Honda Odyssey serpentine belt removal

[@greendiceproductions2602]

This video was very helpful. Unlike every other one I’ve tried. Thanks for actually pointing out specific bolts

[@timvu3095]

I'd completely agree it is way easier to remove the belt tension from the top. I tried to do from the bottom fake nut but there is little leverage unless you have the car of a lift. After about 1 hr. without success just to get it off, I went for the top nut with my 25" breaker bar. Works like a charm! It only take me 10 min to get the belt off and get it on. You still need to remove part of the lower left wheel well lining (only 4 clips) to route the new belt on from the bottom to the crank shaft pulley and other pulleys as you cannot reach them from the top and put the finishing touch on top over the power steering pump pulley. I hang the new belt from the top and route it from the bottom. Lesson learned.

[@amerigo88]

Tips: 1) There are two different 19mm bolt heads mounted to the serpentine belt tensioner plate, one high and one low. I stripped the lower one that is used in this video, but found the upper one much easier to push towards the vehicle's rear as it has more leverage against the hydraulic serpentine belt tensioner mounted low on the passenger side of the engine. The easier bolt is higher up, closer to the front of the vehicle, and easier to reach from above. I used a 19mm, 3/8 inch drive, splined socket connected to the long serpentine belt bar tool, also 3/8 inch drive, both from Harbor Freight. YOU MUST PUSH VERY SLOWLY AND STEADILY to overcome the hydraulic tensioner without stripping a bolt head. The thin serpentine belt bar tool is very helpful in this really confined workspace. I strongly recommend against using a crowbar or prybar against the crankshaft pulley/oscillation damper as it can generate a really large expense. 2) Good idea to tie your vehicle's hood to garage roof overhead as the hood support rod gets very much in the way. I discovered a second hole in the hood that fits perfectly and allowed me to raise my 2007 Odyssey hood much, much higher than the usual amount. 3) You can move the power steering fluid reservoir and some lines out of the way of the arc for the serpentine belt tool above the engine. It eases the crowding. I bought this van 20 months ago and it now has 151,000 miles. Honda of America refused to help with either this power steering pump leakage problem or the dark blue paint (Touring edition) that is peeling off in golf ball sized chunks. Next comes a partial change of the automatic transmission fluid that is long overdue. Flushing that system would likely destroy the entire transmission. Have had to fix the A/C twice now, busted evaporator from road debris and then the driver's side air mixing actuator motor this year. (Did not require opening the dash, thank God.) I will not buy or recommend another Odyssey. Only the Toyota Sienna seems reliable enough for me, among the minivans.

[@_Ramen-Vac_]

Honda engineers for assembly ease/compact fit of very complex systems which can be very tricky to repair. I have a 2004 Odyssey with crumbling belts, and am trying to figure where to crank on the pulley plate at-all. might it be likely to need to loosen another mounting nut or even two to get any action out of this tension shock?

[@sisco3404]

Hello. I know its been a while since you posted. What year was your vehicle. I have a 2000 and there is no way to fit a 19 mm socket between the tension pulley and the frame. You need to use a very slim tensioner tool.. just interested to see if you had another way...Thank You.

[@FallenAEbay]

Thank you, Christ all I wanted was the socket size!

[@porvida1sssj434]

This is the same for my 2009 Honda Accord and I appreciate the tip cause I’ve stripped the upper bolt on three different tensioners trying to get the belt on and off so this will definitely keep me from making the same mistake. Thank you.

[@ByWayOfCt]

Thank you MadMehrt. Fat old lady here.. can't afford the garages.. bought a new belt... old one is worn but does not appear to have THAT much damage... smh... I am trying to get anyone to do this for me but no one wants to.. I offered 100.00 to do it.. but no takers... must do it myself. So must take my fat ass and do it myself LOL appreciate the instruction and very good info. :) I am inspired...

[@madmehrt7980]

It's a really easy job to do, sorry that no one will help, if you were close by I would do it for free!!

[@GreaterAntilles-wn2ts]

Honda needs a kick in the ass for the sliding doors on those odyssey's!

[@defnotcam9166]

This was helpful thank you. Im working on an older model and there's even less room to work with. Also kept it short and to the point rather than rambling on.

