Home Chinese Diesel Heater - Portable | Efficient | Safe

[@Mr-Curious]

suggestion: just make a box metal box that has the entire unit outside. Just run the heat inside. Less noise no diesel smell. If you fill it outside no spilling ever inhouse. A 'safer feeling'. Nothing unsafe can happen. you can even bolt it to the wall against theft.

[@geenote]

Thank you that is a good suggestion that could ease any worries.

[@earthenergyhex]

great idea

[@blmartech]

Agreed, keeping the unit outside will be a lot safer, less chance of carbon monoxide. Not sure if you have one nearby, but might want to put one near it

[@Dy3rMak3r]

But then it will take the cold air from the outside instead from inside, making it less efficient...

[@Mr-Curious]

@@Dy3rMak3r you can easlily route some aluminium pipe for the intake.

[@nathanmciver6496]

Yup your awesome! This will heat a basement! No issue on that!!!!! Didn't dought this when I had seen this before and now got to try this for myself! Motivating to use this heater myself and see the temps

[@geenote]

If having the unit inside worries you, it can always sit outside protected from the elements. It won't be as efficient but still work pretty good. I use it that way on my truck shell and RV. Thanks.

[@IW4DBX]

Hello from Italy, I would like to suggest you to increase intake clearence from the wall by 1,5 times the diameter of the intake pipe. This will improve the performance of the the heater and decrease the output temperature as well. Mine have 90 celsius degrees while running at minimum power.

[@geenote]

I have worked in Italy and would love to visit again. Thank you for the suggestions!

[@IW4DBX]

@@geenote don't miss to share with me some good time, we'll share some diy tricks

[@bjrnclausen978]

Love your video - i was planning to install heat pump - i am currently using methane from Putin.....- I will try to imitate your installation. Thanks!

[@geenote]

Thank you!

[@anonymousfotaba8909]

Informative thank you, one one problem I see. Exhaust and fresh air hoses to close together fresh air be drawing in exhaust fumes. I believe instructions say opisite ends.

[@geenote]

The air intake hose next to the exhaust is only for the sealed heat chamber to feed the fire. The heated air that you breath enters through the back of the unit.

[@sroberts605]

Excellent video, many thanks from the UK.

[@geenote]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you - Cheers!

[@jasonsmith6408]

I've got a 5kw in my homeade truck camper. Often thought about using one like this in my house. Incredibly efficient!

[@geenote]

I agree this inexpensive heater is very efficient and produces clean, dry heat! I have this all-in-one version ready for testing on my truck shell in freezing weather and I hope it's not too much heat for the small space. So far it works great in my basement. Thanks for watching!

[@RonaldMiddleton-yq5sn]

Everything works great day 1 no complaints yet

[@geenote]

Good.

[@davidpedder9048]

I tried a 8kw diesel heater in my house a few years ago. It works very well as long as it is not extremely windy outside. If a strong wind blows directly on the muffler, the carbon monoxide will be pushed back into the room and the heater will shut down.

[@geenote]

Good to know. Thanks! 👍

[@life_of_riley88]

Seems like some sort of wind box/diffuser could be built to get around that issue. How well did it heat your house, and how many square feet?

[@geenote]

@@life_of_riley88 I easily heat my basement workshop which is around 12' X 30'.

[@life_of_riley88]

@@geenote Thanks! Sounds like these little things put out some good heat.

[@XRinger]

I wonder if there were other factors at work, besides the wind pressure.?. It seems like a 1" diameter opening in the muffler isn't going to pick up a lot of air. If it did, pointing the muffler down towards the ground should fix the problem.

[@dereckcensner8439]

Looks great, I bought one for our tiny house up north and am thinking of putting one in my garage at home. The only issue I see with your setup is refueling could be cumbersome.

[@geenote]

Yes refueling can be a pain. Luckily a tank lasts long enough each time I use it. I remove it from the window after each use and refill the tank before next time. If I had it permanently mounted I would have to get a bigger fuel tank. Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@GhiaSteve89]

Keith, I just found your video as I've purchased a diesel heater like yours for my garage. I wanted to bring up the power concerns you had. The way you have it setup going now is you're taking wall power and converting to 12v dc to charge the UPS batteries and then creating wall power again. then you've got a 12v power supply plugged in to the ups so you're converting back to 12v power. you could add a power tap off of the internal batteries in the UPS battery backup and eliminate the 12v power brick all together.

[@geenote]

Makes sense....so basically use the UPS as a battery charger. My concern would be if the UPS can charge the battery enough to keep up with the amp draw of the heater. The heater pulls minimum 0.5 amps on low after pulling 10 amps on start up and cool down for a few minutes. This low end UPS will make sure the battery stays charged but only uses the inverter when there is a black out (and hopefully a brown out) at which time the internal transfer switch will switch to battery and inverter circuit. So the battery is not used to create wall power until I get a black out. I have a few of these old UPS units laying around....maybe I will modify one now that you got me thinking so I can maybe get rid of the power brick. Thanks for the tip!

[@caerbanoginterrupted1833]

@@geenote I would just hook up a larger battery and see if it keeps it charged.

[@gsatiucla5139]

Hi. I've seen other videos suggesting to use a battery and trickle charger but they never showed or explained how to hook them up. Is it just a matter of connecting red connectors (charger & heater) to the positive battery terminal and black connectors (charger & heater) to the negative battery terminal? Also, they don't mention about the sizing or rating of the battery and charger. Could you please comment or recommend something to that effect? Let's just assume I will be using the same heater in this video which you also used in your garage. I live in a very cold climate and needs to prepare in case of a prolonged power outage, just in case. Thanks in advance.

