Here's Why You Shouldn't Wait To Flush Your Radiator!!

Here's Why You Shouldn't Wait To Flush Your Radiator!!
3 Step Radiator Flush
In this video I flush my radiator and cooling system in my 1995 GMC Suburban as well as replace both the upper and lower radiator hoses, replace the GM quick connect heater hose system from the top of the water pump and replace the water pump itself with the GM original equipment ACDelco unit.
The cooling system in this truck has never officially been flushed as far as I know and so, with 85k miles on it, I decided to perform the flush. Because I was doing this coolant flush I decided to also replace the major cooling system components at the same time.
** I am an Amazon associate. I make a commission based on sales through my Amazon associate links.**
Here's the water pump I installed: amzn.to/3lZ57Qf
5/8" heater hose: amzn.to/3jTIrz2
5/8" x 1/2" Brass Barb Fitting: amzn.to/2FenPTa
www.1roadgarage...
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon associate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon associate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places.

[@hookyjo72]

After going through all that, I was surprised you didn't replace the thermostat, and most of the time when I encounter the factory clamps, I replace them with the adjustable ones and always make sure they are positioned where you can get to them. Prestone makes a flush kit, for next time.

[@AWIERD1]

also wanted to mention that when you're topping off your antifreeze you leave the radiator cap off and idle it until it is up to operating temperature. when it's at operating temperature you can squeeze the upper radiator hose or give it a few quick revs to force out any remaining air in the cooling system.

[@brady912345]

Pretty soon this guy will be doing a whole engine rebuild

[@johnaclark1]

...just because.

[@MyHabibALI]

@@johnaclark1 To keep the engine life longer😂😂😂

[@jestertech3790]

He will decide to rebuild it just because it started burning less than 1/2 a quart between oil changes.

[@ByGraceThroughFaith777]

I was considering selling my 2005 Silverado 4.8L but your channel has got me excited about my truck again. Just got the stupid int steering shaft bearing plastic part to finally get rid of the clunk. next is the instrument cluster. Love your videos, thanks!

[@mr.koivisto6975]

Get a no spill funnel from Amazon. Allows you to keep fluid in it for when the thermostat opens. Also helps burp the system. Hell, i'll buy you one.

[@GrandPrix46]

I got one of those after seeing Eric O. use it, came with a bunch of different adapters and what not, makes filling a cooling system super easy.

[@x-man5056]

@corey Babcock No you don't, but they are nice to have. Just say'n people were doing this job for decades without them. Don't let not having one stop you.

[@mikeb6386]

I always check the antifreeze concentration when I finish to make sure there is enough protection against freezing.

[@jimmycorbett4611]

How do you do that?

[@62-62]

I have been following you since I saw my first one! You are very informative and for us non mechanical minded owners. This video on system flush is one I was needing. I agree with you on in regards to if it’s not broke don’t mess with it. I do have a question: If you were doing all of the improvements, why didn’t you change the Thermostat? Just a question. Again, I truly enjoy your videos and thanks for doing them. I’ve used a couple for work I did on my vehicles.

[@1RoadGarage]

Thanks for following along! The only reason I didn’t also change the thermostat is because it’s fairly new. I changed that out maybe 2 years ago with an ACDelco 195° unit. Being that I didn’t have to touch it with everything I did here I opted to leave it alone.

[@62-62]

1ROAD , I was thinking this was the reason but I didn’t hear you mention it. Thanks for the reply! I look forward for “our next adventure “!

[@x-man5056]

@corey Babcock It is a good idea. You can test them with pot of water on the stove and a thermometer. If you replace on an older vehicle like this, make sure you buy a "fail open" one. Should be self explanatory.

[@michaelquillen2679]

Every Spring, I open the petcock on the radiator and drain. I then replace it with new fluid. Every year, it looks as clean coming out as it did the day it went in.

[@DaDaDo661]

I do this with power steering too. Suck it out with a turkey baster whenever I do an engine oil change. Eventually the fluid will always be new.

[@danhambrick6331]

Nice job Jimmy.I would have painted that water pump because I'm sure it has rusted by now....lol....

[@XC797]

Thank you for your demo and for taking time to share your knowledge with us. I know this video is a year old . Thanks again 5 star video

[@brianh8955]

I could be wrong here, but I’m thinking the smaller port at the water pump is to restrict the flow of coolant from the heater core(s). Allows more heat in the core, probably more so in the rear heater core.

