Why Your Strength Isn't Transferring to Climbing (FIX THESE MISTAKES!)

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// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Intro
00:16 How to maximize friction/force on holds
01:12 How to stand on volumes so you don't slip
02:21 Long-term and INSTANT hip flexion gains
03:26 Why newer climbers push themselves off the wall
04:32 When technique hasn't caught up to strength...
05:56 Drop knees can work against you
07:28 Emil Abrahamsson on Off the Wagon V14/8B+
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 117
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/w...
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy

[@kockarthur7976]

9:24 I think that’s Jan Hojer, not Vadim Timonov. You even included Vadim’s clips on OtW.

[@HoopersBeta]

Good catch, thanks! You're correct

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Don’t make me talk about my INCREDIBLE deadlift-and-bench-strength in my next video Hooper. This personal attack is unacceptable. It was really a… weak… move of you.

[@HoopersBeta]

Case study: Emil brings a barbell and bench to Off The Wagon. Reps it out and hit's new PR's. Then day-flashes the proj.

[@danielbeall7725]

😂❤

[@raiemie7365]

this content might be niche and really tryhard but I like the precise breakdowns, it helps better understand technique and how to climb efficiently !

[@mgauth14]

I was the sketchy foot wedge climber, thankfully I have since been able to send that boulder, all without destroying my ankle in the process🤙🏼 appreciate the mobility advice!

[@HoopersBeta]

Woohoo! Glad to hear that you not only sent it, but lived to tell the story! 🙏

[@RPD_ps]

Climbing is scary, but not in the way most non-climbers think it is... Congratulations!

[@EmileModesitt]

Nice work!! Thanks for sending in your footage

[@kylemasterson9153]

Loving the content! I get the feeling that a lot of climbers learn the concepts described in this video intuitively, and are practicing them when they send their hardest projects, but having them put into words makes it possible to consciously practice them. I particularly liked the comment about how being 20% stronger nets you nothing if you are climbing in 20% disadvantaged positions, really puts the benefits of practicing "technique" into perspective. I would love to see videos like this focused on particular features (roofs, slabs, aretes, etc.) and holds to hear what we mean by "technique" in these different scenarios, and maybe even some pointers for what to train if you genuinely are not strong enough!

[@HoopersBeta]

Agreed! I thought that was a wonderful bit of info from Dan! Thanks for sharing the support.

[@danielbeall7725]

Ooh. Interesting. One of the local gyms here does a “slab lab” set sometimes. I wonder if we might be able to set up a collaboration and do a slab clinic / video there… 🤔

[@therootb]

This deep analysis of physiology and kinesiology with respect to each climbing video example is amazing.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.

[@richardtorcasio4130]

Pleeeeeease more of these videos as a more advanced climber this is super helpful in recognizing micro beta changes that make a climb that little bit easier

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you for the comment, it gets us psyched to make more of these! (And yes, definitely more to come :))

[@jasellis5351]

Seconded. This video is amazing. Whilst strong (enough), I really struggle with compound moves and have always envied the people that can just 'do' them. I need to think about it consciously. This video blew my mind. Thank you!

[@leoingson]

Those are the not-so-obvious details, thanks!

[@andrewkim9503]

Super cool. Especially seeing you look over Emil's video.

[@HoopersBeta]

Agreed! Be sure to check out his full length video, it's worth a watch!

[@andrewkim9503]

@@HoopersBeta Already have :)

[@yev_music]

The content just keeps getting better!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you!

[@p_lilli]

super interesting, so many insights! Thanks.

[@HoopersBeta]

🙏 our pleasure!

[@jhy8191]

Love how granular the analysis is!🔬Kind of makes me wonder how climbers get up anything 😉

[@HoopersBeta]

Half the time I think it's just the support (and yelling words of encouragement) from the crew that gets me up the wall... 😅 The other half is analyzing technique, discussing beta with friends, and then blacking out and just sending.

[@danielbeall7725]

Luckily most problems we humans try to solve don’t require a perfect answer 😂

[@SnowmansApartment]

These videos always show me that recording yourself can be a very meaningful tool to assess your technique in more detail, rather than depending on how you feel when doing some moves. I might try it sometime!

[@HoopersBeta]

You should! It's a super useful tool :)

[@rdawggg]

Oh man! This is so great! Thank you so much

[@HoopersBeta]

Awesome! Glad you enjoyed it :)

[@alexandrenicolaus7072]

Great video ! It's very interesting .

[@moistheat]

Emilio Cameo

[@Emil_Ortiz]

Too many Emils in one video, got confused.

[@HoopersBeta]

hah :)

[@EmileModesitt]

😂

[@wadball]

god im so glad i subbed. learning so much every vid i click on

[@HoopersBeta]

That's great to hear! :)

[@jean-paulkorkmaz659]

Super interesting stuff 👌

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@bertrandr]

I thought this was the best assessments yet on this series (haven't seem them all tbf, but I always am kind of like "yeah true but maybe..", here nothing to say it all sounds very logical and really insightful thanks! especially that last one. Looking forward to more !

