TECHNIQUE vs STRENGTH: Which one wins? | Anatomy of the Climb

[@GeekClimber]

Absolutely interested in the deadlift video!

[@HoopersBeta]

Sounds like it's time to make it happen! :)

[@KingColliwog]

Those climb analysis are so freaking awesome. I hope you do more of them!

[@kevinwong5053]

I'd love to see a video about deadlifts. Nice video

[@HoopersBeta]

Okay be honest, whose drawings were better? 🙏😂

[@shrodeseva]

Ok, when’s the full video of face technique coming? I need to know what muscles I’m working when in utter anguish

[@HoopersBeta]

😅😅

[@christianstrock8426]

Just found this channel! As a physical therapy student and a climber, I'm in love with these more technical breakdowns. There's not enough climbing related content in the PT field so I can't wait to check out the rest of your videos!

[@AG-qv2tk]

i would love to see a kilterboard analysis! (maybe around 7a or so, so that many people can compare their technique)

[@justinmeyerr]

As someone who nerds out on micro-beta, physics and geometry of climbing, I loved this video. Bottom line: technique usually lets you put more power (weight) into a foot, and get your hips in. More like this!!!! Love the channel and love seeing you have fun making the vids. Keep it up🤓

[@parkerisyoung]

I remember coaching Aiden when his screams were at a much higher pitch. Happy to see he is hanging with a good group of guys and keeping the strength!

[@aidengloyd8282]

I rememebr that too! :) ah the good ol' days.

[@marcosbodi8128]

I'm in love with this format analysing and comparing strength VS technique! Such interesting!

[@xskhoo91]

Such an underrated channel, you definitely deserve so much more views and subscribers! Thanks for the quality and informative content, keep them coming!

[@SethSchneiderw]

This climbing analysis from both a technique and physiological perspective is so awesome! Please do lots of these!

[@micha8615]

Interesting point at 6:18 . Can anything else cause shoulder pain in such reachy moves? I almost cured my right shoulder pain entirely but still feel pain on big moves with arm straight (~180 degrees in elbow) and can't figure out what am I missing (left shoulder is fine).

[@HoopersBeta]

Yeah definitely, good posterior mobility of the shoulder can affect it, strength of the external rotators in overhead positions can affect it, and even proper scapular awareness when doing such reachy moves can be a factor. Do you train at all in that range? Do you feel like you have equal strength left and right, or is there some weakness in the painful shoulder at end ranges just with training? Just some good questions to ask yourself. The shoulders are amazing... but also a lot of work! In fact, there are 17 muscles that attach just to the shoulder blade (scapula). Crazy.

[@tristanmayfield4851]

I was gonna start a channel doing analysis like these, but decided I hate the sound of my voice too much. I'm glad someone is (and killing it btw)!

[@exman85]

I do like these kinds of videos a lot, but this one felt a bit too slow in places. I know how hard it is to find the balance... Perhaps what would also help is a quick summary at the end, as by the time I got to the end, I did not remember a thing. I am loving your channel, spreading positive vibes everywhere I can so take it as something that might help to attract more likes and subscribers (this is what other channels seem to be doing)

[@HoopersBeta]

Great comment, thank you for the constructive feedback! We also felt it was a little slower than the last one so this helps to confirm those thoughts! We have talked about some ways to make it a bit faster in future vids. I love the idea of having a summary at the end as well. Thank you! (also, thanks for the support and sharing the channel!)

[@keegswong]

This is one of the best analysis videos ever! Please do more of these!!!! :)

[@tylervelasquez5639]

Love the break down! Dont see enough, if any, of these!

[@wlr215]

This is awesome! Definitely the most advanced and detailed beta analysis I saw on youtube!

[@catherinehughes2683]

Really like these Anatomy of the Climb vids. Keep em coming

[@HoopersBeta]

Definitely! Been a while, we need to do another.

[@acsherman]

This is so invaluable, keep it up. You’re helping so many with technique.

[@vincentton4449]

teach me to deadlift properly! Sumo vs traditional vs RDL please and thank you

[@HoopersBeta]

Let's do it! Honestly, I have wanted to do a dead lift video for so long (for real, like it was in the plans right before COVID started), but the expert I had lined up became unavailable with COVID and then gym equipment became sparse. So, ASAP! I like the idea of doing it Sumo vs Traditional vs RDL as well.

