Honda Odyssey How To Replace Timing Belt Water Pump

[@xiangchen4893]

This is the best and most detail-orientated video for changing a timing belt for the Honda Odyssey (Gen 4). Thank you for taking the time to make the video.

[@acetechauto7]

No problem thank you for watching!

[@bumbaiul3arn370]

I wish I had power and air tools. Took me 4hrs with hand tools. Thanks for the great detailed video!🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽

[@acetechauto7]

No problem! Good work most people can’t do it in 4 hours with air tools

[@11lhlewis80]

start to finish in a clear, well paced manner. Need more car vids to be like this

[@acetechauto7]

Thank you for watching hopefully it can help you out!

[@jerrellstrawn6409]

A PITA I'm sure to film this, but I sure do appreciate it.

[@erwindeleon618]

the best video. last time i did one was for an 07 odyssey so it's been awhile-learned some shortcuts, like keeping the "grenade tensioner" bolted on top but not at the bottom to give the left tensioner some play, loosening the tension wheel on the right to comfortably get the timing belt in - it's beveled/flanged so when the belt was right on, i just tightened the tensioner. then bolted the bottom of the grenade tensioner - check the timing belt positions on the crank and camshafts, then pull the grenade! bam. spun around and still ended in the same place - now i'm ready to assemble back. I also took the headlight out to use a torque gun to unscrew the big bolt for the engine support . thanks!!!

[@acetechauto7]

No problem thank you for watching and good luck with the job! It’s not too bad of a job it just takes patience

[@richardgomez1590]

I have to say thank you Ace Tech Auto for this video. Made it look pretty easy but wow it was challenging. When I got to the step of removing the pin from the tensioner I did not have enough slack in the belt and it moved the rear cam off the timing mark. I freaked but thought it just moved back a bit so I can just take the tensioner off and reset the tensioner. Took the belt off. moved the rear cam slightly forward to align the marks and started over. I eventually got it right as the timing marks were lined up with tensioner pin pulled. Timing marks were where they were with the old belt. Put it all back together and now i’m not sure if i’m paranoid but it seems like there is a slight vibration only at idle. Any insight you might have would be much appreciated.

[@acetechauto7]

Congratulations on the job! It’s not too bad you just need patience. If your timing belt was off you would get a check engine light pop up for incorrect cam and crank correlation so if that’s not the case then most likely it’s just in the head and I wouldn’t worry about it.

[@versitell848]

Hello, awesome video. Great work. I noticed that the 3rd gen Odysseys look somewhat similar under the hood. I’m going to tackle this job today and wondered if any major differences I should be aware of. Thank you for your time. 👍🏼🤙🏼

[@acetechauto7]

Hi that one is pretty much the same there’s not much difference between them. It’s a fun project for a weekend just follow the video of you need help and you shouldn’t have a problem. Good luck!

[@kevinsunderland5172]

This is a great video I have a 2008 Honda Odyssey that I want to do the timing belt on. I also need to replace the valve seals I was hoping to try to do it without taking the heads off do you have any videos on anything like that?

[@acetechauto7]

Most likely you have an issue with your piston rings not your valve stems if it’s burning oil. If your odyssey has VCM where it shuts down 3 cylinders when coasting, first look up VCM muzzler and get that disabled, change the spark plugs and that normally takes care of the oil burning. Otherwise I would pull the heads off when you have the timing belt off, send it to a machine shop, and replace the piston rings. Good luck!

[@kevinsunderland5172]

@@acetechauto7 okay thank you I do actually have a VCM disabler but maybe I'll try to reinstall that and change the spark plug from see what happens I have read that the VCM does cause it to burn more oil so I'll do a little more research thank you

[@acetechauto7]

@kevinsunderland5172 I have done plenty of vcm disabling on these and the Honda pilots and still to this day I haven’t had any more issues with them so yeah definitely double check that before you dig too deep into the engine work.

[@joellasseigne4652]

This is fantastic! Thank you!

[@acetechauto7]

No problem thank you for watching!