[@mikealexander4166]

It’s an expansion tank. It’s level will get higher when hot and lower when cold. That’s why the hot level is above the cold level.

[@mr.miyashiro]

What about that idling problem? Did you check your IAC?

[@Tablesaw818]

When are we gonna tackle that ABS light?

[@1RoadGarage]

I know right??!

[@x-man5056]

@@1RoadGarage Me too. Damn things. Biggest unnecessary govt, mandated POS ever put on vehicles. Anti-skid only stops you straiter, not shorter. Learn how to drive. (sorry, pet peeve)

[@YTjndallas]

Your ‘95 Suburban is very lucky to have been adopted by a Dad like you. Lol.

[@aaronpowell4885]

Great job Jimmy👍 I believe the restriction in the heater hose fitting is for faster warm-ups, as the thermostat doesn't effect coolant flow to the heater core/cores like it does to the radiator. Either way should be a non issue unless one lives in a sub arctic climate🙂

[@ahmadghosheh3104]

What a concept, a water pump on the OUTSIDE, wonders never stop. 😂 now everything needs an engine disassembly

[@ashy1423]

Thanks Jimmy for all your entertaining and insightful videos. They are a great guide in a good direction. Stay well and stay safe. Ash 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@ToolsOutsideTheBox]

Good stuff. I buy those Ts that you splice into your heater hose lines. Then I simply use the garden hose to flush the system. You can buy plastic hose clamp pliers at harbor freight to control direction of the flow. Also, I NEVER use Dexcool once it’s out of the system. Actually, the Toyota pink is the best that I’ve found. Finally, there’s a worm gear hose clamp brand called “Ideal” something that is American and supposedly the best. Aside from that, I like OEM spring clamps. They maintain the right compression regardless of temp, unless they’re worn out

[@TotalDIY2737]

Love the DIY! Helpful to a lot of ppl who want to do it themselves without perfection!

[@benkanobe7500]

Great job especially eliminated the quick connect. Thanks!

[@YTjndallas]

The smaller aperture in the quick-connect fitting was probably designed to increase the pressure in that line, which may be a transmission line. This could spell trouble.

[@oBlackCoffee]

Thanks for the maintenance videos on the obs! I have a 97 c1500 pickup basically the same set up. Always use your videos for reference. 👍

[@chrischery2733]

Taking care of your SUV like that, your SUV is going to take you for a long time, again when having and taking care of it, the car is going to take a last forever.

[@1RoadGarage]

That’s the goal! 👍

[@x-man5056]

Forever is a long time but yes, it's always good to protect your investment with good preventative maintenance. It matters while you own it and when you sell it. One of the first things I look at is the fluids when I check out a used car for purchase.

[@charlesajouri7233]

Why not remove the thermostat so the pump can circulate the water without having to wait for the engine to heat up and open the stat?

[@spresc2180]

I would suggest that when you use a taped threaded fitting that you also put a thin coat of Teflon pipe sealant on top of, or under the tape. Your call if you want to put a thin coat on the female threads also.. I sometimes do that also.

[@x-man5056]

Apply the tape and a circle of (automotive Teflon sealant only) around the beginning of the thread on the tapered fitting. Snug and a tug only, do not over tighten. If it leaks you can always snug it more. It you over tighten you can crack the boss it screws into. That's a bad thing, trust me it will piss you right off.

[@spresc2180]

@@x-man5056 You are correct. There is a tendency to overtighten with the teflon paste as you described.

[@x-man5056]

@@spresc2180 Learned the hard way. Per usual.

[@supercomp7078]

Hi Mate, the water flows into the expansion or overflow tank when hot and is sucked back into the radiator when it is cooling, the water in the tank is before the vent to air, so when the sealed coolant system cools it creates a vacuum and is able to suck the water back into the radiator,

[@rh8611]

Nice job, I am going to do a similar flush on my 05 Suburban

[@xnolan1331x]

Oh yeah love the videos! One question why would you refill the system back with dexcool. I have had nothing but problems with dexcool eating the aluminum lower intake.