[@Nykinkanava]

@@HoopersBeta I also want info on single leg RDL!

[@toddhelgeson4301]

In the future can you also compare arm length and height? It really looks like some of the differences between the two climbers are in arm lengths. All of the moves change based on that perspective...

[@mayonnai5e]

these anatomy episodes are incredibly interesting and helpful. keep it up please please please!

[@nooormann]

insane, I wish we have more griffin whitetaker video

[@DrStephan]

Awesome analysis guys! Super interesting to see the side to side difference! Learned so much, even at my mere beginner level!

[@Perrseus]

Love the series, I could see my poor technique self learning a lot from these videos!

[@swissard68]

Awesome episodes, this kind of analysis. Thank you so so much. We learn so much with this kind of content

[@noahprice9805]

Wow! Really well done video. You guys just popped up in my recommended but this video is so helpful in pointing out differences in climbing technique! Cheers!

[@LaptopiaLTD]

Love these analysis videos...could watch them all day long!

[@patrickbeauchemin110]

Great video! Points are really good but what about the height and reach when comparing positions.. !?

[@HoopersBeta]

Good point! Would be good to list exact heights / wing spans

[@psicologiageneraleconalleg369]

If possible, I would also love to see a comparison between a man and a woman on the same problem to see how anatomic differences impact both the style and the physiology of the climb. This series is awsome

[@HoopersBeta]

Absolutely! I think that's a great point and would make for an awesome video.

[@karlderdelinckx]

with the big move. Often in such a move you can swing the legs out so that the upper body gets a force in the other direction and so keeps you’re hands in the right hook to stay on the wall. You see janja use this technique quite often.

[@justinmeyerr]

Nah man. He and she are using power through shoulders/core /posterior chain to stop the swing. Pulling straight down is enough to keep the hands "hooked" in this instance. With technique, he keeps his one knee forward to minimize weight transfer (swing) and use less energy to gain the next move. Less momentum away from the pivot point means less power needed to stay on and gain control.

[@karlderdelinckx]

@@justinmeyerr seemed my link was wrong. In the comparison between the 2 guys who do the swing the right one puts a bit more swing into his legs which could result in a force in his arms making him capable of holding his arms in the same position. Only the climber himself can know if that was the case. But it is a technique they did not mention.

[@justinmeyerr]

@@karlderdelinckx yah the def didn't mention the leg positions. Those were the biggest factors on this crux move

[@mv2woods]

Great video! If you could explain what the different anatomical terms are that you're referring to, that would be super helpful!

[@tomcampbell-ricketts2818]

Very interesting analysis, well done. At about 7:50, when you guys are talking about the left foot coming off, I found it interesting that both climbers went for the right hand, right foot combination. Looking at the hold configuration, my default approach (assuming I was strong enough to use those hand holds) would be to step inside with the left, outside-edging where the right foot is. This would mean that the line of support passes through the body's centre of mass, which seems more stable than having both points of support on the same side. Also, by bringing the left hip in, it means the left shoulder can go much higher than the right, without having to bend the right arm, possibly allowing to reach the next hold with much less dynamic movement (perhaps eliminating the big swing). Is there a reason this sequence isn't effective on these holds? Perhaps the left hand being so far to the left is not conducive?

[@GrundkursBouldern]

Without knowing the climb myself I think stepping with your left foot would mean that you need to rotate your body inward and reach through between your body and the rock. The problem is that because you would be able to stay close to the wall on the lower part of the movement, you would have a hard time reaching around the lip on the upper part. In order to not hit your elbow on the rock you would need to move outward, which means building up momentum pulling you away from the wall and out of your holds. But even if you get to the hold, you are like to lose your foothold resulting in a much stronger rotation of your body than with the beta used in the video. Judging from the looks of their faces they already have a hard time killing the rotation and outward momentum on their attemps although they are positioned frontally to the wall with their bodyweight hanging right underneath the holds.

