Hobby Cheating 129 - How to Paint Colored Metallics

In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through two different methods for creating colored metallics. This can be great for doing unusual color for your metals - having a bright color while retaining that metallic sheen.
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
Vince's RPG Podcast: itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/u...

[@brentonlume8848]

I have a fair amount of trouble painting NMM and I’ve been playing around with this concept for a few weeks trying to make a really blue higher contrast metallic For a winter/snow themed army. And this has helped an absolute ton. Nice video once again.

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, glad to hear it and happy to help as always. :)

[@mikebreazeale2563]

Very cool Vince! I like the way you did the first one...Looks brighter or something. Thanks! And...you asked and I am always interested in seeing more about wet blending...I know there are a million videos out there but they are not all yours...I like the way you do things. Thanks for sharing...

[@VinceVenturella]

I have a second wet blending video planned that will also talk about some fun tricks you can do with very wet paint.

[@mikebreazeale2563]

Sweet! Thanks very much Vince!!

[@jeromevandeneynde3895]

I ordered a start collecting box slaves to darkness because of this video and the video you did on sketching with the chaos warrior. I also spent a lot on NEW scale 75 paints because of you haha. Awesome video by the way, I was looking for a cool way to paint my chaos warrior!

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, happy to help as always and I have a feeling that will be an investment that pays off big time soon.

[@damehamara6827]

About 10 years ago, I was just experimenting with miniature painting and wanted to try and do colored metallics. I knew very little about mini painting and the various brands and products out there, so I just mixed up a small pot using one of the blues and one of the silver metallics in the Citadel range and used that for a Necron army. I thought it was pretty cool at that time, but now knowing how bad Citadel's metallics are and just knowing more in general, it probably wasn't that great. It's great to see a video on other ways to do this. For the one where you glazed over the metallic couldn't you use satin or gloss varnish over it, or mix satin/gloss medium with the ink, to bring back some of the shine? Vallejo also has a metal medium that could come in handy.

[@VinceVenturella]

Certainly, you could also mix the varnish directly with the ink (which is what I would recommend), as that will just increase some of the shine, it will never be the same as metal, because metal just has a unique shine.

[@13Robzilla]

Vince, as usual great video. I wonder how this would look over different metallic colors (like brass, copper, tin, etc.) The reason I ask is because I am starting to get in to OSL and I have found I like the results adding the effect with multiple glazes best and wonder how that would work across the different metals. Thinking of doing a Necron army but basing them on the Junkions from the old transformers movie from the 80's. Basically varying the type of metal greatly between different parts of the same unit with only the glow unifying them.

[@VinceVenturella]

Excellent, the only issue there is you have to have Dare to be Stupid queued up on your phone at all times while placing your army. As to golds. They should be treated as having a base color of yellow (Red for Bronze), so you have to figure that into the color you put on the top. For example, if you put a blue on top, it will turn greenish.

[@IDICBeer]

Great share Vince

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you sir.

[@InkTongue]

I'm interested in how to do "True Pearl" and "True Ceramics". I'm using the word true like in TMM because I want to actually get that effect on the model and not recreate the appearance of it it with normal paint. If the idea of that sparks your interest I'd love to see a video.

[@AKAK-ue8np]

As for True Pearl, I'd really advice Vallejo Metal Medium. Though it is meant to turn colors into metal colors, it's not exactly that, though it can fit that role. The main thing it does is to give paints a pearlescent sheen. It does lighter the paint mixed with it though.

[@UrielsFury]

Some enamel paints might be what you're looking for.

[@VinceVenturella]

So I actually have a video planned on this (in fact, it was originally going to be the video this week, but I wanted more planning time for exactly how to show it. I have several techniques I utilize to create a True Pearl effect, I think you'll like what's coming. :)

[@xr8dmoose135]

@@VinceVenturella hi, i was just wondering if there ended up being a tutorial or video on this topic? I couldnt find one in your list but thought i would ask

[@sunlocked5838]

Maybe those colorshift paints? I haven't tried them, but it looks like you could make a nice pearlesanct effect with them.

[@benhillman1673]

Can always trust vince to have whatever niche thing im trying!