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for the support and glad you enjoyed this one! You should definitely check them all out, loads of tips throughout this series 👌

[@danielbeall7725]

Appreciate it! So much of climbing is… contextual. When we’re filming, we tend to go into a lot more depth with the “well it depends”, but to keep these videos from being eternally long, a lot of that has to be cut out 🤷🏻‍♂️ Still searching for the optimal balance 👌🏻

[@AdamCulp]

Thanks for sharing. A little intro would have been helpful. Had to watch the beginning a couple times to realize what was going on. Seemed very disconnected, and lost me. But I was determined to understand the video purpose, with repetition. :P After that, it was incredibly helpful.

[@HoopersBeta]

That's fair! Sometimes we just like to jump right in and get the ball rolling to deliver the information as fast as possible! But I can see how that can be confusing :) Thanks for the feedback.

[@stephendaedalus7841]

*maximize the normal force

[@jlehm]

Some background info in case you guys haven’t been on nerve extension…those holds are all as smooth as glass. The feet he blew off of probably have less texture than polished blocky limestone. Also, the last move is the crux and is super insecure with a very secure heel. So, most likely, he was not comfortable at all, didn’t trust his hand to stay on, and pulled the heel to keep from back splatting.

[@danielbeall7725]

I am familiar with nerve extension (and very very familiar with climbing on glassy rock) but you do make a good point. That said, it is also important not to let insecure holds cause you to compromise movement mechanics. The less forgiving the holds, the more important it is to optimize body position.

[@jlehm]

@@danielbeall7725 I can agree with that to a point. Safety should be your first priority imo, and sometimes the optimal positions aren’t the safest. If that guy had a mega spot and a ton of pads, then I’d 100% agree. 👍

[@Emil_Ortiz]

Update: I’ve since taken up the art of epic back dives, splats, and flops. This was taken to such a degree that my climbing pals were concerned for how recklessly I was slamming my back on the pads 😜

[@Emil_Ortiz]

Thanks Dan. I love the attention to detail that you provide, it’s how you get good at stuff and who doesn’t like being good at stuff!?!

[@stevitosgay]

Great videos great quickfire style, huge fan

[@HoopersBeta]

Nice! Thank you for the feedback!

[@bobwama10]

Love this analysis! What software is Dan using?

[@mateuszluczak3054]

Great content guys... as always 🙂

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you!

[@Laura147HLY]

Very interesting.

[@isabellecs9153]

I've got a calf-muscles related question!! I cannot seem to be able to load my foot or heal because of quick/intense cramping in the area (and or total weakness?) in certain situations: when my toes are pointed; when the hold is higher (like hand/foot match and load the leg to move up or onward on the climb)/when I'm below the hold or the hold is further (leg more extended). I do not seem to be lacking strength (or less so) when foot is flexed and or hipjoint is externally rotated and the hold is closer. I'm really looking forward to getting any advice on this! Why it happens, what to do about it, recovery, warm ups, trainings.. I tried thinking about movements that would be specific and helpful in at least warmups as to prevent the cramps.. maybe loading an elastic with my heal, toes pointed, below a bar and lift the hips and bend the knee?! Thx 🙂 And of course thanks for this amazing high quality mindblowingly knowledge expanding work/channel. 🧡

[@georgealexanderp]

more daaaaaan

[@danielbeall7725]

Thanks 😁

[@georgealexanderp]

@@danielbeall7725 this is your next climbing career move. You join hoopers beta doing movement analysis. Life goals.

[@TheYabbyman]

Great content. The first problem (Söknasfristen/ Espenshangel), however, does not lend itself to this kind of analysis. The key is to push yourself underneath the sloper with your right foot. The heal is not that crucial....

[@LoveAndClimbing]

9:05 Isn't there an effect where bending the wrist back engages some tendon/skeletal leverage to close the hand? I.e. if you bend your wrist back, your fingers naturally close. This effect can eke out a tiny bit more grip which might be what Emil is trying to do by bending the wrist (perhaps intuitively rather than consciously) given he's saying he doesn't think he has the finger strength for the move.

[@danielbeall7725]

This is one of those “sort of” situations that’s a little to involved to answer in the comments I’m afraid, but good observation!

[@duncanedelstein6553]

Golden rail is staunch for the grade . 😂😂

[@debetterest7773]

Hi Hooper! I just watched your hamstring injury video as I've recently, what I think have done is strained my hamstring. When I was climbing, after engaging the heel hook, I felt a slight pop or maybe a shift of the muscle. After looking at the video of my climb it was in more of a extended position and have pinpointed that with hip extension, I feel maybe a 1/10 pain up nearer my sit bone but possibly just short of it. I would like to consider your rehab plan but should I go to a physician? Thanks and great videos!