[@HoopersBeta]

Hey Tom, that's a great point! I agree it seems like the left leg would have been a better choice in this instance, however the main reason it didn't work is because the foothold is so far over to the right and very much "underneath" us because of the overhang (which is hard to see in the video). With the right handhold being as flat and downward-sloping as it is, it was not possible to lie back and pull in with the right hand enough to allow us to weight that foothold with our left foot. And even if we could have stuck our left foot there, it would have forced our bodies down and to the left as we tried to lie back and maintain grip on the right hand, which would have put us further away from the next hold (here's some very bad drawings I did to crudely illustrate what I'm talking about: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1WizVn3z90cPoYBa8KYKM__lnZzKaqpqC?usp=sharing) We tried tons of different beta while working this one move -- drop knees, every other foot we could find, etc -- and none of it worked as well as the beta we ended up using. (Sidenote: Jeremy Fullerton did that move by bumping his right hand to the lip rather than doing the big cross -- see his video on KZbin for reference.) I hope that makes sense! Kind of hard to explain over text. :) - Emile

[@tomcampbell-ricketts2818]

@@HoopersBeta Emile, thanks for the detailed explanation. The drawings are awesome!

[@kAb1307]

Haven't been and don't have a joes guidebook (SE boy here) but is the FA more of an eliminate thus deserving the v11 and the go out right beta a different line altogether cashing in slightly easier at v10. I'm thinking of similar lines where it's basically the same problem with two variations/grades. Horse pens 40 Chattanooga plow vs Alabama tiller comes to mind. Great video series, and the whole channel is simply phenomenal.

[@HoopersBeta]

They certainly could be considered two different lines; I think that would be cool! To keep the theme of the boulder consistent, we could call it "Them Baggy Sweatpants" lol. In reality I don't think many people will do it the way Griffin did because it's SO much harder and the alternative -- the big move to the lip -- is really cool, which unfortunately means the original Apple Bottom Jeans beta will fall to obscurity. I'm not sure what the guidebook says but there's a new one coming out this year (@isaaccaldiero) and it'll be interesting to see how it handles this climb. Glad you're enjoying the videos :) -Emile

[@timonix2]

I need to start analyzing my climbs more with a camera. The more I can learn on the ground while not climbing the more I can achieve with my limited time on the wall

[@PS-nm8wk]

Thanks for this great video! I found it super interesting that you went so in depth with every single move, analysing body position, muscles and so on. Comparing two climbers really brings out the advantages of different approaches to a problem. I'll try to incorporate that excercise into my training, too. It would make the comparison easier for me if you could state visually (with a thumbs up or whatever) who's doing a better job at the single moves. Sometimes I wasn't sure since this is way above my level. Maybe also sometimes it's not better, just different?

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the feedback! I like your suggestion -- I'll make the "who's doing a better job" part more clear in the future. :) - Emile

[@willmurrin9344]

Hyper-analysis to the point of pontification, but educational and I enjoyed it. Thanks.

[@psicologiageneraleconalleg369]

What happened to the third video of the playlist? I can't watch it 😭

[@HoopersBeta]

Fixed! It must have been a different version that was replaced but not removed from the playlist. Thanks for the heads up!

[@martin--cham]

Is the left climber taller? Seems like it would explain the arm extensions differences

[@MrDziuka]

First move , climber on the right rocks over on his left foot more therefore hips closer to the rock which results with more weight put on left foot and with more time to grab the second hold better. Climber on the left looks like he is grabbing the hold nearly already falling backwards. Knee too perpendicular to the wall pushing hips away from wall by nearly hitting the wall. Lower traps are so important for climbing. Since I discovered that exercise and applied in my training my shoulder feels so much better. Very good advice 👍

[@HoopersBeta]

I like your analysis! Thanks for sharing and glad your shoulder is feeling solid. - Emile

[@MrDziuka]

@@HoopersBeta thank you and you're welcome. 30 years of climbing an over 10 years of coaching made me analyze climbing movement well 😉. I have Instagram called bordersclimbing_coaching with few posts there on techniques analysis. You are welcome to check it out if you are interested and perhaps give me a like 😉 it would be appreciated ☺️. Thanks for making your video 👍

[@willstollsteimer9147]

Griffen whiteside eats v16 for breakfast

[@DXisHHHBK]

What's the song you used in the intro? I'm always impressed by your music choices!

[@HoopersBeta]

Speed Bumps by Aves :)

[@ralfrussel1950]

Before having watched the video I would say a good balance of both.

[@t.m.4808]

love the content keep hiting me with the facts

[@freemaker38]

More please, MORE!!

[@MJD.21]

Your channel is so underrated! I just subscribed! P.s new climber!

