How Body Shops Fix Rust Holes in Hoods and Deck/Trunk Lids - Start to Finish

[@davidniebeling77]

Thank you for your concise, no nonsense approach to these videos. I've watched quite a few of them and have really learned a lot from you.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks and you're welcome David - glad you enjoy them - have a great week :)

[@gergemall]

Excellent job; this is all on my bucket list, so you're stuck with me for a while .

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Jon - sorry about the late reply - missed it :)

[@pstreetgarage7304]

Wow. You made that look easy. The relief cuts were genius, I was wondering how you were going to form that. Thanks for showing that its OK to weld, tap down and fill. Unlike all the car reality TV shows.

[@LakesideAutobody]

This is how most shops do it - with a few variances. Some use panel adhesive, some weld, etc. Depends on what the boss wants - but this is/was a standard approach to this type of repair. You probably saw this before but here's the reasoning behind it - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gHqsoKGAhLulpZY Always a pleasure to hear from you PSG :)

[@805ROADKING]

Excellent job Bud!! We had to do the exact repair to the hood of the F100!! That repair will outlast the car!!☺

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're right - thanks for watching. Nice job so far on the floor boards of that Ford. Gonna be real nice truck when you're done :)

[@johnblackburn7673]

Great job. Been watching your videos for a while now. You make everything look so simple and achievable

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - glad you enjoy the content. I hope to upload many more. Thanks again for watching and the support :)

[@andylong5432]

I just can’t stop watching these videos. Keep it up

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for watching Andy. I'll keep them coming - have a good week my friend :)

[@d.e.m8219]

You have the most informative program on You Tube!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for the kind words D.E.M. - have a good end of the week :)

[@frankclements1431]

You sir are a genius and an artist.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Frank - I appreciate the kind words :)

[@johnmislow6756]

You sir are a magician, you make the rust disappear!!! Your "one and done" is the way to do it. Your ability to show how it is done correctly is amazing. I will be using your repair method! Thank you very much for sharing your ability.

[@LakesideAutobody]

This really is the standard procedure in the best quality shops I've worked at. There's no way these shops would have stood for any other method. See Eastwood’s video as to why body shops don’t butt weld then aggressively grind off the strongest part of the welds, and attempt to metal finish today’s extremely thin metal: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKGrZmOhnZmKZpI Glad you appreciate the videos and content - thank you for watching and have a great weekend :)

[@Biokemist-o3k]

I started working on the deck lid of my Porsche and I qas able to remove most of the mounting bolts by slowly turning them out and lubricating them and turning them back in many times until they cam e out. The last one I tried too hard and broke the nolt off. No biggie. However I found that the top of the lid is in great shape except for a small four or five inchpiece. The supports on the underside are where most of the work will have to be focused, It is starting to look better already thanks to you.

[@LakesideAutobody]

That's good to hear - glad I could help. Sounds like fun :)

[@OscarHedden-eh4xk]

Nice to watch an educational video without blaring music.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Glad you liked it - I appreciate your input Oscar :)

[@Biokemist-o3k]

Fantastic!!! I just pulled a Porsche factory race car out of a muddy field in Western Pa and luckily it had not been out there the whole time. I am starting on the deck lid to get into the groove of making my own body panels and patch panels so I can do repairs the right way. Thank you for the videos!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome John - for really rusty stuff you'll want to use this method. Here's a video on longevity of this type of repair - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM

[@Biokemist-o3k]

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you! Excellent video on the longetivity. I am stoked to start working on the deck lid tomorrow!

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@Biokemist-o3k Glad to hear it - ask ?s as you go if you need to. I get to them once or twice a day :)

[@Biokemist-o3k]

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you!! Where are you guys located? I am here in Pennsylvania near King of Prussia. Just going out to work on my deck lid. I will let you know how it goes.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@Biokemist-o3k We're up north in Michigan on Lake Saint Helen. Just a small private little shop where I make videos. Retired now but I enjoy making videos :)

[@v8man350]

Flawless Jerry, excellent work as usual, thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome v8man - good to hear from you. Thanks for watching and the support :)

[@kandoo1316]

Probably worth all the work to fix a rare hood on a classic car but would buy a brand new one for cheaper for my new car. Very nice video, true worksmanship.