[@VinceVenturella]

Always happy to help. :)

[@Wijkert]

While glazing over metal colors from Vallejo, I realized how much of a difference the the finish of the Daler Rowney inks is compared to the Vallejo Inks. The later seems much more satin/matt, while the frormer is glossy. I feel like with matter, inks like the Vallejo range, the shine of the metal paint underneath get removed (which lessens the effect). Not sure if a gloss varnish can bring that back. Thoughts?

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, FW and Scale inks are very glossy and good for a very shiny metal color (like Tamiya Clear Red as well). The vallejo game inks are wonderful as they are matte inks, but they will kill a metal shine.

[@ItsDaCMD]

Great vid, Vince. As always, the quality and depth of information is outstanding. I am searching for a way to add some interest to my oooold High Elf army (aka the quarantine project) by giving them some lightly blue tinted armour. I was thinking of either glazing with Vallejo's Blue Ink or GW's Talassar Blue contrast paint, since I own those two. Would you say there's a difference in finish or is it negligible? Any suggestions? Old vid, but thanks anyway for everything you do for us.

[@VinceVenturella]

The contrast paint tends to be a little shinier, so that one would probably work better for the purpose.

[@ItsDaCMD]

@@VinceVenturella Will try, thanks for the reply!

[@AviadMD]

Timing is crazy. Been busy testing out colored metallic all day for a new project. Overall I'm leaning towards preshading with metallic going from VMC magnesium or steel to silver or even chrome and VERY light coats of tamiya clear or thinned ghost tints to get it to the tint I want while making sure no to go overboard into the Candy effect. Any further shading can be done with the clear smoke/oil discharge

[@VinceVenturella]

Sounds like a perfect plan to me.

[@AviadMD]

Vince Venturella I'm mostly toying with the idea of getting some AK Extreme Metal for the project or just stick with Vallejo since it's very TMM heavy

[@nikos_xenios]

Hi Vince, greetings from Greece. I have used a different quick and easy method to add the metal effect on my minis, although somewhat a bit dirty. I paint the colors of the armour as usual and then I drybrush a bright metallic silver on the parts of the surfaces that would reflect most of the light. It gives a really nice effect without losing the color saturation, and with no extra effort, which is the main moto of this channel. Would be nice to try it out yourself and take it two steps further, you being much better in painting than I am, and then show how it's properly done here.

[@VinceVenturella]

Sure, I'll add it to the list. :)

[@Wijkert]

Have you tried both methods with an airbrush? Seems like that would work nicely, since thinning down the paint would be helpful instead of a bit bothersome.

[@VinceVenturella]

Absolutely, it actually gets very easy with an airbrush, because you can do filters and tints so easily and smoothly with an airbrush.

[@thelonepainter4760]

Great video as always Vince!! Can we see some future content on how to paint different shades of wood 🪵.👍🏽😁

[@VinceVenturella]

Great suggestion!

[@KingBollock]

I really want to try the Vallejo Metal Color paints but I am having trouble working out which one is closest to the old Vallejo Model Air Metallic Gunmetal. I can't afford to buy too many to try to start with, but if I can find that starting point colour, I can pick a darker and a brighter version to go with it.

[@KTP51]

VMC has one called gunmetal grey though, should be similar enough.

[@KingBollock]

K. I think it looks far darker than the VMA version, but I don't know what it looks like in person, as it were. From what I can see from pictures online, the Duraluminium seems the closest.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, I think something like the Dark Aluminum might actually be the closest. Gunmetal is very dark and blue/grey/black.

[@KingBollock]

Vince Venturella Thank you! I don't mind experimenting with the other colours in the range, but that's a colour I use a lot and am used to. The colours I know that I want are the gold, copper and jet exhaust. So now I shall add dark aluminium and figure out one either side of it, for now. At £6.75 a bottle, that'll be plenty to be getting on with...

[@TheRunesmythe]

Their steel is also very close to gunmetal in tone.

[@eranroseman]

Great video. I tried to do something similar in the past. The result looked more like a Car’s pear metallic paint then a true blue metal. I ended up buying Vallejo air metallic blue. Any idea what might have gone wrong? And why not just use a colored metallic paint? I start using acrylic inks. I have white and orange and they are really great. They a all amazing when airbrushed. I find them to be more like Vallejo Air then ink as they are not really transparent. Can any thinned paint can be used?