[@smallgreentreefrog]

Guys he’s right for his vehicle. For his engine. On the left side of the engine there’s a sticker. If you have the j35a5 engine it’s better to relieve the tension from the top going down, thereby pushing the breaker bar or serpentine belt tool toward the windshield. If you have the j35a7 engine this tension mechanism is different and is easier accessed from the wheel well area. Then you’d be pulling the breaker bar or serpentine belt tool toward the front bumper to relieve the tension.

[@erniepatai6644]

you cant access the tensioner bolt on the A7 motor as a breaker bar and socket too large to fit so unless you have a flat bar with socket which is designed for top application can only go from underneath.

[@davidnjennieprice]

Why does no one ever mention that Hondas are full of even more surprises with this tensioner (like sheared fastener)? Apparently, before applying final compression to put the belt back on, you MUST cycle the full compression range of the hydraulic tensioner over at least 3 seconds per cycle to "supposedly bleed" the tensioner before applying the "final" tension to the replaced belt. If you do not follow this procedure, apparently this hydraulic tensioner can build enough tension to shear off the bolt holding the tensioner on the block. The forums are full of owners talking about this and it happened to us the day we bought the car (used) literally as we were attempting to drive away. The seller had had a friend change the timing belt so the setup had as little as 5 miles on it before it broke. Luckily the seller had it redone so we could drive away.

[@AJ259000]

Thanks for the detail explanation. I was able to replaced mines from the top, without taking out the wheel.

[@Erich1]

Me too. I removed and reinstalled the belt from the top. Got the car with both 19mm bolts rounded off had to use a slim crow bar between idler pulley and top rounded 19mm to reduce tension to reinstall belt

[@genk7229]

Yes you are Superman! Thank you for everything!.

[@jimcarella]

Good video with a very quick description of what to do. Thanks! Also, when you mentioned the oil leak issue that was an eye-opener. I seem to be having alot of oil leakage on my '03 and was wondering if it was the oil pan seal.

[@yutao1982]

great video w/ clear instructions! I like this guy's voice!

[@mattk311]

Nice video. Good advice. That crank shaft pulley is a beast to change.

[@YOUDIRTYlilLIaR]

I had the crankshaft pulley come apart one time while driving down the road in our 2007 Oddysey. it literally flew out the bottom of the vehicle and went rolling down the street. luckily I was less than a block away from home and just pushed it back home. Never seen a vehicle do that before lol.

[@timvu3095]

Apparently, Honda used this type of crank pulley on the Odyssey where they sandwich a later of rubber between the main pulley and the V groove outer ring. I saw a guy's wife Odyssey make grinding noise as the engine runs. He took out the tension pulley and the upper pulley was loose. He got a new belt tensioner assembly but when he checked the crank pulley, the rubber had cracked and nearly separated. He had to get the new crank pulley before he could put everything back together. The crank pulley alone costs $120 from the part store, Honda OEM version is nearly $200. So it the engine make grinding or abnormal noise when it runs, something is about to fall apart, check it before making the next trip.

[@patchreefs]

Mehrt I put the socket on the top fixed nut and twisted the 1/4 inch drive . I just bought it so its going back. I will try the bottom fixed nut like you suggested with 3/8 drive this time Thanks george

[@madmehrt7980]

patchreefs it can be done from top but you have limited movement for the breaker bar to relieve enough tension to slip belt off. I always found it easier to do from below.

[@patchreefs]

Mehrt, I finally got the belt on. I did it from the top. I tried the bottom but I did not have enough room to swing the pipe and ratchet.I thought I was going to break the fixed nut off. I was surprised how much pressure I had to put on the ratchet and pipe. Thanks for helping me. I also ask God to help me. That's how ridiculous this job was. The 19 mm socket is still on the fixed nut. I used a six sided socket because the with more points on it slipped. Again I thank you very much. George.

[@offhandacoustic]

@@patchreefs Man Im telling you this is the most pain in the ass alternator change I have ever done in my life. Top bolt stripped using a 12 point, cant get enough leverage from under even jacked way up. About to loose my cool.