[@LakesideAutobody]

For sure. What ever works for your wallet and your project :)

[@ZiggyWarren]

Masterful Jerry, your videos inspire a lot of folks!

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate that - thanks for watching and you support :)

[@adamwade6183]

Perfect video I needed to see. Thank you so much

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Adam - enjoy the week :)

[@wastelandfab]

Awesome video I need to do the same style repair on my 50 Ford, I would be really interested in a shop tour I'm setting up my shop now and would like to see the space you're working out thanks for sharing.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Any time. You can email me at schoolvideolibrary at gmail dot com - Jerry

[@midnighttutor]

I am working on a similar repair on my truck right now, except put some shape into the replacement panels on an english wheel and butt tig welded it. My question: how do you make sure that the bottom edge of the hood comes out perfectly straight/flat when it is in the correct orientation to be installed on the car? After doing all the welding mine is a little off. Has nothing to do with the weld or fitup my template was a little off and I did not know that hoods are perfectly flat beforehand. Thank you very much!

[@LakesideAutobody]

This was a junk hood just to use for a demo but when doing it for real we always leave the panel on the car/truck to check as you go. If it is not for off... can you adjust the bumpers or bend it around a bit with a body hammer or larger then fix the rest with filler? Let me know how it goes or what you end up doing. Ask again if this didn't help. Don't feel bad if you have to redo - happened to me a few times before I finally learned to leave the panel on the car and always check before welding it up :)

[@lcar9871]

Nice job Jerry - very practical approach to that repair!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Icar - good to hear from you - have a good week / week end :)

[@vincentwhite3169]

I think you should have cleaned the entire surface of the intended welded areas before welding.

[@buttonysquare8501]

It’s clean sheet metal stock and he already ground the edge of the welding area. Nothing wrong with what he did and it’s not structural work anyways.

[@corvettekid3791]

Actually loved the video. It made me think of another question. What makes this type of repair a better choice than buying a new panel?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Well.. sometimes you literally can't find a replacement and you have to repair it. Also if you are doing it yourself, it's much cheaper and easier to fix than to replace. A new hood would have to be cut in (painted underneath), it might not fit as well as OEM or the original :)

[@Greenturkeyman]

just found your channel and have subscribed. Great job again!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Roy - have a good week :)

[@cootason]

Beautiful work mate looks as good as new :). trying to get something like this done on a boot lid but every panel beater I go to wants me to get another boot lid from a wrecker as the man structure of the panel is rusted and crusting at the bottoms. other than that the car looks great and runs great just the boot lid im restoring. or replacing.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks my friend. Good luck finding one that's rust free :)

[@brucewalters8974]

Always enjoy your work....

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate that - thanks for watching :)

[@ukexbreakdownman]

great job made it look easy

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for the support UKEX - have a great weekend :)

[@Mikefngarage]

SO MANY PEOPLE overcomplicate this stuff. This repair would last for yeas and probably outlast the car. I love it when guys say that is too much filler on that OMG. Some of these channels and FAB schools need to learn that this stuff works.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Very good point Mike. If your are afraid to use filler, you won't be working in a body shop for too long. It's used in every dealership and private body shop across the nation - every day. Probably even in the factory. No one knows it because these guys use it correctly. Used right and you'll never have an issue as you already know. Thanks for the support and wisdom :)

[@martysheets6882]

Thanks for the help, lots of Talent.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Marty - I appreciate the kind words :)

[@aljones9866]

Great video as usual Jerry Thanks Al

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Al - have a good weekend :)

[@UndergroundPaintKing]

Great job Jerry you make it look easy!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks UPK - have a good week. Looks like you have a lot of work over there - that's a good thing :)

[@UndergroundPaintKing]

@@LakesideAutobody Yes sir I do but I’m working my way through it...enjoy your week Jerry!

