HELP! ENGINE SMOKE from my FOX BODY MUSTANG! MUCH WORSE Than I Thought

[@kirkchatwin6160]

Nice work 👍👍👍

[@anthonymuro1642]

The wire plugs into the cap on coolant overflow bottle. The draw is probably the light under the sun visor. I would do plugs wires cap and rotor.

[@johnnynorsworthy6323]

Hooray you fixed it you go girl awesome

[@chadbleekiz]

Nice car! 💪🏾🙏

[@ralphpineo9584]

Check bulbs for the turn signal and or the flasher that is located in the fuse panel under and to left of the steering column.

[@staceysims7270]

Check ur fuses 4 the blinker & radio

[@79beans347]

Sounds like you need a new radio and the blinker canister in the fuse panel the round thingy lol . Great video and you should have raced that cop I bet u would have beat him but you can race him next time and love watching you spin the tires because your reaction is priceless 🤗🤗🤗

[@franciscomurillo7309]

Check the fuse box for the signal light

[@James-sir]

You can always cut the bolts shorter if they are to long

[@FredSallam]

Parasitic draw generally happens when you have multiple systems competing for current. In my 1967 Shelby GT350 Mustang I had to upgrade my alternator to 150 amp to make sure my throttle body fuel injection system and stereo had enough current to run at the same time. Judging by the frayed spark plug wires your fox body also needs new spark plug wires, cap and rotor, coil, and spark plugs-what happens is that your car’s computer is trying to constantly adjust fuel, electricity, and air to achieve a Stoichiometry based on damaged components which also can lead to premature wear of other components.

[@BruceLee-xn3nn]

I always check for arcing at night , engine running.

[@jovansolomon9871]

The plug is for your coolant level sensor. It's suppose to be plugged in on your overflow cap. For your turn signals check the flasher. It's that round thing in your fuse box under the steering wheel

[@2000blackstang]

Blinker is probably the relay that's in the fuse box under the hood. Replace that and it should work.

[@heavychevyss2784]

blinker fuse under the dAsh cost 12 bucks and is under the dashboard by the steering column

[@donnova553]

Fuse or bulb, check fuses go from there to bulb!

[@geestang2662]

Try using the hex bolts the had a size smaller to

[@bigerv6535]

Hi..your great check the fuse for your blinkers if ot that change ur flasher... Try that and see if it fix ur problem....

[@philthyco1]

Check the flasher fuse

[@r.g.5.0.h.o.51]

Check you glove box make sure the light light is out

[@phantomfox9093]

New cap rotor and plug wires will help also.

[@GirlsDigMustangs]

Yes thank you! I will plan on doing a tune-up soon! 😊

[@kevinyost5635]

You have some nice care and a cute smile

[@brandonmetz3972]

Get a separator for your plug wires after changing them to make sure they don’t touch. if they do, they can possibly melt where they meet and have cross fire between inconsistencies in the insulation which could be your power draw,

[@erichutt6783]

I have a white 87...WITH sand beige interior gt.. 🙏

[@russell11fitzgerald]

The plug is your OBD port

[@Mustangguy9702]

Disconnect the negative battery cable and hook up a multi meter in series between the ground cable and the ground on the battery. Switch the meter to amps. You wanna see .05a draw. So if your higher than that start pulling fuses one at a time until the draw disappears

[@LurchSLOWVGT]

Usually the trays at the autoparts store pull out even farther than you did and they keep boxes of bolts to refill the tray sometimes it just doesent get refilled

[@theeyeperspective]

Change the MAF sensor and plug tune up

[@GirlsDigMustangs]

I will do that! Thank you

[@jonathanluna1069]

The wire plug goes to the coolant plug

[@GirlsDigMustangs]

Thank you!

[@blainecouch1766]

The spark plug wires are old and the insulation has cracked. They spark all the time but its hard to see during the day. Replace the spark plug wires and do plugs while you are replacing the wires. And the connector goes to the front of the AC compressor and operates the fan clutch when you turn the AC on.

[@randykirchhevel7311]

I also noticed the spark plug wires are zip tied.