[@luissun2103]

Always get a physician opinion. Don't ever auto prescribe treatments.

[@craigbritton1089]

Love the use of physics:

[@joshuahenry918]

I have a question that I have struggled to solve for a long time! I find I REALLY struggle with cross moves with and without feet (much like off the wagon...though much easier). I have really broad shoulders and a wide base, and I have considered that this makes the movement much harder, which was alluded to somewhat in this video. Although there are many factors that contribute to an individual struggling on certain movements, I know may overall "broadness" makes it mechanically more difficult to do this type of cross movement. Any suggestions for strength training, and on the wall movement focus I can implement to improve this movement?

[@danielbeall7725]

Some shoulder stretches, possibly work on rotation / thoracic spine mobility, and more than anything, making sure to rotate your body for cross moves. More than anything, the sense of being “bound” comes from trying to stay more square to the wall than is absolutely necessary. Trying to rotate towards perpendicular is essential. I’m not able to give a more detailed reply in comments I’m afraid.

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

Do a lot of traversing in training, challenging yourself for creative reach throughs and backstep moves. Most of my bouldering is traversing, since I seriously dislike pads.

[@ZackRaborn]

Nice.

[@HoopersBeta]

Take it to Red Rock

[@smockytubers1188]

Maybe a silly question, at 1:34 when Dan is talking about "turning the heel" does he mean which direction the heel is or the direction it's pointing? I imagine he means turning the foot so that the arch is nearer the wall, but I'm not actually sure.

[@HoopersBeta]

Not silly at all! Dan meant that you want the force to be perpendicular to the hold (or rock), so if you’re pushing into the rock with your heel you’ll get the most friction by having you foot perpendicular to it (toes pointing away at a 90 degree angle from the rock). Hope that makes sense!

[@paulgaras2606]

Any chance this can be a regular thing? I’d send in some footage for critique.

[@danielbeall7725]

We’ve been doing them roughly monthly so far! There will definitely be another chance :)

[@paulgaras2606]

@@danielbeall7725 shows how much I’ve been paying attention!

[@AllegraClimbingPsychologist]

I feel like most of the things Dan's talking about are not coming across? It would be nice to see a practical example on the wall to see the difference that those suddelties are producing.

[@danielbeall7725]

Out of curiosity, is this in regards to this video in particular or the AOC series in general? I agree that this video kind of minimized context for a faster pace. We’ve been experimenting with different styles of editing to see what you guys prefer. Always challenges with a broad audience.

[@nbka8rs]

algogogogogoooooooooooooooooooooooo

[@Thaitan15]

The editing felt very chaotic, hard to follow to breakdown on some climbs where there was cuts to later in the climb or completely different climbs.

[@EmileModesitt]

Appreciate the feedback! The full, uncut video was 2 hours long, so to get it down to a length that people will actually watch I have to cut it aggressively - thus the occasional “jumpy” nature of the final video. The more of these we do, however, the more we’ll refine them. We’re still learning 🤙

[@benja_mint]

@@EmileModesitt these dan Beall videos are so good that I honestly would watch them if they were two hours long. Maybe upload the uncut sessions on a seperate channel?

[@Crazyoldman84]

Are you Bruce Campbell's son?

[@toddgreen6862]

This is why you never should have public video of yourself climbing because all your excuses of too go right out the window as Dan draws 500 arrows on top of you of why it's just your poor technique.

[@AshleySwensonClimbing]

Hahahaha.

[@HoopersBeta]

Hah 😅 and to think everyone willingly submitted these videos 🧗‍♂️

[@AshleySwensonClimbing]

@@HoopersBeta How do people submit? I wanna know the things I'm doing wrong while climbing!

[@HoopersBeta]

Be sure to be subscribed as we do call outs for videos a few weeks before filming. It will be posted on our KZbin forum page :)

[@EmileModesitt]

@@AshleySwensonClimbing we also post the callouts on IG which is probably a little more convenient/accessible than the KZbin community page 🤙

[@DonatRC]

In my opinion you guys are over generalizing in a sport where movement is so varied and dependent on the climbers mobility, skills, strengths etc… as a generalization what you are saying makes sense but you make a lot of assumptions in this video in terms of corrections that would be successful on problems you probably have little experience with. I take everything that is said in this video with a large grain of salt.

[@HoopersBeta]

The point of these videos is to generate useful insight for a general audience, with the second priority being giving useful advice for a specific climb. Given that order of priorities, making generalizations is essential - that’s what makes these videos valuable to a larger audience.

[@thephilej]

Thanks guys! I’ll be sure to level up my angle-game while climbing 🦩📐

[@HoopersBeta]

💪💪💪