[@VinceVenturella]

Well, part of the reason I don't like to use colored metallics, is I don't know what they mixed in to make that "colored" metallic. I don't know what the pigment mix is, the hue, etc. so things can get funky. It's one of the reasons I love the glaze technique, as it keeps everything separate and you get a much truer metal shine coming through. As to using any thinned paint, the answer is technically yes, but I would stay with inks and ghost tints, and the reason is because paint is often made to dry very matte (where as Ink is not) and hence will really kill your metal shine right out.

[@Kwago1]

Nice technique, would you any suggestions for a less grainy metallic paint brands for airbrushing?

[@VinceVenturella]

Many, I have several videos in the playlist about metal paints, but Vallejo Metal Color steel is really the way to go and totally airbrush ready.

[@fliddhead]

hey vince, nice hobby tip! i honestly thought the colored metallics of warcolour would make an appearance here though! did you ever try them? the turqouise metal looks like it could be a nice way for all these alpha legion players to get the teal scheme forgeworld uses

[@VinceVenturella]

I honestly am not a big fan of the metallics from Warcolours. I do own some and have tried them, but they are the only part of the Warcolours line I didn't like. For me, I have enjoyed doing this much more, but as always YMMV.

[@kellyaudia]

Vince! Any chance you could show how to shoot inks and such through an airbrush? I’ve never done it but hear lots about it. Do you thin it and with what, etc.?

[@VinceVenturella]

I will add it to the list. I will say, it's a VERY useful tool through the airbrush. It helps bring colors in line, makes filters really easy and get's rid of the "airbrushed" look.

[@EviLNox8]

Have you ever used the liquatex inks? Im also think about getting the intensity set from scale 75.

[@VinceVenturella]

I have, they are generally fine and a fine substitute for FW inks.

[@tardisadric]

What are your thoughts on mixing the target color with metalic medium as a way to achieve colored metalics? Are you planning a vid on colored NMM?

[@VinceVenturella]

I have never really been a fan. The metal medium has such large pigment that it always a funny look. What I have been doing lately and will likely make a video on is using the Vallejo Metal Color and then laying the Metalsmith Ores over top, it has a really nice look I am enjoying. Yes, I am going to do more NMM and colored NMM videos, the first will likely be teal/turquoise.

[@wwoolofl8056]

Working on some synth wave Necrons, do you think neon inks would work well for tinting metal? Or should I just use traditional colored inks

[@VinceVenturella]

I think they could work well for sure. They will cover quite a bit of the metallics, you might have to mix a litlle of the metallic in, not sure, you will need to play with the mix.

[@cyriaccyriac7385]

How would you go about adding highlights after you glazed the inks? Would you suggest that I preshade beforehand?

[@VinceVenturella]

What was this in reference to? Usually just a simple layer or drybrush depending on the situation.

[@brettcanter7029]

Hi Vince! Would you do anything different to achieve a metallic green effect?

[@VinceVenturella]

Nope, just switch for a nice bright green ink. :)

[@valdusaurelian]

Could you do the same technique, but airbrush an even layer of the ink over? Planning on doing Grey Knights and I want a blue tint to my steel.

[@VinceVenturella]

100%

[@griffglowen5555]

Hi Vince, just wondering if you prefer using contrast paints for this these days or still use the inks?

[@VinceVenturella]

Some of both, honestly, I use them pretty interchangably.

[@maphi8914]

Thanks for pointing me to the video! Did you experiment with Metal Medium as well?

[@maphi8914]

OK, reading through the comments I found the answer 🙂

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, in general, metal medium is pretty worthless sadly, you're better starting from a silver and working in the color.

[@kharchieff]

Whats the diffefence between the 2 types of inks? Or are they the same type of inks just different collor?

[@VinceVenturella]

One is vallejo one is FW ink, both are similar. The Game Ink is a bit more matte, but they are pretty interchangable.