[@mariadb6799]

I'm really loving these climbing analysis dissections and the exercises to train the moves to gain strength or flexibility. Since gym is closed can't yet test it out, but hopefully will see something when i start again... Ps, please 😊can you include demo on deadlifts with dumbbells, I don't have a barbell...

[@HoopersBeta]

Yeah! Learn it now and when you can climb again you may be able to read and apply it better. Good call! We are working the backbones of the deadlift vid and will try and incorporate that!

[@theDomCorporation]

I have wanted to add deadlifts to my routine for a while, but I don't have access to a bar or weights. Is there a good alternative for at home, or a good alternate bodyweight exercise to train similar areas?

[@HoopersBeta]

Doing single leg stiff leg romanian deadlifts would be a good alternate! (SLSLRDL's for short ;) haha). You can step on a resistance band to make it harder!

[@theDomCorporation]

@@HoopersBeta Thanks for the reply! I hadn't heard of SLSLRDL's before (haha I wonder why), I'll be sure to check them out :)

[@amitbendror]

cool video! i think there is a height difference as well, so it makes sense the shorter climber needs to get more momentum for the big move, also usually shorter climbers feel more comfortable cutting loose then taller climbers.

[@harrisonjschultz]

Do you guys have a video on a climbing/workout program?

[@HoopersBeta]

We have multiple training videos as well as a few circuits but will be working on another one shortly!

[@harrisonjschultz]

@@HoopersBeta Ah, sorry I might need to rephrase, I meant a week to week program, i.e how you could plan your training over the course of a week?

[@HoopersBeta]

@@harrisonjschultz that has been on our list for how to program your training with climbing, we just have a very long list :)

[@mikeandjazzy209]

one must be strong enough to execute proper technique !

[@mlkdfs]

Exactly.

[@RJyost37]

just out of curiosity how many times have you each climbed this boulder at this point? or are these first ascents for both of you?

[@HoopersBeta]

This was the first ascent for both of us 🤙 - Emile

[@NETAAAMUSIC]

What's the first song's name?

[@HoopersBeta]

Speed Bumps by Aves

[@NETAAAMUSIC]

@@HoopersBeta Thanks

[@RedSkyLB]

Matt Fultz doing deadlifts with tension blocks 👌

[@RedSkyLB]

Believe griffin has snuck in at least one V16 ascent... crazy strong

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha that sounds awesome!

[@Leon-nr6oj]

Rain Limb End

[@nbka8rs]

For the algo! PS: buy the shirts guys, I just got mine and its a good fit/material/look!

[@MrMosherMosher]

good vid

[@sofiaspassova9587]

but guys, like height difference is pretty much the only reason why your body positions are different :D

[@HoopersBeta]

It’s definitely A reason, but there’s no reason to believe it’s the ONLY reason. To believe that would be to disregard all other anatomical differences, not to mention technique preferences. - Emile

[@cillijed4291]

great video

[@mnemotorsports]

Deadlift

[@deguzman1129]

Who came to hooper channel and subcribed because of geek latest video?

[@TheQuicksilver115]

Ohhh man, so much great info in this entire video and here I am just laughing my ass off at an accidental dick pic rofllllll

[@lithiumfire9693]

boots w the fur

[@robsoncabralrodrigues5814]

📺🤔🇧🇷😁👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

[@АндрейСарнавский-у9т]

strength always beats technique.

[@HoopersBeta]

Demonstrably false, but thanks for chiming in :)

[@АндрейСарнавский-у9т]

@@HoopersBeta anyone can gain technique in 2-3 years(if you have a brain) technique is not a problem and will never be. Ligaments and joints are problems to make them strong takes 5 times more time then technique if of course if you know hoe to train them.

[@АндрейСарнавский-у9т]

@@HoopersBeta i can guaranty that you are delusional and i explain why. There is Silence 9c if i recreate exact same root but with 6a grips. 99% of climbers will do this root without a problem. It is only about finger and body strength. ONLY

[@itsmyboardwhotalk]

sometimes i wonder if bodybuilding destroyed weight lifting or if people are just incredible lazy

[@candicelakin0016]

I need boyfriend 💋💋💋💋💋💞💞💞💞

[@reefleschmeek4226]

well you can't have jason, he's ours.

[@HoopersBeta]

😂