[@geenote]

@@gsatiucla5139 The charger would be connected to the battery terminals red to red (+) and black to black (-) just like the heater is connected. The battery has to be big enough to supply enough amp hours to run the heater for the length of time you want. The charger has to be able to charge the battery fast enough to also keep the charge up. It depends on how high the heater setting is while running and how long the heater is running, At the lowest heat setting, the unit only draws around 0.5 amps. The higher the heat setting - the more amps it uses. When the heater first starts up it pulls around10 amps for a few minutes then drops down after the glow plug turns off which is what ignites the fire. When you turn the unit off, it once again pulls around 10 amps for a couple minutes because the glow plug turns back on during the shut down cycle to burn off any build up. I think you should consider a deep cycle AGM type battery rated at 100 amp hours and a smart/automatic 10 amp battery charger to keep it charged up. If your power stays off for a few days, then maybe you would need a solar charger like the one I just posted kzbin.info/www/bejne/aqmUeJ-DqNh2oLM Hope this helps.

[@g.l.3009]

Great and timely video as I am installing same unit in my barn/shop. Most helpful! Keep them coming, thanks.

[@geenote]

Awesome, thank you!

[@mattdudley3789]

I operate 2 of these with 30A 3D printer power supplies. They run best with the voltage around 13.5V so that is what I turned them up to. One of them uses an arduino to switch the dial on/ off thermostat on and off with the use of a regular 'home' type thermostat. It does not work perfectly and glitches off once in a while, but it works good enough. Heats 120 sq/ ft on about 1.5hz but it turns on and off with the thermostat system.

[@geenote]

Pretty good that you have the unit actually turn completely off and then back on automatically as needed especially when ac power is available and pulling higher amperage every time the unit cycles on or off is not an issue. Most people are not going to be able or willing to program a PLC or microprocessor to use this heater that way but it's impressive that you were able to do that. Thanks for sharing some interesting information!

[@mattdudley3789]

@@geenote It actually runs 2 lines of very basic code to make it work. As an amature with arduino myself, I got it to work good enough so I left it there.. The arduino just 'presses' the on/ off buttons with a couple relays using the thermostat as a switched input. Biggest issue was getting leads soldered onto the controller board. I got the idea from another youtube video that used cellular triggers, and I swapped the thermostat and arduino in.

[@geenote]

@@mattdudley3789 That's pretty cool. I work with (mostly Allen Bradley) PLC's and always have a couple small units laying around. It might be a fun project to play around with an old home thermostat and PLC to do something like you did.

[@paulspringsteen8019]

I use mine to heat my double walled greenhouse up here north of lake Superior Canada year-round. works great.

[@geenote]

That's impressive in such a cold climate compared to my neck of the woods. These units work pretty good. Thanks!

[@J297WFD]

I worked for American Power Conversion (APC) in the 80s when they first started in Burlington Ma. I was a bench tech and also did shipping when they needed help. I was offered to go to school and become an engineer and work for them. I went another direction in life but had I stayed with them I would have become a millionaire! The company sold for billions I believe. Anyways cool idea.

[@geenote]

Good story. There was probably a reason you took the path you did and was meant to be. Thanks for sharing.

[@fastacker2]

The founder of that company was my dentist's son. He dropped out of college to focus on running the company. I think he was a EE at MIT.

[@J297WFD]

@@fastacker2 yes manny

[@terrafirma9328]

Millionaires can never buy back lost time and other values of life sacrificed in the pursuit of money. Be thankful for the blessings you would have missed out on that are priceless.

[@QUADBOYification]

Nice modular and foremost portable solution. Many apartments or small (studio) homes would like to have this as an alternative heating backup system if the regular system would fail or just is to expensive in winter. Having a large enough battery (1KWh) to maintain heating while power from the wall is off seams essential if you live in rural areas. It is definitely enough capacity with 27.000 BTU's. If it only costs a few dollars a day to heat your small cabin or home it might be a cost saving to go off the grid.

[@geenote]

Very good points made. Thanks for sharing !

[@jaycobjones2760]

I do this for my garage. But I have one suggestion…. You should leave your fresh air intake inside the basement rather than outside. By moving it inside would avoid fumes from the exhaust. Also, the efficiency would increase due to the warmer air in the basement.

[@XRinger]

Edited 12/18/2021 21:40 Eastern: The Burn-air-intake hose (& filter) should be indoors. Not only because it will help remove any trace of CO, but all other airborne particulate. Like pollen, shop-cutting-drilling 'dust' products, stale air, and Radon gas (which can be pretty dangerous). My basement Radon level is low, but increases quickly whenever heavy rain or melting snow soaks down into the granite rocks under my home, releasing large amounts of Radon gas.

[@geenote]

Thank you for the suggestion. The fresh air intake that pulls air across the heat chamber which is heated, reheated and breathed, is already inside the basement located in back of the unit. The air intake hose that is outside is only used for the fire inside the heat chamber. If I move the little hose inside that is used to feed the fire, then it is noisy and will also pull oxygen out of a small well sealed room (especially like my truck camper or RV). Halfway into this video explains the 2 air intakes: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rXK0lpuEr9Z0jbs

[@XRinger]

@@geenote I edited my post above, to make sure I was clear about "The Burn-air-intake hose (& filter) should be indoors." I was referring to heating the basement only. Most basement I've seen, have small amounts air leaking in from upstairs or outside. Heating system Oil burners and some gas hot water heaters draw basement air directly from the room where they are installed. If the basement was sealed really tight, the installer would pipe in some outside air (to feed the fire chamber) in a 3" PVC pipe. I wonder how many CFM air flow these 8K diesel heaters use? My guess it's pretty low. Pulling wet outside air into your heater's burn chamber when it's raining (100% humidity) seems like it might create steam and maybe make water in the exhaust pipe.?. Not sure why the air intake hose (& filter) would make much noise. I didn't notice it when I was testing outdoors. But, my ears are 75 years old. :) If your camper or RV is that air-tight, you might want to open a window if you plan to be inside for more than a half hour. Rebreathing your own air isn't safe. Too much CO2.