[@1RoadGarage]

Hmm. I use Dex because that’s what GM recommends and it’s easy to find off the shelf if I was ever on the road and had an issue. I haven’t had any issues with Dex that I know of..🤞

[@jacobn3160]

xnolan1331x If you flush it every few years you won’t have any issues. Dex also doesn’t eat aluminum, only if it’s old coolant and it’s become acidic. The green coolant is far worse on soft metals

[@xnolan1331x]

Jacob I believe you are right with the coolant becoming to acidic and eating away at the metal. I guess this just goes to show how routine maintenance will prefent longerterm damage to the vehicle. I scooped a 99 tahoe that had a "bad headgasket" here it was the lower intake gasket that caused the coolant into the oil. The lower intake manifold was pited and i had to get the heads and manifold reshaved to get rid of the pits. Just some thought to throw out there

[@xnolan1331x]

Prevent*

[@FabiusMaximus1000]

All coolant eats aluminium if it gets old.

[@mattknowshomes]

trick, use aluminum foil to direct drain plug. works awesome to keep from getting fluids everwhere you dont want them.

[@micahyarbrough5513]

Great idea! I am getting ready to do my Suburban and will probably use this trick. Thanks!

[@brysonrodden5112]

This is exactly what I am going to do. I don't need a perfect flush but I'd like to get as much of the old fluid out. Ford went from the orange(dexcool) to yellow(similar to what asian vehicles used) and I want to try and get most of the old stuff out. The two fluids are compatible but the Yellow is supposed to be better.

[@bwagenberg]

I wanted to hear more about getting all the air bubbles out of everywhere. Why didn't you replace the thermostat. How did you reach the tough pump bolts?

[@LoyF77]

Good fluid change.

[@mattknowshomes]

use a flush chemical (few bucks at walmart) inbetween draining. I also built a system to hookup the garden hose into the coolant system. it pushes out the old fluid.

[@Sci-Mon1]

Some cars really don’t do well with radiator flush. It can make things worse. Best to just use distilled water.

[@fabianatencio6634]

Jimmy I have to say every vid you post it just so happens to be what I'm working on next..

[@Zspeed]

Awesome video, thanks so much for sharing!

[@VenturiLife]

It should be kind of impossible to crack the engine block, because the thermostat to the engine doesn't open to allow colder fluid in, until it reaches operating temp. If the thermostat encounters colder water, it should close up. However if the thermostat has some issue already... it could occur. Still.. it's good practice to let it all cool down.

[@NoWr2Run]

I pull the thermo. then open up the petcock & run my garden hose in the rad. till it's clear & go from there.

[@FredTheLutinoCocatiel]

I live in an apartment building this is how I said we have to do it if I lived in the house I will use a garden hose 2 flush everything until it's clear

[@FredTheLutinoCocatiel]

@corey Babcock 😅😅😅😅😅

[@x-man5056]

Make sure you drain out all the hose water before you refill, including block drains. There is a lot of things in city water you don't really want in your coolant system believe it or not. Chlorine and minerals to name 2. Use ONLY distilled water to refill. Mix your antifreeze before refilling radiator. Don't do it the way Jimmy did.

[@theupscale7130]

Hows the Envoy doing? The speaker upgrade was the first video I saw of yours :D

[@Terkinstein]

Would it have been any more advantageous to use rust remover if you had more time? Or is the cost/benefit not so great?

[@1RoadGarage]

You mean like an off the shelf ‘flush’ product? Probably. But what I did here is definitely good enough for now. I didn’t see any evidence of overwhelming rust. Seemed light to normal to me. Thanks for the comment!

[@haks310]

Just did this on my 95 Tahoe, after the original radiator cracked. Definitely look into Thermocure if you want a thorough flush. Have been running distilled water and Thermocure for the past two weeks; drained water keeps coming out brown. Once the drainage runs clear I'll throw a gallon of green coolant and call it a day.

[@JamesBrown-rm2rd]

use 50/50 green dex cool makes your water pump ware out quickly, and has been know to make your intake seals leak

[@Blurredman]

Ah this is why I prefer green or blue anti-freeze as opposed to orange or red. Easier to read re: rust/water quality :)

[@TheKapplebee]

You went through all the trouble to do a dump and semi-rinse with water. You wasted YOUR time. Why not do a REAL flush with a good chemical flush?? A good citric acid based flush really does a great job of cleaning everything. Did you change the LIM gasket? Putting in dexcool back into a known dexcool leaker is just asking for trouble. You have a ton of choices for lifetime coolants Peak Global is a fantastic AOAT, non 2-EH and easily available coolant that wont eat your gaskets and wont turn to jello if you do have a leak.