[@joshgifford5821]

Would badger ghost tints over metal be a another good option for tinting metal? I have yet to try it but I'm assuming that would be a good option seeing as the ghost tint has a gloss to it when dry.

[@VinceVenturella]

Absolutely. Ghost Tints are also great for this. They are better through the airbrush for this, but can brush on if you control the paint amount carefully.

[@TheRunesmythe]

I would imagine the effect would something like the GW Gemstone effect paints with a wider variety of color.

[@nickmanzo8459]

I recently got some Vallejo metallic medium, haven’t had a chance to play with it yet, would this work similarly to mixing color with metal?

[@VinceVenturella]

I will be honest, I have some of that, and I don't love it. It's got fairly large pigment. It's okay, but sometimes it can look a little more like glitter than metal.

[@jaster705]

is there any difference between metal colors and normal game colors or the scale75 vallejo variant?

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, HUGE difference. There is no other metal paint on the market right now like Vallejo Metal Color. Now, Badger just released something and I haven't tried that yet, but aside from that, I have tried all the metal paints on the market right now in Acrylic. The Vallejo Metal Color is much more medium heavy, much more liquid and easy to blend and smooth with a high sheen finish. Now all that being said, they are clearly my favorite by far, but either of the techniques that I show here work with most any steel paint on the market.

[@Steff_kjns]

Damn Vince, you cover near everything in your vids

[@VinceVenturella]

That's the goal. :)

[@benhamill2861]

Have you, or anyone else, ever found that the vallejo metal colours seem to seperate (in the pot) with a lot of sediment settling at the bottom? Is it enough to just give it a good stir in order to return it to its original colour? It can be several weeks between painting metallics so I'm assuming that why this is happening.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, if you let them sit there, they will separate, my first step is always to swish them around in the palette (or shake them thoroughly in the pot, I use pewter agitators), they mix right back up without issue.

[@benhamill2861]

Thanks again Vince.

[@armageddon054]

Question Vince, how does this method work with mixing Metal paint with a thicker Base paint like Mephiston Red from GW? I was thinking of doing this with some Blood Angels. Does the thickness of the base paint effect the thinned metallic paint too much?

[@VinceVenturella]

So you can do it, it will look "less metallic", you can actually see that in practice in this video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/il7KqnyFaLOWps0

[@armageddon054]

@@VinceVenturella Gotcha thank you Vince. I'll check out the video!

[@shankley_has_a_brush]

What model is this? I love it. I'm building a slaves to darkness army right now.

[@VinceVenturella]

It's the Gorebeast from the gorebeast chariot.

[@maxbrandt6]

I remember GW producing a boxed set of colored metallic paints back in the early 90s, it was a poor seller and discontinued quickly. I guess colored metallics is an "acquired taste" for painters.

[@VinceVenturella]

I suspect so, which is a shame. I remember the purple metallic from that time and it was awesome.

[@KerfluffinMcWooly]

Why do you use a plastic palette for metals and not a wet palette?

[@VinceVenturella]

Metal pigment is very polluting, if it gets off the palette or gets in the other paint in any way, you get glitter paint. In addition to that, you need to control the water in your metal paint very carefully, water doesn't really work well with metal paint due to the nature of solvents with metal pigment.

[@KerfluffinMcWooly]

Thanks again.

[@EdgarPaulk]

Excelent Video! BTW... you sound exactly like Steve Buscemi!

[@VinceVenturella]

I get that fairly often. I don't hear it, but at this point it must be true so maybe I have a good secondary career lined up. :)

[@ltjamescoopermason8685]

Afraid I couldn't see due to your hand or camra angle causing problems at the begining .

[@VinceVenturella]

Sorry about that, I have mostly resolved this at this point for current videos.

[@kathrynrobinson-burge7661]

Your videos are always educational and/or interesting but I do wish the camera work was a little better. I find it difficult to see what you're doing which is a shame as I'm sure it's invaluable.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, this is a pretty old video, it's something I've certainly improved since this time. :)

[@marksminis]

Love all the tutorials! Great for me, a nOOB. Fyi, standard armor nomenclature: "Shoulder Pad" should be "Pauldron" en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pauldron

[@VinceVenturella]

Totally fair. I will watch my nomenclature from here out. ;)