[@geoffreylohff3876]

I'd like to point out that that APC UPS has a 12VDC battery in it. If you wanted, you could just bring out a 12VDC connection directly (w/ a fuse or breaker) to your heater power input. It would save a bunch of "extra stuff". FYI

[@geenote]

So true! Someone else also pointed that out and got me thinking. I have a couple of those UPS units laying around so maybe I will "modify" one and basically use it as a battery charger. My concern would be if the UPS can charge the battery quick enough to keep up with the amp draw that the heater will be pulling. Thanks for the tip!

[@geoffreylohff3876]

@@geenote If you kill/lose the power to the fuel pump (but keep power to the rest of the heater), the unit will gracefully shutdown. You could rig up a low voltage shutdown that way.

[@geenote]

@@geoffreylohff3876 I seen on YT videos how these heaters shut down when they run out of fuel so that makes sense. I'm still learning and appreciate any tips or ideas. Thanks!

[@geoffreylohff3876]

@@geenote This guy has dug deeper into these (on KZbin) than anyone I know. This link is how he setup a (simple) method of keeping from deep discharge of your battery. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ioimZqJ9isSEjbs

[@terrafirma9328]

Maybe look into buildimg a custom wind generator to capture the forcex air and recharge the battery some😉

[@josephsmuckatelly8767]

Have you thought about ruing the exhaust pipe inside of the (larger) intake pipe to help preheat combustion air? Theoretically should increase efficiency.

[@geenote]

I have a kerosene Monitor brand heater in my garage that uses a two wall pipe like that.

[@g.l.3009]

Thanks for the video. You are running just ahead of my install in my barn/shop. Your information has been most helpful! And keep them coming.

[@geenote]

Thanks, will do!

[@TheFitzjohn]

Just an idea, if you make an enclosure around your heat pump condensing unit with this heater inside the enclosure the heat pump would work far better(during colder months) and you could use the heat pump to heat the entire home

[@geenote]

I may have to check into that. Thanks for the tip!

[@OlTrailDog]

However, for my interest in alternative heat source during electricity outage this would not work as the air sourced heat pump requires electricity to function. What brought me to the diesel possibility is it would be possible to power the diesel heater with my truck battery during the outage.

[@cptcosmo]

I bought one of these units to heat my small condo (I only have electric heat) and for winter camping.

[@geenote]

It is surprising how much heat these little units put out.

[@monty1084]

Very good Keith, I would have liked to see a more In depth vlog, could it heat a log cabin for instance , costs of everything, running costs, test to let run a whole week over night. But saying that, this has opened my eyes enormously to alternative heating system. We'll done.

[@geenote]

The manual claims it uses 0.1 liters of fuel per hour on low but that may be a stretch. I believe you could get 24 hrs on a gallon running on low. The longest I let it run constant is probably not much over 8 or 9 hours on a low setting. There are quite a few diesel heater videos on KZbin you can check out for more information. Here is another video I have testing the heater on my truck camper that may be helpful. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZOtk4lud9p0hdU Thank you for watching and let me know if I can answer any questions.

[@missouritraveler6401]

Looks like You have made it as safe as possible. lots of good ideas You've incorporated. Do You have any smell of Diesel fumes? Stay Safe and behave Yourself.

[@geenote]

No fumes at all and the heat is dry. I added a thin sheet of stainless steel under the legs and 4 rubber feet a couple days ago which makes it even safer. This little heater has been a good investment. Hope you're doing well. Thanks!

[@NitroLambretta]

@@geenote use in my expediter van

[@geenote]

@@NitroLambretta Nice! Fellow KZbinr "Expedite Travels" does the same thing. His comment and channel are below in the comments if you want to check out his set up....

[@GP-pw5wb]

Like this idea alot, I would probably consider a little more of a permanent fixture in taking the exhaust straight out through the wall and mounting the unit inside a cabinet fixed to the wall with the heat outlet via duct vent grille. Would help reduce the operating noise, keep the window for natural light and reduce the risk of exhaust fumes entering the room. Ok you would have to drill your wall but looking at your workshop that should not be too much of an issue. Off to plan my own heating project with a similar unit.

[@geenote]

That's a good idea and I considered doing that upstairs. I don't mind having it temporary since I move the heater around using it in different places. Thanks and good luck with your project!

[@ExpediteTravels]

Very cool idea 💡 I've seen another guy in England heat his sun room in his house with one of these units

[@geenote]

This little heater is awesome as you know. I'm looking forward to using it on the truck shell in freezing temps. It does good in my workroom but it might be too much heat for that small space. Thanks and be safe out there.

[@ExpediteTravels]

@@geenote yeah it'll definitely roast you out of the truck show you're probably going to have to keep a window open slightly

[@jasonyoung4839]

Good idea but yes much better with the unit outside , just a hole in for heat and extended the controls wire so all done indoors 👍🏻👍🏻

[@geenote]

Yes - safer and still works great that way! 👍

[@douglaswhite1306]

There's a lot of complaints about shooting up in the burn chamber if you run these heaters low for long periods and then they won't restart. If you keep it running moderately hot but circulate some of the heat upstairs, it'll last for years.

[@geenote]

I make a habit of running it on high for while before shutting it down. Maybe that will help keep it cleaned out.

[@NZGROUFSKYNZ]

Hi there what are the Humes like as I be interesting using one of these in our house for our kids but I don't want to poison them

[@geenote]

No Fumes. All exhaust is out the window.

[@wictor1976]

Why do you pull cold air from outside? I would take the intake air from the room. That would also prevent getting exhaust fumes in.

[@geenote]

The air pulled in from the outside is only for the fire inside the heat chamber and is in no way breathed or entering the room. The air being heated and breathed enters the back of the unit which is the air inside the room.

[@tx2sturgis]

I wonder if it made it thru the first winter before it failed.

[@geenote]

Still working/no problems.

[@siriustraveler7083]

I am setting mine up tomorrow outside my house to heat the living room and kitchen area as my propane wall heater lacks getting everything warm hopefully this will go well

[@geenote]

Should work good.