[@AWIERD1]

whatever happened to putting in a T fitting into one of the heater cores lines, and flushing your system through that. if you remove the thermostat and might be a good idea to actually replace it and then flush through the T fitting with the heaters engaged in the engine running you actually do a pretty thorough flush.

[@TheKapplebee]

@@AWIERD1 I've done a bunch with my old t fitting adapter using hose water. too hard to do on some of these "newer" vehicles. The newer antifreezes are better then they used to be also. The chemical citric cleaners work great. The way he did it was a slobbing mess and didn't really flush anything.

[@x-man5056]

@@AWIERD1 It does work if you put it on the correct heater hose (read instructions carefully) but also adds 3 additional leak points and really isn't necessary.

[@x-man5056]

@@TheKapplebee I don't think it was that dirty to begin with but draining, refilling, repeat DOES remove most of the rust scale and he was using distilled water. His Suburban appears to have been well maintained. I would also have used a chemical flush but in his case, not the biggest mistake he made IMO.

[@mk35091]

I wonder why you didn't check your antifreeze strength with a gauge after putting all that water in the system?

[@SGastoina]

Don’t think I could do the orange again. I’ve seen what it’s done to 2 different trucks. One I’ve flushed 10 times over 5 years and a new radiator still same corrosion. They say change it regularly but still I just don’t know.

[@NoWr2Run]

DEX SUCKS, I AGREE.

[@SGastoina]

A local guy told me he used the la awesome and it cleaned everything out.

[@04JALD]

I need to do this on my 96 burb. Thank u

[@rickyreyes48]

Always check your concentration!!

[@marrag1]

yay you kept the e fans on :D

[@hesatwitchyone]

This is such an old video and I get that. Still I'm looking for some advise on a extensive way to flush my own radiator (and the block ext.) in my 96 GMC k1500 with 260,000+. Especially without ending up with 15+ gallons of old fluid to get rid off in the end. Long story short, Its bad. Real bad. And I live where the temperature in the summer is even hotter then Nevada . Im going to add coolant flush and gut the thermostat ext. I know all that. My question is, Iv seen people deep flush there radiator with a hose wile running. YIKES, right? Just like said here. Well, what if I hook a hose up to my hot water heater (that will already burn your skin on half heat) ) and flush it with that and only after the truck has been running for five or so minutes? I know this is extreme, but like I said, it's needed. Seeing that glorious crystal clear water coming out of the engine in those videos is tempting... But I definitely would not add cold water, and especially after the truck is heated up as in some of those videos. 😬

[@Loco4Waffles]

How or where do you dispose of old coolant fluid?

[@Loco4Waffles]

@corey Babcock Dump it where? Is there a proper method or do people use the toilet or dump it on the ground?

[@Walrus50]

If that oil pressure is correct isn’t that pretty low?

[@d1strappazon]

Good work Jimmy

[@JustinSmith-ph1le]

Why orange coolant, I thought they used the green?

[@stickit2theman1]

The orange coolant is GM's recommended coolant called "DEX-Cool". It contains many of the anti-corrosion and lubricating element that the system needs. If you end up using green fluid (which I don't recommend btw), those additives will have to be purchased separately.

[@NoWr2Run]

@@stickit2theman1 DEX, SUCKS CAUSES WAYY TOO MANY PROBLEMS.

[@limited50scla]

Replaced my entire cooling system last year, on my 2000 Tahoe limited. A few weeks ago I was sitting and it was about 113* here in Los Angeles. The temp went to 230* , so I turned on the heater. This last week it was really hot out. Again, it started to heat up. Should I replaced the thermostat which I did last year. It was a Fail-safe, at 195*. I was told that 175* would be better. I really appreciate any tips.

[@1RoadGarage]

I’m wondering about your fan clutch..

[@limited50scla]

1ROAD I replaced it. I felt like the oem one was sucking in more air than the aftermarket Autozone brand. When I start my truck, it like a leaf blower, then after a while it settles down.

[@NoWr2Run]

@@limited50scla FAIL SAFE THERMOS. SUCK.

[@prasadreddy5421]

Dear Sir. I am the owner of Volkswagen Polo 1.2L Turbo Diesel Engine. I've completed 50,000 Km on road. Do you suggest that, I should go for Radiator Flushing, as shown in your video., My Car is 2015 Model. 4th Generation Engine, It is performing excellently and gives 100 Km per Gallon of Diesel fuel. - Prasad Reddy INDIA

[@1RoadGarage]

Thanks for the question, I’d certainly look at the manufacturers recommended flush interval. Every car is different due to many factors including fluid type and engine material. My fluid is Dex-Cool which is bright orange and turns brown due to rust build up over time. It’s good to refresh the system by draining out the old and filling with new. Hope that helps.

