as a space saver, but it is very heavy. The up side is you get mains pressure hot water without the annual service that is recommended for an unvented hot water cylinder. If you can find space for it Mixergy have the iHP, hot water cylinder with a integrated heat pump. Not a cheap option, suggest it’s best for a well insulated property. Daikin are apparently launching their Multi+ a multi split ASHP with up to 3 air to air units plus a 90/120L wall mounted hot water tank, this summer. They say it’s aimed small flats, unfortunately probably too late for you. Another option when your existing combi boiler needs replacing is Rinnai direct fired water heat for instantaneous hot water. Have a look for content from Dameon Hill that covers the Rinnai and other integrated heat pump cylinders.

[@carolparillon3060]

Hello love your videos. Just one question is your immersion part of the unitower? Or did you install a separate immersion?

[@runskicakesleep]

I have a Midea heat pump, installed last October. Like yours, the immersion heater is disabled. The controller is configured to usually heat the water up to 50 degrees, but when solar energy is plentiful as it has been these past few weeks, then I increase this to 55 degrees. (In theory, once a week it should heat the water to 60 degrees once a week for Legionella control, but I've disabled this). I'm on the Octopus Cosy tariff, which is more expensive at off peak, but the off peak window is larger.

[@theta2170]

55 should be enough to kill off legionella really, which also takes a couple of weeks to form anyway. 50 is a little low.

[@JohnR31415]

Certainly the majority since the grant needs a hot water capable heat pump

[@philipbroggio9315]

We do exactly the same as you . We always use heat pump at night for around an hour to get to 50⁰c using roughly 1-2 KWh @ 8.25p/kWh. We get on average 2.34 kWh heat for every kWh of electric . We also have solar so do top up during day for free using the immersion but this is not triggered by the heat pump ever. Significantly cheaper than gas 🤓

[@stephenrudd9378]

Very interesting video, can I please ask what size was your old gas boiler and what is the ASHP also is your ASHP operating at 40c or can the temperature go higher for your HWS, I understand that new cylinders made for ASHP have a better heating coil than the old cylinders.

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

My hot water is at 53c but it can go past 70c. HP is a 5kW unit.

[@richiep3520]

Both of our showers are electric Triton showers and happy enough with that. I don't think we will be retrofitting a full system central heating system to include the showers as we just got the bathrooms updated. So would you be able to clear up something.. Would we be able to get a air to water system that can just be for central heating and keep the house warm? I'm sure that's not a complicated answer but in relation to buying a unit, because we will not be relying for it to use for showers could we get away with a smaller unit/tank? We are currently oil boiler for central heating. Appreciate any information or advice.

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

Same setup but with smaller hot water tank. Configurable as you want.

[@richiep3520]

@@ElectricVehicleMan thank you for the response.

[@odetterollinson-davies4543]

Can I ask you a few questions about your heat pump install? Had the contractors round for a final pre install visit & not entirely convinced with what they are telling me….

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

It should all be in the heat calculations they give you.

[@antoniopalmero4063]

How much more expensive is a heat pump compared to a new gas boiler ? How long is the guarantee on heat pump ?.

[@LudvigIndestrucable]

My father bought the cheapest heatpump he could find and it was years ago, his immersion heater was disconnected from the power before Christmas, they didn't need to connect it back over winter.

[@waqasahmed939]

03:40 So one of the reasons why a heat pump will be the absolute last thing I do, is because I'm on Octopus tracker and I'm already paying less than 4p/kWh for gas You're also only realistically paying 7.5p/kWh because you've got a compatible EV. My main aim is to make my house super air tight and insulated first, before I get a heat pump My rationale is that if I adopt a PassivHaus ethos, I'm reducing my energy requirements for heating, especially when I get an MVHR Then when I have finally done everything I could possibly do to the house within reason , that's when I'd get a heat pump ie:I won't opt for PassivHaus windows but instead "high quality triple glazed ones" because of diminishing returns It also means introducing more ventilation, and having less requirement for AC too. Once that's done, I'll get a heat pump because that's the greener choice but if I got a heat pump now, I'd essentially have something that's too big if I'm doing all these efficiency changes I could then get something smaller, and hopefully even more efficient than the ones we have now. It'd certainly be nice to have a heat pump that could have say a COP of 8, and performing at a COP of 4 in the winter

[@andrewwalls6676]

Bit new to this. However, how do you manage the legionella cycle? Does that need a routine heat-up beyond what the heat pump can deliver? Or can that cycle run entirely using the heat pump?