[@GirlsDigMustangs]

Doesn't look so good, huh? I didn't do that though lol

[@randykirchhevel7311]

Yes I know because I seen one of your other videos showing you buying the car so i kind of knew that you were pin pointing all the problems as you were driving it. I was like that when I bought my 86 gray GT it had a 5.0 with fuel injection and it had 5 speed manual. I bought mine from a classmate right when I graduated out of highschool. I changed the engine to a 351 Windsor with a C-4 with a 3,500 stall converter and a shift kit. The heads have been port matched to the Edelbrock Victor Jr. Intake its also running a 600 Holley double pumper I would go bigger on the carb but it's a street/ strip car its also running a 8.8 rear end with 3:73 gears good mid-range gear ratio. The stock bottom end on the engine is 8.5:1 compression submit racing cam with a 500 lift and 290 /300 duration. I am also running a MSD 6AL ignition. I never took it to the dragstrip yet because I am trying to make the fuel tank more safe because I have it mounted in the trunk. But it goes pretty good. I know should of left it original but I want to go drag racing with it every now and then. I did get second place with it in super trophy class when it was still the 5.0 I remember getting beat by a 69 Camaro and he beat me by a . 10 of a second. It's hard to dial in the right time when your racing with a clutch and car was always running slower as the day got hotter. I did everything to win that day. So that's why I decided to go with bigger cubes under the hood along with a Automatic trans. Which now when I barely step on the gas it will bark the tires.

[@randykirchhevel7311]

Your next car should be a 1930-31 model a coupe that's what I am building I am putting a 302 5.0 engine with AOD out of a 1994-95 mustang GT which it is under 100,000 miles. It's going to look old school.

[@abrahansanchez1663]

That plug is your a/c compressor harness..

[@GirlsDigMustangs]

Thank you!! I had no idea lol

[@abrahansanchez1663]

@@GirlsDigMustangs yup no problem, I work on my 92 foxbody.i will help u out in your videos when I can

[@hectorotani27]

start with all grounds , motor to frame and so on ,blinkers afte u check bulbs check connection at steering wheel , make sure its pushed in all the way ...

[@marklafollett6266]

Also, your multifunction switch could cause your blinkers not to work. Check your fuses first and the bulbs.

[@dcreager3]

The wire don't spark when cold, as the wires get hot the silocone gets week alowing the week spots to spark.

[@pat1475]

Throttle cable. With car off blip the throttle. Get in engine compartment and make sure throttle returned or in idle position.

[@bretthibbs6083]

the idle issue is for sure the idle control valve. The spark plug wires need to be replaced immediately. it could be a blown fuse for the blinker. I would check all the fuses

[@DanielLopez-ht4ov]

Check for blinker fluid and if it doesn’t work look for the fuse box and the relays. Or might be the build might be out too

[@californiakev1071]

The fuse for the blinkers are on the right side of the dash it’s kinda behind the radio area

[@briansloat3625]

Replace the spark plug wires. They are worn out if they are shorting/arcing. Check all the fuses. May have some blown fuses. Once you verify all the fuses are good, you can move on to other troubleshooting. Always check to easy stuff first. On a side note, the trip to Ogden involved 12+ hour days. Weather was nice enough to top the top on the 2020 EcoBoost Vert, I had as a rental. Also the mufflers are boxed up, just need to know where to send them.

[@gtnos1993]

The empty plug goes to the AC compressor, and the sparking is from bad plug wires so to a complete cap, rotor and plugs also. lastly the blinker is the multi switch on the steering column is bad just replace the whole blinker switch.

[@Groovemachine41]

For turn signals...check fuse first. If fuse ok, check the flasher/relay at bottom of dash near steering column. Could also be a bad turn signal switch. You can also lubricate the speedometer cable to get rid of the shaky speedometer needle. Smoke from engine bay most likely caused by leaking valve cover gaskets...then oil leaks down on exhaust manifolds. Love the Fox body's ...I have a 87 GT

[@parbhumanga528]

Hi 👋 you can cut the bolt down. Blinkers not working could be just bulbs, relays, bad wires

[@GirlsDigMustangs]

I thought about cutting the bolt, but decided to just get different ones 😀

[@ceeph36]

Sun visor lights are notorious in the foxes for draining the battery. Just snip the wire going to them cause if it isnt an issue now it will be in the future. If you saw sparks in the ignition wires then you definitely need to replace the plug wires.