[@prasadreddy5421]

@@1RoadGarage Thankyou So much for your reply Prasad reddy Indian

[@yourface8698]

Thanks Jimmy great video

[@65csx83]

Yes, take note: be aware the next time you drive through a puddle or rivulet of water with a hot engine.

[@ron6376]

Just install a flush kit. Its alot easier like 2hrs.

[@pingpong9656]

Always change the thermostat when doing pump etc... that is the only weak point.

[@Chuckools]

Why didn't you replace the thermostat?

[@gpowerdragon9852]

well when it's really hot outside take it slow man take it slow and of course plenty of water and wet shirts :-)

[@ToxicMisfitsYt]

Poke a good size hole in the old hose and stick a water hose in the radiator leave it running come back in 30

[@NoWr2Run]

I remove thermo. open up the petcock & put my garden hose in the rad. & let her flow till clear.

[@x-man5056]

Wise and considerate people don't do this. This method will work but if you don't drain the old anti freeze into an appropriate container first you have a large volume of contaminated water waste stream. Your dog or cat come and drink from the contaminated water they die a horrible death. Dispose of old anti-freeze appropriately. Drain the old anti-freeze first into a container or take it to a shop and let them do it right. It's not 1950 anymore.

[@NoWr2Run]

@@x-man5056 " WISE & CONSIDERATE PEOPLE DON'T DO THIS " Who said I let it run on the ground ? You ASSUMED I DID THIS, WHY ? I have 3 large 10 gallon containers I use all the time & I have 3 dogs, 2 cats. DON'T ACCUSE PEOPLE WITHOUT KNOWING THE FACTS, SON. DO YOU WORK FOR THE GOV. ? THAT'S WHAT THEY DO.

[@x-man5056]

@@NoWr2Run That's very interesting. How do you get a 10 gallon container under your vehicle? Do you have a lift that you forgot to tell about also? Maybe you are capturing all the effluent in the appropriate containers. Now you have many gallons of contaminated water to dispose of instead of 2-4 gallons. And I never said that YOU were doing it Mr. Defensive, only that people in general shouldn't do it without precaution so extraordinary, almost nobody would be doing it. Do you think "Toxic Misfits" captures all his effluent also? Not born yesterday.

[@liorlevi3991]

Awesome video! Good job

[@FabiusMaximus1000]

I see you opted to continue running the e-fans? Buy a new shroud, and clutch fan, drive around for a few weeks and realize you are better off not having to worry, thank me later.

[@GrandPrix46]

Starting in '07 they all have electric fans, don't think everyone who owns a Tahoe/Suburban from '07 on is worried one bit about their cooling fans. I've never worried about the electric fans I put in my '01 Suburban (a stock set from an '07 along with a harness that came with 3 extra relays).

[@FabiusMaximus1000]

@@GrandPrix46 The 2007 was engineered to have them from the start.

[@The_Crasher-xj4el]

Why’s yours run ~20° hotter than mine? My 1995 C1500 with the 5.7 TBI runs right at the first line on the gauge in the FL heat lol

[@1RoadGarage]

Mine did too until I turned up the electric fan temp set point. I’m thinking that it was running too cool and possibly running bad because of it. Just running this temp for a while.. I can always turn it back down. Truck seems to be happier here.

[@The_Crasher-xj4el]

1ROAD I’ll have to look into that because mine idles quite poorly sometimes

[@MrEyad1990]

man if i get a dollar for every part he replaced !!

[@x-man5056]

He should have ditched those damn spring clamps on the radiator hoses also. I hate those damn things.

[@MrEyad1990]

@@x-man5056 yes me too . we all do .

[@x-man5056]

@@MrEyad1990 usually adds a bunch of time to the job. There's always at least one you can't get onto right to get it off.

[@MrEyad1990]

@@x-man5056 also it needs a big pliers to shove in really tight places just to take it off .

[@x-man5056]

@@MrEyad1990 Yes, true. They make special pliers for them but the spring clamps are still a pain on new cars because they are installed during assembly when they assemblers have greater access so the clamps are still not in the right position to get hold of. Besides, I already have screwdrivers. Those spring clamps go strait in the trash. There is a new type of screw clamps out there that have an extra band at the inside diameter. They seal better because they have a wider clamping area. Bought them at Advance but they are no doubt everywhere by now.