[@edwyncorteen1527]

the controller for my Mitsubishi Ecodan has a Legionella setting, it only uses the heat pump.

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

Don’t need to do one, however, if I did it’s a separate weekly schedule you can use. The heat pump goes to 75c so getting to 60c is easy.

[@nervousfrog101]

Quick question, excluding the legionella cycle what temperature are you heating the hot water to?

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

53c

[@hooksforestchin]

Two main issues with heat pumps (apart from cost) are going to be the space required - couldn't have them in a flat or back to back terrace, for a start, and then the water tank. With combi boilers, a lot of tanks have been removed and the space for them repurposed or never there in new builds. We need electric combi boilers with the same levels of efficiency to be a practical replacement for most homes

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

They can be wall mounted and even roof mounted ones are coming now. But not every house can possibly have one, nothing is one size fits all. Electric boiler can never be more than 100% efficient as it creates the heat. That would be impossible. A heat pump moves heat so something has to exist outside.

[@michaelbond6842]

We have a heat pump in a 2 up 2 down mid terrace. It's a tight fit but possible. Would NEVER go back to gas. I'm not sure there are many back to back terraces any more, but they *could* benefit from a community heating approach, like the deep ex mines used in the north east

[@hooksforestchin]

@@michaelbond6842 What do you do for hot water though, have you got a tank? That will be an issue for many, a lot of newer builds don't even have the cupboards as you don't need them with a combi. There was a prototype electric combi I saw on Fully Charged a couple of years ago, but it was the size of a washing machine!

[@michaelbond6842]

@@hooksforestchin we have a tank for HW. Solar pV plus divert (iBoost) for many years in cupboard under stairs. Same space now used for the ASHP tanks (4 in all). V tight squeeze but it worked. Same issue with bro-in-law's house. Had combi boiler, but had full ASHP and takes installed in 2 up 2 down mid terrace even smaller than ours. Just shows what can be done with a little creative thinking.

[@briangriffiths114]

Are you a professional trainer within your IT role as your explanations are always very clear and easily understood?

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

I can easily turn things off and on again.

[@TheHughsie]

Hi what’s your export tarrif are you on SEG or Outgoing?

[@markosborne7311]

Same method i heat my dhw. Emersion i see as a backup in case of breakdown.

[@richardforrest4670]

Would you consider a solar diverter?

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

Pointless with a home battery. Heat pump can treble the excess solar compared to an immersion heater.

[@bernardcharlesworth9860]

Thanks 😊

[@keyserxx]

Just a thought but what is the real world price difference night/colder outside/cheap rate vs day/warmer outside/normal rate?

[@robinbennett5994]

Day time power costs 4 times more. The temperature change would have to be huge to cause the COP to change that much.

[@creakybones2407]

There are too many variables in that question for any to give an answer. 😊

[@80y3r9]

Worried youre going to sell me more ball trimming devices when youre in the bathroom

[@leejmoffatt]

Does your immersion heating keep the water hot throughout the day ?

[@sib4897]

Have you watched the video? He mentions in it that his immersion heater is disabled and is never used; the heat pump is always used.

[@R.-.]

I didn't think you could turn the immersion heater off, since regular heat cycles of hot water tanks >60C are needed to comply with health and safety regulations for legionella.

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

The heat pump can go to 75c. Prob worth watching this too. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXvIqpaVmKx8g7c

[@hmallett]

I don’t believe that there are any water heating regulations for legionella in a domestic setting.