[@charlieconnelly4988]

Turn signal issue may be your multi function switch in the column. My 97 gt went out twice. Draw may be the radio, check all the fuses in engine bay and under dash. Radio if it's the original two deck system the radio has to be plugged into the seperate CD player

[@sHiFtY-5-oh]

flasher relay is most likely what causing the blinkers to not work its up behind your hvac controls on 90-93 foxs

[@dzrotary]

Hi Check the flasher or check the fuse with a tester.Also check the hazard switch and wiggle it back and fourth a couple of times to clean the contacts.Sometimes there is old grease and does not allow the contact to meet. Good luck and great job fixing the idler valve

[@lookinlost5698]

Check fuses, if not it’s possibly your multi function switch.

[@FIXR7]

it seems I was correct about the unmetered air but it was coming from the loose ISC valve. The ISC normally has std. hex head bolts. As others have said; Get a new set of ignition leads and get a quality set of separators. btw get leads that are an exact fit and from my point of view, get grey or black ones because it makes them "disappear" in the engine bay.

[@HeadrushStudio21228]

Blinker not working is most likely the ignition switch under the steering wheel. It’s a common problem. Can be a fire hazard too. Mine did that when I got it

[@williamkazeleski3876]

Wires for sure

[@texlittle3325]

Mega smart and super cute.😉

[@GirlsDigMustangs]

Thank you 😊😀

[@the10rking]

Usually if the car just dies while driving it’s the TFI module in the distributor it over heats , that wire goes to the a/c compressor it unplugged

[@kemosabegt350geuss6]

If you have a parasitic draw and someone has installed an aftermarket radio that is the first place to look. When a butcher is looking for a power source they start nicking and probing into wires. Good starting point.Les Harp had a good suggestion. Plug wires need separation. Get some wire separators they are inexpensive and available at most part stores. You go girl!

[@chicagosfinestmoment4896]

Check all your fuses for the radio and turn signals and the radio might have the wires loose on the back side

[@joshuarovere2459]

If you haven't yet do a quick check on your fuses.

[@Mark-fg6si]

Might be a fuse for the blinkers and the radio antenna may not be plugged into the back of the radio

[@jamesmcpherson9632]

A/c compressor is where that wire goes.

[@LurchSLOWVGT]

Check all fuses and relays that should fix your blinkers and radio hopefully

[@mg52977]

check the fuses that's possibly why your signals aren't working.. and change the spark plu wires that's why its sparking ..it wont cause a draw from the battery..as far as that loose wire look along the firewall and see if anything is loose from there or under the harness

[@marktalbert9586]

Replace the plug wires and make you tie them so they don’t touch the headers. Also, you should replace the plugs and distributor cap and rotor. You can check your throttle cable and see if it binds, remove the inlet pipe from the throttle body and see if the throttle blade is dirty or has any type of residue. You can get some carb and throttle body cleaner, carefully spray some on a rag and wipe the blade with the pedal depressed. Also, keep an eye on the TPS, it might need to be replaced or adjusted. Good luck, I’m not sure about the wire that is unplugged. I will look on my 93 GT and see where it goes. Take care.😊

[@mustangmach11419]

That plug goes to the ac compressor

[@GirlsDigMustangs]

Yes thank you! For some reason the previous owner disconnected the A/C 😭

[@charlesdixon1804]

Maybe plug for your a/c compressor

[@patrickkovacs2785]

Happy to see you fixed the revving issue. Until you can look for the battery drain issue, you could disconnect the battery if you plan to leave it parked for a little while to save it.

[@GirlsDigMustangs]

Not a bad idea actually! Thank you! But until then, I need to keep it hooked up to see if my battery keeps draining

[@patrickkovacs2785]

@@GirlsDigMustangs good point! I had a 96 mustang in college and now 8 years later I have a 2020 Ecoboost. Really impressed with it. It's a lot more powerful than I anticipated. Your videos are a ton of fun to watch!

[@ravenreader4772]

How bout an update on the cool old truck you had.

[@justinlovince8816]

I had a 95 sn95. I originally was looking for a fox body but a friend of mine have me a good deal on the sn95 with several upgrades and after owning one for a few years I fell in love with it. I do think they are the most underrated model of mustang

[@l4ylowjoe]

Should use some medium strength loctite on that bolt

[@GirlsDigMustangs]

I didn't know that, but thanks for the tips!!

[@kirkchatwin6160]

If it’s too long just cut to the right size.