[@otoymotivemechanic6870]

Dear sir, Is it ok because i only used distiled water?

[@ricardoramos1242]

No! You should use the coolant designated in the owner's manual. The coolant, protects the engine against overheat (elevates the water's boiling temperature), freezing (decreases the water's freezing temperature) and corrosion

[@otoymotivemechanic6870]

@@ricardoramos1242 thank you sir

[@Sci-Mon1]

No. It’ll rust the inside of the radiator and engine. The whole purpose of coolant is to control temp and prevent corrosion. Water is a actually better at dissipating heat than coolant. But it needs those anti wear additives

[@gman1035]

You needed to measure the radiator width to get the proper upper hose size.

[@1RoadGarage]

Just referenced the ACDelco website that gives me the part numbers based on VIN. Then head over to Amazon...

[@gman1035]

@@1RoadGarage Yet you still have the wrong hose. . . If you actually read the Amazon part notes, then you wouldn't have the wrong size upper rad hose. . .

[@donaldlong9649]

great video!!

[@GrandPrix46]

Why do people think turning the heat on does anything? Coolant is circulating through the heater core regardless if the heat is on or not.

[@GrandPrix46]

@corey Babcock there is nothing to physically block the flow of coolant through the core when the heat is off, that changes when the heat is turned on to allow flow. All that changes is the position of the blend door to allow heat or block it off, but the core has constant flow through it (which is why people bypass it when the heater core starts to leak, it doesn't only leak when the heat is on).

[@NoWr2Run]

Turning on the heat ( with the fan on high ) will cool your temp. down & might prevent over heating. As for anything else it does not comply to cars that are newer just a lot older cars that would not flow through the heater core otherwise.

[@GrandPrix46]

@@NoWr2Run not disagreeing with you there, however that has nothing to do with the video. The video is about flushing the cooling system, which turning on the blower fan and circulating heat throughout the cabin has no effect on. The coolant is always passing through the heater core, so long as the inlet/outlet hoses are connected to it. The blower fan doesn't control the flow of coolant through the heater core.

[@NoWr2Run]

@@GrandPrix46 I explained " THE ONLY THING BY TURNING THE HEATER ON IS LOWERING THE TEMP. ". Then I said OLDER CARS DIDN'T WORK THIS WAY, YOU HAD TO TURN YOUR HEATER ON FOR IT TO FLOW THROUGH THE HEATER CORE. SADLY THIS PRACTICE IS STILL DONE TODAY & AS YOU STATED DOES JACK, EXCEPT LOWERING THE TEMP. OF THE COOLANT & YOUR ENGINE.

[@GrandPrix46]

@@NoWr2Run could you explain to me, in all caps if possible, how the device worked that blocked flow through the heater core that is controlled from the cabin by turning the heat on? I've never heard of such a thing, don't know how it would operate, and I'd definitely like to learn something about old cars.

[@danielb-c9100]

What happened to the 2004 Tahoe

[@1RoadGarage]

I’ve got an ‘03 Suburban. Still running great!

[@danielb-c9100]

Anymore videos

[@jeffcuevas5918]

Just remove the lower hose at the radiator....

[@Nihilist_Scum]

Went through all that to put dexcool back in 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ green coolant is what you want

[@omarzowila]

Where’s the 2003 Suburban

There are much easier ways to do this,with far less mess.

[@mridware9694]

Why you don't change 23 years old thermostat

[@Devo1987]

DEXKILL

[@condor5635]

250,000 miles on my suburban and use Dexcool entire time while flushing over the years never had a single issue. I think most people have issues when they combine with other coolants or use stop leak fluids. Otherwise I think it’s great in my experience

[@mike-bj4dk]

quit using dexcool flush it all good and use green

[@mike-bj4dk]

and get rid of quick connect on intake use a nipple and clamp with new hose to heater core

[@suggesttwo]

Change your coolent. Oil is cheap coolent is very cheap 😁 engines are expensive. Change your coolent.

[@stoge420]

Just because says no one ever

[@megalodonjoker8946]

👍

[@raymon760]

Dexcool 🤮 lol

[@apostmax]

NEVER ever empty the system using the radiator bleed screw, it is very fragile and if it breaks good luck fixing it. It's always better practice to just pull off a collar at the bottom of the system. Quicker and safer procedure.