[@rickrife5791]

I wonder, I have easy undisturbed access to my dryer vent. I bet I could set this whole unit outside, hook up to the dryer vent, and just open the dryer inside the house for a power outage situation. Thoughts?

[@geenote]

Definitely! You can get a reducer at Lowes that goes from 4" to 3" hose to use. By sitting the unit outside and bringing in cold air to be heated, the heated air won't be as warm but will still be warm enough to be effective. Just keep the unit out of the rain, snow, etc. You would need a charged up battery and maybe a solar panel to keep it charged. I am posting a new video this weekend on a cheap and simple solar charging station.

[@terrafirma9328]

Be sure to clean the dryer vent out well. 😳

[@moonshinepz]

Great video. Thinking about one of these for my garage workshop. I think I'll be looking to putting a diesel tank outside.

[@geenote]

Garage workshop is a good application and external tank is a nice upgrade. Thank you!

[@moonshinepz]

@@geenote yea its a 20x10ft space, just want the edge taking off the cold in the winter - spent a lot of time insulating and draught proofing last year and it helped, there is home brew and all sorts going on in here lol. I might add a carbon monoxide detector just to be on the safe side.

[@geenote]

@@moonshinepz Should work good especially with insulation. Home brew...I can't think of a better use of a garage! 😂

[@COYO-T]

You can use any computer power supply to run 12 volt appliances. Years ago made a stereo for use at work with computer power supply a car stereo and even used two computer fans to create air flow in the wooden box that holds everything.

[@geenote]

Nice ! I think it's great using scrap parts for something useful. 👍

[@lmlowe9100]

Where can you buy the thermcraft high heat panels? Thanks.

[@geenote]

I suggest calling them and asking for a local distributor. Check out their website for information.

[@sammayer1633]

I am guessing that the Thermcraft sheet you used in the window is not Expanded Polystyrene Board Insulation. Correct?

[@geenote]

Correct - it is not. This material is denser and heavier. I easily cut it out with a hand saw. It is made to insulate high temp ovens and such.

[@wheater5]

I don’t think that condensation in the bend in the exhaust so close to the heater would ever be a problem. The temperature and exhaust gas flow directly under the heater outlet is enough to melt solder on copper pipes, let alone evaporate water....I soon discovered that; my heater is the same as yours. I think these are great heaters; I’ve just switched mine on in my workshop.

[@geenote]

I wasn't sure about that - good to know. I agree these things are great. Thank you!

[@Foundmylsswap]

Have you left this running over night? Would you leaving running unattended?

[@geenote]

I have not left it running overnight at my house but I have left it for an hour or so unattended with no worries. I feel that it is safe and I have used it many hours in this same set up. Thank you for checking it out.

[@nancykennon310]

Used coal oil heaters in the 70's in N. Carolina and fireplace. The old house was built before 1918.

[@geenote]

I grew up burning wood and coal for heat. 👍

[@chuckcompton3622]

You may want to check the spacing of the fresh air supply to the exhaust outlet. Where I live 3 feet is code.

[@geenote]

It may not make a difference but the outside air intake hose is only for the inside heat chamber which is a sealed unit. If the intake pulled in exhaust fumes it is still only in a sealed heat chamber. The room air is pulled in through the back and gets heated as it flows over the heat chamber and exits the other side. I will ask about the code in my area to make sure. Thanks for pointing that out. This video shows more detail of how the heater works and is made. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oXjdpGhjiJdrd80

[@radar-yp9br]

Chuck you think hes worried about code

[@terrafirma9328]

Codes are made for safety reasons. It doesn't hurt to consider using them for that for your own sake, not just because your told too. They where designed so clumsy greedy contractors don't take dangerous shortcuts that cause injury customers.

[@dannywilliams6643]

How hot does the ceramic fireboard get, say 2 inches away from the hole?

[@geenote]

I can touch the panel next to the exhaust and not get burned. The exhaust pipe does not touch the insulated panel if properly positioned.

[@Linus007]

Interesting video. I have a Kerosene heater and finding kerosene is hard, replacing it with a diesel heater might make sense. Burning up unused kerosene might be needed in my case. Have you used kerosene? One other item, red diesel is untaxed, you might want to check it out. I use it in my diesel generator.

[@geenote]

I've seen where kerosene will work but someone smarter than me pointed out that K1 kerosene may not have enough lubrication for the fuel pump to work good over time. I only use diesel. I didn't realize the red diesel is untaxed. I try to use the white kerosene in my garage kerosene heater because someone said it was cleaner. Thanks for the tip!

[@nicksmith8166]

Just run the kersoene mixed with diesel til it's gone

[@kb0guy]

50 50 low sulphur diesel and filtered used motor.oil

[@jacobhendrickson8935]

Man you make excellent videos

[@geenote]

I appreciate that! Thank you!

[@willduke69]

Great review.. Im thinking about buying one.. Im just curious if you can tell me the brand name of your unit.. Thank you

[@geenote]

The tag on mine says "New Ideas".

[@caerbanoginterrupted1833]

You can also use desktop/tower style computer power supplies. I used a mini power supply which has enough voltage and amperage to power the 5kw version.

[@geenote]

I have a couple old PC's laying around with good power supplies. Thanks for the tip!

[@caerbanoginterrupted1833]

@@geenote Yes, if I remember correctly, green and black on the motherboard plug fused together with a paperclip turns on an ATX power supply. Do research that first.

[@geenote]

@@caerbanoginterrupted1833 I'll check it out. Thanks!

[@Poncho758]

This is very interesting I’m thinking about using it do you heat my garage space. Which I’ve cut down to 12’x20’ rather then my kerosene heater. Which is 4.00 gal.

[@geenote]

I had the same idea to heat my garage but have not tried it yet. I have a kerosene heater in garage and diesel is definitely cheaper. Thanks!