[@quackquack6116]

Awesome video and great work sir really have learned a lot from your videos

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks QQ, glad you enjoy them. Have a good week :)

[@BlacharzOstatniejSzansy]

Love your videos. So much knowledge.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate that - glad you like them. Have a great week :)

[@garyburgess3829]

Great work Jerry.. enjoyed as usual...

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Gary - glad you enjoy the videos - have a good week. Thanks for watching and the support :)

[@ChipsAndSparksGarage]

Great results, Jerry! The lap welding definitely saves a lot of time.👍Tony B

[@LakesideAutobody]

As I told KQ up above, This really is the standard procedure in the best quality shops I've worked at. There's no way these shops would have stood for any other method. See Eastwood’s video as to why body shops don’t butt weld then aggressively grind off the strongest part of the welds, and attempt to metal finish today’s extremely thin metal: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKGrZmOhnZmKZpI

[@ChipsAndSparksGarage]

@@LakesideAutobody That makes perfect sense. Thanks for these videos, Jerry!

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@ChipsAndSparksGarage You're welcome, thanks for watching and have a great weekend :)

[@husky1232]

Came out realy nice Jerry thank you for the video

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Husky have a good day :)

[@larahshrieber1370]

In my area of the nation, the body shops would change the entire hood with a new one, less time consuming. But it`s nice to know how to fix the hood if there`s no other option.

[@LakesideAutobody]

This is an 87 Dodge Raider - I didn't think they would make a hood for it new but they do! Pretty cool SUV actually. You're right, it is good to know the procedure in case you can't get the parts or can't afford them.

[@bondpit8750]

@@LakesideAutobody as I’m sure you know, it was ‘Made by Mitsubishi’. Not sure how many panels were unique but the hood was likely generic between the two vehicles and Mitsubishi undoubtedly sold many more vehicles around the world, than Dodge did domestically, thus the available parts, even 30+ years later.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@bondpit8750 Thanks for the info Bondpit - they were tough little 4x4s for sure. Wish I would have bought one new and kept it nice - I like how boxy they are :)

[@45AMT]

That really turned out nice! Thanks for sharing!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for watching! You're welcome :)

[@Mrtekem]

Amazing

[@jimbob3708]

Mr. Jerry, you may can help me in this, I don't know. I have a 50 Ford Tudor that I restored. My bodywork was.. pretty terrible. I'll admit it even though nobody else will. The patch panels were tacked in place, every 2" or so, then filled over. I need to grind it back down to bare metal and fix it over the whole car. What's the quickest (or maybe best) way to remove large swaths of paint and filler? We blasted most of the car, it was coated with a heavy rust primer afterwards, so I don't think rust is a concern. Should I razor scrape it and save my lungs? Or just sand it down?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Maybe just cut right through it with a sawzall and metal blade or use an air hammer with this - www.toolpan.com/Grey-Pneumatic-CH110--Claw-Ripper-and-Panel-Cutter-Impact-Chisel_p_15891.html?gclid= Harbor freight has this that might work too www.harborfreight.com/high-speed-metal-saw-91753.html That's if you know where the patches are. If not you'll have to use a 24 grit fiber resin disc on a sander/polisher like this www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers-buffers/variable-speed-polishers/corded-7-in-10-amp-variable-speed-polisher-62861.html Let me know what you decide or if you have more ?s - Jerry

[@chrisfreemesser5707]

Looks good as new! I tried my hand at repairing rust damage on my car and your cheese grater trick worked really well. If the inner panel had more rust damage, would you have cut that back and welded a new strip onto that as well?