[@multiDomains]

Thank you. Replaced mine over the weekend. I don't think I could do it without your video. I was told the tensioner was leaking oil during an inspection at the dealership. Do you know how they found it without taking the timing belt cover off?

[@acetechauto7]

That’s great I’m glad you were able to get it done! The back side of the tensioner sticks out outside the timing cover so if it was leaking a lot you would be able to see it there without having to take the cover off.

[@multiDomains]

@@acetechauto7 Thanks. I didn't see any oil outside of the timing belt cover area and that made me curious. Maybe I wasn't be careful enough. Wish the cover was made with clear material and people can identify the problem easier.

[@cm1133]

@@multiDomainsmy tensioner was leaking its hydraulic fluid and dripping down into the front right CV axel boot. I first noticed it when changing my oil but mistakenly thought it was just remnants of engine oil from where oil gets all over the lower control arm when you remove the oil filter. The dealer noticed the tensioner leaking when they were doing recall work on the auto start/stop system.

[@marcu46]

Great instructional video. I have 2 questions. The engine does not need to be supported by anything, it hangs on the engine mounts?? Do you turn the crankshaft before starting the engine??

[@acetechauto7]

Hi thank you for watching. No the engine doesn’t need to be supported as it is held in place by the other engine mounts. The crankshaft you can turn after you take the timing covers off so you can see where to set the marks on the crankshaft and the camshaft sprockets.

[@marcu46]

Thank you for your quick reply. Best regards

[@acetechauto7]

@marcu46 no problem best of luck to you!

[@blakebauer2722]

Thank you for this video, very well done. A couple of incorrect socket sizes but not a big deal by any means. I finished up doing this job, wasn't terrible but I have a question. I believe I may of accidentally read the wrong specs and overtorqued the hydraulic tensioner bolts. I think I had tried going to 19ftlbs and probably got to maybe 13 to 15ftlbs and stopped because it just didn't feel like it would tighten more without problems. The van runs well, but I don't have peace of mind on the bolts. Would I be able to easily replace the tensioner bolts without removing everything again?

[@acetechauto7]

If you are talking about the tensioner itself then yes those are accessible. If you’re talking about the tensioner pulley then for that you have to take the timing cover back out.

[@blakebauer2722]

@@acetechauto7 yes the tensioner itself.. I believe I was accidentally going by the tensioner pulley for torque initially (19ftlbs instead of 8.7ftlbs). I remember backing off the torque wrench and getting probably between 10 and 15ftlbs and stopping because it felt tight but didn't think it was going to go tighter without issues. This didn't dawn on me until I got it all back together. I thought I was very carful to follow the torque specs, but I'm showing my human error here. Should I try to back one off slightly and retorque one at a time? Or will the pressure from the tensioner throw off my proper torque value? Or maybe what my bolts are at will be perfectly fine, I'm not sure. I just don't want issues down the road and don't want to open up a can of worms either. Thank you for your video and your response. Your video helped me out greatly.

[@acetechauto7]

@blakebauer2722 no problem I’m glad it was able to help you complete the job. If you wanted to take them out and re torque them you can do one bolt at a time but you should be fine leaving it the way it is also.

[@multiDomains]

Great video! I do have a question. Do you need to replace any of those pulley bolts? If yes, which ones are needed?

[@acetechauto7]

No none of the bolts are necessary to replace.

[@matthewpyle3477]

You said that supporting the engine was necessary after removing the mount. However if I wanted to be extra safe and support it anyways, how would i do that?

[@acetechauto7]

To support the engine you can use a Jack under the oil pan with a piece of 2x4 in between the Jack and the pan to prevent causing any damage.

[@hi-vz5dv]

I am in the middle Unable to crank shaft bolt I tried Milwaukee high torque M18 Do I need to heat the bolr

[@acetechauto7]

No don’t heat the bolt you would just need to use the special tool to hold the bolt and loosen it up by hand. Sometimes these bolts are in there real tight.