[@Andy-qo6rq]

You can change the hz setting to read a temperature setting 👍

[@geenote]

Yes. Then the sensor built into the controller will maintain the set room temperature. When I tested this method, the heater never shuts off when it reaches the set point - it just goes to the lowest setting and runs on low until the room cools back down then the heater ramps back up again. If the room temperature was getting too warm even on the lowest possible temperature setting (and there is a low limit), the unit would still just keep on running until you push the off button to shut it down. Hope this helps.

[@BeyondWrittenWords]

Styrox in the window will melt due to exhaust pipe heat?

[@geenote]

I'm sure it would....I would not recommend doing that.

[@frank88ster]

I would run intake fresh air from either 1) outside or 2) inside. Intake n outlet C/monoxide so close together can end up sucking bad monoxide back into space.??

[@geenote]

The intake hose next to exhaust is only going to sealed heat chamber to feed the fire. The fresh air intake for air that I breath enters through the back of the unit. All safe....Thanks!

[@freedom_aint_free]

You should have some sort of variable bypass valve in the cold air intake mixed with the room air, there is you should have a "Y" connection that would allow you to mix the outside clean but really cold air with the room already warm air, so that you could choose if you want to heat the outside air (fresh, clean but expensive to heat as it is really cold air) with the already warm (potentially not so fresh but cheap to heat as it is already warm air).

[@geenote]

The air that is heated and enters the room (and breathed) pulls in through the back of the unit which is already inside. The outside air intake hose is only for making fire in the sealed heat chamber. If the heater was mounted outside then it might benefit bringing already heated air through the back of the unit which I've seen done before. Thanks!

[@EskoHaavisto]

The heated air is very hot. Should you not insulate the steel hot air elbow pipe towards the wooden window frame?

[@geenote]

Not a bad idea. I make sure it doesn't touch the wall but some insulation wouldn't hurt. Thanks!

[@glenn9892]

After having and probably using the heater for some time how has it held up ? and could you provide a make and model and a link to where you purchased it ?

[@geenote]

I have been using this heater most every weekend lately. I have not had any problems at all! I think these heaters are all very similar. I purchased mine from Amazon. I think the 5kw and 8kw are maybe the same unit. I paid way less than what it is now so you can probably shop around for a good deal. Thanks. smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WRZ9HV5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@steverentfrow2415]

Thanks for your video. Why do you need to put the fresh air intake outside? Wouldn't it be better to have the heated inside air cycled in the intake instead of the cold winter air having to be heated?

[@geenote]

Thanks for watching and good question. The fresh air intake is only for the fire inside the sealed heat chamber. Pulling fresh air outside for the fire does not use up oxygen in a small heated room and does not affect the heated air that is being pulled across the outside of the heat chamber. The air that is heated enters the back of the unit. This video explains it better kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZOtk4lud9p0hdU.

[@LANTER2300]

The intake and exhaust look like they're too close and i may suck in exhaust fumes. Could the intake be inside the basement so that the warm air goes through the heater again ?

[@geenote]

The outside air intake is only for the fire inside the heat chamber. The heated air that I breath enters through the back of the unit which is reheated as it flows across the outside of the heat chamber. This video (about halfway through) may explain better: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rXK0lpuEr9Z0jbs

[@JohnSmith-pu6fy]

I have the same exact heater 8kw but with the 4 blower ports instead of just one big blow port and it is a disappointment. I mean it's not horrible just had higher hopes from 8kw. Whatever you do buy one that has the same single heat blower port like the one in this video.

[@geenote]

I would think the 4 port design would be about the same as the single port. The test in this video was around 70 degrees going in the heater and 210 degrees coming out on the lowest setting....I think it was 1.5 hz in manual mode. I think it will go up to 5 or 5.5 hz on high.

[@JohnSmith-pu6fy]

What I have done is left the intake hose inside the building so that the air going in is warmer. It will run more efficiently, burn cleaner and warmer heat.

[@CCWSig]

In a house setting its probably ok. Wouldn't do it in a vehicle that way though. Having the intake inside creates a negative air pressure, and can potentially draw fumes inside of the closed space.

[@geenote]

I totally agree! The intake hose is potentially just sucking up oxygen out of a small space only to be burned in a sealed heat chamber. The heated air that enters the room is pulled in from the back of the unit and not the intake hose.

[@raymondj8768]

I JUST GOT ONE FOR MY VAN I CANT WAIT TO HOOK IT UP AFTER SEEING THIS GREAT VIDEO DUDE !

[@geenote]

Thanks! It will heat even better in your van. I had to mount outside my truck shell camper but it still works great. Check it out. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZOtk4lud9p0hdU

[@Mrcrowley1967]

I like this for a setup up I am thinking of same setup for my cabin/home in the north country of New Hampshire. Sounds like it would not be safe to leave this running though is there a reason for that? I have a two-section house main house is a 15x15 top floor and same size in basement the Phase two as we call it the larger area and is heated by wood mainly phase one is heater by the gas furnace forced hot water and electric baseboard back up I would like the backup heat to be one or two diesel heaters running on 12 volts probably two 12 volt 100 ah battery's so it power goes out there is heat. But it they are not safe to leave running that would shut that idea down .

[@geenote]

I think this is safe if properly installed. I leave mine running for hours and I have had no problems at all. I still do not leave the house with the heater running and I'm usually in the basement or close by while it is running just to be safe. I think it is a great back-up for heat if you lose power. Thanks!

[@terrafirma9328]

If your worried about safety then you are not ready for it. It's as safe as you educate yourself to handle it's operation. Be safe, not sorry.

[@khutimotorcat]

I have kind of same setup in my garage in northern Canada when its really cold I have fuel up every 24 hrs Just need some suggestions how to put bigger tank on it

[@geenote]

I have seen other videos of people installing larger tanks on the kits but not on the all-in-one units. That would be a good modification for someone to come up with.