[@LakesideAutobody]

So glad to hear the grater worked for you - saves your lungs! Yes, if the inner panel was rusted you would do just what you said like this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b2PQo2N5a5enp5I

[@chrisbishop8979]

Happy Spring! Great Job. Very educational. I enjoy your videos. Can you comment on those wooden “board file” sanders. I would like to buy 1 or 2. What would you suggest? Brand, style, size? Thank you!!! Chris in MN.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Sure - here's some from tp tools: www.tptools.com/Professional-Straight-Board-Sanders,461.html?b=s*sanding+boards I use the two longer boards. There are other companies that make them too - autobodytoolmart, harbor freight too I think. Happy Spring to you too - when it finally gets here :)

[@curtismuma1931]

Great work as always! And a lot of it.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks again! Good to hear from you as always :)

[@stevewarren3051]

Just curious. Is your time and material cheaper for a job like this than a new hood?

[@LakesideAutobody]

This is a Dodge Raider (cool SUV actually) - Not sure if they sell a new hood for this or not - I'll have to check it out. I think it's around 1988 or something like that. A new hood would be cool but sometimes your boss says, "fix it." or they just can't find a replacement so you'll have to repair. Good to hear from you Steve - thanks for watching :) BTW - they do sell these new! Surprising :)

[@stevewarren3051]

@@LakesideAutobody The idea of leaving the weld proud on the panel and tapping it down before filling is genius. I wish I knew that when I was coming along.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@stevewarren3051 That has been the standard for years in professional body shops but magazines and TV are very afraid to say "filler". They really are not being truthful to folks by saying the holy grail in rust repair is to butt weld and metal finish - that's false. You would not be working long if you started butt welding patch panels here in Michigan body shops. See these videos for more info if interested: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gHqsoKGAhLulpZY For a real life example on longevity see: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM Show less

[@tigerseye73]

Excellent work Jerry. Was wondering where you buy your body hammers and backing blocks. Are they good name brands?

[@LakesideAutobody]

I got them years ago from probably old bosses, my dad, other people I worked with. I think Martin body hammers are good - I've been looking at them online - and you can't go wrong with matco/mac/snap-on. The dollies are cheapies I bought out of tool trucks and guys who sold stuff out of their trunk. Martin also makes good looking dollies too :)

[@davidgibson5756]

When you remove the skin of the hood, you used the 36 grit disk to remove the rust on the inside skin, but do you use a de-rusting agent on the metal before,adding the patch panel?

[@LakesideAutobody]

I don't but here's how I prevent future rust - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM

[@billgroel4463]

Good job thank you for sharing

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Bill - glad you enjoyed it :)

[@vincentwhite3169]

Especially on the underside of that hood

[@ronaldwalker3053]

Jerry, you make it look so easy. Great work. What gauge steel are you using for the repair?

[@LakesideAutobody]

20 gauge (.030") - thanks for the support :)

[@ocd7036]

New subscriber love the vids

[@LakesideAutobody]

Glad to have you - thanks for the sub and feel free to ask any questions you have doesn't have to relate to the video either :)

[@gooby8953]

Looks expensive! Guess I'll just have to bring my impoverished butt down to wally world for bondo...

[@willyg6545]

Aren't your stitch welds a little long and too close together for heat dissipation?

[@LakesideAutobody]

In an open area such as the middle of a door, upper door bottom, etc. you should be more concerned about heat and alternate more often from one spot to another. The edge of this hood is a firm area much like a rocker panel, etc. and there is not much to worry about when it comes to distortion from heat - especially going that slow. Hope that makes sense and helps answer your question :)

[@kq2799]

Thanks for this episode, the trunk edge on my 69 le mans is in the same shape as this hood! lol

[@LakesideAutobody]

This really is the standard procedure in the best quality shops I've worked at. There's no way these shops would have stood for any other method. See Eastwood’s video as to why body shops don’t butt weld then aggressively grind off the strongest part of the welds, and attempt to metal finish today’s extremely thin metal: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKGrZmOhnZmKZpI

[@quinonesj45]

Mr. Jerry what kind of welding machine you use and what kind I justes on machine you do it it

[@LakesideAutobody]

A Miller Millermatic 90 MIG Welder, 110v. Settings are 2 on the voltage (4 heat settings) and wire speed is at 40 (around 1/3 of the dial) Check this video out for the settings and a bit more info. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z3O8on-DlNKMZ9U (settings are at the end of vid)

[@quinonesj45]

Thank you so much

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@quinonesj45 You're welcome JQ :)

[@designsinorbit]

What welder did you use in this video?

[@LakesideAutobody]

That is a Miller Millermatic 90. 110v, .023" wire, 80/20 Argon/CO2 mix. The welder is great for all thicknesses.

[@donaldbaker6961]

Thank you for this lesson I have the harbor freight welder you showed one time the flux core I think so I’m having a horrible time with spot welds is the trick to it to have low heat and fast wire I wish I could spot weld like you I either burn through them I looks like I threw gum on it I put it on low heat and wire about 3-4 should my wire be faster any help would be Awsome thank you 😊

[@LakesideAutobody]

Set the wire speed on 5 and the temp on min. With that harbor freight welder and auto sheet metal, you'll want to have the setting on exactly what I have it on in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5SaeKqcbd5nj8U to start. From there you can make small adjustments. Try moving the gun closer to the metal, use the same angle I'm using, and the same length of trigger time. Clean metal also helps so grind it, sand it or wire brush it. Let me know if any of this helps - if not we'll try something else :)

[@donaldbaker6961]

Thank you very much I will be trying it tomorrow very much appreciated

[@denniswinston7365]

I have a 71 C20 that needs the same treatment 🍕🍕

[@richreece8840]

Hi how long did you leave the first prime before blocking thanks

[@LakesideAutobody]

Usually you can prime then go to lunch - come back and block it. So I'd say about on average a couple of hours and you are safe. This is lacquer primer so it drys pretty fast. It also depends on how thick you put it on too. If you put it on real thick you may have to wait longer. It's always nice to finish up your bodywork late in the afternoon - prime it - then go home for the day. Then you can block sand it the next day with no worries at all :)

[@richreece8840]

@@LakesideAutobody thanks .... I thought if I put 2k high build in 3 coats leave over night .... longer better then let sink block 80/180 then re prime , 180,320 paint

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@richreece8840 Yes you can do that. That would work real well. If you have the patients to wait that is a better approach for sure :)

[@richreece8840]

@@LakesideAutobody thank you great videos

[@paulpollack9262]

Another great video Jerry. Just wanted to know if there wouldn't be an advantage to painting the back side of the repair and the reinforcement before you welding in? I've watched your other videos on rust prevention and remember you mentioned how these panels rust from the inside because they are bare steel at the overlapped seams.

[@LakesideAutobody]

If you can get to the back that would be great to sand blast it and under coat with good SEM or similar rubberized under coat. Otherwise check this video out for information on using lube to creep around inside the panel and prevent rust: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM Have a great week Paul :)

[@grumpycricket]

The heat of the weld would likely burn the paint.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@grumpycricket Yes welding does burn paint for sure - that's why weld through primer is not that effective. There now way the primer is covering every part of the weld you just laid down.

[@busara45thevillain22]

I had this concern as well. I'm running thin sandpaper under the gussets then por-15 along the underside once the metal work is done.

[@abdulhamoui4376]

very cool , what size wire are you using ?