[@RaviPatel0223]

will loosening that bolt on top of the shock also allow the serpentine belt to be able to slip off the alternator? im trying to replace my alternator but i cant find where to loosen the tension

[@ramiromendoza8468]

do i like you..you explain perfect...and good tips..on how to check on pulleys..thanks.

[@rubinsalas2817]

Thanks buddy the vid was helpful

[@HeartlessHopelessRecords]

Fuck man finally someone getting to the point

[@DanielGrovePhoto]

What year is this? I've watched 2 videos already where the wheel and guard was not removed but it was all done from the top.

[@deseremere]

"Every time you work on Hondas it surprises you" - man, I feel you. Designed by Asian midgets who are also gymnasts

[@JSmith91]

What size nut is on the tensioner?

[@Iloveyhwh_1974]

I did an alternator on an 08 & did not need to remove tire & splash shield. It was an all day, pain in the ass event, but it got done. Lol. For what it’s worth.

[@offhandacoustic]

Im doing the alternator on my 08 now and I cant even get the damn belt off. Stripped the top bolt and can get enough leverage from the bottom even jacked up as high as I can. Never in my life worked on something so frustrating and overly complicated. Last honda I ever own.

[@jmh6835]

Don’t use the bottom tensioner bolt. There are two bolts on the tensioner arm. Use the top one from the top of the motor with a breaker bar. I almost completely stripped my bottom one after watching this video tonight. When I watched another that did the top bolt, I saw that they got more travel on the tensioner. I tried it and it worked a lot better.

[@angusmacnuggets2164]

mine snapped the top tension bolt in half - bad design. Bottom will work in lieu of that problem now. New tension assembly was $165 to replace, torque main bolt to 65 ft lbs or it will snap the main center tensioner bolt while you drive.

[@saadventures9291]

Broke mine off...

[@ollopa1]

This hydraulic tensioner has a head on the top and another on the bottom. You use the top head from the top and the bottom from the top. It takes slow and steady pressure to push in the hydraulic piston. Try to move it too fast and it will break. Use the wrong bolt head and it will be ineffective.

[@wsu610]

You're right that's what i did too.

[@Nate-wp9sn]

It works fine from the top. Long bar and steady pressure

[@madmehrt7980]

Nathan Wood true it can be done from top but it is a bitch. I have actually pried pretty hard on top and have broken the tensioner, so I do them from bottom, which also gives me the opportunity to check all the pulleys.

[@Nick_Greenfield]

I'm sitting here watching your video because I just now broke my tensioner pulley with a breaker bar trying from the top.

[@javiermedina5747]

Lol I broke 2 tensioners from top I'll go bottom when the snow stops smh

[@Evrenthewrencher]

Oddysey sucks

[@atola5349]

Nick Greenfield how did you get it done? From the bottom? I sheared off the top dummy nut lastnight!

[@shawnferguson9057]

Try putting a breaker bar and 3/4 inch socket on the nut you can see from the top from under the hood like I did. I didn't remove anything at all and it took me less than 60 seconds to pop the belt off.

[@buickdude69]

You should be replacing the timing belt, water pump and t-belt tensioner as well, and do them all at once.

[@arthurfricchione8119]

Thanks good video. Tried from top no go. Will do from bottom

[@won2beme]

is this the same as the drive belt

[@madmehrt7980]

Robert T yes this is to remove the drive belt. not the timing belt

[@won2beme]

Mad Mehrt thanks appreciate the video

[@ganeshnarayan5505]

good video lot of good info.thank you

[@jerryjackson1812]

Change mine from the top. It was easy.😁

[@waydmah9561]

I did my from the top in 5 minutes with out talking !

[@wsu610]

Did mine too today from top.and relieve tension from top bolt not the one under the pulley.

[@erniepatai6644]

might want to have actually done the job to show how you managed to get the belt on while removing the tension on the pulley.

[@winstonsmart69]

Excellent Video

[@madmehrt7980]

Winston Smart they do come apart because of the molded rubber in between the outer and inner part of pulley, that's why it important to put your hands and eyes on all the pulleys when down there

[@rickp.2770]

You didn't show how to do it you just talking

[@cookiegamer2258]

Cool vids bruh

[@_Ramen-Vac_]

sooo, you just cut the belts off? lol *lame video* about as useful as the Haynes book on this, man.