[@ninorcsinned3465]

I have a wood pellet stove in my basement (Philadelphia suburbs). I use a bag a day to keep my basement warm. $5 a bag - 70yo block house with no insulation. If this works in northern canada for your garage then you are probbaly saving a ton of money compared to me.

[@khutimotorcat]

@@ninorcsinned3465 oh yeah And i m getting fuel for half price through the fleet rate (I m a trucker) It took 1 buck cost for 24 hrs if setting is on 16/17 celcius

[@khutimotorcat]

Here is the short video of it m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5jcmJqjg86eqpI

[@khutimotorcat]

Garage is insulated and there is a bonus room above it

[@phester28]

you should look at venting the exhaust if possible through your heatpump fins to aid the defrost / work it does.

[@geenote]

That is an interesting idea. My heat pump is right beside a basement window in my shop. Thanks for a great suggestion!

[@djenson]

@@geenote note that the condensate is corrosive and will degrade the fins on your heat pump with long term use.

[@geenote]

@@djenson Yes that makes sense, kind of like spraying cool water over the fins in the summer will do the same....

[@henryganzer4685]

hello how is your long time experience with this device? any problems or repairs until now? can you say samething about fuel consumtion?

[@geenote]

No problems with this cheap heater. It is very efficient on fuel. I only leave it running for a few hours at at time while I'm in the basement. Thanks!

[@gordonwilloughby8793]

Wondering if it would work even better if it was mounted on the floor with pipes running up to the window so the heat would come out nearer the floor since because heat rises.

[@geenote]

Not a bad idea. I would have to make sure there are no leaks. Also, there is a maximum length exhaust pipe recommended per the owner's manual to consider. I can't remember what the length is. Thanks!

[@boolookoo100]

nice video but a few mistakes 1 if power goes out it cant over heat because the fuel pump runs on power NO POWER NO FUEL 2 the exhaust is so hot that if the was condensation it just dry out on next start

[@geenote]

Without backup battery power, if the heater loses power it does not go through the cool down cycle and the _residual_ heat will destroy the circuit board next to the heat chamber. If my house electric power goes out, the power to the heater continues because it is being supplied from the UPS battery backup. It can then be shut down properly and go through the cool down cycle which takes care of the residual heat issue. I would agree that the condensation is not a big concern. Thanks!

[@Cementhead48]

Mine works great but I cannot access the settings on the controller. Any ideas? I set temp using 1.0. To 5.5 would rather setup using temp. Thanks, and great video. I too have my intake inside my basement. I have enough leaks toprovide air

[@geenote]

You have to push 2 buttons on the controller at the same time. I think it's one of the arrow buttons and the settings or OK button. Then it will let you choose between the 2 modes of operation. Check out this video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJW4k6ioaqmZpNU

[@Cementhead48]

@@geenote thanks for the reply. Mine must be faulty. It works fine though and I can change the Hz.

[@Cementhead48]

@@geenote thankyou

[@ericliume]

I think if you have a pipe extension to divert the hot air from the heater to the ground level, that will heat up the room more evenly. Otherwise, the hot air will flow mostly on the upper half of the basement.

[@geenote]

Yes, it probably would help. Sometimes I use an oscillating fan to help move the air around. Thanks! 👍

[@anythingadrenaline4515]

Can you post a link to the modification video?

[@geenote]

Here is the video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oXjdpGhjiJdrd80

[@69uremum]

A fine mesh on the intake will keep bugs from entering the air intake and possibly causing problems.

[@geenote]

Yes the one seen at the beginning and end of the video has a mesh screen inside the plastic intake filter.

[@magnuswallin6956]

Hello! How does it run now after a year?

[@geenote]

No problems at all !

[@thra5herxb12s]

Sucking in cold outside air takes more fuel to heat it up and gives out less heat from these inefficient heaters. You also seem to be heating the middle of the space and the ceiling.

[@geenote]

Most people don't realize the outside intake air is only used to feed inside the sealed combustion chamber for the fire. The heated air that enters the room enters through the back of the unit. It easily heats a small area like these are designed for. Sometimes I might turn on a small fan to help circulate the air. Works great for me.

[@StaleBearFarts]

Can you please send me the link to the one you purchased? Thanks! Subscribed and liked.

[@geenote]

The price has gone way up from the seller I purchased from. I would shop for the same item from a different seller on Amazon. Make sure it comes with all the accessories and the controller type you prefer. Mine has the blue controller. The 5kw and the 8kw version are the same. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WRZ9HV5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@SANDS78]

Very nice! I got one recently for camping with my van, at the moment I did the same as you and put it in my shop. I have the air intake inside though, thinking this would be more efficient, is that wrong?

[@geenote]

Thanks! The small 1 inch air intake hose is just to make fire inside the heat chamber. I don't think the temperature of this intake air would make a significant difference in efficiency. The air entering the back of the unit is what gets heated and would definitely effect the efficiency. I would be concerned about leaving the small intake hose inside a small sealed area (like my truck shell) and pulling the oxygen out. This video explains the air intake: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rXK0lpuEr9Z0jbs

[@wyattsdad8561]

I wonder if you could or should put the intake hose inside the basement? Then it’s not anywhere near the exhaust?

[@geenote]

The intake hose air is not for the heated room area - only the sealed combustion chamber to burn the fuel. Having the intake hose inside a small room would start using up oxygen in the room. The heated air used for the room is pulled in through the back of the unit. Thanks for asking!

[@wyattsdad8561]

@@geenote ohhhhh okay 👌 I understand now. Thank you

[@charleshille4876]

Dang man you should have left us a link to buy your heater

[@geenote]

The Amazon seller has raised the price $80 more than what I paid so I tell others there are better prices on the same unit from different sellers on Amazon. Just shop around a little for the same unit with all the accessories. Here is the link where I purchased: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WRZ9HV5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@missouritraveler6401]

Hope You're getting the storm damage cleaned up ok--been concerned about You! Maybe Your diesel heater and generator came in handy during Your power outages? Best Wishes for You and You're family.