[@jordandotson7927]

Hi, I tried to comment on your response. I did transfer the sleeve. I wonder if I damaged something behind the pulley because I initially overtightened it to 33 ft-lbs when it actually called for 19. I did back it off but damage may have been done

[@acetechauto7]

What brand are you using for the parts? I would probably try replacing that again just to make sure before putting it all back together

[@jordandotson7927]

I used Gates water pump, belt, tensioner, and pulleys. Do you think replacing all of just the tensioner and the tensioner pulley? Thanks!

[@acetechauto7]

@jordandotson7927 if it’s lined up with the idler pulley and just off on the tensioner pulley then I would just replace the tensioner pulley assembly and that should solve your problem

[@jordandotson7927]

Hi, I got everything back on just like your video. I also rotated, clockwise, the whole thing to double check the timing marks. All good. However, I am running into an issue where the belt travels, about a 1/16 off of tbe outside edge of the tensioner pulley. Any thoughts? Is that normal. I slid it back into place and did it again and it traveled again to the same thickness off the pulley face. I then turned it again several more times. Timing still lines up but the belt still travels off the pulley the same amount and stays in position. Thoughts?

[@jordandotson7927]

To be clear, it doesn’t continue to travel. Once it’s about 1/16th off the pulley face, it travels in place.

[@acetechauto7]

Did you transfer over the sleeve from the old tensioner pulley to the new one?

[@jerrellstrawn6409]

How did you do the final alignment tweaking of the two cam pulleys before removing the tensioner?

[@acetechauto7]

You set the timing at TDC and then you remove the tensioner. Just follow the video on how to do it.

[@multiDomains]

@@acetechauto7 Hi Acetchauto. I think jerrell meant your comment on 40:06. I have the same question. How did you slightly align the upper cram that was misaligned due to stretch of the belt? Did you rotate the upper cam clockwise/counterclockwise or you had to rotate the bottom crank again?

[@acetechauto7]

@multiDomains if it’s slightly off, as long as your crankshaft sprocket is at tdc mark, slightly rotate the camshaft sprocket with a wrench to the marked line in the direction that’s closest to the markings.

[@NganNguyen-m4u3q]

This part 40:06 was one of the most important part and you fast forward it without showing us? How did you move the front and back camshaft TDC since you mentioned it was slight off but the bottom crankshaft was TDC? If you move the cam wouldn’t the crank move as well. This part is confusing to us. Thanks for the video.

[@acetechauto7]

@NganNguyen-m4u3q It was just a hair off so I just rotated the crank sprocket a little until the cam sprockets were perfectly aligned. If you look closely at the video when showing the aligning of the crank sprocket, you can see it’s a hair off. It can be a little tricky depending on the angle you see it at.

[@bpetnoi1472]

You do realize there is no reason to take all the time to rotate the crank to bring marks on either the crank, or two cam sprokets to any given position. Just make some marks any where you want on the crank gear and two cam gears and then make marks on the block to align with the crank and cam gear marks. AS LONG AS YOU DO NOT MOVE either the crank or cam gears just remove the belt and reinstall a new one. On the chance that either of the cam gears do move when you remove the timing belt then you will need to align both the crank gear and cam gears to the proper marks which can be done with the belt off then install the new belt.

[@acetechauto7]

Yeah because it takes alot of time to put it at TDC. If anything moves you know you’re suppose to bring it back at TDC and you don’t have to mark anything on the belt when you’re at TDC. It took you more time for you to post on here complaining about it than actually doing it the right way.

[@davida4886]

Hmm, no torque wrench?

[@acetechauto7]

When you do enough of these you get a feel of how tight is tight without a torque wrench. For those who would like to torque them down with a torque wrench I have listed all the torque specs in the description.

[@dennisgonya9799]

What the hell with these interference engings are just forcing people to spent money I, still like my old Chevy.

[@acetechauto7]

Old Chevy yes. Chevy 2010 and up you woulda wished you had one of these because they cant seem to make an engine that doesn’t burn oil or needs a timing chain.

[@johnbaltruczak]

way to many political ads

[@acetechauto7]

It’s that time of the year