[@chriss4949]

Worth noting then that if someone specs a Low Temp HP ( Daikin 6kw for example) it wont do 75deg so would have to run IH for pasteurisation cycle once a week

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

@@chriss4949 You don’t need to do one in 99% of situations.

[@michaelbond6842]

My heat pump set up won't get to anti legionella temp as it is, but I DO use an immersion heater that takes it to 65°C using pV solar once the house battery is full ... (Solar iBoost)

[@johnpedelty3866]

What is the life expectancy and annual service cost of a heat pump?

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

15+ years I think. Can get a 10 year warranty. I think my first will be £130.

[@johnpedelty3866]

@@ElectricVehicleMan Thank you.

[@michaelbond6842]

I was quoted £175+VAT for a service or a year old heat pump. This was from the installers (I can't recommend them.) I will shop around.

[@ALMX5DP]

Does that heat pump double as your HVAC as well? Can heat pumps be dual purposed like that?

[@robinbennett5994]

IIRC EVman's heat pump is an air-to-water system, so it runs hot water through radiators. You can run it in reverse to push cold water through the radiators, but the way radiators are plumbed means the cold water stays at the bottom so there's not much surface area for temperature exchange. Also you get condensation on the cold surfaces. HeatGeek did some interesting testing with their system during last year's heat wave. You pretty much never need to cool a house in Yorkshire anyway.

[@ALMX5DP]

@@robinbennett5994 ah makes sense, thank you!

[@Fishbait075]

If only you could have explained that with a short video format! 🤣

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

5-6 mins is hardly long.

[@hmallett]

@@ElectricVehicleMan Yeah but could you make it under 1 minute? And in portrait? 🤣

[@80y3r9]

Dont think he got it..

[@barrymurton8988]

Even if you turned your emersion heater for a boost it wouldn’t cost a fortune!

[@Kevin-dp1vy]

On a related subject if electricity companies can supply power at 7.5 pence at night, why cannot they do it during the day?

[@hooksforestchin]

Because they've got loads of it at night that no one wants and there's no way to store it and then during the day, high demand (offices, factories, cooking etc) and to generate more means turning more power stations on, which is inefficient. As well as insulation, we should be developing and installing more battery storage at domestic levels. Relatively small, can easily fit under the stairs but also in a loft and don't need a huge amount to be able to power up your home for the rest of the day, especially if you move things like tumble dryers to overnight as well. Just remember to upgrade smoke/heat detectors if you're running lots of stuff whilst asleep.

[@robinbennett5994]

I can only imagine that this myth is based on American houses, which generally have an air-to-air heat pump for cooling, and an immersion heater.

[@ram64man]

My experience with ht heat pumps suck in really low temps for heating water, below -10 c the boost always run , also no one tells you that they only heat to 55c by default and in my model won’t heat above 60c , now we are seeing strong sun my 12kwh solar now does all my heating which still sees sub 6c at night , I’m currently heating both air to air and under floor, and air to air is far far superior for comfort as well as making thf room feel warmer, than thf old buildings open plan underfloor , due to the building and annex layout having just one source of water cylinder is just not possible, but both are 250 litre. Cylinders one is heated using the heat pump the other is heated using two solar diverters , that tank heats up far far quicker than the heat pump , when fully drained and 9c incoming cold water , it takes 4 hours to fully heat the heat pump cylinder using just the heat pump and no boost using 10 kwh energy . The other using solar diverters heats in 1 hour flat total energy 17kwh . And heats using to majority of the time from just solar , in the winter months it divers from the grid since solar drops to less than 1kwh this far north My experience l I’m selling the ht heat pump and keeping the air to air , it was a complete waste of money to heat 4000ft properly underfloor is something you like or don’t like , maybe it’s me but it kind of off gas’s the carpet, leaving a chemical smell slightly that no one tells you about . Now that is being drained , as the connection swap to a air to air in the in property . And going back to a direct heat propane for the main building 3 bathrooms high gain cylinder. With a solar diverter to heat in summer. Where I I live electric is 40c a kwh hence the 12kw array , but last year using under floor ht heat pump cost me 1100 dollars a month , on top of 250 dollars lumber for fire air to air heating a bigger area using 4 main units 800 dollars no add heating needed . I’m sure a air to air will be even more economical in the U.K. don’t be fooled especially in Scotland to go to ht heat pump , air to water is fine if you have a majority of wooden floor space,but carpet rads especially oversized still beat that , but I don’t like lukewarm rads . If you have the space and room for ducting go air to air