[@geenote]

I have a bigger generator I kept running for a few days while the power was out which was nice. I have propane fire logs for back up heat at the house but the temperatures were mild while the power was out. I'm still waiting on a tree crew to take down a tree about to fall on my garage as well as trim a few others. I'm lucky I still have a house but we got things cleaned up and repaired for the most part. The next video I will post in a day or so shows many trees that had to be cleared blocking the trail we were on as a result of that storm. Thanks for checking in and I wish you and yours safe and happy holidays!

[@nancykennon310]

What do you think we used before the 60's and before. We schooled ourselves in the dangers. Being aware of your surroundings means everything in the room to use to your advantage. Be aware.

[@geenote]

👍

[@supersasquatch]

Why does the air intake have to come from outside?

[@geenote]

The outside air intake hose is just to feed the fire inside the heat chamber. This hose along with the exhaust connects to the heat chamber. Having it outside lowers noise level, doesn't deplete oxygen from a small sealed room, probably a safer set up, and follows the installation instructions. The heated air is pulled in from the back of the unit.

[@supersasquatch]

@@geenote makes sense, thanks for the response, and yes noise reduction is a worthy reason!

[@jj-eo7bj]

Having difficult starts on my heater ,how long should it pump before you ignite it also does red diesel cause difficult starts,lastly should you charge it while running ?

[@geenote]

Does it smoke really bad after it starts? Any error codes? Mine ignites after a few seconds of pumping. I don't think red diesel will harm as long as you have an in-line fuel filter that gets replaced from time to time. If you are using a battery to run the heater, it is good to keep it charged up when you can even while running.

[@jj-eo7bj]

@@geenote it was smoking excessively,would take 5 try’s then fire off -today just tried it let it pump maybe 5 seconds and it fired right off ...thinking I will add a thicker gauge wire directly to the battery,,,,I also had a battery charger set to 2 amps on startup ....mine is a 8 kw has a push button only no controller ,,,,throws out good heat still in the learning phase , might try kerosene been reading people use that also ,,,,real good luck today for some reason....maybe I let it pump too long

[@geenote]

@@jj-eo7bj The unit requires 10 amps so that might be your problem. You also need large enough wire to handle the amperage.

[@SetchiPaunda]

Did you notice any exhaust leak inside. I am not sure if I want to mount my diesel heater inside.

[@geenote]

Safety is a big concern with me as well. I have not had any leaks. For piece of mind, you could easily mount the heater outside as long as it is protected from rain and the elements. It won't be as efficient but it still works great as I have demonstrated in my other videos. Thanks.

[@lllm299news]

how long will it burn on low for a gallon of fuel?

[@geenote]

Around 24 hrs on lowest setting.

[@bryanjones14]

Should the exhaust and intake be that close ?

[@bryanjones14]

Nevermind ... Intake is for combustion only sorry

[@geenote]

That's right! 👍

[@jm4672]

I have a question maybe you can help me out with I smell diesel fuel burning when the unit is on real low or just starting up and then it goes away

[@geenote]

Make sure the exhaust is not being pulled into the back of the heater where the air enters to be heated. When mine first starts, there is a strong exhaust odor for a minute but it is all outside. Also confirm you have good voltage (12+ vdc) and at least 10 amps available during start up. Make sure you have heavy enough gauge wire too. Good luck.

[@terrellstewart4071]

Can u set those for 60 and it will maintain 60 degrees

[@geenote]

Good question. There are 2 modes. In Manual mode, you adjust the HZ setting which is how fast the fuel pump is cycling which keeps the unit continually running....or you can set the temperature (in Celsius) to maintain the temperature set point which cycles the heater on and off as needed using the built in temp sensor in the controller. So you would just have to convert from C to F if you use the automatic temperature mode. I'm not sure how close it will keep at the set temperature...it might vary a few degrees. I always use manual mode and adjust the HZ up and down as needed which changes the fuel rate and the fan speed. Hope this helps.

[@rupertdanbury7020]

Hi , I've watched both videos regarding this heater . I'm going to install a diesel heater in my motorhome . The deciding factor is pump noise . With the kit heater , separate units, the pump is quite noisy . How noisy is this free standing heater ? Hope this makes sense . Thanks 👍

[@geenote]

It's hard to get away from that clicking rhythm. I have that unit outside my truck shell and it is still clearly heard. If you are in a motor home, I would think getting the kit and mounting the pump under the camper with a rubber insulator would be the way to go. Thanks for watching!

[@rupertdanbury7020]

@@geenote many thanks Keith . I'll let you know how I get on

[@hueypilot1950]

looks good. Where is the thermostat? How noisy is it? I have heard that you need to run them on high regularly for some reason, have you heard this?

[@geenote]

The thermostat is built into the controller on the front. I could use the automatic/temperature setting mode and the heater will cycle on and off trying to maintain the set point just like the furnace in my house. This may not work good for my application because the heater is sitting in a little "cubby" hole next to a cold window plus I have heard the temperature fluctuates more than a few degrees when using this method. I find that running it constant on a manual type setting using the fuel pump pulse rate works good for me. It is not noisy although the clicking sound of the fuel pump may be a little distracting for some. The cool down cycle might burn off build up but I have heard it is good to run them on high for a little while every so often. Thanks for watching.

[@mikespice8907]

i got a 12v 10amp powersupply and do you think 14 awg cables would be good to connect the heater to the power supply?

[@geenote]

Yes, 14 awg wire is good for that. The heater will be pushing the 10 amp power supply when the glow plug is on. That's why I went with a little bit bigger power supply rated at 200 watts which is closer to 15 amps of available power. I didn't want to push the power supply hard and take a chance on it going into overload and losing power. If you lose power to the heater while it is in use, there is a chance of heat damage to the unit. It has to go through a cool down stage when it is turned off to prevent heat damage. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@craigb1554]

What is the insulating material that you are using in place of the glass?