[@LakesideAutobody]

.023" wire w/ a Miller Millermatic 90 :)

[@abdulhamoui4376]

@@LakesideAutobody thanks dude , keep up the great clips👍🏿

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@abdulhamoui4376 Your'e welcome my friend - have a good weekend :)

[@Trackhoe075]

Nice work as usual

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thank you - have a good week :)

[@Trackhoe075]

@@LakesideAutobody you too a f stay safe

[@michaelmarusic8499]

👍🏻Nice repair Jerry! What would you guess your time was to repair it? Was thinking you should mention your tool time for the repair work. That looks like a weekend project one could do. Keep up the great lessons.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - so glad you liked it. Actually I showed every step but cut it short so the video wouldn't be too boring. I'd say a few hours to get to where you are finishing it up getting it ready to throw some primer on it. Basically most patches take about an hour to weld it up and another hour to fill, finish, and DA. So around 2-3 hours for your average rust hole. You still have to block sand it, prime it again, finish sand and paint so.... Paint prep takes the longest - just like the last bit of work finishing a house - could take 20 years! :)

[@RonHuffman]

Awesome

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Ron - appreciate the support :)

[@andrewclarke1212]

How much would something like this cost?

[@LakesideAutobody]

A body shop might charge 500-1000. Maybe even more depending on the shop and the quality that you are asking for :)

[@keithclark486]

What about weld through primer ?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Actually it's best to treat the repair after the welding and painting is done - like many manufacturers are doing now. Here's how I do it and it works real well - cheap too :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/r2GYlYGuqZKhjMU this is one on treating a repair: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM

[@joanwilliams3221]

Good job looks like a old S10 hood ...

[@LakesideAutobody]

It's from a Dodge Raider. Pretty cool vehicle actually. Borrowed it from a salvage yard for this particular video.

[@cthoroughman]

How can I go about getting g a quote from you if you have time for a new customer?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Hi Goose. What state are you in? What do you need done? I mainly focus on videos but sometimes take on jobs if they can be good examples for auto body educational videos :)

[@cthoroughman]

@@LakesideAutobody I live in ohio. I have a 91 CRX that needs rocker panels and wheel arches. I bought some after market rockers but they are not 100% made like th OEM ones. I have watched a bunch of your videos debating on doing it myself but my welding skills just aren't there lol. I had one of these cars when I was 19 so I am going to build another one now that I am 37 lol.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@cthoroughman Send me a few pictures of the rust damage if you want - schoolvideolibrary at gmail. I'm sort of booked up all the way through the winter but I'll take a look at the pics and we can go from there :)

[@cthoroughman]

@@LakesideAutobody I sent you the pics today. I appreciate any help/advice.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@cthoroughman OK - just got in - I'll take a look at them and get back to you.

[@busara45thevillain22]

My welds are tacky and excessive but solid so I'm sure whatever this is I'm doing will last.

[@LakesideAutobody]

As long as they are solid - you're good - just shape them up with a grinder.

[@danamcintyre3565]

If I had been in your shoes I would have sandblasted the in panel and put some kind of paint or primer to slow down the rust from coming back

[@LakesideAutobody]

With respect, it's best to treat the inside after the repair because of the welding heat here's how if interested: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM

[@danamcintyre3565]

@@LakesideAutobody You could have used weld through primer

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@danamcintyre3565 Here's some great info on why manufacturers are getting away from weld through primer: www.repairerdrivennews.com/2017/08/22/fca-explains-ban-on-weld-through-primer-other-considerations-for-welds/ *** Honda: www.repairerdrivennews.com/2016/12/08/honda-explains-rationale-for-new-change-in-weld-through-primer-rules/ ******* "The OEM found that the zinc can contaminate the weld pool, particularly when too much weld-through primer is used - “which it often is,” Tobie said. (And if the surface isn’t prepared correctly, the primer does you no good by flaking off anyway, he said.) A better option would be to make a weld, and then use a corrosion-inhibiting primer after the weld is done, Tobie said."