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

It was -15c for a few days here and my hot water was exactly the same as it is today, only it used maybe 4kWh instead of 2kWh right now. I can also go to 75c if needed. It takes about 45mins to fill the 120litre tank from empty. As I said in the video, tech moves on. What you have either is slightly older tech or installed badly.

[@ElectricVehicleMan]

It was -15c for a few days here and my hot water was exactly the same as it is today, only it used maybe 4kWh instead of 2kWh right now. I can also go to 75c if needed. It takes about 45mins to fill the 120litre tank from empty. As I said in the video, tech moves on. What you have either is slightly older tech or installed badly.

[@ram64man]

@@ElectricVehicleMan the building dates from 1870 that had been abandoned since 1989 due to the previous owner passing, the majority of the farm land was sold off to developers but 300 hectares were left with the property to be used as farm land due to the land order, when we arrived most of the heating was solid fuel based, most of the retrofit ducting had collapsed, and termites had taken over part of the old west corner that had to be demolished, the building was 1/3 demolished due to damage and then extended. being timer framed you can imagine the heat loss, last year we saw temps from -10-c to a barmy -43c, plus lake effect, like you i wanted to get away from fossil and direct heat electric , a propane tank had been installed but never fully connected or more likely ripped out when the owner died, like the uk we had a fair share of cowboys and annoyingly plex pipes the default everywhere, when my partner died of covid, I stopped working on the place for a while, came back to england then went back out there, we ended up investing 16k in a Mitsubishi eco multi-split HT and because of the footage an additional LT split, that year from dec 10 till feb 24th it was below zero and exclusively ran off the boost, we only ever saw a 1,5 cop rating, even in late march where we still saw the odd snow fall, it had climbed to 2,5, and NEVER went above 17c on the coldest days, naturally we through we had been done and called the engineers and a 3rd party that had been recommended to us by another to evaluate, as this wasn't what we had been promised, the main exchanger was swapped, and things got worse with a cop 1,8 what made matters worse is the installer tragically died in an automobile accident before we resolved the issue, he was a small family company but the loss ment they shutdown so I was left with the american distributer trying to resove all these issues, we ended up appointing a large company recommended by mitsubishi who effectively started from scratch again, in the mean time a few friends had ditched there diesel (keroseen) heaters for an air to air, there building was in worse shape than ours but it was significantly warmer, and they were seeing a cop of 3 in -20c, both of us agreed we wouldn't go down the underfloor heating route again, and after speaking with the new installer. installed air to air, multi-split 16kwh, the second winter we spend most of our time in the annax with the air to air, it didn;t stuggle once but was a real pain when we lost electric for 5 days due to super snow storm, the main building dropped to 10c on max, with the underfloor, the anax a happy 23c granted we talking a 65c delta difference but still if one can fully cope and the other be a borderline heath risk in those temps, this is why after consulting the new installer, started to remove the HT system, its never worked right from day 1, so is being brought by another who just wants to use it for the underfloor, and mitsubishi are transferring the warranty to the new owner since its being installed by one of there approved installers, we were told we would see a cop of 3.8 when installed so you can see why I felt seriously greves to get a 15

[@riazulmriddu394]

me bo, llox

[@djtaylorutube]

The point of KZbin "shorts" is to allow attention seeking girls to post clips of themselves doing random things, with a teasing thumbnail, to encourage 10 million+ views so that they get paid or entice the viewer to their other social media (OnlyFans). Err a friend told me this. ;)