[@geenote]

That insulation has been laying around our shop at work for years. It is in a 2' by 3' sheet 1" thick and used to insulate the walls of things like ovens and furnaces. I'm not sure what the material is but It doesn't make me itch when I handle it. It came from a company in Winston Salem, NC called Thermcraft that makes industrial furnaces and ovens.

[@stalbertjocelyn]

Is your blower air inlet restricted sitting that close to the window frame? If you run your heater on low setting for any amount of time you need to run it on high to burn the suit. It will clog up in no time, run it on high for 10 min before shutdowns.

[@geenote]

I was a little concerned about that too but I don't think it restricts the air any. Others have recommended running on high for a while so I have been doing that to clean off the build up. Thanks for the suggestion!

[@thomasbarlow4223]

I've always wanted to take the exhaust and run it through a big long pipe that runs all the way around the shop before exiting outside therefore I could collect some of the heat wasted through the exhaust. Those diesel heaters put just as much heat outside as they do inside.

[@geenote]

Major heat coming out the exhaust!

[@jeffclark5024]

I have one of these heaters and I think there is a maximum for the exhaust length. You’re right though, it would be nice to get more heat out of the exhaust. I think a diesel EGR cooler could work. Pump water to cast iron radiator, in floor heat, or some other type of thermal mass

[@geenote]

@@jeffclark5024 That would work. I remember a picture in the manual showing maybe a few feet max length max on exhaust.

[@sAINT898]

About how much fuel do you burn in like a day?

[@geenote]

These heaters claim to use 0.1 liters per hour on low. I have not monitored total fuel use but they are very efficient.

[@seymourwrasse3321]

how much fuel does it use to heat your space?

[@geenote]

The heater sips fuel. A tank last 24 hours or so on lowest setting.

[@seymourwrasse3321]

@@geenote that sounds great, but with diesel at $6 a gallon, off road for a few cents less, it's hard to say what type off heat won't empty our wallet

[@geenote]

@@seymourwrasse3321 ain't that the truth!

[@mrhalfstep]

Does the fresh air intake on these heaters just go into the combustion chamber and then out the exhaust? Would there be any advantage to using the warm air from your basement to supply fresh air? In an auto A/C system, the A/C setting is usually drawing outside air through the cooling coil of the car, but the MAX A/C setting takes the already cool air in the car and recirculates it through the coil so it gets even colder. Does this work that way? If the fresh intake provides the air to the blower and the combustion chamber, it seems that you could recover some wasted heat by putting the fresh air supply in the house. Does that make sense?

[@geenote]

The fresh air intake is only to a sealed chamber to basically make fire. The heated air that enters the room comes in through the back panel and blows out the front. I'm not so sure that warmer fresh air to the heat chamber makes a hotter fire - I think more fuel makes a hotter fire. Having the unit inside the window instead of outside takes the already heated room air and continues to heat it up even more as it flows across the outside of the hot chamber. If the unit were outside the window, the outside air stays whatever the current outside temperature is. The warmer the air is that enters the back of the unit (not the fresh air intake hose), the warmer the air is coming out the front. Hope that makes sense.

[@mrhalfstep]

@@geenote Keith, after I watched this video I ran across the video where you were using this to heat your truck topper. In that video I saw the intake for the heated air and now I understand how this thing works. Sitting in your basement window sill, the intake WAS inside the house recirculating the already warmed air. Thank you so much for responding to my question so soon. Not everyone on YT does that, so it makes you special in this world of info-sharing. I have actually seen a number of your videos, now, on this heater, and have learned something on each of them, so good work. Stay safe.

[@geenote]

@@mrhalfstep Thank you!

[@terrafirma9328]

More OXYGEN makes a hotter fire, ask any blacksmith. Cold air has more oxygen than warm per cubic foot

[@byronmorris1594]

That will be a go ideal for when you have a power outage.

[@geenote]

I totally agree ! Thanks for watching.

[@oopsieeee]

Do you have a link to this heater?

[@geenote]

The price on Amazon was $111 when I purchased it in August. Now it is $190. Ebay has them for around $120. Here is the Amazon link. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WRZ9HV5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@loganlanfier6339]

Thinking about converting my camper furnace to 1 or 2 of these units.

[@geenote]

Popular add on these days.

[@theautodidacticman_]

You won’t regret converting it.

[@TMTech]

Does it turn off if it reach the Target Temperatur? And Start Again if its Below? Or did it run all the Time? Thanks dude :)

[@geenote]

Unfortunately it does not turn on and off. It runs all the time. It only switches to the lowest setting once it reaches the set point and will switch to a higher setting if the temperature falls below the set point.

[@ChuckisOutside]

How much fuel does it use?

[@geenote]

Around a tank every 24 hours (maybe a little less) on lowest setting.

[@bobbyvee8941]

Damn I miss North Carolina (Greensboro). Been in central Georgia for 5 years...and it SUCKS!!

[@geenote]

LOL ! Way north Georgia would be good for me. Come on back - we got room!

[@yc17134]

how many hours does it work on a 100 amp hour battery >? i wanna buy it but dont know what amp hour battery i would need

[@geenote]

I would stick with a 100 amp hour battery unless you have it connected to a battery charger. Check out this video to give you an idea of how long it will run using a 100 ah battery non stop kzbin.info/www/bejne/nWnOooWmabmffqc

[@esasaarinen2423]

you can get like 800w more power if you use the exhaust heat. that will increase the efficiency about 15% .

[@geenote]

Not sure how I would do that....

[@thegrudge6495]

I think this person is trying to one-up you on the Doomsday Machine

[@geenote]

@@thegrudge6495 I think you're right ! Dang it..I will have to try harder! LOL !

[@terrafirma9328]

There are several ways, a longer exhaust pipe that runs inside the house except for the external exit. The longer the pipe the more heat radiates from the long pipe. Secondly, a double pipe packed with a layer of sand between pipes to store the extra heat for a slower release like soapstone.