[@stardemonspacecat]

"...that's what she said" BA-DUM-TSS !!! :):):)

[@johnnynorsworthy6323]

That wire go's to A/Compressor

[@albelo86]

Needs new spark plug wires and check the spark plugs at the same time. The lose wire that you found is for the AC compressor.

[@phantomfox9093]

Ignition switch plug under dash bolted to colum is the most common problem for foxes plug separates from itself causing the car to start and run then will not restart later.

[@marklafollett6266]

Definitely change plugs and wires. Mine did the same thing. Buy the spacers that separate the wires, you don’t want them touching.

[@chopperjoe2131]

For the blinkers not working, I would check for a blown fuse.

[@foxlife7138]

That plug goes to the a/c compressor. It runs under and up the left side(looking from the front of the car) Should plug in near the top left of the compressor. Make sure the wire stays off intake, valve cover/cylinder head, and exhaust. Do a basic tune-up. The wires are old and cracked. The arc is burning the wires. Motorcraft plugs, gapped .050 if my memory serves me right. New plug wires. 8mm or 9mm will work the best. Ford racing makes a really nice set of 9mm wires. New distibutor cap and rotor. As for the blinkers, it could be a fuse. It could be the bulbs. It could also be the entire stock that controls the blinkers. I have seen a few stocks that still work the wipers and bright lights, but no blinkers. Start with fuses as they are the easiest. Clean the throttle blade and areas it touches inside the throttle body. Sounds like you have some carbon buildup causing the blade to stick. Another good thing to get is a smoke machine when owning one of these cars. Vacuum leaks will cause all kinds of crazy things with the fox, including a hanging idle. (High rev as you call it. :P) I think I went over everything. If I missed anything, let me know. 👍👌

[@azactor]

I had a 1995 6-cyl for 10 years (bought it new). Then I had a 1995 Convertible GT, Black-on-Black for about 5 years. Now I have a 2003 GT that I've been driving for 9 years now.

[@peterplowman7800]

Great video GDM, I'm an SN95 fan myself, but I can understand the appeal of the Fox. 1:32 - Plug wire insulation has broken down allowing the spark from the coil to go somewhere else (in your case, the arcing has pock marked the valve covers in this shot). 2:15 - that connector plugs into the top (that is, the 12 o'clock position, close to the pulley) of the AC compressor (you're literally about 7-8 inches away from where it goes at this time stamp); if you want to get the AC system going it'll need to be plugged in (also you'll need a compressor suction line, discharge line, liquid line, AC receiver/dryer assembly, the bracket for that assembly, a low pressure switch (that plugs into that gray connector by the passenger side firewall), and a high pressure switch (which plugs in close to the passenger side front of the car); also you'll need a condenser if you don't have one). Battery going dead? No clue but be wary of anything that didn't come on the car from the factory. Blinker? Same - the headlight switch is different on Fox and SN95 (the SN95 ones from the early years tend to melt, so be aware that your SN95 may start having issues, but replacement is a pretty quick job, even if you have to cut the harness wiring). Just keep fixing things and eventually you'll run out of stuff to fix (hopefully, though money is also something you can run out of on restorations)! I hope you find this helpful, have a great day!

[@GirlsDigMustangs]

holy cow thank you sooo much for all of this great information!! I think we are in the minority liking the SN95. But we need to stay strong together 😆💪😍

[@stevelong6164]

A/C compressor wire, the connector is at the top of the compressor pulley. Huge vac leak from your IAC, fix that first and see what other issues calm down. You’ll need to do wires, cap, rotor and plugs.

[@jerryriggan]

Vacuum leaks can cause high idle.

[@micahbaca6589]

You're just way too awesome!

[@427lucky]

While you look for the current draw you can get a negative disconnect switch ( or just take off the negative battery lead if your not going to be using the car for a few days. Battery will be fine when you connect to go.

[@dandeadeyedandh5899]

Check fuses

[@4eyefox79]

And the wire is for the ac for sure

[@mgmaged]

that connection is for your AC

[@GirlsDigMustangs]

Thank you! 😃

[@stephenvelden295]

Those wires that are sparking are the spark plug leads. They only have electrical power while the engine is running. Be careful as they are very high voltage. Don't touch them while the engine is running! They need replacing but don't use cable ties to hold them together. Use the correct spark plug wire separators. The accelerator cable needs more lube than that. You need to take off one end and drown it with lube and then hold it up so the lube runs down inside. Move the inner cable in and out for a few minutes too. As for your radio and indicators, first check the fuses. The indicator problem could also be the flasher can but if you have several things not working, it is usually a blown fuse.

