Holograms On My Dad's Car

[@MD_YASIN_360]

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[@jamas747]

😮 That is just terrible service! But then again you see this more often than not for a vehicle coming from the panelshop. But at least mask off properly 😔

[@mdworkshop3919]

Absolutely bru...I can't believe someone will let car leave like this...as I mentioned, he should have rather told my dad he's not good at the polishing/compounding part and would recommend a detailer to attend to it. And fortunately for my dad he has me but how many people don't have access to a detailer or will think this is okay.

[@0togtr811]

Your advice is not accurate at all dont know if it's just that your knowledge on detailing is limited or you got the wrong info.

[@mdworkshop3919]

Please enlighten me as to what you are referring to as not being accurate?

[@0togtr811]

@@mdworkshop3919 A rotary is what caused the holograms in the first place so telling people you can use a rotary to remove it is not the best idea it takes hours behind a rotary to be able to finish down with it correctly. No bodyshop is going to tape trim up and use shield sp9 to clean up. This is one of those where you get what you pay for, not to say you can't get a good deal on a respray and get an oem finish. The pad you using is horrible, its cheap foam, i know you can do better then that. The finishing polish you using is very old there is so much better out there that would have got the job done correctly. The sanding marks you speak of is not in the clear coat, its under the clear coat because again you get what you paid for. I dont know what DA you using but here is a tip, to finish out real good use a medium cutting pad and not a finishing pad, those are for applying old school waxes, its too soft causing the DA not to be able to transfer its DA momtion correctly because the foam is horrible. The last time I checked proper detailing products in SA are not that expensive and you called yourself a detailer, so? I'm not in SA any longer or I would actually put my money where my mouth is and show you what I'm saying works because I've been right there where you are. Just good proper products is going to make the experience so much better and easier. Not sure if you graduated from the university of KZbin or actually had formal training or if it's just a weekend thing but I take it that you had formal training because you said you a detailer. I'm not a detailer by profession but learnt alot belonging to a family of bodyshop owners and workshops. Just go and get better products and leave shield alone.

[@mdworkshop3919]

@0togtr811 ...okay, so we're going to have a proper adult conversation which is a good thing. You can most definitely finish or refine paint with a rotary polisher. Unfortunately you are incorrect with your assumption that it will take hours, it's quite the opposite. The difference is, with a rotary it happens much mucj more faster, so it requires faster movement and most importantly an eye as you move the machine. FYI, I learned how to detail on a makita rotary a while back( more than 20 years if you needed that info, from a rep at Marouns), whilst I know how to use it, I much prefer a DA, personal preference. I get the sense that you refer to good products as being products that are expensive, and if that is the case, that is laughable at best. With regards to SP9, have you used the product before, because if you did, you'd understand just how great a product it is at removing new or old polish residue. You are correct about one thing, I do have many products at my disposal and having used many of these products I can tell you, whether you use a DAT or SMAT based formulation, nano based formula or gold old fashioned gritty compound with the wet system, top of the line pads or easily accessible pads, if you cannot produce a good result because of knowing how to use the products, no amount of splashing money is going to change the fact that you don't what you're doing or talking about. This video, I achieved my initial result which was to remove the holograms...done and dusted, unfortunately as I mentioned and you eluded to it as well...the sanding marks were still visible which are embedded into the clearcoat...from compounding this weekend, and lol using again SHIELD products, I was able to remove the marks and achieve the result I wanted without sanding the surface. I want to finish off with this...having done this for a while, I think I have earned the means to know what I'm talking about and giving real world answers instead of surmising opinions based off the idea of how something works.