[@timothyrouse2853]

I use to drill a hole on the inside and spray fish oil , stinks like hell for a few weeks , but will never rust ,

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@timothyrouse2853 Wow - never heard of that before, but it probably stays in there for a long time

[@grahamparr3933]

You seemed to just cover the rusted areas on the inner panel🤔

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes but that will be fine - see this video for proof of that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM You can replace that if you wanted too :)

[@tony1798]

FANTASTIC

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - glad you liked it. Have a great weekend :)

[@hunkydude322]

that truck lid looks like a 1976 pontiac grand prix.

[@LakesideAutobody]

It's off of a late 80's Dodge Raider. That's one tough SUV made for Dodge by Mitsubishi.

[@garagespooky8193]

That no guard on the cutoff wheel scare the fu*k out me.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You'll be fine as long as you wear safety glasses. All will really do to your skin is sort of melt it - it doesn't really cut skin very easily. Hit my hands plenty of times 😒

[@jsh3234]

Not bad , not bad. Your paint work is really pretty nice. But I still don't understand why you are apposed to a nice butt weld. Now you have a higher gap to fill out because of the lapped joint.🤔 I'd like to see you do it some time. It's the same amount of work and of course you still need to watch the heat.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I used butt welds in this video on the edges. I'll do a video on just butt welding for you but know that this method holds up better in salt water than butt welding. See these videos for information on why the highest quality Michigan/Detroit area body shops use this method: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gHqsoKGAhLulpZY *** Also see Eastwood’s explanation: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKGrZmOhnZmKZpI *** For longevity of this type of repair see: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM

[@hanselcelmare9233]

with so much filler you could use tape to cover the rust instead of welding also,much faster.

[@LakesideAutobody]

The real truth is, filler is not bad - that's just internet/TV and magazine stuff. Real shops, private and dealerships use filler every day on almost every job. You don't know it because it's done right. Done wrong, you'll see it :)

[@busara45thevillain22]

This gives me confidence.

[@johnstuby8036]

ouch

[@timeload343]

was with you until you used bondo, you could have finished the metal out better.

[@LakesideAutobody]

With respect and to be honest. If you want to be the best body man/woman, you can never be afraid to use filler. Sail panels from factories have been filled in the same way since the fifties. Where they connect he quarter panel to the roof panel.

[@timeload343]

@@LakesideAutobody true but the less body filler you use the better the outcome.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@timeload343 With all the respect in the world, all good body men/women use what they need to get the job done and don't think for a minute. "Is this to much?" The amount really doesn't make a difference if applied correctly. See this video for more on that topic: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qHrSf5urZptpftk A lot of that NO BOND stuff comes from magazines and tv - guys who never did it for a living. Even hot rod magazine and stuff like that passes on very untrue information. Hope that helps - Jerry

[@splash5974]

This is more a DIY way to fix a hood. Body shops dont fix holes or rust in a hood, they get replaced! Not knocking your work at all, just being realistic being i work in a body shop and financially, its not worth fixing a panel like this. Also, we would have to warranty the repair. And you just wouldnt warranty a repair for a rust fix.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes - they don't fix much anymore. When I worked though (retired), there was a lot more repair than replace for sure. You can always replace.... but if your boss says fix it - now you can. This is how it's still done in many Michigan shops that "choose" to do this work as lots turn that type of work down :)

[@splash5974]

@@LakesideAutobody Yes, nowadays its hard to find a shop that does much patch work, if any at all. We do collision and most panels are replaced. And we dont even do rust repairs at all.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@splash5974 Generally you don't make a lot on rust repair either so it's a lose-lose situation. Nice talking too you Splash - thanks for watching and have a great week :)

[@splash5974]

@@LakesideAutobody You too my friend! Enjoy and stay safe!

[@charliekline3975]

How about you just go to the junk yard and purchase a different one

[@LakesideAutobody]

What if your boss says fix it? You don't get that choice if you work in a body shop.

[@buckcleveland9059]

Guess fitzee is just an overachiever

[@LakesideAutobody]

He's pretty good with fabricating - I've checked out a few of his vids.

[@billgroel4463]

Nice job thank you for sharing

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Bill - have a great weekend :)