[@clintcastillo1510]

You clearly need blinker fluid and your good

[@GirlsDigMustangs]

Lol thanks for the tip Clint, I'll make sure to add blinker fluid. Do you think my tail lights are low on fluid too? 😂

[@phantomfox9093]

Could be a flasher relay or a bulb or broken wire.

[@josephmalinowski6817]

Having the bad wires and probably bad spark plugs is what's stopping you from starting your car but also take the length of that wire stretch it out because usually they will not give you extra wire and look how far you can move it around and look in those areas for we're at the other end plugs into but that could plug into underneath the dashboard and also when calls are made from the factory usually the only use 1 wiring harness if your car didn't have that option then they didn't have anything to plug it into for so what you need to do is stretch it to the passenger side of the car or just look around and find a male or female end and see if they fit and plug them in

[@kornetcorters6591]

Liking the shirt.

[@californiakev1071]

Lmr is going to be your best friend they have everything

[@pat1475]

Radio could just be bad. Blinker switch needs replaced. She sounds good!!

[@jacobvanausdeln1696]

When the engine heats up it causes the wires to heat up and fail by their design, replace the wires to fix your issue #1. Also ford distributor caps are notorious for these years to be extremely loose by design, check your cap for tightness (by wiggling the cap on distributor) and replace if can be moved around, or inspect the cap closely for cracks. Also the module on the side of the distributor tends to get weak with age and cause spark breakup (the jump you see in the tac), it should have heat paste under it and that is a good tell of age. Enjoying the videos and always happy to see new people learning new things. I’ve been a professional technician for a while and learning is what keeps us all entertained.

[@jacobvanausdeln1696]

(Look up your ICM and read about what it is to understand)

[@leonardcrisci7254]

Upgrade the alternator LMR sells them

[@dand7653]

I do believe that plug you were looking for is the AC compressor

[@464camaro]

The battery draw can be tested by the car in the off position. Them undo the ground battery cable. The tap the negative battery pole. If it sparks then there is something in the car drawing power. The spark will be small not big depending on the draw. The wires will light up when they are too old and need replacement.

[@GirlsDigMustangs]

Thanks for this tip! I will have to try this 🙏

[@shawnmass1274]

You were wondering about your turn signal? It probably needs a new turn signal switch. You can replace the whole turn signal knob, just loosen a couple screws under your steering wheel and pop the cover off (steering wheel cover) and find a new one on Amazon for like $20-$30. The switch is built in to the turn signal knob. Then just plug in the new one and put cover back on. Easy fix!

[@tylerc7336]

The battery is for starting the car only, after the car is running the alternator takes over

[@MrBlackbutang]

You are right! You must live in Seattle? No does maintenance til they break down. Still more Chevys on the side of the road than ford ye

[@kravenfoxbodies2479]

The small tank beside radiator cap has a female socket and maybe where that wire go's

[@davidbroman5840]

I had the same power problem on my 89, it’s due to bad grounding issues... check and see if your negative battery terminal gets super warm after driving.

[@krvm3]

So finee😻😻

[@scottbrady5127]

If I remember correctly the order the cylinders fire in on a HO engine is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. The cylinders are numbered staring on the left front of the engine with 1 through 4, then 5-8 on the right side with you standing in front of it. You don't want the 6,5, 4 wires right together as they can cause sparking between the plug wires, especially if they are damaged. Having those all zip tied together is putting 5 and 6 together and is probably what you are seeing. Get some new wires, replace them one at a time so you don't get them mixed up and use some wire separators to keep them away from each other. Also, use the short end of the wrench on the bolts on the valve you tightened so you can have the long part in your hand and get the bolts tighter, they may loosen up on you again. You can also get a socket like that to use on your ratchet if you want. Harbor Freight would have them cheap. The parasitic draw can be hard to find. Check things like a glove box light, light at the hatch area, etc that might be on all the time. You can put your phone on record and shut it up in those areas to see if the light is on when you close what ever it is. I hope this was helpful. stay at it and you will work everything out. The cars are great, I am still jealous that you have so many nice ponies, but super happy you do!

[@GirlsDigMustangs]

Thank you soooo much Scott for all of this great information!! 🙏😊😀